There are only 15 units available
Oooooooh man, I just don't know what color to get....... :confused:
Oooooooh man, I just don't know what color to get....... :confused:
I feel yah. Can't decide between silver and red.
Will we be able to add winkey blockers to our order?
Oooooooh man, I just don't know what color to get....... :confused:
I feel yah. Can't decide between silver and red.
I need to try to pick one that I have a keyset that matches it. Or I could always buy another keyset...gahhh.
I want a color that matches WoB but isn't black. :confused: :rolleyes: And I don't need another red kustom... Would WoB go well with silver?
Cyrillic would be sweet on red too...
Cyrillic would be sweet on red too...
Cyrillic would be sweet on red too...
My only Cyrillic set is Miami Odessa Limited. Which would look sweet on silver, but not on red. Another reason to get silver, you say? Now to just submit the form...so much commitment...
Am I going to have the only gray order? lol
Everyone will be happy to know that I've submitted an order. Whew.
Everyone will be happy to know that I've submitted an order. Whew.
Grabbing a drink in celebration and relief.
There are pictures of the gray in the Orion thread.
About the blockers, I'm waiting for an answer
6/15 ordered so far :)
There are pictures of the gray in the Orion thread.
If I had the $$$ I'd order grey, so don't feel totally left out lol
Any comments about how the typing experience is on these from folks who got the R1 board?
Do the keys feel crowded at all?
PCB only possible.
I am using mine daily on my PC, it's in hardware dvorak with blank cherry POM off a DAS II and white backlighting. I will be changing the side LEDs to white as well.Any comments about how the typing experience is on these from folks who got the R1 board?
Do the keys feel crowded at all?
All I know is that it's one of Photoelectric's favourite boards. But I'll let them comment further when they get the chance. :)
Yes, you all made it. 10/15 :)
Oh god, why did I buy that Clack? If I saw this a few days ago..
Oh god, why did I buy that Clack? If I saw this a few days ago..
Sell your clack to me. Easy.
Oh god, why did I buy that Clack? If I saw this a few days ago..
Sell your clack to me. Easy.
$300 shipped, no problem. I'll even throw in some gold foil.
"Interested in assembly service option? *
It's about $70-$80 includes switches, soldering, LEDs, stabilizers, rubric"
Forgive my noobiness, I'm new to this. So for ~$380 + shipping I'll have a complete KB without having to do any hardware assembly myself?
Just so you know, these won't be shipped for at least 1-2 months from now. I also won't invoice until at least at the end of April
All spots are taken now. Anyone after dragonken besides those 2 I reserved for orders will be on hold. If they don't order it'll go to the first 2.
I would take up one of the spots if either of them two is not ordering ;D
Sherryton wouldn't take my money on the first LightSaver buy, and now it looks like I'm too late for this one :(
I placed an order anyways just in case. If it doesn't come through there is always LZ-MX FE ;)
elton, any reason why only 15 orders?
elton, any reason why only 15 orders?
elton, any reason why only 15 orders?
I think they only have 15 PCBs left?
If you want ALPS 60%, they have Duck Mini V2 leftovers for sale...http://duck0113.tistory.com/89
After showing them the amount of interest, they might make more....
Let me know about the assembly, as I can get it assembled here if interest isn't high enough just need to know so I can order my switches.
The blockers are available at $3.50 per piece. Only silver is available though, but if there are more than 100 orders, only black blockers can be added.
If you want them and have ordered already, let me know how many blockers you want.
The blockers are available at $3.50 per piece. Only silver is available though, but if there are more than 100 orders, only black blockers can be added.
If you want them and have ordered already, let me know how many blockers you want.
Are the blockers 1unit pieces only? Also, how do they attach? Do they fit into the plate to secure them? Are there any pictures that show this in some detail? So many questions. :p
The blockers are available at $3.50 per piece. Only silver is available though, but if there are more than 100 orders, only black blockers can be added.
If you want them and have ordered already, let me know how many blockers you want.
Are the blockers 1unit pieces only? Also, how do they attach? Do they fit into the plate to secure them? Are there any pictures that show this in some detail? So many questions. :p
They're 1x pieces. They should be screwed onto the PCB from the switch holesShow Image(http://kbd4u.com/web/product/big/kbd4u_20.JPG)
The blockers are available at $3.50 per piece. Only silver is available though, but if there are more than 100 orders, only black blockers can be added.
If you want them and have ordered already, let me know how many blockers you want.
Also assembly service is only $65 and it includes switches, LEDs, soldering, stabilizers, and lubing and stickering. <---Very good price.
Switches included are MX Red, Brown, Blue, and Black.
I would be interested if you can get more than 15!
The blockers are available at $3.50 per piece. Only silver is available though, but if there are more than 100 orders, only black blockers can be added.
If you want them and have ordered already, let me know how many blockers you want.
Also assembly service is only $65 and it includes switches, LEDs, soldering, stabilizers, and lubing and stickering. <---Very good price.
Switches included are MX Red, Brown, Blue, and Black.
psst, I heard kmiller8 is assembling at half that price.
Edit: Well OK, I guess he can't assemble 10 Lightsavers, but I think some people should put his service to good use.
Assembly service information is 4 posts above
Also the blockers includes screws
The blockers are available at $3.50 per piece. Only silver is available though, but if there are more than 100 orders, only black blockers can be added.
If you want them and have ordered already, let me know how many blockers you want.
Are the blockers 1unit pieces only? Also, how do they attach? Do they fit into the plate to secure them? Are there any pictures that show this in some detail? So many questions. :p
They're 1x pieces. They should be screwed onto the PCB from the switch holesShow Image(http://kbd4u.com/web/product/big/kbd4u_20.JPG)
You have no idea how many questions I ask True Customs for you guys then. LOL
I guess you will have to tell me the layout you want and where you want your switches.
This will get a bit tedious...lol
There is going to be an order template for the assembly service, thankfully.
Also assembly service is only $70 and it includes switches, LEDs, soldering, stabilizers, and lubing and stickering.
Switches included are MX Red, Brown, Blue, and Black.
Also assembly service is only $70 and it includes switches, LEDs, soldering, stabilizers, and lubing and stickering.
Switches included are MX Red, Brown, Blue, and Black.
Hi,
Will they provide MX Clear option with additional charge?
Regards,
Ken
I'm feeling tempted, but my wallet says no. :(
I'm feeling tempted, but my wallet says no. :(
I'm in the same boat. Girlfriend is getting on my case...
Awaiting answers for using alternative switches and if you can ship them your own.
Little update for you all who wanted switches other than what are offered.
They can't get MX White or MX Clears or other hard to obtain switches. They also can't take your switches. It'll take too long and the process will be complicated..
Sorry..
I can build one with someones own switches if they would like. I can't do everyones at once, but I'll do one at a discount and decide where to go from there. Send me a PM if interested.
Cheaper than what it'll cost to get it assembled + shipped from America if you're Canadian :D
My understanding is the default order doesn't include switches unless you get assembly service.
Cheaper than what it'll cost to get it assembled + shipped from America if you're Canadian :D
I thought you want one?
Read the thread...lol
Read the thread...lol
Ye I did, it's fine :P No sky blue anyway and again can't afford right now fml T_T maybe later
Read the thread...lol
Ye I did, it's fine :P No sky blue anyway and again can't afford right now fml T_T maybe later
I thought you just won some SC2 tourney??!?! You should be breaded! :D
Read the thread...lol
Ye I did, it's fine :P No sky blue anyway and again can't afford right now fml T_T maybe later
I thought you just won some SC2 tourney??!?! You should be breaded! :D
Ha! Breaded... Good term...
Looks like the prototype has just been made :)
http://duck0113.tistory.com/90
Looks like the prototype has just been made :)
http://duck0113.tistory.com/90
I'm doing it after this group buy
The Eagle and Viper won't be ready until May anyways. Or maybe longer if they decide to produce more lightsavers...
I'm doing it after this group buyOne at a time is enough to make me broke... :p
The Eagle and Viper won't be ready until May anyways. Or maybe longer if they decide to produce more lightsavers...
Looks like the prototype has just been made :)
http://duck0113.tistory.com/90
Some news..
TrueCustom designed a new PCB for the Lightsaver V2, so it'll take about a month longer to be ready. Around end of May.
It'll support more layout options. Also the 15 limit has been increased to 30. Actually I have 30 sets ordered right now. :D Perfect if you guys plan on staying in.Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/288/934/189/29656160ae3c1cf3dbeb1040c7ba97db.jpg)
Some news..
TrueCustom designed a new PCB for the Lightsaver V2, so it'll take about a month longer to be ready. Around end of May.
It'll support more layout options. Also the 15 limit has been increased to 30. Actually I have 30 sets ordered right now. :D Perfect if you guys plan on staying in.Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/288/934/189/29656160ae3c1cf3dbeb1040c7ba97db.jpg)
My perfect layout
Some news..
TrueCustom designed a new PCB for the Lightsaver V2, so it'll take about a month longer to be ready. Around end of May.
It'll support more layout options. Also the 15 limit has been increased to 30. Actually I have 30 sets ordered right now. :D Perfect if you guys plan on staying in.Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/288/934/189/29656160ae3c1cf3dbeb1040c7ba97db.jpg)
There are 20 sets from US..do you guys want a proxy?
I know it's a dumb question. Can we swap the springs after soldering the switches to the pcb board? Do we have to desolder it?
http://www.originativeco.com/collections/keyboards/products/lightsaber
Just find originative is selling light saver. but it's ver 1(seems) and more expensive than this gb.
http://www.originativeco.com/collections/keyboards/products/lightsaber
Just find originative is selling light saver. but it's ver 1(seems) and more expensive than this gb.
http://www.originativeco.com/collections/keyboards/products/lightsaber
Just find originative is selling light saver. but it's ver 1(seems) and more expensive than this gb.
Originative is also not exactly super reliable. this thread has more information but spending that kind of money with them is very much a buyer beware situation (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55955.0)
I may need to change my address too depending on when these ship.
Some news..
TrueCustom designed a new PCB for the Lightsaver V2, so it'll take about a month longer to be ready. Around end of May.
It'll support more layout options. Also the 15 limit has been increased to 30. Actually I have 30 sets ordered right now. :D Perfect if you guys plan on staying in.Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/288/186/191/27e3c7920d7891afd5f98318c8ae2c3c.jpg)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/288/186/191/dc6efe06220508372d2ccf574b3ad870.jpg)
That's nice. Where can I get that keyboard for cheap?
There's a few that wants in as well. We will see when the time comes.Thanks Elton!
I'm dying to try Round 5 keys on this (all black on all black), so I'll let you know in about a year or two once everything arrives :/
Figured. Was fence sitting until the 1800 layout dropped. Probably too late to the party though. Ah well.
Yeah, no PCB only orders..
I'm dying to try Round 5 keys on this (all black on all black), so I'll let you know in about a year or two once everything arrives :/
Something like this?Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=53942.0;attach=57353;image)
Yeah, no PCB only orders..
It's too bad there's no option for a flat case...but still glad I got in :p
Did I make that 20 from the US? Hope so, this look amazing. I presume we can still use the other non-8100 layout.
Has anyone asked him if he'd consider modifying the plate design to allow switch removal or better yet do it for him? Not a show-stopper though.
I could help with proxying orders but after the Phantom situation I'd only want mine proxied if we have full confidence the person doing it is going to follow through.
[)amien
WTB just the new PCB (and plate) if possible!
I plan on using it with standoffs flat on a desk.It's too bad there's no option for a flat case...but still glad I got in :p
See above: problem solved!
WTB just the new PCB (and plate) if possible!
I plan on using it with standoffs flat on a desk.It's too bad there's no option for a flat case...but still glad I got in :p
See above: problem solved!
I don't understand the proposed solution...
Maybe I can try moving left control to caps lock and use that control as a winkey.
Maybe I can try moving left control to caps lock and use that control as a winkey.
That's what I do with my winkeyless boards. I call it the "soft spoken" layout since there's no caps lock key at all.
Any chance for only buying the pcb? Plan to just replace old pcb to try new layout and use back the casing.
Yeah, no PCB only orders..
Maximum order quantity extension v2? :DI'm hoping for the same ^-^
Hey, maybe people will jump off to get the v1 from sherry's site? :p
Seriously, I would have bought a bunch of stuff from originative if not for the lack of communication :(Hey, maybe people will jump off to get the v1 from sherry's site? :pAnd risk orders with missing stuff with no communication? :))
Here is the form for the assembly options.
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1bNfp2IDxZSUid7v6SOlnol1BAgkt82n4DeK074dbd38/viewform
It's on the first page as well.
The default colour for switch stickers is purple
Here is the form for the assembly options.
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1bNfp2IDxZSUid7v6SOlnol1BAgkt82n4DeK074dbd38/viewform
It's on the first page as well.
The default colour for switch stickers is purple
otherwise upload a picture and put the link in the text box
Hey Elton, can I use this layout(space row: 1.25x,1.25x,1.25x,6.25x,1.5x,1.5x,1x,1x)? This layout can let me keep left win key and arrow keys. I didn't see this in the form, so I just want to confirm .
Elton can you please tell me what color i have choosen?
Just curious, did duck help design the kmacs?
I am still thinking to join the assembly service or not... Sad that no mx clear option.Think of it as a chance to try ergo clears..
I am still thinking to join the assembly service or not... Sad that no mx clear option.Think of it as a chance to try ergo clears..
Unless you already have Browns, then no comments.
Nope. I was merely thinking along the lines of the non-clicky tactile switch category.wat. Are you saying browns=ergo clears?I am still thinking to join the assembly service or not... Sad that no mx clear option.Think of it as a chance to try ergo clears..
Unless you already have Browns, then no comments.
wat. Are you saying browns=ergo clears?I am still thinking to join the assembly service or not... Sad that no mx clear option.Think of it as a chance to try ergo clears..
Unless you already have Browns, then no comments.
Nope. I was merely thinking along the lines of the non-clicky tactile switch category.
Don't they feel similar except for the spring weight? That's my experience with Black/Red and Blue/Green.
Nope. I was merely thinking along the lines of the non-clicky tactile switch category.wat. Are you saying browns=ergo clears?I am still thinking to join the assembly service or not... Sad that no mx clear option.Think of it as a chance to try ergo clears..
Unless you already have Browns, then no comments.
Don't they feel similar except for the spring weight? That's my experience with Black/Red and Blue/Green.
Hmm now I'm curious about ergo clear. ::) Is the bump more noticeable than blue? I didn't want brown because people say it's scratchy red and I don't like it.
Oh I understand that the clears are non-clicky & tactile. I'm not exactly sure what they feel like though; like if you never tried Topre how would you know what you are missing kind-of-thing y'know? My impression is they the bump is similar or greater than blues, and a larger activation / bottom out force.Hmm now I'm curious about ergo clear. ::) Is the bump more noticeable than blue? I didn't want brown because people say it's scratchy red and I don't like it.The ergo clear is really different from the blues. Blues are clicky but ergo clears are tactiles. If you're looking for a tactile keyboard you should definitely give the ergo clears a try, they're usually the preferred MX tactile switch.
Oh I understand that the clears are non-clicky & tactile. I'm not exactly sure what they feel like though; like if you never tried Topre how would you know what you are missing kind-of-thing y'know? My impression is they the bump is similar or greater than blues, and a larger activation / bottom out force.Hmm now I'm curious about ergo clear. ::) Is the bump more noticeable than blue? I didn't want brown because people say it's scratchy red and I don't like it.The ergo clear is really different from the blues. Blues are clicky but ergo clears are tactiles. If you're looking for a tactile keyboard you should definitely give the ergo clears a try, they're usually the preferred MX tactile switch.
Maybe I really should get some and try for myself.
Well that's it then! My next board will be ergo clear.Oh I understand that the clears are non-clicky & tactile. I'm not exactly sure what they feel like though; like if you never tried Topre how would you know what you are missing kind-of-thing y'know? My impression is they the bump is similar or greater than blues, and a larger activation / bottom out force.Hmm now I'm curious about ergo clear. ::) Is the bump more noticeable than blue? I didn't want brown because people say it's scratchy red and I don't like it.The ergo clear is really different from the blues. Blues are clicky but ergo clears are tactiles. If you're looking for a tactile keyboard you should definitely give the ergo clears a try, they're usually the preferred MX tactile switch.
Maybe I really should get some and try for myself.
I see what you're trying to say. I say that the point of resistance for the click on the blues is very pronounced, whereas it's a bit more gradual for tactile switches. A bump, like I said previously. The resistance on MX switches right before the point of actuation (so the click/tactile part of the switch) is snappier than Topre. Topre feels more smooth and gradual, but super tactile at the same time. You're are missing out if you haven't tried a good tactile switch yet :p
You shouldn't count on it. I think that the best option for you is to send it to someone in the US to assemble the keyboard, and then send them clears, springs, and lube as well. You can buy clears and springs off of mechanicalkeyboards.com
You shouldn't count on it. I think that the best option for you is to send it to someone in the US to assemble the keyboard, and then send them clears, springs, and lube as well. You can buy clears and springs off of mechanicalkeyboards.comI should just hold off on filling in the form then. We are still some time away from the actual deadline so I have time to save up a little. :)
You shouldn't count on it. I think that the best option for you is to send it to someone in the US to assemble the keyboard, and then send them clears, springs, and lube as well. You can buy clears and springs off of mechanicalkeyboards.com
mk has springs??? shieetttt
Are these 15 units sold out? If not, I would like to place an order.
You shouldn't count on it. I think that the best option for you is to send it to someone in the US to assemble the keyboard, and then send them clears, springs, and lube as well. You can buy clears and springs off of mechanicalkeyboards.com
mk has springs??? shieetttt
Whoops. Meant lube. Sorry to get your hopes up lol
I just want to put 1800 Keys on this puppy, do I need to fill out the customization assembly to make sure I get the correct plate? I will build this myself and provide my own switches/stabilizers.]
I assume the plate has to support every layout the PCB does right?
I assume the plate has to support every layout the PCB does right?
If they are universal plates, they could be specific to layouts though. I'm not familiar enough with the plate.
I assume the plate has to support every layout the PCB does right?
If they are universal plates, they could be specific to layouts though. I'm not familiar enough with the plate.
The Duck Mini plate had wide cutouts for the switches with multiple possible positions like Caps lock and the bottom row. I'll snap a picture of it when I get home since it's currently disassembled
I assume the plate has to support every layout the PCB does right?
If they are universal plates, they could be specific to layouts though. I'm not familiar enough with the plate.
The Duck Mini plate had wide cutouts for the switches with multiple possible positions like Caps lock and the bottom row. I'll snap a picture of it when I get home since it's currently disassembled
Do you have a whole collection of duck's keyboards or something? :P
I assume the plate has to support every layout the PCB does right?
If they are universal plates, they could be specific to layouts though. I'm not familiar enough with the plate.
The Duck Mini plate had wide cutouts for the switches with multiple possible positions like Caps lock and the bottom row. I'll snap a picture of it when I get home since it's currently disassembled
I've already asked and it's a no unfortunately
EDIT: You can order 1 stabilizer set for one unit ordered
Just PM me if you want to add a set.
Is there no possibility that the order limit can be expanded again? I'd really like one of these keyboards, and since the initial orders filled in a day, I'm sure I'm not the only one that still wants one.
So by custom LED, does that also include customizing the side SMD LED?Has there been any news on this?
Is there no possibility that the order limit can be expanded again? I'd really like one of these keyboards, and since the initial orders filled in a day, I'm sure I'm not the only one that still wants one.
There's still Originative.
Still waiting for answers, but the stabilizers probably $10. You can buy a set if you get one unassembled. For assembly, it is included in the price.
Not possible to expand anymore orders as that will delay further of their plans (ie viper and eagle)
Assembly form will end when the payment is due..around mid-end of May.
does assembly include stickers?Yup. See his second post.
does assembly include stickers?Yup. See his second post.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56877.msg1287536#msg1287536 (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56877.msg1287536#msg1287536)
Can't be worse than me. I've got 14/20 :pdoes assembly include stickers?Yup. See his second post.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56877.msg1287536#msg1287536 (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56877.msg1287536#msg1287536)
damn i'm blind, thanks
I completed the form, however why do I have to answer the numpad question 3 times? I wanted 3 B, regular numpad, however I had to pick a numpad option for 1, and 2 as well as it was required?
I completed the form, however why do I have to answer the numpad question 3 times? I wanted 3 B, regular numpad, however I had to pick a numpad option for 1, and 2 as well as it was required?
Each of the options offers different keys. It is neccessary to specify each setup.
A standard numpad would be:
1b (for the 2u "0" key)
2b (for the 2u "+" key)
3b (for the 2u "Enter" key)
Playing around with the layout editor, this should be the look of my keyboard after I receive the granite caps from sp.
If 1.25x,1.25x,1.25x,6.25x,1.5x,1.5x,1x,1x works
(Attachment Link)
Alternative option:
(Attachment Link)
Can't wait to get my hands on this :D
Playing around with the layout editor, this should be the look of my keyboard after I receive the granite caps from sp.
If 1.25x,1.25x,1.25x,6.25x,1.5x,1.5x,1x,1x works
(Attachment Link)
Alternative option:
(Attachment Link)
Can't wait to get my hands on this :D
Those are the exact two layouts I'm going for as well. I can't wait! Finally a full size board without the "full-size".
Ok, I changed it to silver..I did, I just haven't changed it yet on the form..
Maybe I should've left out the assembly service..........
Yes, you can order one full set of stabilizers for each lightsaver you ordered
You have to buy 2 sets though since lightsaver requires the numpad if you want them to have the 2U stabs.
each set is 3.5$
Ok, I changed it to silver..I did, I just haven't changed it yet on the form..
Maybe I should've left out the assembly service..........
Sorry, but I would still go for dark gray if it was that original color as described earlier.
Is there any chance of another increase for the order cap? This looks amazing, I'd hate to miss out.
Also for the grey for both Orion and Lightsaver V2, it'll be the blue grey colour.Off-topic, but will Viper be available in that two-toned grey?
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_dAHG88&document_srl=200538
Also for the grey for both Orion and Lightsaver V2, it'll be the blue grey colour.Off-topic, but will Viper be available in that two-toned grey?
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_dAHG88&document_srl=200538
Also for the grey for both Orion and Lightsaver V2, it'll be the blue grey colour.Off-topic, but will Viper be available in that two-toned grey?
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_dAHG88&document_srl=200538
Viper is one-piece housing (just like LSv2) so that 2-tone style would be impossible I believe :/
Viper will have that bluish grey as well. Viper is 1 piece design. The PCB will be cut to fit on the case, so the PCB will be shaped like a HHKB.Cool, nice to know. Another reason to get it... I hope I could save up before the GB is up... :'(
...
Thank you Elton for being such a great host through this process. Rep +1 :thumb:
TrueCustom designed a new PCB for the Lightsaver V2, so it'll take about a month longer to be ready. Around end of May.
I think this still applies. So I think users will be getting them around mid June.TrueCustom designed a new PCB for the Lightsaver V2, so it'll take about a month longer to be ready. Around end of May.
Viper will have that bluish grey as well. Viper is 1 piece design. The PCB will be cut to fit on the case, so the PCB will be shaped like a HHKB.Awesome.
Ronnn, that layout will work, but without the plate.
Also, if you want the new layout 1.5 1.5 7x 1.5 1.5 1x 1x, you'll need the new plate. For the current layout from V1, you'll have that current plate.
People, please let me know which plate you want and it will be included with the set. If you want both, you have to buy the extra plate. Sorry for the late notice, I just found out last night..
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Akw9rY8oi1o6dDZDVE9IWWc0OGNkc19hcGx6TjN3c2c&single=true&gid=2&output=html
Here's a form for you guys to check it over and let me know if there are any errors..
I'm curious why some people are getting 15 blockers?? Is it just to have extras?
I'm curious why some people are getting 15 blockers?? Is it just to have extras?
One setup I saw used 15 blockers. It is easier to buy blockers now than to need them later and not be able to get them. I'm sure I can find some use for them in other circumstances.
Digi, please look at the layout options on the assembly form which you filled out...
It increased to 30
Plate only layouts on the form. As I've said it won't fit on any plates offered here.
Oh opps. Let me double check.
Edit: okay I added that one later on and that layout D is only without plate. Forgot about that.
No need to be confused. Either way I've already said that layout can't be used with plate anyways.
Ok last time.
1.25 1.25 1.25 6.25 1.5 1.5 1 1 IS NOT SUPPORTED BY THE PLATES.
If anyone ask again, I'll drop them off this buy. ;)
Sorry for the dumb question, but as someone fairly new to keyboards, what is a blocker?
It's the Viper GB going to have assembly service?I hope so, otherwise I'll have to send everything to kmiller8, and have him sort it out
I'm curious why some people are getting 15 blockers?? Is it just to have extras?
One setup I saw used 15 blockers. It is easier to buy blockers now than to need them later and not be able to get them. I'm sure I can find some use for them in other circumstances.
Any chance you could find a link to that setup? I completely agree about buying now rather than needing later, that's why I asked. Maybe I'm missing out on a really cool layout option! ;)
Show Image(http://cfile1.uf.tistory.com/image/2405E63C528A205E3098FD)
This one has 14, but why would you make a TKL out of this?
Show Image(http://cfile1.uf.tistory.com/image/2405E63C528A205E3098FD)
This one has 14, but why would you make a TKL out of this?
Does any1 know if I relocate the num lock to the place next to F12. The num lock led toggling still work? Sorry for asking such stupid question.It's not a stupid question so don't worry. I think it's possible, but I'm not sure what the firmware program can do regarding capslock, numlock and special keys. It might have to hardwired differently in which case you have to ask elton to ask duck and see if he's willing to do it.
Yes, I believe you can. http://duck0113.tistory.com/84 (http://duck0113.tistory.com/84) - ty to Photoelectric for posting in the Lightsaver thread. I plan on programming the left and right arrow keys to the right-click mouse / right windows key.That is seriously cool. You mean I can now change my caps lock to the timeout corner - where it should be - without a DIP switch? :))
Just make sure you program your layer toggle key somewhere far out of reach. I used to hit mine accidentally and would then get "delete" instead of "right arrow" on the numpad when viewing photographs--not fun ;)
Just make sure you program your layer toggle key somewhere far out of reach. I used to hit mine accidentally and would then get "delete" instead of "right arrow" on the numpad when viewing photographs--not fun ;)
Layers make you super efficient! Maybe move the delete key under the layer instead :p
Just make sure you program your layer toggle key somewhere far out of reach. I used to hit mine accidentally and would then get "delete" instead of "right arrow" on the numpad when viewing photographs--not fun ;)
Layers make you super efficient! Maybe move the delete key under the layer instead :p
I think you misunderstood, the layer toggle changes layout if you have your layers set up differently. And there are 4 layers! So if you hit the key accidentally and don't notice, most things behave normally, but say your numpad might now be doing different things from the previous layer. So like "delete" instead of a directional arrow :) I think it would actually be very helpful to show layers in a way that does not involve LED blinking x number of times constantly (that gets old quickly, so I disabled it), but there's no display attached, and those who use LEDs for everything would not benefit from having extra indicator LEDs (like on F4 for Layer #4). There are other ways to swap layers too, but it's definitely something to think about and experiment with. I used to have Layer Toggle as a 1x function key to the right of the right Shift, and quickly moved it away farther out of reach.
That's what I will probably end up doing. I would only use 2 layers anyway, how could you remember more than 2? o.O
I just want to say thanks to whomever gave up their spot in this GB, thus allowing me in. Now I have a reason to get rid of my random g80-18xxs that are sitting around collecting dust or are in pieces. I don't think I'll need another 1800 layout after this V2. :thumb:
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=222831&mid=board_Lsno50 ;)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/831/222/2a63c8f19920b3dfc24dee048570bd0a.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/831/222/893f165f5ac4d61108b6f39ed1cce516.JPG)
I think I'll start invoicing in the next week or 2. Probably the ones with assembly first.Woohoo! I'm super excited. Should have my monies to pay for it too. 8)
I've never spoke with Duck, but with TrueCustom. He's a very nice guy. :thumb:As we can see with his GB history, he is reliable and has good a reputation. I have no doubt ;)
Any ideas for LED combos for a red case? I'm set on the red case but I'm not sure what would look good with it. I'm was thinking of white for the alphas, but I'm stumped.
Someone help me out here!
Orange, white, red, warm white. I recently put some orange LEDs on a keyboard with a red plate, and it looked a perfect combination.
Yeah and does the colour of plate actually have an effect on led vibrance?Orange, white, red, warm white. I recently put some orange LEDs on a keyboard with a red plate, and it looked a perfect combination.
Where did you get the red plate? I would love to get my hands on an orange one.
It was on a KMAC2, which comes with a red plate :) It does make a difference, yes, because the LED color illuminates the plate, and so depending on plate color (silver or some color), the glow will look a bit different. Silver plate basically doesn't alter LED colors.
I was just saying that orange LEDs seem to go well with red anodized aluminum as a color choice.
Good news! PCBs can be ordered separately!
Good news! PCBs can be ordered separately!Price and how many can we order?
$45 PCB2 plates and 2 pcbs please!!! Well unless I got in on the main order...
$35 Plate
How many do you want?
There might be more drop outs during invoice, so wait it out ;)That works! Thanks so much Elton, I'll put my order in depending on how everything goes. :thumb:
Deadline is June 6
I'll make new order form for this...adding it to the current one will just mess it up
Good news! PCBs can be ordered separately!
Elton will post a new order form for themGood news! PCBs can be ordered separately!
...how?
estimate delivery time for pcb and plates?Same questions here. Is there a full assemble service for the PCB and Plate (Switches, LEDs. etc)? And is the plate available in many layouts or just one? since Duck produces more PCBs and Plates, is there any change for the aluminum housing? I really want to get one since I missed the V1, couldn't believe that I missed the V2 also. :(
does the assembly for the pcb require switches and leds only?
Deadline is June 6This works perfectly for me, thank you Elton!
Good news! PCBs can be ordered separately!
I'm not including assembly option for PCB only orders. The plate is for the new layout (1800). Will have the same shipping date as the rest of this group buy.
The PCB + plate sits on top of the stand offs.
I'm not including assembly option for PCB only orders. The plate is for the new layout (1800). Will have the same shipping date as the rest of this group buy.
The PCB + plate sits on top of the stand offs.
well, but for the assembly we need to solder only switches and leds or we also need to solder smd components and other stuff?
in the latter case i don't have the right equipment and probably the ability to do such a job
What manner of assembly options will be available with this round?
MX clear by any chance? If not, Change springs? etc
oh, there's already 30 orders....le sighBut you can get pcb's and plates now... I'm sure someone will get a case gb going... In fact, if JD will help me out with
This or Cherry 1800 BoW caps on this keyboard?Show Image(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/15/dy9yruqe.jpg)
This or Cherry 1800 BoW caps on this keyboard?Show Image(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/15/dy9yruqe.jpg)
This or Cherry 1800 BoW caps on this keyboard?That's what I plan on using!!! Looks soooo good!Show Image(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/15/dy9yruqe.jpg)
Can I still order with assembly? Can I pay by the 20th of May or is the deadline for payment on June 7?
Elton5354, Do you full image about Lightsaver V2 PCB? I wanna see some hole on PCB. I just buy PCB and I 'll do case & plate by acrylic :) So i need it to guesstimate my case & plate
I hope you can help :) Thanks
I'll be invoicing starting tomorrow.
Who doesnt ;)I'll be invoicing starting tomorrow.
I don't usually say this, but I'm really excited to pay for this thing.
I'll be invoicing starting tomorrow.
Apparently I'm keyboard dumb, anyone know what plate I need for Layout "d" I haven't been paying a whole lot of attention to this thread besides posting in it getting excited, and waiting to pay, have the cash sitting in my car. :oIIRC, layout d only works without plate
Elton, any chance we can order the duck blockers individually as well?
This set?
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55644.0
Elton, any chance we can order the duck blockers individually as well?
He said yes to me. But the shipping rates from korea are quite expensive. Almost 30USD to Europe.
Or you can piggyback someone's order given it won't exceed the weight bracket. Each blocker weighs .008 kg. then the person can help you ship it within conus at a good price?
If it's only 4 and if no one volunteers I can help you. I can ship it to you for $4 in a bubble mailer.
Yeah, I forgot to add them to your invoices for those that ordered a set and extra PCBs/plates...
Each plate is .2kg and PCB is .15 kg
Lightsaver V2 set is 3.1 kg
Yeah, I forgot to add them to your invoices for those that ordered a set and extra PCBs/plates...
Each plate is .2kg and PCB is .15 kg
Lightsaver V2 set is 3.1 kg
Okay. Will you invoice the difference?
I take it you're invoicing the PCB and plate only orders last?
Will you be able to get some of those too?I take it you're invoicing the PCB and plate only orders last?
Yes
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=31497&mid=board_Lsno50
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=209&mid=board_housing
Some acrylic housing for the L V2
I take it you're invoicing the PCB and plate only orders last?
Yes
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=31497&mid=board_Lsno50
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=209&mid=board_housing
Some acrylic housing for the L V2
Will you be able to get some of those too?I take it you're invoicing the PCB and plate only orders last?
Yes
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=31497&mid=board_Lsno50
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=209&mid=board_housing
Some acrylic housing for the L V2
I take it you're invoicing the PCB and plate only orders last?
Yes
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=31497&mid=board_Lsno50
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=209&mid=board_housing
Some acrylic housing for the L V2
Excellent. Thank you. One of those has a cad file which I might use to mill or print my own. Any idea if the aluminium housing has drawings available? I'd love to mill one out of stainless or acrylic.
I sent a PCB and plate order request, I hope to get soldering!
****. I wasn't keeping up with the thread after the initial signup.
Can someone please explain the difference between the original plate and the new plate, and is it still possible to select a different colour for the case?
Sorry, I just did that for simplicity sake. Maybe I should receive in CAD next time so I don't have to convert USD into CAD. :)Ah, that explains it. Paid and the waiting period/excitement begins!
Sorry, I just did that for simplicity sake. Maybe I should receive in CAD next time so I don't have to convert USD into CAD. :)
Sorry, I just did that for simplicity sake. Maybe I should receive in CAD next time so I don't have to convert USD into CAD. :)
PLEASE do this for viper GB :D
For those ordering PCBs and Plates only in US, you guys might want to combine orders because each shipment is going to be $40-44...
Also orders for these will be closed now.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Akw9rY8oi1o6dDZDVE9IWWc0OGNkc19hcGx6TjN3c2c&single=true&gid=2&output=html
I think you'll save about 15-18$ each.If no one else minds, I would be happy to proxy those for us US dudes. Just let me know.
There are 5 US orders and total weight would be 2.6 kg so 3 kg weight which is about $64. About $13 each split amongst the 5 orders. About $14 to ship within the US?
I don't mind either way. Not much more work for me but if no one else speaks up, I'll just go ahead and skip this.
=。= i can not order。why?It's too late now.. Orders were closed 2 days ago
=。= i can not order。why?It's too late now.. Orders were closed 2 days ago
Deadline for order is June 6, 2014
For those ordering PCBs and Plates only in US, you guys might want to combine orders because each shipment is going to be $40-44...
Also orders for these will be closed now.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Akw9rY8oi1o6dDZDVE9IWWc0OGNkc19hcGx6TjN3c2c&single=true&gid=2&output=html
=。= i can not order。why?pcb and plate yes, there were only 30 orders for the full setup. Those filled up a while ago!
I think you'll save about 15-18$ each.If no one else minds, I would be happy to proxy those for us US dudes. Just let me know.
There are 5 US orders and total weight would be 2.6 kg so 3 kg weight which is about $64. About $13 each split amongst the 5 orders. About $14 to ship within the US?
I don't mind either way. Not much more work for me but if no one else speaks up, I'll just go ahead and skip this.
Also, I guess no one has backed out on the full buy ah?
I'd rather not go through a proxy and just pay the full shipping. My Phantom experience left a bad taste in my mouth.
[)amien
I think you'll save about 15-18$ each.If no one else minds, I would be happy to proxy those for us US dudes. Just let me know.
There are 5 US orders and total weight would be 2.6 kg so 3 kg weight which is about $64. About $13 each split amongst the 5 orders. About $14 to ship within the US?
I don't mind either way. Not much more work for me but if no one else speaks up, I'll just go ahead and skip this.
Also, I guess no one has backed out on the full buy ah?
。。。i want to be cry。In fact, this is my dream keyboard and it is my fist time to come to GH..=。= i can not order。why?pcb and plate yes, there were only 30 orders for the full setup. Those filled up a while ago!
。。。i want to be cry。In fact, this is my dream keyboard and it is my fist time to come to GH..=。= i can not order。why?pcb and plate yes, there were only 30 orders for the full setup. Those filled up a while ago!
maybe it is too late,but give me a chance please..
Or please tell me when the next group buy is..
thanks very much
So there are 5 of us US PCB and plate people. Who else is willing to proxy ship their orders?
So there are 5 of us US PCB and plate people. Who else is willing to proxy ship their orders?
I'm in.
So there are 5 of us US PCB and plate people. Who else is willing to proxy ship their orders?
I'm in.
I guess that makes 3 of us. And the other two?
Well, even if just a couple of us want to do it, I'm still down to help! I've already got flat rate game boxes sitting at my house! lol
Hi Elton, I've sent you a PM about resending the invoice to my other Paypal account. Can you reply when you are free? Thanks! ;D
LONGSHOT: Any change someone welshed out and you still have one for sale?Hmm. Same question, PCB-only. I didn't realize that was actually a thing with this GB until the order period for them was over.
Well, even if just a couple of us want to do it, I'm still down to help! I've already got flat rate game boxes sitting at my house! lol
Well we still need to hear from one more person. It he's in then I say let's do it provided the savings are significant.
Well, even if just a couple of us want to do it, I'm still down to help! I've already got flat rate game boxes sitting at my house! lol
Well we still need to hear from one more person. It he's in then I say let's do it provided the savings are significant.
You should message pacifist if he'll do it..
If it's you 4 only then it's $56 for shipping together so $14 each before domestic shipping costs.
I believe the flat rate game boxes are $17ish... I'll have to check to make sure, but it's some where around that. Might be cheaper to ship non flat rate too... I'll check all options before shipping for sure.Well, even if just a couple of us want to do it, I'm still down to help! I've already got flat rate game boxes sitting at my house! lol
Well we still need to hear from one more person. It he's in then I say let's do it provided the savings are significant.
You should message pacifist if he'll do it..
If it's you 4 only then it's $56 for shipping together so $14 each before domestic shipping costs.
Awaiting his reply.
Hey Apocalypse - how much would our individual shipments cost?
It's a very heavy keyboard kit. Flat rate large boxes are rather thin and too narrow to put in enough padding. I'd not risk that. I'd recommend taller custom boxes and ordering pre-paid labels on-line at USPS.com (there's a discount for priority mail when paying on-line). Should cost about that anyway, or potentially less depending on distance.
Ah yes, the PCB+plate should certainly be fine! Could ship those for around $10 per set via Priority Mail around the country (paying on-line).
Hmm - I can tell I'm horribly late for this GB - hence this post.
I have been unable to figure out if and where it might possible to buy a fully assembled Lightsaver V2 keyboard in a particular layout with say MX greens ? Outside of this GB I mean.
I'm sorry if this is a silly question that I should have been able to work out for myself :-[
Inc.
Hi Elton if I would want to modify the layout slightly .. What is the last date for me to submit a revised layout ?
Ah yes, the PCB+plate should certainly be fine! Could ship those for around $10 per set via Priority Mail around the country (paying on-line).
Then maybe it could still be cheaper to proxy ship even with only 3 people involved...
So far as I can tell it's just apocalypse, crabby_b, and I wanting to proxy. Haven't heard anything from pacifist. What would our three orders cost to ship to Maow?
Do you have a rough estimate on when production and then shipping will take place? I don't remember reading it in the thread, and it wasn't listed in the first post.
Just received my clear switches today. It's now sitting beside black springs and 13 different colored leds. Sip sockets are coming on the way. Can't wait to receive lightsaver :cool:!Show Image(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rUr0QjD_8Z4/U45U2H2PYvI/AAAAAAAAAho/wW2bmLzfhyw/w1167-h875-no/IMG_20140603_190237.jpg)
I got it from mechanicalkeyboards.comJust received my clear switches today. It's now sitting beside black springs and 13 different colored leds. Sip sockets are coming on the way. Can't wait to receive lightsaver :cool:!Show Image(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rUr0QjD_8Z4/U45U2H2PYvI/AAAAAAAAAho/wW2bmLzfhyw/w1167-h875-no/IMG_20140603_190237.jpg)
Hi Ronnn! Where you bought the switch from?
What springs did you buy? Is that custom spring?I got it from mechanicalkeyboards.comJust received my clear switches today. It's now sitting beside black springs and 13 different colored leds. Sip sockets are coming on the way. Can't wait to receive lightsaver :cool:!Show Image(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rUr0QjD_8Z4/U45U2H2PYvI/AAAAAAAAAho/wW2bmLzfhyw/w1167-h875-no/IMG_20140603_190237.jpg)
Hi Ronnn! Where you bought the switch from?
What springs did you buy? Is that custom spring?I got it from mechanicalkeyboards.comJust received my clear switches today. It's now sitting beside black springs and 13 different colored leds. Sip sockets are coming on the way. Can't wait to receive lightsaver :cool:!Show Image(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rUr0QjD_8Z4/U45U2H2PYvI/AAAAAAAAAho/wW2bmLzfhyw/w1167-h875-no/IMG_20140603_190237.jpg)
Hi Ronnn! Where you bought the switch from?
Hi Elton! Have you receive my payment already?
How much extra would the sips sockets be?
thanks Ron!How much extra would the sips sockets be?
I bought my sip sockets from ebay. $2.7 for 240 sip sockets including shipping. :eek:
Hnnggg looks nice, but that price. Jelly of all of you who jumped in on this.
Never regret for a split of a second, even all my friends think I am crazy.+1
Everytime there's a post in this thread I get erect. :o
BEST. DAY. EVER!!!
no more slot for this? :(No more slots. This was a limited run and they filled up pretty quickly.
Just checking, but from what I see, this pcb does support pcb mount switches... right?
Thanks again, RON!!!Just checking, but from what I see, this pcb does support pcb mount switches... right?
yes
So do most of you get your stabilisers from Mouser? Been searching GeekHack and DT for everybody's favourite source. Mouser and WASD seem to be the main ones. Haven't found anything on eBay.
They said next week. Sorry guys.
End of the world fo sho.They said next week. Sorry guys.
Next week for production start? Finish? Ending the world?
Will there be another group buy like this one in the future??? cant believe I missed out :'(
End of the world fo sho.They said next week. Sorry guys.
Next week for production start? Finish? Ending the world?
Beautiful Elton!
From which board is this set? I am planning to use a similar QWERTZ set that lacks the short right shift key and has a 2x Plus key on the numpad.
Beautiful Elton!
From which board is this set? I am planning to use a similar QWERTZ set that lacks the short right shift key and has a 2x Plus key on the numpad.
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.29.4oayCV&id=16620743597&ns=1#detail
Get a tao bao agent, it's where I got mine from
Beautiful Elton!
From which board is this set? I am planning to use a similar QWERTZ set that lacks the short right shift key and has a 2x Plus key on the numpad.
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.29.4oayCV&id=16620743597&ns=1#detail
Get a tao bao agent, it's where I got mine from
I will check this link later (can't access this site from work).
How much did you pay in the end after shipping and agent fees?
Beautiful Elton!
From which board is this set? I am planning to use a similar QWERTZ set that lacks the short right shift key and has a 2x Plus key on the numpad.
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.29.4oayCV&id=16620743597&ns=1#detail
Get a tao bao agent, it's where I got mine from
I will check this link later (can't access this site from work).
How much did you pay in the end after shipping and agent fees?
It's about $60 to my country (incl. shipping)
It's not the price I'm afraid of , its the condition of the keycaps
Luckily it came in good shape and I bought it from the same seller as the link I gave you
He seems to have more than 1 in stock
Hmm, I don't know if this is the correct place to ask this, but I guess it is somewhat related.I got a set of clear ones from my local Home Depot. :D
I got a LightSaver from the Originative group buy months ago, and I lost one of the rubber feets while travelling.
Any idea where I can buy those?
They said next week. Sorry guys.Next week for production or shipping?
I would but I'm on my phone but there is a thread about it somewhere.
Production is done.
I would but I'm on my phone but there is a thread about it somewhere.
Production is done.
Does someone have an ebay link they would recommend for SIP sockets for LED swapping?
Again Ron, you're the man! :thumb:Does someone have an ebay link they would recommend for SIP sockets for LED swapping?
I got mine from here
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/140910386490?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Bought two for $2.7 (enough for 120 switches)include shipping
Beautiful Elton!
From which board is this set? I am planning to use a similar QWERTZ set that lacks the short right shift key and has a 2x Plus key on the numpad.
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.29.4oayCV&id=16620743597&ns=1#detail
Get a tao bao agent, it's where I got mine from
Beautiful Elton!
From which board is this set? I am planning to use a similar QWERTZ set that lacks the short right shift key and has a 2x Plus key on the numpad.
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.29.4oayCV&id=16620743597&ns=1#detail
Get a tao bao agent, it's where I got mine from
Is that left shift looking smaller than it should be to anyone else?
I went with MX Blues because those are my favorite switches. No experiments for this one!I was thinking of that too... I haven't got the switches yet, they're on there way from MK. I'll be doing stickers and lube, so I might change out my springs too...
Stock MX Clears are too stiff for me. Do you get them modded to ergo clears?
I got clears too, but haven't had a chance to feel it on a real keyboard. Brown is my favorite switch so far(only tried blue, red, black and brown).I've got some 80g from sherry... I want to say those were close to 72g...
Maybe I will get some 78g gold spring from sprit, but I don't think I can wait..
I can't stop looking at pictures of lightsavers...
What kind of switches you guys going with? I got clears...
Never used them, but I love browns and always hear how good they are.
I have a single one and it's nice, but kinda hard to get a feel for typing with one
switch...
I went with MX Blues because those are my favorite switches. No experiments for this one!My brother!
Stock MX Clears are too stiff for me. Do you get them modded to ergo clears?
I've been looking around for transparent cover
no luck :(
but I guess white switch with white cover isn't bad at all...
*trying to cheer myself*
I've been looking around for transparent cover
no luck :(
but I guess white switch with white cover isn't bad at all...
*trying to cheer myself*
I ordered my MX blues with transparent covers directly from 7Bit. These covers are made by Cherry and fit 100%.
I heard that the after market replacement covers had some issues...
I've been looking around for transparent cover
no luck :(
but I guess white switch with white cover isn't bad at all...
*trying to cheer myself*
I ordered my MX blues with transparent covers directly from 7Bit. These covers are made by Cherry and fit 100%.
I heard that the after market replacement covers had some issues...
isn't that still on pre-order stage
and his group buy usually takes a while (in a good way) right?
Do the plates allow for switch removal without desoldering? Not that it would matter for me.
I've been looking around for transparent cover
no luck :(
but I guess white switch with white cover isn't bad at all...
*trying to cheer myself*
I ordered my MX blues with transparent covers directly from 7Bit. These covers are made by Cherry and fit 100%.
I heard that the after market replacement covers had some issues...
isn't that still on pre-order stage
and his group buy usually takes a while (in a good way) right?
Yes, I don't have them yet, but it shouldn't be much longer.
Actually I should read up on his giant thread again :p
Here you go:
http://deskthority.net/group-buys-f50/cherry-mx-taking-pre-orders-t2760.html
Here you go:
http://deskthority.net/group-buys-f50/cherry-mx-taking-pre-orders-t2760.html
.50 EURO each..that's pretty steep!
You can't remove switches after soldering unfortunately.
Here you go:
http://deskthority.net/group-buys-f50/cherry-mx-taking-pre-orders-t2760.html
.50 EURO each..that's pretty steep!
You can't remove switches after soldering unfortunately.
Can you point us to a cheaper source?
Here you go:
http://deskthority.net/group-buys-f50/cherry-mx-taking-pre-orders-t2760.html
.50 EURO each..that's pretty steep!
You can't remove switches after soldering unfortunately.
Can you point us to a cheaper source?
No..but I don't really want to spend $80 (110x) on just switch cases..
I have some not so great news.
There is a delay in shipping. I apologize on their behalf. The lightsaver sets will ship next Friday and PCB/Plate orders will ship sometime this weekend. For those with assembly option will have to wait 2 more weeks.
Again, I apologize on their behalf for the delay. Somewhat expected, so I should've added a few weeks extra with the estimated time they given me. I'll do that next time. ;)
I am eager as you are in receiving this set as I participated as well, so I hope we get them soon!
I have some not so great news.Thanks :thumb:
There is a delay in shipping. I apologize on their behalf. The lightsaver sets will ship next Friday and PCB/Plate orders will ship sometime this weekend. For those with assembly option will have to wait 2 more weeks.
Again, I apologize on their behalf for the delay. Somewhat expected, so I should've added a few weeks extra with the estimated time they given me. I'll do that next time. ;)
I am eager as you are in receiving this set as I participated as well, so I hope we get them soon!
is it possible to split the numpad 0 on this board?
i realize i missed this buy [not sure why I passed it over]
if I can split the numpad 0 I might be on the hunt for one of these.
is it possible to split the numpad 0 on this board?
i realize i missed this buy [not sure why I passed it over]
if I can split the numpad 0 I might be on the hunt for one of these.
Yes.Show Image(http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0267/1905/products/LightSaver2_1024x1024.jpg?v=1383177641)
Since shipping is near I'll have to ask this:+1
Do I understand it correctly that the boards will be shipped directly from Korea?
Elton, can you influence what they put on the box? I am looking at 20% import tax so it would be great, if the box was declared 40$ or something instead of 400$...
When will we receive the shipping notifications (or we won't)?
Also, how long does it take for Korea to ship to Malaysia anyway?
Wohoo !! Malaysia LightSvrV2 group member number 2. Can't wait for this !!!Woots! How come I don't see you in LYN? Heh.
If anyone needs money more than a board I've decided I need this.
Any updates? :)he said he is preparing ship pcb& plate for me
They just shipped the PCBs/Plate only orders on Friday. I was told the sets will be shipped shortly after.
I just sent tracking #'s to those orders through PM. It was too much work to send each individually..For the set orders, I will post them on the spreadsheet for you to see amongst yourselves!
They just shipped the PCBs/Plate only orders on Friday. I was told the sets will be shipped shortly after.
They did say that the assembled boards will take a little longer. Let me confirm.
wtb Round 2! =]
wtb Round 2! =]
I'll second that :)
Why is the keyboard angle so steep for this particular keyboard? It is practically unusable based on what I have seen in the pictures.
Why is the keyboard angle so steep for this particular keyboard? It is practically unusable based on what I have seen in the pictures.
Why is the keyboard angle so steep for this particular keyboard? It is practically unusable based on what I have seen in the pictures.
That is personal preference and I know quite a few people who would disagree. ;)
Why is the keyboard angle so steep for this particular keyboard? It is practically unusable based on what I have seen in the pictures.
Yeah, the angle really bothered me and made me skip Round 1. I always use my boards flat on the table.I just needed something to go on my mantle... :p
But whatever ... the Lightsaver looks so nice, that I had to order one.
I simply told myself "If I can't get used to it, there are always the classifieds" :)
Exactly, most people don't use feet on their keyboard (you are not suppose to, flatter keyboards are better for typing) and this keyboard is too steep (has the "feet" always on). It makes it unusable.
(The steepness also makes the keyboard look funny, but that is a minor issue compared to the steepness, but one look at the keyboard and you know it looks so strange and there is something wrong with it).
Exactly, most people don't use feet on their keyboard (you are not suppose to, flatter keyboards are better for typing) and this keyboard is too steep (has the "feet" always on). It makes it unusable.
I sometimes use the feet on my filco, sometimes not. If anything, the board's angle makes it unusable to you. On the bright side, you won't want to spend $400+ in the classifieds when one (or more) of the 30 people who got the full set decides they need money more than they need a heavy programmable keyboard.(The steepness also makes the keyboard look funny, but that is a minor issue compared to the steepness, but one look at the keyboard and you know it looks so strange and there is something wrong with it).
LOL. And there are no spaces between the function and the number row. WTF?
Exactly, most people don't use feet on their keyboard (you are not suppose to, flatter keyboards are better for typing) and this keyboard is too steep (has the "feet" always on). It makes it unusable.
I sometimes use the feet on my filco, sometimes not. If anything, the board's angle makes it unusable to you. On the bright side, you won't want to spend $400+ in the classifieds when one (or more) of the 30 people who got the full set decides they need money more than they need a heavy programmable keyboard.(The steepness also makes the keyboard look funny, but that is a minor issue compared to the steepness, but one look at the keyboard and you know it looks so strange and there is something wrong with it).
LOL. And there are no spaces between the function and the number row. WTF?
Really? I'm all for discussion, but I do not come to this thread to see people bash this keyboard. It's not that you're doing anything explicitly wrong here, it's just...why?
Exactly, most people don't use feet on their keyboard (you are not suppose to, flatter keyboards are better for typing) and this keyboard is too steep (has the "feet" always on). It makes it unusable.
I sometimes use the feet on my filco, sometimes not. If anything, the board's angle makes it unusable to you. On the bright side, you won't want to spend $400+ in the classifieds when one (or more) of the 30 people who got the full set decides they need money more than they need a heavy programmable keyboard.(The steepness also makes the keyboard look funny, but that is a minor issue compared to the steepness, but one look at the keyboard and you know it looks so strange and there is something wrong with it).
LOL. And there are no spaces between the function and the number row. WTF?
Really? I'm all for discussion, but I do not come to this thread to see people bash this keyboard. It's not that you're doing anything explicitly wrong here, it's just...why?
Exactly, most people don't use feet on their keyboard (you are not suppose to, flatter keyboards are better for typing) and this keyboard is too steep (has the "feet" always on). It makes it unusable.
I sometimes use the feet on my filco, sometimes not. If anything, the board's angle makes it unusable to you. On the bright side, you won't want to spend $400+ in the classifieds when one (or more) of the 30 people who got the full set decides they need money more than they need a heavy programmable keyboard.(The steepness also makes the keyboard look funny, but that is a minor issue compared to the steepness, but one look at the keyboard and you know it looks so strange and there is something wrong with it).
LOL. And there are no spaces between the function and the number row. WTF?
Really? I'm all for discussion, but I do not come to this thread to see people bash this keyboard. It's not that you're doing anything explicitly wrong here, it's just...why?
Agreed. If you believe it's "unusable" then simply don't buy one and be on your way. People have differing preferences and those who have ordered a Lightsaver won't be dissuaded by your opinion.
I am saying there is no reason for a keyboard to be this steep. Making it so will alienate more customers than it brings in.
The design just doesn't make any sense from a usability point of view (because flatter keyboards are better).
It doesn't make sense from a monetary point of view (A steep keyboard will result in less customers. The majority of people do not use steep keyboards).
(PS: The steepness of the keyboard also looks strange, so there is another hit based on a aesthetic point of view.)
It is not as simple as not buying, but rather the seller is trying to pass off a flawed product to many people.
I am saying there is no reason for a keyboard to be this steep. Making it so will alienate more customers than it brings in.
The design just doesn't make any sense from a usability point of view (because flatter keyboards are better).
It doesn't make sense from a monetary point of view (A steep keyboard will result in less customers).
(PS: The steepness of the keyboard also looks strange, so there is another hit based on a aesthetic point of view.)
It is not as simple as not buying, but rather the seller is trying to pass off a flawed product to many people.
It is not as simple as not buying, but rather the seller is trying to pass off a flawed product to many people.
Or build a flatter board with the extra pcb I ordered. :thumb:
Exactly, most people don't use feet on their keyboard (you are not suppose to, flatter keyboards are better for typing) and this keyboard is too steep (has the "feet" always on). It makes it unusable.
I sometimes use the feet on my filco, sometimes not. If anything, the board's angle makes it unusable to you. On the bright side, you won't want to spend $400+ in the classifieds when one (or more) of the 30 people who got the full set decides they need money more than they need a heavy programmable keyboard.(The steepness also makes the keyboard look funny, but that is a minor issue compared to the steepness, but one look at the keyboard and you know it looks so strange and there is something wrong with it).
LOL. And there are no spaces between the function and the number row. WTF?
Really? I'm all for discussion, but I do not come to this thread to see people bash this keyboard. It's not that you're doing anything explicitly wrong here, it's just...why?
Agreed. If you believe it's "unusable" then simply don't buy one and be on your way. People have differing preferences and those who have ordered a Lightsaver won't be dissuaded by your opinion.
I am saying there is no reason for a keyboard to be this steep. Making it so will alienate more customers than it brings in.
The design just doesn't make any sense from a usability point of view (because flatter keyboards are better).
It doesn't make sense from a monetary point of view (A steep keyboard will result in less customers. The vast majority of people do not use steep keyboards).
(PS: The steepness of the keyboard also looks strange, so there is another hit based on a aesthetic point of view.)
It is not as simple as not buying, but rather the seller is trying to pass off a flawed product to many people.
Just my 2 boards in, and Got the DWG file ready, I just need to actually go to my local laser cutting workshop to get my case made.
And choose the color of my Plexiglas, which is going to be the hardest part for me. Do I want to make a case that matches the Toxic keyset I got? or do a plain black/grey or completely clear. Im thinking Clear Yellow mixed with a Clear orange for some "text inlay" on the bottom of the board for fun. Should I write toxic or lightsaver? choices, choices.
This package was extremely well packed. My 2 boards and plates came in a box big enough for 4 whole assembled keyboards, Im very glad I made it in on the last day for ordering.
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=209&mid=board_housing
Some acrylic housing for the L V2
Yup. I use mine with a steep angle. My fingers are shorter than my palms, so I generally prefer to type with a steeper angle than what most would consider ergonomic, and I hate using a palm rest.
Post a picture of your hand.I've posted the dwgs somewhere here. I'll post it when it get home unless someone else beats me to it. ;)
Duck is one person, but the whole project is comprised of TrueCustom and Duck and their employees.
ckar, you are entitled to your incorrect opinions...just be happy with your real force. No need to bash on what you dislike.
Maybe you can make a thread on how you hate steep keyboards rant.
My opinion is correct. Flatter keyboards are better: http://lifehacker.com/leave-your-keyboard-feet-folded-in-for-better-ergonomic-514381372
Yup. I use mine with a steep angle. My fingers are shorter than my palms, so I generally prefer to type with a steeper angle than what most would consider ergonomic, and I hate using a palm rest.
Post a picture of your hand.I've posted the dwgs somewhere here. I'll post it when it get home unless someone else beats me to it. ;)
Duck is one person, but the whole project is comprised of TrueCustom and Duck and their employees.
ckar, you are entitled to your incorrect opinions...just be happy with your real force. No need to bash on what you dislike.
Maybe you can make a thread on how you hate steep keyboards rant.
My opinion is correct. Flatter keyboards are better: http://lifehacker.com/leave-your-keyboard-feet-folded-in-for-better-ergonomic-514381372Show Image(http://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/18rc3dqjq3xanjpg.jpg)
Dear God, you read lifehack? A "blog" that lists the Logitech MKB as the "best" desktop keyboard ahead of other MKBs, and lists the Razer as the "best" mechanical keyboard?
Excellent! Requesting mod intervention on this.
Elton, do you think there will be a chance of another group buy for these in the not-to-distant future? Or, is Duck focusing on other new boards?
Elton, do you think there will be a chance of another group buy for these in the not-to-distant future? Or, is Duck focusing on other new boards?
^ i wouldn't miss it again if there's V3 (Round 3)
Elton, do you think there will be a chance of another group buy for these in the not-to-distant future? Or, is Duck focusing on other new boards?
I'm not including assembly option for PCB only orders. The plate is for the new layout (1800). Will have the same shipping date as the rest of this group buy.
The PCB + plate sits on top of the stand offs.
Hmm I suppose you did. Any idea why Duck decided the "new plate" would have fewer options?
Hmm I suppose you did. Any idea why Duck decided the "new plate" would have fewer options?
I'm guessing they couldn't implement that arrow cluster that the 1800 layout has with the current plate design
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=209&mid=board_housing
Some acrylic housing for the L V2
For the people who want the DWG for the Acrylic Housing.
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=209&mid=board_housing
Some acrylic housing for the L V2
For the people who want the DWG for the Acrylic Housing.
Is anyone able to view this at the proper size? I am trying to have a case made and the size of the layout fits on a 8.5x11 sheet, which is not right.
Is anyone making that little acrylic thing for the bottom LEDs?Also curious about this, I would definitely buy a pair if someone does a small order.
Is anyone making that little acrylic thing for the bottom LEDs?Also curious about this, I would definitely buy a pair if someone does a small order.
If you guys want, I could talk to ACC about doing a small run. I talked with them earlier about doing someIs anyone making that little acrylic thing for the bottom LEDs?Also curious about this, I would definitely buy a pair if someone does a small order.
It was dead until you decided to go and revive it.
I'd be interested in buying into one for the duck viper/eagle (theyre different size) depending on the price. Also would be interested in both a clear and I guess frosted(not sure if that is the term) acrylic sides as shown http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_housing&document_srl=502 .If you guys want, I could talk to ACC about doing a small run. I talked with them earlier about doing someIs anyone making that little acrylic thing for the bottom LEDs?Also curious about this, I would definitely buy a pair if someone does a small order.
personal work for plates... Shawn (the contact from ACC) his brother runs a water jet acrylic cutting place too. I showed
him some GON style cases and he says it wouldn't be a problem to try it out. I don't know if they would look as good, but
might be worth a shot?
If we get through, may I get some pieces for the lightsaver V1 as well as the Eagle/Viper? That would be awesome. :thumb:If you guys want, I could talk to ACC about doing a small run. I talked with them earlier about doing someIs anyone making that little acrylic thing for the bottom LEDs?Also curious about this, I would definitely buy a pair if someone does a small order.
personal work for plates... Shawn (the contact from ACC) his brother runs a water jet acrylic cutting place too. I showed
him some GON style cases and he says it wouldn't be a problem to try it out. I don't know if they would look as good, but
might be worth a shot?
Last update I got from TC was that they were testing each PCB before shipping. There seemed to be some defects with some PCBs so they are trying to fix it right before shipping them. Otherwise they are ready to ship.
Not so great news. Their agency that does the assembly is taking longer than expected. I've got an update it will take up to end of August for assembled sets to ship....if anyone wants a refund on it, let me know.
The rest were shipped today and will have the tracking soon.
Not so great news. Their agency that does the assembly is taking longer than expected. I've got an update it will take up to end of August for assembled sets to ship....if anyone wants a refund on it, let me know.
The rest were shipped today and will have the tracking soon.
Not so great news. Their agency that does the assembly is taking longer than expected. I've got an update it will take up to end of August for assembled sets to ship....if anyone wants a refund on it, let me know.
The rest were shipped today and will have the tracking soon.
Not so great news. Their agency that does the assembly is taking longer than expected. I've got an update it will take up to end of August for assembled sets to ship....if anyone wants a refund on it, let me know.
The rest were shipped today and will have the tracking soon.
I'll assemble one board for free if someone wants to spend the money on double shipping instead (to me, and then to you when I finish).
Not so great news. Their agency that does the assembly is taking longer than expected. I've got an update it will take up to end of August for assembled sets to ship....if anyone wants a refund on it, let me know.
The rest were shipped today and will have the tracking soon.
Not so great news. Their agency that does the assembly is taking longer than expected. I've got an update it will take up to end of August for assembled sets to ship....if anyone wants a refund on it, let me know.
The rest were shipped today and will have the tracking soon.
I'll start the viper/eagle soon as well.
He will have the leftovers shipped before the assembled sets. He said soon so maybe a week.Sweet!
I'll start the viper/eagle soon as well. No assembly option this time.
Aww, man 6 weeks until I see my lightsaver. The struggle is real!
Aww, man 6 weeks until I see my lightsaver. The struggle is real!
Tracking #s has been posted on the spreadsheet for those unassembled sets.
Sorry again for the delay for assembled sets. For that reason, no more assembly in the future.
I'll start the viper/eagle soon as well. No assembly option this time.
Tracking #s has been posted on the spreadsheet for those unassembled sets.
Sorry again for the delay for assembled sets. For that reason, no more assembly in the future.
Elton, the shipping number returns an error.
Works wonders! Thanks!Elton, the shipping number returns an error.
I think you just need to use Korea Post tracking. Try this (http://www.koreapost.go.kr/eng/sub/EMS_Search.jsp?contId=e1020600). It worked for me.
I need me a lightsaver, elton make it happen!
I need me a lightsaver, elton make it happen!
Someone PMd me a while ago offering his spot in the GB, maybe, just maybe you could get it off that guy in the nick of time
Elton make it happen geeze I'm sure you have a couple stored up in your closet
Don't lie to me, make it happenElton make it happen geeze I'm sure you have a couple stored up in your closet
I have one and it's for myself!
HOFF!!! DID WE GET LIGHTSAVERS YET!?!?!?! :-*
I thought we did... :eek:HOFF!!! DID WE GET LIGHTSAVERS YET!?!?!?! :-*
oh yeah, why didn't we combine your order with Hoff's and have it shipped together....it's cheaper...
total GB failure! /sarcasmI thought we did... :eek:HOFF!!! DID WE GET LIGHTSAVERS YET!?!?!?! :-*
oh yeah, why didn't we combine your order with Hoff's and have it shipped together....it's cheaper...
I suggest we scrap it and move onto the viper GB ;D!Seconded.
HOFF!!! DID WE GET LIGHTSAVERS YET!?!?!?! :-*
Elton shipped my lightsaver to tsan, I know it!total GB failure! /sarcasmI thought we did... :eek:HOFF!!! DID WE GET LIGHTSAVERS YET!?!?!?! :-*
oh yeah, why didn't we combine your order with Hoff's and have it shipped together....it's cheaper...
I suggest we scrap it and move onto the viper GB ;D!
I thought we did... :eek:HOFF!!! DID WE GET LIGHTSAVERS YET!?!?!?! :-*
oh yeah, why didn't we combine your order with Hoff's and have it shipped together....it's cheaper...
This means someone payed for my shipping... ? or I don't have one... :'(I thought we did... :eek:HOFF!!! DID WE GET LIGHTSAVERS YET!?!?!?! :-*
oh yeah, why didn't we combine your order with Hoff's and have it shipped together....it's cheaper...
I thought we did too... But the shipping slip in my mailbox indicates otherwise. xD D'oh!
Off to the post office to collect! ;D
This means someone payed for my shipping... ? or I don't have one... :'(I thought we did... :eek:HOFF!!! DID WE GET LIGHTSAVERS YET!?!?!?! :-*
oh yeah, why didn't we combine your order with Hoff's and have it shipped together....it's cheaper...
I thought we did too... But the shipping slip in my mailbox indicates otherwise. xD D'oh!
Off to the post office to collect! ;D
Never got any shipping info either...
it has been renamed! lightsaber 2.0Show Image(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-upRLLLceoD8/U9H9akGlCAI/AAAAAAAAIa8/BH4tN0TD188/s1600/DSC01272.jpg)Show Image(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u1cfDG5RgJw/U9H9bGFutuI/AAAAAAAAIbA/tblL8Ay2CyY/s1600/DSC01305.jpg)
I have received goods but seem plate is error layout?
This is plate photo?
:( :( :(
I can't believe how well this was packaged. It bordered on annoying because there were so many layers of protection. Needless to say everything arrived in perfect condition and I am excited to get building soon. Pictures to come later once I have time to take them.Can we change to old layout???
I can't believe how well this was packaged. It bordered on annoying because there were so many layers of protection. Needless to say everything arrived in perfect condition and I am excited to get building soon. Pictures to come later once I have time to take them.Can we change to old layout???
and why member Bianco in post #726 has the old layout!
We need that layout to build tenkeyless style! :(
because i decide to buy plate to build for TKL! :(I can't believe how well this was packaged. It bordered on annoying because there were so many layers of protection. Needless to say everything arrived in perfect condition and I am excited to get building soon. Pictures to come later once I have time to take them.Can we change to old layout???
and why member Bianco in post #726 has the old layout!
We need that layout to build tenkeyless style! :(
Why do you need the old layout for tenkeyless? I know this one is different than I was expecting too but Elton did mention that we'd be receiving the 1800 plate. I had just forgotten about it when I received my order. This layout has grown on me though. Just need to have my case made and wait for keycaps to arrive.Show Image(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/27/e8y5u9a9.jpg)
because i decide to buy plate to build for TKL! :(I can't believe how well this was packaged. It bordered on annoying because there were so many layers of protection. Needless to say everything arrived in perfect condition and I am excited to get building soon. Pictures to come later once I have time to take them.Can we change to old layout???
and why member Bianco in post #726 has the old layout!
We need that layout to build tenkeyless style! :(
Why do you need the old layout for tenkeyless? I know this one is different than I was expecting too but Elton did mention that we'd be receiving the 1800 plate. I had just forgotten about it when I received my order. This layout has grown on me though. Just need to have my case made and wait for keycaps to arrive.Show Image(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/27/e8y5u9a9.jpg)
and the important reason is i never buy any number kit for any keyset! :(
I have received goods but seem plate is error layout?
This is plate photo?
:( :( :(
What do you mean? This is the new layout plate which you ordered.
This was discussed just a few pages back and it ultimately linked this:I have received goods but seem plate is error layout?
This is plate photo?
:( :( :(
What do you mean? This is the new layout plate which you ordered.
I have thought plate can fit for all layout, I don't think it only for 1800 layout :(
I'm not including assembly option for PCB only orders. The plate is for the new layout (1800). Will have the same shipping date as the rest of this group buy.
The PCB + plate sits on top of the stand offs.
This was discussed just a few pages back and it ultimately linked this:I have received goods but seem plate is error layout?
This is plate photo?
:( :( :(
What do you mean? This is the new layout plate which you ordered.
I have thought plate can fit for all layout, I don't think it only for 1800 layout :(I'm not including assembly option for PCB only orders. The plate is for the new layout (1800). Will have the same shipping date as the rest of this group buy.
The PCB + plate sits on top of the stand offs.
Can I get some help with installing the driver?
After I install the flip program, I run it, then select ATmega3204 device, hit ok. Then unplug the keyboard, hold the flip key while plugging it back. But after I plugged it back, nothing happened. Nothing new is showing in the device manager, except a HID Keyboard Device in the Keyboards section. What did I do wrong?
Hello,
in flip you have to select atmega32u4! On linux there is tmk firmware but this does just support the basic pcb options.
Elton, I use this photo as a reference:Clip those little landing feet off too! I can't stand that mushy feeling you get from them! :mad:Show Image(http://deskthority.net/w/images/7/7e/Cherry_MX_levelling_mechanism_--_PCB_mount%2C_bottom.jpg)
From here (http://deskthority.net/wiki/Stabiliser).
That should at least clue you in to which way those two pieces fit together. And from there, the "non-clipping" part (the one that slides in to the PCB rather than snaps in) goes in the bigger of the two holes. Does that make sense?
Elton, I use this photo as a reference:Clip those little landing feet off too! I can't stand that mushy feeling you get from them! :mad:Show Image(http://deskthority.net/w/images/7/7e/Cherry_MX_levelling_mechanism_--_PCB_mount%2C_bottom.jpg)
From here (http://deskthority.net/wiki/Stabiliser).
That should at least clue you in to which way those two pieces fit together. And from there, the "non-clipping" part (the one that slides in to the PCB rather than snaps in) goes in the bigger of the two holes. Does that make sense?
AH YEAH! BTW I sent everything off yesterday 2 day mail... should be there tomorrow...Elton, I use this photo as a reference:Clip those little landing feet off too! I can't stand that mushy feeling you get from them! :mad:Show Image(http://deskthority.net/w/images/7/7e/Cherry_MX_levelling_mechanism_--_PCB_mount%2C_bottom.jpg)
From here (http://deskthority.net/wiki/Stabiliser).
That should at least clue you in to which way those two pieces fit together. And from there, the "non-clipping" part (the one that slides in to the PCB rather than snaps in) goes in the bigger of the two holes. Does that make sense?
Glad you mentioned that. ;) I clip mine, so I would have probably clipped yours anyway without thinking. :P
Elton, I use this photo as a reference:Clip those little landing feet off too! I can't stand that mushy feeling you get from them! :mad:Show Image(http://deskthority.net/w/images/7/7e/Cherry_MX_levelling_mechanism_--_PCB_mount%2C_bottom.jpg)
From here (http://deskthority.net/wiki/Stabiliser).
That should at least clue you in to which way those two pieces fit together. And from there, the "non-clipping" part (the one that slides in to the PCB rather than snaps in) goes in the bigger of the two holes. Does that make sense?
(http://stream1.gifsoup.com/view1/4433194/huehuehue-o.gif)Elton, I use this photo as a reference:Clip those little landing feet off too! I can't stand that mushy feeling you get from them! :mad:Show Image(http://deskthority.net/w/images/7/7e/Cherry_MX_levelling_mechanism_--_PCB_mount%2C_bottom.jpg)
From here (http://deskthority.net/wiki/Stabiliser).
That should at least clue you in to which way those two pieces fit together. And from there, the "non-clipping" part (the one that slides in to the PCB rather than snaps in) goes in the bigger of the two holes. Does that make sense?
I noticed a noticeable difference on my custom board after doing this. It makes it much better. But you might inquire with the users on if they have a preference...
I have actually read some people here that like the cushion during the pushin...
:-*
- Notes about LED modes:
by default, they are on Function Layer #3, which means press the MFN button 3 times in a quick succession to get to the 3rd function layer, and on the third time hold it and press a number associated with the area on the keyboard you want illuminated (alternatively, if you bind FN3 to some key, press FN3 + number)
1 = Function row LEDs
2 = Modifiers + number row
3 = Alphas
4 = Numpad
5 = Side LEDs
To cycle through different lighting modes, you can press those keys repeatedly. For example holding down FN3 (or having pressed MFN 3 times and holding it), you can keep pressing "3" to cycle through lighting modes for the alphas. Here are the lighting modes, in a cycle:
- All ON
- All OFF
- Breathing with longer dark periods
- Breathing with short dark periods (basically the opposite of the other kind of breathing, if you want to have 2 sections breathing exactly out of sync)
- Reactive ON (off until you push a key, then that section turns on briefly at maximum set brightness)
- Reactive OFF (on until you push a key, then that section turns off briefly)
- Breathing mode where speed varies based on typing speed--starts off breathing quickly then slows dramatically until you begin typing
- Breathing mode where speed varies based on typing speed--reverse of the above (breathing out of sync)
- OFF until you begin typing, then the section turns on gradually the faster you type. Fades back to off once you stop typing.
LED brightness level can be varied with LED D[ow]N and LED UP keys, on the same function layer #3 by default
- Notes about LED modes:
by default, they are on Function Layer #3, which means press the MFN button 3 times in a quick succession to get to the 3rd function layer, and on the third time hold it and press a number associated with the area on the keyboard you want illuminated (alternatively, if you bind FN3 to some key, press FN3 + number)
1 = Function row LEDs
2 = Modifiers + number row
3 = Alphas
4 = Numpad
5 = Side LEDs
To cycle through different lighting modes, you can press those keys repeatedly. For example holding down FN3 (or having pressed MFN 3 times and holding it), you can keep pressing "3" to cycle through lighting modes for the alphas. Here are the lighting modes, in a cycle:
- All ON
- All OFF
- Breathing with longer dark periods
- Breathing with short dark periods (basically the opposite of the other kind of breathing, if you want to have 2 sections breathing exactly out of sync)
- Reactive ON (off until you push a key, then that section turns on briefly at maximum set brightness)
- Reactive OFF (on until you push a key, then that section turns off briefly)
- Breathing mode where speed varies based on typing speed--starts off breathing quickly then slows dramatically until you begin typing
- Breathing mode where speed varies based on typing speed--reverse of the above (breathing out of sync)
- OFF until you begin typing, then the section turns on gradually the faster you type. Fades back to off once you stop typing.
LED brightness level can be varied with LED D[ow]N and LED UP keys, on the same function layer #3 by default
does anyone happen to have close up shots of the blockers? I am curious how they attach.
I did not notice that in the OP or I would have ordered a bunch of them. :(
does anyone happen to have close up shots of the blockers? I am curious how they attach.
I did not notice that in the OP or I would have ordered a bunch of them. :(
it sits on top of the space for the switch.
and screwed in place at the bottom.Show Image(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uxtr1ypK-js/U9h7uHdMPQI/AAAAAAAAIbg/jC2SZd27ARw/s1600/DSC01304.jpg)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/b3DXAok.png)
F5, F5, F5, F5, F5, F5, F5, F5, F5, F5, F5, F5, F5, F5.
Elton, will Duck be open to making additional plates in the future?
Elton, will Duck be open to making additional plates in the future?
haha did you find a buyer if you can get a diff plate?
had a similar problem...
@elton: any chance? :-*
It will be shipped out once they're all assembled. It is easier for them to ship the keyboards out all at once rather than individually one by one. Again, I apologize for the delay.
Here are the pictures of the assembled sets..
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=449172&mid=board_hDJd48
Also,
To adjust the brightness:
You can find the MFN key.
To adjust LED brightness you keep pressing MFN + LED UP(or LED DOWN)
Please make sure you keep pressing the key for a while.
Nice preview of mine:Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/369816/172/449/d8843f7d667a7941a9c9994275b99d9a.jpg)
Is the upper right LED malfunctioning or isn't it supposed to light up?
Here are the pictures of the assembled sets..
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=449172&mid=board_hDJd48
Also,
To adjust the brightness:
You can find the MFN key.
To adjust LED brightness you keep pressing MFN + LED UP(or LED DOWN)
Please make sure you keep pressing the key for a while.
Here are the pictures of the assembled sets..
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=449172&mid=board_hDJd48
Also,
To adjust the brightness:
You can find the MFN key.
To adjust LED brightness you keep pressing MFN + LED UP(or LED DOWN)
Please make sure you keep pressing the key for a while.
Well, no matter how I press the led up or down key, they only serve as led on or off. Do you get brightness other than maximum brightness and off?
I'd be down for another set of plate and PCB at least!Yeah, if elton runs just a pcb/plate buy. I will work a little harder to get those GON style cases made. :p
Maybe somebody should start a Duck support thread for troubleshooting these things.I believe by default the firmware was only flashed with single layer.
It would be nice to find out if these issues are defects or user error. My V2 won't even change layers, much less toggle LED modes. Of course I've followed what instructions I've found.
I think I know which thread you're taking about. Thanks so much for the guide though. I'll try it out this weekend.Maybe somebody should start a Duck support thread for troubleshooting these things.I believe by default the firmware was only flashed with single layer.
It would be nice to find out if these issues are defects or user error. My V2 won't even change layers, much less toggle LED modes. Of course I've followed what instructions I've found.
To add more layers and LED modes u need to do keymapping and flash firmware again.
There's a thread in geekhack media section about lightsaver by photoelectric iinm.
I wrote myself a simple guide thou:
Is there honestly no one with an extra v2 pcb? :pYeah I have an extra PCB but I was kind of hoping to hold on to it to study it's design. Would like to eventually design PCBs myself but who wouldn't. I'll consider letting it go as I really don't have the time to do anything with it for a while. No extra plate though.
Well elton, looks like there's a good amount of interest on GH. Is a R2 a possibility?
Could you ask duck for me pretty please? :-*
[there are about 4 other people who haven't posted here looking for complete v2 kits in classifieds]
Just plugged the one I was delivered in and it says Unknown USB device (device descriptor request failed). Any ideas? Windows 8.
Just plugged the one I was delivered in and it says Unknown USB device (device descriptor request failed). Any ideas? Windows 8.
Uh I think something about Flip and the atmega34u4 driver.
photos thread http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=53942.0
links to the kmac guide [which is very similar] http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49647.0
I think I know which thread you're taking about. Thanks so much for the guide though. I'll try it out this weekend.No prob ;) .
I would be interested in another GB especially for the aluminium case.
Also, has anybody had an acrylic case made for their PCB/plate order? I know a few people with laser cutters but I'm having trouble finding acrylic in the correct thickness. Plus I'd just like to see people's Lightsavers.
I think I know which thread you're taking about. Thanks so much for the guide though. I'll try it out this weekend.No prob ;) .
I would be interested in another GB especially for the aluminium case.
Also, has anybody had an acrylic case made for their PCB/plate order? I know a few people with laser cutters but I'm having trouble finding acrylic in the correct thickness. Plus I'd just like to see people's Lightsavers.
I also hope that I got a chance to get myself v2 pcb and replace my v1 :p
Another round of these would be awesome. Just sayin'. :'(
Welp, setting up the software for the Lightsaber is weird... anyone know how to put media keys in?
Great, another hiccup. Anyone knows how to program the 4-key arrow cluster in the keymapper? It refuses to save my settings...
Pictures tonight when I get home, if need be.
Great, another hiccup. Anyone knows how to program the 4-key arrow cluster in the keymapper? It refuses to save my settings...
Pictures tonight when I get home, if need be.
I ran into the same issue. I had to use the previous version of the firmware to get it to work. Seems like the newest release is a little buggy. If you want media keys, I think the TMK firmware has them. The only issue with that is you lose all of the led effects. On/off for the different zones is the only option.
Given the scant documentation for building this... any recommendations for LED size/voltage?
[)amien
Given the scant documentation for building this... any recommendations for LED size/voltage?
[)amien
All of these have worked for me so far.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221138055543 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/221138055543)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331085659437 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/331085659437)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/320999090387 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/320999090387)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/320999090146 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/320999090146)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/320999089508 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/320999089508)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/320999088871 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/320999088871)
I'm also waiting to receive these less common colours:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Quality-and-High-lightness-100pcs-2x3x4-Rectangular-square-type-sky-blue-color-led-beads-brightness600/2022772817.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Quality-and-High-lightness-100pcs-2x3x4-Rectangular-square-type-sky-blue-color-led-beads-brightness600/2022772817.html)
The only place I found cyan and sky-blue besides Taobao.
Also waiting on these 3528s for the side:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-50pcs-POWER-TOP-SMD-SMT-PLCC-2-1210-3528-purple-LED-New/2001195224.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-50pcs-POWER-TOP-SMD-SMT-PLCC-2-1210-3528-purple-LED-New/2001195224.html)
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bright-3528-ice-blue-instrument-disk-1210-light-blue-smd-led-light-emitting-diode/1857958607.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bright-3528-ice-blue-instrument-disk-1210-light-blue-smd-led-light-emitting-diode/1857958607.html)
Anybody find a real solution for the "?" non-mapping arrow key bug?
EDIT: Also where are people getting their acrylic cases cut? I'm awaiting a quote from an acrylic fabricator in China as places like TAP plastics don't have acrylic in the right thicknesses. I know people with laser cutters but sourcing the acrylic is a problem.
Given the scant documentation for building this... any recommendations for LED size/voltage?
[)amien
All of these have worked for me so far.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221138055543 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/221138055543)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331085659437 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/331085659437)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/320999090387 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/320999090387)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/320999090146 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/320999090146)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/320999089508 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/320999089508)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/320999088871 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/320999088871)
I'm also waiting to receive these less common colours:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Quality-and-High-lightness-100pcs-2x3x4-Rectangular-square-type-sky-blue-color-led-beads-brightness600/2022772817.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Quality-and-High-lightness-100pcs-2x3x4-Rectangular-square-type-sky-blue-color-led-beads-brightness600/2022772817.html)
The only place I found cyan and sky-blue besides Taobao.
Also waiting on these 3528s for the side:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-50pcs-POWER-TOP-SMD-SMT-PLCC-2-1210-3528-purple-LED-New/2001195224.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-50pcs-POWER-TOP-SMD-SMT-PLCC-2-1210-3528-purple-LED-New/2001195224.html)
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bright-3528-ice-blue-instrument-disk-1210-light-blue-smd-led-light-emitting-diode/1857958607.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bright-3528-ice-blue-instrument-disk-1210-light-blue-smd-led-light-emitting-diode/1857958607.html)
Anybody find a real solution for the "?" non-mapping arrow key bug?
EDIT: Also where are people getting their acrylic cases cut? I'm awaiting a quote from an acrylic fabricator in China as places like TAP plastics don't have acrylic in the right thicknesses. I know people with laser cutters but sourcing the acrylic is a problem.
You should be able to use the previous version of the firmware to re-map the arrow keys. They still show up as ? in the software, but I was able to move them successfully.
My suggestion for having an acrylic case made would be to use someone local to you. I had one made, they didn't have the exact sizes of acrylic thickness that are on the cad files, but most of the measurements are close. I think it turned out pretty well.
I will have the tracking #s by tonight or whenever I get them. As for the keymapping software, I have addressed this to them. Hopefully it gets fixed. I haven't played around with it yet as I've been using the default setting up to now. And no LEDs on mine yet as well...pretty bare =\Thanks for doing this. It sucks to compromise with an otherwise great keyboard.
TMK doesn't have the bling options that my friend wants. HE rather have shinies than a good keymap :(
Tracking #s are up
Tracking #s are up
Tracking #s are up
Where are the tracking numbers posted?
Tracking #s are up
Where are the tracking numbers posted?
The #1, check order link:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Akw9rY8oi1o6dDZDVE9IWWc0OGNkc19hcGx6TjN3c2c&single=true&gid=2&output=html
I just received and quickly install everything. By default it's all LEO turned on. Would any1 tell me how to toggle LED mode in v2? I cannot locate the MFN button -_-!
just got LS2 as well , however i would like to know what screws does those blockers use ? it didn't come with my package. Anybody able to let me know where can i buy them ?
The key mapping software is not very good at this time - I gave it a couple of tries, but in the end decided to use TMK firmware (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=41989.0). Highly recommend using that if you're comfortable with the process of editing config files in text, building via Makefile/GCC and flashing using FLIP.
The key mapping software is not very good at this time - I gave it a couple of tries, but in the end decided to use TMK firmware (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=41989.0). Highly recommend using that if you're comfortable with the process of editing config files in text, building via Makefile/GCC and flashing using FLIP.
Why is the Duck software bad and why is the TMK firmware better? I'm asking because I am getting my Duck Viper soon and want to do the right thing.
Thx for making this happen Elton ! :)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3924/14952230998_81d14cf534_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/oMh6mb)
TrueCustom is going to translate the instruction over the next few days. If it's not working after the translation, I'm going to lend him my LS2 for him to fix the problem, if that helps.. He said none of the Koreans have problem with it, so it should just be a translation problem. Let's see. :)
MFN button should be on the right of F12. Hold it and press F6 (+?) F7 (-?).It doesn't work. I think I should flash a custom firmware to enable the MFN button.
I received my LS2 and I'm also curious about how to change the led brightness/modes. I tried the steps you posted to adjust the brightness but it doesn't work. Looking forward to the translated instructions to see if that helps any. Thanks again Elton =)MFN key doesn't do any thing with brightness/LED modes.
I received my LS2 and I'm also curious about how to change the led brightness/modes. I tried the steps you posted to adjust the brightness but it doesn't work. Looking forward to the translated instructions to see if that helps any. Thanks again Elton =)MFN key doesn't do any thing with brightness/LED modes.
You just need to have Different LED modes keys, LED Ctrl and LED Up/Dn on desired layer.
Hold LED Ctrl and press any LED modes that u wish to control the brightness, after that just press and hold LED Up/Dn for a few seconds u will observe brightness increases/decreases.
Elton, I was under the impression that the new plate supports the 1800-layout. Mine doesn't seem to be able to do so...
Please stop ignoring my PMs. This is getting a little distressing :(
http://imgur.com/LxXu8s2That looks like the older plate.
http://imgur.com/LxXu8s2That looks like the older plate.
Question: My + and - keys on the numberpad (in 1800 layout) are giving the same scancodes (P+ 107 on the 02d keymapper, and 0x6B, BIOS 0x4E on EK's Switch hitter software). Is this a glitch? Or just how it was programmed by who built it?
Also, the board feels great to type on. Thanks for running this elton! Did anyone else put a pad between the the pcb and the case? I used the foam material that the case was wrapped in to get rid of as much air space as possible.
When I try to keymapping the Light saver, I got the runtime error 53 - File not foundAre you running it as an administrator?
02D_KeyMapper_Custom
any help?
Here's a tutorial for the layout editing tutorial. Hope this helps.
@sakai4eva I'll let them know.
Ah, if I change the locale to Korea, the arrows show up, and I can map them.The locale? In windows for character encoding?
See image:Ah, if I change the locale to Korea, the arrows show up, and I can map them.The locale? In windows for character encoding?
Where can one download KeyMapper v1.5.334_RGB?
The highest version I can find is v1.5.333
EDIT: Nevermind, had some trouble navigating the site in Korean.
Quick question, is there something I need to enable in Windows to get the arrows to show up in the keymapper?
Is it like a problem displaying the character?
Because they're just question marks.
Where is FN1~FN3 by default in layer 1? Or, if anyone knows of a way to download the current firmware from the lightsaver and view the key mappings that would be helpful as well. I only see 'Firmware Upload' in the O2D KeyMapper, no option to download.Nevermind, I just remapped the layout and flashed the firmware.
Does anyone know what the MFN button does? It appears to do the same function as FN1?
Here:Where can one download KeyMapper v1.5.334_RGB?
The highest version I can find is v1.5.333
EDIT: Nevermind, had some trouble navigating the site in Korean.
Quick question, is there something I need to enable in Windows to get the arrows to show up in the keymapper?
Is it like a problem displaying the character?
Because they're just question marks.
Can you send the link please?
Here:Where can one download KeyMapper v1.5.334_RGB?
The highest version I can find is v1.5.333
EDIT: Nevermind, had some trouble navigating the site in Korean.
Quick question, is there something I need to enable in Windows to get the arrows to show up in the keymapper?
Is it like a problem displaying the character?
Because they're just question marks.
Can you send the link please?
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=309373&mid=board_sw
It's near the bottom.
Anyone get text or action macros working?
Here:Where can one download KeyMapper v1.5.334_RGB?
The highest version I can find is v1.5.333
EDIT: Nevermind, had some trouble navigating the site in Korean.
Quick question, is there something I need to enable in Windows to get the arrows to show up in the keymapper?
Is it like a problem displaying the character?
Because they're just question marks.
Can you send the link please?
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=309373&mid=board_sw
It's near the bottom.
Anyone get text or action macros working?
@elton; can we continue the plate discussion via e-mail or PM? I don't check threads that often anymore :(
@elton; can we continue the plate discussion via e-mail or PM? I don't check threads that often anymore :(
Yes, I'll PM you an update when I receive news on it.
Btw, can you please stop using that emoticon on every post? It's getting annoying...
Looks like it has support for RGB switches.Here:Where can one download KeyMapper v1.5.334_RGB?
The highest version I can find is v1.5.333
EDIT: Nevermind, had some trouble navigating the site in Korean.
Quick question, is there something I need to enable in Windows to get the arrows to show up in the keymapper?
Is it like a problem displaying the character?
Because they're just question marks.
Can you send the link please?
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=309373&mid=board_sw
It's near the bottom.
Anyone get text or action macros working?
What's the RGB version for?
Got mine yesterday!, won't be building it fully till I move in 10 days, anyone got any ideas for a black/green themed keycap set, or any other ideas I have the silver base also need to buy a usb wire.. thinking going with Zeal's green and black
Got mine yesterday!, won't be building it fully till I move in 10 days, anyone got any ideas for a black/green themed keycap set, or any other ideas I have the silver base also need to buy a usb wire.. thinking going with Zeal's green and black
Have you checked out Toxic set?
It would take sometime to find one now though
R2 DSA I hope, I hope, I hope...I second this. There are still rumors floating around about the toxic r2 right?Got mine yesterday!, won't be building it fully till I move in 10 days, anyone got any ideas for a black/green themed keycap set, or any other ideas I have the silver base also need to buy a usb wire.. thinking going with Zeal's green and black
Have you checked out Toxic set?
It would take sometime to find one now though
I think the RGB version of 02D firmware is for rgb backlit under the pcb by jumping wires, I have only seen korean done this demo on Orion PCB with Unicorn housing. The light effects are awesome :thumb: .Any link to the demo? I'm curious but I don't understand how it's done.
R2 DSA I hope, I hope, I hope...I second this. There are still rumors floating around about the toxic r2 right?Got mine yesterday!, won't be building it fully till I move in 10 days, anyone got any ideas for a black/green themed keycap set, or any other ideas I have the silver base also need to buy a usb wire.. thinking going with Zeal's green and black
Have you checked out Toxic set?
It would take sometime to find one now though
I second this. There are still rumors floating around about the toxic r2 right?
Any link to the demo? I'm curious but I don't understand how it's done.There's a link above shared by StylinGreymon ;)
Here's a tutorial for the layout editing tutorial. Hope this helps.
@sakai4eva I'll let them know.
Does anyone know exactly how the FNLayer's work? I can't figure out how it knows that on FNLayer1 that it should perform LED Brightness only but on FNLayer3 it knows to dance through the various lighting schemes while keeping in mind that I only see one set of LED commands in the firmware which are already assigned in FNLayer1.
Does anyone know exactly how the FNLayer's work? I can't figure out how it knows that on FNLayer1 that it should perform LED Brightness only but on FNLayer3 it knows to dance through the various lighting schemes while keeping in mind that I only see one set of LED commands in the firmware which are already assigned in FNLayer1.
Hold the FN1 (which is assigned in your current layer, say Layer 1) + press LED UP or LED DN (which is assigned in FNLayer1) to adjust LED brightness.
Hold the FN3 (which is assigned in your current layer, say Layer 1) + press LED Func (which is assigned in FNLayer3) to change the LED mode of your F-keys.
etc...
MFN key is useful to trigger FN key. E.g. press MFN three times within a second and then hold it = directly hold FN3.
So that you can use 1 single key (MFN) to perform FN1 - FN3 keys.
Finally figured out my file save problem (default file name not windows friendly), and the firmware that it came with had multiple keys flashed to the same key (hence my 2 Number pad "+ triggers). I've been getting exercise carrying it around in my backpack, using it with my Surface Pro 2. I've already got some scratches on it, and will just let that happen. I like my gear having some wear and tear on them. :thumb:
potato pic:
(Attachment Link)
Thanks again!
Finally figured out my file save problem (default file name not windows friendly), and the firmware that it came with had multiple keys flashed to the same key (hence my 2 Number pad "+ triggers). I've been getting exercise carrying it around in my backpack, using it with my Surface Pro 2. I've already got some scratches on it, and will just let that happen. I like my gear having some wear and tear on them. :thumb:(http://img1.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20130315142738/warriorcatclansrp/images/8/8a/Fap-l.png)
potato pic:
(Attachment Link)
Thanks again!
If anyone is having trouble creating macros, TrueCustom is translating the instruction for it atm. I'll post it when it's ready.Awesome.
ok, so...
The default led toggles are INS and F6 and F7?
I'm not getting anything when I hold down INS and press and hold F6 or F7.
I haven't flashed anything, this is still default. I just popped on some keys to test it.
well, i tried a link that elton suggested a few pages back, but i can't get the o2d mapper to connect...
yes.
I think my issue is that i need to remap and save before i do that.
But I have no idea how to do a correct mapping or one that makes sense.
Could someone perhaps share their hex?
I just need access to the led modes and such, dont care for macors and other stuffs.
EDIT: im on a winkey layout, with insert, delete,home, end, page up and page down going from left to right after the F12 key.
Thanks in advance,
-Blacke
Digi is the man!
Also, how bout them acrylic side pieces?
Anyone know a shop or somebody that sells them?
I found one minor bug in the v1.5.333 keymapp. If all LEDs are turned off by the 'LED CTRL', the num lock key LED cannot light on.
I have to turn on the LED by 'LED CTRL' -> press num lock key twice to get it back.
dragonken
Whoo! I ordered a Lightsaver V2 today from GB outside of this site.And where would that be? If you don't mind telling.
Whoo! I ordered a Lightsaver V2 today from GB outside of this site.And where would that be? If you don't mind telling.
grabbed a colepack and deep beats. added 1 more of space bar to my order
Whoo! I ordered a Lightsaver V2 today from GB outside of this site.And where would that be? If you don't mind telling.
yeah, is this legit?
i mean i have mine pretty close to secured [minus my funds D:] but that seems interesting, maybe I could use another case or pcb....
Yeah, it is for real. Take a look at the GB: http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_gb_do&document_srl=412282 (http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_gb_do&document_srl=412282).
I am waiting for his reply if i can give you his email. I'd be glad to help you. Just wait. He said he has few left.
In regards to the keymapping software, is there a way to choose which character resides on the 'shift layer'? (I dunno what you actually call it)
Take ;: for example.
Is there a way to make it so I have to press shift for ; and have : be the default?
Currently I achieve this just fine with xmodmap, so it's no big deal, but it'd be great to have a keyboard-side solution.
That seems a little unwieldy...In regards to the keymapping software, is there a way to choose which character resides on the 'shift layer'? (I dunno what you actually call it)
Take ;: for example.
Is there a way to make it so I have to press shift for ; and have : be the default?
Currently I achieve this just fine with xmodmap, so it's no big deal, but it'd be great to have a keyboard-side solution.
I think what you might be looking to do is put : on layer 1 & ; on layer 2 then just map the layer toggle or layer number to any key you want, does that work?
That seems a little unwieldy...In regards to the keymapping software, is there a way to choose which character resides on the 'shift layer'? (I dunno what you actually call it)
Take ;: for example.
Is there a way to make it so I have to press shift for ; and have : be the default?
Currently I achieve this just fine with xmodmap, so it's no big deal, but it'd be great to have a keyboard-side solution.
I think what you might be looking to do is put : on layer 1 & ; on layer 2 then just map the layer toggle or layer number to any key you want, does that work?
It'd throw off all my layers a little.
If that's the solution, would that mean that I'd need to set every secondary character like that?
I haven't been able to get macros working at all with my Light Pad, and I won't have another Duck board to try them on until I get my Viper, so I dunno if that'll work.That seems a little unwieldy...In regards to the keymapping software, is there a way to choose which character resides on the 'shift layer'? (I dunno what you actually call it)
Take ;: for example.
Is there a way to make it so I have to press shift for ; and have : be the default?
Currently I achieve this just fine with xmodmap, so it's no big deal, but it'd be great to have a keyboard-side solution.
I think what you might be looking to do is put : on layer 1 & ; on layer 2 then just map the layer toggle or layer number to any key you want, does that work?
It'd throw off all my layers a little.
If that's the solution, would that mean that I'd need to set every secondary character like that?
I haven't had a chance and tinker with macro's in the software but that might be what you're looking for?
I can get the side inserts for $4 a pair. I'll make an order form tomorrow.May we have options for lightsaver v1 and orion?
Only normal ones, not sand blasted (frosted) ones.
I'll cover all their keyboard that can use the inserts.Sweet, thanks Elton. :thumb:
What's the major advantage of these inserts?
Is the light spread better? Can somepne provide comparison pics please?
I am not sure if I need these for my Lightsaver V2 :p
You can see the difference in photoelectric's album.
https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/photoelectric_effect/sets/72157640117516876/
You can see the difference in photoelectric's album.
https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/photoelectric_effect/sets/72157640117516876/
Those keys are insatiable. Is that some combo of old typewriter keys and newer keys? Loving the "Interrupt" and "Delete" key beneath it.
So sad I missed this group buy.
Any chance of a round 2?
I think those keycaps are from WEY HK2000, you might find more info hereYou can see the difference in photoelectric's album.
https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/photoelectric_effect/sets/72157640117516876/
Those keys are insatiable. Is that some combo of old typewriter keys and newer keys? Loving the "Interrupt" and "Delete" key beneath it.
Where does one purchase these "insatiable" keycaps? But seriously - those were a great find. Anyone know where to find these or something similar?
Would buy it INSTANTLY if there was round 2.So sad I missed this group buy.
Any chance of a round 2?
This... so much this.
Here is the tutorial on how to set up macros.
do you guys prefer to pay the shipping fee when I get them?
I forgot to mention that I would prefer you guys send me the payment for the acrylic side inserts via gift payment instead of me having to invoice you guys (over 50 right now).
I'll probably stop collecting after next weekend, so we can have this in our hands quicker.
Each set is $4 + whatever gift payment fee you would have to pay to send the money to me.
Make sure you make a note stating your username, name, etc on the comment so I know who you are
I think you guys who ordered from me before have my paypal email already. If you don't send me a PM.
EDIT: I FORGOT ABOUT THE SHIPPING...
I still don't know the exact amount yet..do you guys prefer to pay the shipping fee when I get them?
Ok, I can safely say these prices are right.. This is with the cheapest option with padded envelope. If you want a better shipping option, let me know. I'm going to add $0.75 per order for these to ship to me.
Canada: up to 6 sets - $3
US: up to 3 sets - $4.50
up to 6 sets - $6
International: up to 3 sets - $7
up to 6 sets - $11
To send me money
= # of sets ($4 per set) + shipping to you (above) + shipping to me ($0.75) + PayPal Gift Fee
Since I live in Asia,
wouldn't it cost me less if I get it send out straight from Korea?
would it be from Korea though? lol
I'm not in China but I really want a light saver v2 haha
I'm not in China but I really want a light saver v2 haha
How many out there are still interested in buying a V2? Should we start and interest check and buy the 17 Lightsavers from the cancelled order?Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes please.
How many out there are still interested in buying a V2? Should we start and interest check and buy the 17 Lightsavers from the cancelled order?
How many out there are still interested in buying a V2? Should we start and interest check and buy the 17 Lightsavers from the cancelled order?
Interested
I don't know who would manage the group buy but I could at least start and interest check thread. Elton doesn't think there would be enough if us to warrant a GB and he might be right. I'm told we need at least 20 orders - 30 ideally.I would buy one if it got to that stage.
Here's the post with the tutorial
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56877.msg1465443#msg1465443
Just curious,I used the thin packing material that the keyboard was wrapped in. The neoprene layer I put in my phantom was too thick to fit.
Did anyone feel the need to put shelf liner in their lightsaver?
Just curious,
Did anyone feel the need to put shelf liner in their lightsaver?
does no one want/need/able to use this board in BIOS/GRUB modes?This sounds troubling.
So this is a general problem, I have the same issue with faceU ps2avr board. For my board I found a workaround, if the board is connected to a powered USB hub it works also in BIOS/GRUBdoes no one want/need/able to use this board in BIOS/GRUB modes?This sounds troubling.
Is it a LightSaver-specific quirk, or do all Duck boards suffer from this?
I'd hate to have to keep a second board connected just for reboots.
Just curious,
Did anyone feel the need to put shelf liner in their lightsaver?
Just curious,
Did anyone feel the need to put shelf liner in their lightsaver?
Absolutely. I also have thin silicone o-rings between the case stand-offs and the PCB, as without them, I don't like how rigid the typing experience is. It sounded very metallic before all that and felt too rigid when typing, even on cushiony stock Clears.
I finally set mine up this weekend!
The only problem I'm encountering is that the scroll lock is not working on my Mac. This works on other keyboards, it looks like the keycode might be the wrong one (odd as it works on my PC).
I need to have scroll lock work as I went with the layout without dedicated arrow keys (need them on my numpad). I was wondering if I could fake a scroll lock by using some kind of a function toggle key but I don't see that in the mapper for the LightSaver v1.x, I do see one in the v1.9a but the keyboard didn't work after I flashed it with that. Back to a v1.x one and it works, but still no scroll lock in Mac.
Did anyone run into this?
I finally set mine up this weekend!
The only problem I'm encountering is that the scroll lock is not working on my Mac. This works on other keyboards, it looks like the keycode might be the wrong one (odd as it works on my PC).
I need to have scroll lock work as I went with the layout without dedicated arrow keys (need them on my numpad). I was wondering if I could fake a scroll lock by using some kind of a function toggle key but I don't see that in the mapper for the LightSaver v1.x, I do see one in the v1.9a but the keyboard didn't work after I flashed it with that. Back to a v1.x one and it works, but still no scroll lock in Mac.
Did anyone run into this?
I haven't tested this or encountered this problem but have you tried the trick of setting your windows localization to korean? It's what was preventing some people from having functioning arrows and I suspect the scroll lock might be the same issue.
If you've already tried forgive me and contrats on your lightsaver.
Alright, upon further investigation it definitely seems like this is a Mac issue, and I guess I remembered wrong because none of my custom boards have a working Num Lock on Mac!!
Is there any way to toggle a function layer on? I see that the 1.9a firmware has a FN TOGGLE switch option. Is there any way to do that with the 1.x? I could basically make my own Num Lock mode like this. I don't want to have to keep the Function key pressed...
Alright, upon further investigation it definitely seems like this is a Mac issue, and I guess I remembered wrong because none of my custom boards have a working Num Lock on Mac!!
Is there any way to toggle a function layer on? I see that the 1.9a firmware has a FN TOGGLE switch option. Is there any way to do that with the 1.x? I could basically make my own Num Lock mode like this. I don't want to have to keep the Function key pressed...
This I can help you with!
For clarity sake, Lightsaver has Layer 1, 2, 3, 4 and Layer FN 1, 2, 3.
Edit:
Ly 1-4 will set your keyboard to Layer 1-4 respectively.
If you set your Num Lock to "Ly 2" and then on Layer 2 set Num Lock to "Ly 1" I believe you'll get the effect you're looking for.
Layer TG is layer toggle.(not sure how it works) Layer CH is layer change.(Pretty sure it moves to the next layer. Ly+1)MFN is the key you're looking for.
(old info kept for others to see)
Info for others.
If you hold MFN you access the Layer FN 1.
MFN, I have concluded, stands for multi-function.
If you press the MFN key twice, and hold it on the second press, you access Layer FN 2;
on the third press, you get Layer FN 3.
How do you get back to Layer 1 with the MFN key?
Alright, upon further investigation it definitely seems like this is a Mac issue, and I guess I remembered wrong because none of my custom boards have a working Num Lock on Mac!!
Is there any way to toggle a function layer on? I see that the 1.9a firmware has a FN TOGGLE switch option. Is there any way to do that with the 1.x? I could basically make my own Num Lock mode like this. I don't want to have to keep the Function key pressed...
This I can help you with!
For clarity sake, Lightsaver has Layer 1, 2, 3, 4 and Layer FN 1, 2, 3.
Edit:
Ly 1-4 will set your keyboard to Layer 1-4 respectively.
If you set your Num Lock to "Ly 2" and then on Layer 2 set Num Lock to "Ly 1" I believe you'll get the effect you're looking for.
Layer TG is layer toggle.(not sure how it works) Layer CH is layer change.(Pretty sure it moves to the next layer. Ly+1)MFN is the key you're looking for.
(old info kept for others to see)
Info for others.
If you hold MFN you access the Layer FN 1.
MFN, I have concluded, stands for multi-function.
If you press the MFN key twice, and hold it on the second press, you access Layer FN 2;
on the third press, you get Layer FN 3.
Awesome, thanks! I'll be giving this a shot tonight, will report back :)
There are 2 modes in which that LED can be: either blinking every 2 seconds to let you know which layer you are in at all times or you can change it to only show you the layer number when changing into that layer, and then that LED will remain off until the next layer change. To switch between these two modes:
LLB: default LED Blink mode (every 2 seconds)
LLN: "Normal" LED mode (off until changing layers)
- Enter Control Mode (press the C/M button); the Layer Status LED should be lit now without blinking
- type LLN (or LLB) and press Enter
- Exit Control Mode by pressing Esc
wondering when will next GB be for this board again
wondering when will next GB be for this board again
wondering when will next GB be for this board again
Yes, this layout looks rad. I missed the first round as well.
Same, this is my most wanted keyboard.
If another GB happens I'm all in. But I'm also keen to see what Duck comes up with next after the Octagon 75%.
Also interested in getting in on a GB for this.
Hi elton can i buy the inserts for my lightsaver v2 since you have extras. u were supposed to invoice me but it didnt happen...
As for another group buy for the lightsaver v2s, they want at least 30 orders to even consider. I'm not sure if we can get that many. 30 may fill in the order form, but will they all pay..?
As for another group buy for the lightsaver v2s, they want at least 30 orders to even consider. I'm not sure if we can get that many. 30 may fill in the order form, but will they all pay..?
As for another group buy for the lightsaver v2s, they want at least 30 orders to even consider. I'm not sure if we can get that many. 30 may fill in the order form, but will they all pay..?
As for another group buy for the lightsaver v2s, they want at least 30 orders to even consider. I'm not sure if we can get that many. 30 may fill in the order form, but will they all pay..?
I am perfectly good with that. I'm sure most people will be too!As for another group buy for the lightsaver v2s, they want at least 30 orders to even consider. I'm not sure if we can get that many. 30 may fill in the order form, but will they all pay..?
@elton: thank you for the info.
Yeah 30 is a lot of full kits. I'll try an IC after the new year when everyone's wallets have recovered from Christmas.
I think we could get 30 orders next spring, might even get another one myself. :rolleyes:
For everyone interested, hold your breath until the new year and we'll see if we can't round up 30 people in February/march.
As for another group buy for the lightsaver v2s, they want at least 30 orders to even consider. I'm not sure if we can get that many. 30 may fill in the order form, but will they all pay..?
@elton: thank you for the info.
Yeah 30 is a lot of full kits. I'll try an IC after the new year when everyone's wallets have recovered from Christmas.
I think we could get 30 orders next spring, might even get another one myself. :rolleyes:
For everyone interested, hold your breath until the new year and we'll see if we can't round up 30 people in February/march.
As for another group buy for the lightsaver v2s, they want at least 30 orders to even consider. I'm not sure if we can get that many. 30 may fill in the order form, but will they all pay..?
@elton: thank you for the info.
Yeah 30 is a lot of full kits. I'll try an IC after the new year when everyone's wallets have recovered from Christmas.
I think we could get 30 orders next spring, might even get another one myself. :rolleyes:
For everyone interested, hold your breath until the new year and we'll see if we can't round up 30 people in February/march.
that sounds good, let all wallets recover a bit ;)
As for another group buy for the lightsaver v2s, they want at least 30 orders to even consider. I'm not sure if we can get that many. 30 may fill in the order form, but will they all pay..?
Seems a few people, including myself, are interested in a PCB+Plate combo. Would a GB for just those items be possible? This would drive the cost down and make it easier to manage (I assume since I have no experience doing this). A lower price on a unique (and amazing) layout would probably entice more members to join.
As for another group buy for the lightsaver v2s, they want at least 30 orders to even consider. I'm not sure if we can get that many. 30 may fill in the order form, but will they all pay..?
@elton: thank you for the info.
Yeah 30 is a lot of full kits. I'll try an IC after the new year when everyone's wallets have recovered from Christmas.
I think we could get 30 orders next spring, might even get another one myself. :rolleyes:
For everyone interested, hold your breath until the new year and we'll see if we can't round up 30 people in February/march.
As for another group buy for the lightsaver v2s, they want at least 30 orders to even consider. I'm not sure if we can get that many. 30 may fill in the order form, but will they all pay..?
@elton: thank you for the info.
Yeah 30 is a lot of full kits. I'll try an IC after the new year when everyone's wallets have recovered from Christmas.
I think we could get 30 orders next spring, might even get another one myself. :rolleyes:
For everyone interested, hold your breath until the new year and we'll see if we can't round up 30 people in February/march.
that sounds good, let all wallets recover a bit ;)
Hi Elton . pmed u my address n email for invoice :) thank u
Hi Elton . pmed u my address n email for invoice :) thank u
I PM'd you if it's for one set of lightsaver v2 inserts..
Regarding another round of lightsavers, maybe in several months.
Regarding another round of lightsavers, maybe in several months.
Seems a few people, including myself, are interested in a PCB+Plate combo. Would a GB for just those items be possible? This would drive the cost down and make it easier to manage (I assume since I have no experience doing this). A lower price on a unique (and amazing) layout would probably entice more members to join.
Seems a few people, including myself, are interested in a PCB+Plate combo. Would a GB for just those items be possible? This would drive the cost down and make it easier to manage (I assume since I have no experience doing this). A lower price on a unique (and amazing) layout would probably entice more members to join.
dude not just pcb and plate.... we want the case too cause it looks bad ass
Seems a few people, including myself, are interested in a PCB+Plate combo. Would a GB for just those items be possible? This would drive the cost down and make it easier to manage (I assume since I have no experience doing this). A lower price on a unique (and amazing) layout would probably entice more members to join.Seems a few people, including myself, are interested in a PCB+Plate combo. Would a GB for just those items be possible? This would drive the cost down and make it easier to manage (I assume since I have no experience doing this). A lower price on a unique (and amazing) layout would probably entice more members to join.
dude not just pcb and plate.... we want the case too cause it looks bad ass
The reason I believe is mostly that duck does not want to offer just pcbs and plates.
They were an add-on to the full group buy last time. I believe it is encouraged to buy a full kit.
That said, there were DWGs available on his site to have your own acrylic case cut, so maybe PCB/PLATE was always intended.
Regardless, I'll be PMing each and every one of you [being everyone expressing interest thus far] come the start of Feb.
Hi Elton. Yes the inserts are for my light saver version 2 .. Do you have inserts for three butterfly pad as well ? I'll buy one set of each than youHi Elton . pmed u my address n email for invoice :) thank u
I PM'd you if it's for one set of lightsaver v2 inserts..
Regarding another round of lightsavers, maybe in several months.
Are there any significant number of people that are interested in another round of V2? I was debating getting in on the Octagon buy... but I'd much much rather have a Lightsaver for the money -- it's just so unique/different. I already have a few 75% boards... I just wanted one with an aluminum case... but the Lightsaver... that's just.... yeah. Maybe I should hold out and pray for a lightsaver buy to come around...
That sounds amazing! Thank you btw. I must have missed that, I did go through and read the thread before posting, but probably didn't see that part.
I'll probably hold off on the Octagon and then get in on the Lightsaver properly :D awesome I'm excited that there's a chance of this happening again. These Duck buys have seemed to have a really good success rate and turnover time, so I'm really stoked at the reality of getting one.
BTW for the octagon and for any of the duck buys in the past, when they do group buys, are the cases available to buy separately?
?
That sounds amazing! Thank you btw. I must have missed that, I did go through and read the thread before posting, but probably didn't see that part.
I'll probably hold off on the Octagon and then get in on the Lightsaver properly :D awesome I'm excited that there's a chance of this happening again. These Duck buys have seemed to have a really good success rate and turnover time, so I'm really stoked at the reality of getting one.
BTW for the octagon and for any of the duck buys in the past, when they do group buys, are the cases available to buy separately?
?
Personally I would pass on the Octagon in favor of a light saver. It is just so much more unique!
BTW, do you know the name of this layout?Looks a lot like this board (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=61714.0). The Smart 68 layout. But it lacks the extra left row. You could ask the girl in the video. ;)
I love it but have never seen it on another keyboard before. It's like a 75% without the F-row, and then one more column of keys on the left. Which is perfect. I don't use the F-row enough to warrant dedicating keys to it. Fn+Number row is adequate for my usage. The Leopold 660m/c almost hit the nail on the head for me, except ins and delete are the two least used keys from the formatting cluster I use. I do a lot of text editing so home/end are essential to me, and page up and down are very nice to have. I've yet to see that floating around here.
That sounds amazing! Thank you btw. I must have missed that, I did go through and read the thread before posting, but probably didn't see that part.
I'll probably hold off on the Octagon and then get in on the Lightsaver properly :D awesome I'm excited that there's a chance of this happening again. These Duck buys have seemed to have a really good success rate and turnover time, so I'm really stoked at the reality of getting one.
BTW for the octagon and for any of the duck buys in the past, when they do group buys, are the cases available to buy separately?
?
Personally I would pass on the Octagon in favor of a light saver. It is just so much more unique!
Yeah, thats exactly why. I have an MX-Mini, and GON just put out his NERD MX-Mini which I'm wanting for the Nerdy GUI support... on top of that, I still have a Keycool84 w/browns around as as backup/lender, so already gonna have enough 75% boards... can't really justify the cost -- especially when you factor in that without stabilizers, you're gonna have to order them shipped expensive from GON or imsto or someone. ...
Had the MX-Minis not been available, I may have considered going out on a limb for it because I do love the 75% layout (possibly my favorite layout?) but the Lightsaver is so unique and there's so many possibilities with it. It's a gorgeous board and there's just nothing like it out there. I would definitely love to add one to my collection. Once "all the smoke settles" I think that's one of the boards I'd like to still be owning. That and some kind of mx-mini.
BTW, do you know the name of this layout?
I love it but have never seen it on another keyboard before. It's like a 75% without the F-row, and then one more column of keys on the left. Which is perfect. I don't use the F-row enough to warrant dedicating keys to it. Fn+Number row is adequate for my usage. The Leopold 660m/c almost hit the nail on the head for me, except ins and delete are the two least used keys from the formatting cluster I use. I do a lot of text editing so home/end are essential to me, and page up and down are very nice to have. I've yet to see that floating around here.
Back on topic anyways, LIGHTSAVER LIGHTSAVER LIGHTSAVER CHOOOODAI! GIMME!
I'm trying my hand at programming my Orion at the moment... but I am failing hard. And since the Lightsaver uses the same software I thought I'd ask here.
Using the O2D keymapper (http://duck0113.tistory.com/category/%E2%98%85Firmware%20Program) I figured out where the flip key is but I have been unable to do any programming. Seriously no idea how.
I believe TrueCustom was working on a proper translation?
Do you think that the v3 will support ALPS? I would totally be down for that.
Do you think that the v3 will support ALPS? I would totally be down for that.
I'll keep an eye out for you in my travels on OTD and KBDlab.
Consider your interest registered over there.
Out of curiosity How are you guys affixing the acrylics to the case?Well, you are in luck since I decided to make a simple guide using my Orion.
I have a couple of pairs so I'm looking for a semi permanent solution. (Going to try sanding a pair to get that diffused look)
Show ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageOut of curiosity How are you guys affixing the acrylics to the case?Well, you are in luck since I decided to make a simple guide using my Orion.
I have a couple of pairs so I'm looking for a semi permanent solution. (Going to try sanding a pair to get that diffused look)
Ingredients:
- Chef's hat
- A flat surface
- A thin clear double sided tape (I used Scotch 3M photo & document tape (http://products3.3m.com/catalog/au/en005/office/office/node_GSDST0F6L0gs/root_D58K9TX3VWgv/vroot_G3SJG25V2Hge/bgel_5VDGDXS87Tbl/gvel_WMK00LBHNRgl/theme_au_office_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html))
- 400 Grit sandpaper (I prefer the waterproof version for less dust and a smoother finish)
- Painters tape (to hold everything in place
- Water & paper towel (for cleaning in between sanding and/or to put on the sandpaper)
#1
Attach everything to the surface you will be working on.
(http://i.imgur.com/3mGowjXh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/3mGowjX)
The piece in the middle is the sandpaper.
#2
Prepare your acrylic pieces
(http://i.imgur.com/lGKAwROh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/lGKAwRO)
Clean them first and remove the protective tape on the sides.
#3
Start sanding
(http://i.imgur.com/Xvbanlzh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/Xvbanlz)
Sand using a light pressure and preferably using a circular motion. You will notice that the larger area will take the most time because it takes a while to completely flatten it.
If you are using a lower/rougher grit (let's say all you can get is grit 100) end by making a side by side movement to align the scratches in the material. You won't notice them when they are mounted but we want some quality on these high end keyboards don't we?
(http://i.imgur.com/e4OXn4wh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/e4OXn4w)
Keep going
(http://i.imgur.com/BQ2Uaxch.jpg) (http://imgur.com/BQ2Uaxc)
Sides as well
(http://i.imgur.com/rCZqnkjh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/rCZqnkj)
Things are getting messy with the water but it actually aids in achieving a smooth finish
#4
Clean up.
Just make sure you wash your sanded pieces under some running water to get rid of all the dust you will have created. Maybe use a bit of dish soap to get rid of any grease so it attaches properly
#5
Stick it in
(http://i.imgur.com/NNmdHuPh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/NNmdHuP)
Clean the underside and remove those greasy fingerprints
(http://i.imgur.com/RCkX9Bzh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/RCkX9Bz)
Cut the double sided tape to size and stick it on (This is actually the most annoying part)
(http://i.imgur.com/je4UamIh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/je4UamI)
Remove the protective sheet
(http://i.imgur.com/EvOadsbh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/EvOadsb)
Stick on the acrylic pieces. Angle them outwards to line them up then fold inwards
(http://i.imgur.com/5NTP0nNh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/5NTP0nN)
Voilá
End results
(http://i.imgur.com/J6dF04qh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/J6dF04q)
No inserts
(http://i.imgur.com/8AJXKTCh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/8AJXKTC)
Like an alien spacecraft, all you can see is the two lights
Clear inserts
(http://i.imgur.com/O0Rf9Mgh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/O0Rf9Mg)
Not bad. The edges of the acrylic have a nice glow but except for that they might as well not be here
Frosted inserts
(http://i.imgur.com/lc63T8mh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/lc63T8m)
There we go! As you can see it really helps in the diffusion of light
Other thoughts
A creative person might be able to customize this further by leaving one side clear and etching (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_qc6p879QA) their name or logo on the other side of the inserts. Just sand the top and sides as you would in any other case. This could probably give some pretty cool effects.
(http://i.imgur.com/dwwr9NPh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/dwwr9NP)
Oh, and want to know what kind of complicated setup I used for making these pictures? ;)More(http://i.imgur.com/9ggahyTh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/9ggahyT)
(http://i.imgur.com/zA78MgWh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/zA78MgW)
All you need is some good light, a camera that has the possibility to manually focus and a small table tripod. I am using a Trektech T'Pod (http://www.trek-tech.com/products/tripods.html) because I once bought it for cheap and it is sturdy and stable enough to easily adjust or disassemble for a completely different angle. Some creative angling with a $3 tripod from e-Bay can work as well.
Most of these pictures were taken at exposure times of 1.6 to 5 seconds so a tripod is necessary. Just put it on 2-second self-timer mode and click away.
Show ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow ImageOut of curiosity How are you guys affixing the acrylics to the case?Well, you are in luck since I decided to make a simple guide using my Orion.
I have a couple of pairs so I'm looking for a semi permanent solution. (Going to try sanding a pair to get that diffused look)
Ingredients:
- Chef's hat
- A flat surface
- A thin clear double sided tape (I used Scotch 3M photo & document tape (http://products3.3m.com/catalog/au/en005/office/office/node_GSDST0F6L0gs/root_D58K9TX3VWgv/vroot_G3SJG25V2Hge/bgel_5VDGDXS87Tbl/gvel_WMK00LBHNRgl/theme_au_office_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html))
- 400 Grit sandpaper (I prefer the waterproof version for less dust and a smoother finish)
- Painters tape (to hold everything in place
- Water & paper towel (for cleaning in between sanding and/or to put on the sandpaper)
#1
Attach everything to the surface you will be working on.
(http://i.imgur.com/3mGowjXh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/3mGowjX)
The piece in the middle is the sandpaper.
#2
Prepare your acrylic pieces
(http://i.imgur.com/lGKAwROh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/lGKAwRO)
Clean them first and remove the protective tape on the sides.
#3
Start sanding
(http://i.imgur.com/Xvbanlzh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/Xvbanlz)
Sand using a light pressure and preferably using a circular motion. You will notice that the larger area will take the most time because it takes a while to completely flatten it.
If you are using a lower/rougher grit (let's say all you can get is grit 100) end by making a side by side movement to align the scratches in the material. You won't notice them when they are mounted but we want some quality on these high end keyboards don't we?
(http://i.imgur.com/e4OXn4wh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/e4OXn4w)
Keep going
(http://i.imgur.com/BQ2Uaxch.jpg) (http://imgur.com/BQ2Uaxc)
Sides as well
(http://i.imgur.com/rCZqnkjh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/rCZqnkj)
Things are getting messy with the water but it actually aids in achieving a smooth finish
#4
Clean up.
Just make sure you wash your sanded pieces under some running water to get rid of all the dust you will have created. Maybe use a bit of dish soap to get rid of any grease so it attaches properly
#5
Stick it in
(http://i.imgur.com/NNmdHuPh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/NNmdHuP)
Clean the underside and remove those greasy fingerprints
(http://i.imgur.com/RCkX9Bzh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/RCkX9Bz)
Cut the double sided tape to size and stick it on (This is actually the most annoying part)
(http://i.imgur.com/je4UamIh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/je4UamI)
Remove the protective sheet
(http://i.imgur.com/EvOadsbh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/EvOadsb)
Stick on the acrylic pieces. Angle them outwards to line them up then fold inwards
(http://i.imgur.com/5NTP0nNh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/5NTP0nN)
Voil�
End results
(http://i.imgur.com/J6dF04qh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/J6dF04q)
No inserts
(http://i.imgur.com/8AJXKTCh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/8AJXKTC)
Like an alien spacecraft, all you can see is the two lights
Clear inserts
(http://i.imgur.com/O0Rf9Mgh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/O0Rf9Mg)
Not bad. The edges of the acrylic have a nice glow but except for that they might as well not be here
Frosted inserts
(http://i.imgur.com/lc63T8mh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/lc63T8m)
There we go! As you can see it really helps in the diffusion of light
Other thoughts
A creative person might be able to customize this further by leaving one side clear and etching (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_qc6p879QA) their name or logo on the other side of the inserts. Just sand the top and sides as you would in any other case. This could probably give some pretty cool effects.
(http://i.imgur.com/dwwr9NPh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/dwwr9NP)
Oh, and want to know what kind of complicated setup I used for making these pictures? ;)More(http://i.imgur.com/9ggahyTh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/9ggahyT)
(http://i.imgur.com/zA78MgWh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/zA78MgW)
All you need is some good light, a camera that has the possibility to manually focus and a small table tripod. I am using a Trektech T'Pod (http://www.trek-tech.com/products/tripods.html) because I once bought it for cheap and it is sturdy and stable enough to easily adjust or disassemble for a completely different angle. Some creative angling with a $3 tripod from e-Bay can work as well.
Most of these pictures were taken at exposure times of 1.6 to 5 seconds so a tripod is necessary. Just put it on 2-second self-timer mode and click away.
Does anyone know if there was ever any discussion about moving the numpad area over to the left on these boards, or any other Korean custom? I mean an alternate PCB.
Thanks! Seems that there were a few interested in that idea and asked qtan to get some. Not sure what happened next but the thread fizzled out. Maybe they are enjoying their flipped boards in secret.You could always find a TaoBao agent/forwarding service and order one for yourself =]
Thanks! Seems that there were a few interested in that idea and asked qtan to get some. Not sure what happened next but the thread fizzled out. Maybe they are enjoying their flipped boards in secret.
You need to make a dummy hex file in the o2d folder for it to save, so just do new text file, rename it lightsaver.hex and it will let you save.
Random question, does anyone know if there were any differences between the V1 and V2 cases?
I would be interested in a black one. Post pictures if you can!
You need to make a dummy hex file in the o2d folder for it to save, so just do new text file, rename it lightsaver.hex and it will let you save.
Hi quaxar - Even with the instructions ... I Still cant with it being in a folder and having a dummy hex file.. I don't know why ...
(http://s1.postimg.org/62l8gbocb/Capture.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/62l8gbocb/)
Is there anybody able to help me ?
Random question, does anyone know if there were any differences between the V1 and V2 cases?
I would be interested in a black one. Post pictures if you can!
The V2 case has ledges on the sides while the V1 is flat.
This is the V1 https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7374/12805036093_bcf54ed34b.jpg
and this is the V2 http://cfile21.uf.tistory.com/image/271D2C3A53D8EBB52797FC
I'd love another run of these boardsLook for spring time. We already discussed opening up another interest check. We need 30 people minimum.
i'm not sure if this has been answered yet among the 37 pages of comments but would it be possible to place the numpad on the left?
i'm not sure if this has been answered yet among the 37 pages of comments but would it be possible to place the numpad on the left?
No it is not. The Redscarf3 has solder points to place the numpad on the left.
You can contact ellton. I think he can help you get it from kbd4u shop.
i would totally be in for the lightsaver v2 :DInterest check will be started by taylordcraig after valentine's day.
hoping that the next group buy will happen :)
Awesome, that's great news.
Hey I have a bit of a silly question. Is it possible to arrange the lightsaver in the ISO layout? So far I have only seen it in ANSI. I use ISO and I would be ready to take the plunge for ANSI if ISO is impossible. In fact I might buy one of the ANSI PBT round 4 sets by Ivan that are about to close, in anticipation of using a future lightsaver. If iso is possible though... I would probably stick to it for the sake of the other family members using the keyboard.
Does anybody have some spare Duck Blockers that they're willing to part with? I'm looking for 5 of either the silver or black, or a combination of silver and black. ;D
any chance for the lightsaber plates to have the notches for easier removal of switch tops?
Does anybody have some spare Duck Blockers that they're willing to part with? I'm looking for 5 of either the silver or black, or a combination of silver and black. ;D
Actually I have 4 of each colour that I never used..
any chance for the lightsaber plates to have the notches for easier removal of switch tops?
I'll ask
ALSO I WILL START THE NEXT INTEREST CHECK AFTER VALENTINES DAY.
any chance for the lightsaber plates to have the notches for easier removal of switch tops?
Strange enough, I'm just interested in the case. So is there anyone who's just after the PCB willing to split a kit with me? Or is it possible at all to just buy a case?
By the way, is the Lightsaver for sale somewhere? I kinda want one.Please read a few pages back. We will be starting an interest check for another round soon.
Please read a few pages back. We will be starting an interest check for another round soon.
Forgive my ignorance. What would i need to assemble one of these, tools and processes involved.you'd need a soldering iron.
I am totally new for this forum. What should i do if i want do but the lightsaver v2?
I'm trying my hand at programming my Orion at the moment... but I am failing hard. And since the Lightsaver uses the same software I thought I'd ask here.
Using the O2D keymapper (http://duck0113.tistory.com/category/%E2%98%85Firmware%20Program) I figured out where the flip key is but I have been unable to do any programming. Seriously no idea how.
I believe TrueCustom was working on a proper translation?
basic steps when i did it on my eagle / viper:
1. make your layout in 02D and save a hex file (windows region needs to be set to Korean to program arrows and some led functions)
2. hold down the flip or bootloader key while you plug in your keyboard (keys will not function if correctly in bootloader mode)
3. go into device manager and find your keyboard (will have an exclamation mark) and update the driver. (the driver should be in your one of your flip or other avr folders. if there's no devices that need drivers you might already have it installed but make sure you look around)
4. open flip, File - Load HEX File (load the one you created)
5. Select Target Device (ATmega32u4), Select a Communication Medium (usb) *if it can't find the kb, you didn't do step 3 correctly*
6. make sure everything is checked in the Operations Flow and click Run (if flip gets stuck after Blank Check and doesn't program, you might need to reload the hex file, this part is clumsy. play order until it works)
7. after programming is successful, make sure the Reset box in the bottom right is checked and hit Start Application to reboot your kb
everything should be good to go after that.
good luck!
I'm trying my hand at programming my Orion at the moment... but I am failing hard. And since the Lightsaver uses the same software I thought I'd ask here.
Using the O2D keymapper (http://duck0113.tistory.com/category/%E2%98%85Firmware%20Program) I figured out where the flip key is but I have been unable to do any programming. Seriously no idea how.
I believe TrueCustom was working on a proper translation?
basic steps when i did it on my eagle / viper:
1. make your layout in 02D and save a hex file (windows region needs to be set to Korean to program arrows and some led functions)
2. hold down the flip or bootloader key while you plug in your keyboard (keys will not function if correctly in bootloader mode)
3. go into device manager and find your keyboard (will have an exclamation mark) and update the driver. (the driver should be in your one of your flip or other avr folders. if there's no devices that need drivers you might already have it installed but make sure you look around)
4. open flip, File - Load HEX File (load the one you created)
5. Select Target Device (ATmega32u4), Select a Communication Medium (usb) *if it can't find the kb, you didn't do step 3 correctly*
6. make sure everything is checked in the Operations Flow and click Run (if flip gets stuck after Blank Check and doesn't program, you might need to reload the hex file, this part is clumsy. play order until it works)
7. after programming is successful, make sure the Reset box in the bottom right is checked and hit Start Application to reboot your kb
everything should be good to go after that.
good luck!
This is great advice, I have all this working now on my Lightsaver. I am having problems with the arrow keys though. The 02D software shows the arrow cluster as "?", and I don't think it's mapping the right codes to the keys. Not sure what I am doing :(
I'm trying my hand at programming my Orion at the moment... but I am failing hard. And since the Lightsaver uses the same software I thought I'd ask here.
Using the O2D keymapper (http://duck0113.tistory.com/category/%E2%98%85Firmware%20Program) I figured out where the flip key is but I have been unable to do any programming. Seriously no idea how.
I believe TrueCustom was working on a proper translation?
basic steps when i did it on my eagle / viper:
1. make your layout in 02D and save a hex file (windows region needs to be set to Korean to program arrows and some led functions)
2. hold down the flip or bootloader key while you plug in your keyboard (keys will not function if correctly in bootloader mode)
3. go into device manager and find your keyboard (will have an exclamation mark) and update the driver. (the driver should be in your one of your flip or other avr folders. if there's no devices that need drivers you might already have it installed but make sure you look around)
4. open flip, File - Load HEX File (load the one you created)
5. Select Target Device (ATmega32u4), Select a Communication Medium (usb) *if it can't find the kb, you didn't do step 3 correctly*
6. make sure everything is checked in the Operations Flow and click Run (if flip gets stuck after Blank Check and doesn't program, you might need to reload the hex file, this part is clumsy. play order until it works)
7. after programming is successful, make sure the Reset box in the bottom right is checked and hit Start Application to reboot your kb
everything should be good to go after that.
good luck!
This is great advice, I have all this working now on my Lightsaver. I am having problems with the arrow keys though. The 02D software shows the arrow cluster as "?", and I don't think it's mapping the right codes to the keys. Not sure what I am doing :(
Change your region on the pc to korea then restart and it should fix that.
I've had three lightsavers go through me and each time I've had to do that to reprogram the arrow keys.
Edit:
For clarificationShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZN1QdAL.png)
MoreI'm trying my hand at programming my Orion at the moment... but I am failing hard. And since the Lightsaver uses the same software I thought I'd ask here.
Using the O2D keymapper (http://duck0113.tistory.com/category/%E2%98%85Firmware%20Program) I figured out where the flip key is but I have been unable to do any programming. Seriously no idea how.
I believe TrueCustom was working on a proper translation?
basic steps when i did it on my eagle / viper:
1. make your layout in 02D and save a hex file (windows region needs to be set to Korean to program arrows and some led functions)
2. hold down the flip or bootloader key while you plug in your keyboard (keys will not function if correctly in bootloader mode)
3. go into device manager and find your keyboard (will have an exclamation mark) and update the driver. (the driver should be in your one of your flip or other avr folders. if there's no devices that need drivers you might already have it installed but make sure you look around)
4. open flip, File - Load HEX File (load the one you created)
5. Select Target Device (ATmega32u4), Select a Communication Medium (usb) *if it can't find the kb, you didn't do step 3 correctly*
6. make sure everything is checked in the Operations Flow and click Run (if flip gets stuck after Blank Check and doesn't program, you might need to reload the hex file, this part is clumsy. play order until it works)
7. after programming is successful, make sure the Reset box in the bottom right is checked and hit Start Application to reboot your kb
everything should be good to go after that.
good luck!
This is great advice, I have all this working now on my Lightsaver. I am having problems with the arrow keys though. The 02D software shows the arrow cluster as "?", and I don't think it's mapping the right codes to the keys. Not sure what I am doing :(
Change your region on the pc to korea then restart and it should fix that.
I've had three lightsavers go through me and each time I've had to do that to reprogram the arrow keys.
Edit:
For clarificationShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZN1QdAL.png)
Thank you...
the place I eventually needed to set this was in the System Locale (Control Panel -> Region and Language -> Administrative tab -> Language for non-Unicode Programs -> Change system locale). It all works now...
Here's some pictures of my board so I can stay on topic:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vNtGj3P.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vxbdtmc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yipecSS.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CDqZQAa.jpg)
I'm trying my hand at programming my Orion at the moment... but I am failing hard. And since the Lightsaver uses the same software I thought I'd ask here.
Using the O2D keymapper (http://duck0113.tistory.com/category/%E2%98%85Firmware%20Program) I figured out where the flip key is but I have been unable to do any programming. Seriously no idea how.
I believe TrueCustom was working on a proper translation?
basic steps when i did it on my eagle / viper:
1. make your layout in 02D and save a hex file (windows region needs to be set to Korean to program arrows and some led functions)
2. hold down the flip or bootloader key while you plug in your keyboard (keys will not function if correctly in bootloader mode)
3. go into device manager and find your keyboard (will have an exclamation mark) and update the driver. (the driver should be in your one of your flip or other avr folders. if there's no devices that need drivers you might already have it installed but make sure you look around)
4. open flip, File - Load HEX File (load the one you created)
5. Select Target Device (ATmega32u4), Select a Communication Medium (usb) *if it can't find the kb, you didn't do step 3 correctly*
6. make sure everything is checked in the Operations Flow and click Run (if flip gets stuck after Blank Check and doesn't program, you might need to reload the hex file, this part is clumsy. play order until it works)
7. after programming is successful, make sure the Reset box in the bottom right is checked and hit Start Application to reboot your kb
everything should be good to go after that.
good luck!
This is great advice, I have all this working now on my Lightsaver. I am having problems with the arrow keys though. The 02D software shows the arrow cluster as "?", and I don't think it's mapping the right codes to the keys. Not sure what I am doing :(
Change your region on the pc to korea then restart and it should fix that.
I've had three lightsavers go through me and each time I've had to do that to reprogram the arrow keys.
Edit:
For clarificationShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZN1QdAL.png)
Thank you...
the place I eventually needed to set this was in the System Locale (Control Panel -> Region and Language -> Administrative tab -> Language for non-Unicode Programs -> Change system locale). It all works now...
Here's some pictures of my board so I can stay on topic:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vNtGj3P.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vxbdtmc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yipecSS.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CDqZQAa.jpg)
...
gross layout but grats
...
gross layout but grats
Huh? you don't like the layout? OMG, I love it, it will look like this when I am finished with it: https://www.flickr.com/photos/jokrik/14952230998/
Except I will have the Miami Nights GMK set on it, and then eventually SKIDATA!!!
Edit: Thank you to both Sifo and Steezus. Also, thanks to sethk for the soldering.
sethk delivered??? grats...
Is there anyone in the Atlanta area that has a LSV2 with it working?
For the life of me, I cannot get FLIP to work and get the mapping onto my keyboard. If we could meet somewhere in ATL, and you flash my keyboard, I will owe you a meal and sincere gratitude.
Is there anyone in the Atlanta area that has a LSV2 with it working?
For the life of me, I cannot get FLIP to work and get the mapping onto my keyboard. If we could meet somewhere in ATL, and you flash my keyboard, I will owe you a meal and sincere gratitude.
Well one issue I have, is the arrow keys when using the mapping program:
http://duck0113.tistory.com/84
All show up as "?" Instead of "Up", "Left", etc.
http://i.imgur.com/UXfX8T1.png
Well one issue I have, is the arrow keys when using the mapping program:
http://duck0113.tistory.com/84
All show up as "?" Instead of "Up", "Left", etc.
http://i.imgur.com/UXfX8T1.png
Well one issue I have, is the arrow keys when using the mapping program:
http://duck0113.tistory.com/84
All show up as "?" Instead of "Up", "Left", etc.
http://i.imgur.com/8GuNqDa.png
Great, that question is resolved. Another question on the keymapper:
What do "T/L", "C/M", "MFN", Ly CH, Hot Key, and Key Lock mean?
Is there documentation on this anywhere? I searched and did not find it.
I remember that I have to hold down a key on the keyboard while plugging it in, but I can't find anymore what specific key. Which one is it?
I remember that I have to hold down a key on the keyboard while plugging it in, but I can't find anymore what specific key. Which one is it?
It looks like I may be getting my hands on a LSv2 kit. :D
What is the difference between the old and new plates?
old one is more universal standard layout
new plate is 1800 layout
It looks like I may be getting my hands on a LSv2 kit. :D
What is the difference between the old and new plates?
Dude, I love mine!!! :)
old one is more universal standard layout
new plate is 1800 layout
Thank you very much, I would be getting both plates but I think I'll opt for the 1800 layout since that is what I had on my RS96.It looks like I may be getting my hands on a LSv2 kit. :D
What is the difference between the old and new plates?
Dude, I love mine!!! :)
That's very good to hear. :D
This was my first dream board but I gave up hope on finding one but it now seems I finally get to own one. ;)
Be prepared, if you have the alu bottom, the whole thing is heavy as he'll, which I love. Solid!!
Be prepared, if you have the alu bottom, the whole thing is heavy as he'll, which I love. Solid!!
My body is ready.
I have both the Orion v2 and TGR-Jane which both way a **** ton, I assumed this would be the same. :p
The shop that Duck uses definitely has amazing quality, I'm not sure if he changed since the LSv2 but the anodizing on my Orion is superb. I expect nothing else for the LSv2.
Be prepared, if you have the alu bottom, the whole thing is heavy as he'll, which I love. Solid!!
My body is ready.
I have both the Orion v2 and TGR-Jane which both way a **** ton, I assumed this would be the same. :p
The shop that Duck uses definitely has amazing quality, I'm not sure if he changed since the LSv2 but the anodizing on my Orion is superb. I expect nothing else for the LSv2.
I get my Orion tonight :)
Be prepared, if you have the alu bottom, the whole thing is heavy as he'll, which I love. Solid!!
My body is ready.
I have both the Orion v2 and TGR-Jane which both way a **** ton, I assumed this would be the same. :p
The shop that Duck uses definitely has amazing quality, I'm not sure if he changed since the LSv2 but the anodizing on my Orion is superb. I expect nothing else for the LSv2.
I get my Orion tonight :)
Very nice, that's rather fast!
I'm debating on what switches shall go into my LSv2, I currently have a board with Vintage/Old Browns and another with 65g Zealios. The choices are unbearable. :))
Is there any news on when v3 will arrive? Realised I´m gonna need like three so need to save some dough.
Thanks for information.Hopefully it will start in summer.It's hard to find someone sell their lightsaver :(Is there any news on when v3 will arrive? Realised I´m gonna need like three so need to save some dough.
LSv3 will be the next GB after the Octagon v2 is finished. However that is most likely near the end of the year the the LSv3 GB will start and won't arrive at your doorsteps until 2017.
Thanks for information.Hopefully it will start in summer.It's hard to find someone sell their lightsaver :(Is there any news on when v3 will arrive? Realised I´m gonna need like three so need to save some dough.
LSv3 will be the next GB after the Octagon v2 is finished. However that is most likely near the end of the year the the LSv3 GB will start and won't arrive at your doorsteps until 2017.
Is there any news on when v3 will arrive? Realised I´m gonna need like three so need to save some dough.
LSv3 will be the next GB after the Octagon v2 is finished. However that is most likely near the end of the year the the LSv3 GB will start and won't arrive at your doorsteps until 2017.
Thanks for information.Hopefully it will start in summer.It's hard to find someone sell their lightsaver :(
Sorry to be keeping this thread alive but are all the plates for the LSv2 steel?
Both plate options for me came in steel and now I can't decide as to whether I should use Vintage Blacks for this board or put 62g Vintage Blues like I had originally planned. I hate seeing the kit just sitting there asking to be built.
Sorry to be keeping this thread alive but are all the plates for the LSv2 steel?
Both plate options for me came in steel and now I can't decide as to whether I should use Vintage Blacks for this board or put 62g Vintage Blues like I had originally planned. I hate seeing the kit just sitting there asking to be built.
Both of mine are steel as well so I assume so... I don't think I've seen an alu plated lightsaver 2
Sorry to be keeping this thread alive but are all the plates for the LSv2 steel?
Both plate options for me came in steel and now I can't decide as to whether I should use Vintage Blacks for this board or put 62g Vintage Blues like I had originally planned. I hate seeing the kit just sitting there asking to be built.
Both of mine are steel as well so I assume so... I don't think I've seen an alu plated lightsaver 2
Thanks for the info, may I ask what switches you ended up putting in your LSv2? :thumb:
Sorry to be keeping this thread alive but are all the plates for the LSv2 steel?
Both plate options for me came in steel and now I can't decide as to whether I should use Vintage Blacks for this board or put 62g Vintage Blues like I had originally planned. I hate seeing the kit just sitting there asking to be built.
Both of mine are steel as well so I assume so... I don't think I've seen an alu plated lightsaver 2
Thanks for the info, may I ask what switches you ended up putting in your LSv2? :thumb:
regular blues :) feels great. not very loud with thick pbt as well but really sparked me love for blues again
Sorry to be keeping this thread alive but are all the plates for the LSv2 steel?
Both plate options for me came in steel and now I can't decide as to whether I should use Vintage Blacks for this board or put 62g Vintage Blues like I had originally planned. I hate seeing the kit just sitting there asking to be built.
Sorry to be keeping this thread alive but are all the plates for the LSv2 steel?
Both plate options for me came in steel and now I can't decide as to whether I should use Vintage Blacks for this board or put 62g Vintage Blues like I had originally planned. I hate seeing the kit just sitting there asking to be built.
I used lubed and stickered vintage Blacks, and it works excellently in the keyboard. I presorted my Blacks for "Big Logo" only switches as well for a more uniform look.
"settling"Sorry to be keeping this thread alive but are all the plates for the LSv2 steel?
Both plate options for me came in steel and now I can't decide as to whether I should use Vintage Blacks for this board or put 62g Vintage Blues like I had originally planned. I hate seeing the kit just sitting there asking to be built.
I used lubed and stickered vintage Blacks, and it works excellently in the keyboard. I presorted my Blacks for "Big Logo" only switches as well for a more uniform look.
I was thinking of going with some vintage blacks but I'll have two boards already with blacks after I build my latest addition. Still haven't found any good switches for the board yet, I'm still thinking some decent vintage blues would be nice or just settling for the Gateron ones.
Sorry to be keeping this thread alive but are all the plates for the LSv2 steel?
Both plate options for me came in steel and now I can't decide as to whether I should use Vintage Blacks for this board or put 62g Vintage Blues like I had originally planned. I hate seeing the kit just sitting there asking to be built.
I used lubed and stickered vintage Blacks, and it works excellently in the keyboard. I presorted my Blacks for "Big Logo" only switches as well for a more uniform look.
I was thinking of going with some vintage blacks but I'll have two boards already with blacks after I build my latest addition. Still haven't found any good switches for the board yet, I'm still thinking some decent vintage blues would be nice or just settling for the Gateron ones.
"settling"Sorry to be keeping this thread alive but are all the plates for the LSv2 steel?
Both plate options for me came in steel and now I can't decide as to whether I should use Vintage Blacks for this board or put 62g Vintage Blues like I had originally planned. I hate seeing the kit just sitting there asking to be built.
I used lubed and stickered vintage Blacks, and it works excellently in the keyboard. I presorted my Blacks for "Big Logo" only switches as well for a more uniform look.
I was thinking of going with some vintage blacks but I'll have two boards already with blacks after I build my latest addition. Still haven't found any good switches for the board yet, I'm still thinking some decent vintage blues would be nice or just settling for the Gateron ones.
MoreSorry to be keeping this thread alive but are all the plates for the LSv2 steel?
Both plate options for me came in steel and now I can't decide as to whether I should use Vintage Blacks for this board or put 62g Vintage Blues like I had originally planned. I hate seeing the kit just sitting there asking to be built.
I used lubed and stickered vintage Blacks, and it works excellently in the keyboard. I presorted my Blacks for "Big Logo" only switches as well for a more uniform look.
I was thinking of going with some vintage blacks but I'll have two boards already with blacks after I build my latest addition. Still haven't found any good switches for the board yet, I'm still thinking some decent vintage blues would be nice or just settling for the Gateron ones.
I wouldn't settle, gl yo
Hi all, recently got my hands on a LSv2. Would anyone mind helping me with the size of the fixing bolts? Want to build this relatively soon! ;D
Hi all, recently got my hands on a LSv2. Would anyone mind helping me with the size of the fixing bolts? Want to build this relatively soon! ;D
m2 iirc. I think on the info page m3 but i think its wrong.
edit nvm.
"Screws: the 10 little screws you need to attach the plate to the case are size M2 in Torx T6 with a 0.4mm pitch (called "coarse" or "normal") and 5mm length."
Is there any news on when v3 will arrive? Realised I´m gonna need like three so need to save some dough.
LSv3 will be the next GB after the Octagon v2 is finished. However that is most likely near the end of the year the the LSv3 GB will start and won't arrive at your doorsteps until 2017.Show Image(https://i.imgflip.com/xe8ae.jpg)
Guys,first renders of LSV 3 on Duck's blog.Cheer :thumb: :thumb:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/r0rT6RH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/S0nx55z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7X4eCtk.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ivl5yvv.jpg)
Any estimation on MSRP for the LSV3?
Guys,first renders of LSV 3 on Duck's blog.Cheer :thumb: :thumb:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/r0rT6RH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/S0nx55z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7X4eCtk.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ivl5yvv.jpg)
And ... I guess the day will be for Korean GB.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WkfizH0.jpg)
Lol thanks ,saw it on Korean forum and GG translate sucks :p :p :pAnd ... I guess the day will be for Korean GB.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WkfizH0.jpg)
Lol that's the GMK Terminal start date with a Kira96 render.
Guys,first renders of LSV 3 on Duck's blog.Cheer :thumb: :thumb:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/r0rT6RH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/S0nx55z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7X4eCtk.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ivl5yvv.jpg)
Proto received by duck, get hype
http://duck0113.tistory.com/149
:eek: :eek:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/bsniCRi.jpg)
Proto received by duck, get hype
http://duck0113.tistory.com/149
:eek: :eek:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/bsniCRi.jpg)
Proto received by duck, get hype
http://duck0113.tistory.com/149
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Yup, definitely going to try my best to get into this. Do we know the date of the Korean GB, and usually when that translates to when everyone else can jump in?
I'd think he means LightSaver, not keyboards in general. 3 revisions is plenty (Perhaps) for him to finally find the design.
2017 First G.B
soon
Geekhack
This is last design.
Hope that doesn't mean LSV3 is the last board he will be making?!
it probably means this is the finalized design
first build... and going with a Duck Kustom? Ballsy.
first build... and going with a Duck Kustom? Ballsy.
Go big or go home!
Are Duck's group buys usually raffles? Sounds like the viper/eagle was only open for a short window, and I'm wondering what to expect for the LSv3 gb.
This is a board I've been eyeing for awhile, and I'm wondering if I should hold out on getting The Exent and pick this up instead.... :-X
first build... and going with a Duck Kustom? Ballsy.
Are Duck's group buys usually raffles? Sounds like the viper/eagle was only open for a short window, and I'm wondering what to expect for the LSv3 gb.
This is a board I've been eyeing for awhile, and I'm wondering if I should hold out on getting The Exent and pick this up instead.... :-X
Are Duck's group buys usually raffles? Sounds like the viper/eagle was only open for a short window, and I'm wondering what to expect for the LSv3 gb.
This is a board I've been eyeing for awhile, and I'm wondering if I should hold out on getting The Exent and pick this up instead.... :-X
first build... and going with a Duck Kustom? Ballsy.
Curious why you would say that? From what i understand the kit has everything I need except switches and caps. Other than practicing my soldering what would make this more difficult than anything else?
The only riski see is that the investment is rather high if I screw up thepcb, but I have soldered before and have a few switch testers I can practice on.
Thanks -musubi, hkf, and OfTheWild for the info. So based on past groupbuys, it sounds like "soon" could be anywhere from 2 days to 2 weeks!
Are they always run from a GH GB page, or is there anywhere else this gets posted?
Thanks -musubi, hkf, and OfTheWild for the info. So based on past groupbuys, it sounds like "soon" could be anywhere from 2 days to 2 weeks!
Are they always run from a GH GB page, or is there anywhere else this gets posted?
If this is asking when the GB will start, Viper stuff hasn't even shipped yet and it would be un-Duck-like to start a new GB with the previous not at least being partially complete. So, 2 days to 2 weeks is an optimistic time frame for when the V3 group buy could start. At least, in my opinion.
I would be surprised if v3 gets posted before June to be honest. Doesn't mean you shouldn't keep an eye out.Apparently the Korean GB starts on the 20th.
Does anybody have a rough estimation of what the price will be? Thanks in advance! :p
I did see the OP but that GB was in August of 2014...Does anybody have a rough estimation of what the price will be? Thanks in advance!
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1sEiaiSNtVqJDiLe3ftPfPQ57qSWQvdj0HnzWTwoF1k8/pub?single=true&gid=2&output=html (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1sEiaiSNtVqJDiLe3ftPfPQ57qSWQvdj0HnzWTwoF1k8/pub?single=true&gid=2&output=html)
Order status link from OP will show you what people paid last round.
I would be surprised if v3 gets posted before June to be honest. Doesn't mean you shouldn't keep an eye out.Apparently the Korean GB starts on the 20th.
I would be surprised if v3 gets posted before June to be honest. Doesn't mean you shouldn't keep an eye out.
Update on Korean GB.
New post today 2-20-17. Cost is 389,400 Won which is ~340 USD. Deposits required by 2-27. Due to the withdraw limit of 5000000 WON on cards for him (max ~4364 USD), he will only be taking 10-15 orders for cards.
Due to the withdraw limit of 5000000 WON on cards for him (max ~4364 USD), he will only be taking 10-15 orders for cards.
Does anybody know if the LS3 will be Alps compatible?
Gesendet von meinem SM-G920F mit Tapatalk
Is it finally here? Is there a limited amount of units available? I've been checking everyday. Please don't sell out while I'm sleeping.
Is there some place I should be looking for news on this group buy? I saw his blog but it has no mention of the Korean group buy starting. Seems like there is going to be limited quantities for this buy and I'm afraid I'm going to miss it.
Is there some place I should be looking for news on this group buy? I saw his blog but it has no mention of the Korean group buy starting. Seems like there is going to be limited quantities for this buy and I'm afraid I'm going to miss it.
Patience. Just keep checking this post, the viper/Eagle post, and the GB area in general. I really don't think we are that close to it starting. The first round of Vipers and eagles haven't even shipped yet.
Is there some place I should be looking for news on this group buy? I saw his blog but it has no mention of the Korean group buy starting. Seems like there is going to be limited quantities for this buy and I'm afraid I'm going to miss it.
Patience. Just keep checking this post, the viper/Eagle post, and the GB area in general. I really don't think we are that close to it starting. The first round of Vipers and eagles haven't even shipped yet.
That's what I was expecting to hear, but exactly what I didn't want to hear. Check back here, viper post, his blog, and general GB area is 4 places to check every day (maybe twice a day) for something that may not even go live for a month or two. It is what it is though so I guess I just need to stay on top of it ;D