So the first time I hand soldered cherry switches, I did the 'bent diode' method, where you put a moderate oblique bend in the diode lead and rest it against the switch contact while you solder it. I found this method to be very unreliable. I had several solder joints which seemed fine but days later would separate from the switch contact.
I addressed this two ways:
I apply flux, using a syringe style applicator as in the photos, over each of the switch contacts prior to soldering. Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/qJ40oWD.jpg)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/cQvJLqC.jpg)
Show Image
(http://imgur.com/5y2zC4S.jpg)
I bend the diode lead (NOT the black band lead, the other one!) into a rough circle (it ends up being a P shape due to the shape of my needle nose pliers). Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/HEbLQD1.jpg)
This results in the solder being trapped in the bowl of the P, completely surrounding the fluxed switch contact. Show Image
(http://imgur.com/cwbgBgN.jpg)
Show Image
(http://imgur.com/OY1gF5Q.jpg)
I've had 100% success with my switch solder joints this way.
Also, I use bus wire and small diameter heat shrink tube to make my column connectors. I know some people try to peel off the insulator from regular wire, but that's crazy. Just connect up the columns with bus wire and use heat shrink tube for insulation in between. Very easy.