Author Topic: Cherry MX Keyboards for a RealForce User  (Read 3686 times)

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Offline kbthocking

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Cherry MX Keyboards for a RealForce User
« on: Sat, 16 November 2024, 18:08:53 »
Hi everyone,

I've been enjoying my RealForce 87-U 55g over the years, but I'm now on the hunt for a second keyboard that's compatible with Cherry MX switches, so I can experiment with third-party keycaps.
Can anyone recommend a well-built, reliable Cherry MX mechanical keyboard that's comparable in quality to my RealForce? In terms of aesthetics, I have a preference for a retro-inspired light color scheme.

Mechanical keyboards that I'm currently considering:
  • Leopold FC750RBT
  • Filco Majestouch 2 TKL or Filco Majestouch 3 TKL

The Leopold comes with nice PBT keycaps, but it seems like a waste as I plan to replace them with third-party keycaps right away. Its Bluetooth feature and removable USB cable are nice touches, but they are not that important for me, especially since I've heard some reports of intermittent Bluetooth connectivity issues. On the other hand, Leopold's use of sound dampening foam is interesting, although I care more about tactile feedback than sound. I also like that the Leopold uses the Step Sculpture 2 profile, which is very similar to Cherry profile and should provide better compatibility with third-party keycaps. There's also the Leopold FC750RBT V2 that comes with Cherry MX2A switches with newly designed barrel-shaped springs and pre-lubrication (except for the MX2A Blue switches).

The Filco comes with ABS keycaps, which I honestly won't feel bad about replacing them. I've also had the chance to try out a friend's Filco keyboard, and I liked its solid build. However, I'm a bit concerned that the Filco's OEM profile keycaps might not match well with third-party Cherry profile keycaps. While the Costar stabilizers are known for their excellent stability, I've also heard that they are prone to breaking when replacing keycaps. Fortunately, it seems that I can order replacement Costar stabilizer inserts from WASD Keyboards according to this forum, although their website has been down for a while.
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts/cherry-mx-keycap-stabilizer-insert-2pcs.html

I'm also still trying to determine the keycap sizes (the "U" measurement) for Leopold and Filco TKL US Layout keyboards.
I've found a keycap size chart online, but it doesn't include Leopold & Filco keyboards.
https://maxkeyboard.com/mechanical-keycap-layout-and-size-chart.html

As for switches, most people would probably recommend Cherry MX Brown to Topre users. However, I found Cherry MX Browns to be pretty boring and it's actually my least favorite Cherry MX switch. I prefer Cherry MX Blacks and Blues, although clicky switches may become a little annoying at times. Cherry MX Reds are acceptable, but they are a little too light for my taste and I sometimes find myself "double typing" on them (not due to any fault with the switches themselves). I don't have any experiences with the recently releases MX2A switches, which seem to have borrowed some improvements from Chinese switches, but they don't have a long track record yet.

BTW, I know some people might consider Leopold, Filco, and Cherry as dinosaurs from a decade ago, especially with the rise of cheap Chinese mechanical keyboards. But I'm looking for a tool rather than a toy (aside from having fun with customizing keycaps, of course!) and I don't care about features like QMK, RGB Lighting, or hot-swapping. I want a keyboard that is reliable without gimmicks. That being said, I'm open to recommendations for other not made in China TKL or full-size keyboards from other brands, or even custom keyboards that might be up my alley.

Thanks in advance!
« Last Edit: Sat, 16 November 2024, 18:16:12 by kbthocking »

Offline oTurtlez

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Re: Cherry MX Keyboards for a RealForce User
« Reply #1 on: Mon, 25 November 2024, 12:15:17 »
I've been a pretty dedicated Topre user for the last decade, but every now and again I break out a Cherry board.

My daily boards have been an 87u Type S, or an FC660C. The build quality of the Realforce stuff isn't really the best out there but it's certainly on par with (what I remember) Filco / Leopold.

Long ago I acquired a Phantom built in a Filco case, and that offered a very early version of hot swapping for cherry switches, as well as a customizable firmware and all that. I rebuilt and enjoyed that board with 62g ergo clears and haven't changed it since. Lesson learned is that a good tactile switch in a plate mounted setup is going to yield the feel you want.

I recently built another board and opted to use a non-OEM switch for the first time, Gateron Baby Kangaroo V2's, and have to say the initial feel of the keypress is VERY similar to that of a 45g Topre switch. The biggest difference is the bottom out is much more firm compared to the cup rubber of Topre. If you want to stick with Cherry brand, I'd DIY your own ergo clears and assemble them into any reputable board. Definitely avoid browns, and reds will be too light for you.
TOO BAD FOR YOU

              Phantom 62g MX Whites    

Offline zslane

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Re: Cherry MX Keyboards for a RealForce User
« Reply #2 on: Tue, 26 November 2024, 10:48:57 »
Maybe try and find a NovaTouch second hand? If you stumble upon a NorbaTouch (a NovaTouch with a Norbauer aluminum case) grab it as fast as you can.

311087-0
(NorbaTouch with /dev/tty keycaps)

Offline HungerMechanic

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Re: Cherry MX Keyboards for a RealForce User
« Reply #3 on: Tue, 26 November 2024, 12:58:34 »
A few things

1.

-The characteristics of the keycaps that come with the keyboard do not matter a great deal, if you plan to replace them.

Whether they are Cherry-profile, OEM, or SS2, it won't matter since you will simply be able to replace them all with any MX-compatible keycaps.

In other words, you don't need to replace like-for-like, same-for-same. You can replace Filco's OEM-profile with any profile, same with Leopold.

The only real issue is the stabilizers. Cherry-profile stabilizers are much more accepting of different keycaps heights. I find, coversely, that the Filco stabilizers are more discriminating. The Filco doesn't like some Cherry/SS2 keycaps, and is drastically affected by crooked [usually PBT] keys.

Filco uses Co-Star stabilizers. Honestly, if you intend to use aftermarket keycaps, it is probably going to be easier to go with the Leopold. Or Varmilo. Or Ducky. Etc... It is Filco that is the outlier here.


2.

-Filco, Leopold, and the other major pre-soldered pre-built keyboards in that price-range are more similar than different. You are almost talking about the same keyboard, by today's standards.

Yes, they have differences. But they pale in comparison to the diversity you receive or build with custom keyboards in that price-range.

Personally, I believe that Filcos are an extremely reliable keyboard that offer an adequate typing experience. They have elevated risk of 'ping' and 'rattle' thanks to the metal plate, somewhat hollow case, and Co-star stabilizers when using tactile switches. But it can reduce a little over time.

The new Filco 2SC, for example, seems amazing. It has Cherry-style double-shot keycaps and coloured cases.

The Filco is something you issue to a government-appointed transcriptionist who works 8-hours per day. It should last for 10-20 years, at least. It is a reliable piece of equipment for real work. But it is not the easiest to customize.



The Leopold is also built very solid. It tended to offer similar to Filco quality, but at a lower price-point. Its double-shot PBT keycaps were a key feature back-in-the-day, and people appreciated the detachable cable.

Now, though, these 'features' are often found with the cheapest 'custom' keyboards. And I found that the tactile typing experience with the Leopold might have been a little lacking when compared with Filco. Maybe it was just a mediocre batch or two of MX Browns. I suppose these are important points when comparing two, similar pre-built keyboards.



----

In your case, if you are looking for an interesting tactile typing experience, none of these pre-built boards are likely to offer that.

You can only choose, for example, between MX Brown and MX Clear. One is too light for you, the other is likely to be a bit heavy / tedious. [Unless you can get one with the new Cherry MX 'Ergo Clear.']

There were limited runs of Leopolds with SP Star Purple. So a Cherry Ergo Clear or SP Star Polaris Purple pre-built might work for you. May not be easy to find.


If I were in your shoes, I would be looking at a decent custom hotswap board to use as a chassis. Then, experiment with medium-tactiles and maybe some heavy-tactiles. Since you are planning to use aftermarket keycaps anyways, this might be the best route for you.

With AliExpress sales [although 11.11 has ended] and various BF deals right now, this might be the perfect time to pick up a custom chassis. And sample switches. Then, you could find out what you really want to type on.

Trying out different flavours of very-similar pre-built keyboards like Leopold and Filco for their tiny selection of Cherry MX switches is not a cheaper approach, and will cost a lot more in the long-run.


So far, the NovaTouch with MX-compatible stems seems like the best solution, as it will give you a known quality that meets requirements. I have typed on a 55 G Realforce modified with MT3 keycaps, and it was an excellent experience.

Otherwise, if you need a reliable factory keyboard, try to find a Filco or Leopold with Ergo Clears or something similar.


Offline HungerMechanic

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Re: Cherry MX Keyboards for a RealForce User
« Reply #4 on: Tue, 26 November 2024, 13:26:13 »
I would like to add, in addition to what I wrote above, that the Leopold is a perfectly-fine chassis for resoldering new switches.

I have two Leopolds where this operation has been performed, and they are still working.

The Leopold would be preferable to the Filco for this purpose, since the Leopold uses Cherry-style stabilizers. It will be easier to use aftermarket keycaps with the Leopold.

The keyboard that is currently in my profile-picture is a Leopold FC900R PD that had custom-built Ergo Clears soldered into it. The keycaps are GMK Honeywell. So that very keyboard would be something that meets your listed requirements.

You would only want to go this route if you know exactly what you want to type on. So, during this sale season, it may be a good idea to pick up some samples of Cherry MX Ergo Clear or Cherry MX Purple switches, along with some Gateron Baby Kangaroo for comparison. If you like any of those, you could choose to solder them into a Leopold.

Offline kbthocking

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Re: Cherry MX Keyboards for a RealForce User
« Reply #5 on: Thu, 28 November 2024, 11:58:16 »
I recently built another board and opted to use a non-OEM switch for the first time, Gateron Baby Kangaroo V2's, and have to say the initial feel of the keypress is VERY similar to that of a 45g Topre switch. The biggest difference is the bottom out is much more firm compared to the cup rubber of Topre. If you want to stick with Cherry brand, I'd DIY your own ergo clears and assemble them into any reputable board. Definitely avoid browns, and reds will be too light for you.

Thank you!
The Ergo Clears look interesting and I'm also considering the new clear-top Nixie Black switches. I'd probably mod the FC750RBT with these switches some day.
What about custom keyboards? I'm new to this and honestly, I'm not sure where to start. Are there any custom keyboard PCB & case that prioritize good ergonomics, are reliable and have a proven track record? Many custom keyboards seem to have limited production runs, which means they're often discontinued before long-term user feedback is available.

Offline kbthocking

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Re: Cherry MX Keyboards for a RealForce User
« Reply #6 on: Thu, 28 November 2024, 12:02:43 »
Maybe try and find a NovaTouch second hand? If you stumble upon a NorbaTouch (a NovaTouch with a Norbauer aluminum case) grab it as fast as you can.

(Attachment Link)
(NorbaTouch with /dev/tty keycaps)
Thank you! Nice setup!
Unfortunately, I've missed the NovaTouch and the RealForce RGB.  :( I'll also have to replace their case since they have a gamer look and I'm going for the retro aesthetic.
Norbauer housing is interesting, but they are super expensive.

Offline kbthocking

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Re: Cherry MX Keyboards for a RealForce User
« Reply #7 on: Thu, 28 November 2024, 12:14:10 »

In other words, you don't need to replace like-for-like, same-for-same. You can replace Filco's OEM-profile with any profile, same with Leopold.

The only real issue is the stabilizers. Cherry-profile stabilizers are much more accepting of different keycaps heights. I find, coversely, that the Filco stabilizers are more discriminating. The Filco doesn't like some Cherry/SS2 keycaps, and is drastically affected by crooked [usually PBT] keys.

Filco uses Co-Star stabilizers. Honestly, if you intend to use aftermarket keycaps, it is probably going to be easier to go with the Leopold. Or Varmilo. Or Ducky. Etc... It is Filco that is the outlier here.


Thank you!
I've done a little more research after posting and noticed that some people had to sand their keycaps to fix the binding issue for keys with the Costar stabilizers. I definitely wanted to avoid that.





In your case, if you are looking for an interesting tactile typing experience, none of these pre-built boards are likely to offer that.

You can only choose, for example, between MX Brown and MX Clear. One is too light for you, the other is likely to be a bit heavy / tedious. [Unless you can get one with the new Cherry MX 'Ergo Clear.']

There were limited runs of Leopolds with SP Star Purple. So a Cherry Ergo Clear or SP Star Polaris Purple pre-built might work for you. May not be easy to find.


If I were in your shoes, I would be looking at a decent custom hotswap board to use as a chassis. Then, experiment with medium-tactiles and maybe some heavy-tactiles. Since you are planning to use aftermarket keycaps anyways, this might be the best route for you.


The Ergo Clears look interesting and I'm also considering the new clear-top Nixie Black switches. I'm wondering if I should get the FC750RBT and mod it with these switches some day.
As for custom keyboards, I'm new to this and honestly, I'm not sure where to start. Are there any custom keyboard PCB & case that prioritize good ergonomics, are reliable and have a proven track record? Many custom keyboards seem to have limited production runs, which means they're often discontinued before long-term user feedback is available.
I also prefer PCBs that need soldering instead of hot-swap PCBs due to better reliability and more layout options (some soldered PCBs support both ANSI and ISO layouts). Some keycap sets have special ISO enter keys so I'd like to be flexible when needed.

Offline HungerMechanic

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Re: Cherry MX Keyboards for a RealForce User
« Reply #8 on: Mon, 02 December 2024, 13:19:09 »
1.

Yes, Co-Star stabilizers on the Filco will definitely pose a problem for custom keycap experimentation, making Leopold the better choice for you.


2.

As for custom switch longevity:

The only custom switch I have personal experience with over a 2+ year period at this time are SP Star Meteor Orange [Cherry-like light-tactile] in a soldered build.

Interestingly, Leopold thought that SP Star Purple and Meteor Orange were reliable enough to solder into their factory keyboards.

I also have 2 keyboards soldered with hand-built Ergo Clears that have been in operation for 2+ years. It appears to be a reliable modification.



Both Cherry Ergo Clear and Cherry MX Purple will give you options for Cherry medium-tactiles. The official Cherry Ergo Clear at the most established of these, I think. And the new Nixies are definitely an option. [You might want to try some nice TX springs in them, maybe about 65 G 14mm (S) or regular 63.5 G Spirit.]

There is also something called Cherry MX Orange, which I think is a medium-weight linear.*


3.

As for custom keyboards, I can only speak from personal experience. I enjoyed the NCR-80 affordable custom for its Cherry-inspired design and its lightness. It happens to have a good typing angle for some. It feels like plastic and sounds like a hollow milk carton, but it is supposed to. As the Cherry boards did.

I have been using soldered NCR-80s for 2+ years, and they have held up, despite being meant to be cheap. You may have to make minor adjustments to it [fit and finish] to get them to close up nicely or have the legs be even.

I personally think that the NCR-80 has good typing angles, at least for where I place them. YMMV.

The flaw of the NCR-80 is that it is either plateless, or uses CF / FR4 plates. The former is awkward for tactiles, I think, but that is subjective. The plates aren't anything special. The NCR-80 doesn't use a sophisticated mounting set-up, and I prefer gasket or especially top-mount.

Also, the hotswap variant has a north-facing PCB, which may cause interference with Cherry-profile on R3. [Not everybody notices this interference.] I believe that soldered PCBs are south-facing, which is the correct alignment.

It is very easy to move an NCR-80 around your workspace, and many people have noted its handiness in that regard.

Variants of the NCR-80 are available in ISO.


The KBD8X MKII from KBDFans [designed by AI03] was known to be a very reliable keyboard that could handle multiple de-soldering/re-soldering operations. I don't know what the MKIII is like, but if it is like the MKII, then it is very reliable.

I think the KBD8X MKII is comfortable, and has good typing characteristics. [It is top-mount, IIRC]. The only flaw is that there are no adjustable feet. So you may have to use risers if the typing angle doesn't work for you. This is the case with many keyboards.

Another issue with the KBD8X is that it uses a heavy weight at bottom. So I think it is meant to stay in one place.


So that's from personal experience. The NCR-80s and KBD8X MKII lasted 2+ years so far.





Now, if I were to speak outside of personal experience, there are other recommendations I could give. You want something that is entry-level and simple. Not too much of an investment, but known to be reliable.

My first recommendation would be a Keychron V or Q series in TKL or 100%. I think they come fully-assembled [even the barebones]. You can do things to improve them, but they should be almost ready out-of-box.

They are meant for people entering the waters of custom keyboards. Ready-to-go, but modifiable. You can order extra mod parts, I think. You can adjust dampening, improve stabilizers, things like that.

They are hotswap. So maybe somewhere down the road it will fail. However, the reason I am recommending it is that people have been buying Keychrons for entry-level customs for more than a year now. And although I am sure some of them fail, Keychron is a real company. They should be able to eventually fix / mail a replacement if you order from your national distributor.

They are regularly stocked, and many people use them. So we have a pretty good sample size and timeline here. And it's not a huge catastrophe if your Keychron V6 fails 3 years down the road, for example, at least compared with more expensive decisions.



Keychrons are on sale right now at some retailers.




So there are affordable TKLs and 100% keyboards that have some track record of reliability and vendor service. [Although, still, dealing with Keychron and similar are worse than dealing with a very local storefront.]

If worst comes to worst, at least you can salvage your stabilizers, keycaps, and switches from a broken keyboard. So you don't lose your whole investment.



4. Now let's talk about the other option you were planning. De-soldering, and then re-soldering a Leopold.

It's very do-able.

But it requires skill. Leopold in particular at least used-to solder the switches in pretty robustly. So you have to have a steady and consistent hand to desolder. Then you have to carefully solder the new ones in, having already taken the time to improve the stabilizers while the switches were desoldered.

I have two Leopolds that have been adjusted in this fashion. See here:


https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=103412.0



I should say, like Filco, there will be a lot of ping with stock Cherry tactiles in one of these cases. I think the cases amplify or encourage ping somewhat. They use metal plates, I believe.

You can reduce ping by hand-lubing the switches. The springs can be 'bag-lubed' using special spring-lube. It is very important to lube the springs. Even if you are using stock Cherry switches, for reliability, they still benefit from at least the springs being lubed.

Adjusting the dampening inside a Leopold may help with the ping somewhat. Something you can do while it is disassembled for soldering. You can also foam the spacebar. Maybe dampen the stabilizers with pads, somehow.

Unlike the Keychron, the Leopold are not designed for modding. So there are no aftermarket parts. I suppose you could replace the stabilizers with other plate-mount stabilizers, but the included ones were decent by 2018-standards. There are also no additional dampening materials or plates available, unlike with Keychron. But you can dampen a Leopold by other means.

Anyway, resoldering improved Cherry switches into a Leopold is certainly an option, and should be reliable. Will require considerably more work and skill than final assembly on a Keychron, I wager.







*For custom switches, you might also consider the Gateron G Pro 3.0 series. They are a standard, common mainstream choice. The G Pro 3.0 Yellow are highly-rated medium-weight linears. The G Pro Brown are a little more tactile than MX Brown.

They are affordable, and can become very cheap during sales. The G Pro Brown 3.0 don't benefit much from hand-lubing, as they are factory pre-lubed. I think that the similar Jupiter Browns may have slightly better factory-lube / materials. The Jupiter Banana [top-bump tactile] are also extremely common and highly-rated.

Some other linears that people seem to use without problems: Gateron Ink Black, Gateron Oil Kings [no work needed on those], WS Yellow, KTT Strawberry, AKKO Cream Yellow Pro.

In tactiles: Durock Anubis, Gateron Baby Kangaroo, AKKO Lavender Purple Pro, Gateron Root Beer float and the budget Everfree Grayish, Durock Medium Tactile. I haven't heard complaints about [hand-lubed] KTT Matcha.
The U4T also seem to improve with factory revisions. In theory, the Zealio V1R [smooth Ergo Clear] should be reliable. Currently on-sale. I think Varmilo once soldered the Zealio V2 into their enthusiast factory-keyboards.

If you find deals today, maybe pick up sample packs of 1-10x switches [that is to say, up to ten switches], to test later in hotswap. Or find a cheap $5 acrylic switch-testing holder somewhere. Save you tons of money in the long-run.

Offline HungerMechanic

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Re: Cherry MX Keyboards for a RealForce User
« Reply #9 on: Mon, 02 December 2024, 17:39:11 »
I also made a list of switches that should be reliable, based on people using them for a while w/o much complaint.

Linears:

KTT Rose

Gateron KS-3 Milky Yellow (def. should be reliable)

Leobog Graywood (extremely popular)

KTT Kang White



Tactiles:

AKKO POM Brown (I haven't heard of them breaking...but they are Browns. Not medium-tactiles.)

Durock Cerulean (been around for a while)

Durock Lilac Tactile (been around for a long time, widely-sold). On sale at Cannonkeys.

Maybe Shogoki medium-tactiles, as they've been around for a while. Need lube, though.

TTC Bluish White (punchy medium-tactiles, I have not heard complaints)

WS Light Tactile (it's a medium)

BSUN Hutt

SP Star Magic Girl (Dark)




BTW, I know I wrote above that the AKKO Lavender Purple Pro should be reliable. Unfortunately, there are reports of problems with them and the similar Cream Blue Pro.

Maybe it's because there is such a large sample size with those [they are cheap and popular]. But I can't firmly state that those two should be problem-free.

In any event, I asked around, and most switches in current production should not pose longevity issues as compared with Cherry.




Other people:


If I were to add to these lists, based on what other people were writing, there are other tactiles I could add.

People recommend switches that they enjoy, and there are some that have been in using for 6 months to 2 years or longer. In general, there are no egregious reliability complaints with them.

So I will list some largely-available and liked medium/heavy tactiles, most of which are still available.


Gateron Beer
Gateron Azure Dragon

TecSee Purple Panda

Gateron Quinn

Momoka Shark

Kailh Polia

Lubed Cotton Candy switches from LoobedSwitches

BSUN Pine and Raw

Jerrzi Violets, maybe.

AKKO Creamy Purple Pro are well-liked, but too new to really know.

Durock Ice King [leaf ping, though]

Moyu Black

Chosfox & JWICK Voyager

JWICK T1 V2 [very budget, so order extra in case you bend a few mounting poles. Benefit a lot from L + F. As with U4T, maybe use something different for the spacebar.]

Naevy V2 [fine, but may have difficulty going into the plate, initially]



I wish I could recommend Gateron Mini i, as they are great for typing, but I read one report of chattering issues.


Methods:

This is the quickest possible survey. Because seasonal deals are still in-effect, I wished to provide a list of popular tactiles and some linears, most of them in use for 6 months to 2+ years, that don't have widely-reported reliability issues. It is from my own experience in seeing recommendations from others.
« Last Edit: Mon, 02 December 2024, 18:38:32 by HungerMechanic »

Offline HungerMechanic

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Re: Cherry MX Keyboards for a RealForce User
« Reply #10 on: Tue, 03 December 2024, 09:38:00 »
I received an interesting comment elsewhere as to the longevity of custom switches. This person wrote:

Quote
I started the hobby 5 years ago, and in my experience, only Cherry switches were consistent enough after 5 years. I have had Gateron, Kailh, SP-Stars (1st batch), JWK, C3, Tecsee, Everglide, Outemu, and Glorious, and only Gateron, Everglide, Tecsee & Kailh have withstood more than 3 years without more than 30% of a 80pcs batch having switch chatter or doesn't actuate. It is to note that I don't type on them that regularly as I use them in rotation+swap them out from keeb once in a while+daily drive Topre, so definitely not near the 1 million actuation mark. Retuning the faulty ones by reapplying lube evenly and adjusting the switch leaves didn't work. Meanwhile, all my Cherry switches, including those that were mechanically broken in 10k actuation, were fine and I have zero switches with switch chatter/actuation issues. Frankenswitches with Cherry base and parts from other brands also still work fine.

That said, I have not tried and use any of the new switch brands like Haimu or HMX, and I didn't purchase any new switches from the brands I mentioned above after 2022, so there could be improvements to durability that I am unaware of. Hope this helps.

So...Cherry reliable. You can use Cherry switches directly, or use their parts in various ways. Should be okay.

Gateron, unsurprisingly, reliable. They are very experienced, and can produce valid switches at different price points now.

[Not all Gateron switches are created equal, but their main lines are in widespread use, with few complaints.]

OP might look into TecSee Purple Panda. It's a popular tactile switch, and TecSee may be a reliable manufacturer.


But there is another consideration:

Quote

fwiw it's usually the microcontrollers that fail, not the switch. 99% of the time if the switch fails it's due to poor electrical design of the board, running too much or not enough current through the switches


The keyboard itself is more complex than the switches. MX switches are relatively simple. So, as OP wanted, you have to focus on getting a reliable board.

I would add that switch failure is not such a big deal if you are using hotswap - at least you can replace the switches in a working hotswap board.

If soldering, stick to a safer brand of switches. [Cherry, Gateron. Tecsee seems to have a good reputation. And some people believe that certain Kailh designs are inherently reliable, such as BOX linears.]

Maybe it is possible to find out some reliable examples of custom keyboards that are in current production. We don't have as much information.



Offline HungerMechanic

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Re: Cherry MX Keyboards for a RealForce User
« Reply #11 on: Tue, 03 December 2024, 13:59:21 »
So here's a summary so far:

"Reliable" switches:

-Cherry
-Many Gateron
-Possibly TecSee
-Some Kailh designs are believed to be inherently reliable


Reasonable keyboard kits:

-Keychron hotswap TKLs and 100% [V and Q-series.]

-Maybe NCR-80 [it is very basic, though]

-KBD8X MKII. If similar, then the new KBD8X MKIII is reliable.


I asked around and received the following additional suggestions:

-Neo80. This is a very competitive neo-budget custom that offers what formerly were mid-range features at an entry-level price.

It is very easy to disassemble and mod, and additional parts are still available.

-The Cycle8 has also been suggested, having similar features to the Neo80. However, I will have to look into its track record.


I also received additional confirmation that the Keychron line is generally reliable, and might post about it later.