Looks very good; I could really learn a thing or two from you!
That said, I think what's more important is that you show us how you fixed the internals. Hand wiring seems straightforward (if not that easy to do for noobs like me), but presumably you identified which spots on the keyboard matrix/ controller to solder to, and that information would be extremely helpful to many people who want to mod their 11900s.
Awesome job as always. Thanks for sharing and thanks for not being happy with the status quo and doing something about it!
I love this mod, can't wait to see more pictures of Bob's new home!
This topic at DT also has some good info
http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/iso-to-ansi-t155.html
Excellent mod! I eagerly await the continuation.
This is my kind of mod, very nice! It is about time these PCBs learned they are there for our benefit, not the other way round.
OK, you do have to be ashamed. It's worse than anything I have ever produced in my clumsy career. :p
But then again, you were doing something much more ambitious... can't quite criticize.
You could have saved a lot of trouble if you would have found yourselfShow Image(http://www.neotec.co.jp/etc/photo/compg8011802lpaja.jpg)
G80-11802LPAJA
Owning a couple of these myself and knowing the joys of the layout, you sir are a champion. Curious though, did you make a Round 5 order? I've wanted a nice set of caps for my 11900 since I got it and finally broke and ordered a customized set of Round 5 for it. I figured it would be the only group buy that would properly cater to the layout... too bad I joined too late to get actual 1u mods for the bottom... but I managed :p
Carbon Fiber Vinyl! (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/APPPTestPlace/publishtest/?PC_Z7_RJH9U52300NAF0IUGB18VL2414000000_assetId=1114285847665)
Is this the keycon board?
Awesome use for it if so.
Oh and what wire should I be using? Can I use wires from a CAT5 cable?That will work.
The Vinyl looks great infiniti, I know on a 11900 you don't see much of the PCB through they keys anyways, but that will be sure to add some class to the board! (also dat carbon fiber cred)
Cat5 cable should be just fine. The wires in a keyboard are carrying max 5V at a max of 500mA, definitely the realm of operation of Cat5 cable.
what does that paper say?
wait, how do you cut traces with a dremel? It's like impossible to be so precise. What setting did you use, and what attachment?
If you're wondering, I am also thinking about laying down my own traces. I have a Deck Legend that is not fully working. Only ONE column of keys is not responding. And I can't figure out where the trace is broken. So I am thinking of using wire. but If I could do something professional like laying down a trace, I'd be happy to do it; I just don't know how so I am looking at your thread every day to learn.
Lock Keys (i.e. Caps Lock, Scroll Lock, Num Lock) -- blue stem with clear spring Space Bar -- linear gray with stock spring Escape and Pause/Break -- black stem with clear spring Stabilized Keys (Backspace, Enter, NumPad +, NumPad 0, NumPad Enter) -- black stem with black spring Fist Keys (left is Menu and right is right shift) -- clear stem with clear spring (fist bump...get it? :))) All others -- black stem with 55g gold spring |
50-50 mix of Krytox GPL 206 grease and Krytox VPF 1506 oil used on all switches excluding the lock keys (i.e. Caps Lock, Scroll Lock, and Num Lock) as the lubricant may inhibit the switch’s click mechanism |
PCB-mount, clipped, and lubed |
Metallic Silver |
Lower case housing dampened with 0.8mm rubber tape Modified Bottom Row from 1-1-1-6-1-1-1-1 to 1.5-1.5-7-1.5-1.5 Modified 2.25u Left Shift to 1.25u Left Shift and 1u Windows Key Modified the 2u Right Shift to 1u Menu and 1u Right Shift Modified the F Cluster to preserve the two-tone color theme from F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 F9 F10 F11 F12 to F1 F3 F5 F7 F9 F11 F2 F4 F6 F8 F10 F12 |
Worst mod, Bob's not on it. Instead you've got some silly purple bot :P
Just kidding, great job! I'd love to see a typing video. But thank you for all the pictures, a great guide for later projects :D.
The epoxy has been set and is curing. I'm just waiting for it to harden a bit more before cleaning off more residue.
(Attachment Link)
The epoxy has been set and is curing. I'm just waiting for it to harden a bit more before cleaning off more residue.
(Attachment Link)
Thanks for documenting your mod. I'm thinking of doing something similar to some G80s I have which have a mostly ANSI layout but with an ISO enter:
https://i.imgur.com/k4h1IC0.jpg (https://i.imgur.com/k4h1IC0.jpg)
I'd really rather have the standard ANSI enter key and the backslash/pipe key in the right place. I had been trying to come up with a way to do this when I found your thread, and this looks like a better idea than anything I had come up with.
I do have just one question though: what kind of epoxy did you use to fill the holes in the PCB? There seem to be quite a few products out there which might work, but if you've found one that works for the exact project I'm thinking of on an almost identical PCB I'd love to know what it is.