[GB] Alps Party 60% - Hannibal at the Gates

[cheddarbek]

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That's so gorgeous! I'm so regretting not getting a blue plate now. 

I love quiet clicks as a "daily driver" keyswitch, and will most likely put them on all of the keyboards that I think I'll be using often. Maybe once I try out orange switches I'll like them better, but as njbair said buying old switches are always a gamble. Considering it took me an extraordinarily long time to get my SKCM blues to feel consistent with one another, it's nice to know quiet clicks will always feel crisp and uniform.

Took me forever sorting through my oranges to find the ones that felt good and hadn't gone clicky.

I do have a donor board with blues, but I know I'll need to refurbish them before they do on anything. Is there a good guide on what all I'll need to do (cleaning, lubing, the like)? I've not yet done much with disassembling switches for repair or modifications.

[ika]

Am also having issues with the Matias stabiizers - the right shift wire seems to be too short for where the clips are mounted in the plate. Anyone had success bending this one to fit? I haven't even tried to see if it works with the keycap yet, I need to solder my diodes first. Just playing around with the setup.

[njbair]

Quiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.

Just got my stuff today and I was just thinking how similar the Quit Clicks felt to my Zealios. Perfect for me as they are my favored switches at the moment.

My pcb had been tested and the plate is nice and heavy and very... blue  I'd say shockingly blue even at first. The stabs seem tight and rattle-y, but maybe some lube will help. I was going to put on these cheapo double-shots until I realized the spacebar wouldn't fit the hhkb laybout, and Alps keycap are tight as f***. Seriously, I'd rather put on Alpine Winter in the first place and then pray I never have to take it off.

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Alps twins!

[cheddarbek]

Quiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.

Just got my stuff today and I was just thinking how similar the Quit Clicks felt to my Zealios. Perfect for me as they are my favored switches at the moment.

My pcb had been tested and the plate is nice and heavy and very... blue  I'd say shockingly blue even at first. The stabs seem tight and rattle-y, but maybe some lube will help. I was going to put on these cheapo double-shots until I realized the spacebar wouldn't fit the hhkb laybout, and Alps keycap are tight as f***. Seriously, I'd rather put on Alpine Winter in the first place and then pray I never have to take it off.

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Alps twins!

HNNGH! So feeling the error of my ways in not getting a HHKB plate, and not getting blue. Anyone have a HHKB plate they'd like to trade for an Infinity plate?

[njbair]

Quiet Clicks are underrated IMO. Probably because they are "clones." But I would say they are tied with Zealios for the best-feeling switches currently in production. When you factor in the fact that they are cheaper than Zealios and that buying old switches is always a gamble, they are probably the safest bet these days.

Just got my stuff today and I was just thinking how similar the Quit Clicks felt to my Zealios. Perfect for me as they are my favored switches at the moment.

My pcb had been tested and the plate is nice and heavy and very... blue  I'd say shockingly blue even at first. The stabs seem tight and rattle-y, but maybe some lube will help. I was going to put on these cheapo double-shots until I realized the spacebar wouldn't fit the hhkb laybout, and Alps keycap are tight as f***. Seriously, I'd rather put on Alpine Winter in the first place and then pray I never have to take it off.

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Alps twins!

HNNGH! So feeling the error of my ways in not getting a HHKB plate, and not getting blue. Anyone have a HHKB plate they'd like to trade for an Infinity plate?

I just barely made it myself. I originally ordered two kits, but spent the rest of the buy window debating a third one in HHKB with blue powder coat. I ended up adding one to my order right at the end of the buy, and as it happens it was the first one I chose to assemble.

[xauser]

I received my order today and everything looks great so far. Quality is great. Thank you BlueNalgene and hasu for this groupbuy, I'm looking forward to my first alps keyboard. This groupbuy shows what geekhack is capable of.

[Tyr]

Alps twins!

Yay ! You are a man of impeccable taste 

Edit: Haven't thanked BlueNalgene yet for a super job running this GB. Thanks ! Everything was very well packed too, and declared to avoid import tax. Super great. 

[Lurch]

My goodness I am kicking myself for not getting a painted plate.

Big thanks to Blue once again for this GB.

[sth]

got mine today! now i just need to get another plate cut to start the build. thanks blue and hasu!

[CommonCurt]

My goodness I am kicking myself for not getting a painted plate.

+1 Same here.  I don't know what I was thinking.

[deductivemonkee]

My goodness I am kicking myself for not getting a painted plate.

+1 Same here.  I don't know what I was thinking.

I know what I was thinking, 25usd I can't afford

[BlueNalgene]

A moment of silence for an anonymous INTL participant.  The package did not make it to him intact, and his plate did not arrive. 

I hope this is the only one.

[CommonCurt]

A moment of silence for an anonymous INTL participant.  The package did not make it to him intact, and his plate did not arrive. 

I hope this is the only one.

Damn that sucks. Sorry to hear that.

[tofgerl]

Yay, arrival!

Delivered to the wrong effing Post Office of course, but at least I got it in the end

Saturday is the day for building

[ShadeDream]

...and Alps keycap are tight as f***. Seriously, I'd rather put on Alpine Winter in the first place and then pray I never have to take it off.

My AEK caps are very tight as well... had to remove the space bar because the little round peg stabilizer doesn't like to stay in the plate and the backspace key because I somehow missed the catch on the cap for the stab bar and it was making a lot of noise. Was a bit nerve-racking pulling that spacebar back off...

[digi]

A moment of silence for an anonymous INTL participant.  The package did not make it to him intact, and his plate did not arrive. 

I hope this is the only one.

Damn that sucks. Sorry to hear that.

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[jbondeson]

A moment of silence for an anonymous INTL participant.  The package did not make it to him intact, and his plate did not arrive. 

I hope this is the only one.

Damn that sucks. Sorry to hear that.

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[MAR82]

Am also having issues with the Matias stabiizers - the right shift wire seems to be too short for where the clips are mounted in the plate. Anyone had success bending this one to fit? I haven't even tried to see if it works with the keycap yet, I need to solder my diodes first. Just playing around with the setup.

I'm having the same issue

[cheddarbek]

A moment of silence for an anonymous INTL participant.  The package did not make it to him intact, and his plate did not arrive. 

I hope this is the only one.

F

Am also having issues with the Matias stabiizers - the right shift wire seems to be too short for where the clips are mounted in the plate. Anyone had success bending this one to fit? I haven't even tried to see if it works with the keycap yet, I need to solder my diodes first. Just playing around with the setup.

I'm having the same issue

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If you've got a donor board, you could use the stab wire from that. That's what I ended up doing.

[vivalarevolución]

Am also having issues with the Matias stabiizers - the right shift wire seems to be too short for where the clips are mounted in the plate. Anyone had success bending this one to fit? I haven't even tried to see if it works with the keycap yet, I need to solder my diodes first. Just playing around with the setup.

I'm having the same issue

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I had that issue with the KBParadise V60 board Matias board and tried to use it with Badwrench's modifier set.  My solution was buying Hacker layouts when I had the opportunity.

[digi]

How do you guys get those stab inserts into the plate from the top? Do you attach them to the stab wire first?

[njbair]

How do you guys get those stab inserts into the plate from the top? Do you attach them to the stab wire first?

Tweezers.

[cheddarbek]

How do you guys get those stab inserts into the plate from the top? Do you attach them to the stab wire first?

Tweezers.

I place the front...hook inside the plate while holding them with tweezers, then force the back of the insert down with a small flathead screwdriver.

[digi]

How do you guys get those stab inserts into the plate from the top? Do you attach them to the stab wire first?

Tweezers.

I place the front...hook inside the plate while holding them with tweezers, then force the back of the insert down with a small flathead screwdriver.

That did it, thanks mang!

[cheddarbek]

So given that I now realize I was a dope for not getting a blue plate - does anyone have suggestions on how to make one blue?

As far as I know, there isn't anywhere around me that does powdercoating....how janky is spray paint gonna be? How likely will I be to jack up the tolerances for mounting the switches. Anyone got ideas on how to proceed?

[sean]

So given that I now realize I was a dope for not getting a blue plate - does anyone have suggestions on how to make one blue?

As far as I know, there isn't anywhere around me that does powdercoating....how janky is spray paint gonna be? How likely will I be to jack up the tolerances for mounting the switches. Anyone got ideas on how to proceed?

Plenty of people have spray painted their plates. On the off chance you mess up tolerances you have plenty of options to sand or file the mounts.

[VinnyCordeiro]

So given that I now realize I was a dope for not getting a blue plate - does anyone have suggestions on how to make one blue?

As far as I know, there isn't anywhere around me that does powdercoating....how janky is spray paint gonna be? How likely will I be to jack up the tolerances for mounting the switches. Anyone got ideas on how to proceed?

You need to apply a coat of primer first, paint doesn't stick well when used directly over metal. And you can tape the parts of the plate where dimensions are crucial before applying primer/paint.

[cheddarbek]

So given that I now realize I was a dope for not getting a blue plate - does anyone have suggestions on how to make one blue?

As far as I know, there isn't anywhere around me that does powdercoating....how janky is spray paint gonna be? How likely will I be to jack up the tolerances for mounting the switches. Anyone got ideas on how to proceed?

You need to apply a coat of primer first, paint doesn't stick well when used directly over metal. And you can tape the parts of the plate where dimensions are crucial before applying primer/paint.

Primer, naturally. I suppose'd just tape over the switch holes...that might be tedious, but probably worth it.

I know some people sand before painting? I suppose I'll need to do that. Any notion of how coarse I'll want?

I've also read that some folks apply an enamel or clear coat after paint...assuming I've taped off the switch holes, I'll probably want to do that as well, neh?

[njbair]

So given that I now realize I was a dope for not getting a blue plate - does anyone have suggestions on how to make one blue?

As far as I know, there isn't anywhere around me that does powdercoating....how janky is spray paint gonna be? How likely will I be to jack up the tolerances for mounting the switches. Anyone got ideas on how to proceed?

You need to apply a coat of primer first, paint doesn't stick well when used directly over metal. And you can tape the parts of the plate where dimensions are crucial before applying primer/paint.

Primer, naturally. I suppose'd just tape over the switch holes...that might be tedious, but probably worth it.

I know some people sand before painting? I suppose I'll need to do that. Any notion of how coarse I'll want?

I've also read that some folks apply an enamel or clear coat after paint...assuming I've taped off the switch holes, I'll probably want to do that as well, neh?

With the brushed surface of these plates, I'm wondering if you would need to bother sanding first. You also don't really need to worry about painting the bottom, unless you really want to, since it will likely be hidden inside the case.

[digi]

Am also having issues with the Matias stabiizers - the right shift wire seems to be too short for where the clips are mounted in the plate. Anyone had success bending this one to fit? I haven't even tried to see if it works with the keycap yet, I need to solder my diodes first. Just playing around with the setup.

I'm having the same issue

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If the matias 2.75x stab wire is the correct length for the right shift key on the Dell layout then I think we can just cut a small notch out of the plastic on either side of the stab mounts and it should be fine.

[crazystu]

Am also having issues with the Matias stabiizers - the right shift wire seems to be too short for where the clips are mounted in the plate. Anyone had success bending this one to fit? I haven't even tried to see if it works with the keycap yet, I need to solder my diodes first. Just playing around with the setup.

I have this problem as well, will try and gently file down the clips when I get a chance. Sorry to hear about the international package, mine arrived to New Zealand in great shape.
Thanks for the GB BlueNalgene.

[rand77]

My kit arrived at my doorstep in Canada earlier this week

I do have a few questions regarding the assembly:

1. I am placing the diodes at the bottom, but do you guys apply the solder at the bottom side of the PCB (right on the legs of the diode), or from the top side (like a typical thru hold component)?   I think if I solder them from the top side (like a typical thru hold component) it will create small bumps which interfere and raise the plate off the PCB?

2. Do I need to be careful with the diodes being shorted by aluminum cases (the TEX case I have is anodized and shouldn't conductive).   I can order SOD123 diodes and have access to a hot air rework station if it makes things easier / more elegant.



I'll report back with pics once its all assembled this weekend.

[cheddarbek]

My kit arrived at my doorstep in Canada earlier this week

I do have a few questions regarding the assembly:

1. Do you guys solder the diodes from the bottom side of the PCB, or from the top side?   I think if I solder them from the top side (like a typical thru hold component) it will create small bumps which interfere and raise the plate off the PCB?

2. Do I need to be careful with the diodes being shorted by aluminum cases (the TEX case I have is anodized and shouldn't conductive).   I can order SOD123 diodes and have access to a hot air rework station if it makes things easier / more elegant.



I'll report back with pics once its all assembled this weekend.

The board is designed for the diodes to be on the bottom, although it is possible to solder them on top. Hasu recommends soldering from bottom.

It's possible to experience shorts with an aluminum case. I had shorts with my TEX case, but I resolved it by insulating the case with electrical tape.

[rand77]

Thanks for the advice!  Insulating tape is a great idea.

Just to to clarify, of course I will place the diodes on the bottom of the PCB.  However, should I apply solder at the bottom, or from the top side (as its usually done with thru hole)? 

My kit arrived at my doorstep in Canada earlier this week

I do have a few questions regarding the assembly:

1. Do you guys solder the diodes from the bottom side of the PCB, or from the top side?   I think if I solder them from the top side (like a typical thru hold component) it will create small bumps which interfere and raise the plate off the PCB?

2. Do I need to be careful with the diodes being shorted by aluminum cases (the TEX case I have is anodized and shouldn't conductive).   I can order SOD123 diodes and have access to a hot air rework station if it makes things easier / more elegant.



I'll report back with pics once its all assembled this weekend.

The board is designed for the diodes to be on the bottom, although it is possible to solder them on top. Hasu recommends soldering from bottom.

It's possible to experience shorts with an aluminum case. I had shorts with my TEX case, but I resolved it by insulating the case with electrical tape.

[cheddarbek]

Thanks for the advice!  Insulating tape is a great idea.

Just to to clarify, of course I will place the diodes on the bottom of the PCB.  However, should I apply solder at the bottom, or from the top side (as its usually done with thru hole)? 

The top.

[deductivemonkee]

Canada Post says they delivered it! Can't wait to get home and start assembling it!

[jdcarpe]

Pssst, hey Alps fans:


JANUARY 2016 GEEK HACK DOUBLE SHOT GROUP BUY

[phosphoric]

does anybody have any idea why the keymap editor doesn't generate the hex file of the layout i created? all the hex files are standard ansi layout

[cheddarbek]

Pssst, hey Alps fans:


JANUARY 2016 GEEK HACK DOUBLE SHOT GROUP BUY

CONFIRMED FOR BRAWL

[phosphoric]

does anybody have any idea why the keymap editor doesn't generate the hex file of the layout i created? all the hex files are standard ansi layout

nevermind... got it working. if this is an issue for anybody else in the future, it's not a problem with hasu's site - it was my own error. "erase target device memory," and then "program target device memory," and then click "start application."

also, thanks for running this blue. the aek ii that the switches, caps, and stabs were harvested from has a lot more significance because of recent real-life events, and being able to use them every day rather than allowing the original keyboard to collect dust in a closet means a lot

[deductivemonkee]

Wooooooooooo! Got mine today!

[phosphoric]

Wooooooooooo! Got mine today!

have fun with it! this was the first time i used a soldering iron to solder something and it went without a hitch

[BlueNalgene]

does anybody have any idea why the keymap editor doesn't generate the hex file of the layout i created? all the hex files are standard ansi layout

nevermind... got it working. if this is an issue for anybody else in the future, it's not a problem with hasu's site - it was my own error. "erase target device memory," and then "program target device memory," and then click "start application."

also, thanks for running this blue. the aek ii that the switches, caps, and stabs were harvested from has a lot more significance because of recent real-life events, and being able to use them every day rather than allowing the original keyboard to collect dust in a closet means a lot

Glad you found the solution to that problem.  I wouldn't have guessed that. 

[njbair]

I ran into a snag on my HHKB build because I didn't account for the extra keymap position that's available for ISO short right shift. This was my first time adapting one of my TMK keymap files to a different layout, so I had a bit of a learning curve. But once I got that figured out it was smooth sailing.

I recommend that everyone fork tmk_keyboard on GitHub and add your own custom layouts to that fork. That way you keep a nice history of your own work. I've been doing this since I first started with TMK early last year, and it's been a big help. I even maintain my own section in the README file to remind myself how to build and flash my stuff. Here's a link, in case anyone's interested: http://github.com/njbair/tmk_keyboard

[nathanrosspowell]

Mine arrived safely today. I appreciate the packing effort 

But, seriously blue, what am I meant to do with one stab insert? 



lol

Not complaining, you are my Alps hero!

[phosphoric]

Mine arrived safely today. I appreciate the packing effort 

But, seriously blue, what am I meant to do with one stab insert? 

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lol

Not complaining, you are my Alps hero!

that's an alps-mx converter, friend! put it in an alps switch and then attach your favorite mx artisan key

[nathanrosspowell]

Mine arrived safely today. I appreciate the packing effort 

But, seriously blue, what am I meant to do with one stab insert? 

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lol

Not complaining, you are my Alps hero!

that's an alps-mx converter, friend! put it in an alps switch and then attach your favorite mx artisan key

Well well well! Seems I missed out on the details of this little extra - can't wait to test that out, cheers Blue!

[BlueNalgene]

Yep.  It is my effort to make dissuade the common complaint that there are no artisans for Alps.

[deductivemonkee]

Am also having issues with the Matias stabiizers - the right shift wire seems to be too short for where the clips are mounted in the plate. Anyone had success bending this one to fit? I haven't even tried to see if it works with the keycap yet, I need to solder my diodes first. Just playing around with the setup.

I'm having the same issue

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If the matias 2.75x stab wire is the correct length for the right shift key on the Dell layout then I think we can just cut a small notch out of the plastic on either side of the stab mounts and it should be fine.

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I bent a wire out of a paper clip. So far so good.

[swimmingbird]

Mine arrived safely today. I appreciate the packing effort 

But, seriously blue, what am I meant to do with one stab insert? 

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lol

Not complaining, you are my Alps hero!

that's an alps-mx converter, friend! put it in an alps switch and then attach your favorite mx artisan key

Well well well! Seems I missed out on the details of this little extra - can't wait to test that out, cheers Blue!

Just be careful when using these as the shapeways stuff isn't that precise

I cracked an MX stem on an SA key but trying to jam it in