[IC] IRON165 by Smith + Rune (GB Dates/Times / FE Raffle Announced)

[lbaron]

Hi All, yes proto types have been ordered about a month ago.  They are getting close to finishing.  As for dimensions they are as follows: 12.58IN x 4.36IN.   Front height is 0.63IN.  Rear height is 1.18IN

[leovu]

Hot damn! Very interested

[leexy]

Quick update:

Vendors and Quantities

Standard Edition

We're very proud to announce we've partnered up with CannonKeys in the US, MyKeyboard in the EU, and ILUMKB in the AP/China market to handle all sales of the Iron165 SE.

What this hopefully means, and why we're so excited to work with these amazing stores, is that we should be able to offer not only a smoother buying experience, but also a higher quantity of boards than we initially thought possible.

USA - CannonKeys - Up to 100 boards
EU - MyKeyboard - Up to 50 boards
AP - ILUMKB - Up to 50 boards

price in SGD from ILUMKB?

[modeseven]

Wow. Interested. Down the rabbit hole...

[voxkey]

Hi everyone,

Just wanted to give a quick update regarding colors since there is some misinformation floating around and I've been asked many questions about this.

*** COLORS ARE NOT FINALIZED YET ***

The poll ONLY served as a way to collect information about the communities' preferences. While it will weigh heavily into our decision making, it is not the only source of feedback we've collected. We'll be making a final decision on colors once we've seen the prototypes and color samples.

More news on colors very, very soon 

[SUB01]

*praying for navy* btw any news on pricing? The post seems to show that the FE pricing is finalized but it implies the SE is not. Will it stay at 445 or are there hopes for a lower price/ price bracket?

[voxkey]

*praying for navy* btw any news on pricing? The post seems to show that the FE pricing is finalized but it implies the SE is not. Will it stay at 445 or are there hopes for a lower price/ price bracket?

We're hoping for this price, but until every single cost is realized, we can't say for certain. Quite a lot goes into making a keyboard that most people aren't aware of. Beyond the obvious, which is the manufacturing of the board and pcb, there are also misc costs like hardware, packaging, etc. Extras also have to be ordered to make sure we can fill every order with A-stock product. Then there's payment processing fees, freight, taxes, etc.

That's not to say we pulled these prices out of thin air either. They are based on proposed costs and expectations from every part of the supply chain. We just need to finalize the last of those details and lock in prices. The biggest part (manufacturing) has already been worked out, just the small stuff is left.

We're also keeping a close eye on the proposed tariffs as well.

[SUB01]

That must be really rough, wish you guys luck on that. Btw, two questions about the pcb: Does it support antighosting? Are there any widely available pcbs that fit the keyboard? I'm always worried with high end custom keyboards that I'll spill water on it and the keyboard just becomes a paperweight.

edit: Ty phylux for pointing that out. However, as there was nothing like a list of pcbs that would fit this board, I was just wondering how the designers would fullfill this goal.

[phlux]

That must be really rough, wish you guys luck on that. Btw, two questions about the pcb: Does it support antighosting? Are there any widely available pcbs that fit the keyboard? I'm always worried with high end custom keyboards that I'll spill water on it and the keyboard just becomes a paperweight.

Per the OP on replaceable parts:

What parts will be user-replaceable?

Our hope is that everything, except the case itself will be user-replaceable in some form or fashion. One of our main goals when designing this board was to make absolutely sure that no IRON165 will ever become a glorified paperweight.

[stuey138]

That must be really rough, wish you guys luck on that. Btw, two questions about the pcb: Does it support antighosting? Are there any widely available pcbs that fit the keyboard? I'm always worried with high end custom keyboards that I'll spill water on it and the keyboard just becomes a paperweight.

edit: Ty phylux for pointing that out. However, as there was nothing like a list of pcbs that would fit this board, I was just wondering how the designers would fullfill this goal.

The user replaceable aspect probably means that they'll offer the ability to purchase multiple pcbs and plates in the event that you brick a pcb, not that you'll be able to use commonly available ones. It's also possible that they'll use an interchangeable pcb design between the iron165 and 265 and so on later down the line such as how the Rama m6 has maintained the same pcb dimensions throughout its various renditions

[Puddsy]

That must be really rough, wish you guys luck on that. Btw, two questions about the pcb: Does it support antighosting? Are there any widely available pcbs that fit the keyboard? I'm always worried with high end custom keyboards that I'll spill water on it and the keyboard just becomes a paperweight.

edit: Ty phylux for pointing that out. However, as there was nothing like a list of pcbs that would fit this board, I was just wondering how the designers would fullfill this goal.

all mechanical keyboard are antighosting, it's the nature of the tech

[SUB01]

That must be really rough, wish you guys luck on that. Btw, two questions about the pcb: Does it support antighosting? Are there any widely available pcbs that fit the keyboard? I'm always worried with high end custom keyboards that I'll spill water on it and the keyboard just becomes a paperweight.

edit: Ty phylux for pointing that out. However, as there was nothing like a list of pcbs that would fit this board, I was just wondering how the designers would fullfill this goal.

all mechanical keyboard are antighosting, it's the nature of the tech

So it has some about of x-key rollover built in? Sorry for nub questions I don't know much about pcb design.

[Puddsy]

That must be really rough, wish you guys luck on that. Btw, two questions about the pcb: Does it support antighosting? Are there any widely available pcbs that fit the keyboard? I'm always worried with high end custom keyboards that I'll spill water on it and the keyboard just becomes a paperweight.

edit: Ty phylux for pointing that out. However, as there was nothing like a list of pcbs that would fit this board, I was just wondering how the designers would fullfill this goal.

all mechanical keyboard are antighosting, it's the nature of the tech

So it has some about of x-key rollover built in? Sorry for nub questions I don't know much about pcb design.

KRO is different than ghosting

most boards are 6KRO

[voxkey]

Prototypes are here!!!! Pics in the first post!!!!

[cijanzen]

Damn! Hard to believe those are photos and not more renders. Looks amazing!

[PotatoTM]

Wow plum ano turned out way nicer than I imagined, and copper less pink/shiny!

[Lil]

Sick, extremely tempted

Edit: Ne typing test avail?

[SUB01]

Damn. The renders weren't lying! I'm guessing the finish on the copper is not the finish you will be going for in the final models? If you ever want to sell the FE prototype for a reasonable price let me know.

edit: +1 request for typing test too please!

[voxkey]

Damn. The renders weren't lying! I'm guessing the finish on the copper is not the finish you will be going for in the final models? If you ever want to sell the FE prototype for a reasonable price let me know.

edit: +1 request for typing test too please!

The finish on the prototypes is what we are going with. We initially wanted polished copper, but it was far too expensive and risky to pull off.

Typing tests to come after the holiday!!!

[DuellM]

Damn Those finishes are smooth 

[steezkeez]

I prefer the flat/matte finish, gonna actually enter the raffle now largely because of that reason.

[BrainBunker]

I know these are protos, so I understand they won't be perfect, but I wanted to at least ask what your thoughts are on the small defects on the FE. I noticed the gaps around the copper base plate aren't very uniform, and the front edge seems to sit lower than the top case. Are these things that are likely to be fixed before the final product? I'll probably try for an FE regardless (it looks sexy AF and I'm a huge sucker for copper), but wanted to ask. Image shows the areas in question.

[voxkey]

I know these are protos, so I understand they won't be perfect, but I wanted to at least ask what your thoughts are on the small defects on the FE. I noticed the gaps around the copper base plate aren't very uniform, and the front edge seems to sit lower than the top case. Are these things that are likely to be fixed before the final product? I'll probably try for an FE regardless (it looks sexy AF and I'm a huge sucker for copper), but wanted to ask. Image shows the areas in question.

(Attachment Link)

Good eye there. The top and bottom aren’t actually screwed together and gaskets aren’t installed. We just wanted to get pics up as fast as possible.

We’ll be going over everything very, very closely and make adjustments where necessary. In fact, we’ve already made two adjustments/tweaks. We want these to be perfect.

[Solotov]

Really dig that purple SE. Please use this color 

[SUB01]

While we are asking questions about the FE prototype, I have a few more. The white on the FE is supposed to be e-white, but in a lot of the pictures they look grey. Is that just because of the inconsistent lighting? Also if you have the prototype pcb finished, can I have a measurement on the size of the switch pin holes? If you could measure 10 and average them, I can do some guess work to see if holtites/millmax/chineseknockoffmillmaxes will work.

[Puddsy]

While we are asking questions about the FE prototype, I have a few more. The white on the FE is supposed to be e-white, but in a lot of the pictures they look grey. Is that just because of the inconsistent lighting? Also if you have the prototype pcb finished, can I have a measurement on the size of the switch pin holes? If you could measure 10 and average them, I can do some guess work to see if holtites/millmax/chineseknockoffmillmaxes will work.

ewhite just looks like that, most boards i've seen with it aren't a perfect white, and tend to be more grey

and millmax sockets suck just solder em

[BrainBunker]

I know these are protos, so I understand they won't be perfect, but I wanted to at least ask what your thoughts are on the small defects on the FE. I noticed the gaps around the copper base plate aren't very uniform, and the front edge seems to sit lower than the top case. Are these things that are likely to be fixed before the final product? I'll probably try for an FE regardless (it looks sexy AF and I'm a huge sucker for copper), but wanted to ask. Image shows the areas in question.

(Attachment Link)

Good eye there. The top and bottom aren’t actually screwed together and gaskets aren’t installed. We just wanted to get pics up as fast as possible.

We’ll be going over everything very, very closely and make adjustments where necessary. In fact, we’ve already made two adjustments/tweaks. We want these to be perfect.

Oh I see, glad to hear you're aiming for perfect I'm excited for the GB to start!

[SUB01]

While we are asking questions about the FE prototype, I have a few more. The white on the FE is supposed to be e-white, but in a lot of the pictures they look grey. Is that just because of the inconsistent lighting? Also if you have the prototype pcb finished, can I have a measurement on the size of the switch pin holes? If you could measure 10 and average them, I can do some guess work to see if holtites/millmax/chineseknockoffmillmaxes will work.

ewhite just looks like that, most boards i've seen with it aren't a perfect white, and tend to be more grey

and millmax sockets suck just solder em

Can you tell me why they suck? I personally don't really see the downside to adding them. Also soldering is a pain, why bother when you don't have to? Especially for a board this expensive I want to be able to experience more than one kind of switch on it in the long run, as well as relube switches in the coming years. Unsoldering is super tedious if you don't have a pump.

[jimboytacos]

Damn. The renders weren't lying! I'm guessing the finish on the copper is not the finish you will be going for in the final models? If you ever want to sell the FE prototype for a reasonable price let me know.

edit: +1 request for typing test too please!

The finish on the prototypes is what we are going with. We initially wanted polished copper, but it was far too expensive and risky to pull off.

Typing tests to come after the holiday!!!

 It gonna lie, that flat proto color of iron isn't very appealing. It's almost like a lipstick Maybelline.
But I'll wait to see what the finished product looks like. Best wishes!

[CDKing]

Have you guys considered doing polished copper for the badge at least? Just seeing as it's a much smaller part.
Or do you think that would make the board look less cohesive?

[SUB01]

Damn. The renders weren't lying! I'm guessing the finish on the copper is not the finish you will be going for in the final models? If you ever want to sell the FE prototype for a reasonable price let me know.

edit: +1 request for typing test too please!

The finish on the prototypes is what we are going with. We initially wanted polished copper, but it was far too expensive and risky to pull off.

Typing tests to come after the holiday!!!

 It gonna lie, that flat proto color of iron isn't very appealing. It's almost like a lipstick Maybelline.
But I'll wait to see what the finished product looks like. Best wishes!

Meh I understand where you are coming from, and I mostly agree that the polished finish in the renders look better. However, it shouldn't be that hard to polish it yourself. Just an hour with some polishing cream, and even faster with a polishing belt and it should look pretty good. Just remember to clear coat it after or it will oxidize again. Even if I don't win the raffle, who am I kidding I won't win the raffle, I think I'll do that with the brass weight anyway.

Whatever the case, I think there is something more mature about the more muted appearance of this copper finish. I think people are just dissapointed that the prototype doesn't match the amazing renders exactly.

edit: btw do you know when the estimated delivery date is? I need to know when so I know what vendor to buy from.

[KaosJ]

hot as ****.
How many FE avail?

[eskimojo]

Show Image

hot as ****.
How many FE avail?

Founder's Edition

The Iron165 FE will be limited to 25 total serialized units, never to be made again. We will be handling the group buy for these directly. There will be a public raffle for 10 total group buy spots.

[CDKing]

 Meh I understand where you are coming from, and I mostly agree that the polished finish in the renders look better. However, it shouldn't be that hard to polish it yourself. Just an hour with some polishing cream, and even faster with a polishing belt and it should look pretty good. Just remember to clear coat it after or it will oxidize again. Even if I don't win the raffle, who am I kidding I won't win the raffle, I think I'll do that with the brass weight anyway.

Whatever the case, I think there is something more mature about the more muted appearance of this copper finish. I think people are just dissapointed that the prototype doesn't match the amazing renders exactly.

edit: btw do you know when the estimated delivery date is? I need to know when so I know what vendor to buy from.

Was actually considering doing exactly that, assuming I can get in on the raffle.

Any recommendations for a good clear coat product? lol

[SUB01]

 Meh I understand where you are coming from, and I mostly agree that the polished finish in the renders look better. However, it shouldn't be that hard to polish it yourself. Just an hour with some polishing cream, and even faster with a polishing belt and it should look pretty good. Just remember to clear coat it after or it will oxidize again. Even if I don't win the raffle, who am I kidding I won't win the raffle, I think I'll do that with the brass weight anyway.

Whatever the case, I think there is something more mature about the more muted appearance of this copper finish. I think people are just dissapointed that the prototype doesn't match the amazing renders exactly.

edit: btw do you know when the estimated delivery date is? I need to know when so I know what vendor to buy from.

Was actually considering doing exactly that, assuming I can get in on the raffle.

Any recommendations for a good clear coat product? lol

Protectaclear seems not bad if a bit pricy, but I can't really say since I haven't used it myself. Rustoleum clear coats are usually my go to and its pretty cost effective.

[Puddsy]

While we are asking questions about the FE prototype, I have a few more. The white on the FE is supposed to be e-white, but in a lot of the pictures they look grey. Is that just because of the inconsistent lighting? Also if you have the prototype pcb finished, can I have a measurement on the size of the switch pin holes? If you could measure 10 and average them, I can do some guess work to see if holtites/millmax/chineseknockoffmillmaxes will work.

ewhite just looks like that, most boards i've seen with it aren't a perfect white, and tend to be more grey

and millmax sockets suck just solder em

Can you tell me why they suck? I personally don't really see the downside to adding them. Also soldering is a pain, why bother when you don't have to? Especially for a board this expensive I want to be able to experience more than one kind of switch on it in the long run, as well as relube switches in the coming years. Unsoldering is super tedious if you don't have a pump.

soldering is piss easy, mill max sockets are a pain if you install them incorrectly, and they have a ridiculously short wear life so you can't change them out ad infinitum, whereas with soldering it's just a skill activity

i have a tremor and i've soldered plenty of boards and they've all turned out fine

if you're really worried about it just pay someone else to do it

[KingOfMemes]

While we are asking questions about the FE prototype, I have a few more. The white on the FE is supposed to be e-white, but in a lot of the pictures they look grey. Is that just because of the inconsistent lighting? Also if you have the prototype pcb finished, can I have a measurement on the size of the switch pin holes? If you could measure 10 and average them, I can do some guess work to see if holtites/millmax/chineseknockoffmillmaxes will work.

ewhite just looks like that, most boards i've seen with it aren't a perfect white, and tend to be more grey

and millmax sockets suck just solder em

Can you tell me why they suck? I personally don't really see the downside to adding them. Also soldering is a pain, why bother when you don't have to? Especially for a board this expensive I want to be able to experience more than one kind of switch on it in the long run, as well as relube switches in the coming years. Unsoldering is super tedious if you don't have a pump.

soldering is piss easy, mill max sockets are a pain if you install them incorrectly, and they have a ridiculously short wear life so you can't change them out ad infinitum, whereas with soldering it's just a skill activity

i have a tremor and i've soldered plenty of boards and they've all turned out fine

if you're really worried about it just pay someone else to do it

I used millmax for one build and it was the biggest pain in the ass even though it worked as expected. Millmax sockets are an unbelievabe a waste of money and time. That day I found out that if I ever truly wanted to replace switches, I'd rather just go over an 1800 keyboard with a $5 plastic desoldering pump 10 times over than install a free set of millmax sockets on a single 40%

[SUB01]

While we are asking questions about the FE prototype, I have a few more. The white on the FE is supposed to be e-white, but in a lot of the pictures they look grey. Is that just because of the inconsistent lighting? Also if you have the prototype pcb finished, can I have a measurement on the size of the switch pin holes? If you could measure 10 and average them, I can do some guess work to see if holtites/millmax/chineseknockoffmillmaxes will work.

ewhite just looks like that, most boards i've seen with it aren't a perfect white, and tend to be more grey

and millmax sockets suck just solder em

Can you tell me why they suck? I personally don't really see the downside to adding them. Also soldering is a pain, why bother when you don't have to? Especially for a board this expensive I want to be able to experience more than one kind of switch on it in the long run, as well as relube switches in the coming years. Unsoldering is super tedious if you don't have a pump.

soldering is piss easy, mill max sockets are a pain if you install them incorrectly, and they have a ridiculously short wear life so you can't change them out ad infinitum, whereas with soldering it's just a skill activity

i have a tremor and i've soldered plenty of boards and they've all turned out fine

if you're really worried about it just pay someone else to do it

I'm not worried, I've soldered plenty of things in the past, but its just one of those activities I just hate doing. I hate the fumes, I hate cleaning up after lead with my baby cousin around, and I hate the clunkiness leaving me wishing I had a third arm. The last point is less applicable to keyboard soldering because everything is held in place, but still. I'm more interested in knowing where you heard about the short life span of millmax sockets. If that really is the case I might look into alternatives. Also, how do you install a millmax socket incorrectly? I was under the impression that you just take them and push them into the pin holes. I hope I don't come off as skeptical or defensive, I just want to know where you are coming from.

[eskimojo]

I was under the impression that you just take them and push them into the pin holes.

Mill max sockets still require soldering, and you have to be careful not to get solder inside the socket itself. It's a time consuming business and fairly intricate.

[SUB01]

I was under the impression that you just take them and push them into the pin holes.

Mill max sockets still require soldering, and you have to be careful not to get solder inside the socket itself. It's a time consuming business and fairly intricate.

I did a bit more research, it seems like if the millmax sockets don't fit properly, you have to solder them like you said. If anyone was curious, this was the chinese knockoffs I was talking about: https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.189.7db854b8S0MMvR&id=550047547721&ns=1&abbucket=17#detail.
Took some chinese friends, mad googletranslatorfu, and inference to find those lol. The page has pictures of people using them in pcbs, but from what I can gather the socket tube seems to be slightly thicker allowing for better mounts. I'll test them in a few months with this keyboard when I get the chance.

edit: as for price they are 10 sockets for 10rmb which using current conversion is 0.14usd per socket.

[KaosJ]

Show Image

hot as ****.
How many FE avail?

Founder's Edition

The Iron165 FE will be limited to 25 total serialized units, never to be made again. We will be handling the group buy for these directly. There will be a public raffle for 10 total group buy spots.

Thanks duderosky

[Rise]

Absolutely can't wait to see this board go live!

[DuellM]

Anyone know which white keyset is on the FE Prototype?

[Clo_0lD]

Anyone know which white keyset is on the FE Prototype?

Pretty sure it's minimal

[DuellM]

Okay thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sleepybrett]

No split spacebar support *fartsound*

[hottrout]

That is a thing of beauty for sure.

[Pach]

This is phenomenal. Sad that I won't be able to buy this because my group buy is in October and I probably won't have funds till later. I think the FE would look better as Fe to match the standard element capitalization, but that's just my opinion. Keep up the good work!

[stuey138]

This is phenomenal. Sad that I won't be able to buy this because my group buy is in October and I probably won't have funds till later. I think the FE would look better as Fe to match the standard element capitalization, but that's just my opinion. Keep up the good work!

Where are the umbra x iron165 renders

[onefivenine]