Author Topic: [Build Log] The Still Unamed Split TKL - Status: Building (Read 9830 times)

infiniti · « **on:** Tue, 31 January 2017, 09:18:47 »

Ever since I switched to mechanical keyboards, the one thing I kinda missed was the split of my Microsoft Natural Multimedia Keyboard and Natural Ergonomic Keyboard 4000. I wasn't sure if I'd like it so I couldn't commit to buying an LZ ErGO or a VE.A...so I decided to build one and try it out!

Considerations in design were:

it had to be TKL form factor

I use the arrows a lot in my day-to-day computing
moving down from a fullsize keyboard and losing the numeric pad was a small price to pay to alleviate my neck and shoulder pains; I can always get a dedicated numeric pad should the need arise

it had to split but join together to look like a TKL
the layout as close to ANSI as possible save for the split space bar

something about an old dog and new layouts
all my key sets support ANSI

I ended up with this design...

...and this layout:

I've been reading, planning, designing, and gathering parts since May / June 2016.

Quick rundown of parts:

The case was cut from clear acrylic (still has the backing paper):
plastic hexagon spacers with m3 threading to build the sandwich case
Cherry MX Clear switches with MX Blue springs and transparent abostudio switch top covers
Transparent stabilizers from a local bro
Enablers from TechKeys
m3 rivet nuts like this to mount the feet to the bottom of the case
m3 socket button head screws
ribbon cable for wiring
Teensy 2.0

So far I've:

soldered all the diodes to the enablers
soldered the enablers to the switches
added resistors and LEDs to the Caps Lock and Scroll Lock switches
hot glued the switches to the plate layers

To do next:

study the wiring of the phantom so I can wire it like a phantom and use the Easy AVR USB Keyboard Firmware and Keymapper to make my life easier
~~find~~ make time to do the above )

Edit: fixed image sizes

infiniti · « **Reply #1 on:** Tue, 31 January 2017, 09:19:25 »

Reserved for final assembly pictures.

joey · « **Reply #2 on:** Tue, 31 January 2017, 09:21:52 »

Good work so far! Look forward to the final thing

infiniti · « **Reply #3 on:** Tue, 31 January 2017, 09:32:15 »

Quote from: joey on Tue, 31 January 2017, 09:21:52

Good work so far! Look forward to the final thing

Thanks, joey!

Oh yeah this "thing" is still unnamed but I have a list going for possible names:

ErgoDivorce
Diforce
D.Vorce
The Banana...coz it splits!

)

Cocopah · « **Reply #4 on:** Tue, 31 January 2017, 09:56:18 »

Looking good. Thats alot of FN's.

)

infiniti · « **Reply #5 on:** Wed, 01 February 2017, 01:49:47 »

There may have been easier ways to go about this but I didn't want to have to bake my own firmware and I've already used the Easy AVR GUI for my KMAC2.

Anyway, I poked around the config files of Easy AVR and added a layout to the phantom config for the The Still Unamed Split TKL:

Loading it came out like this:

Fixed the key map on the Normal layer:

Work-in-progress FN layer:

Work-in-progress FN2 layer:

I took note of the row and columns that Easy AVR was expecting from the keys and ended up with this diagram for rows and columns (note to self, add wiring):

To Do:
- transcribe the matrix row and columns in reverse since when I do the soldering, I will be looking at the keyboard from the bottom

Edit: fixed image sizes

infiniti · « **Reply #6 on:** Wed, 01 February 2017, 01:53:36 »

Quote from: Cocopah on Tue, 31 January 2017, 09:56:18

Looking good. Thats alot of FN's. )

I needs to be functional brah!

)

chintimin · « **Reply #7 on:** Fri, 20 April 2018, 19:42:12 »

I find this super-interesting, as I am a die-hard on both the things this satisfies, from split ergonomics and also F row and nav cluster and not having a numpad there to run into your mouse hand. If you want, I can show you my two-keyboard setup which I emulate what you're doing here with - I really want to see how this turns out. I've seen a ton of NEARLY-normal split TKL designs, but they always gotta screw with stuff. If I can ever buy a metal plate-split-TKL, I will be on it in a heartbeat. I may take a couple of ebay keyboards and a jigsaw and do a handwire. Yours will still be nicer. <3

TD22057 · « **Reply #8 on:** Fri, 20 April 2018, 22:23:12 »

Looks fantastic. Would you mind posting the case CAD files?

Thanks,
TD

infiniti · « **Reply #9 on:** Tue, 07 August 2018, 09:03:36 »

Revive!

The switches wouldn't hold so I tried hot glue which didn't hold and then moved on to the kragle (super glue). I regret using superglue since it bled between the plate layers and left a white haze. Then I soldered up the matrix.

Next steps:

figure out where the cable joining the halves will go...probably out the top so I don't have to worry about tucking them into the case when the halves are joined
solder the matrix to the teensy
assemble the case

~~~ ~~~ ~~~ ~~~ ~~~

Quote from: chintimin on Fri, 20 April 2018, 19:42:12

I find this super-interesting, as I am a die-hard on both the things this satisfies, from split ergonomics and also F row and nav cluster and not having a numpad there to run into your mouse hand. If you want, I can show you my two-keyboard setup which I emulate what you're doing here with - I really want to see how this turns out. I've seen a ton of NEARLY-normal split TKL designs, but they always gotta screw with stuff. If I can ever buy a metal plate-split-TKL, I will be on it in a heartbeat. I may take a couple of ebay keyboards and a jigsaw and do a handwire. Yours will still be nicer. <3

I'd love to see your setup! A metal plate-split-TKL? With enough time and funds...soon^tm

~~~ ~~~ ~~~ ~~~ ~~~

Quote from: TD22057 on Fri, 20 April 2018, 22:23:12

Looks fantastic. Would you mind posting the case CAD files?

Thanks,
TD

Pardon the late reply, Here's the cutting files. Please let me know if you need them in any other format.

Note: The bottom 6mm layer needs to be adjusted for the ribbon cable between the two halves

2018-08-07a ALL LAYERS - X12.cdr (37.1 kB - downloaded 87 times.)

2018-08-07a ALL LAYERS - X18.cdr (587.97 kB - downloaded 87 times.)

2018-08-07a ALL LAYERS.dxf (1220.5 kB - downloaded 86 times.)

2018-08-07a ALL LAYERS.svg (40.07 kB - downloaded 89 times.)

nachie · « **Reply #10 on:** Mon, 24 September 2018, 14:22:02 »

Very cool project. I don't think I have seen a split TKL before

MatchstickMan · « **Reply #11 on:** Mon, 24 September 2018, 15:41:09 »

I can't believe I haven't seen this yet!

If you put a num pad on the left side, you'll have exactly the layout I'm shooting for! How are you getting the two halves to talk to each other? My project is on hold currently due to life happening, but that was one of the big unknowns I didn't have answered yet. Though, I was mostly ignoring it because I didn't see a real need for layers when you've got a Full Sized board, so I was just planning to have separate USB cables for each half.

Nlight · « **Reply #12 on:** Wed, 26 September 2018, 13:24:13 »

Quote from: MatchstickMan on Mon, 24 September 2018, 15:41:09

How are you getting the two halves to talk to each other?

Well, teh easiet way is to use an hdmi breakout board, as HDMI has enough pins to allow direct connection. The other method is to use I believe an I/O extender chip from Microchip, the extender chip is linked to the controller through 2 wire cable, so a mini jack cable and connectors are enough , it uses the I²C protocol. I don't know anything more about it.

MatchstickMan · « **Reply #13 on:** Wed, 26 September 2018, 13:32:27 »

Quote from: Nlight on Wed, 26 September 2018, 13:24:13

Well, teh easiet way is to use an hdmi breakout board, as HDMI has enough pins to allow direct connection. The other method is to use I believe an I/O extender chip from Microchip, the extender chip is linked to the controller through 2 wire cable, so a mini jack cable and connectors are enough , it uses the I²C protocol. I don't know anything more about it.

Right. I've seen a lot of the smaller boards use I2C to talk to each other. I'm just not sure if that scales to a full-sized 104 key board or not, let alone that I don't have a solid grasp on how it really works. But you're right, the other alternative would be an HDMI cable and just wire everything back to a big-ass Teensy controller or something like that.

I've got a pair of ProMicros that I could also use and just flash them individually, but I wanted something a bit more elegant than that. Haha...