Author Topic: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)  (Read 3516788 times)

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Offline Sifo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8500 on: Wed, 18 June 2014, 21:04:59 »
TOP 1 LMFAO

Okay okay serious question:

I been working with PCB mount cherry stabs a lot, and whenever they reach my customer the bar always ****ing comes loose from the part they're supposed to clip into. Do I have a bad batch or am I retarded or what?

I believe this has happened on 3 occasions.

EDIT: Might not be so simple... but didn't want to make a thread for it
« Last Edit: Wed, 18 June 2014, 21:07:15 by Sifo »
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Offline infiniti

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8501 on: Wed, 18 June 2014, 21:58:59 »
TOP 1 LMFAO

Okay okay serious question:

I been working with PCB mount cherry stabs a lot, and whenever they reach my customer the bar always ****ing comes loose from the part they're supposed to clip into. Do I have a bad batch or am I retarded or what?

I believe this has happened on 3 occasions.

EDIT: Might not be so simple... but didn't want to make a thread for it

My PCB mount stabs kept popping out too.  Solved it by cutting up a small plastic card and wedging it in the foot to keep it spread open and locked.

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8502 on: Wed, 18 June 2014, 22:00:07 »
Okay okay serious question:

I been working with PCB mount cherry stabs a lot, and whenever they reach my customer the bar always ****ing comes loose from the part they're supposed to clip into. Do I have a bad batch or am I retarded or what?

I believe this has happened on 3 occasions.

EDIT: Might not be so simple... but didn't want to make a thread for it

You might have put the inserts in backwards? I found that they stay put on one side and tend to fall out on the other.

Offline Sifo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8503 on: Wed, 18 June 2014, 22:12:40 »
Okay okay serious question:

I been working with PCB mount cherry stabs a lot, and whenever they reach my customer the bar always ****ing comes loose from the part they're supposed to clip into. Do I have a bad batch or am I retarded or what?

I believe this has happened on 3 occasions.

EDIT: Might not be so simple... but didn't want to make a thread for it

You might have put the inserts in backwards? I found that they stay put on one side and tend to fall out on the other.


No no no guys not the black pieces, the bar keeps falling out even though I secure them both sides into the clip thing.
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Offline infiniti

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8504 on: Wed, 18 June 2014, 22:51:20 »
Even if it is snapped into the part circled in red, the bar still falls out?


Offline phoenix1234

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8505 on: Wed, 18 June 2014, 23:21:20 »
TOP 1 LMFAO
Okay okay serious question:
I been working with PCB mount cherry stabs a lot, and whenever they reach my customer the bar always ****ing comes loose from the part they're supposed to clip into. Do I have a bad batch or am I retarded or what?
I believe this has happened on 3 occasions.
EDIT: Might not be so simple... but didn't want to make a thread for it

I faced this one at least twice, especially for the ones were rusty so I need to use sand-paper to clean them. I think after I sanded them, the wire bars get smaller so they tend to loose out. So for your case, I think you need to check the diameter of the bar. It should be around 1/15-1/16 inch ~ 1.7-1.6mm
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Offline Lain1911

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8506 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 01:19:43 »
Is it unusual to have upside down switches on a stock keyboard? Example: my QFR window and alt key on the left side has the led placement on top and CHERRY is upside down. All other caps are right side up.

Offline Pacifist

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8507 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 01:23:34 »
Is it unusual to have upside down switches on a stock keyboard? Example: my QFR window and alt key on the left side has the led placement on top and CHERRY is upside down. All other caps are right side up.

nowadays some boards do that for some reason....

Offline BlueBär

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8508 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 05:50:06 »
Is it unusual to have upside down switches on a stock keyboard? Example: my QFR window and alt key on the left side has the led placement on top and CHERRY is upside down. All other caps are right side up.

Some manufacturers do this to have the LEDs towards the top, and iirc on the GH60 Rev. A this was used to make some traces easier.

Offline ideus

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8509 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 08:52:22 »
Do PCB-mounted Cherry stabilizers have the same design than plate-mounted ones?

Offline BlueBär

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8510 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 09:25:42 »
Do PCB-mounted Cherry stabilizers have the same design than plate-mounted ones?

Parts of it (slider, wire) are identical to the plate mounted ones but the base is different.

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8511 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 09:26:04 »
Do PCB-mounted Cherry stabilizers have the same design than plate-mounted ones?

No.  They can't be use in place of each other.  PCB mount will not fit through the holes in a plate meant for plate mount, and plate mount stabilizers will not clip to the board.  There is however a hole design that will allow for both plate mount cherry and Costar which is plate mount only.  Alps stabilizers are all (that I have seen) plate mount as well.  Plus, I have yet to see anything with PCB mount Alps switches but I doubt it will happen due to the design of the switch.
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Offline kakakowie

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8512 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 09:33:33 »
How do I calculate required resistor values for leds when building a keyboard?

I should have to take into account the number of leds and their voltage? Are there other factors? Is it safer just to go higher?

Offline ideus

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8513 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 09:36:54 »
Where I can get PCB mount stabilizers?

Offline BlueBär

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8514 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 09:38:32 »
Where I can get PCB mount stabilizers?

In the OP.

Offline epzy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8515 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 09:43:46 »
Where I can get PCB mount stabilizers?

Contact YUIOP. :)
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Offline ideus

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8517 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 09:44:00 »
Where I can get PCB mount stabilizers?

In the OP.

I just found this, anyone has experience with them?

Offline epzy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8518 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 09:46:54 »
Where I can get PCB mount stabilizers?

In the OP.

I just found this, anyone has experience with them?

You'll have to pay $9 + $25 shipping for those. YUIOP will sell some to you for $12 shipped CONUS.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56052.0
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Offline Puddsy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8519 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 09:50:21 »
Though I love GON, shipping from Korea is nuts

listen to epzy
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Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8520 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 09:52:30 »
1) How do I calculate required resistor values for leds when building a keyboard?

2) I should have to take into account the number of leds and their voltage? Are there other factors? Is it safer just to go higher?

1) Ohm's Law

2) Check out this thread

Offline Pacifist

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8521 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 11:25:40 »
Where can I find a list of all the badges?

Offline Puddsy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8522 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 11:28:19 »
Where can I find a list of all the badges?

Badges?

I don't follow
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Offline intelli78

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8523 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 12:39:08 »
What are the differences between Lightsaver v1 and v2?
Please consider carefully before you decide to comment, for Jesus.

Offline Pacifist

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8524 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 12:42:58 »
What are the differences between Lightsaver v1 and v2?

the case

Offline Puddsy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8525 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 12:43:31 »
What are the differences between Lightsaver v1 and v2?

the case

That's great.

What's different about the case?
QFR | MJ2 TKL | "Bulgogiboard" (Keycon 104) | ctrl.alt x GON 60% | TGR Alice | Mira SE #29 | Mira SE #34 | Revo One | z | Keycult No. 1 | AIS65 | First CW87 prototype | Mech27v1 | Camp C225 | Duck Orion V1 | LZ CLS sxh | Geon Frog TKL | Hiney TKL One | Geon Glare TKL



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Offline SpAmRaY

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8526 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 12:55:28 »
What are the differences between Lightsaver v1 and v2?

the case

That's great.

What's different about the case?

the shape  :blank:

Offline asgeirtj

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8527 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 17:04:35 »
I have SP doubleshots caps without crossbars.  This is a big problem since the crossbar on other keycaps they uniform the length from the o-ring.  For example for number row I put two 1.5 mm thick o-rings with no dampening or shortening effect and putting on the 3rd the damp kicks in but the shortening effect is huge and too much.  This is a big problem.  Anyone has a solution for this?
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Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8528 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 17:30:33 »
Where can I find a list of all the badges?

What badges are you referring to.

What are the differences between Lightsaver v1 and v2?

Think the V1 came in both acrylic and metal. V2 only came in metal and has some PCB updates and case design updates. You can check out more info:
- Duck0113's website on the Lightsavers
- Post your Lightsaver thread, seems to focus on V1
- Lightsaver V2 GB


I have SP doubleshots caps without crossbars.  This is a big problem since the crossbar on other keycaps they uniform the length from the o-ring.  For example for number row I put two 1.5 mm thick o-rings with no dampening or shortening effect and putting on the 3rd the damp kicks in but the shortening effect is huge and too much.  This is a big problem.  Anyone has a solution for this?

Could try designing some 3D printed inserts that act like crossbars and get them printed at Shapeways or try combining EK's soft-landing pads with them. You can also try and find rubber mats and punching out spacers similar the to the o2dazone HHKB mod but have them fit for MX.

Offline acalora

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8529 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 21:51:20 »
Just curious, what does everyone think about scooped F and J keys vs nubbed? I've heard only good things about scoops so far, what do you guys think?

Offline Pacifist

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8530 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 21:52:07 »
Just curious, what does everyone think about scooped F and J keys vs nubbed? I've heard only good things about scoops so far, what do you guys think?

I love scoops

Offline nubbinator

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8531 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 21:52:37 »
Just curious, what does everyone think about scooped F and J keys vs nubbed? I've heard only good things about scoops so far, what do you guys think?

Despite my name, scoops are easier to find and use for me.

Offline HoffmanMyster

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8532 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 21:56:38 »
What are the differences between Lightsaver v1 and v2?

the case

Honestly, you're better off saving the time and letting someone else answer the questions in here. 

Like this guy.

What are the differences between Lightsaver v1 and v2?

Think the V1 came in both acrylic and metal. V2 only came in metal and has some PCB updates and case design updates. You can check out more info:
- Duck0113's website on the Lightsavers
- Post your Lightsaver thread, seems to focus on V1
- Lightsaver V2 GB


Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8533 on: Thu, 19 June 2014, 22:49:44 »
Enough. You all are the prettiest princess.

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8534 on: Fri, 20 June 2014, 07:51:56 »
What sizes of stabilizer wires are the most difficult to purchase a la cart?  Assuming standard sizes of 2u, 6.25, and 7u.  Looking for answers in both cherry and costar. 
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Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8535 on: Fri, 20 June 2014, 07:57:12 »
What sizes of stabilizer wires are the most difficult to purchase a la cart?  Assuming standard sizes of 2u, 6.25, and 7u.  Looking for answers in both cherry and costar.

6.25x and 7x have been hard to find for Cherry wires. Costar 6.25x can be found on WASD, not sure about 2x and 7x. I haven't looked at buying Costar wires outside of WASD or the classifieds.

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8536 on: Fri, 20 June 2014, 08:00:08 »
What sizes of stabilizer wires are the most difficult to purchase a la cart?  Assuming standard sizes of 2u, 6.25, and 7u.  Looking for answers in both cherry and costar.

6.25x and 7x have been hard to find for Cherry wires. Costar 6.25x can be found on WASD, not sure about 2x and 7x. I haven't looked at buying Costar wires outside of WASD or the classifieds.

Thanks for the info.  I figured if I was going to make wires I should make the ones that can't be found or are difficult/ expensive to ship.  At least cherry wires are easier but tighter tolerance on bend location.
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Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8537 on: Fri, 20 June 2014, 09:56:38 »
What sizes of stabilizer wires are the most difficult to purchase a la cart?  Assuming standard sizes of 2u, 6.25, and 7u.  Looking for answers in both cherry and costar.

6.25x and 7x have been hard to find for Cherry wires. Costar 6.25x can be found on WASD, not sure about 2x and 7x. I haven't looked at buying Costar wires outside of WASD or the classifieds.

Thanks for the info.  I figured if I was going to make wires I should make the ones that can't be found or are difficult/ expensive to ship.  At least cherry wires are easier but tighter tolerance on bend location.

You're exactly right concerning the Cherry wires being easier to bend, but tighter on the tolerance of the bend location.

Cherry wires are easy to find in 2x sizes; somewhat rare at the moment, but available in 7x and 8x sizes; and almost nonexistent in 6.25x.

Costar have only ever been available for purchase in 6.25x size. All 7x Costar wires in existence have been custom bent.
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Offline swill

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8538 on: Fri, 20 June 2014, 11:26:31 »
What sizes of stabilizer wires are the most difficult to purchase a la cart?  Assuming standard sizes of 2u, 6.25, and 7u.  Looking for answers in both cherry and costar.

6.25x and 7x have been hard to find for Cherry wires. Costar 6.25x can be found on WASD, not sure about 2x and 7x. I haven't looked at buying Costar wires outside of WASD or the classifieds.

Thanks for the info.  I figured if I was going to make wires I should make the ones that can't be found or are difficult/ expensive to ship.  At least cherry wires are easier but tighter tolerance on bend location.

You're exactly right concerning the Cherry wires being easier to bend, but tighter on the tolerance of the bend location.

Cherry wires are easy to find in 2x sizes; somewhat rare at the moment, but available in 7x and 8x sizes; and almost nonexistent in 6.25x.

Costar have only ever been available for purchase in 6.25x size. All 7x Costar wires in existence have been custom bent.

I got 6.25 and 7 (as well as a bunch of 2) unit cherry wires with my 5 piece sets from Sprit. 

Offline frosty

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8539 on: Fri, 20 June 2014, 11:54:04 »
what is wet sanding? any tutorials/guides for it?
what painting method should i use if i just want to paint my keyboard to a solid colour?
painting guide that is very very detailed?
solder sucker + soldering iron to desolder 87 switches, my first project, am i being ambitious?

Offline xavierblak

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8540 on: Fri, 20 June 2014, 11:58:45 »
Just curious, what does everyone think about scooped F and J keys vs nubbed? I've heard only good things about scoops so far, what do you guys think?

You'll probably have to try them yourself. I thought I'd like scoops before I tried them but after I did I found out I preferred nubs.

Offline MythicalWagyu

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8541 on: Fri, 20 June 2014, 12:37:26 »
what is wet sanding? any tutorials/guides for it?
what painting method should i use if i just want to paint my keyboard to a solid colour?
painting guide that is very very detailed?
solder sucker + soldering iron to desolder 87 switches, my first project, am i being ambitious?
Photoelectric has got you covered for a painting guide, check this thread: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=44191
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Offline minho

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8542 on: Fri, 20 June 2014, 13:03:17 »
solder sucker + soldering iron to desolder 87 switches, my first project, am i being ambitious?

Not really - just make sure your iron isn't too hot that you burn off the solder pads, and don't heat the PCB too long or you could run into that problem (I accidentally did this :()

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8543 on: Fri, 20 June 2014, 13:05:56 »
1) what is wet sanding? any tutorials/guides for it?

2) solder sucker + soldering iron to desolder 87 switches, my first project, am i being ambitious?

1) Wet sanding is putting water on a part then sanding the part with sand paper. I'm sure YouTube has lots of videos on it but it's pretty self explanatory.

2) Not at all. That was my first project in keyboards as well. There's a lot of good information on this site, such as the living soldering thread and WhiteFireDragon's videos, as well as on YouTube.

Just curious, what does everyone think about scooped F and J keys vs nubbed? I've heard only good things about scoops so far, what do you guys think?


I prefer nubs or the little lines over scooped F and J. I find I can't locate the homerow as fast with the scoops. However, GMK/Cherry caps feel so good I just put up with scoops.

solder sucker + soldering iron to desolder 87 switches, my first project, am i being ambitious?

Not really - just make sure your iron isn't too hot that you burn off the solder pads, and don't heat the PCB too long or you could run into that problem (I accidentally did this :()

Don't worry! You're not the first or last person to pull pads or burn your PCB!

Offline Puddsy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8544 on: Fri, 20 June 2014, 13:07:31 »

Just curious, what does everyone think about scooped F and J keys vs nubbed? I've heard only good things about scoops so far, what do you guys think?

I prefer nubs or the little lines over scooped F and J. However, GMK/Cherry caps feel so good I just put up with scoops.


I agree with this

The only reason I use scoops is because I love GMK
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Offline Photekq

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8545 on: Fri, 20 June 2014, 13:08:10 »
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Offline intelli78

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8546 on: Fri, 20 June 2014, 13:22:06 »
solder sucker + soldering iron to desolder 87 switches, my first project, am i being ambitious?

Here are a few tips I wish someone had given me before my first desoldering project:

- If it's a dual sided, thick PCB, leave the tip of the iron on the joint for a full 1-2 seconds (with temp around 600f) to ensure all of the solder liquifies. This will make it suck out much easier.

- If you are having trouble with a joint, heat it and add fresh solder, then attempt to remove again. works much better.

- You will probably have many switches where you remove 95% of the solder, but one or two of the pins are still stuck to the pad by a tiny amount of solder (again, mostly with double sided PCBs). If this happens, use the hot iron tip to free the pin while you pull the switch from the other side. If you're unlucky, two pins may do this at once, and you'll have to go back and forth between them. Just don't use force, or you'll pull out the copper trace and have a bigger problem.

Of course, if anyone wants to suggest even better techniques than these, go for it.
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Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8547 on: Fri, 20 June 2014, 13:24:14 »
solder sucker + soldering iron to desolder 87 switches, my first project, am i being ambitious?
Of course, if anyone wants to suggest even better techniques than these, go for it.

I watched WFD's videos like twice before I did my project and learned what you mentioned from the videos. There's one where he does an ergo-clear mod which was extremely helpful.

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8548 on: Fri, 20 June 2014, 13:33:15 »
solder sucker + soldering iron to desolder 87 switches, my first project, am i being ambitious?

Here are a few tips I wish someone had given me before my first desoldering project:

- If it's a dual sided, thick PCB, leave the tip of the iron on the joint for a full 1-2 seconds (with temp around 600f) to ensure all of the solder liquifies. This will make it suck out much easier.

- If you are having trouble with a joint, heat it and add fresh solder, then attempt to remove again. works much better.

- You will probably have many switches where you remove 95% of the solder, but one or two of the pins are still stuck to the pad by a tiny amount of solder (again, mostly with double sided PCBs). If this happens, use the hot iron tip to free the pin while you pull the switch from the other side. If you're unlucky, two pins may do this at once, and you'll have to go back and forth between them. Just don't use force, or you'll pull out the copper trace and have a bigger problem.

Of course, if anyone wants to suggest even better techniques than these, go for it.

Those are good tips. You should post that in The Living Soldering Thread. I'm sure we have said those things there before, but a reminder is always good.
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Offline intelli78

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #8549 on: Fri, 20 June 2014, 13:39:01 »
I watched WFD's videos like twice before I did my project and learned what you mentioned from the videos. There's one where he does an ergo-clear mod which was extremely helpful.

I'll have to check those out. I got the fresh solder tip from mkawa, the others were trial-and-error whilst borking my Kingsaver PCB. No regrets though, the experience (and exp from repair job) was invaluable.

On that note, I'll add one other thing. You should expect to have some f'ups on this keyboard. It's fairly likely you will lift a pad or two or damage a trace. If that happens, the most important thing is just to NOT MAKE IT WORSE and just keep your cool. If you start getting frustrated, just set it down, come to GH for some advice, and return once you are focused again. You'll be able to repair your f'ups as long as you don't compound them by making angry soldering mistakes.

If you can't handle the idea of having some bubus on this keyboard, you better find another one to practice with first.

Those are good tips. You should post that in The Living Soldering Thread. I'm sure we have said those things there before, but a reminder is always good.

Roger that, will do it now
« Last Edit: Fri, 20 June 2014, 13:41:01 by intelli78 »
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