Designing and Making an 60% Case in Aluminum and/or Wood

[infiniti]

I've been toying with the idea of making a 60% wedge type case for a while now.  I'm slowly learning CAD but got side tracked by real life and invited a friend of mine to help out (although I am still convincing him to get a mech).

RENDERS!









We forgot to add the recesses for the bump-ons.


As is, it will be machined from T6 6061 aluminum. I could go with 7075 but it would be overkill and just add on to the price.  The inserts will be made of 4140 steel and installed on the inside of the case to keep the case bottom clean.  Probably going to have something engraved on the bottom but I haven't decided yet.

The case is estimated to weigh 1 to 1.5 kg (2.2 to 3.3 lbs).  The angle is 13-degrees (a personal preference) but I might dial it down to 11.

Another possibility is that it will be machined from wood but still have steel inserts for additional weight.  But I'd like the stand offs to be metal for durability.  I'd also need to figure out how to finish the wood.

Things to do:

• I've removed the hole on the case for access to the dip switches, how much clearance do I need between the case floor and the PCB to make this compatible with PCBs with dip switches?
• Wait on quotes for materials and machining.
• Explore anodizing options
• Explore options for wood and wood finishes

More info and renders of the wood case here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=68278.msg1624280#msg1624280

[heedpantsnow]

Cool!  Great job!

[CPTBadAss]

You're a sexy man. Really looking forward to this

[Kira]

Options for wood omg yes!

[Melvang]

If those steel inserts are just to add weight, do NOT go with steel.  It will corrode, and cause a mess.  If you want to add something for weight like that use brass.

[infiniti]

Cool!  Great job!

You're a sexy man. Really looking forward to this

Options for wood omg yes!

Thanks guys!  I wanted a simple wedge case and this is pretty much it.  I kept it simple hoping to keep machining costs down.  Anyway, I'll be meeting with the machine shop engineering studio on Tuesday to get details on pricing and in-house anodizing options.

On the wood finishes, a friend of mine makes guitars and he said I could either paint it thinly so you can see the wood grain or coat it with polyurethane to seal it.  I still have yet to talk to him about staining.


== == == == ==

If those steel inserts are just to add weight, do NOT go with steel.  It will corrode, and cause a mess.  If you want to add something for weight like that use brass.

Oops.  The inserts will be parkerized.  If it works on the 1911, it should work here.  To minimize costs, it will be cut from round bar hence the puck shape.

[bueller]

Will be keeping an eye on this.

[ProCarpet]

The inserts will be parkerized.
This is only a minimal corroding prevention in industry we only use that for unimportant stuff where it bearly is enough. I too would use brass or alu becausee you can safte the step of perkerizing.

[infiniti]

The inserts will be parkerized.
This is only a minimal corroding prevention in industry we only use that for unimportant stuff where it bearly is enough. I too would use brass or alu becausee you can safte the step of perkerizing.

Ok. Ok.  I'll look into brass inserts.

[Zeal]

Interested in seeing where this goes!

[infiniti]

Changes:

• inserts are now brass!
• for the wood case, the PCB standoffs will be brass as well
• the original angle was an INSANE 16 degrees it has been toned down to 11 degrees

To Do:

• wait for canvass for the cost of brass and then they can prepare a cost estimate
• decide on bump-ons so the recess and the bump-on can be added to the render
• decide on a name...so far I have Carabao 60

Meanwhile...MOAR RENDERS!!!









Questions:

• How much clearance do I need between the case floor and the PCB to make this compatible with PCBs with dip switches?
• Anything else I should consider?

[azhdar]

I'm not sure why you want the insert to be done underneath the PCB ?

Sure you loose the need for it to be fixed under the case, but you can't swap them without removing PCB.

Questions:

• How much clearance do I need between the case floor and the PCB to make this compatible with PCBs with dip switches?
• Anything else I should consider?

I can measure on my pokerII went I get back home if you need. But since it will make the standoffs kind of high, aren't you afraid of the flex?

[infiniti]

I'm not sure why you want the insert to be done underneath the PCB ?

Sure you loose the need for it to be fixed under the case, but you can't swap them without removing PCB.

I wanted to keep the case bottom clean...haven't decided what to put down there though.

Is swapping weights necessary?  I always thought you installed them and forgot about them.  This is important since I was considering gluing the the brass inserts in place.

Questions:

• How much clearance do I need between the case floor and the PCB to make this compatible with PCBs with dip switches?
• Anything else I should consider?

I can measure on my pokerII went I get back home if you need. But since it will make the standoffs kind of high, aren't you afraid of the flex?

That would be great! I just need to know how high the dip switches stick out of from the PCB.  If there isn't enough clearance, I won't adjust the standoff height or case floor but just add a small pocket to make room for it.

[azhdar]

I'm not sure why you want the insert to be done underneath the PCB ?

Sure you loose the need for it to be fixed under the case, but you can't swap them without removing PCB.

I wanted to keep the case bottom clean...haven't decided what to put down there though.

Is swapping weights necessary?  I always thought you installed them and forgot about them.  This is important since I was considering gluing the the brass inserts in place.

Yeah I understand the whole clean bottom point.

I have no idea if swapping weights is necessary, never own a board with the possibility, but I guess you don't change the weights daily so they are just fine under PCB.
Just used to see them under the case on korean builds.

Questions:

• How much clearance do I need between the case floor and the PCB to make this compatible with PCBs with dip switches?
• Anything else I should consider?

I can measure on my pokerII went I get back home if you need. But since it will make the standoffs kind of high, aren't you afraid of the flex?

That would be great! I just need to know how high the dip switches stick out of from the PCB.  If there isn't enough clearance, I won't adjust the standoff height or case floor but just add a small pocket to make room for it.

I'll try to remeber to do it whenever I get home.

[infiniti]

I have no idea if swapping weights is necessary, never own a board with the possibility, but I guess you don't change the weights daily so they are just fine under PCB.
Just used to see them under the case on korean builds.

Same here, I only see them in pictures.  I think the Koreans put it on the bottom of the case as a design element while still serving the purpose of adding weight.  Also, it allows for a bigger piece if it goes through-and-through.

I'll try to remeber to do it whenever I get home.

Cool man.  So...you home yet?  Just kidding...no rush )

[Synjin]

If those steel inserts are just to add weight, do NOT go with steel.  It will corrode, and cause a mess.  If you want to add something for weight like that use brass.

or Lead. Its cheaper  

[azhdar]

I have no idea if swapping weights is necessary, never own a board with the possibility, but I guess you don't change the weights daily so they are just fine under PCB.
Just used to see them under the case on korean builds.

Same here, I only see them in pictures.  I think the Koreans put it on the bottom of the case as a design element while still serving the purpose of adding weight.  Also, it allows for a bigger piece if it goes through-and-through.

I'll try to remeber to do it whenever I get home.

Cool man.  So...you home yet?  Just kidding...no rush )

Roughly 3.5mm , so you probably want 5 mm room for safety. If there's any other dimensions you need on a Poker2 pcb let me know while it's open !

[Melvang]

If those steel inserts are just to add weight, do NOT go with steel.  It will corrode, and cause a mess.  If you want to add something for weight like that use brass.

or Lead. Its cheaper  

Depending on your source yes and no.  Plus some places won't work with it due to health and enviromental issues.  Best bet is just to stick with brass in a standard size of round stock and cut rounds and plug the holes.

[CPTBadAss]

Wood isn't aluminum

[Synjin]

That's true. I honestly think it's a misconception because even if a person eats a solid lead metal, it won't actually cause them harm compared to ingesting the lead salts.

[Melvang]

That's true. I honestly think it's a misconception because even if a person eats a solid lead metal, it won't actually cause them harm compared to ingesting the lead salts.

This may be true for the end user but I was thinking in terms of the machine shop that has to make stuff with it.  Plus disposal of waste lead can't be cheap.  Plus brass just looks 10 times better and will take a polished finish.

[Synjin]

That's true. I'd definitely prefer a sexy looking brass over a hunk of lead.

[infiniti]

Roughly 3.5mm , so you probably want 5 mm room for safety. If there's any other dimensions you need on a Poker2 pcb let me know while it's open !

Pardon the late reply...timezones...anyway, that's all I need.  Thanks bud!

== == == == ==

If those steel inserts are just to add weight, do NOT go with steel.  It will corrode, and cause a mess.  If you want to add something for weight like that use brass.

or Lead. Its cheaper  

Depending on your source yes and no.  Plus some places won't work with it due to health and enviromental issues.  Best bet is just to stick with brass in a standard size of round stock and cut rounds and plug the holes.

Yeah, that was the reason behind keeping them round.

== == == == ==

Wood isn't aluminum

It can still be aluminum...just exploring the wood as an option.

== == == == ==

That's true. I honestly think it's a misconception because even if a person eats a solid lead metal, it won't actually cause them harm compared to ingesting the lead salts.

This may be true for the end user but I was thinking in terms of the machine shop that has to make stuff with it.  Plus disposal of waste lead can't be cheap.  Plus brass just looks 10 times better and will take a polished finish.

Polishing...that's enough reason for me to make the brass inserts removable.

== == == == ==

I'll be working on the to do list today.  Updates again later.

[infiniti]

Initial pricing isn't so good. US$195 for the wood and US$235 for the aluminum case.

Time to negotiate on quantity or simplifying the process.