Building Phantom Hardware and Firmware Mods

[Melvang]

could someone post a quick diagram on how to hard wire a phantom board to a teensy without the standard pcb so that the columns and rows line up with their respective pins on the teensy?  I have an idea for mine that won't allow the use of the pcb.  Also any suggestions where i could get a new teensy controller? 

[jdcarpe]

could someone post a quick diagram on how to hard wire a phantom board to a teensy without the standard pcb so that the columns and rows line up with their respective pins on the teensy?  I have an idea for mine that won't allow the use of the pcb.  Also any suggestions where i could get a new teensy controller? 

You can buy a Teensy direct from PJRC at http://www.pjrc.com/teensy

I don't think it will work just wiring the matrix direct to the pins on the ATmega32U4, however. There are some other electrical components that would be missing.

[Melvang]

I know i would need diodes just not sure which columns and rows line up with with pins on the teensy and that is a lot of lines to follow on the pcb without much room for error.

[WhiteFireDragon]

First one I built from this round 2 batch. It's pretty long, but there is a detailed index in the video description to jump around:

There are instructions on DT, but these are the key differences that I do:

• solder diodes on the opposite side of the switches, so they're facing down. This is so you can easily replace them if any happens rather than desoldering the whole board
• solder the top side of one of the two legs so it holds diode in place, clip excess leads, then solder the bottom two legs. This holds them in place, so you don't have bent leads when soldering
• make the teensy as flush as possible, as described here, so it can be compatible with current and future cases.

[SpAmRaY]

First one I built from this round 2 batch. It's pretty long, but there is a detailed index in the video description to jump around:

There are instructions on DT, but these are the key differences that I do:

• solder diodes on the opposite side of the switches, so they're facing down. This is so you can easily replace them if any happens rather than desoldering the whole board
• solder the top side of one of the two legs so it holds diode in place, clip excess leads, then solder the bottom two legs. This holds them in place, so you don't have bent leads when soldering
• make the teensy as flush as possible, as described here, so it can be compatible with current and future cases.

I'm going to watch this tomorrow but just seeing all those different switches  !!

[Denonic]

I'm going to watch this tomorrow but just seeing all those different switches  !!

Haha awesome job WFD.  That's my switch selection and the reasons behind each are on my blog here if interested: link

I wouldn't dare to do this with a non switchable plate top though.

Cheers again WFD!

[remmeh]

Anyone happen to be using a USB KVM with a Phantom? I'm using an iogear one and it refuses to work through the KVM.

Think this is fixable through firmware somehow?

[kaiserreich]

Do I need to use linux to compile a custom layout firmware or is there an easier way under Windows?

[bpiphany]

Do I need to use linux to compile a custom layout firmware or is there an easier way under Windows?

There surely is a way. It ain't gonna be easier though...

Edit: You were perhaps looking for a GUI or something. I'm not sure if someone built something like that. Compiling on the other hand is going to be easier on Linux any day.

[bpiphany]

could someone post a quick diagram on how to hard wire a phantom board to a teensy without the standard pcb so that the columns and rows line up with their respective pins on the teensy?  I have an idea for mine that won't allow the use of the pcb.  Also any suggestions where i could get a new teensy controller? 

Schematics!

 phantom_schematic.pdf (123.55 kB - downloaded 205 times.)

[remmeh]

Do I need to use linux to compile a custom layout firmware or is there an easier way under Windows?

There surely is a way. It ain't gonna be easier though...

Edit: You were perhaps looking for a GUI or something. I'm not sure if someone built something like that. Compiling on the other hand is going to be easier on Linux any day.

I installed cygwin + WinAVR and this allowed me to compile from the commandline.

[Tranquilite]

I'm able to compile Hasu's code in windows from commandline with just WinAVR.

[Melvang]

could someone post a quick diagram on how to hard wire a phantom board to a teensy without the standard pcb so that the columns and rows line up with their respective pins on the teensy?  I have an idea for mine that won't allow the use of the pcb.  Also any suggestions where i could get a new teensy controller? 

Schematics!

(Attachment Link)

Thanks a lot for this good sir.  Now to see if I can make heads and or tails out of it when i get my really custom plate made for mine.

[danielucf]

So I put everything together and not all my keys are working. I tried a couple different hex files but have not tried to compile my own yet. Does anyone have a link to a nice Ansi150 layout hex I can try just to be sure?


This shows the keys that work. I had my ErgoDox work flawlessly the first time I plugged it in and flashed a firmware, and I just built a 38GT last night with zero issues with my diodes. Any ideas?

[The_Beast]

So I put everything together and not all my keys are working. I tried a couple different hex files but have not tried to compile my own yet. Does anyone have a link to a nice Ansi150 layout hex I can try just to be sure?

Show Image

This shows the keys that work. I had my ErgoDox work flawlessly the first time I plugged it in and flashed a firmware, and I just built a 38GT last night with zero issues with my diodes. Any ideas?

Looks like a problem with some of the rows


Did you solder those 3 extra pins on the teensy?

[danielucf]

Did you solder those 3 extra pins on the teensy?

Nope.... 

Back to the drawing board, I might have a lot of desoldering to do unless there is a way to get these in with the plate/keys attached. Completely my fault being a newb and skipping directions.

[The_Beast]

Did you solder those 3 extra pins on the teensy?

Nope.... 

Back to the drawing board, I might have a lot of desoldering to do unless there is a way to get these in with the plate/keys attached. Completely my fault being a newb and skipping directions.

You might be able to insert the pins in through the


your plates already on .

[danielucf]

Looking at WhiteFireDragon's teensy picture it looks like I should have pins through D4, D5, and E6 (As labeled on the teensy PCB). It looks like it'll be less work to desolder the small Teensy PCB.

This line right here "Make sure you also install legs to pin 13, 17, and 30." Arg 

Still need a Ansi150 hex file from somewhere. Not worried about function layers until I have more time to learn how to compile my own .hex files.

[The_Beast]

Looking at WhiteFireDragon's teensy picture it looks like I should have pins through D4, D5, and E6 (As labeled on the teensy PCB). It looks like it'll be less work to desolder the small Teensy PCB.

This line right here "Make sure you also install legs to pin 13, 17, and 30." Arg 

How are you going to desolder the teensy with the plate on? Unless you do all the pins on the teensy

[danielucf]

I was going to desolder all the pins on the teensy (Only 24 instead of 172+ from switches and LEDs), but looking at the unused teensy for my second Phantom I think the solder is on both sides of the small PCB so I'm probably SOL.

[The_Beast]

I was going to desolder all the pins on the teensy (Only 24 instead of 172+ from switches and LEDs), but looking at the unused teensy for my second Phantom I think the solder is on both sides of the small PCB so I'm probably SOL.

Sucker or wick?


Also, I loaded hasu firmware for ansi150 and was freaking out since the caps lock didn't work so I desoldered/resoldered on a new diode and it still didn't work. I loaded in the other default phantom firmware and it work. Just an FYI encase you didn't know

[Rendom]

I need some help for the WFD125 layout plate. Has anyone who has the same plate compiled a layout for the firmware? And willing to share? Please PM me! My Phantom isn't working now. : (

[WhiteFireDragon]

Did you solder those 3 extra pins on the teensy?

Nope.... 

Back to the drawing board, I might have a lot of desoldering to do unless there is a way to get these in with the plate/keys attached. Completely my fault being a newb and skipping directions.

Looking at WhiteFireDragon's teensy picture it looks like I should have pins through D4, D5, and E6 (As labeled on the teensy PCB). It looks like it'll be less work to desolder the small Teensy PCB.

Yeah looks like you skipped this step at 22m 53sec. You need to access both sides of the PCB to add in those 3 extra pins. Since you already have the plate installed and soldered the switches, you need to desolder all switches to take the everything off before you can access both sides of teensy.

To anyone building for the first time, test all connectivity between diodes, traces, and controller before the switches goes on. It saves the hassle that danielucf had to go through. That's at 34m 48s, and 36m 00s.

[bpiphany]

Is it  completely impossible the solder would jump the gap down onto the Phantom board through the Teensy if you add enough? Maybe it is possible to first add solder to the pads on the main board. There should be some room without a pin in there. Then heat some pin up pushing it through both holes, re-flowing the solder?

[WhiteFireDragon]

I was thinking something like that too since it's only 3 pins, but didn't recommend it because if he messes up, it might make the problem worst.

Do what bpiphany said if you're using solder wire. Add a lot of flux, melt a little bit of solder wire at a time and let it flow down the teensy hole into the keyboard PCB. Add the pin, reflow, and add more solder to the top. Alternatively, it might be easier to use solder paste and push it down all the way, add the pin, then heat it until it melts. The risk of doing this is that heating solder that's all the way down the hole might damage the top traces first before the solder on the bottom remelts.

[bpiphany]

Solder paste of course.. That way you'll be able to get it all the way down where it is supposed to be before it solidifies =) Then just add the pin and heat it up.

[The_Beast]

Did you solder those 3 extra pins on the teensy?

Nope.... 

Back to the drawing board, I might have a lot of desoldering to do unless there is a way to get these in with the plate/keys attached. Completely my fault being a newb and skipping directions.

Looking at WhiteFireDragon's teensy picture it looks like I should have pins through D4, D5, and E6 (As labeled on the teensy PCB). It looks like it'll be less work to desolder the small Teensy PCB.

Yeah looks like you skipped this step at 22m 53sec. You need to access both sides of the PCB to add in those 3 extra pins. Since you already have the plate installed and soldered the switches, you need to desolder all switches to take the everything off before you can access both sides of teensy.

To anyone building for the first time, test all connectivity between diodes, traces, and controller before the switches goes on. It saves the hassle that danielucf had to go through. That's at 34m 48s, and 36m 00s.

Yup, I used my cheap $10 multimeter to test the columns and rows. I also did a aquatest with a bent wire just to double check.

[Wraul]

Still need a Ansi150 hex file from somewhere. Not worried about function layers until I have more time to learn how to compile my own .hex files.

I built you a default ansi 150 firmware.
It uses this layout https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/phantom#2-ansi-150
You can download it here https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1357824/tmk_phantom_ansi_150.hex

[megaforce]

Need a bit of help with my programming my Phantom (using hasu's firmware) . I've modified phantom_ansi_150.h as shown below, and kept the rest of the headers and sources untouched.

Not sure what do to from here on out:

Code: [Select]

// Phantom ANSI 150
static const uint8_t PROGMEM keymaps[][MATRIX_ROWS][MATRIX_COLS] = {
    /* 0: qwerty */
    KEYMAP_ANSI_150(\
        ESC,      F1,  F2,  F3,  F4,  F5,  F6,  F7,  F8,  F9,  F10, F11, F12,       PSCR,SLCK,BRK,  \
        GRV, 1,   2,   3,   4,   5,   6,   7,   8,   9,   0,   MINS,EQL, BSPC,      INS, HOME,PGUP, \
        TAB, Q,   W,   E,   R,   T,   Y,   U,   I,   O,   P,   LBRC,RBRC,BSLS,      DEL, END, PGDN, \
        CAPS, A,   S,   D,   F,   G,   H,   J,   K,   L,   SCLN,QUOT,     ENT,                       \
        LSFT,     Z,   X,   C,   V,   B,   N,   M,   COMM,DOT, SLSH,     RSFT,           UP,        \
        LCTL,LGUI,LALT,               SPC,                     RALT,FN0,RCTL,      LEFT,DOWN,RGHT),
    /* 1: media keys */
    KEYMAP_ANSI_150(\
        TRNS,     TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,      TRNS,TRNS,SLEP, \
        TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,      TRNS,TRNS,VOLU, \
        TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,      MSEL,MUTE,VOLD, \
        TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,     TRNS,                      \
        TRNS,     TRNS,TRNS,CALC,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,     TRNS,           MPLY,      \
        TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,               TRNS,                    TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,      MPRV,MSTP,MNXT)
};
static const uint16_t PROGMEM fn_actions[] = {
    [0] = ACTION_LAYER_MOMENTARY(1)
};
[code]

[Findecanor]

I use bpiphany's firmware and the keyboard sometimes stops working. If I power-cycle (remove and reinsert the cable), it works OK again. Has this happened to anyone else?

[Wraul]

Need a bit of help with my programming my Phantom (using hasu's firmware) . I've modified phantom_ansi_150.h as shown below, and kept the rest of the headers and sources untouched.

Not sure what do to from here on out:

Code: [Select]

// Phantom ANSI 150
static const uint8_t PROGMEM keymaps[][MATRIX_ROWS][MATRIX_COLS] = {
    /* 0: qwerty */
    KEYMAP_ANSI_150(\
        ESC,      F1,  F2,  F3,  F4,  F5,  F6,  F7,  F8,  F9,  F10, F11, F12,       PSCR,SLCK,BRK,  \
        GRV, 1,   2,   3,   4,   5,   6,   7,   8,   9,   0,   MINS,EQL, BSPC,      INS, HOME,PGUP, \
        TAB, Q,   W,   E,   R,   T,   Y,   U,   I,   O,   P,   LBRC,RBRC,BSLS,      DEL, END, PGDN, \
        CAPS, A,   S,   D,   F,   G,   H,   J,   K,   L,   SCLN,QUOT,     ENT,                       \
        LSFT,     Z,   X,   C,   V,   B,   N,   M,   COMM,DOT, SLSH,     RSFT,           UP,        \
        LCTL,LGUI,LALT,               SPC,                     RALT,FN0,RCTL,      LEFT,DOWN,RGHT),
    /* 1: media keys */
    KEYMAP_ANSI_150(\
        TRNS,     TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,      TRNS,TRNS,SLEP, \
        TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,      TRNS,TRNS,VOLU, \
        TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,      MSEL,MUTE,VOLD, \
        TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,     TRNS,                      \
        TRNS,     TRNS,TRNS,CALC,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,     TRNS,           MPLY,      \
        TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,               TRNS,                    TRNS,TRNS,TRNS,      MPRV,MSTP,MNXT)
};
static const uint16_t PROGMEM fn_actions[] = {
    [0] = ACTION_LAYER_MOMENTARY(1)
};
[code]

Now you should compile the firmware using the following command:

Code: [Select]

make -f Makefile.lufa ansi_150This requires that you have a AVR toolchain installed.

For more information about building tmk firmware look here https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/doc/build.md#build-firmware-and-program-controller

[megaforce]

Thank you Wraul!

[Denonic]

Hi all!

Just fiddling with the firmware and have hit a little snag.  I'm using the TMK source and I'm trying to program locking switches for caps lock and scroll lock.  I've managed to get caps lock to work but I've not seen any way to get Scroll working as a lock switch.

I've also managed to get NKRO to work over USB but since I'm running low on USB slots, was there any way to get the phantom working over the Ps/2 port?

Thanks!

[hasu]

CapsLock is only supported Lock key, ScrollLock and NumLock are not supported atm.
Filed this issue.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/issues/46

[agor]

Firmware was built using: make -f Makefile.pjrc iso

Just debugged the keyboard matrix, it seems the whole column0 is not working, which for iso seems: Esc, 1, Tab, Caps, LShift, LCtrl

Check your connection on pin D5

I returned!
 
Tested the connection from Pin D5 to there Square Pad of the Diode, every connection in Column 0 works. Diodes are also correct (black band to square) and measured fine from the back side of the pcb (soldered diodes on front).
Keys dont register

Two fairly highres pics of front & back attached, maybe someone can catch something. But don't laugh at these solder joints, they were my first

I also tried using another firmware (this: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=26742.msg640096#msg640096), same problem

[damorgue]

edit: nevermind

[WhiteFireDragon]

How did you know it "measured fine"? Did you use continuity test or resistance test? There must be continuity between the teensy legs and all switches/diodes. If you've already done this, then something is wrong during the firmware flashing, or the firmware itself.


Btw, you won't be able to mount switches for #4 and #5 properly, because solder joints from the teensy on that side are not flush. Also, when you're clipping the excess leads from the diodes, try not clipping the solder joint. It looks like you snipped almost all the diode solder joints. This potentially causes cold joints, so if you're not lazy, reflow all those joints.

[agor]

Multimeter: Digimess HM100 (http://www.digimessinstruments.co.uk/manuals/english/mhm100eng.pdf)

Im using the Continuity Test of to measure following points (pcb backside):

Rows:
- B5 - Top Left Switch Leg ESC: Success (Beep)
- B4 - Top Left of 1: Success
- B3 - Top Left of Tab: Success
- B2 - Top Left of Caps: Success (Both Positions)
- B1 - Top Left of Shift: Success (all 3? Positions)
- B0 - Top Left of Ctrl: Success (Both Positions)

Cols:
- D5 - Square Diode Pad of Esc Diode (D5:0) - Success
- D5 - Square Pad of 1 (D4:0) - Success
- D5 - Square Pad of Tab (D3:0) - Success
- D5 - Square Pad of Caps (D2:0) - Success
- D5 - Square Pad of Shift (D1:0) - Success
- D5 - Square Pad of Ctrl (D0:0) - Success

Diodes (using Diode Test):
- D5:0 - Success (0.56V forward voltage drop)
- D4:0 - Success (0.57V)
- D3:0 - Success (0.563V)
- D2:0 - Success (0.562V)
- D1:0 - Success (0.565V)
- D0:0 - Success (0.563V)

Continuity:
- Round Diode Pad - Bottom Right Leg of Switch ESC: Success
- 1: Success
- Tab: Success
- Caps: Success (Both Positions)
- Shift: Success (on 3 Positions)
- Ctrl: Success (Both Positions)

I really don't unterstand it. Other Diodes all show similar measures. Did I do something bad on the Teensy itself?

[damorgue]

I would just resolder both connections at D5 in case you haven't already. That is what I said in my earlier post (3 posts above) before I read that you had checked the connection, but really, why not just reflow those joints and see if it is fixed?

[agor]

Just did, still same. Continuity D5 -> Square Pads works, Actual Keys do not. I don't unterstand this
If any more pictures would be helpful, just say of which region I should take them. Have Macro Equiptment

[agor]

Macro of my soldered Teensy attached.

Continuity Test of D3 -> second pin from lower right works. D5 -> rightmost doesn't.
Did I somehow fry the Teensy pin?

[WhiteFireDragon]

Continuity doesn't tell you if something is fried or not. It just tells you if there is a broken trace or no connection, which seems to be the case here. You can try to isolate where the broken trace is, and bridge a wire at that area of possible.

[agor]

How would I unsolder the D5 pin?
I don't own a pump.

[gnubag]

How would I unsolder the D5 pin?
I don't own a pump.

you could get desolder wick for cheap and it should do the job.

[oTurtlez]

So how would I go about changing a firmware for hardware Colemak?

[gnubag]

So how would I go about changing a firmware for hardware Colemak?

Code: [Select]

/* Layer 1: COLEMAK
    *
     *
     *
     * ,---.   ,---------------. ,---------------. ,---------------. ,-----------.
     * |Esc|   |F1 |F2 |F3 |F4 | |F5 |F6 |F7 |F8 | |F9 |F10|F11|F12| |PrS|ScL|Pau|
     * `---'   `---------------' `---------------' `---------------' `-----------'
     * ,-----------------------------------------------------------. ,-----------.
     * |~  |  1|  2|  3|  4|  5|  6|  7|  8|  9|  0|  -|  =|Backsp | |Ins|Hom|PgU|
     * |-----------------------------------------------------------| |-----------|
     * |Tab  |  Q|  W|  F|  P|  G|  J|  L|  U|  Y|  ;|  [|  ]|    \| |Del|End|PgD|
     * |-----------------------------------------------------------| |---|---|---|
     * |Backsp|  A|  R|  S|  T|  D|  H|  N|  E|  I|  O|  '|Return  | |???|???|???|
     * |-----------------------------------------------------------| |---|---|---|
     * |Shift   |  Z|  X|  C|  V|  B|  K|  M|  ,|  .|  /|Shift     | |???|Up |???|
     * |-----------------------------------------------------------| |-----------|
     * |Ctl|Gui|Alt|          Space                |Alt|Gui|FN0|Ctl| |Lef|Dow|Rig|
     * `-----------------------------------------------------------' `-----------'
     */

    KEYMAP(\
        ESC, F1,  F2,  F3,  F4,  F5,  F6,  F7,  F8,  F9,  F10, F11, F12,            PSCR,SLCK,BRK, \
        GRV, 1,   2,   3,   4,   5,   6,   7,   8,   9,   0,   MINS,EQL, BSPC,      INS, HOME,PGUP, \
        TAB, Q,   W,   F,   P,   G,   J,   L,   U,   Y,   SCLN,   LBRC,RBRC,BSLS,      DEL, END, PGDN, \
        BSPC, A,   R,   S,   T,   D,   H,   N,   E,   I,   O,QUOT,     ENT,       0,   0,   0, \
        LSFT,Z,   X,   C,   V,   B,   K,   M,   COMM,DOT, SLSH,          RSFT,      0,   UP,  0, \
        CAPS,LGUI,LALT,          SPC,                     RALT,RGUI,FN0, RCTL,      LEFT,DOWN,RGHT),


that is my colemak layer.

[oTurtlez]

So how would I go about changing a firmware for hardware Colemak?

Code: [Select]

/* Layer 1: COLEMAK
    *
     *
     *
     * ,---.   ,---------------. ,---------------. ,---------------. ,-----------.
     * |Esc|   |F1 |F2 |F3 |F4 | |F5 |F6 |F7 |F8 | |F9 |F10|F11|F12| |PrS|ScL|Pau|
     * `---'   `---------------' `---------------' `---------------' `-----------'
     * ,-----------------------------------------------------------. ,-----------.
     * |~  |  1|  2|  3|  4|  5|  6|  7|  8|  9|  0|  -|  =|Backsp | |Ins|Hom|PgU|
     * |-----------------------------------------------------------| |-----------|
     * |Tab  |  Q|  W|  F|  P|  G|  J|  L|  U|  Y|  ;|  [|  ]|    \| |Del|End|PgD|
     * |-----------------------------------------------------------| |---|---|---|
     * |Backsp|  A|  R|  S|  T|  D|  H|  N|  E|  I|  O|  '|Return  | |???|???|???|
     * |-----------------------------------------------------------| |---|---|---|
     * |Shift   |  Z|  X|  C|  V|  B|  K|  M|  ,|  .|  /|Shift     | |???|Up |???|
     * |-----------------------------------------------------------| |-----------|
     * |Ctl|Gui|Alt|          Space                |Alt|Gui|FN0|Ctl| |Lef|Dow|Rig|
     * `-----------------------------------------------------------' `-----------'
     */

    KEYMAP(\
        ESC, F1,  F2,  F3,  F4,  F5,  F6,  F7,  F8,  F9,  F10, F11, F12,            PSCR,SLCK,BRK, \
        GRV, 1,   2,   3,   4,   5,   6,   7,   8,   9,   0,   MINS,EQL, BSPC,      INS, HOME,PGUP, \
        TAB, Q,   W,   F,   P,   G,   J,   L,   U,   Y,   SCLN,   LBRC,RBRC,BSLS,      DEL, END, PGDN, \
        BSPC, A,   R,   S,   T,   D,   H,   N,   E,   I,   O,QUOT,     ENT,       0,   0,   0, \
        LSFT,Z,   X,   C,   V,   B,   K,   M,   COMM,DOT, SLSH,          RSFT,      0,   UP,  0, \
        CAPS,LGUI,LALT,          SPC,                     RALT,RGUI,FN0, RCTL,      LEFT,DOWN,RGHT),


that is my colemak layer.

So how to I turn this into a hex firmware file to flash to the teensy?

[gnubag]

do you just need the colmak layer?
i can upload a hex file for you.

otherwise there should be instructions in here somewhere, so you can make your own hex file.

[hasu]

Just fiddling with the firmware and have hit a little snag.  I'm using the TMK source and I'm trying to program locking switches for caps lock and scroll lock.  I've managed to get caps lock to work but I've not seen any way to get Scroll working as a lock switch.

Fix this issue. Mechanical locking switch support for NumLock and ScrollLock are implemented now.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/issues/46

See this.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard#mechanical-locking-support

[Denonic]

Just fiddling with the firmware and have hit a little snag.  I'm using the TMK source and I'm trying to program locking switches for caps lock and scroll lock.  I've managed to get caps lock to work but I've not seen any way to get Scroll working as a lock switch.

Fix this issue. Mechanical locking switch support for NumLock and ScrollLock are implemented now.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/issues/46

See this.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard#mechanical-locking-support

Awesome!  Updated and working great.  Thank you =)