[SOLD] NIB NMB RT8255CW $95 + Shipping

[JP]

Nice NIB NMB RT8255CW+ keyboard with nice clicky space invader switches.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mechanical-AT-Keyboard-RT8255CW-Clicky-Keyboard-NIB/192398817445?hash=item2ccbdcf8a5:g:bvgAAOSwSeVaNALz

[pixelpusher]

Nice NIB NMB RT8255CW+ keyboard with nice clicky space invader switches.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mechanical-AT-Keyboard-RT8255CW-Clicky-Keyboard-NIB/192398817445?hash=item2ccbdcf8a5:g:bvgAAOSwSeVaNALz

(Attachment Link)

Hmm... I'm interested... I wish it was like $20 cheaper.  Big fan of clicky switches (BS, white alps, Monterrey blue, Matias click, cherry blue and green, Kailh bronze & pale blue), but I've never tried space invaders.  What are they like?

[fohat.digs]

Big fan of clicky switches

I've never tried space invaders.  What are they like?

They are really nice. In my opinion, they compare favorably with the others that you listed. Maybe a bit heavier, but exceptionally stable and wobble-free. Scarcity of true-ANSI layouts is the biggest drawback.

[pixelpusher]

You guys need to quit posting such nice stuff.  I can't resist that BAE.  I bought it 

[JP]

You guys need to quit posting such nice stuff.  I can't resist that BAE.  I bought it 

I'm glad I could help  I am a big fan of clicky switches as well and these are one of my favorites. I think it's about time for me to switch back to one of these.

[pixelpusher]

Got it today.  Great switches.  From reading all of the reviews on line I was ready for something loud and scratchy but it wasn't at all.  The switches have a very quick, soft click and are fairly quiet on bottom out.  The board is new, so it looks great.  Any advice for the space bar?  It's got an incredibly heavy switch in it.  Should I just try to get used to it or should I take it apart and switch it out with one of the springs from somewhere else on the keyboard?  Anyone with experience in the process? 

[fohat.digs]

The switches are fussy and fragile, and you should only take them apart with great care and trepidation.

First, while for all other key caps I use a wire puller and grab diagonal corners, that is dangerous here. You want to use a plastic ring-style puller and grab the cap by the sides - it is held on at the corners. To get at the spring, you will also have to take off the switch upper piece (sub-cap) - unless it came off with the key cap - and that is where it is possible that your spring will go flying.

The hard part is putting that piece back on - there is a wedge-like protrusion on the underside that needs to go between 2 sets of very thin "fingers" which are easily bent. With care it is not so terrifying as I described, but it takes a steady hand.

Look at the wiki and familiarize yourself with how it works before you start. Soldering and de-soldering these switches is also a nightmare because instead of pins they have mere wires, 4 of them, without strain relief!

[pixelpusher]

The switches are fussy and fragile, and you should only take them apart with great care and trepidation.

First, while for all other key caps I use a wire puller and grab diagonal corners, that is dangerous here. You want to use a plastic ring-style puller and grab the cap by the sides - it is held on at the corners. To get at the spring, you will also have to take off the switch upper piece (sub-cap) - unless it came off with the key cap - and that is where it is possible that your spring will go flying.

The hard part is putting that piece back on - there is a wedge-like protrusion on the underside that needs to go between 2 sets of very thin "fingers" which are easily bent. With care it is not so terrifying as I described, but it takes a steady hand.

Look at the wiki and familiarize yourself with how it works before you start. Soldering and de-soldering these switches is also a nightmare because instead of pins they have mere wires, 4 of them, without strain relief!

Thanks for the advice. I already figured out not to use a wire puller on the corners (as is my usual habit) b/c that's the first thing I did.  Of course it pulled the switch apart.  Luckily the spring didn't come out and I was able to just put it right back on.  I think I'll just try to get used to the heavy space bar for now.  I'd hate to mess up this beauty.  I just wish the space bar had the same weight springs.  I think I could type faster on these switches than any other switch I've tried, but Ikeeptypingeverything withoutaspace becausethespacebar issoheavy.

[fohat.digs]

b/c that's the first thing I did.  Of course it pulled the switch apart.

Luckily the spring didn't come out and I was able to just put it right back on.

Then you know the process, and what to expect. Putting it "right back on" without damaging the leaves was a learning tool.

If you had pulled the space bar right then, with the other switch apart, you would have been halfway there already.

[JP]

Thanks for the advice. I already figured out not to use a wire puller on the corners (as is my usual habit) b/c that's the first thing I did.  Of course it pulled the switch apart.  Luckily the spring didn't come out and I was able to just put it right back on.  I think I'll just try to get used to the heavy space bar for now.  I'd hate to mess up this beauty.  I just wish the space bar had the same weight springs.  I think I could type faster on these switches than any other switch I've tried, but Ikeeptypingeverything withoutaspace becausethespacebar issoheavy.

To push you deeper into the rabbit hole you just need the split spacebar variant 

The NMB RT8255cw+

[pixelpusher]

Noooooooo.  I regret everything. I needs it. Is the space bar normally weighted on that one? I’ll just pretend I never saw that last post. 

[pixelpusher]

Well, I couldn't keep myself from tinkering, and I ended up getting the spring switched out.  Looks like there are two release points at the top (on the top left and right) and one on the bottom (in the center).  I just swapped out the longer/heavier space bar spring with the spring on the pause switch.  Much more natural to type on now.  I sure do wish I had that fancy split space bar one though. 

The next step will be getting the orange sticker off.  I'm going to heat it up with a hairdryer to just make sure it doesn't make a mess.

EDIT-
Orange sticker off with no mess.  This is a fun keyboard.  The switches are remarkably similar to the new Kailh clickbar switches (bronze and box white).  The biggest difference in the two is that the click on the hi-tek switches is a bit softer and there is hardly any bottoming out noise.  So, overall, the hi-tek switches are quieter.  The hi-tek switches are also have less wobble and benefit from some terrific thick PBT keycaps.  It's almost like having a very clicky topre switch.

Thanks again for the recommendation.  Love these old boards.  And more great news is that unlike my AT101W, I can actually play overwatch on this keyboard.  The AT101W doesn't allow you to press "E" at the same time as "W, A, S, or D"  which is a dealbreaker for that game.  The NMB board has no issues with gaming that I've found so far... other than it's huge and I have to play with my mouse out of comfortable range.

[JP]

@reececonrad Nice work with the space bar spring mod. I would be afraid to attempt that myself. Looks like these are all gone now. I was half tempted to get a NIB one 

I would say the split spacebar version does feel lighter but the full size space bar isn't bad in my opinion. Also the split space bar aka erase eaze boards are uncommon. I seen 3 for sale last year.

[fohat.digs]

Also the split space bar aka erase eaze boards are uncommon.

My father-in-law used to have a split space bar. If you consistently use your right thumb, it's OK, but when you use your left thumb you are going to get a backspace unless you do a re-map to defeat it.

[JP]

My father-in-law used to have a split space bar. If you consistently use your right thumb, it's OK, but when you use your left thumb you are going to get a backspace unless you do a re-map to defeat it.

There are three modes with these depending on how you type.