You'll see what I mean when I start posting my crazy design ideas. :D
You'll see what I mean when I start posting my crazy design ideas. :D
inb4 10x spacebar layout
post the source files! post the source files! :P
PS: does the KB feel different without a PCB?
the c64 is for Retro set, tell the truth :P
Here ya go...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kzagjlx.png)
post the source files! post the source files! :P
PS: does the KB feel different without a PCB?
Source files posted. :D
Slotted plates are only practical if you are using a properly drilled PCB and PCB mounted switches.
I'm working on a "ergonomic" gaming keypad atm, mainly for FPS (as RTS/MMO need sooo many buttons the "ergo" part becomes impossible). The idea is to place all the commonly used buttons so that they are comfortably to reach without stretching the fingers too far, forcing em into a awkward angle, or moving the hand around too much. Below is my first attempt for the layout, feel free to try it (print out) and see how good you can reach the center of the buttons (Note: For now the buttons are simply straight, but I will probably tilt/turn the keys later to match the angle of the fingers) and make suggestions for improvement etc...Show Image(http://soulhunters-crappy-website.com/misc/GamePad_Test_v1.png)
Crossposting: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40812.msg812308#msg812308I'm working on a "ergonomic" gaming keypad atm, mainly for FPS (as RTS/MMO need sooo many buttons the "ergo" part becomes impossible). The idea is to place all the commonly used buttons so that they are comfortably to reach without stretching the fingers too far, forcing em into a awkward angle, or moving the hand around too much. Below is my first attempt for the layout, feel free to try it (print out) and see how good you can reach the center of the buttons (Note: For now the buttons are simply straight, but I will probably tilt/turn the keys later to match the angle of the fingers) and make suggestions for improvement etc...Show Image(http://soulhunters-crappy-website.com/misc/GamePad_Test_v1.png)
Someone willing to do a plate for this? ^^;
How about this? 45% board :D (Attachment Link)
@jdcarpe
Dude, u r so awesome!
I'm dying of hand pain and I need a ThumbShift keyboard like this:
This msg is about the simple version.
1. Exactly like a WASD or Filco or Rosewill except I need a short spacebar and 2 new 2x keys on each side of the spacebar. These 2 new keys shall operate as thumbshift keys. These keys would be aligned with the alt and spacebar.
+ Would fit into a cheap Rosewill case.
- Thumbshift keys might be better if they were placed at an angle. But I simply don't know what the best angle is.
2. Exactly as above but with the missing F13-F24 keys above F1-F12.
3. As #1 but with angled thumbshift keys.
4. As #2 but with angled thumbshift keys.
For the angled shift key version, what would be the perfect length for the shift keys? And why?
All I can say is that I can't handle pressing the thumbshift key directly next to ALT. Using a 2x horizontal thumbshift key I can just barely use that by pressing on the far inner edge of the key, I think. This is why I need to build a prototype.
How much will someone charge me to make a one-off plate? 2-off?
What are the ramifications of using lubed switches on a keyboard that has no case?
I welcome any input on where/how the thumbshift keys should be placed?
If I build 2 at once does that shift the economics back in favor of the PCB method? Or ?
I really love your bent-piece-of-steel idea as it just saved me massive amounts of stress and pain from worrying about how to do the case. I just won't have a case.
A one-off plate in that size will probably be in the neighborhood or $30. To give you an idea of how much a one-off PCB would be, for the size of a 104-key keyboard PCB, you're easily looking at more than $200 for each in small quantities.
Now you've got me wondering if it could be cheaper to stitch together a couple of different smaller PCBs with headers... the plate or case would hold everything together... sorry not trying to derail the thread with PCB talk :D
Yes, 1 2.0 unit thumbshift key on each side of spacebar for 2 thumbshift keys total.@jdcarpe
Dude, u r so awesome!
I'm dying of hand pain and I need a ThumbShift keyboard like this:
This msg is about the simple version.
1. Exactly like a WASD or Filco or Rosewill except I need a short spacebar and 2 new 2x keys on each side of the spacebar. These 2 new keys shall operate as thumbshift keys. These keys would be aligned with the alt and spacebar.
+ Would fit into a cheap Rosewill case.
- Thumbshift keys might be better if they were placed at an angle. But I simply don't know what the best angle is.
2. Exactly as above but with the missing F13-F24 keys above F1-F12.
3. As #1 but with angled thumbshift keys.
4. As #2 but with angled thumbshift keys.
For the angled shift key version, what would be the perfect length for the shift keys? And why?
All I can say is that I can't handle pressing the thumbshift key directly next to ALT. Using a 2x horizontal thumbshift key I can just barely use that by pressing on the far inner edge of the key, I think. This is why I need to build a prototype.
How much will someone charge me to make a one-off plate? 2-off?
What are the ramifications of using lubed switches on a keyboard that has no case?
I welcome any input on where/how the thumbshift keys should be placed?
If I build 2 at once does that shift the economics back in favor of the PCB method? Or ?
I really love your bent-piece-of-steel idea as it just saved me massive amounts of stress and pain from worrying about how to do the case. I just won't have a case.
Do I understand correctly that for #1 you want a standard ANSI 104-style layout, but with 2x 2.00-unit thumb shift keys on either side of a 2.25-unit spacebar?
What keys would you want where the shifts are now?Regular shift keys :)
For #3 & #4, would you want the thumb shift keys at a 45-degree angle?Sure :) I'll build it like that. If it sux then I throw it away and build a different one.
A one-off plate in that size will probably be in the neighborhood or $30. To give you an idea of how much a one-off PCB would be, for the size of a 104-key keyboard PCB, you're easily looking at more than $200 for each in small quantities.So I am guessing a 2-off = $60.00 for steel and $210.00 for PCB?
AWESOME! :cool: You didn't cheap out on the design! You have 5 extra holes for keyswitches above the cursor keys and underneath the Delete/End/PageDown keys! You have achieved what no keyboard company on Earth seems able to do! :eek:
@TotalChaos How does this work for you?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DqCu8Uc.png)
AWESOME! :cool: You didn't cheap out on the design! You have 5 extra holes for keyswitches above the cursor keys and underneath the Delete/End/PageDown keys! You have achieved what no keyboard company on Earth seems able to do! :eek:
Thanks! That means I can add 5 extra keys if I want! I will probably use at least 3 of those keyslots!
Need a .dxf file or whatever filetype a steelcutter would want.
@TotalChaosYou are ridiculously awesome! .dwg files! :DancingBanana:
You have 8 plates in my GitHub at github.com/jdcarpe/TotalChaos (http://github.com/jdcarpe/TotalChaos)
:D
@TotalChaosYou are ridiculously awesome! .dwg files! :DancingBanana:
You have 8 plates in my GitHub at github.com/jdcarpe/TotalChaos (http://github.com/jdcarpe/TotalChaos)
:D
I am thinking I can use a numpad 0 key (2.00 units of space) for my 2 different thumbshift keys and a LeftShift key (2.25 units of space) as my spacebar.
Since I am going to put padding on top of the keys anyway that should prevent any "sharp edge problems" for my thumb.
Also since you gave me FREE 5 extra slots for keys over the cursor keys I can hopefully safely ignore the Fn-Key versions and ppl can just install an Fn under the Delete key if they want an Fn key. Right now I am thinking that makes more sense. I don't think there is anything "wrong" with using a shorter right shift key its just that its easier to buy keycaps when u use as many "standard" sized keys as possible.
This is really blowing my mind. So many keyboard companies have told me how hard or impossible it is to add keys to a keyboard and how important it is for them to chop important keys off. To suddenly experience the opposite is a really wild feeling!
I now have a question for you:
The way you have made your plate in your CAD software, does it require a person to desolder switches in order to lube them?
Or is it like those special plates that allow opening and lubing the switches while they are soldered to the plate?
I don't understand what the actual difference between the 2 types of plates is. I don't understand what the different advantages and disadvantages is. I just know that it sounds more user friendly to put switches on plates that allow to open the switch and lube or change the spring without having to go thru the horrendous hassle of desoldering everything and resoldering everything.
What are your views on easymod plates vs. hostilemod plates?
Out of curiosity how loose would a switch be if it weren't soldered to a pcb but just mounted in a plate?
This is, bytheway, the most awesome topic ever. JDcarpe: what program are you using? Kicad? I'm seriously considering making a sweet layout one-off to use at work I'm thinking 40% (ish) with a tenkey to the side, and some macros, but I want to learn how to make the dwg files myself.
Also, can anyone recommend a steelcutter? I'd also want someone to bend the sides down to make a sort-of case.
@JDCarpe
What is the story with the bending of the steel?
Are there instructions in the .dwg file for the SteelCutter like "Fold on the dotted line" or somesuch?
Is it easy for steelcutters to bend steel in a precise manner?
Thanx!
@dorkvader, here is the link to the "40XL" drawing file: https://github.com/jdcarpe/Plates/blob/master/New/40XL.dwg (https://github.com/jdcarpe/Plates/blob/master/New/40XL.dwg)Oh God I need this, but with a num row.
Maybe you can modify that to suit your design idea.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DtdkcrZ.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BD656JI.png)
I'm after thisShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ji4zrvV.png)
and thisShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/dBMR49h.png)
:)
Oh God I need this, but with a num row.
1) I have other ideas for those keys.Oh God I need this, but with a num row.
Why do you need a num row when you have a num pad? :D
1) I have other ideas for those keys.Oh God I need this, but with a num row.
Why do you need a num row when you have a num pad? :D
2) Starcraft would be hell.
3) !@#$%^&*()
:D
Do you know what the dimensions are for the stabilizers on the 5-unit spacebar?
Standard 2U backspace, and number row extended. More macro keys!1) I have other ideas for those keys.Oh God I need this, but with a num row.
Why do you need a num row when you have a num pad? :D
2) Starcraft would be hell.
3) !@#$%^&*()
:D
Would you want a 2-unit backspace, or split backspace? Number row extend over the number pad?
Standard 2U backspace, and number row extended. More macro keys!
Do you know what the dimensions are for the stabilizers on the 5-unit spacebar?
Crossposting: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40812.msg812308#msg812308I'm working on a "ergonomic" gaming keypad atm, mainly for FPS (as RTS/MMO need sooo many buttons the "ergo" part becomes impossible). The idea is to place all the commonly used buttons so that they are comfortably to reach without stretching the fingers too far, forcing em into a awkward angle, or moving the hand around too much. Below is my first attempt for the layout, feel free to try it (print out) and see how good you can reach the center of the buttons (Note: For now the buttons are simply straight, but I will probably tilt/turn the keys later to match the angle of the fingers) and make suggestions for improvement etc...Show Image(http://soulhunters-crappy-website.com/misc/GamePad_Test_v1.png)
Someone willing to do a plate for this? ^^;
Beyond my plate skillz. :P
I'm after thisShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ji4zrvV.png)
and thisShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/dBMR49h.png)
:)
Crossposting: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40812.msg812308#msg812308I'm working on a "ergonomic" gaming keypad atm, mainly for FPS (as RTS/MMO need sooo many buttons the "ergo" part becomes impossible). The idea is to place all the commonly used buttons so that they are comfortably to reach without stretching the fingers too far, forcing em into a awkward angle, or moving the hand around too much. Below is my first attempt for the layout, feel free to try it (print out) and see how good you can reach the center of the buttons (Note: For now the buttons are simply straight, but I will probably tilt/turn the keys later to match the angle of the fingers) and make suggestions for improvement etc...Show Image(http://soulhunters-crappy-website.com/misc/GamePad_Test_v1.png)
Someone willing to do a plate for this? ^^;
Beyond my plate skillz. :P
Thought so...
Probably gonna use Epoxy for the prototype then.
Crossposting: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40812.msg812308#msg812308I'm working on a "ergonomic" gaming keypad atm, mainly for FPS (as RTS/MMO need sooo many buttons the "ergo" part becomes impossible). The idea is to place all the commonly used buttons so that they are comfortably to reach without stretching the fingers too far, forcing em into a awkward angle, or moving the hand around too much. Below is my first attempt for the layout, feel free to try it (print out) and see how good you can reach the center of the buttons (Note: For now the buttons are simply straight, but I will probably tilt/turn the keys later to match the angle of the fingers) and make suggestions for improvement etc...Show Image(http://soulhunters-crappy-website.com/misc/GamePad_Test_v1.png)
Someone willing to do a plate for this? ^^;
Beyond my plate skillz. :P
Thought so...
Probably gonna use Epoxy for the prototype then.
Ok, did it on my own... :cool:
I present you the SH-GamePad-v2:
(Attachment Link)
thank you man! really appreciated! I'm gonna laser cut those right away :)
I recommend working with a cheaper material first and going to aluminum once you've got the kinks ironed out.
Ponoko.com is probably the cheapest for prototyping as they don't charge a set up fee for one offs.
After that, I've heard good things about bigbluesaw.com, but haven't yet worked with them.
I've got some quotes out there for some laser cutting shops that I'm waiting to hear back on but I thought I'd see if anyone here had any suggestions.
I've got some quotes out there for some laser cutting shops that I'm waiting to hear back on but I thought I'd see if anyone here had any suggestions.
I tried for weeks to get a local place to even respond for my RFQs. I had to call up and bug them to respond to me, and then they just quoted me their minimum order price, which was usually $300 to $600. This is how you lose business.
So, I asked a local shop which does lasercutting how much a SS plate of my layout would cost... 75 Euros!
So, I asked a local shop which does lasercutting how much a SS plate of my layout would cost... 75 Euros!
did the same with mine and they quoted €22! it's a very basic SS without any treatment though.
sure, no problem. I've never worked with them though. I'd like to see a sample first.
sure, no problem. I've never worked with them though. I'd like to see a sample first.
Awesome! Do you know what they need? Is a PNG with measurements enough?
sure, no problem. I've never worked with them though. I'd like to see a sample first.
Awesome! Do you know what they need? Is a PNG with measurements enough?
DWG or DXF
Yeah I haven't found anything that can edit those DWG's that's < $50
[)amien
Yeah I haven't found anything that can edit those DWG's that's < $50
[)amien
Free - Free - Free
DraftSight by Dassault Systèmes
Windows-only, but it runs fine in a 2GB single-core VB VM on my i7 Linux box. Registration-ware. Native DWG files.
- Ron | samwisekoiShow Image(http://www.samwisekoi.com/pixelart/M.png)
Free - Free - Free
DraftSight by Dassault Systèmes
Windows-only, but it runs fine in a 2GB single-core VB VM on my i7 Linux box. Registration-ware. Native DWG files.
I used lowploy's method for my prototype
http://pyrolistical.github.io/blog/2012/08/11/full-custom-keypoard/
I got the entire thing cnc but the concept is the same. I also used the butterfly switch holes but more simple and easier to cnc
My switches were very sturdy. I was very impressed how there was zero wobble
Here is a compact TKL I've been thinking about based on Ron/Matt's template.oh... i like this layout!!!
(Attachment Link)
The layout is almost perfect for me although I'm split between keeping insert/delete in the regular vertical arrangement and putting DEL next to backspace. It avoids a short right-shift but does require some 1x1 on the bottom row for the right modifiers.
Font is changed to Segoe Light, no idea if/how I'd get the caps made :D The volume up/down icons need to change.
[)amien
hmmmmI had a similar idea for a matrix layout upon seeing this thread. I'd been thinking of getting one or two of those Tipro 128-key POS boards, but it'd be a PITA to unsolder all those switches just to swap in tactile MX clears or browns, as I really do not care for the linear blacks they come with, and the used units available on US eBay are usually pretty grungy looking anyway.
what if we/i tried this with a matrix layout,
no two hands like the ergodox but like a minimized mechanical typematrix board http://www.typematrix.com/
ergonomic with the travel capabilities and 60% size of the GH60, GHERGO60.......
it would need some space between the hands though so it would be longer than the GH60 for sure but the same height
*brain starts going crazy, ahhhhhhhhhhhh*
I had a similar idea for a matrix layout upon seeing this thread. I'd been thinking of getting one or two of those Tipro 128-key POS boards, but it'd be a PITA to unsolder all those switches just to swap in tactile MX clears or browns, as I really do not care for the linear blacks they come with, and the used units available on US eBay are usually pretty grungy looking anyway.
Here's a 112-key version of the sort of layout I was thinking of, designed to minimize pinky stress and maximize the spread between hands in normal typing use, without deviating too radically from a familiar layout for alphanumeric and common punctuation key positions:
(Attachment Link)
Dude, congrats on making an amazing layout. Better than the typematrix layout IMHO.
definitely a nice layout :) Why not angle it out, even just a little, or make it hinged, a la the Goldtouch?
I had a similar idea for a matrix layout upon seeing this thread. I'd been thinking of getting one or two of those Tipro 128-key POS boards, but it'd be a PITA to unsolder all those switches just to swap in tactile MX clears or browns, as I really do not care for the linear blacks they come with, and the used units available on US eBay are usually pretty grungy looking anyway.
Here's a 112-key version of the sort of layout I was thinking of, designed to minimize pinky stress and maximize the spread between hands in normal typing use, without deviating too radically from a familiar layout for alphanumeric and common punctuation key positions:
(Attachment Link)
Here's a play on the matrix idea with a 10 deg rotation on the hands. Not really sure about some of the key placements - there are a lot of different options in this kind of layout. AFAIK, it's hard/impossible to get custom key caps for the larger keys in this layout.Show Image(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/TD22057/Computer/matrix_zps1fb32cf6.png~original)
TD, love the layout! Would you have trouble hitting the space instead of the back/enter keys like that?
Where do you all get your measurements from? I want to design my own plate but wouldn't know where to start with all the spacing :P
Where do you all get your measurements from? I want to design my own plate but wouldn't know where to start with all the spacing :P
Where do you all get your measurements from? I want to design my own plate but wouldn't know where to start with all the spacing :P
Here is the DWG file I've been using to prototype plate designs. It contains some of my ideas for layouts and individual keys with the overall key cap shape and the hole for the switch on different layers (so the key cap and text can be turned off to leave the hole). It's pretty easy to grab the various sizes of keys and arrange them how ever you want. Original shapes are from jdcarpe and the phantom files. I'm using the free DraftSight (http://www.3ds.com/products/draftsight/free-cad-software/)CAD software to work on everything.Thanks a lot! That should be i big help!
I haven't made a plate yet to try fitting switches in it so use at your own risk. I think everything is OK but I can't be 100% sure.
Are those splits 2.75x?Yeah it's 2.75x, if i changed that to a 7x i would only have a 1.00 and a 1.25 on each side of the spacebar. I think that would work :confused:
I was trying to prototype some designs using key caps laid out on a towel (the desk was too slippery) but it's hard to get a feel for what the keys will feel like. I was thinking that what I really need is a modular key switch. If I could mount a single switch in some kind of modular unit, then I could prototype switch placements and actually type on them to see what they feel like. Basically something like a Lego brick with a switch in it that could be connected to other switches to make a layout.
I don't have any free switches to try this with yet (my shipment of browns is showing up in a few weeks) but I might look into inserting switches into a small pieces of plastic or hard board with holes in them to hold the switch. If I can figure out an easy way to do this and hold the individual switches together, it would make trying out different keyboard layouts a lot easier before I get any plates made.
I was trying to prototype some designs using key caps laid out on a towel (the desk was too slippery) but it's hard to get a feel for what the keys will feel like. I was thinking that what I really need is a modular key switch. If I could mount a single switch in some kind of modular unit, then I could prototype switch placements and actually type on them to see what they feel like. Basically something like a Lego brick with a switch in it that could be connected to other switches to make a layout.A big piece of polystyrene would be good. No need to cut any holes and i'm sure its cheap to get.
I don't have any free switches to try this with yet (my shipment of browns is showing up in a few weeks) but I might look into inserting switches into a small pieces of plastic or hard board with holes in them to hold the switch. If I can figure out an easy way to do this and hold the individual switches together, it would make trying out different keyboard layouts a lot easier before I get any plates made.
A big piece of polystyrene would be good. No need to cut any holes and i'm sure its cheap to get.
Datasheet in Japanese (http://www.fa.omron.co.jp/data_pdf/closed/prdn-387.pdf) (found on the Deskthority wiki (http://deskthority.net/wiki/Omron_B3G-S_series).)
The diagram in the datasheet shows that pins 1 and 3 are connected.
Datasheet in Japanese (http://www.fa.omron.co.jp/data_pdf/closed/prdn-387.pdf) (found on the Deskthority wiki (http://deskthority.net/wiki/Omron_B3G-S_series).)
The diagram in the datasheet shows that pins 1 and 3 are connected.
thanks!
So which pin would the diode go on? 1-3 or 2 ?
cool. thanks for the easy answer.
here are my next steps in the omron alps gh60 project lol.
solder a diode two pin 1/3 and solder the other end to an ide cable.
solder pin 2 to the ide cable....
flash teensey firmware...
Here is where I have my next questions that will hopefully get me to the point of finishing this.
Will I end up with one wire from all the rows and one wire from all the columns?
which pins on the teensey do I attach these 2 wires?
Playing around with some spare keycaps and came up with this. Reminds me of like a 40% Model F.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VbCJLT2.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kW3ds7a.png)
1. When I wire a matrix I go for simplicity. Each column gets wired to a separate pin, and each row gets wired to a separate pin. EXAMPLE: if you have 10 rows and 10 columns you would need 20 pins.
2. That depends on your code, teensy pins can either be used to "Push" or "Pull". A good practice would be to wire your matrix consistently with either all the columns or rows pushing and the opposite pulling. EXAMPLE: your code would check to see what column was pulling current, then check which row is getting current pushed to it, thus getting your X and Y for the matrix.
ok so there are 23 pins on my teensey. not counting gnd ,5v, RST pins. just attach them to any of those pins?
ok so there are 23 pins on my teensey. not counting gnd ,5v, RST pins. just attach them to any of those pins?
So to make sure I am making sense let me make a super small example.
---------
| A | B |
---------
| C | D |
---------
Lets just say for argument sake that you want a 4 key keyboard as displayed above. This 4 key keyboard would require 4 total pins to work if you just wanted to use a straight matrix wiring (no muxes or anything)
In your case any of the other pins you mentioned would be fine places to attach the 2 Column and 2 Row pins (not that familiar with the teensy to know if you can re-purpose the three you mentioned). I am not sure what you plan on using for software for your teensy, but if you are planning to write your or modify someone else's code then wire it up however you want.
I want a 60% board containing nothing more than a 15x5 matrix of 1x keys.
I want a 60% board containing nothing more than a 15x5 matrix of 1x keys.
75 non-staggered keys?
No space bar?
75 non-staggered keys?
Yep. Same dimensions as a Pure, but nothing but matrix-aligned 1x keys.No space bar?
This was my Filco before I built my Ergodox: http://i.imgur.com/3qzpIZ1.jpg :)
Wow. I almost considered this when I got frustrated at issues with my spacebar stabilizers, but I didn't think someone would actually do this. Do you actually use it like that?
domoaligato@buildbot ~/Downloads/AVR-Keyboard-master $ make
Compiling C: avr_keyboard.c
avr-gcc -c -mmcu=atmega32u4 -I. -DF_CPU=16000000UL -D__INCLUDE_KEYBOARD=\"phantom/board.h\" -D__INCLUDE_LAYOUT=\"phantom/ansi_iso_win.h\" -D__BOOTLOADER_JUMP=\"jmp\ 0x7E00\" -O2 -ffunction-sections -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=avr_keyboard.lst -std=gnu99 -MMD -MP -MF .dep/avr_keyboard.o.d avr_keyboard.c -o avr_keyboard.o
Compiling C: usb_keyboard_debug.c
avr-gcc -c -mmcu=atmega32u4 -I. -DF_CPU=16000000UL -D__INCLUDE_KEYBOARD=\"phantom/board.h\" -D__INCLUDE_LAYOUT=\"phantom/ansi_iso_win.h\" -D__BOOTLOADER_JUMP=\"jmp\ 0x7E00\" -O2 -ffunction-sections -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=usb_keyboard_debug.lst -std=gnu99 -MMD -MP -MF .dep/usb_keyboard_debug.o.d usb_keyboard_debug.c -o usb_keyboard_debug.o
Compiling C: print.c
avr-gcc -c -mmcu=atmega32u4 -I. -DF_CPU=16000000UL -D__INCLUDE_KEYBOARD=\"phantom/board.h\" -D__INCLUDE_LAYOUT=\"phantom/ansi_iso_win.h\" -D__BOOTLOADER_JUMP=\"jmp\ 0x7E00\" -O2 -ffunction-sections -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=print.lst -std=gnu99 -MMD -MP -MF .dep/print.o.d print.c -o print.o
Compiling C: phantom/board.c
avr-gcc -c -mmcu=atmega32u4 -I. -DF_CPU=16000000UL -D__INCLUDE_KEYBOARD=\"phantom/board.h\" -D__INCLUDE_LAYOUT=\"phantom/ansi_iso_win.h\" -D__BOOTLOADER_JUMP=\"jmp\ 0x7E00\" -O2 -ffunction-sections -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=phantom/board.lst -std=gnu99 -MMD -MP -MF .dep/board.o.d phantom/board.c -o phantom/board.o
Compiling C: phantom/ansi_iso_win.c
avr-gcc -c -mmcu=atmega32u4 -I. -DF_CPU=16000000UL -D__INCLUDE_KEYBOARD=\"phantom/board.h\" -D__INCLUDE_LAYOUT=\"phantom/ansi_iso_win.h\" -D__BOOTLOADER_JUMP=\"jmp\ 0x7E00\" -O2 -ffunction-sections -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=phantom/ansi_iso_win.lst -std=gnu99 -MMD -MP -MF .dep/ansi_iso_win.o.d phantom/ansi_iso_win.c -o phantom/ansi_iso_win.o
Linking: avr_keyboard.elf
avr-gcc -mmcu=atmega32u4 -I. -DF_CPU=16000000UL -D__INCLUDE_KEYBOARD=\"phantom/board.h\" -D__INCLUDE_LAYOUT=\"phantom/ansi_iso_win.h\" -D__BOOTLOADER_JUMP=\"jmp\ 0x7E00\" -O2 -ffunction-sections -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=avr_keyboard.o -std=gnu99 -MMD -MP -MF .dep/avr_keyboard.elf.d avr_keyboard.o usb_keyboard_debug.o print.o phantom/board.o phantom/ansi_iso_win.o --output avr_keyboard.elf -Wl,-Map=avr_keyboard.map,--cref -Wl,--relax -Wl,--gc-sections -lm
Creating load file for Flash: avr_keyboard.hex
avr-objcopy -O ihex -R .eeprom -R .fuse -R .lock -R .signature avr_keyboard.elf avr_keyboard.hex
Creating load file for EEPROM: avr_keyboard.eep
avr-objcopy -j .eeprom --set-section-flags=.eeprom="alloc,load" \
--change-section-lma .eeprom=0 --no-change-warnings -O ihex avr_keyboard.elf avr_keyboard.eep || exit 0
find . -regextype posix-awk -regex \
"(.*\.cof|.*\.elf|.*\.map|.*\.sym|.*\.lss|.*\.o|.*\.lst|.*\.s|.*\.d|.*\.i)" \
-exec rm {} +
rm -rf .dep
domoaligato@buildbot ~/Downloads/AVR-Keyboard-master $
I chose 1.5 width keys for most things because that might let me use row 3 keys (tab row) for the whole keyboard except the bottom row. That row keycap profile is close to flat so I think it would be almost as good as a DSA style set. I'm going to see if WASD will let me do a whole keyboard worth of caps using row 3 (tab row) style keycaps instead of the usual mix which would let me do a custom set of labels for a reasonable amount of money.
Crossposting: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40812.msg812308#msg812308I'm working on a "ergonomic" gaming keypad atm, mainly for FPS (as RTS/MMO need sooo many buttons the "ergo" part becomes impossible). The idea is to place all the commonly used buttons so that they are comfortably to reach without stretching the fingers too far, forcing em into a awkward angle, or moving the hand around too much. Below is my first attempt for the layout, feel free to try it (print out) and see how good you can reach the center of the buttons (Note: For now the buttons are simply straight, but I will probably tilt/turn the keys later to match the angle of the fingers) and make suggestions for improvement etc...Show Image(http://soulhunters-crappy-website.com/misc/GamePad_Test_v1.png)
Someone willing to do a plate for this? ^^;
Beyond my plate skillz. :P
Thought so...
Probably gonna use Epoxy for the prototype then.
Ok, did it on my own... :cool:
I present you the SH-GamePad-v2:
(Attachment Link)
One step closer...
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Now now to mount the teensy inside a metal case?for permanent mounting only.
Now now to mount the teensy inside a metal case?for permanent mounting only.
http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Heavy-Duty-Mounting-Clear/dp/B00004Z4BU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371252582&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+scotch+mounting+tape+4010
Now now to mount the teensy inside a metal case?for permanent mounting only.
http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Heavy-Duty-Mounting-Clear/dp/B00004Z4BU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371252582&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+scotch+mounting+tape+4010
are you sure that that stuff is not conductive?
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but what software are you using to make plate designs?
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but what software are you using to make plate designs?
Got my first price quote today for laser cutting my plates from a local engineering firm and I'm a bit disappointed. I sent them my split hand w/ numpad design (3 separate pieces) and asked for 2 keyboards (6 total pieces) and it came back as roughly $70 per piece or $210 per keyboard for the plates. They're a pretty big firm so I'm hoping it just that my order is too small for them. I expanded my search radius and sent out 3 more price requests this afternoon. Hopefully someone can cut these at a decent price...
Holy moly!
Do you have DWG files? I should be able to get something cut a lot cheaper than that. International shipping might put a damper on the deal, but $210!!!!
Huge thanks to The_Beast! My plates are being cut at a reasonable cost and I found my second set of DSA retro keycaps w/ a numpad kit. So I've got all of the components either on the way or here to make two custom keyboards!
One question: My Cherry browns have a diode in them (they were harvested from a POS keyboard). My original plan was to use those but since I don't have a PCB, it seems like it might be extra work to bridge the switch->diode pins and then wire switches together rather than just connecting everything up w/ diode's in the first place. Any opinions on using the diodes in the switches vs ignoring them and adding external diodes?
When you guys are building new layouts and Ergo Dox variations what do you guys use for spacing between 1x keys and between outside keys and the adjacent 1x keys?
Melvang
( (19 × u1 − 14) + (19 × u2 − 14) ) ÷ 2( (19 × 1.5 − 14) + (19 × 1.25 − 14) ) ÷ 2 = 12.125mmI use 19mm distance between center of two 1u keys (not 19.05 as suggested)
So distance between sides is something like:Code: [Select]( (19 × u1 − 14) + (19 × u2 − 14) ) ÷ 2
Where u1 is the size in units for the first key and u2 of the second.
Eg: if I want to get the distance between a 1.5 and a 1.25 key I doCode: [Select]( (19 × 1.5 − 14) + (19 × 1.5 − 14) ) ÷ 2 = 12.125mm
This worked well for both the Steely and the the Brownfox, but they are two open frame keyboards (so I do not risk to hit the sides)
I use 19mm distance between center of two 1u keys (not 19.05 as suggested)
So distance between sides is something like:Code: [Select]( (19 × u1 − 14) + (19 × u2 − 14) ) ÷ 2
Where u1 is the size in units for the first key and u2 of the second.
Eg: if I want to get the distance between a 1.5 and a 1.25 key I doCode: [Select]( (19 × 1.5 − 14) + (19 × 1.5 − 14) ) ÷ 2 = 12.125mm
This worked well for both the Steely and the the Brownfox, but they are two open frame keyboards (so I do not risk to hit the sides)
I like this. Now how close to a straight line does this put the outside edge of the main area?
( (19 × u1 − 14) ) ÷ 2Also Matt3o it has been a few days since I have looked at these 2 projects and really like the look of them. But don't remember if either one had the navigation cluster/arrow keys. How would you space those out from the main body of keys?
I like this. Now how close to a straight line does this put the outside edge of the main area?
Not sure I understand what you mean, but the clearance between the keys and the case is:
Sorry I probably should have been a little more clear what i was asking. When using this formula was wondering about the alignment of the left side of the Ctrl, Shift, Caps Lock, Tab, and Tilde key and the right side of the Ctrl, Shift, Enter, \, and Backspace keys.
Edit: Adding another question for you Matt. With this spacing how much room does that put between keycaps? Preferably Cherry profile as I am in for the Toxic set for a GB for a really custom keyboard that I am building.
I use 19mm distance between center of two 1u keys (not 19.05 as suggested)
So distance between sides is something like:Code: [Select]( (19 × u1 − 14) + (19 × u2 − 14) ) ÷ 2
Where u1 is the size in units for the first key and u2 of the second.
Eg: if I want to get the distance between a 1.5 and a 1.25 key I doCode: [Select]( (19 × 1.5 − 14) + (19 × 1.5 − 14) ) ÷ 2 = 12.125mm
This worked well for both the Steely and the the Brownfox, but they are two open frame keyboards (so I do not risk to hit the sides)
EDIT: Have I screwed up the stabs for the spacebar? Aligned the bottom of the stab slots with the holes for the switches, not sure if that is right or not. Added CAD file if someone can take a look.
Just sent off for the final quote on my design! Just hoping the cost doesn't blow out too much, got quoted $29 for the plate and base only in 2mm aluminium so I don't think adding the 3mm case layers will add too much. Also wound up changing the plate to 1.5mm for my first custom, didn't want to run into problems so early in the game.
EDIT: Updated attachments to reflect correct space bar stabilizer positions, also changed the thickness of the case to allow an extra mm gap between itself and the switches.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Rce3Jde.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nv2Evna.png)
Just sent off for the final quote on my design! Just hoping the cost doesn't blow out too much, got quoted $29 for the plate and base only in 2mm aluminium so I don't think adding the 3mm case layers will add too much. Also wound up changing the plate to 1.5mm for my first custom, didn't want to run into problems so early in the game.
EDIT: Updated attachments to reflect correct space bar stabilizer positions, also changed the thickness of the case to allow an extra mm gap between itself and the switches.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Rce3Jde.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nv2Evna.png)
I'm having a hard time picturing your layout. Where is your backspace? Is it 1x? Sorry if I'm missing something, but I'm interested in trying out a 65% myself and am curious.
I'm having a hard time picturing your layout. Where is your backspace? Is it 1x? Sorry if I'm missing something, but I'm interested in trying out a 65% myself and am curious.
I'm having a hard time realising how that even happened, cheers for pointing it out! Thank god you caught it, I would have sent that to the cutters!
I'm having a hard time picturing your layout. Where is your backspace? Is it 1x? Sorry if I'm missing something, but I'm interested in trying out a 65% myself and am curious.
Alright I've updated my layout again to include the correct backspace size, also updated the attachments in my previous post so no-one gets caught out.I'm having a hard time picturing your layout. Where is your backspace? Is it 1x? Sorry if I'm missing something, but I'm interested in trying out a 65% myself and am curious.
Here (http://ne0.cc/laygen/#Esc%3A%3A1%20%201%3A%3A1%20%202%3A%3A1%20%203%3A%3A1%20%204%3A%3A1%20%205%3A%3A1%20%206%3A%3A1%20%207%3A%3A1%20%208%3A%3A1%20%209%3A%3A1%20%200%3A%3A1%20%20-_%3A%3A1%20%20+%3D%3A%3A1%20%20Backspace%3A%3A2%20%20Prt%3A%3A1%24%24%20%0ATab%3A%3A1.5%20%20Q%3A%3A1%20%20W%3A%3A1%20%20E%3A%3A1%20%20R%3A%3A1%20%20T%3A%3A1%20%20Y%3A%3A1%20%20U%3A%3A1%20%20I%3A%3A1%20%20O%3A%3A1%20%20P%3A%3A1%20%20%5B%7B%3A%3A1%20%20%5D%7D%3A%3A1%20%20%5C%7C%3A%3A1.5%20%20Del%3A%3A1%24%24%0ACtrl%3A%3A1.75%20%20A%3A%3A1%20%20S%3A%3A1%20%20D%3A%3A1%20%20F%3A%3A1%20%20G%3A%3A1%20%20H%3A%3A1%20%20J%3A%3A1%20%20K%3A%3A1%20%20L%3A%3A1%20%20%3B%3A%20%3A%3A1%20%20%27%22%3A%3A1%20%20Enter%3A%3A2.25%20%20+%3A%3A1%24%24%0AShift%3A%3A2.25%20%20Z%3A%3A1%20%20X%3A%3A1%20%20C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20B%3A%3A1%20%20N%3A%3A1%20%20M%3A%3A1%20%20%3C%2C%3A%3A1%20%20%3E.%3A%3A1%20%20/%3F%3A%3A1%20%20Shift%3A%3A1.75%20%20%5E%3A%3A1%20%20Fn%3A%3A1%24%24%0AWin%3A%3A1.5%20%20Alt%3A%3A1.5%20%20Space%3A%3A7%20%20Caps%3A%3A1.5%20%20Fn%3A%3A1.5%20%20%3C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20%3E%3A%3A1%24%24%20%0A) is the layout I've been using to visualise everything. If it looks like it hasn't loaded properly just refresh the page and it should come good.
Picked up the plate and case from the laser cutters this morning only to discover they'd totally fubared it. Stab and switch holes are off in about 8 places and they've burnt the **** out of it in several spots too. So unimpressed, waiting on the idiots to get back to me now.
Picked up the plate and case from the laser cutters this morning only to discover they'd totally fubared it. Stab and switch holes are off in about 8 places and they've burnt the **** out of it in several spots too. So unimpressed, waiting on the idiots to get back to me now.
Wow - that sucks. Hopefully they will re-run it for you. How can they screw up the locations when the laser is driven by a CAD file? Did the plate move during the cutting?
I couldn't resist adding keycaps to my switches to see how it's going to look. It's amazing how well the color combinations from the DSA retro GB worked on for my build. Everything is nice and symmetric and looks fantastic.
Your ergo looks incredible by the way! Guessing you still need to wire it all up?
Very nice, TD. I can't wait to see the finished version. Thank you for sharing your build log with us. It looks like you are coming along quite nicely, and will soon have this working to your specs. I love to see this type of innovation going on here.
It's like I told my wife the other night... On Geekhack, if there is something we need or want that doesn't exist, or isn't quite perfect, we either make it ourselves, or have it made for us. We simply refuse to accept that we can't have what we want.
@TD: Looks great with those caps on there! Cool to see it coming together. What are your plans for the case?
Laser cutters have come through for me, they apologised profusely and re-cut the plate this afternoon. I'll be spewing if my switches arrive tomorrow, can't get down to pick up the new plate till Monday :S
Laser cutters have come through for me, they apologised profusely and re-cut the plate this afternoon. I'll be spewing if my switches arrive tomorrow, can't get down to pick up the new plate till Monday :S
Glad they came through for you. Do they have any idea what the problem was? FYI - my plates did have some light burning - especially around the areas where the laser punches through to start the switch holes. I used a random orbit sander with 150, 180, and 220 grit paper to clean it up and almost all the burn marks were completely gone. I ended up w/ a sort of "stone washed" type finish. Up close you can see a random scratch patter but a few feet back and it looks like a nice uniform finish (and it's hidden by the keys anyway).
Just sent off for the final quote on my design! Just hoping the cost doesn't blow out too much, got quoted $29 for the plate and base only in 2mm aluminium so I don't think adding the 3mm case layers will add too much. Also wound up changing the plate to 1.5mm for my first custom, didn't want to run into problems so early in the game.
EDIT: Updated attachments to reflect correct space bar stabilizer AND backspace positions, also changed the thickness of the case to allow an extra mm gap between itself and the switches.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/fA8fCOy.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nv2Evna.png)
Just sent off for the final quote on my design! Just hoping the cost doesn't blow out too much, got quoted $29 for the plate and base only in 2mm aluminium so I don't think adding the 3mm case layers will add too much. Also wound up changing the plate to 1.5mm for my first custom, didn't want to run into problems so early in the game.
EDIT: Updated attachments to reflect correct space bar stabilizer AND backspace positions, also changed the thickness of the case to allow an extra mm gap between itself and the switches.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/fA8fCOy.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nv2Evna.png)
Two questions for you:
1. Do your stabilizer slots allow for only particular types of stabilizers to be used?
2. I wanted to try the 40% case in the OP that JD designed, but I'm not ready to give up that many keys yet, and I absolutely love your layout design. Would you be offended if there were another case just like yours in the world? (I know you posted the .dwg files, but I want to ask anyway)
Two questions for you:
1. Do your stabilizer slots allow for only particular types of stabilizers to be used?
2. I wanted to try the 40% case in the OP that JD designed, but I'm not ready to give up that many keys yet, and I absolutely love your layout design. Would you be offended if there were another case just like yours in the world? (I know you posted the .dwg files, but I want to ask anyway)
Yep those stabiliser slots are for Co-Star stabilisers however they are available new from WASD and they're dead cheap.
And no problems if you want to use my design, I'd be pretty chuffed to see another one like mine across the pond! I piggy-backed off Matt3o's design anyway :D
EDIT: Also, a question for jdcarpe.
The 40% on the front page is still intriguing to me, but it's tough to match up the plate design to what an actual layout would be with it. I took some time and made this (http://ne0.cc/laygen/#Esc%3A%3A1%20%20Q%3A%3A1%20%20W%3A%3A1%20%20E%3A%3A1%20%20R%3A%3A1%20%20T%3A%3A1%20%20Y%3A%3A1%20%20U%3A%3A1%20%20I%3A%3A1%20%20O%3A%3A1%20%20P%3A%3A1%20%20Back%3A%3A1%24%24%0ATab%3A%3A1.25%20%20A%3A%3A1%20%20S%3A%3A1%20%20D%3A%3A1%20%20F%3A%3A1%20%20G%3A%3A1%20%20H%3A%3A1%20%20J%3A%3A1%20%20K%3A%3A1%20%20L%3A%3A1%20%20Enter%3A%3A1.75%24%24%0AShift%3A%3A1.75%20%20Z%3A%3A1%20%20X%3A%3A1%20%20C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20B%3A%3A1%20%20N%3A%3A1%20%20M%3A%3A1%20%20/%3F%3A%3A1%20%20Shift%3A%3A1.25%20%20Del%3A%3A1%24%24%0ACtrl%3A%3A1.25%20%20Win%3A%3A1%20%20Alt%3A%3A1%20%20%20%20Space%3A%3A6.25%20%20Caps%3A%3A1.25%20%20Fn%3A%3A1.25%24%24) layout design which I think matches up. Can you confirm?
EDIT: Also, a question for jdcarpe.
The 40% on the front page is still intriguing to me, but it's tough to match up the plate design to what an actual layout would be with it. I took some time and made this (http://ne0.cc/laygen/#Esc%3A%3A1%20%20Q%3A%3A1%20%20W%3A%3A1%20%20E%3A%3A1%20%20R%3A%3A1%20%20T%3A%3A1%20%20Y%3A%3A1%20%20U%3A%3A1%20%20I%3A%3A1%20%20O%3A%3A1%20%20P%3A%3A1%20%20Back%3A%3A1%24%24%0ATab%3A%3A1.25%20%20A%3A%3A1%20%20S%3A%3A1%20%20D%3A%3A1%20%20F%3A%3A1%20%20G%3A%3A1%20%20H%3A%3A1%20%20J%3A%3A1%20%20K%3A%3A1%20%20L%3A%3A1%20%20Enter%3A%3A1.75%24%24%0AShift%3A%3A1.75%20%20Z%3A%3A1%20%20X%3A%3A1%20%20C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20B%3A%3A1%20%20N%3A%3A1%20%20M%3A%3A1%20%20/%3F%3A%3A1%20%20Shift%3A%3A1.25%20%20Del%3A%3A1%24%24%0ACtrl%3A%3A1.25%20%20Win%3A%3A1%20%20Alt%3A%3A1%20%20%20%20Space%3A%3A6.25%20%20Caps%3A%3A1.25%20%20Fn%3A%3A1.25%24%24) layout design which I think matches up. Can you confirm?
Yes, that would definitely work. I was thinkning of something like this (http://ne0.cc/laygen/#Esc%3A%3A1%20%20Q%3A%3A1%20%20W%3A%3A1%20%20E%3A%3A1%20%20R%3A%3A1%20%20T%3A%3A1%20%20Y%3A%3A1%20%20U%3A%3A1%20%20I%3A%3A1%20%20O%3A%3A1%20%20P%3A%3A1%20%20Del%3A%3A1%24%24%0ATab%3A%3A1.25%20%20A%3A%3A1%20%20S%3A%3A1%20%20D%3A%3A1%20%20F%3A%3A1%20%20G%3A%3A1%20%20H%3A%3A1%20%20J%3A%3A1%20%20K%3A%3A1%20%20L%3A%3A1%20%20Enter%3A%3A1.75%24%24%0AShift%3A%3A1.75%20%20Z%3A%3A1%20%20X%3A%3A1%20%20C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20B%3A%3A1%20%20N%3A%3A1%20%20M%3A%3A1%20%20.%3A%3A1%20%20Shift%3A%3A1.25%20%20F.Lock%3A%3A1%24%24%0ACtrl%3A%3A1.25%20%20Fn%3A%3A1%20%20Alt%3A%3A1%20%20%20%20Space%3A%3A6.25%20%20Alt%3A%3A1.25%20%20Ctrl%3A%3A1.25%24%24).
but I might like aspects of yours better. :)
I'd much prefer to have a full-sized backspace key, and settle for no 'delete'.
I want ask :D what name on the matrixShow Image(http://www.lowpoly.com/keyboard/m0110/m0110_120.jpg)
not,like wiring?I want ask :D what name on the matrixShow Image(http://www.lowpoly.com/keyboard/m0110/m0110_120.jpg)
What switches?
you want to know the kind of wire to use? I actually used any kind and all worked :) The one in the picture seems at least 1mmOh thanks matteo :thumb: apparently a wire :D
Let's shift the delete, print screen, arrow keys, home, end, and number pad .25 keys to the right then. I wouldn't mind the non uniform gap between the number pad and the rest of the keyboard.
Hi, can someone make a dwg ofShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/j0Nb6Id.png)
What is the maximum thickness of the steel plate?
Had a great idea I would like to try out, do you think you could design a plate for this layout? (Only if you have the time of course) http://ne0.cc/laygen/#Tab%3A%3A1%20%20Q%3A%3A1%20%20W%3A%3A1%20%20E%3A%3A1%20%20R%3A%3A1%20%20T%3A%3A1%20%20Y%3A%3A1%20%20U%3A%3A1%20%20I%3A%3A1%20%20O%3A%3A1%20%20P%3A%3A1%20%20Back%3A%3A1%20%20Del%3A%3A1%24%24%0AEsc%3A%3A1%20%20A%3A%3A1%20%20S%3A%3A1%20%20D%3A%3A1%20%20F%3A%3A1%20%20G%3A%3A1%20%20H%3A%3A1%20%20J%3A%3A1%20%20K%3A%3A1%20%20L%3A%3A1%20%20%3A%3B%3A%3A1%20%20%22%27%3A%3A1%20%20Enter%3A%3A1%24%24%0AShift%3A%3A1%20%20Z%3A%3A1%20%20X%3A%3A1%20%20C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20B%3A%3A1%20%20N%3A%3A1%20%20M%3A%3A1%20%20/%3F%3A%3A1%20%20%3C%2C%3A%3A1%20%20%3E.%3A%3A1%20%20Up%3A%3A1%20%20Fn%3A%3A1%24%24%0ACtrl%3A%3A1%20%20Alt%3A%3A1%20%20Num%3A%3A1%20%20Space%3A%3A6%20%20Win%3A%3A1%20%20Left%3A%3A1%20%20Down%3A%3A1%20%20Rght%3A%3A1%24%24 (http://ne0.cc/laygen/#Tab%3A%3A1%20%20Q%3A%3A1%20%20W%3A%3A1%20%20E%3A%3A1%20%20R%3A%3A1%20%20T%3A%3A1%20%20Y%3A%3A1%20%20U%3A%3A1%20%20I%3A%3A1%20%20O%3A%3A1%20%20P%3A%3A1%20%20Back%3A%3A1%20%20Del%3A%3A1%24%24%0AEsc%3A%3A1%20%20A%3A%3A1%20%20S%3A%3A1%20%20D%3A%3A1%20%20F%3A%3A1%20%20G%3A%3A1%20%20H%3A%3A1%20%20J%3A%3A1%20%20K%3A%3A1%20%20L%3A%3A1%20%20%3A%3B%3A%3A1%20%20%22%27%3A%3A1%20%20Enter%3A%3A1%24%24%0AShift%3A%3A1%20%20Z%3A%3A1%20%20X%3A%3A1%20%20C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20B%3A%3A1%20%20N%3A%3A1%20%20M%3A%3A1%20%20/%3F%3A%3A1%20%20%3C%2C%3A%3A1%20%20%3E.%3A%3A1%20%20Up%3A%3A1%20%20Fn%3A%3A1%24%24%0ACtrl%3A%3A1%20%20Alt%3A%3A1%20%20Num%3A%3A1%20%20Space%3A%3A6%20%20Win%3A%3A1%20%20Left%3A%3A1%20%20Down%3A%3A1%20%20Rght%3A%3A1%24%24)
Had a great idea I would like to try out, do you think you could design a plate for this layout? (Only if you have the time of course) http://ne0.cc/laygen/#Tab%3A%3A1%20%20Q%3A%3A1%20%20W%3A%3A1%20%20E%3A%3A1%20%20R%3A%3A1%20%20T%3A%3A1%20%20Y%3A%3A1%20%20U%3A%3A1%20%20I%3A%3A1%20%20O%3A%3A1%20%20P%3A%3A1%20%20Back%3A%3A1%20%20Del%3A%3A1%24%24%0AEsc%3A%3A1%20%20A%3A%3A1%20%20S%3A%3A1%20%20D%3A%3A1%20%20F%3A%3A1%20%20G%3A%3A1%20%20H%3A%3A1%20%20J%3A%3A1%20%20K%3A%3A1%20%20L%3A%3A1%20%20%3A%3B%3A%3A1%20%20%22%27%3A%3A1%20%20Enter%3A%3A1%24%24%0AShift%3A%3A1%20%20Z%3A%3A1%20%20X%3A%3A1%20%20C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20B%3A%3A1%20%20N%3A%3A1%20%20M%3A%3A1%20%20/%3F%3A%3A1%20%20%3C%2C%3A%3A1%20%20%3E.%3A%3A1%20%20Up%3A%3A1%20%20Fn%3A%3A1%24%24%0ACtrl%3A%3A1%20%20Alt%3A%3A1%20%20Num%3A%3A1%20%20Space%3A%3A6%20%20Win%3A%3A1%20%20Left%3A%3A1%20%20Down%3A%3A1%20%20Rght%3A%3A1%24%24 (http://ne0.cc/laygen/#Tab%3A%3A1%20%20Q%3A%3A1%20%20W%3A%3A1%20%20E%3A%3A1%20%20R%3A%3A1%20%20T%3A%3A1%20%20Y%3A%3A1%20%20U%3A%3A1%20%20I%3A%3A1%20%20O%3A%3A1%20%20P%3A%3A1%20%20Back%3A%3A1%20%20Del%3A%3A1%24%24%0AEsc%3A%3A1%20%20A%3A%3A1%20%20S%3A%3A1%20%20D%3A%3A1%20%20F%3A%3A1%20%20G%3A%3A1%20%20H%3A%3A1%20%20J%3A%3A1%20%20K%3A%3A1%20%20L%3A%3A1%20%20%3A%3B%3A%3A1%20%20%22%27%3A%3A1%20%20Enter%3A%3A1%24%24%0AShift%3A%3A1%20%20Z%3A%3A1%20%20X%3A%3A1%20%20C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20B%3A%3A1%20%20N%3A%3A1%20%20M%3A%3A1%20%20/%3F%3A%3A1%20%20%3C%2C%3A%3A1%20%20%3E.%3A%3A1%20%20Up%3A%3A1%20%20Fn%3A%3A1%24%24%0ACtrl%3A%3A1%20%20Alt%3A%3A1%20%20Num%3A%3A1%20%20Space%3A%3A6%20%20Win%3A%3A1%20%20Left%3A%3A1%20%20Down%3A%3A1%20%20Rght%3A%3A1%24%24)
Here you go. This uses a center-stemmed 6.00-unit spacebar.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/n3x4YIM.png)
This plate drawing is also in mm. :)
What do you guys think of this layout (http://ne0.cc/laygen/#Esc%3A%3A1%20%201%3A%3A1%20%202%3A%3A1%20%203%3A%3A1%20%204%3A%3A1%20%205%3A%3A1%20%206%3A%3A1%20%207%3A%3A1%20%208%3A%3A1%20%209%3A%3A1%20%200%3A%3A1%20%20-_%3A%3A1%20%20+%3D%3A%3A1%20%20Backspace%3A%3A2%20%20%3A%3A.25%20%20Vol+%3A%3A1.5%20%20P/P%3A%3A1%20%20Vol-%3A%3A1.5%24%24%0ATab%3A%3A1.5%20%20Q%3A%3A1%20%20W%3A%3A1%20%20E%3A%3A1%20%20R%3A%3A1%20%20T%3A%3A1%20%20Y%3A%3A1%20%20U%3A%3A1%20%20I%3A%3A1%20%20O%3A%3A1%20%20P%3A%3A1%20%20%5B%7B%3A%3A1%20%20%5D%7D%3A%3A1%20%20%5C%7C%3A%3A1.5%20%20%3A%3A.25%20%20Ctrl%3A%3A1.5%20%20Del%3A%3A1%20%20Alt%3A%3A1.5%24%24%0ACaps%20Lock%3A%3A1.75%20%20A%3A%3A1%20%20S%3A%3A1%20%20D%3A%3A1%20%20F%3A%3A1%20%20G%3A%3A1%20%20H%3A%3A1%20%20J%3A%3A1%20%20K%3A%3A1%20%20L%3A%3A1%20%20%3B%3A%20%3A%3A1%20%20%27%22%3A%3A1%20%20Enter%3A%3A2.25%20%20%3A%3A.25%24%24%0AShift%3A%3A2.25%20%20Z%3A%3A1%20%20X%3A%3A1%20%20C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20B%3A%3A1%20%20N%3A%3A1%20%20M%3A%3A1%20%20%3C%2C%3A%3A1%20%20%3E.%3A%3A1%20%20/%3F%3A%3A1%20%20Shift%3A%3A2.75%20%20%3A%3A1.75%20%20%5E%3A%3A1%24%24%0ASpace%3A%3A15%20%20%3A%3A.75%20%20%3C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20%3E%3A%3A1%24%24). Never mind the empty keys toward the right side. They are just place holders to position the "navigation clusters" where I wanted them.
Melvang
I like it but I would shift the bottom 2 rows back to the left a touch just so its centered with the other 3 rows.
What do you guys think of this layout (http://ne0.cc/laygen/#Esc%3A%3A1%20%201%3A%3A1%20%202%3A%3A1%20%203%3A%3A1%20%204%3A%3A1%20%205%3A%3A1%20%206%3A%3A1%20%207%3A%3A1%20%208%3A%3A1%20%209%3A%3A1%20%200%3A%3A1%20%20-_%3A%3A1%20%20+%3D%3A%3A1%20%20Backspace%3A%3A2%20%20%3A%3A.25%20%20Vol+%3A%3A1.5%20%20Win%3A%3A1%20%20Vol-%3A%3A1.5%24%24%0ATab%3A%3A1.5%20%20Q%3A%3A1%20%20W%3A%3A1%20%20E%3A%3A1%20%20R%3A%3A1%20%20T%3A%3A1%20%20Y%3A%3A1%20%20U%3A%3A1%20%20I%3A%3A1%20%20O%3A%3A1%20%20P%3A%3A1%20%20%5B%7B%3A%3A1%20%20%5D%7D%3A%3A1%20%20%5C%7C%3A%3A1.5%20%20%3A%3A.25%20%20Ctrl%3A%3A1.5%20%20Del%3A%3A1%20%20Alt%3A%3A1.5%24%24%0ACaps%20Lock%3A%3A1.75%20%20A%3A%3A1%20%20S%3A%3A1%20%20D%3A%3A1%20%20F%3A%3A1%20%20G%3A%3A1%20%20H%3A%3A1%20%20J%3A%3A1%20%20K%3A%3A1%20%20L%3A%3A1%20%20%3B%3A%20%3A%3A1%20%20%27%22%3A%3A1%20%20Enter%3A%3A2.25%20%20%3A%3A.25%24%24%0AShift%3A%3A2.25%20%20Z%3A%3A1%20%20X%3A%3A1%20%20C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20B%3A%3A1%20%20N%3A%3A1%20%20M%3A%3A1%20%20%3C%2C%3A%3A1%20%20%3E.%3A%3A1%20%20/%3F%3A%3A1%20%20Shift%3A%3A2.75%20%20%3A%3A1.75%20%20%5E%3A%3A1%24%24%0ASpace%3A%3A15%20%20%3A%3A.75%20%20%3C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20%3E%3A%3A1%24%24). Never mind the empty keys toward the right side. They are just place holders to position the "navigation clusters" where I wanted them.
Melvang
Edit: changed the P/P which was play/pause to Windows key
What do you guys think of this layout (http://ne0.cc/laygen/#Esc%3A%3A1%20%201%3A%3A1%20%202%3A%3A1%20%203%3A%3A1%20%204%3A%3A1%20%205%3A%3A1%20%206%3A%3A1%20%207%3A%3A1%20%208%3A%3A1%20%209%3A%3A1%20%200%3A%3A1%20%20-_%3A%3A1%20%20+%3D%3A%3A1%20%20Backspace%3A%3A2%20%20%3A%3A.25%20%20Vol+%3A%3A1.5%20%20Win%3A%3A1%20%20Vol-%3A%3A1.5%24%24%0ATab%3A%3A1.5%20%20Q%3A%3A1%20%20W%3A%3A1%20%20E%3A%3A1%20%20R%3A%3A1%20%20T%3A%3A1%20%20Y%3A%3A1%20%20U%3A%3A1%20%20I%3A%3A1%20%20O%3A%3A1%20%20P%3A%3A1%20%20%5B%7B%3A%3A1%20%20%5D%7D%3A%3A1%20%20%5C%7C%3A%3A1.5%20%20%3A%3A.25%20%20Ctrl%3A%3A1.5%20%20Del%3A%3A1%20%20Alt%3A%3A1.5%24%24%0ACaps%20Lock%3A%3A1.75%20%20A%3A%3A1%20%20S%3A%3A1%20%20D%3A%3A1%20%20F%3A%3A1%20%20G%3A%3A1%20%20H%3A%3A1%20%20J%3A%3A1%20%20K%3A%3A1%20%20L%3A%3A1%20%20%3B%3A%20%3A%3A1%20%20%27%22%3A%3A1%20%20Enter%3A%3A2.25%20%20%3A%3A.25%24%24%0AShift%3A%3A2.25%20%20Z%3A%3A1%20%20X%3A%3A1%20%20C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20B%3A%3A1%20%20N%3A%3A1%20%20M%3A%3A1%20%20%3C%2C%3A%3A1%20%20%3E.%3A%3A1%20%20/%3F%3A%3A1%20%20Shift%3A%3A2.75%20%20%3A%3A1.75%20%20%5E%3A%3A1%24%24%0ASpace%3A%3A15%20%20%3A%3A.75%20%20%3C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20%3E%3A%3A1%24%24). Never mind the empty keys toward the right side. They are just place holders to position the "navigation clusters" where I wanted them.
Melvang
Edit: changed the P/P which was play/pause to Windows key
Why in the world is the control where delete is. And caps lock where it normally is? You never use control?
Here is a keyboard layout I would like to have. I trust that someone can do the corresponding plate template for it.
Here is a keyboard layout I would like to have. I trust that someone can do the corresponding plate template for it.
Check here (http://cpkey.com/keyboards/) I think that is an existing layout
What do you guys think of this layout (http://ne0.cc/laygen/#Esc%3A%3A1%20%201%3A%3A1%20%202%3A%3A1%20%203%3A%3A1%20%204%3A%3A1%20%205%3A%3A1%20%206%3A%3A1%20%207%3A%3A1%20%208%3A%3A1%20%209%3A%3A1%20%200%3A%3A1%20%20-_%3A%3A1%20%20+%3D%3A%3A1%20%20Backspace%3A%3A2%20%20%3A%3A.25%20%20Vol+%3A%3A1.5%20%20Win%3A%3A1%20%20Vol-%3A%3A1.5%24%24%0ATab%3A%3A1.5%20%20Q%3A%3A1%20%20W%3A%3A1%20%20E%3A%3A1%20%20R%3A%3A1%20%20T%3A%3A1%20%20Y%3A%3A1%20%20U%3A%3A1%20%20I%3A%3A1%20%20O%3A%3A1%20%20P%3A%3A1%20%20%5B%7B%3A%3A1%20%20%5D%7D%3A%3A1%20%20%5C%7C%3A%3A1.5%20%20%3A%3A.25%20%20Ctrl%3A%3A1.5%20%20Del%3A%3A1%20%20Alt%3A%3A1.5%24%24%0ACaps%20Lock%3A%3A1.75%20%20A%3A%3A1%20%20S%3A%3A1%20%20D%3A%3A1%20%20F%3A%3A1%20%20G%3A%3A1%20%20H%3A%3A1%20%20J%3A%3A1%20%20K%3A%3A1%20%20L%3A%3A1%20%20%3B%3A%20%3A%3A1%20%20%27%22%3A%3A1%20%20Enter%3A%3A2.25%20%20%3A%3A.25%24%24%0AShift%3A%3A2.25%20%20Z%3A%3A1%20%20X%3A%3A1%20%20C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20B%3A%3A1%20%20N%3A%3A1%20%20M%3A%3A1%20%20%3C%2C%3A%3A1%20%20%3E.%3A%3A1%20%20/%3F%3A%3A1%20%20Shift%3A%3A2.75%20%20%3A%3A1.75%20%20%5E%3A%3A1%24%24%0ASpace%3A%3A15%20%20%3A%3A.75%20%20%3C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20%3E%3A%3A1%24%24).
Here is a keyboard layout I would like to have. I trust that someone can do the corresponding plate template for it.
Check here (http://cpkey.com/keyboards/) I think that is an existing layout
Thanks. Looks like it could be the LZ EX. Is it possible to procure this keyboard in the USA? If so, what would it cost?
What do you guys think of this layout (http://ne0.cc/laygen/#Esc%3A%3A1%20%201%3A%3A1%20%202%3A%3A1%20%203%3A%3A1%20%204%3A%3A1%20%205%3A%3A1%20%206%3A%3A1%20%207%3A%3A1%20%208%3A%3A1%20%209%3A%3A1%20%200%3A%3A1%20%20-_%3A%3A1%20%20+%3D%3A%3A1%20%20Backspace%3A%3A2%20%20%3A%3A.25%20%20Vol+%3A%3A1.5%20%20Win%3A%3A1%20%20Vol-%3A%3A1.5%24%24%0ATab%3A%3A1.5%20%20Q%3A%3A1%20%20W%3A%3A1%20%20E%3A%3A1%20%20R%3A%3A1%20%20T%3A%3A1%20%20Y%3A%3A1%20%20U%3A%3A1%20%20I%3A%3A1%20%20O%3A%3A1%20%20P%3A%3A1%20%20%5B%7B%3A%3A1%20%20%5D%7D%3A%3A1%20%20%5C%7C%3A%3A1.5%20%20%3A%3A.25%20%20Ctrl%3A%3A1.5%20%20Del%3A%3A1%20%20Alt%3A%3A1.5%24%24%0ACaps%20Lock%3A%3A1.75%20%20A%3A%3A1%20%20S%3A%3A1%20%20D%3A%3A1%20%20F%3A%3A1%20%20G%3A%3A1%20%20H%3A%3A1%20%20J%3A%3A1%20%20K%3A%3A1%20%20L%3A%3A1%20%20%3B%3A%20%3A%3A1%20%20%27%22%3A%3A1%20%20Enter%3A%3A2.25%20%20%3A%3A.25%24%24%0AShift%3A%3A2.25%20%20Z%3A%3A1%20%20X%3A%3A1%20%20C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20B%3A%3A1%20%20N%3A%3A1%20%20M%3A%3A1%20%20%3C%2C%3A%3A1%20%20%3E.%3A%3A1%20%20/%3F%3A%3A1%20%20Shift%3A%3A2.75%20%20%3A%3A1.75%20%20%5E%3A%3A1%24%24%0ASpace%3A%3A15%20%20%3A%3A.75%20%20%3C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20%3E%3A%3A1%24%24).
Ahhh!
Where are my modifier keys!?
OTOH: Anything to dump the windows key!
Here is a keyboard layout I would like to have. I trust that someone can do the corresponding plate template for it.
What do you guys think of this layout (http://ne0.cc/laygen/#Esc%3A%3A1%20%201%3A%3A1%20%202%3A%3A1%20%203%3A%3A1%20%204%3A%3A1%20%205%3A%3A1%20%206%3A%3A1%20%207%3A%3A1%20%208%3A%3A1%20%209%3A%3A1%20%200%3A%3A1%20%20-_%3A%3A1%20%20+%3D%3A%3A1%20%20Backspace%3A%3A2%20%20%3A%3A.25%20%20Vol+%3A%3A1.5%20%20Win%3A%3A1%20%20Vol-%3A%3A1.5%24%24%0ATab%3A%3A1.5%20%20Q%3A%3A1%20%20W%3A%3A1%20%20E%3A%3A1%20%20R%3A%3A1%20%20T%3A%3A1%20%20Y%3A%3A1%20%20U%3A%3A1%20%20I%3A%3A1%20%20O%3A%3A1%20%20P%3A%3A1%20%20%5B%7B%3A%3A1%20%20%5D%7D%3A%3A1%20%20%5C%7C%3A%3A1.5%20%20%3A%3A.25%20%20Ctrl%3A%3A1.5%20%20Del%3A%3A1%20%20Alt%3A%3A1.5%24%24%0ACaps%20Lock%3A%3A1.75%20%20A%3A%3A1%20%20S%3A%3A1%20%20D%3A%3A1%20%20F%3A%3A1%20%20G%3A%3A1%20%20H%3A%3A1%20%20J%3A%3A1%20%20K%3A%3A1%20%20L%3A%3A1%20%20%3B%3A%20%3A%3A1%20%20%27%22%3A%3A1%20%20Enter%3A%3A2.25%20%20%3A%3A.25%24%24%0AShift%3A%3A2.25%20%20Z%3A%3A1%20%20X%3A%3A1%20%20C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20B%3A%3A1%20%20N%3A%3A1%20%20M%3A%3A1%20%20%3C%2C%3A%3A1%20%20%3E.%3A%3A1%20%20/%3F%3A%3A1%20%20Shift%3A%3A2.75%20%20%3A%3A1.75%20%20%5E%3A%3A1%24%24%0ASpace%3A%3A15%20%20%3A%3A.75%20%20%3C%3A%3A1%20%20V%3A%3A1%20%20%3E%3A%3A1%24%24). Never mind the empty keys toward the right side. They are just place holders to position the "navigation clusters" where I wanted them.Dat SPACEbar...
Melvang
Edit: changed the P/P which was play/pause to Windows key
Here is a keyboard layout I would like to have. I trust that someone can do the corresponding plate template for it.
Yes, this layout is awesome. It exists? I googled LZ-EX but nothing came up. Can anyone post a link or a photo for the LZ-EX ?
BTW the leopold FC660 comes close to this layout, only it's has this huge gap and missing Home/End keys even though it has the space for it on the right hand side. What a shameful waste of real estate :-(
(Attachment Link)
crazy layout FTW!! :-X
Someone seen this adapter socket made for the HBFS-30?Show Image(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qSNJRtbIdOk/UCVlRThtDuI/AAAAAAAAC3w/UsQ4cpFXqWw/s500/HBFS30_socket.gif)
Would be awesome for quick and simple solder-less wiring...
Perhaps we should talk to the HBFS-30 guys and get a GB started?
http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/hbfs-30-the-all-new-arcade-button-with-cherry-mx-keyswitch
EDIT: Sent him a email and Facebook message, lets see if he is willing to sell the adapters separately :)
Someone seen this adapter socket made for the HBFS-30?Show Image(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qSNJRtbIdOk/UCVlRThtDuI/AAAAAAAAC3w/UsQ4cpFXqWw/s500/HBFS30_socket.gif)
Would be awesome for quick and simple solder-less wiring...
Perhaps we should talk to the HBFS-30 guys and get a GB started?
http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/hbfs-30-the-all-new-arcade-button-with-cherry-mx-keyswitch
EDIT: Sent him a email and Facebook message, lets see if he is willing to sell the adapters separately :)
Have their been any reviews of this, I doubt it will be able to take the abuse of daily use.
Someone seen this adapter socket made for the HBFS-30?Show Image(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qSNJRtbIdOk/UCVlRThtDuI/AAAAAAAAC3w/UsQ4cpFXqWw/s500/HBFS30_socket.gif)
Would be awesome for quick and simple solder-less wiring...
Perhaps we should talk to the HBFS-30 guys and get a GB started?
http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/hbfs-30-the-all-new-arcade-button-with-cherry-mx-keyswitch
EDIT: Sent him a email and Facebook message, lets see if he is willing to sell the adapters separately :)
Has anyone ever considered multiple plates into a case to really play around with the layout on a hardwired matrix? IE have one separate plate for each row of keys? Granted yes it is a separate plate for each row but for the rows that you aren't completely sure on what layout you want to use you could have a separate plate cut for just that row. Not sure if you want 1.25 or 1.5 mods? Just swap out the plate for the bottom row. Just an idea that I was throwing around. It might even be the same price due to the cost of the raw material from a sheet wide enough for the full board to just wide enough for an individual row of switches.
Melvang
Has anyone ever considered multiple plates into a case to really play around with the layout on a hardwired matrix? IE have one separate plate for each row of keys? Granted yes it is a separate plate for each row but for the rows that you aren't completely sure on what layout you want to use you could have a separate plate cut for just that row. Not sure if you want 1.25 or 1.5 mods? Just swap out the plate for the bottom row. Just an idea that I was throwing around. It might even be the same price due to the cost of the raw material from a sheet wide enough for the full board to just wide enough for an individual row of switches.
Melvang
Has anyone ever considered multiple plates into a case to really play around with the layout on a hardwired matrix? IE have one separate plate for each row of keys? Granted yes it is a separate plate for each row but for the rows that you aren't completely sure on what layout you want to use you could have a separate plate cut for just that row. Not sure if you want 1.25 or 1.5 mods? Just swap out the plate for the bottom row. Just an idea that I was throwing around. It might even be the same price due to the cost of the raw material from a sheet wide enough for the full board to just wide enough for an individual row of switches.
Melvang
Has anyone ever considered multiple plates into a case to really play around with the layout on a hardwired matrix? IE have one separate plate for each row of keys? Granted yes it is a separate plate for each row but for the rows that you aren't completely sure on what layout you want to use you could have a separate plate cut for just that row. Not sure if you want 1.25 or 1.5 mods? Just swap out the plate for the bottom row. Just an idea that I was throwing around. It might even be the same price due to the cost of the raw material from a sheet wide enough for the full board to just wide enough for an individual row of switches.
Melvang
Interesting idea, a bit like the adjustable ergodox sort of keypad a user once posted.
Has anyone ever considered multiple plates into a case to really play around with the layout on a hardwired matrix? IE have one separate plate for each row of keys? Granted yes it is a separate plate for each row but for the rows that you aren't completely sure on what layout you want to use you could have a separate plate cut for just that row. Not sure if you want 1.25 or 1.5 mods? Just swap out the plate for the bottom row. Just an idea that I was throwing around. It might even be the same price due to the cost of the raw material from a sheet wide enough for the full board to just wide enough for an individual row of switches.
Melvang
Interesting idea, a bit like the adjustable ergodox sort of keypad a user once posted.
I don't remember that one. Any chance for a link?
Has anyone ever considered multiple plates into a case to really play around with the layout on a hardwired matrix? IE have one separate plate for each row of keys? Granted yes it is a separate plate for each row but for the rows that you aren't completely sure on what layout you want to use you could have a separate plate cut for just that row. Not sure if you want 1.25 or 1.5 mods? Just swap out the plate for the bottom row. Just an idea that I was throwing around. It might even be the same price due to the cost of the raw material from a sheet wide enough for the full board to just wide enough for an individual row of switches.
Melvang
Interesting idea, a bit like the adjustable ergodox sort of keypad a user once posted.
I don't remember that one. Any chance for a link?
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45389.0
...
I'm sorry, this adapter is last year product.
In fact, it is inconvenient to use, too easy to loose, so I discontinued the production.
This year we redesigned the button.
We release HBFS-G2 in this month, have two size, HBFS-30 & HBFS-24.
The adapter design into one with Button Base.
This is our official website, there are more details about HBFS-G2
http://www.gamerfinger.com/hbfs30.html
...
Has anyone ever considered multiple plates into a case to really play around with the layout on a hardwired matrix? IE have one separate plate for each row of keys? Granted yes it is a separate plate for each row but for the rows that you aren't completely sure on what layout you want to use you could have a separate plate cut for just that row. Not sure if you want 1.25 or 1.5 mods? Just swap out the plate for the bottom row. Just an idea that I was throwing around. It might even be the same price due to the cost of the raw material from a sheet wide enough for the full board to just wide enough for an individual row of switches.
Melvang
Interesting idea, a bit like the adjustable ergodox sort of keypad a user once posted.
I don't remember that one. Any chance for a link?
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45389.0
Yup I remember that one now. Anyone know how that one turned out or if it ever got completely finished?
How about a small PCB piece (could be permanently fixed with glue) with solder pads for the switch pins leading to quick connect terminals?
You'd solder the switch once, but you can rewire it without any soldering because of the terminals, should also be sturdy/lasting...
(Attachment Link)
Someone seen this adapter socket made for the HBFS-30?Show Image(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qSNJRtbIdOk/UCVlRThtDuI/AAAAAAAAC3w/UsQ4cpFXqWw/s500/HBFS30_socket.gif)
Would be awesome for quick and simple solder-less wiring...
Perhaps we should talk to the HBFS-30 guys and get a GB started?
http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/hbfs-30-the-all-new-arcade-button-with-cherry-mx-keyswitch
EDIT: Sent him a email and Facebook message, lets see if he is willing to sell the adapters separately :)
Some helpful resources specially for plate designing: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47744
I love how the more recent crazy designs have control alt and delete right next to each other. Must be for windows users, since you'll need to just mash that corner.
I love how the more recent crazy designs have control alt and delete right next to each other. Must be for windows users, since you'll need to just mash that corner.
Huh!?
I love how the more recent crazy designs have control alt and delete right next to each other. Must be for windows users, since you'll need to just mash that corner.
Huh!?
I think he means like this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RSwURdz.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ffd4V8j.jpg)
Whether this teensy 2.0?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Teensy-USB-development-board-AVR-MKII-ISP-download-cable-AT90USB162-/171045833873?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d3204c91 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Teensy-USB-development-board-AVR-MKII-ISP-download-cable-AT90USB162-/171045833873?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d3204c91)
1. I do not believe that is an actual teensy 2.0
Whether this teensy 2.0?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Teensy-USB-development-board-AVR-MKII-ISP-download-cable-AT90USB162-/171045833873?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d3204c91 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Teensy-USB-development-board-AVR-MKII-ISP-download-cable-AT90USB162-/171045833873?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d3204c91)
Whether this teensy 2.0?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Teensy-USB-development-board-AVR-MKII-ISP-download-cable-AT90USB162-/171045833873?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d3204c91 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Teensy-USB-development-board-AVR-MKII-ISP-download-cable-AT90USB162-/171045833873?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d3204c91)
Seems legit...
any in here,can make design plate? :D
any in here,can make design plate? :D
any in here,can make design plate? :D
Check the CAD thread, and learnt o make it yourself. :D
Check the CAD thread, and learnt o make it yourself. :D
I agree - download one of the free CAD programs (I used DraftSight) and one of the .dwg files and try things out. I started doing this earlier this year and it was really very easy and a lot of fun to play around with different designs.Maybe,i will learn it!
Sure, just let me know what your design is.Like this,but ALPS :D
Check the CAD thread, and learnt o make it yourself. :DI agree - download one of the free CAD programs (I used DraftSight) and one of the .dwg files and try things out. I started doing this earlier this year and it was really very easy and a lot of fun to play around with different designs.Maybe,i will learn it!
Thanks man :thumb:Sure, just let me know what your design is.Like this,but ALPS :D
http://imgur.com/ynhSQLU
So once it's all attached to the Teensy, and code (Hasu's?) is loaded on the Teensy, how do you tell it which wires go to which rows/columns? Are there some connections on the Teensy you are supposed to use? Or does it matter? :confused:
new creature
So once it's all attached to the Teensy, and code (Hasu's?) is loaded on the Teensy, how do you tell it which wires go to which rows/columns? Are there some connections on the Teensy you are supposed to use? Or does it matter? :confused:
If you're using hasu's TMK firmware, it's in the matrix.c file. If I can figure it out, pretty much anyone can. If you need help, and have the matrix pin out, I can help you with it, or there is the TMK firmware thread.
new creature
As someone who owns a HHKB and likes blue switches, this is amazing! I demand more pics. :p
new creature
As someone who owns a HHKB and likes blue switches, this is amazing! I demand more pics. :p
Prototyping with cardboard works just fine. It was a pain to cut out all the holes but it's nice that I can actually type on it. Impossible to change of course but I guess you can't have everything and cardboard is cheap.
Hi jdcarpe,
I liked your 40% keyboard made me want one aswell. I think spacebars (in general) are too big. So here is my attempt. Could you please make the plate mount file for me?
(Attachment Link)
http://ne0.cc/laygenV2#UzKyX
What program are you using to create the layout files? Autocad? The laser cutter service near me wants VisiCut PLF files, but I think they will accept svgs aswell. I could you please check if you could export it to any of these formats, preferably both?
Miko
1N4148, as recommended by Dave Dribin
Are the recommended switch diodes the 1N4148 ones mentioned in lowpoly's write-up? He says he used;Quote1N4148, as recommended by Dave Dribin
...but I didn't see any explanation on why these were selected.
Do any of the common firmwares for the Teensy2.0 have the ability to send a different keycode based on if the key is being held down or tapped? What I was hoping to do is have my Esc key function as the Function key as well. Tap the key and it works as Esc and held it is a function key. If this is possible that would be AMAZING. I think this would be a nice key to do that with as well as I can't think of any reason that you would need to hold down the Esc key for extended periods of time. Well at least no off the top of my head that is.
Melvang
Do any of the common firmwares for the Teensy2.0 have the ability to send a different keycode based on if the key is being held down or tapped? What I was hoping to do is have my Esc key function as the Function key as well. Tap the key and it works as Esc and held it is a function key. If this is possible that would be AMAZING. I think this would be a nice key to do that with as well as I can't think of any reason that you would need to hold down the Esc key for extended periods of time. Well at least no off the top of my head that is.
Melvang
Do any of the common firmwares for the Teensy2.0 have the ability to send a different keycode based on if the key is being held down or tapped? What I was hoping to do is have my Esc key function as the Function key as well. Tap the key and it works as Esc and held it is a function key. If this is possible that would be AMAZING. I think this would be a nice key to do that with as well as I can't think of any reason that you would need to hold down the Esc key for extended periods of time. Well at least no off the top of my head that is.
Melvang
Did you read hasu's docs? Looks like it does what you want: https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/doc/keymap.md
Greetings;
I'm in need of a new keyboard. My old membrane board has too many things wrong to continue using it, and took it all apart to see what was there. Bought a cheap Gear Head wireless keyboard - terrible - returned it. Found a nicely clackety 2003 Logitech Y-BF37 "Internet Navigator" keyboard in the attic that I bought new for the scroll wheel feature, which I still like, then started looking for something simpler. Saw a bunch of 'hand carved' bamboo cased & keyed keyboards. I love how they look, but they don't get great reviews. I'm a woodworker. Naturally, I thought I could make one using my favorite hardwood, and so I set about trying to learn about the choices I have. That's when I discovered mechanical keyboards, and in particular, Cherry MX switches.
One of the questions I have is to know if the switches are always soldered to a PCB, or if they can be hardwired on the underside of the mounting plate?
The DWG files in this topic are awesome; what software creates those? Where would take / send one to have the plate made? Is there a place who sells stock plates and / or pcbs?
I've noticed that most ready-made keyboards are wired. I don't want lights or anything, and wireless has become very convenient. Any suggestions?
I've noticed that a low-priced ready-made Cherry MX mechanical keyboard can easily cost less than buying a bag of 110 switches, and refurbished keyboards are half or less of that. My son has seen what I've been thinking about. He wants one, too, so I have two of 'em to make, and keeping costs down are, unfortunately, a necessary fact of life. Any thoughts on going this direction?
Thanks for taking the time to read, and for any responses you might have.
Cool; thanks for your welcome, and for your response! I can see that I left some holes is my windy first post. The primary reasons for my interest in building one include the ability to make a beautifully crafted hardwood case, and the fact that I much prefer making things to buying them ready made. It's an approach that's worked for me because I've acquired some skills that have come in handy later for other things that have opened doors I might have completely missed otherwise. The primary reason for the second is that my son, who's almost 30, wants one too. Neither of us are really gamers. We use our computers for our business, for avid communication, and in my case, for an increasing amount of time spent coding.
I'm considering two used, working, but cosmetically imperfect G80-11900LUMEU-2 http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/keyboards/industrial/11900/index.htm (http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/keyboards/industrial/11900/index.htm) keyboards with 104 Cherry MX black switches for < $40 combined. I don't need the plastic case nor the exposed portion of the caps because those will all be made of wood. The configuration isn't what either of us would necessarily pick, and they don't support Win 8, so I'm not sure how much of anything I could salvage from the boards except the switches. Still, that seems a good price even if that's all I do salvage.
I'm not looking for a compact so much, though I could get used to it. If I could salvage the PCB to which these switches are soldered, I could get used to it's configuration, too. I don't know how to upgrade it to something that does support Win 8, though, and that's what we're both using. Until I get the parts in my hands I won't be sure if what I'm considering will work, but my idea at the moment is to remove the stem from the inside of the caps that come with these keyboards, make a hollow and / or a hole on the back side of the hardwood caps I make, and fix the stems in those. Does that sound reasonable?
Cash is a lot easier to spend if it's done in dribbles & drabs over time. That way, you never have to see the total if you don't want to. ;D As far as time goes, I am semi-retired, and I have it. Spending time learning about, and making something new is the best time spent.
I'm sorry for the loss of your friend Nate. I lost a friend right after we graduated HS. May the remembrances of your friend never fade, and may his memory bring a smile to your face for all of your days.
Peace,
Dave
I keep running across "tenkeyless", and am unclear of it's meaning yet.
"The letters you typed don't match the letters that were shown in the picture."
9 tries so far to get past the junk-yard dog.
I still have a long ways to go to read through this thread. Thank you for your generosity throughout, I keep running across "tenkeyless", and am unclear of it's meaning yet. Wikipedia doesn't even have a page for it, and that seemed like the opportunity was made for you.
From time to time, I use askii / unicode glyphs such as ©, €, ¥, ®, ™, °, and especially, ☮. There are a couple of ways to enter them into documents including the use of one of a number of available applets, by copy / paste, or by using some keyboard gymnastics to key them in that make your hands play Twister with each other. I keep an OpenOffice document containing the ones I use close by & copy / paste. I've read where you guys keep certain keys open for macros. Could I use a few macro keys for this purpose? What do you all do with your macros?
☮ Dave
So I found this 14mm square paper punch (http://www.thepunchbunch.com/square.htm) (available at scrapbooking stores, and online, generally less than $10). It requires a fair bit of force to punch through the card-stock, but it works, and produces a nice square hole, and the switches mount just about perfectly.
Unfortunately, the throat on the punch wasn't deep enough to punch a hole more than an inch or so from the edge of the card... not enough for our purposes. So I ripped the punch apart and jury-rigged a deeper throat with some tape, some "magic putty", and a plastic ruler.
(Attachment Link)
I was unaware that water jet could get down under the max spec in the corners
You are both right, of course, and the advice you give is sensible. It's just that in some ways, I'm not very sensible. My parents were both born before the depression, and both were quite frugal. We all learned to be frugal, too. My grandfather, a master of thriftiness had little stashes of neatly ordered bits of this and that, all stored in one out building or another around the farm. When he needed something, he made it rather than buying it, and I picked up on that. I enjoy making something that I want or need from the discards and cast-aways of others. An exchange student from Hungary who stayed with us for two academic years told friends that my then 10 year old son & I were "stuff makers from garbages". It was said with admiration, and it stuck.
While most of us have both traits, some lean more towards goal orientation while others are more process oriented. Arriving is almost a disappointment because it means the end of that journey, and to me, it's the journey that holds my interest. In the end, I may well contact The_Beast with my layout for a quote. While finances are a concern, it's not so much that I couldn't budget enough to pay a contractor to make the two I'd want. I'd very much like to purchase a laser cutter, and it's within the realm of possibility, but our furnace needs some work, as does the car, and those things are probably a higher priority. I just enjoy working on what some might call tedious little jobs. I've recently taken early retirement, though I still work some. That's given me more time to do the kinds of things I like doing. Most of those things are things about which I might have said that I would rather do it myself.
Cutting the holes a bit small, and filing them to spec is what I was thinking, too. In aluminum, the job wouldn't even be too awful slow. I'd turn on The Dead or Pink Floyd or Yes, switch into right brain activity, fall into a zen-like state, and loose all track of time until it was finished.
The simple fact is you probably just can't do it well enough by hand.
To the pain.
I am trying a new approach for prototyping boards by mounting the base of the switch almost as if it is a PCB, ie drilling round holes in the plate and gluing the switch base to it. 4mm hole for the round bit, 1.5mm per pin (but you may need to make these larger for metal plates in case of accidental contact).
That way you can open up the switch easily and only need basic drilling skill to make the plate. Most (all?) MX switches use the same base and contact design, so you can change the stems and springs without having to remove the bases.
Downside is it may be hard to line up the switches exactly 90 degrees, but I'll try using a ruler against one edge when putting in a row / column of switches (depending which way the stagger goes for the particular design). Other downside is I don't have a drill press and I find it hard to drill without the bit "wandering" at the start.
My first attempt will be on 4mm acrylic. I may try making "channels" for the matrix wiring and diodes so you can cover them easily (flush underside) without needing to make a case. I also want to try LED edge lighting for overall backlighting :)
I love "GeekHacking"!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5RS4qEA.gif)
/i am inigo montoya...
Thanks, metalliqaz; I was hoping to hear that. I'm a few steps away from that point yet, but it feels like I'm heading in the right direction. As will be obvious to many folks around here, this layout was pretty strongly influenced by the Truly Ergonomic keyboard. I still have lots of time to refine before any actual work starts. I made an offer which the seller accepted, so I ordered 3 of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/271225181823?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/271225181823?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649) keyboards for the Cherry MX black switches, touchpads, and anything else I might find. They should be here later this week. Same seller has them in white cases with white keycaps.
I haven't gone looking for a CAD program with which to make the DWG file yet. This is a raster drawing, not a vector which is why the diagonal lines are fuzzy. I want to learn to make my own, but suggestions on which CAD program to use, or how to use it to get what I'm aiming for are welcome.Show Image(http://www.meadowcroft-dyeworks.com/images/forrums/boomerang_button_layout.jpg)
These are also Photoshop sketches that I made to help me communicate the direction in which I'm headed. My son modified my case shape and came up with this much nicer one.Show Image(http://www.meadowcroft-dyeworks.com/images/forrums/boomerang_no_legend.jpg)
Here it is with it's primordial legend. I'll be grateful for your critiques, and suggestions. It has a fair bit of room for improvement.Show Image(http://www.meadowcroft-dyeworks.com/images/forrums/boomerang.jpg)
☮ Dave
PS; Wanna be the first person on my street with a ☮ key.
Cool idea. If your plate were metal, you might tap a center punch or a nail with a small hammer, or mallet to make very small divots at the precise center of the hole you want to drill. A drill press helps make perfectly plumb holes easier, but for small holes like 4mm, a hand drill will work just fine. If you were gluing the MX bottoms to metal, you choices of glues would be limited, but still doable.
With Acrylic, the mallet & center punch would make the little divot you need to start the drill in the right place, and keep it there, but there's a fairly great risk of cracking, or even shattering it. If you have a soldering iron, use the sharpest tip you have, you need just barely touch the acrylic with the hot gun to make it easier to keep your drilling spot on. An added benefit is that plastic to plastic bonds are a bit easier, even if they are different plastics.
If you can swing printing a plain paper pattern of your design, use something no bigger than 1mm diameter to poke holes at the very center of each of the holes you're going to drill to mark where the divots go. That's the first step in keeping your keycaps aligned properly. I think you're headed in the right direction in your use of a ruler to set each one as you cement it down. Plastic cements typically grab quickly, so unless you use something that's slower,
it might be best to cement one, align & set it, then move on to the next. If you have surplus acrylic after your plate is cut to size, check the corners for square, then cut a few to use in squaring your switches.
Around here, even seldom used, high quality second hand bench top drill presses go for < US $50. If you're near Helsinki, check this out (http://helsinki.fi.craigslist.fi/). Buying used stuff keeps it in service longer, is easier on the pocket book, and it's one less thing that has to be imported.
☮ Dave
1. Look at the slope of the case where your palms would rest. I think it would be very important to have something similar to a palm rest to be comfortable using.
I meant to put this dwg up a while ago, but here it is. I'd like very much for someone who's experienced with these to scrutinize it before someone finds any errors the hard way. This is the first time I've used a CAD program.Show Image(http://www.meadowcroft-dyeworks.com/images/forrums/boomerang_layout.png)
☮ Dave
ETA: There are several hidden layers in the dwg which depict keys, centers, dimensions, and margins. I hope you find something of use to you.
SP has ISO enters (although maybe not in stock), but how the hell are you going to get a reversed ISO enter?? :D You can't just flip it ^^ :confused:really, :confused: i think it just make plate(iso enter) upside down also, then upside down ISOenter and plug
Alright, good luck! :Dsir,birthday :thumb: JK.... :))
I doubt that they can make that key. For custom keys, they have to make a new mold which costs thousands of dollars.Thanks for the info, really just make mold ISO so expensive :-\
Thank you for that, Oobly. I'm going to have to work on the stabilizer business I can see now. I'll be making the keys for this keyboard, and the curved center keys are fairly important to the design. You can see it here (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40567.msg1102296#msg1102296).Maybe instead of stabilizers you can just use a lightly sprung switches with the internal contacts removed to further reduce friction points
☮ Dave
Right ;) therefore,i hope SP make for left side :))
if not i will edit again
:'( better, i bought topre :))Right ;) therefore,i hope SP make for left side :))
if not i will edit again
Yeah, SP can almost certainly make the mold for you, but it would cost at least $4000.
Maybe instead of stabilizers you can just use a lightly sprung switches with the internal contacts removed to further reduce friction points
I doubt that they can make that key. For custom keys, they have to make a new mold which costs thousands of dollars.
Yeah, SP can almost certainly make the mold for you, but it would cost at least $4000.yeah,very true ^-^
I suggest downloading one of the open source designs, then you can measure it. Phantom or GH60 should work.already sir,i download phantom.dxf how to edit sir on DrafSight? looks complex :confused:
I suggest downloading one of the open source designs, then you can measure it. Phantom or GH60 should work.already sir,i download phantom.dxf how to edit sir on DrafSight? looks complex :confused:
any tutorial make with photshop?:) actually i can edit design plate sir.jd/matt30 though not neat :-X
but i not sure they (laser cutting) workers understand :-\
Always sir,I've downloaded a lot sirI suggest downloading one of the open source designs, then you can measure it. Phantom or GH60 should work.already sir,i download phantom.dxf how to edit sir on DrafSight? looks complex :confused:
any tutorial make with photshop?:) actually i can edit design plate sir.jd/matt30 though not neat :-X
but i not sure they (laser cutting) workers understand :-\
Have you looked at this thread? GH CAD Resources Hub (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47744.0)
There is lots of good information there, as well as sample CAD files you can use to get started.
I suggest downloading one of the open source designs, then you can measure it. Phantom or GH60 should work.already sir,i download phantom.dxf how to edit sir on DrafSight? looks complex :confused:
any tutorial make with photshop?:) actually i can edit design plate sir.jd/matt30 though not neat :-X
but i not sure they (laser cutting) workers understand :-\
youtube has a large selection of how to videos. I would search there.link/keyword?:D
Probably language barrier :DI mean,i hard to learn the program(DS)
I'm real new to all of this, so bear that in mind as you read. I have never used a CAD program before. I chose DraftSight. Like any new software, it takes a little time to learn, but there are many tutorials for this application, and that's a big help. It's also true that the more software you learn, the more "intuitive" the next app is to you.On finally, i want making a lot design,so maybe should learn DS own,can you give me link youtube/keyword?
When communicating with math, there is no language barrier. A CAD program is basically a way to do that in that by using it's interface, you can manipulate the geometry and all the related calculations with a relatively minimal knowledge of the mathematics required. While CAD programs help you make illustrations which will help in human to human communication (one picture is worth a thousand words), their output is essential for use with laser cutters, plasma cutters, CNC routers, and so on. If you don't present a finished CAD drawing, you'll have to pay the laser cutter to do that. Not only can that get expensive, but the risk of error may be greater, especially when communication is difficult for one reason or another.
DraftSight allows you to manipulate the geometry by using your mouse. If there's an easy way to achieve the precision that's required using this method, I haven't found it. It also gives you a command line in the lower left corner which prompts you to make the next step. But if you want a line of a precise length, or a precise angle, or radius, using the command line is both relatively easy to learn, and extremely efficient.
Photoshop is primarily a raster drawing tool. That means that all your work is pixilated. If you try to enlarge or reduce dimensions, something is lost. You can test this by selecting the single row or column marquis tool to draw a 1px wide line across your canvas. Fill that marquis with a color that contrasts with the background color you used. What happens when you enlarge your image by varying amounts; be sure to look at an increase in image size by just 1 px. Zoom in as far as PS allows; what do you see?
PS does include a pen tool, and that, like the pen tool in Illustrator, is a vector drawing tool. Do the same experiment as above with a single line you draw with the pen tool. When you zoom into your vector drawing, what do you see then? I believe that as long as you don't rasterize it, you can save it as a vector. At best, though, the precision the laser cutter software needs is challenging to obtain in PS. It's like, you can drive a small nail into wood with the handle of a screwdriver, but a hammer makes the job so much faster, and cleaner. I'm also not sure if PS will save in a file format a laser cutter can read.
If this is about making just one drawing for a single keyboard design, then maybe it's not the best use of your time to learn a CAD program like DraftSight. If you like learning new stuff that can be applied in other projects later, then learning it makes a lot of sense. These drawings are relatively simple, too; there is no third dimension to deal with. Help is available in many places, including Geekhack. DraftSight also has it's own forum, although it can be a bit technical. YouTube has a large volume of tutorials for using DraftSight, and I learn most easily by watching other people.
Dave ☮
You're welcome, man. I should have thought to give you some links in my last message, so thanks for reminding me to do that. Try a couple of these::-X i not sure so complex,maybe i want learn to the point
YouTube - Beginning Tutorials (http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=draftsight+tutorial+beginner&sm=1)
YouTube - Templates (http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=draftsight+template&sm=12)
YouTube - Move & Copy Tutorials (http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=draftsight+move+copy&sm=12)
YouTube - Command Prompt (http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=draftsight+command+prompt&sm=3)
YouTube - Layers (http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=draftsight+layers&sm=12)
YouTube - Options (http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=draftsight+options&sm=3)
DraftSight Forum (http://www.eng-tips.com/threadminder.cfm?pid=1480)
Dave ☮
Related threads in GeekHack (http://draftsight site:geekhack.org)
Consider how complex Photoshop is. Imagine facing that for the first time without any experience with it at all. Now, ask yourself; aren't you glad you started learning it when you did? Remember when you first started learning Photoshop, if you were like me, the beginning was pretty slow, but even then, you were able to do some things with it. as you learn new tools in Photoshop, you continue to build on what you already know. Each time you want to do something, and follow a tutorial to learn that, you're adding new tools to your tool box, and understanding just that much more about it. So, what were you saying about the complexity of DraftSight again? :)) Come on, man; you can do it! The hardest part is the first few steps. :thumb:yeah,i just learning,looks not complex now, i edit 40% jdcp :D
All those links...just start at the beginning, and progress through them when there's something you wanted to know. I included those because they are grouped topics that you'll want to learn sooner than later; knowing those things will make your life easier.
Dave ☮
yasuo, I can help you with the designs, just not now, after new year for sure.thanks much MOZ,no problems,i will waiting it :)
I am trying a new approach for prototyping boards by mounting the base of the switch almost as if it is a PCB, ie drilling round holes in the plate and gluing the switch base to it. 4mm hole for the round bit, 1.5mm per pin (but you may need to make these larger for metal plates in case of accidental contact).
That way you can open up the switch easily and only need basic drilling skill to make the plate. Most (all?) MX switches use the same base and contact design, so you can change the stems and springs without having to remove the bases.
Downside is it may be hard to line up the switches exactly 90 degrees, but I'll try using a ruler against one edge when putting in a row / column of switches (depending which way the stagger goes for the particular design). Other downside is I don't have a drill press and I find it hard to drill without the bit "wandering" at the start.
My first attempt will be on 4mm acrylic. I may try making "channels" for the matrix wiring and diodes so you can cover them easily (flush underside) without needing to make a case. I also want to try LED edge lighting for overall backlighting :)
I love "GeekHacking"!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5RS4qEA.gif)
I'm planning to make a custom hardwired board pretty closely based on AcidFire's 70% ergodox design:Show Image(http://acidfire.ca/keyboard/BDY14319.jpg)
Since it isn't a split design, I'm just planning to wire it to a single Teensy or Arduino Micro and use hasu's firmware.
I read somewhere (I think in this thread) that it would make things easier for me if the matrix was somewhat like the Phantom or GH60.
Can someone give me a couple of pointers on how to find out how the Phantom is wired, or any other suggestions on how to wire up the matrix?
I suppose since the 70% ergodox layout is pretty different to the Phantom, it'd need a bit of tweaking to work.
Also, I'm wondering what material I should get the plate cut out of. I've been quoted about $85 for Stainless, $100 for Mild Steel, or $130 for Aluminum. I'm not too worried how it looks, to be honest. It's just a frame to hold the keys to me.
I'm planning to get it cut with so that I can bend over the front, back and sides so I don't need any kind of stand. Is this a feasible thing to do without any proper tools for bending the plate? I'd just be doing using pliers and a vice. It's a 1.5mm plate. I have no idea how hard it will be to bend 1.5mm metal.
I will tell you right now unless you have some good tools for this it will look like crap. If you want to do this without having to design a case my suggestion would be to put some bolts/screws through the corners and just use nuts on the bottom with some glued on rubber/felt/foot material of choice. I was in the US Navy for 5 years as an Aviation Structural Mechanic and currently work as a union Millwright (http://www.namillwright.com/what-the-hell-is-a-millwright/). My job in the Navy was working on the structural components, skin repairs, and hydraulic components. So I have some experience with bending aluminum (this from the Navy), mild steel, and stainless. Granted 1.5 mm isn't that thick unless you have at minimum a well equipped shop available it will be almost impossible to get it bent accurately, straight, and without scratching the crap out of it. Not saying you couldn't get it done without but if you are going to go to this much time and effort to make this type of keyboard at least make it look nice. My suggestion would be to find a shop that can do the laser cutting and the bends for you. If you are already spending this money for getting the plate cut it shouldn't be that much more to have them bend it as well.
Melvang
Hey everyone! Reading this thread has taught me a lot, however, I'm horrible at both math, and doing anything CAD related (took two semesters of CAD in high school...barely passed) Would somebody be interested in assisting me with making a .dwg for a Race plate? I'll gladly return the favor with beer/pizza/whatever you do with your money, money =D
Hey everyone! Reading this thread has taught me a lot, however, I'm horrible at both math, and doing anything CAD related (took two semesters of CAD in high school...barely passed) Would somebody be interested in assisting me with making a .dwg for a Race plate? I'll gladly return the favor with beer/pizza/whatever you do with your money, money =D
Shouldn't be a problem. I won't guarantee it will fit in the original case, however. The PCB itself is a very tight fit in the stock case, at least in mine. But at worst it would probably just mean some time spent with a file or dremel. :)
Where do you all get your measurements from? I want to design my own plate but wouldn't know where to start with all the spacing :P
I just started with existing plate designs, i.e. Phantom and Poker. :)
Interesting, may have to give this a shot. I've got access to a hackerspace with a laser cutter, will just have to learn how to use it.
Does anyone know where the stem of an ISO Enter is located? Centered vertically and on the short horizontal, or would that be too easy?
Here you go...
Maybe you found the answer, but I checked my ISO keyboard and the ISO Enter is just a 1.5 (top) + 1.25 (bottom) key, with the center of the switch aligned as highlighted here:Show Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1042331/Keyboard/Misc/ISOEnter.png)
Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
That dot is centered on the middle of the 1.25u dimension, right?
Just a few thoughts:
- The components in that DXF contain both the cutout and a surrounding key outline. You removed that outline leaving only the cutout, right?
Just a few thoughts:
- The components in that DXF contain both the cutout and a surrounding key outline. You removed that outline leaving only the cutout, right?
No I didn't :-[
I added a border, removed the outlines around the cutouts and still got errors, but saving the file as R24 (2010) DWG file solved the problem. Now I need to find how to change the units to mm it should be okay (now it's still a 285 x 95 inches plate ;D). Thanks for the feedback!
No I didn't :-[
I added a border, removed the outlines around the cutouts and still got errors, but saving the file as R24 (2010) DWG file solved the problem. Now I need to find how to change the units to mm it should be okay (now it's still a 285 x 95 inches plate ;D). Thanks for the feedback!
Oddly enough, saving the file as a .dxf seems to do the trick, the plate dimensions are now properly recognized.
One poker-sized 1.5mm thick steel or aluminium plate is around 90$ from bigbluesaw, 50$ each if you order 5-10 five of them. I think the price is halved if you order from frontpanelexpress, but they only cut aluminium, you'll have to use their design tool, and it's CNC, no water/lasercutting, so the corner radius of the switch cutouts might be an issue (perhaps 1mm radius if fine though).
What do you guys think about this ~76 key board?
Keyboard Editor Link (http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/##@@_y:1.5%3B&=Esc&=!%0A1&=%2F@%0A2&=%23%0A3&=$%0A4&=%25%0A5&=%5E%0A6&=%2F&%0A7&=*%0A8&=(%0A9&=)%0A0&=%2F_%0A-&=+%0A%2F=&=%60%0A~&=+&=-&=*&=%2F%2F%3B&@_w:1.5%3B&=Tab&=Q&=W&=E&=R&=T&=Y&=U&=I&=O&=P&=%7B%0A%5B&=%7D%0A%5D&_w:1.5%3B&=%7C%0A%5C&=7%0AHome&=8%0A%E2%86%91&=9%0APgUp%3B&@_w:1.75%3B&=Enter&=A&=S&=D&=F&=G&=H&=J&=K&=L&=%2F:%0A%2F%3B&=%22%0A'&_w:2.25%3B&=%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ABackspace&=4%0A%E2%86%90&=5&=6%0A%E2%86%92%3B&@_w:2.25%3B&=Shift&=Z&=X&=C&=V&=B&=N&=M&=%3C%0A,&=%3E%0A.&=%3F%0A%2F%2F&_w:2.75%3B&=Shift&=1%0AEnd&=2%0A%E2%86%93&=3%0APgDn%3B&@_w:1.25%3B&=Ctrl&_w:1.25%3B&=FN&_w:1.25%3B&=Alt&_w:6.25%3B&=&_w:1.25%3B&=Alt&_w:1.25%3B&=Ctrl&_w:1.25%3B&=Macro%201&_w:1.25%3B&=Macro%202&=0%0AIns&=Delete&=.%0ADel)
What do you guys think about this ~76 key board?
Keyboard Editor Link (http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/##@@_y:1.5%3B&=Esc&=!%0A1&=%2F@%0A2&=%23%0A3&=$%0A4&=%25%0A5&=%5E%0A6&=%2F&%0A7&=*%0A8&=(%0A9&=)%0A0&=%2F_%0A-&=+%0A%2F=&=%60%0A~&=+&=-&=*&=%2F%2F%3B&@_w:1.5%3B&=Tab&=Q&=W&=E&=R&=T&=Y&=U&=I&=O&=P&=%7B%0A%5B&=%7D%0A%5D&_w:1.5%3B&=%7C%0A%5C&=7%0AHome&=8%0A%E2%86%91&=9%0APgUp%3B&@_w:1.75%3B&=Enter&=A&=S&=D&=F&=G&=H&=J&=K&=L&=%2F:%0A%2F%3B&=%22%0A'&_w:2.25%3B&=%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ABackspace&=4%0A%E2%86%90&=5&=6%0A%E2%86%92%3B&@_w:2.25%3B&=Shift&=Z&=X&=C&=V&=B&=N&=M&=%3C%0A,&=%3E%0A.&=%3F%0A%2F%2F&_w:2.75%3B&=Shift&=1%0AEnd&=2%0A%E2%86%93&=3%0APgDn%3B&@_w:1.25%3B&=Ctrl&_w:1.25%3B&=FN&_w:1.25%3B&=Alt&_w:6.25%3B&=&_w:1.25%3B&=Alt&_w:1.25%3B&=Ctrl&_w:1.25%3B&=Macro%201&_w:1.25%3B&=Macro%202&=0%0AIns&=Delete&=.%0ADel)
Initially I thought it looked like the LongCat Project (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=43788.0), but obviously yours adds the number row back in and has the numpad on the right.
Regardless, I think it looks really fun. Basically a slightly more condensed Lightsaver.
Most of your keys that should be 1x1, are 1x1.5.
Corrected the design online : http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/layouts/2c02c25bb5a98ff0908edbf2aec75b39
There was some placement accuracy issues with the key cutouts in the plate, and the keys were not centered in general on the plate - check this version : https://www.dropbox.com/s/ofx6qmxg2yrgs2u/mechlayers_1n5v2.dwg?dl=0
Those boxes are the outside edges of the keycaps essentially. It is usually easier to index off the edges of where the caps will be to position the switch cutouts correctly. Before the file gets sent out to be cut, those extra lines need to be removed so that only the edges of the plate, switch cutouts and screw holes remain.
I use QCAD myself for this (tried Draftsight and didn't like it).
15.56mm on either side and 8.63mm top/bottom.
So all I need is some switches, some wire, some solder, and a teensy 2.0?
So all I need is some switches, some wire, some solder, and a teensy 2.0?
And diodes. But those are very cheap. IIRC the last time I got any, I ordered 300 and shipping still cost more than the diodes.
So all I need is some switches, some wire, some solder, and a teensy 2.0?
And diodes. But those are very cheap. IIRC the last time I got any, I ordered 300 and shipping still cost more than the diodes.
So all I need is some switches, some wire, some solder, and a teensy 2.0?
And diodes. But those are very cheap. IIRC the last time I got any, I ordered 300 and shipping still cost more than the diodes.
and stabilzers ...
Hi could someone please explain the difference between the square holes and those with nubs that I see in this thread? I assume they are both for cherry MX switches, but what do the different cut out dimensions achieve?
(http://i.imgur.com/85seSiC.png?1) (http://imgur.com/85seSiC)
Hi could someone please explain the difference between the square holes and those with nubs that I see in this thread? I assume they are both for cherry MX switches, but what do the different cut out dimensions achieve?
(http://i.imgur.com/85seSiC.png?1) (http://imgur.com/85seSiC)
Those cutouts provide clearance for the tabs on the upper half of the housing to allow you to remove the top half of the switch without desoldering the switch. This makes it much easier for spring and stem swaps on plate mount setups.
I know that the poker is usually mounted by the PCB, but by using smaller dimension holes and some standoffs it should be fine.
I am experiencing a problem with my sprit 60% pcb and maybe someone here could relate and diagnose what's the problem since I think it it related to matrix of the pcb.
The row 1 matrix compose of the following:
Q Tab A Z 1
This is what happens:
When I press 1, it registers q1
When I press q, it registers q tab
When I press tab, it registers a tab
Is this have something to do with the matrix? software? or firmware?
Apparently, it's the only row that is experiencing this problem.
I am experiencing a problem with my sprit 60% pcb and maybe someone here could relate and diagnose what's the problem since I think it it related to matrix of the pcb.
The row 1 matrix compose of the following:
Q Tab A Z 1
This is what happens:
When I press 1, it registers q1
When I press q, it registers q tab
When I press tab, it registers a tab
Is this have something to do with the matrix? software? or firmware?
Apparently, it's the only row that is experiencing this problem.
What sort of things have you tried to diagnose the problem? Off the top of my head, have you checked if the diodes are soldered in the correct orientation? Have you tried re flowing the solder of the switches in the column that's not working properly?
Those are my usual go to's when keystrokes aren't registering as intended. And the way you described what's happening (multiple keys being registered when only 1 key is being pressed) it seems that it might be the hardware problem moreso then the firmware (but I am not familiar with the software used to program sprit pcbs).
What's the point of all these keyboard designs? I mean, they all replicate the existing traditional QWERTY design, with the ridiculous staggered & asymmetrical key layout. Except for some of the exotic thumb key configurations, if I was to design a keyboard from scratch I'd make something genuinely better. The Ergodox (which I'm typing on right now) is a step in the right direction, would be almost perfect if it wasn't for the thumb clusters.