Northgate Omnikey 101 SKCM White Alps

[Hypersphere]

Northgate Omnikey 101 SKCM White Alps

Thanks to exhortations from Fohat, I picked up this gem from eBay for about 60 USD shipped. It arrived expertly packed and in excellent working condition. It was also reasonably clean for an eBay purchase. Furthermore, this particular Northgate model had the standard ANSI layout with a horizontal Enter key rather than a flipped L design This great keyboard obviously has been reviewed many times before, but because I was so favorably impressed by it, I felt compelled to add my own two cents.



Although I began my mechanical keyboard journey with full-size keyboards (IBM XT and IBM Model M), shortly after seriously entering enthusiast territory my favorite form factors became TKL and 60%. After acclimating to these compact versions, I thought I would never go back to a full-size keyboard, but as soon as I typed on the Omnikey 101, I decided to clean it up and add it to my active rotation.



One of the first things I noticed about the Omnikey 101 was its substantial weight -- 4 lbs 12 oz (about 2.15 kg). It also felt extremely solid with no flex or creaking. The heft and solidity derive from a steel plate fastened with four screws and a steel back on the case held to the thick plastic top by six screws. The construction makes the Omnikey 101 feel even sturdier than an IBM Model M. Unlike the Model M, the Northgate is not held together with plastic rivets that degrade and break over time. Apparently, the Omnikey 101 was introduced in 1991, the same year that IBM turned over production of the Model M to Lexmark.

The keycaps are attractive ABS doubleshots with touches of color, such as red legends on the Esc and Ctrl keys.



Typing on the Omnikey 101 is a pleasure. The switches are SKCM white Alps, and on this board they feel extremely smooth. I find the switch weight ideal for me -- neither too heavy nor too light. Likewise, the click is audible without being overly noisy, and the tactility provides reassuring feedback without being overbearing. Indeed, I find these white Alps just about as satisfying as the blue Alps on my Leading Edge DC-2014. As others have noted, the perceived (and/or actual) quality of white Alps seems to vary quite a lot, depending upon manufacturing parameters and how clean the switches are.

On the top left of the keyboard there is a little door with the Northgate logo that hides a bank of 8 DIP switches and a red selector switch. These enable a number of features, including swapping CapsLock and Ctrl (along with Alt and Ctrl on the bottom row), switching the entire keyboard to a Dvorak layout, and changing the repeat rate.



When I started to clean the board, I was initially disappointed when it seemed that the logo was slightly damaged. It turned out that it still had the thin protective film attached. I peeled off the film revealing a pristine logo that looked like it was made just yesterday. Likewise, the label on the bottom of the board was in perfect condition.





I happen to like detachable cables, and the Omni has a DIN6 female cable connector on the back right-hand side. The supplied cable terminates with a male AT-type connector. I attached this to an active "Blue Cube" USB adapter, plugged it into the USB hub to my computer, and the keyboard was up and running. All the keys registered and the three lock lights worked. It would be quite easy to modify this board to a flush-mount USB connector either with or without a Soarer's converter. Notice also the flip-out legs to elevate the board to what I consider a comfortable typing height. Behind the feet are tabs that can be used for cable management.



Another treat came when I discovered that the keyboard worked with my Hasu USB-USB converter. I suppose I should not have been surprised by this, given that the keyboard worked with an active AT to USB converter. However, I had set up the Hasu converter to work with standard-layout TKL and 60% keyboards, and I would need to remap it slightly to account for the Winkeyless layout of the Omnikey 101. For now, to get my preferred HHKB layout, I will be using keyboard remapping software.

Overall, I highly recommend the Northgate Omnikey 101 for those who like tactile/clicky Alps switches in a full-size keyboard with a standard ANSI layout.

[losing_ctrl]

Great overview, now I want one even more. 

[fohat.digs]

Northgate is by far the best Alps keyboard, almost up to Model F levels of quality, and the 101 is the one to have.

[chyros]

Northgate is by far the best Alps keyboard, almost up to Model F levels of quality, and the 101 is the one to have.

That's right, everyone; if you have a 102 or Ultra-T with blue Alps, trade it with me for an ANSI KB-101A .

[Hypersphere]

@chyros: I expect to take delivery of a Gold Label 102 with blue Alps within the next few months. I'll let you know how I like it. Without having tried it, however, I already know that the layout will be an issue. I need either a HHKB layout or something that can easily be remapped as such. Standard ANSI lends itself to remapping HHKB style because of the 1.5x Backslash that can be remapped as Backspace, and although I would like a split Right Shift with a 1.0x key to its right to serve as Fn, I can use the Right Ctrl as Fn.

[chyros]

@chyros: I expect to take delivery of a Gold Label 102 with blue Alps within the next few months. I'll let you know how I like it. Without having tried it, however, I already know that the layout will be an issue. I need either a HHKB layout or something that can easily be remapped as such. Standard ANSI lends itself to remapping HHKB style because of the 1.5x Backslash that can be remapped as Backspace, and although I would like a split Right Shift with a 1.0x key to its right to serve as Fn, I can use the Right Ctrl as Fn.

Yeah, that's what I'm banking on, as I don't like ANSI, which everyone else loves, and I like Focus and Northgate layouts which everyone else hates, so it seems like a natural trade xD . I'd definitely be up for a trade for a gold-label 102, on one condition; the switches must be immaculate, without any cleaning, just like the ones in my Acer. I don't trust cleaning to bring (Alps) switches back to their original condition, and blue Alps are simply too amazing when virtually unused . I don't think I could go on without having some kind of keyboard with immaculate blue Alps xD .

[Hypersphere]

Here is the Omnikey 101 with Tai-Hao Dolch caps. The bottom row in the main typing area is populated with blank blacks from Matias.



This is not quite the look I was hoping for. Someone recently posted a pic of a black-case Dell 101 with Dolch caps, and that looked much better to me.

@Chyros: I will keep your proposition in mind, but if pristine blue Alps live up to their promise of mechanical bliss, I might just have to keep them around, despite the unfavorable layout.

[chyros]

Here is the Omnikey 101 with Tai-Hao Dolch caps. The bottom row in the main typing area is populated with blank blacks from Matias.

(Attachment Link)

This is not quite the look I was hoping for. Someone recently posted a pic of a black-case Dell 101 with Dolch caps, and that looked much better to me.

@Chyros: I will keep your proposition in mind, but if pristine blue Alps live up to their promise of mechanical bliss, I might just have to keep them around, despite the unfavorable layout.

I think the Northgate might look better with that Space Cadet keyset. The brown-and-black set looks better with black cases, I think. Despite that, it still looks really nice .

As for the proposition; mine are pristine as well, it'd just be a layout swap really. But have a go first, of course .

[Hypersphere]

The Dolch set on the Omnikey is growing on me, but I am not quite satisfied with it. Now I am considering taking it to the local Cerakote shop and having it coated in a matte black finish. To my eye, almost any keycap set looks better against a non-reflective dark background.

Yesterday, I installed an internal Orihalcon/Soarer converter in my Leading Edge DC-2014 with blue Alps. While doing so, I connected the converter to a 1-ft. micro-USB extension with a flush-mount micro-USB connector. This provides strain relief and enabled me to put a micro-USB connector on the rear of the case. I programmed the converter to a semblance of a HHKB layout, and everything worked. The keyboard is somewhat more usable than my IBM XT.

While I like the feel and subtle click of the blue Alps on the DC-2014, the overall sound is rather hollow and  plasticky. In contrast, the Omnikey sounds quite solid (as I would expect, considering the amount of steel used in its construction). There are always trade-offs. The full-size Omnikey is just a tad too wide. It is only about 5/8" wider than the DC-2014, but this is just enough to notice the cramp in my mouse space. Moreover, even a TKL feels too asymmetrical and burdened with redundant keys. My to-do list includes building two custom 60% boards in HHKB layout with white or blue Alps (one for the home office and the other for work).

[Hypersphere]

Update: After getting some excellent advice on vinyl dye and plastic coatings from Fohat and XMIT, I went with Dupli-Color vinyl and fabric coating to change the color of the Omnikey case. I bought both flat black and burgundy, and I decided to break from my usual black backgrounds and go with the burgundy. Here are some shots of the finished product with the Tai-Hao Dolch set along with black mods and spacebar from Matias:





Dupli-color on plastic is much easier than, say, Rustoleum on metal. When I painted my XT barrel plate with Rustoleum satin black, I did exhaustive surface preparation, then applied several coats, letting the paint set overnight, and lightly sanding between each coat.

With Dupli-color on the plastic case, I simply cleaned the case thoroughly, allowed it to dry overnight, masked the LED panel with masking tape, applied several coats waiting just a few minutes between coats, and let it dry about an hour before putting the keyboard back together. Before cleaning the case, I removed the DIP switch door with the Northgate logo and cleaned it separately. After painting, I applied a drop of SuperLube oil to the hinges and snapped the door back into place.

Fohat also kindly sent me an extra Omnikey 101 case top in the event of disaster. I painted it flat black, which looks fine, but after seeing the burgundy, I really like its more custom look and pizzazz.

I am fairly pleased with the result.

[duynguyenle]

Update: After getting some excellent advice on vinyl dye and plastic coatings from Fohat and XMIT, I went with Dupli-Color vinyl and fabric coating to change the color of the Omnikey case. I bought both flat black and burgundy, and I decided to break from my usual black backgrounds and go with the burgundy. Here are some shots of the finished product with the Tai-Hao Dolch set along with black mods and spacebar from Matias:

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

Dupli-color on plastic is much easier than, say, Rustoleum on metal. When I painted my XT barrel plate with Rustoleum satin black, I did exhaustive surface preparation, then applied several coats, letting the paint set overnight, and lightly sanding between each coat.

With Dupli-color on the plastic case, I simply cleaned the case thoroughly, allowed it to dry overnight, masked the LED panel with masking tape, applied several coats waiting just a few minutes between coats, and let it dry about an hour before putting the keyboard back together. Before cleaning the case, I removed the DIP switch door with the Northgate logo and cleaned it separately. After painting, I applied a drop of SuperLube oil to the hinges and snapped the door back into place.

Fohat also kindly sent me an extra Omnikey 101 case top in the event of disaster. I painted it flat black, which looks fine, but after seeing the burgundy, I really like its more custom look and pizzazz.

I am fairly pleased with the result.

 

[mike52787]

Here is the Omnikey 101 with Tai-Hao Dolch caps. The bottom row in the main typing area is populated with blank blacks from Matias.

(Attachment Link)

This is not quite the look I was hoping for. Someone recently posted a pic of a black-case Dell 101 with Dolch caps, and that looked much better to me.

@Chyros: I will keep your proposition in mind, but if pristine blue Alps live up to their promise of mechanical bliss, I might just have to keep them around, despite the unfavorable layout.

I think the Northgate might look better with that Space Cadet keyset. The brown-and-black set looks better with black cases, I think. Despite that, it still looks really nice .

As for the proposition; mine are pristine as well, it'd just be a layout swap really. But have a go first, of course .

They make an alps mount space cadet keyset? sign me up!

[fohat.digs]

They make an alps mount space cadet keyset? sign me up!

Dolch by Tai Ho. One of the major online stores sells it for $35 or so. But bottom row and CapsLock don't work with vintage gear.

[emdude]

The Caps Lock key at least will work with vintage keyboards that also used Tai Hao-manufactured keysets with nonstepped Caps Locks (i.e. Focus and Northgate boards).

[Magna224]

Update: After getting some excellent advice on vinyl dye and plastic coatings from Fohat and XMIT, I went with Dupli-Color vinyl and fabric coating to change the color of the Omnikey case. I bought both flat black and burgundy, and I decided to break from my usual black backgrounds and go with the burgundy. Here are some shots of the finished product with the Tai-Hao Dolch set along with black mods and spacebar from Matias:

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

Dupli-color on plastic is much easier than, say, Rustoleum on metal. When I painted my XT barrel plate with Rustoleum satin black, I did exhaustive surface preparation, then applied several coats, letting the paint set overnight, and lightly sanding between each coat.

With Dupli-color on the plastic case, I simply cleaned the case thoroughly, allowed it to dry overnight, masked the LED panel with masking tape, applied several coats waiting just a few minutes between coats, and let it dry about an hour before putting the keyboard back together. Before cleaning the case, I removed the DIP switch door with the Northgate logo and cleaned it separately. After painting, I applied a drop of SuperLube oil to the hinges and snapped the door back into place.

Fohat also kindly sent me an extra Omnikey 101 case top in the event of disaster. I painted it flat black, which looks fine, but after seeing the burgundy, I really like its more custom look and pizzazz.

I am fairly pleased with the result.

WoW! That looks awesome! Great job!

[Adgar]

Seems like an antique. From your review I think this keyboard is better for a Collector or geek. It also remind me the computer in 90s. At that time the color of the computer just like  Omnikey 101. For a company like IBM,  The benifit or return is the most important. So sometimes I don't think products will be better. Maybe worse.      For a company, if  they wanna make perfect keyboard, They must sacrifise their benifit that make them under the bad situation while competing with their rival. Northgate Computer Systems was a producer of personal computer systems which were sold via mail-order. Their keyboards were, and still are, highly regarded. So the Northgate Omnikey 101 is still good. Everything is nice except the keycap, I think ABS is not good for a game player and programmer.

[SBJ]

Update: After getting some excellent advice on vinyl dye and plastic coatings from Fohat and XMIT, I went with Dupli-Color vinyl and fabric coating to change the color of the Omnikey case. I bought both flat black and burgundy, and I decided to break from my usual black backgrounds and go with the burgundy. Here are some shots of the finished product with the Tai-Hao Dolch set along with black mods and spacebar from Matias:

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

Dupli-color on plastic is much easier than, say, Rustoleum on metal. When I painted my XT barrel plate with Rustoleum satin black, I did exhaustive surface preparation, then applied several coats, letting the paint set overnight, and lightly sanding between each coat.

With Dupli-color on the plastic case, I simply cleaned the case thoroughly, allowed it to dry overnight, masked the LED panel with masking tape, applied several coats waiting just a few minutes between coats, and let it dry about an hour before putting the keyboard back together. Before cleaning the case, I removed the DIP switch door with the Northgate logo and cleaned it separately. After painting, I applied a drop of SuperLube oil to the hinges and snapped the door back into place.

Fohat also kindly sent me an extra Omnikey 101 case top in the event of disaster. I painted it flat black, which looks fine, but after seeing the burgundy, I really like its more custom look and pizzazz.

I am fairly pleased with the result.

Very nice end result.
Now I want an Omnikey. 

[alh84001]

I've been a bit disappointed with mine when I got it. I handled some heavier keyboards at the time, so it didn't feel that sturdy, and switches were in a not so good condition.

However, working on it on and off for two weeks now, and I came to really adore it. Everything about it just subtly oozes quality. Well, everything except that case design XD. That's were an early Focus would come in handy I'm still in the middle of cleaning it up, so no more details on it for now, but I hope this time next week I'll have it fully up and running.

Your dyed cases look really wonderful, and I think I prefer the black one. I don't know if it's any different seeing them live, but from the pictures, the texture is more visible on it.

[chyros]

it didn't feel that sturdy

wat

[alh84001]

Hence, my disappointment. It has to do with my brain mistaking heaviness for sturdiness, and me handling F107 and F122 for a couple of days right before it arrived. So after all the things I heard about it, it was kind of underwhelming. Boy, was I wrong

[fohat.digs]

When it is apart and you hold that bottom pan in your hands, you cannot help but be impressed.
And the baked enamel finish is amazing, even compared to the Fs.

[chyros]

When it is apart and you hold that bottom pan in your hands, you cannot help but be impressed.
And the baked enamel finish is amazing, even compared to the Fs.

I was shocked to see it weighed a lot more than my frying pan.

My Omnikey must've been dropped from a considerable height several times, but the only that that happened was that two of the corners were slightly bent, the plastic around there broke off just a bit, and one of the switches (num lock) was busted. That's it. The build quality of these puts even the most premium modern keyboards to deep, deep shame.

[Hypersphere]

@Chyros: In case you were wondering what happened to the Omnikey 102 Gold Label with blue Alps, I cancelled my order and changed it to another Omnikey 101 with white Alps. I decided against a layout I was unlikely to use in favor of another known quantity that I really enjoy. Although I would dearly love to trade for an Acer KB-101A, I doubted that the Gold Label 102 would have been up to your standard. In the interim, I was also able to acquire a Leading Edge DC-3014 with blue Alps -- I am typing on it now, and it is a delight.

[chyros]

@Chyros: In case you were wondering what happened to the Omnikey 102 Gold Label with blue Alps, I cancelled my order and changed it to another Omnikey 101 with white Alps. I decided against a layout I was unlikely to use in favor of another known quantity that I really enjoy. Although I would dearly love to trade for an Acer KB-101A, I doubted that the Gold Label 102 would have been up to your standard. In the interim, I was also able to acquire a Leading Edge DC-3014 with blue Alps -- I am typing on it now, and it is a delight.

Thanks mate, I'm okay though .

[Hypersphere]

Orihalcon made some internal USB Soarer's converters for me for the Northgate Omnikey 101, and I installed one of them today. It works beautifully.

The converter has a header than connects to the pins on the keyboard's PCB:




There is plenty of room in the Northgate case beneath the PCB for the converter and a DataPro micro-USB panel-mount connector with cable.




http://www.datapro.net/products/usb-micro-b-panel-mount-extension-cable-m-f.html

The cable plugs into the converter and provides strain relief for the micro-USB connector on the converter.

The panel-mount connector aligns perfectly with the holes that are already drilled in the case for the original mini-DIN6 connector, so it is not necessary to drill new holes. The dimensions on the drawing below are in mm, and the connector is rotated 90 degrees for installation.




I use a micro-USB cable with a right-angle connector to connect the keyboard to a USB hub and KM switch. I've programmed the Orihalcon/Soarer Converter to give me some HHKB touches, such as swapping Backslash and Backspace, mapping Right Ctrl as Fn, and setting up a cursor diamond despite the redundant arrow keys. Moreover, the USB converter should take care of the hot-swap issues. Thus far, everything is working as expected. This was my easiest converter and panel-mount connector installation yet -- the Northgate chassis is a joy to work with.



The cleaned and lubed white Alps switches are smooth with just the right amount of crisp tactility and clickiness for me, and the Northgate build imparts a feeling of reassuring solidity. I really like this keyboard!

[opensecret]

Thanks for a great post on your Omnikey.  I've been using these boards since the early 90s, and, like you, I love the feel.  I'm typing on an Ultra now. 

[gmcenroe]

That paint job looks really cool, the red reminds me of IBM selectric red typewriter. I just bought a Ultra-T on ebay, it is supposed to be in good working order but needs a lot of cleaning. I am going to restore mine with hydrogen peroxide treatment. If it does not restore the yellow to white I may try to paint it as well. Not sure what color yet, may IBM selectric tan, or blue.