[Preorder] TX1800v2 [Finished]

[shadowrealmwarez]

In case you missed it, you can now order plate/pcb/metal gaskets (very very limited) for TX1800 v2 directly from kin on the website.

I have also posted a new shipping option Air Parcel for small/light items. It is cheaper but much slower. It took around 6 business days to go from Korea to Vietnam last time I checked.

Regarding bags, kin said he would try to send me a bunch to stock up for customers and he will sell them separately as well but please beware that the shipping cost is pretty ridiculous.

Last but not least, Lunar New Year is coming up so expect delays in both handling time and shipping time for international orders. For US orders, I will still ship within 1-3 business days.

Will any more TX 1800v2's be posted for sale by chance?

To be honest, when will that happen is entirely up to Kin. He seems to be busy w other stuff *cough*tx60/65*cough* recently and LNY is coming up as well. However, 100% there will be an extra sale. He will not just leave them there collecting dust forever.

I look forward to seeing an email or GH post thanks for all your hardware you and Kin do.

[popkorn62]

In case you missed it, you can now order plate/pcb/metal gaskets (very very limited) for TX1800 v2 directly from kin on the website.

I have also posted a new shipping option Air Parcel for small/light items. It is cheaper but much slower. It took around 6 business days to go from Korea to Vietnam last time I checked.

Regarding bags, kin said he would try to send me a bunch to stock up for customers and he will sell them separately as well but please beware that the shipping cost is pretty ridiculous.

Last but not least, Lunar New Year is coming up so expect delays in both handling time and shipping time for international orders. For US orders, I will still ship within 1-3 business days.

Will any more TX 1800v2's be posted for sale by chance?

To be honest, when will that happen is entirely up to Kin. He seems to be busy w other stuff *cough*tx60/65*cough* recently and LNY is coming up as well. However, 100% there will be an extra sale. He will not just leave them there collecting dust forever.

I look forward to seeing an email or GH post thanks for all your hardware you and Kin do.

You are very welcome. However, it really is just Kin . Also, don't worry there will be an email coming out to alert buyers .

[popkorn62]

Hi guys,

Since a buyer unfortunately made a purchase of the 1800 plate on our website expecting it to fit into the G80 case, I want to make it clear that the TX1800 plate WILL NOT FIT into the G80 case. However, we DO SELL the plates that fit. It is exactly the same price as the TX1800 plate, you just need to specify it in the comment box at check out when you order the 1800 plate of your choice.

[wodan]

Me building a TX1800v2 for your viewing pleasure!

[popkorn62]

Me building a TX1800v2 for your viewing pleasure!

I wish I could type on nixies once. On a brass plate of TX1800 v2 no less :’(


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Please do not PM me about your order. Submit a ticket with your invoice number. Thank you.

[DillonHightower]

Finished up with mine , Could not be happier (other than rgb led having issues on bottom of board)

[popkorn62]

Finished up with mine , Could not be happier (other than rgb led having issues on bottom of board)

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I love it! Also is that JTK Toxic or the original one??


======••••======
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Please click LOG IN to register. Bottom page is for newsletter only.

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[iamtootallforthis]

Finished up with mine , Could not be happier (other than rgb led having issues on bottom of board)

Show Image

Show Image

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I love it! Also is that JTK Toxic or the original one??


======••••======
http://txkeyboards.com/

Please click LOG IN to register. Bottom page is for newsletter only.

Please do not PM me about your order. Submit a ticket with your invoice number. Thank you.

JTK

[unmuscular_michael]

Ok, so a few questions if anyone has answers.

1. What are the dimensions of the screws that connect the two halves? I want to order some black oxide ones and my screw/nut measurement tool doesn't have sizes this small. Looking for M3/M4 with TPI and the length if possible.

2. Has anyone figured out a way to trigger shortcuts like Win+E, Win+R without having a Win key, aside from recording macros? I went with a WKL layout for the appearance, but I discovered that these shortcuts don't seem to work like I'd expect. I have Fn+Ctrl as the Windows key, but pressing Fn+Ctrl+E does not equate to Win+E, it just opens the start menu as if the E was never pressed. This isn't too big a deal since I mapped macros (Fn+E, for instance) for the shortcuts I use. Would like to see if anyone has solved this though.

[pixelpusher]

Ok, so a few questions if anyone has answers.

1. What are the dimensions of the screws that connect the two halves? I want to order some black oxide ones and my screw/nut measurement tool doesn't have sizes this small. Looking for M3/M4 with TPI and the length if possible.

2. Has anyone figured out a way to trigger shortcuts like Win+E, Win+R without having a Win key, aside from recording macros? I went with a WKL layout for the appearance, but I discovered that these shortcuts don't seem to work like I'd expect. I have Fn+Ctrl as the Windows key, but pressing Fn+Ctrl+E does not equate to Win+E, it just opens the start menu as if the E was never pressed. This isn't too big a deal since I mapped macros (Fn+E, for instance) for the shortcuts I use. Would like to see if anyone has solved this though.

I use right alt as a Windows key on my wkl boards.  Can’t do one handed win+E but I needed it for win+arrow for window management.   Couldn’t give that one up

[duynguyenle]

Ok, so a few questions if anyone has answers.

1. What are the dimensions of the screws that connect the two halves? I want to order some black oxide ones and my screw/nut measurement tool doesn't have sizes this small. Looking for M3/M4 with TPI and the length if possible.

2. Has anyone figured out a way to trigger shortcuts like Win+E, Win+R without having a Win key, aside from recording macros? I went with a WKL layout for the appearance, but I discovered that these shortcuts don't seem to work like I'd expect. I have Fn+Ctrl as the Windows key, but pressing Fn+Ctrl+E does not equate to Win+E, it just opens the start menu as if the E was never pressed. This isn't too big a deal since I mapped macros (Fn+E, for instance) for the shortcuts I use. Would like to see if anyone has solved this though.

I routinely use WKL layouts and usually have Winkey mapped to capslock

[Puddsy]

Ok, so a few questions if anyone has answers.

1. What are the dimensions of the screws that connect the two halves? I want to order some black oxide ones and my screw/nut measurement tool doesn't have sizes this small. Looking for M3/M4 with TPI and the length if possible.

my bet is M3

2. Has anyone figured out a way to trigger shortcuts like Win+E, Win+R without having a Win key, aside from recording macros? I went with a WKL layout for the appearance, but I discovered that these shortcuts don't seem to work like I'd expect. I have Fn+Ctrl as the Windows key, but pressing Fn+Ctrl+E does not equate to Win+E, it just opens the start menu as if the E was never pressed. This isn't too big a deal since I mapped macros (Fn+E, for instance) for the shortcuts I use. Would like to see if anyone has solved this though.

just map winkey somewhere else (i map mine to right alt or pause)

[unmuscular_michael]

I use right alt as a Windows key on my wkl boards.  Can’t do one handed win+E but I needed it for win+arrow for window management.   Couldn’t give that one up

I was using this for a while but I didn't like it there either. I actually do use the right alt key. Right now I have Fn on CapsLock and have put Macros on those keys to retain the functionality.

I routinely use WKL layouts and usually have Winkey mapped to capslock

I was going to do this, but I fat-finger that key a LOT while gaming. I have Fn there now.

[unmuscular_michael]

just map winkey somewhere else (i map mine to right alt or pause)

I have a solution that works now, but would prefer to not have to use macros for it. I'd like to get it working the right way without using another key like that.

[Puddsy]

just map winkey somewhere else (i map mine to right alt or pause)

I have a solution that works now, but would prefer to not have to use macros for it. I'd like to get it working the right way without using another key like that.

you can do it in the keymapping software, jigon, it's pretty easy, i can make you a video if you'd like

[unmuscular_michael]

you can do it in the keymapping software, jigon, it's pretty easy, i can make you a video if you'd like

I have used Jigon, but using Fn+Ctrl as LGui and then pressing E or R or any other combo doesn't work the right way for me. I'd be interested to see how you got it working.

[Puddsy]

you can do it in the keymapping software, jigon, it's pretty easy, i can make you a video if you'd like

I have used Jigon, but using Fn+Ctrl as LGui and then pressing E or R or any other combo doesn't work the right way for me. I'd be interested to see how you got it working.

it's kinda weird, you have to do it backwards

so for win+l, you have to hit L, then FN, then winkey

that's how i got it working for bootmapper, i might fiddle with jigon later to see if it's the same

[packman86]

Did all of the extras sell out already?

[unmuscular_michael]

it's kinda weird, you have to do it backwards

so for win+l, you have to hit L, then FN, then winkey

that's how i got it working for bootmapper, i might fiddle with jigon later to see if it's the same

Didn't work for me with Jigon. I actually can't recall what exactly I did with Bootmapper client on one of my previous builds, but I don't think I had this issue with it. Thanks for the tip, in any case.

[Puddsy]

it's kinda weird, you have to do it backwards

so for win+l, you have to hit L, then FN, then winkey

that's how i got it working for bootmapper, i might fiddle with jigon later to see if it's the same

Didn't work for me with Jigon. I actually can't recall what exactly I did with Bootmapper client on one of my previous builds, but I don't think I had this issue with it. Thanks for the tip, in any case.

i think i have some spare time to **** around with it this weekend, i'll let you know

[unmuscular_michael]

i think i have some spare time to **** around with it this weekend, i'll let you know

It's no big deal, but if you did find a way I'd be interested. FYI, you were right about them being M3 screws and I found some replacements. Thanks for your help.

[Puddsy]

i think i have some spare time to **** around with it this weekend, i'll let you know

It's no big deal, but if you did find a way I'd be interested. FYI, you were right about them being M3 screws and I found some replacements. Thanks for your help.

no worries

[Uleoja]

Kin,

If you could be so kind would you be able to supply us with a parts list for the all the different screws used the in the TX1800?  I am looking for length, width and thread type.  I would like to order some (gold) as replacements/spare.

Thanks!         

[unmuscular_michael]

Kin,

If you could be so kind would you be able to supply us with a parts list for the all the different screws used the in the TX1800?  I am looking for length, width and thread type.  I would like to order some (gold) as replacements/spare.

Thanks!       

I just did the same, so I can help a bit. The 10 screws that hold the bottom on are M3 x 0.5mm thread, 10mm long. The 6 screws that hold the plate on are M3 x 0.5mm, 6mm long. I ordered McMaster-Carr part numbers 91294A130 and 91294A126 (Both Black Oxide alloy steel). McMaster also lists a "Fine Thread" version, but you don't want those.

I don't know what the ones that hold the plate on are, unfortunately. Judging by your request I'd think you're not worried about the aesthetics of internal screws though.

[Uleoja]

Kin,

If you could be so kind would you be able to supply us with a parts list for the all the different screws used the in the TX1800?  I am looking for length, width and thread type.  I would like to order some (gold) as replacements/spare.

Thanks!       

I just did the same, so I can help a bit. The 10 screws that hold the bottom on are M3 x 0.5mm thread, 10mm long. The 6 screws that hold the plate on are M3 x 0.5mm, 6mm long. I ordered McMaster-Carr part numbers 91294A130 and 91294A126 (Both Black Oxide alloy steel). McMaster also lists a "Fine Thread" version, but you don't want those.

I don't know what the ones that hold the plate on are, unfortunately. Judging by your request I'd think you're not worried about the aesthetics of internal screws though.

Thank you sir!  If I find the plate screws I'll pm you.  Did you get the screws yet?  How's the quality from McMaster?  Are they magnetic?  Thank you very much again.

[unmuscular_michael]

Thank you sir!  If I find the plate screws I'll pm you.  Did you get the screws yet?  How's the quality from McMaster?  Are they magnetic?  Thank you very much again.

I got them yesterday actually. I haven't had an issue with McMaster at all, but these are small-ish screws and I have heavy hands, so I got the black oxide for the higher tensile strength, though I don't suspect it'd be an issue really. These ones are magnetic, but it depends on material of course.

[DillonHightower]

Anyone have any idea what rgb smd are being used on this PCB?  I am going to try and replace a few before I give in and just get a new PCB. But nit sure which ones I should be looking at.

[TerryMathews]

Anyone have any idea what rgb smd are being used on this PCB?  I am going to try and replace a few before I give in and just get a new PCB. But nit sure which ones I should be looking at.

Anyone have any idea what rgb smd are being used on this PCB?  I am going to try and replace a few before I give in and just get a new PCB. But nit sure which ones I should be looking at.

Ws2812B

[DillonHightower]

Anyone have any idea what rgb smd are being used on this PCB?  I am going to try and replace a few before I give in and just get a new PCB. But nit sure which ones I should be looking at.

Ws2812B



So it’s pretty much a basic 5050 huh?

[smittysteve]

Anyone have any idea what rgb smd are being used on this PCB?  I am going to try and replace a few before I give in and just get a new PCB. But nit sure which ones I should be looking at.

Ws2812B



So it’s pretty much a basic 5050 huh?

I ordered these.

http://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=915

[DillonHightower]

Anyone have any idea what rgb smd are being used on this PCB?  I am going to try and replace a few before I give in and just get a new PCB. But nit sure which ones I should be looking at.

Ws2812B



So it’s pretty much a basic 5050 huh?

I ordered these.

http://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=915

Did you have issues with some going out ?  And did putting new ones on work out ? I’m wondering if resistors are having issues as well

[smittysteve]

Anyone have any idea what rgb smd are being used on this PCB?  I am going to try and replace a few before I give in and just get a new PCB. But nit sure which ones I should be looking at.

Ws2812B



So it’s pretty much a basic 5050 huh?

I ordered these.

http://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=915

Did you have issues with some going out ?  And did putting new ones on work out ? I’m wondering if resistors are having issues as well

Very much yes- many LED issues on Duck PCBs. Haven’t had trouble with Leeku PCBs in my TX boards... but those lights are pretty fragile. Unlikely a resistor, I’d say... they are usually robust, but of course anything is possible.

What’s happened in yours? In my Duck boards, one would fail and then all downstream from that were out. Feel free to PM me as well if you’d like.

[DillonHightower]

Anyone have any idea what rgb smd are being used on this PCB?  I am going to try and replace a few before I give in and just get a new PCB. But nit sure which ones I should be looking at.

Ws2812B



So it’s pretty much a basic 5050 huh?

I ordered these.

http://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=915

Did you have issues with some going out ?  And did putting new ones on work out ? I’m wondering if resistors are having issues as well

Very much yes- many LED issues on Duck PCBs. Haven’t had trouble with Leeku PCBs in my TX boards... but those lights are pretty fragile. Unlikely a resistor, I’d say... they are usually robust, but of course anything is possible.

What’s happened in yours? In my Duck boards, one would fail and then all downstream from that were out. Feel free to PM me as well if you’d like.

you are awesome man, pm

[DillonHightower]

Anyone have any idea what rgb smd are being used on this PCB?  I am going to try and replace a few before I give in and just get a new PCB. But nit sure which ones I should be looking at.

Ws2812B



So it’s pretty much a basic 5050 huh?

I ordered these.

http://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=915

Did you have issues with some going out ?  And did putting new ones on work out ? I’m wondering if resistors are having issues as well

Very much yes- many LED issues on Duck PCBs. Haven’t had trouble with Leeku PCBs in my TX boards... but those lights are pretty fragile. Unlikely a resistor, I’d say... they are usually robust, but of course anything is possible.

What’s happened in yours? In my Duck boards, one would fail and then all downstream from that were out. Feel free to PM me as well if you’d like.

I messaged you . What is throwing me off about the ones you linked , is that they have 3 solder points, where the ones on my pcb only have 2 solder points on each side . Is that going to make a difference ?

[DillonHightower]

They look like thees

https://www.adafruit.com/product/1655

[unmuscular_michael]

They look like thees

https://www.adafruit.com/product/1655

Those are correct. I had one out on my board and replaced it with this. The datasheet refers to it as an SK6812.

[TerryMathews]

1) NeoPixel 5050 is WS2812B. They are one in the same, it's common for Adafruit to assign their own names to common things available in the market.
2) The 5050 nee WS2812B has 4 solder points. 2 would be a single-color dumb LED and 3 would be a bi-color dumb LED. You need 4 minimum, for either a dumb or smart RGB LED.
3) These have so many issues because they are damaged by the temps that boards are commonly wave soldered at. I've never had one die that was on a strip, or one that I hand soldered from new.

I'm not trying to point fingers, and I'm not going to name names, but there are a few people here who are infamous for RGB LED issues. In my humble opinion, they bake their boards too hot.

[dead_pixel_design]

they bake their boards too hot.

Do you just mean too much heat when soldering switches? Would that cause LED issues/other issues?

I have never had any issues with a board (knock on wood), and for the most part think I practice pretty decent soldering technique, but I am always concerned that I am going to put too much heat into a PCB while I am soldering and damage something.

[TerryMathews]

they bake their boards too hot.

Do you just mean too much heat when soldering switches? Would that cause LED issues/other issues?

I have never had any issues with a board (knock on wood), and for the most part think I practice pretty decent soldering technique, but I am always concerned that I am going to put too much heat into a PCB while I am soldering and damage something.

No, wave soldering is what they do in an assembly house when they do the whole board at once, especially SMD components. They place the components with solder paste then bake the board to melt the solder and form the joint.

WS2812Bs need a lower temp than most other components. You're unlikely to damage them hand soldering if you're using a good temp controlled iron.

[dead_pixel_design]

No, wave soldering is what they do in an assembly house when they do the whole board at once, especially SMD components. They place the components with solder paste then bake the board to melt the solder and form the joint.

WS2812Bs need a lower temp than most other components. You're unlikely to damage them hand soldering if you're using a good temp controlled iron.

Ah, that makes sense, thanks!

[Miotch92]

Any idea when the extra b stocks go up on the site? Really looking to get one.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

[Artist]

Any idea when the extra b stocks go up on the site? Really looking to get one.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

I'm having the same question. I'd really like to get a hand on one !!

[unmuscular_michael]

I'm not trying to point fingers, and I'm not going to name names, but there are a few people here who are infamous for RGB LED issues. In my humble opinion, they bake their boards too hot.

So I don't know if the LED on my board was bad before I put it in the case TBH. I wasn't running the acrylic gasket until recently and realized that I had one LED in the corner that wasn't shining blue - could have been a bad one before they even received it at assembly, and could have been bad after the assembly, or it could have shorted in my case. They're cheap enough that I don't really mind one being bad, and one good thing is that I now have 9 more spares.

[DillonHightower]

I'm not trying to point fingers, and I'm not going to name names, but there are a few people here who are infamous for RGB LED issues. In my humble opinion, they bake their boards too hot.

So I don't know if the LED on my board was bad before I put it in the case TBH. I wasn't running the acrylic gasket until recently and realized that I had one LED in the corner that wasn't shining blue - could have been a bad one before they even received it at assembly, and could have been bad after the assembly, or it could have shorted in my case. They're cheap enough that I don't really mind one being bad, and one good thing is that I now have 9 more spares.

Acrylic diffuser is actually thinner than the metal and switches can Easley bottom out if pressed hard enough causing a shortage and LED to burn out. I recommend clipping all extra legs to flush

[packman86]

Any idea when the extra b stocks go up on the site? Really looking to get one.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

I'm having the same question. I'd really like to get a hand on one !!

Send Kin a Telegram message. He is usually very quick to respond.

[unmuscular_michael]

Acrylic diffuser is actually thinner than the metal and switches can Easley bottom out if pressed hard enough causing a shortage and LED to burn out. I recommend clipping all extra legs to flush

I have a dynamat clone in the bottom of mine covered in Kapton, but there was a small portion that was not covered. I don't think it'd be possible to short the downward-facing 5050 LED in this case though.

[Uleoja]

A few shots from my Silver 1800 r2 build.  Does anybody know how many silvers had been produced in r2?  Any questions please let me know.

GMK 9009
Lubed Zeal Screw Stabs
Zealio 78g

[popkorn62]

A few shots from my Silver 1800 r2 build.  Does anybody know how many silvers had been produced in r2?  Any questions please let me know.

GMK 9009
Lubed Zeal Screw Stabs
Zealio 78g

I don't know how many got produced but I only saw the total of 4 orders for silver on both rounds + only 1 extra B-stock
People mostly ordered Black/Titan Grey.

[roostrc0gburn]

here's mine. the finish is a pristine, satin-like finish. built it with kailh box switches; black linear alphas, burnt orange tactile mods, and navy clicky lock and esc keys

[popkorn62]

Show Image

here's mine. the finish is a pristine, satin-like finish. built it with kailh box switches; black linear alphas, burnt orange tactile mods, and navy clicky lock and esc keys

I love it! SA seems to add too much "weight" on the board and makes it look too fat. I think GMK is just perfect for TX1800  :thumb:

I wish I ordered a Silver too