Author Topic: Options for DIY media controller?  (Read 1854 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline dsc.

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 43
  • Location: MD, USA
Options for DIY media controller?
« on: Sun, 30 March 2014, 13:54:55 »
So I'm planning on getting Teensy 2.0 to make a media controller (play/pause, next/previous track, volume up/down/mute). What are my options as far as switch mounts? I know I could get a switch tester and wire it up that way, but I was hoping to find a cheaper route. Could I get an old num pad, remove the cable, and just wire the switches to Teensy?

Any input or other viable options would be appreciated. Thanks!

HHKB Pro 2
Ducky Pro Limited MX Brown/White Hybrid
Poker II MX Brown
Leopold FC660M MX Blue

Offline Hak Foo

  • Posts: 1270
  • Make America Clicky Again!
Re: Options for DIY media controller?
« Reply #1 on: Sun, 30 March 2014, 14:38:18 »
You surely could.

Other alternatives:

* Get some plexiglass laser-cut
* 3D printing
* Sytrene structural shapes (from a hobby store) assembled into a frame for the switches
* Meccano
Overton130, Box Pale Blues.

Offline dsc.

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 43
  • Location: MD, USA
Re: Options for DIY media controller?
« Reply #2 on: Sun, 30 March 2014, 15:13:44 »
You surely could.

Other alternatives:

* Get some plexiglass laser-cut
* 3D printing
* Sytrene structural shapes (from a hobby store) assembled into a frame for the switches
* Meccano

Thanks for the input!

Another question, is there a certain type/gauge of cable I need to use?

HHKB Pro 2
Ducky Pro Limited MX Brown/White Hybrid
Poker II MX Brown
Leopold FC660M MX Blue

Offline Findecanor

  • Posts: 5036
  • Location: Koriko
Re: Options for DIY media controller?
« Reply #3 on: Sun, 30 March 2014, 22:57:40 »
* Get some plexiglass laser-cut
I am assuming Cherry MX switches here.
1.5 mm plexiglass is too brittle to be used on its own - it would need a PCB.
Thicker plexiglass means that the switches will not snap to the plate, so you would need to glue them (or use a PCB).
However you could cut three layers of 1.5 mm plexi and glue those together with superglue, with the top layer made for the switches to be snapped into - that should be strong enough but not transparent.

Yet another option would be to make a PCB and use PCB-mounted switches. A few guys have made PCBs at home with kits from a store, but it is easier to reused a part of a PCB from an existing keyboard with PCB-mounted switches, reuse part of the matrix and hand-wire the rest.

* Sytrene structural shapes (from a hobby store) assembled into a frame for the switches
That would involve a bit of cutting... and styrene can not be laser-cut.
I think that pure Polystyrene (PS) is actually too brittle, but HiPS (polystyrene with butadiene in it) or ABS (HiPS with acrylene in it) would work well. Often styrene is only labeled "styrene" when it can be either type of plastic.

Another question, is there a certain type/gauge of cable I need to use?
Not really. You could cut up a ribbon cable into individual cables, and have it remain connected near the controller - that could be more tidy than a rats-nest of wires, but requires more thinking ahead.

I must warn you that programming the firmware is not straightforward. Most freely available firmwares for the Teensy 2.0 are made for regular keyboards, with sometimes media keys as an add-on.
The key codes for media keys are in the "Consumer" Usage Page (0x0C) in the USB HID standard.
I have assembled the codes in a table on the Deskthority Wiki.
« Last Edit: Sun, 30 March 2014, 23:11:19 by Findecanor »

Offline jacobolus

  • Posts: 3661
  • Location: San Francisco, CA
Re: Options for DIY media controller?
« Reply #4 on: Sat, 05 April 2014, 00:42:16 »
Slightly off the subject here..

1.5 mm plexiglass is too brittle to be used on its own - it would need a PCB.
Thicker plexiglass means that the switches will not snap to the plate, so you would need to glue them (or use a PCB).
However you could cut three layers of 1.5 mm plexi and glue those together with superglue, with the top layer made for the switches to be snapped into - that should be strong enough but not transparent.
I wish the Ergodox and similar projects would use one 1.5mm acrylic plate, cut to precisely fit the switches, plus one thicker plate behind it, with larger holes to not interfere w/ the switch clips. Even though they have a PCB and so the switches stay put okay, the current design puts a lot of stress on the plastic, permanently bending it, so that the switches can’t as easily be used in another keyboard later.