[Group buy] Ergonomics : LZ ErGO TKL Full Alu (COMPLETED)

[blighty]

I don't have anything mapped to that key.  Come to think of it, I didn't bind anything to the second and fourth keys on the bottom left either.  The keyboard is almost wasted on me, right?  LOL

[_BMW_M3_]

So since this keyboard isn't the most... JigOn GUI friendly, does anyone have a keymap with "B" on the right hand side of the keyboard?

Here you go:

If you're en-us choose keyboard->connect in the JigOn UI and then when you press a key on the keyboard it will highlight in the UI similar to how BootMapper Client does it.

For whatever reason, it is NOT highlighting for me Ty for map though!

[MajorKoos]

So since this keyboard isn't the most... JigOn GUI friendly, does anyone have a keymap with "B" on the right hand side of the keyboard?

Here you go:

If you're en-us choose keyboard->connect in the JigOn UI and then when you press a key on the keyboard it will highlight in the UI similar to how BootMapper Client does it.

For whatever reason, it is NOT highlighting for me Ty for map though!

Sweet. 
Holler if you need some more tweaks to that keymap - like moving the FN keys etc.

[_BMW_M3_]

Anyone else having issues with their Ergo PCB? This is my second PCB and the MCU is fried.

[MajorKoos]

Anyone else having issues with their Ergo PCB? This is my second PCB and the MCU is fried.

I thought I'd fried mine at first, but re-flashing both the bootloader and firmware with an ISP did the trick - not a single issue since.
In my case there seems to be something odd going on with the in-switch LED's - toggling them on caused the board to reboot and brick itself.

If you have an ISP programmer (or a raspberry pi to use as one) I can send you the bootloader/firmware to test.
At the very least the ISP will let you know if the MCU is truly fried.

[boo]

Anyone else having issues with their Ergo PCB? This is my second PCB and the MCU is fried.

I have issues when I unplug and replug the pcb the board is bricked. I had Leeku looked at it and he said there are no problems after re flashing using ISP and AVRDUDE. I think it's my USB port corrupting the board


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[MajorKoos]

Anyone else having issues with their Ergo PCB? This is my second PCB and the MCU is fried.

I have issues when I unplug and replug the pcb the board is bricked. I had Leeku looked at it and he said there are no problems after re flashing using ISP and AVRDUDE. I think it's my USB port corrupting the board

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you using in-switch LEDs?

[blighty]

I haven't had any problems with the pcb as of late, but I didn't solder in in-switch LEDs.  I managed to spill sake on mine, but after a quick rubbing alcohol bath, things were back to normal.  Hope you get your issue sorted soon. 

[boo]

Anyone else having issues with their Ergo PCB? This is my second PCB and the MCU is fried.

I have issues when I unplug and replug the pcb the board is bricked. I had Leeku looked at it and he said there are no problems after re flashing using ISP and AVRDUDE. I think it's my USB port corrupting the board

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you using in-switch LEDs?

Yeah I do. Sip sockets, funny I can tell when my keyboard is working or not working because when I plug in and doesn't work, only the WASD and Arrow in switch leds turn on. If it works, all leds turn on. :/ weird I tried rebooting using isp and update to the latest firmware and when I turn off in switch led, the board bricks. It's recognized by jigon and I can program it but led is wonky to me.


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[MajorKoos]

Anyone else having issues with their Ergo PCB? This is my second PCB and the MCU is fried.

I have issues when I unplug and replug the pcb the board is bricked. I had Leeku looked at it and he said there are no problems after re flashing using ISP and AVRDUDE. I think it's my USB port corrupting the board

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you using in-switch LEDs?

Yeah I do. Sip sockets, funny I can tell when my keyboard is working or not working because when I plug in and doesn't work, only the WASD and Arrow in switch leds turn on. If it works, all leds turn on. :/ weird I tried rebooting using isp and update to the latest firmware and when I turn off in switch led, the board bricks. It's recognized by jigon and I can program it but led is wonky to me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thought so.
Mine was very wonky with the LED's installed.
Toggling them on was enough to cause the board to reboot and brick itself.
I suspect that it's a power issue causing the firmware to corrupt on the board.
After removing all the LEDs and reflashing the firmware the board has been 100% stable for me.

[boo]

Anyone else having issues with their Ergo PCB? This is my second PCB and the MCU is fried.

I have issues when I unplug and replug the pcb the board is bricked. I had Leeku looked at it and he said there are no problems after re flashing using ISP and AVRDUDE. I think it's my USB port corrupting the board

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you using in-switch LEDs?

Yeah I do. Sip sockets, funny I can tell when my keyboard is working or not working because when I plug in and doesn't work, only the WASD and Arrow in switch leds turn on. If it works, all leds turn on. :/ weird I tried rebooting using isp and update to the latest firmware and when I turn off in switch led, the board bricks. It's recognized by jigon and I can program it but led is wonky to me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thought so.
Mine was very wonky with the LED's installed.
Toggling them on was enough to cause the board to reboot and brick itself.
I suspect that it's a power issue causing the firmware to corrupt on the board.
After removing all the LEDs and reflashing the firmware the board has been 100% stable for me.

Hmm it is sip socketed so do you think simply removing the LED may be enough? Desoldering is a pain


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[xauser]

Some weeks ago I had to debug my tmk port of lz ergo l3 because of random firmware crashes. I use this firmware on other l3 based boards (lzcp, tx1800) without any issues. After some hours of debugging it turned out that the (on my board) unsoldered rgb leds caused the issue. I patched my firmware to stop sending any rgb led requests and it became stable.

I don't know jigon and/or original firmware that much but maybe you could try to avoid doing any rgb led based commands there or you could try to solder at least rgb led 1. Maybe that will cure your issues as well.

[boo]

Some weeks ago I had to debug my tmk port of lz ergo l3 because of random firmware crashes. I use this firmware on other l3 based boards (lzcp, tx1800) without any issues. After some hours of debugging it turned out that the (on my board) unsoldered rgb leds caused the issue. I patched my firmware to stop sending any rgb led requests and it became stable.

I don't know jigon and/or original firmware that much but maybe you could try to avoid doing any rgb led based commands there or you could try to solder at least rgb led 1. Maybe that will cure your issues as well.

I will give that a try. Right now, i removed all leds, and jigon is able to recognize my keys when I type all the rows and columns but the keys won't register normally. Did this ever occur to you?


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[MajorKoos]

Some weeks ago I had to debug my tmk port of lz ergo l3 because of random firmware crashes. I use this firmware on other l3 based boards (lzcp, tx1800) without any issues. After some hours of debugging it turned out that the (on my board) unsoldered rgb leds caused the issue. I patched my firmware to stop sending any rgb led requests and it became stable.

I don't know jigon and/or original firmware that much but maybe you could try to avoid doing any rgb led based commands there or you could try to solder at least rgb led 1. Maybe that will cure your issues as well.

I will give that a try. Right now, i removed all leds, and jigon is able to recognize my keys when I type all the rows and columns but the keys won't register normally. Did this ever occur to you?


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Wow - that's strange.
JigOn recognizes the correct key, but nothing comes through in windows?
What if you re-write the keymap to the KBD?
I posted one here if you want to test: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=83971.msg2395821#msg2395821

[boo]

Some weeks ago I had to debug my tmk port of lz ergo l3 because of random firmware crashes. I use this firmware on other l3 based boards (lzcp, tx1800) without any issues. After some hours of debugging it turned out that the (on my board) unsoldered rgb leds caused the issue. I patched my firmware to stop sending any rgb led requests and it became stable.

I don't know jigon and/or original firmware that much but maybe you could try to avoid doing any rgb led based commands there or you could try to solder at least rgb led 1. Maybe that will cure your issues as well.

I will give that a try. Right now, i removed all leds, and jigon is able to recognize my keys when I type all the rows and columns but the keys won't register normally. Did this ever occur to you?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow - that's strange.
JigOn recognizes the correct key, but nothing comes through in windows?
What if you re-write the keymap to the KBD?
I posted one here if you want to test: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=83971.msg2395821#msg2395821

I will give it a try. Thank you!

Edit: the way you describe is exactly what is happening :/


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[boo]

Nope didn't work.

How do I port in TMK? Can you help me please?

[leeku]

Hey I am here.
Would you some one summary the status for me?

[TerryMathews]

Hey I am here.
Would you some one summary the status for me?

Hi Leeku - I'm the person who's built the Ergo for _BMW_M3_. The problem he was having was that upon plugging the keyboard in it would report as an Unidentified USB device, and not respond nor allow him to connect via JigOn. We reflashed the board with an USBasp and it was still exhibiting the same issue.

I want to point out that he had me install RGB LEDs and in-switch LEDs on the whole board.

MajorKoos reported a similar issue and was able to correct it by desoldering the LEDs from his board. Working from that, I desoldered RGB #1 and reflashed - same issue persisted. I desoldered the in-switch LEDs from the right-hand side of the board (PrSc,ScrLk,Paus,Home,Ins,PgUp,End,Del,PgDn, and the arrows) reflashed and I was able to connect via JigOn.

At this point I reconnected RGB #1 and the board was still functional. The board is now working properly with in-switch LEDs and RGB LEDs on, and connecting and programming via JigOn without issue.

Based on the fact that removing 13 LEDs corrected the issue, I think there's something wrong with the LED drive circuit on this PCB. Since it is appearing on at least two PCBs, I wonder if it isn't some sort of design flaw? Is there any way to control in-switch LED intensity aside from the resistors on the PCB?

[boo]

Hey I am here.
Would you some one summary the status for me?

Hi Leeku - I'm the person who's built the Ergo for _BMW_M3_. The problem he was having was that upon plugging the keyboard in it would report as an Unidentified USB device, and not respond nor allow him to connect via JigOn. We reflashed the board with an USBasp and it was still exhibiting the same issue.

I want to point out that he had me install RGB LEDs and in-switch LEDs on the whole board.

MajorKoos reported a similar issue and was able to correct it by desoldering the LEDs from his board. Working from that, I desoldered RGB #1 and reflashed - same issue persisted. I desoldered the in-switch LEDs from the right-hand side of the board (PrSc,ScrLk,Paus,Home,Ins,PgUp,End,Del,PgDn, and the arrows) reflashed and I was able to connect via JigOn.

At this point I reconnected RGB #1 and the board was still functional. The board is now working properly with in-switch LEDs and RGB LEDs on, and connecting and programming via JigOn without issue.

Based on the fact that removing 13 LEDs corrected the issue, I think there's something wrong with the LED drive circuit on this PCB. Since it is appearing on at least two PCBs, I wonder if it isn't some sort of design flaw? Is there any way to control in-switch LED intensity aside from the resistors on the PCB?

Hi Leeku,  I would like to add that you have inspected my board when you were in California and we exchanged few emails since then. The board was fine when I received from you but now, I get the same issue as Terry. I reflashed using AVRDUDE, worked for a week, then the board died. Today, I am able to connect to JigOn, Jigon recognized my keystrokes and I am able to program the board but windows does not recognize my keystrokes. I tried on two PCs and multiple cables but same issue.

I am using plastic screws and sip socket trimmed as suggested but there are no led anymore. Thanks!


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[MajorKoos]

I should point out I had to reflash both the boot loader and the firmware.
Have you tried both?

[TerryMathews]

I should point out I had to reflash both the boot loader and the firmware.
Have you tried both?

How did you reflash bootloader? I've only got the hex file for the firmware.

[boo]

I should point out I had to reflash both the boot loader and the firmware.
Have you tried both?

I second that too. Im with terry on this one.

[MajorKoos]

I should point out I had to reflash both the boot loader and the firmware.
Have you tried both?

I second that too. Im with terry on this one.

Here you go.
Firmware, boot loader, etc.
First do the boot loader, then do the firmware.

My theory is that the boot loader fixes the brown out detection settings and stops further corruption, but I haven't put anything other than the indicator LEDs back in to test.

[boo]

I should point out I had to reflash both the boot loader and the firmware.
Have you tried both?

I second that too. Im with terry on this one.

Here you go.
Firmware, boot loader, etc.
First do the boot loader, then do the firmware.

My theory is that the boot loader fixes the brown out detection settings and stops further corruption, but I haven't put anything other than the indicator LEDs back in to test.

Oh, I've been rewriting the bootloader using AVRdude since the beginning. Only way to upload the new FW because without a new bootloader, my PC won't detect my keyboard. Thanks for the files tho!

[MajorKoos]

I should point out I had to reflash both the boot loader and the firmware.
Have you tried both?

I second that too. Im with terry on this one.

Here you go.
Firmware, boot loader, etc.
First do the boot loader, then do the firmware.

My theory is that the boot loader fixes the brown out detection settings and stops further corruption, but I haven't put anything other than the indicator LEDs back in to test.

Oh, I've been rewriting the bootloader using AVRdude since the beginning. Only way to upload the new FW because without a new bootloader, my PC won't detect my keyboard. Thanks for the files tho!

OK, that kind of makes sense.
In theory then the road to success is to skip the in switch LEDs and reflash the FW and bootloader via an ISP.
RGB LEDs may still be an option though - I didn't install them and had similar issues anyway.

All being said and done though, after removing the LEDs and reflashing I haven't had a single issue.
It's a wonderful keyboard to use.

[boo]

I should point out I had to reflash both the boot loader and the firmware.
Have you tried both?

I second that too. Im with terry on this one.

Here you go.
Firmware, boot loader, etc.
First do the boot loader, then do the firmware.

My theory is that the boot loader fixes the brown out detection settings and stops further corruption, but I haven't put anything other than the indicator LEDs back in to test.

Oh, I've been rewriting the bootloader using AVRdude since the beginning. Only way to upload the new FW because without a new bootloader, my PC won't detect my keyboard. Thanks for the files tho!

OK, that kind of makes sense.
In theory then the road to success is to skip the in switch LEDs and reflash the FW and bootloader via an ISP.
RGB LEDs may still be an option though - I didn't install them and had similar issues anyway.

All being said and done though, after removing the LEDs and reflashing I haven't had a single issue.
It's a wonderful keyboard to use.

Well I removed all the leds but not the sip socket. I'm thinking since the leds aren't installed it shouldn't make a connection?? I'm noob at electronics so that's my understanding of it. Ordering some rgb led to give it a try


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[leeku]

Here is some possible flaws,

1. Actually whole LEDs in the switch consumes the current. - Try the other cables.
2. Showing BootHID on "device&printer" when you plug holding "~"key confirms that there is no problem in circuit as well as bootloader.
3. Try to plug in holing "U" key , which make the keyboard to USB mode instead of PS/2 mode(plugin holding "P") key.
4. For boo, I think you may see the "L3"keyboard on "Device&Printer" when the keyboards plugged(it makes sense because the JigOn recognize the keyboard) - maybe some problems in key map otherwise there is some problem in switch matrix circuit. -> try to update latest FW and use JigOn on http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_sw&document_srl=2702787

Please contact me via "leeku11" @ skype it's easier to handling one to one.

[boo]

Here is some possible flaws,

1. Actually whole LEDs in the switch consumes the current. - Try the other cables.
2. Showing BootHID on "device&printer" when you plug holding "~"key confirms that there is no problem in circuit as well as bootloader.
3. Try to plug in holing "U" key , which make the keyboard to USB mode instead of PS/2 mode(plugin holding "P") key.
4. For boo, I think you may see the "L3"keyboard on "Device&Printer" when the keyboards plugged(it makes sense because the JigOn recognize the keyboard) - maybe some problems in key map otherwise there is some problem in switch matrix circuit. -> try to update latest FW and use JigOn on http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_sw&document_srl=2702787

Please contact me via "leeku11" @ skype it's easier to handling one to one.

Hi leeku, I messaged you on Skype.

I think there is a problem with in switch matrix circuit. I used the lastest firmware and jigon but still has problem. My Device Printer show L3 Keyboard and Jigon recognize.

[boo]

Here is some possible flaws,

1. Actually whole LEDs in the switch consumes the current. - Try the other cables.
2. Showing BootHID on "device&printer" when you plug holding "~"key confirms that there is no problem in circuit as well as bootloader.
3. Try to plug in holing "U" key , which make the keyboard to USB mode instead of PS/2 mode(plugin holding "P") key.
4. For boo, I think you may see the "L3"keyboard on "Device&Printer" when the keyboards plugged(it makes sense because the JigOn recognize the keyboard) - maybe some problems in key map otherwise there is some problem in switch matrix circuit. -> try to update latest FW and use JigOn on http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_sw&document_srl=2702787

Please contact me via "leeku11" @ skype it's easier to handling one to one.

All, I just had a quick Skype session with Leeku. He was super helpful and fixed my board within minutes.

Leeku used Command prompt to read the settings in the keyboard.

The solution he used briefly

1. He place all the FW and files with JigOn on desktop
2. went to CMD and typed "cd Desktop"
3. Typed "l3cmd printcfg"and it showed all the settings in the chip including some settings that are not available through JigOn
4. He noticed that my matrix debounce was set at 255. I understood this as the time it takes for the key press to go through the circuitry and register in the computer.
5. He typed "l3cmd set debounce 5" to set my debounce to 5 and now the board works perfectly. I am typing on the ERGO as we speak.

Thank you Leeku and the support that you provided. He suggested to reach him via skype. I suggest if you have a webcam or mic it helps because you can't use the keyboard while hes helping you.

[Trente]

I grabbed my LZ ergo from my shelf after it sitting in there for two months, and it stops working somehow... Originally there are three working indicator LED, but now one of them seems dead, and I checked it and it seem that socket is dead... Both my mac and windows laptop can't recognize the PCB, so I am wondering if anyone know how to test to make sure if the PCB is completely dead or there is some funny bug(hope so) that cause the recognition problem. I had tested to plug in the PCB while pressing any keys on the keyboard, and it seems not working so far ... (Weirdly the backup PCB I given to my friend is still functional though it is never been assembled).

[blighty]

If the socket seems dead, perhaps try reflowing the solder joints around the usb socket? 

edit:  One of my indicator lights (scroll lock) has been on from after the first month I used the board.  At first it annoyed me, but eventually it was an easy way to tell if my keyboard was getting power without touching the PC.  When I desoldered the board a couple of weeks ago (swapped out Gat Clears for Cherry silent reds), I made sure that it wasn't shorting on the plate and I reflowed the offending light's connections, but didn't help.  To, I guess in my case, the scroll lock light is now a power indicator....   

I love the board, but it's a shame about the random PCB issues.

I hope you find the solution!

[Trente]

I love the board, but it's a shame about the random PCB issues.

I hope you find the solution!

I agreed there are sometimes some random PCB issue going on, but overall I enjoy using this board (and that's way I gave up several board I collected these few month back to this one).
I think my issue might be some random problem, but I just managed to fix it after trying the ~ key when plugging in usb cable for several times. Hope this problem don't happened again as I use it as my daily board again.

[Kafka]

Hey guys, I'm getting my kit in a few days and was wondering what to do to avoid some of the issues people have been having with the pcb. Any tips what to do for leds and such? No leds or no sips or just sips etc? Thanks

[MajorKoos]

I'd avoid all LED's (except the indicators) unless you have an ISP programmer handy.
My bootloader ended up corrupted after installing in-switch LEDs.

[TerryMathews]

Hey guys, I'm getting my kit in a few days and was wondering what to do to avoid some of the issues people have been having with the pcb. Any tips what to do for leds and such? No leds or no sips or just sips etc? Thanks

My reco is no in-switch LEDs and no RGBs (I think there was only 1 RGB-compatible case made anyway?). It seems like the bootloader corruption is related to power draw - can't explain it but it happens far too consistently to be a coincidence. The difference between BMW M3's board working and not was the presence of LEDs on the far right modifiers and arrow keys.

[alienman82]

removed.

[TerryMathews]

No one knows, but the PCB is a one-off design. I suspect there's an issue with the wiring powering at least one of the LED drive relays (I counted 5).

I've never had issues with other Leeku boards either. It can't be random defect for the number of reports on it. It must be a flaw in the circuit itself.

[LifeZ]

Leeku can help you with pcb.
Please change to the latest firmware.

F/W : http://kbdlab.co.kr/?module=file&act=procFileDownload&file_srl=4320094&sid=ebbdca3c12b3174f582b4c8dc470ecce
S/W : http://kbdlab.co.kr/?module=file&act=procFileDownload&file_srl=4320093&sid=a2dfd681007fec4c849850a5530a4df9

[Kafka]

LZ do you have any of the files for the wrist wrest? Kin doesn't have anymore and my friend and I would like to get some made. thx!

[LifeZ]

LZ do you have any of the files for the wrist wrest? Kin doesn't have anymore and my friend and I would like to get some made. thx!

Give me a pm
( your e-mail)

[alienman82]

removed.

[AL1234]

Hey LZ any chance you're still selling these keyboards?

I'm keen to get one asap.

[DALExSNAIL]

Hey LZ any chance you're still selling these keyboards?

I'm keen to get one asap.

LZ likely isn't selling these as the last post in this thread is from 2017 man.

Post on r/mechmarket and you'll get a better response.

[AL1234]

no worries thanks Dude, will do!

[efikeebs]

  Nice