Can we please get a 2TU style case? Aluminum-Acrylic-Aluminum sandwich case?Sure, but bear in mind that in order to get it as neat and tidy as the 2TU it would need to be machined and not laser cut.
Generally I am interested in all case projects, as I know that 80% of them will die before getting finished. For GH60 I think there are already a few projects in the pipeline.....but as mentioned....that doesnt mean anything. :DThey die just because there isn't enough people interested in. The GH60 PCB is selling good as far as I know and one open source case like this one will help all those guys without a case (or without money to pay for a US$150 case).
For me personally it would be important to have an HHKB layout as I would like to make an ISO-HHKB. \o/
Do you think counterboring the holes would add a lot to the cost? That way the screwheads arent sticking up out of the case.Problem with machining the top plate is that the switch holes have to have internal radii. May have to come up with a new design of switch hole to allow it to be machined and to allow switch tops to be removed.
What does counterboring the screw holes have to do with the switch holes?In order to have counterbored screw holes you would need to machine the pieces not laser cut them (unless you were to glue two laser cut pieces together). What I'm saying is that with laser cutting you don't need to have radii on internal corners, whereas with machining you do. I'm unsure whether these interal radii would stop the switch holes from functioning properly.
Gotcha. I got confused since I asked about the 2TU layout before and was still under the impression that your posted case was going to be machined.The one I posted is designed to be laser cut. Working on two cases for machining right now :D
Looks very nice, Photekq. All you need is a cutout on the middle layer for the USB connector.Will be adding the USB hole once the PCB is finalised. You could add countersink holes but not counterbore holes (at least not big enough to accomodate a full screw head) like cpt suggested.
CPTBadAss, I think you could just drill some countersinks after laser cutting. Use a drill press, or even a hand drill.
id be in
CPTBadAss, I think you could just drill some countersinks after laser cutting. Use a drill press, or even a hand drill.
Use flat head machine screws that go all the way through the case (just barely), and use nuts on the bottom. The top side will be flush, and you'll never see the nuts on the bottom.Yep. This is the tidiest thing you can do with a fully lasercut case.
I don't like seeing bolts from the top either. Possible to make layer 4 that will go on the top similar to the mid section, and have drilled (not all the way through obviously) and tapped so the bolts go through from the bottom and thread into the top border? Hell tap every layer for that matter so it is held together well.You'll see that soon. I'm making a few designs. The one posted earlier is the cheapest and is meant for laser cutting. Will be posting 2 pretty soon that are meant for machining. One is how you described.
I changed the top layer to my HHKB layout. Added some screw holes. And made the cutout for the USB in the middle layer. :DNice :D I have added some more screwholes to the design.. The pictures I posted earlier were from a long time ago. I'll update the files shortly.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/24Trfkw.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QBO4cY4.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jCDM69C.png)
Nice. I keep seeing lots of nice concepts for cases, but too few seem to be interested in working with cheaper materials. Hoping to see some solutions in the under $75 tier that are actual cases.That's the idea!
Pictures here : http://imgur.com/a/fOSweWhat about Github?
Files here : https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5wnpv17iftjqbp8/JR_rWjfHpo
All case files will be put in this folder in the future : https://www.dropbox.com/sh/486yq39dyllmvya/Qn5BGenjp0
I've never used it. I'll give it a try later on.Pictures here : http://imgur.com/a/fOSweWhat about Github?
Files here : https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5wnpv17iftjqbp8/JR_rWjfHpo
All case files will be put in this folder in the future : https://www.dropbox.com/sh/486yq39dyllmvya/Qn5BGenjp0
I do love it's sharing and versioning features ...
Nice. I keep seeing lots of nice concepts for cases, but too few seem to be interested in working with cheaper materials. Hoping to see some solutions in the under $75 tier that are actual cases.That's the idea!
JDCarpe mentioned something like US$ 35,00 ...
Not sure if it's possible tought
Second case : 'Simple Machined' Basically the same as the laser cut one but with countersunk/threaded holes. Tidier but most likely more expensive.
http://i.imgur.com/Y1fq80V.png
I like it a lot, would be interested depending what tops and materials are used. Can never have too many cases.Like the title says it's open source. Once the designs are actually done you can take the files to any laser cutter/machine shop and have them make the components from any material you want.
the cutout for the usb connector is missing :)I haven't added USB holes to any of the designs since the GH60 PCB hasn't been finalised. Once it is I will add the holes and make sure the PCB fits.
(or is this the leek for the wireless add on 0.o)
Love the screws on the bottom, makes it one of the cleanest/minimalist cases out there.
This is going to be the fourth 'Complex machined' design.
Definitively second the comment! Very spiffy work!
Personally, I think I'd go with a fourth layer, as I like cases with some shrouding for the key stems. Perhaps making this top layer the one with the blind-threaded inserts, just a simple rectangle the same size as the middle layer, maybe 2mm in thickness.
Lots of possibilities with your design! ;D
ooh, I want to get the middle layer made out of acrylic, then I can put LEDs on the underside of the PCB and have it glow out the sides... yessss... that is what I want...I usually hate acrylic but that sounds awesome..
ooh, I want to get the middle layer made out of acrylic, then I can put LEDs on the underside of the PCB and have it glow out the sides... yessss... that is what I want...
You could have several middle layers done in different colored acrylic. Then use white LEDs, and you don't have to desolder to change the light color. :DThis is one bonus of a layered case. You can split the middle layer into multiple layers if you wish and you can make it as thick as you want.
Photekq, what size machine screws did you design those holes for?M3 - length is dependant on the thicknesses.
Photekq, what size machine screws did you design those holes for?M3 - length is dependant on the thicknesses.
This project is awesome and the case designs are wonderful and I would definitely buy a couple of these. Assuming you'll be machining in a GB.I personally won't be doing one, but if anyone else wishes to run one that's fine with me. Of course there is still some work that needs to be done but it shouldn't be too long of a wait until they're ready.
I'll, think on me like a beta tester ...This project is awesome and the case designs are wonderful and I would definitely buy a couple of these. Assuming you'll be machining in a GB.I personally won't be doing one, but if anyone else wishes to run one that's fine with me. Of course there is still some work that needs to be done but it shouldn't be too long of a wait until they're ready.
I'll, think on me like a beta tester ...Sounds good!
Make your magic and I'll help whenever I can.
:)
Case 3 - "Semi-Complex Machined"
I really like this one. As you can see there are standoffs on the top plate with screwholes in them. These are here because I wasn't happy having a threaded 1.5mm layer.. It just didn't seem secure enough to me.
As you can see it fits nicely into the middle layer and the bottom layer has countersunk holes. Overall I think this has a really tidy appearance since no screws are visible and I think it's worth the extra machining costs.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UhCXizf.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8Yrg5wy.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Kq9eFWw.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HSwzugK.png)
And a cross section of the screws :Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TnI4w2r.png)
Do you mean 1.5/1/1.5 or do you mean 1.5/no switch hole/1.5? Either way it can be done.
I would be interested in one of this with winkeyless. Kthnx.
for 100% 60% love.??
He 100% loves 60% keyboards :))for 100% 60% love.??
I'm kinda lost here, gosh!!!
humpfHe 100% loves 60% keyboards :))for 100% 60% love.??
I'm kinda lost here, gosh!!!
Wow this is shaping up fast. Giving me ideas...You know me man. I work fast :)). Nice to see stuff happening with Sigma btw.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wXy7erD.png)
It's been done for a long time. Can't bring myself to get a case straightened out >.<You know I like your projects. Let me know if I can help.
It's been done for a long time. Can't bring myself to get a case straightened out >.<
Case 3 - "Semi-Complex Machined"
I really like this one. As you can see there are standoffs on the top plate with screwholes in them. These are here because I wasn't happy having a threaded 1.5mm layer.. It just didn't seem secure enough to me.
As you can see it fits nicely into the middle layer and the bottom layer has countersunk holes. Overall I think this has a really tidy appearance since no screws are visible and I think it's worth the extra machining costs.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UhCXizf.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8Yrg5wy.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Kq9eFWw.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HSwzugK.png)
And a cross section of the screws :Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TnI4w2r.png)
Case 3 - "Semi-Complex Machined"
I really like this one. As you can see there are standoffs on the top plate with screwholes in them. These are here because I wasn't happy having a threaded 1.5mm layer.. It just didn't seem secure enough to me.
As you can see it fits nicely into the middle layer and the bottom layer has countersunk holes. Overall I think this has a really tidy appearance since no screws are visible and I think it's worth the extra machining costs.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UhCXizf.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8Yrg5wy.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Kq9eFWw.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HSwzugK.png)
And a cross section of the screws :Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TnI4w2r.png)
also, thank you for making this open source.Please thank agodinhost for this. He was the person who suggested it to me. This thread wouldn't be here if it weren't for him.
I really like this. A cheaper alternative could be to use dense wood for the middle layer and glue standoffs to the top plate instead of machining the threads. I might have to experiment with that.Experimentation is exactly what we wanted to encourage by doing this. Please update us if you do this!
Case 3 - "Semi-Complex Machined"
I really like this one. As you can see there are standoffs on the top plate with screwholes in them. These are here because I wasn't happy having a threaded 1.5mm layer.. It just didn't seem secure enough to me.
As you can see it fits nicely into the middle layer and the bottom layer has countersunk holes. Overall I think this has a really tidy appearance since no screws are visible and I think it's worth the extra machining costs.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UhCXizf.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8Yrg5wy.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Kq9eFWw.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HSwzugK.png)
And a cross section of the screws :Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TnI4w2r.png)
Looks like a **** ton of machining, ie expensiveIt's the top plate that's the problem and it may be best to have it laser cut and attach standoffs after similar to what raccoon suggested. The base and middle are simple and don't require much machining.
The top plate hole looks like it was was copy/paste from the first Phantom revision file I sent you. You don't need the inner spacebar cutout, that's for Leopold spacebar and wouldn't make sense for this plate. Second, my first revision didn't account for plate thickness made in the US (0.0625"), so costar stabs might have problems. You need to change those as well.The plate was most likely from a Phantom file since when I first made the layered design I didn't have access to any GH60 files. It's purely to give an idea of how it would look.
When gluing, do you glue it with excess on the sides so that it is cut off during production?
I'm having this done with acrylic and alu. Very inexpensive. Very easy to produce. If you want it open you could simply remove the top layer.
(Attachment Link)
I'm having this done with acrylic and alu. Very inexpensive. Very easy to produce. If you want it open you could simply remove the top layer.
(Attachment Link)
So you have to mount the switches, then solder the PCB, then screw the case together.... I guess you are committed to this case for good once you solder the PCB in there. Not unlike other acrylic designs, though.
Nice work! :)
I'm having this done with acrylic and alu. Very inexpensive. Very easy to produce. If you want it open you could simply remove the top layer.Nice!
(Attachment Link)
Nice!
Can we compare it's dimensions with the one that Photekq designed?
I think we could make some sort of standard for 60% cases acrylic cases (at least the internal dimensions and hole positions).
It would help anyone designing PCBs (like me).
Could you share your files Matt3o?
:D
That is pretty much like what I was thinking matt3o, but I would want the mid layer to be one 9mm piece instead of 3x 3mm for a cleaner look. While not an expert, I think it may be enough to drill into the top 2mm and tap that instead of having to glue in standoff. If it doesn't hold well I guess could make the top 4mm and drill in 3mm or whatever.
I really like this. A cheaper alternative could be to use dense wood for the middle layer and glue standoffs to the top plate instead of machining the threads. I might have to experiment with that.
Regarding threading acrylics... well I failed miserably, but I'm such a noob :)It's not soo easy as it seems, you can't just force the screws in like we do with wood or plastic - it will definitely break the acrylic.
I noticed there is a hole for the insert in the top layer. How are you going to make this hole since it's laser cut? Drill it afterwards?
It's not soo easy as it seems, you can't just force the screws in like we do with wood or plastic - it will definitely break the acrylic.
I've used epoxy and sometimes superglue into the holes but I don't like it at all.
Oh right.. I had no idea you could do that.I noticed there is a hole for the insert in the top layer. How are you going to make this hole since it's laser cut? Drill it afterwards?
it is etched (quite a bit)
Oh right.. I had no idea you could do that.
I have no machinests near me; i wonder if i could get it 3D printed?I think so, you will need the .stl files for it. To be honest I did thought about that too.
True, you need to use care when tapping acrylic, but if you keep enough material surrounding the hole and use small appropriate size bolt, it is not so likely to fracture. Like I have made some bolted together acrylic 3mm parts with m3 bolt mix steel acrylic for custom PC case stuff and it was ok. Clear mid section would be fine in my eyes, you can always paint on the inside and it looks good. Or drill into inside of mid frame, and place led and the whole thing will light which is also good look.
Matt3o's design is incredible!It would need standoffs. The GB plates are very close to the size of the PCB so they cannot really be sandwiched.
noob questions incoming...
After the GH60 group buy a lot of people are going to be receiving assembled keyboards with no cases only to figure out that they are stuck with a tray style case unless they desolder all the switches and use a different plate.
Would it be possible to create a layered case like Matt3o's that the plates from the gh60 group buy get sandwiched inside of?
I'm trying to have an acrylic plate 2mm thick (instead of 1.5 for better stability) etched in the position of switch clips to have them slot in. This way you get a 100% acrylic case and you wouldn't need an aluminum plate.Any news about your 2mm plate Matt3o?
I haven't forgotten about this btw. I've got the newest measurements for the GH60 so will try and update the files soon. I've just been a bit lazy since I'm on my summer holidays..Awesome man!
Just the thing I've been looking for for my 2 PCBs. Stupid Question but will the design allow us to use the plates from the GH60 GB or to go plateless?
Any updates? Just curiousYeah. To put it simply ;
I'll maybe come up with a few more designs too.More?
Matt3o's design is incredible!It would need standoffs. The GB plates are very close to the size of the PCB so they cannot really be sandwiched.
noob questions incoming...
After the GH60 group buy a lot of people are going to be receiving assembled keyboards with no cases only to figure out that they are stuck with a tray style case unless they desolder all the switches and use a different plate.
Would it be possible to create a layered case like Matt3o's that the plates from the gh60 group buy get sandwiched inside of?
Design | PCB | Plate |
GH60 | Done | Done |
Poker | Done | N/A |
Poker 2 | Done | Pending |
Pure | Done | N/A |
Pure Pro | Done | Pending |
Why none want's to make a full size case? :(
Why none want's to make a full size case? :(
How do you screw them? The rivets don't seem to have anything to use a screwdriver on.
Interested in those moz.. Problem with getting a truely tidy, cheap case is getting threaded holes somewhere. So.. those go in by pressure? You could literally attach them to a solid piece of acrylic? How about alu/steel? Are there alternatives for those materials that you're aware of?
I don't have time to read through, would these cases have an integrated plate as the middle layer?
i'll see if i have any cash leftover from tek-80. if so i'll get some along with some scrap acrylic. reckon you could have a hex nut acrylic piece laser cut?I don't have time to read through, would these cases have an integrated plate as the middle layer?
Yes.
If someone could order those rivet nuts and grub screws or get them locally, and test, it would be awesome. Also flanged hex nuts
I don't have time to read through, would these cases have an integrated plate as the middle layer?
Yes.
If someone could order those rivet nuts and grub screws or get them locally, and test, it would be awesome. Also flanged hex nuts
-- Snip --
i'll see if i have any cash leftover from tek-80. if so i'll get some along with some scrap acrylic. reckon you could have a hex nut acrylic piece laser cut?I can do the hex nut just have to find some flanged hex nuts, plain old hex nut won't do.
Whats a realistic time frame for this GB to happen? The GH60 GB just sold a ton and is in production. Those guys will want cases soon, I imagine.This isn't a GB. This is a thread where a few people are throwing some case ideas around, the files will be released OS.. then it's up to everyone else if they want to run a GB or if people just want to get one made for themselves.
I would like to see something like the duck poker or FMJ case that is printable via shapeways at a reasonable price.Well.. I could replicate the duck poker quite closely in about 15 minutes, but I'm not sure I'd feel too happy doing that :/
maybe a pipe dream :(
Very nice!
So the total thickness of the case (with optional top layer) would be 18mm? 0.71 of an inch? Not counting feet, of course.
Hahha. I figured the Keepers of Faith have better things to do./
I think this will be it from me for the next week, as I have exams and I won't be able to give as much time, if any at all.
How much would this cost to be produced?
How much would this cost to be produced?
No idea currently, but ballpark figure around $30 maybe, I can't be too sure.
How much would this cost to be produced?
No idea currently, but ballpark figure around $30 maybe, I can't be too sure.
Shoot, if you can do this for $30 (in mass/group buy I assume?) I'm very much in. That's $36 shipped to most places.
Again, my figure was ballpark, not sure how much it would be if I got one made or 100 made.
The figure was based purely on the cost of acrylic and estimated time on the machine and the hourly rate.
The thread title does say open source, no? Thus it is open source. However I am looking to make it compatible with Poker, Poker 2 and Pure as well.Yes, my thread does say it mona!
The CAD files are available, if you have access to a laser cutter, you can get it cut, otherwise, I could arrange that for you.
However, hold on until we know the exact dimensions as PCB is yet to be finalised.
The CAD files are available, if you have access to a laser cutter, you can get it cut, otherwise, I could arrange that for you.
However, hold on until we know the exact dimensions as PCB is yet to be finalised.
I can get you exact measurements for the Pure if needed. :thumb: Super interested in this.
Also, Moz, can you pm or email me the cad files? Thanks.
The CAD files are available, if you have access to a laser cutter, you can get it cut, otherwise, I could arrange that for you.
However, hold on until we know the exact dimensions as PCB is yet to be finalised.
I can get you exact measurements for the Pure if needed. :thumb: Super interested in this.
Also, Moz, can you pm or email me the cad files? Thanks.
That would be awesome!
Here is the CAD file: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=44382.msg1034343#msg1034343
I am yet to finalise it (Make plate cutout smaller, make USB cutout smaller)
The CAD files are available, if you have access to a laser cutter, you can get it cut, otherwise, I could arrange that for you.Yes, I'm waiting one Komar's prototype too.
However, hold on until we know the exact dimensions as PCB is yet to be finalised.
Redid the design from scratch to better match dimensions, and have a perfect fit with the Poker/Pure PCB. Also used 8 degrees as the tilting angle so different number of feets. And made corrections as mentioned above.Just measured my Poker II's plate.
Just a coupe of minor adjustments needed to add complete support for Poker/Pure.
Can someone with Poker II/Pure Pro help with the plate dimensions on those? Please.
I need more stuff if possible, some photos would be good.I'll try to get some pictures soon.
This post is relevant here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48007.msg1068449#msg1068449
I got one case cut for Badwrench, let's see how it fits the Pure.
Looks right, although if you can wait, I have a guinea pig who should get their case in a week, so I can make any necessary changes.
I would recommend you wait.
There will be one for cases soon too ;)MOZ... please.. I've already spent too much money on keyboards this month. :eek:
Is this GH coming up for this case? Or another one?
Do you have more pictures of the green acrylic? I am very interested in it and would like to see it if possible!
That looks really good. Are those 2mm sheets?
Do you have more pictures of the green acrylic? I am very interested in it and would like to see it if possible!
Sure, just took this for you:
(Attachment Link)
Very much, acrylic can be drilled very easily, just got to know how.
Use the bits used for wood, apply moderate pressure, not too fast and not too slow.
Very much, acrylic can be drilled very easily, just got to know how.
Use the bits used for wood, apply moderate pressure, not too fast and not too slow.
He should tape both sides too and drill through the tape, no?
I think that would be the because kdash used an older revision, once I get some time, I will upload the latest revision.Yes, MOZ.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=50292.0;attach=41718;image)