- protective stuff (glove, mask, goggles, etc)
- a small container (about 3x3x3 inches should be fine, i'm using my ipod nano's plastic box it came in)
- 2x paper cups
- A metal spetula (make sure never use this for icing cakes ever again)
- Clay or green stuff
- The keycap of your choice, if you do this right, it should not get damaged.
- Vaseline
- stirring rod and toothpicks
This is where I got the molding supplies: [URL=http://www.alumilite.com/products.cfm]here[/URL]- Find a leveled table, it will make your life sooo much easier.
- Good lighting is important.
- Coat the 1st half well with vaseline, or it WILL get stuck to the other half when you pour it in.
- When casting the resin, take a toothpick, and pre-fill the whole where the stem goes, make sure you remove all the bubbles! this is important if you want a good fit.
- After the 1 hour cure time for the resin, put it in the oven @ 150F for 30-45 min, this will help harden the thin sections. Let the mold sit, and do not disassemble it until it is 100% cooled, or you may warp the cap
- take pictures if you try this! I want to see you guys do it :D
- Don't rush
- Don't poke at the mold after the plastic is in -__- you will get some odd looking caps, trust me...
- Don't forget to wear gloves!!! Part of my thumb is peeling know because some of the catalyst got on it during my first attempt (without glvoes)thanks whiskerbox, this is my first time doing casting stuff... so excuse the ugliness of my first (possibly the first few)
Very cool!
Seeing this made me wonder something, though... couldn't one theoretically use one of those 3D printers that's been so popular lately (MakerBot is one I think) to print their own keycaps? There's even a dual-material version of the Makerbot in development, which could allow for doubleshot-ish key creation.
You probably can, but I'm not sure how fine they can print certain parts. I've seen what the one in the Robotics club in my department can do. It does not seem like it can print thin enough for something like the stem of the keycap. Also it requires a ton of cleaning up after it prints. If you guys want to really know, I can go ask them (I think I know a guy who's in the club).
On the topic of resin keys.
I would personally make things like clickclacks. But not possible at the moment. I'm living abroad, lots of Uni stuff. But once I go for my MSc I'd be looking forward to doing this.
Forget decal... how about little molded symbols :) DIY doubleshots?
Wait, what? Double shot back-lightable ?
Ok, here's the question:
If you have the awesome key cap you just made, and the original key cap that was for the mold, how are they different, other than color? Feel, finish, weight, sound, etc. I'm trying to imagine what your finish product is like. I guess I'm asking if your eyes were closed, and you were typing on the two different keys, what difference would there be? In your opinion, is it nicer, not as nice, virtually the same? Looking for your impressions.
I just looked at the cost of resin + mould stuff. 30 GBP. It's a bit expensive to start here. = / I wont be here long so I prob won't use up all the materials. Damn, I'm so tempted to do what you're doing >< I'm so jelly.
Thanks for posting this, and the good pics. I'll follow and will probably make a Kinesis Contoured set as part of the ongoing modding process. Key sets from Kinesis cost about $45 and are black or white with legends. This offers more options as well as perhaps an improved key feel. I'm curious if an O-ring mod is still workable with your key caps?
Also have you thought of using a syringe to inject different colors into the cap?
How hard was it to get the stuff off of the original key you used to make the mold? Thinking about making a mold of a certain key but I don't want to ruin it.
Also have you thought of using a syringe to inject different colors into the cap?
it came off real easy, does leave this greasy residue taht can easily be washed off with mild soap. The silicone i was using doesn't stick to anything but itself (as advertised, and its true!)
I have tried syringe with limited luck (im a pharmacy student so i got unlimited supplies of needles from my workplace :D) but the resin sets too quickly for any real detailed work to be that easily done
I'm drooling right now!! i can totally see myself putting that key on the letter X..... and we all know what the letter X does to banelings lol ^____^
can't wait to see the end result.. i wouldn't mind buying atleast 3 from you hehe (depending on end result of course)
Hmmmm....I was thinking of making a boobie key for The Ripster, but maybe that's too simple?
use those keys with a nipple/dot in the middle :P
clear resin came in, I've also got the red dye, so doing a transparent red for round one of testing, will do a clear one after.
clear resin sets much slower (its still flows after 1hour), should be easier to work the bubbles out :)
the current material is polyurethane resin, not sure if that's "better" than ABS or PBT, the manufacturer claimed it's "thermal plastic" -___- whatever that is suppose to mean, polyurethane at least tells me its an organic polymer formed from a chain of urethanes (or carbamate) which is much more informative, but i'm still totally clueless as to what urethane is anyways.
Anyone knows if there is another cast-able type of plastic resin that's commercially available?
transparent resin coming in next week, should be fun ;D
IMPORTANT CONSIDERATION!!
Have you popped the key caps onto the switches yet? How do they fit? Tight...loose....just right??
I swapped some keycaps and they are so loose they fall off......
Whoever asked about 3D printers. I've spoken to some people of the robotics society at my Uni. They said it can print to as fine as 1mm thick which I think would mean it can print a whole keycap.
They told me to go along to one of their sessions and talk with someone who knew a bit more about the printer. I might tag along and see if I can get them to print a keycap for me ; p.
With 3D printers unless you're going very high end printer wise you are not going to get a "smooth" enough result, or at least to my level of pickiness. Even a current gen Mendel RepRap is not going to cut it.
nice! are you going to attempt this too?
Question:
Would getting an Alumilite kit less expensive, or easier, or better? Any of these, all of these? I'm probably asking mostly from a trial and error method as opposed to what "We at Geekhack" will ultimately decide as the best way.
For instance, in 5 months after we all have done it and beat each other to death in the usual GH fashion, will the consensus be to go buy an Alumilite kit? Or rather, well, if you're starting out and you don't know if you will want to follow through, just get an Alumilite kit.
Does that make sense?
issue with using the clear, I decided to fill up part of the key when I make the cast, its a bit sloppy.. I'm prob going to have to make a new mold for the clear ones, otherwise its going to be grainy looking through the top
yea its the underside, I'm not exactly sure how I should go about fixing it...
lol i should start cranking them out now, the clear resin can be demold-ed after 24 hours, but will takes 72 hours to hard cure (3 days)Dibs on some prototype ;D
Dibs on some prototype ;D
Show topre some love too ;<
You might do well to try this. Instead of filling up those four little rectangles with green stuff or modeling clay, try filling it up with a small batch of silicone rubber to just above the edge of those dividers. This way, I think it will be easier to get the surface more uniform with some natural fillets where the surface of the silicone meets the sides of the cap. To make this look its best the uncured rubber would need to be pretty low in viscosity (so that you can pour or inject a small amount into each compartment neatly) and you would need to be really careful not to get any excess silicone on the sides of the inside of the cap while doing this so that you can get a clean filling. Then when you make the actual second half of your mold, use a liberal amount of vaseline on the already cured silicone inside the cap to prevent the separate pieces of silicone from binding.
I would try this with my silicone, but it is much too viscous at 43,000 mPa-s. Alumilite's HS2 rubber is apparently 18,000 mPa-s and that sounds a lot more user friendly. I'll probably be ordering some of that along with their resins soon.
I had red before I fell in love with ergo clears, the crunchiness makes my dayClears breaks my fingers ;<
I guess this might be hard to answer but about how much (in oz.) did it take to cast a key cap? I have been reading up (watching youtube) on how to cast, but I guess I am just trying to decide if the 16oz. Clear kit they have on the alumilte site will be enough to cast the top part of a Filco case. I am not trying to be a cheapskate or anything they just have that kit up at the store and with a coupon I could get it for $12.00, otherwise I will have to order it online and wait.
I think it's more than enough, but it doesn't hurt to buy extra. I'd be more worried about how much silicone you'd have to buy to get a decent mold made. The thickness of the mold at the edges should be thick enough so the cavity doesn't flex any when its filled with resin.
Oh I forgot to answer your other question. I'm only making one cap at once right now, so I have no exact measurement, but I guess 1 oz of resin could make 3-4 for sure, maybe even 5-6 caps.
nice job! it looks like you got the underside to be cleaner than my attempts, how did you do it?
Do you think the you can try using ABS ? I found this forum regarding liquid ABS plastic (http://www.therpf.com/f9/liquid-abs-plastic-24522/) [...]The lenghtiest post in that thread happens to be mine ...
The lenghtiest post in that thread happens to be mine ...
It is about a techniqe of dissolving ABS in solvent (acetone, acetaldehyde is similar) to get a putty that sets hard when the solvent has evaporated.
It is great for filling holes and gaps in plastic armour (think Stormtrooper from Star Wars), made from ABS, but not for much else.
The problem is that the solvent does not evaporate evenly. You get shrinkage, bubbles, warping, etc. The result is often softer than the original plastic.
Completely waste them, unless theyre landmines.
[video=youtube;X8VSOlKiafk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8VSOlKiafk[/video]
Be careful though. He has every right to ask whatever he wants, and sell for whatever he wants. Someone may or may not buy it at those prices. People spend way too much on things every day. But after a few tries, if he wants it to sell, the price will start coming down. He saw several selling for $1,000-$1,500 and so far people are trying to get it for less. That's the auction game. We know it's worth less than $100 to us, but to someone else it may be worth $300. Obviously it's not worth the $1,500 he's throwing out there :) but who knows?
His lack of answering emails with good honest questions, and the silly counter-offers is a bit maddening, I admit. Not the trait of a person I would choose to deal with.
lmao! funny vid.
It really depends tho.. X can be handy if you have a few of them run into a mineral line and Xplode them at the right time.. banelings tend to behave weirdly if you just A move them in mineral lines..
Welcome to the free market. = D
yea its the underside, I'm not exactly sure how I should go about fixing it...
Place a flat piece of plastic on the inside of one of your keycaps and then make a new mold? or use your craft knife to cut the mold flat?
I dont think we should clone the clack factory.. as an artist I'm against copying another's work
Yes, please, keep your excuses and justifications coming.
Hum, call me crazy, but, could you cast, ahum, a Filco case? That could really help our Phantom custom keyboard project.
I really don't see how this would hurt the game studio one bit. If anything, it would spread awareness of where the original game came from. The copy of the game would not be for sale or trade. I originally said I would trade some copies of the game in exchange for letting me borrow the original game and I now realize this would be using the game copies as a form of barter which would go against my ethics. Instead, I suggest paying straight cash to borrow the original game.
If I owned an orginal copy of the game myself, there would be no question about whether or not I would be ethically right to do whatever I want with it, so long as I did not profit off of it. So what if I owned a copy of the game and I decided to make some extra copies to deck other computers out. Would you look at the other computers running a copy of this game and say I'm a thief?
These copies aren't even really copies because that would imply they have the same material and construction. These copies would merely be bits exist on other DVD-Rs. Software pirates do this all the time don't they? Is it unethical to make a copy of some games? I already have the original game and I want to make more copies made out of DVD-Rs instead of stamped, original DVDs. By your logic, I should pay full price for the original game instead of putting in my own time and effort into "cloning" my own copy of the game.
What if you heard a Lady Gaga song on Spotify and you wanted to have a copy of it to play it in your living room. Would it be unethical to download the Lady Gaga song from bit torrent (assuming people can download it from bit torrent) and then put it on your iPod. It would obviously be unethical to sell the song, but to keep a copy of the song for yourself? Is there really an issue of ethics here?
Making a copy of a plain keycap is one thing. Making a copy of a detailed, sculpted, limited quantity keycap that you don't have is different. I don't necessarily want bra-a-aliens to stop. But I have a bit of a problem of his self-righteousness.
Let's change the context from keycaps to PC games and music. This is how the same justification would read:
The distinction between a piece of art and a tool is completely subjective. Both originate from an artist/entrepreneur, so the same ethical issues apply.
That being said, I have changed the way I think about this - thanks to all of your helpful responses. It would not have been right for me to borrow a plain keycap to make my own knockoffs to use while I did not actually retain ownership of an original (just like copied digital media). Likewise it would not have been right to borrow an artistic keycap and do the same. If I had ownership of the keycap, then I can do whatever I please as long as it did not involve me distributing (giving or selling) knockoffs.
So I guess I'm in the market for a Click Clack now, because I really want to make some replicas!
Just for fun, what do you think of this following hypothetical situation. I'm uncertain how I feel about this myself, so I think it would be interesting to see what you all think.If it were me and I owned one original and made replicas for myself, then decided to sell the original. I would then destroy the replicas out of respect for Clickclack. Does it seem like a waste, well no because I used them how I originally intended and got full enjoyment out of them. Am I sad for the loss, well partially but I knew when I decided to sell the original that I was not going to keep the replicas. In the same way I would make backups of a CD/DVD but if I were to sell the original then holding on to the copies would basically be the same as downloading it online and burning it.
What If I owned a click clack and several replicas I've made for my own personal use and then sometime in the future I sold the click clack? Should I be morally obligated to destroy the replicas? Or should I just keep and continue using them? Or keep them and not use them?
Just for fun, what do you think of this following hypothetical situation. I'm uncertain how I feel about this myself, so I think it would be interesting to see what you all think.
What If I owned a click clack and several replicas I've made for my own personal use and then sometime in the future I sold the click clack? Should I be morally obligated to destroy the replicas? Or should I just keep and continue using them? Or keep them and not use them?
Between this and the SC2 thread we need an ethics subforum.right this topic is out of scope in this thread
Back to custom casting key caps!
EDIT--- But anytime we are ultimately discussing something that concerns a "geekhacker" I think being off topic or out of scope goes out the window. For the sake of continuity and because it's always THE RIGHT THING TO DO.
Lets create another thread and continue this topic there.
I'm not worried about the 2mm wall really. The section i'm more worried about is the stem where the material is thinnest. I try to take a lot of care when filling that section in my mold and I still don't get perfect looking stems. Glass would be even more difficult. I can't imagine just how hot it would need to be to flow like resin. I'm really interested in making some abs/pbt caps now though. If I could easily dye those while they're molten, oh boy, that would be a lot of fun to work with. I'm thinking if glass is even considered, some kind of steel would need to be used for the mold instead of aluminum for the higher melting point. Maybe even ceramic but I fear that would be too brittle for the stem portion - it could just break off after a few casts.
Forget glass, pbt, abs and resins.
The future of key caps is chocolate.
Wise words.Are you saying to melt down a keycap and turn it into a new keycap or are you saying to make a mold from a brand new keycap? Because it is the material that mainly determines if it will become shiny or not. If you make a keycap out of ABS in the filco shape you will get shiny keycap eventually, if you make a mold of a filco keycap and then rough it up a little to add texture then use a material like pbt I doubt it will become shiny.
I'm curious to hear if you make a key cap from a brand new original key cap, if it will get shiny like ABS.
FYI, I think Clack copies for any purpose are a ****ty idea.
ClickClack has invested lots of time and money into making these, and he's yet to see ANY profit. If you want 10 Clacks, cough up the dough so he can make FUTURE caps.
Don't be a douche! Support ClickClack!
Are you saying to melt down a keycap and turn it into a new keycap or are you saying to make a mold from a brand new keycap? Because it is the material that mainly determines if it will become shiny or not. If you make a keycap out of ABS in the filco shape you will get shiny keycap eventually, if you make a mold of a filco keycap and then rough it up a little to add texture then use a material like pbt I doubt it will become shiny.
FYI, I think Clack copies for any purpose are a ****ty idea.
ClickClack has invested lots of time and money into making these, and he's yet to see ANY profit. If you want 10 Clacks, cough up the dough so he can make FUTURE caps.
Don't be a douche! Support ClickClack!
Wrong. Boobs are #1.
FYI, I think Clack copies for any purpose are a ****ty idea.
ClickClack has invested lots of time and money into making these, and he's yet to see ANY profit. If you want 10 Clacks, cough up the dough so he can make FUTURE caps.
Don't be a douche! Support ClickClack!
Agreed. Sorry, but I don't take low blows lightly. You can't expect me to just let someone call me something I'm not and have the last word. I'm not big enough for that.As long as You know who you are and you are sure about your values, you shall not spend energy trying to convince the others. Remember we are just virtual ;-)
As long as You know who you are and you are sure about your values, you shall not spend energy trying to convince the others. Remember we are just virtual ;-)
Thanks! =DAnd now we finally know what that nub is on the f and J keys ಠ_ಠ don't think I didn't see what you did there.
There seems to be an obsession with boob keys. I might try to make some for you guys to see for the f and j keys. Need to get some modeling clay first.
And now we finally know what that nub is on the f and J keys ಠ_ಠ don't think I didn't see what you did there.
On a completely different note. My girlfriend decided she wanted a special enter key so I get to create a mold and customize the keyface for her.
Thank you ishtob for getting this thread back on topic. I don't like seeing all the fighting between geekhackers here. Honestly each person will do what they are going to do, now perhaps we can get back to talking about design process and improving methods for the mold and actual key production? I would personally love to see a semi-transparent blue keycap. So far it seems like the options have been clear, red, or the slightly green/blue one (called glass) made by Clickclack which of course all of his transparent ones are not readily available for purchase. He is still working hard on those prototypes and I can't wait to see where those go in the next couple of months.
I'll head to my local art shop and pick up some blue dye. What kind of blue are you looking to see?This was the sort of blue I was thinking of, very bold.
Whoa. How are you drilling through the cap without hitting the stem?
That must be nice to have o_o
I trust most of you have seen Jurassic park?
(Attachment) 32349[/ATTACH]
I thought it would be cool to take a dead beetle and cast it into the thick top portion of the keycap. I'll check out my museum sometime to see if they have anything suitable for a keycap.
(Attachment) 32350[/ATTACH] (Attachment) 32351[/ATTACH]
That must be nice to have o_o
I trust most of you have seen Jurassic park?
I thought it would be cool to take a dead beetle and cast it into the thick top portion of the keycap. I'll check out my museum sometime to see if they have anything suitable for a keycap.
Talk about a good idea! I had originally thought about placing things in the mold and then pouring the acrylic in. Like broken pieces of a pcb board metal flakes etc... but never a bug, thats a good idea.
A computer chip would be really cool to cast in! Not to mention a lot easier than a bug. Hazel, I would fill in half the mold, place the bug in, fill up the rest with more resin and then close the mold. This is the only way I can think of doing it to make sure there aren't any air bubbles.
Here's an update on my keys. The clear ones I've created as well as the sparkly sky blue one have cured quite nice. I'm 90% satisfied with their finish. They feel much harder and stiffer than a few days ago.
(Attachment) 32404[/ATTACH]
Here's the blue dyed key I had made per request. This one didnt come out as expected. The walls, being very thin, are extremely transparent compared to the thicker top section. These pictures don't really portray what I'm talking about that well. In person, the walls look much lighter in color. I'll continue experimenting with it until I get the wall color the way I want it. I'm afraid doing so will make the top section look incredibly dark. Also this cast came out significantly more sticky and unfinished with very little rigidity. I got my fingerprints and excess resin embedded all over the surfaces (advice: never do anything with this stuff without gloves on. It's a PITA washing resin off.) I gave it ample time to cure - 24 hours. My hypothesis at the moment is that it may be due to the dye that I have chosen. It's probably a water based dye which would probably soften up the plastic if mixed in. I'll be experimenting with the dye with different types of resins to test it. I'll be disappointed if it turns out I'll have to use a dye specifically made for these plastic resins. The sparkly powder I've added to a previous key seems to have no effect on the cure.
(Attachment) 32405[/ATTACH] (Attachment) 32406[/ATTACH]
Oh yea, and I've started my next cast which uses pearlescent white sparkling powder. I used it in much less concentration than the blue powder. While mixing it up, I couldn't help but notice it looked a lot like shiny semen. Sorry I had to share that, but the resemblance was uncanny.
These things all sound quite big for a keycap.
Whoa ! Nice article ... why didn't I think about making moldsThat looked so cool ;o
Well guys I srsly want to see some of metal powder (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8BIxSp6QNvA) caps
could you please write down the ingredients, the amount, and all the details forevery keycap?. It will be nice to collect all this info in order to have a nice HOW-TOA
I love the color of the blue keys apart from the darker thick areas, which you've mentioned. I think maybe it'll be less apparent if the color was darker/very light.
Tho the current result might look good in green/red. Gives it a nice spooky look.
As for placing things in resin. Do you mean like filling and letting it cure a bit, or just doing those steps without any waiting. I'm thinking that if you let it set/cure, you may end up with a obvious line between the two layers of resin you pour.
I don't know, but I think ICs would fit. Theyre quite thin.
Oh looks like I came back to this thread at just the right time, that blue keycap turned out very awesome. I was just thinking about that today when planning out my keyboard layout. It might be the graininess of the picture but it is hard to tell the blue when it is lit by an LED though. I had been thinking I think if the side walls were a little thicker and the inside of the keycap had a little more of a curve to it, that might really disperse the light evenly and give it a great visual effect.
could you please write down the ingredients, the amount, and all the details forevery keycap?. It will be nice to collect all this info in order to have a nice HOW-TOI was thinking about this earlier. I haven't even been keeping a log for myself (other than this thread). I'm eyeballin' a lot measurements.
If i was reading this article. id love to see the recipes either right at the end or linked.
Something I had thought of was making the main walls 2mm as was mentione before, but also smoothing the corners to make the inside walls more solid. This would make the keycap even more sound dampened and might even make the walls less likely to bend at all. This would be done by taking the original mold and sanding down the shape until it seems right.
But the mold is of silicone? So you would trim/shave the corners with a small sharp blade?The inside part of the keycap mold should be able to be sanded down with sandpaper or something similar if you are careful. I was saying make the inside of the keycap rounder and thicker.
But the mold is of silicone? So you would trim/shave the corners with a small sharp blade?
I was thinking about this earlier. I haven't even been keeping a log for myself (other than this thread). I'm eyeballin' a lot measurements.
I can make my own thread for my run-off on this project, I guess. What do you think is the best way to go about doing this?
Oh yea, and I've started my next cast which uses pearlescent white sparkling powder. I used it in much less concentration than the blue powder. While mixing it up, I couldn't help but notice it looked a lot like shiny semen. Sorry I had to share that, but the resemblance was uncanny.
Yep. It's really soft flexible stuff. Doing detail cuts with the xacto knife is hard to do. The whole piece around the cut warps when you press in.
Hm, PBT... that sounds fun. I wonder if I could just melt down the PBT and use it like that. A metal mold really opens up some possibilities! Right now, I'm fantasizing about glass keycaps. I don't think that would be possible though, since the molten glass would have to have really low viscosity to be workable. Maybe someone else has some insight to this.
I just thought of a really easy way to mix up some resin and coloring for a small batch of keys or even one.
http://www.amazon.com/500-CLEAR-Reclosable-Zipper-Bag/dp/B002EDINF0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1321753128&sr=8-4
Tiny ziplock bags! No need for a mixing stick. You just pour some resin in through a ketchup type bottle. Put some coloring in. Squeeze all of the air out and then proceed to mush it around with your fingers and then cut a small opening in the bottom corner to pour out some material for your mold.
Well I have been lurking around the thread for awhile just spectating and now the urge has become to great. I ordered a 1lb mold making kit from alumilite, purchased a 10lb box of clay, and I am going to pick up some alumilite clear and an array of sandpapers. So hopefully before Christmas I will have a shiny clear Filco!
(Attachment) 32467[/ATTACH] (Attachment) 32468[/ATTACH] (Attachment) 32469[/ATTACH]
You might be able to see the bits of blue at the bottom of the pearl cap. This is the resin from the previous transparent blue cap I created before. Definitely something weird about that resin mix because on the surface of the mold it just wont finish curing (still sticky like some kind of melted candy). It usually just solidifies and I can peel it off the mold no problem. Tomorrow I might have to do a small alcohol cleaning on the mold. After spraying the clear coat onto the blue dyed keycap it seems to be on its way to finish curing like the rest.
Well I have been lurking around the thread for awhile just spectating and now the urge has become to great. I ordered a 1lb mold making kit from alumilite, purchased a 10lb box of clay, and I am going to pick up some alumilite clear and an array of sandpapers. So hopefully before Christmas I will have a shiny clear Filco!
im having the same issue with the clear resin, sometimes it just doesnt seem to want to cure, and some takes up to a week to harden :(
Has anyone done much thinking about how a doubleshot mold might be achieved with similar methods?
Good luck! Keep us posted. I would love to see how you go about making it
Thanks, I am pretty much gonna go about it the same way you guys are doing the caps and use a two-part mold, unfortunately I have to go out of town now a couple times in december and january so I don't know when I will get to actually casting the mold. I still need to find a box or some plexi glass to make the mold with. You guys have been making so many great things that I just really want to get involved.
On another note I noticed that your guys caps are a little thin on the sides and I was thinking(not hard) that maybe you could take the keycap that you are making the mold from and fill it with clay and then carve it out to the thickness that you want. Of course this would require making another mold but would hopefully render thicker keycaps with minimal effort. I have been thinking of trying this so let me know what you think.
you dont need a box, I've seen people use pieces of cardboard held together by duct tape to prevent leaks :P
Pics would just add insult to injury at this point.
I have figured out very quickly that using clay at all in this process is a bad idea. I tried to replicate what I saw in this Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQ1A7ZjTsx8&feature=pyv&ad=5385445946&kw=%22Two-Part%20mold%22), but that was a big mistake. The clay just ended up making a huge mess. Maybe I got the wrong kind idk.
I am kind of at a loss now and not quite sure on how to proceed. At first I thought that the top would be flat enough to where I could just pour the silicone over it and make a one piece mold on a very flat surface but there is a slight curve in the top so I don't if that is feasible although I might still try it.
Feel free to give suggestions... I am giving up for tonight !
what kind of clay are you using? that might make a difference
one more thing whisker, u need at least 1/2 in of silicone on all sides to have a stable mold... ur pick look like you're cutting it real close... should doublecheck that thickness
I hope your plan will work, that would be another way to get cases for the Phantom.
I think that the way you are doing it is probably going to look a lot better, It is my dream to to have a clear keyboard case so I will make this happen one way or another.
Make it happen I want one too! :cool:
I'll commission you for it :D
It is my dream to to have a clear keyboard case so I will make this happen one way or another.
Out of curiosity, is making the top case in 2 pieces (left and right) an option for you? Could that work better somehow? I don't know but thought I'd ask. It sounds like the molding could be easier and possibly save the mold.
Do you think a 2-piece top and 2-piece bottom is better because of the actual sheer length of the case, or because of the particular detail of the case?
I'm thinking about buying some Instant Mold:
[video=youtube;ub70AU5RfmI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ub70AU5RfmI[/video]
Then I will try to use some Milliput or Green stuff I already have at home. I would be able to sand them and do some cool designs at the top of the keycap.
You can make some cool top designs, I don't think you can make the stem tho.
I'd really like to try my hand at making some keys, but I'm stuck with thin caps that really wouldn't be good for mold making ( Filco's and wasd ). Is there anyone out there that would be willing to donate a thick cherry cap for science? Preferably a row 1?
Use some putty and put it on the inside of a keycap you don't need. Its not clean, but it'll work. You can always sand it till its smooth after applying the putty to make it thicker.
Making a mold for a keycap is not going to be very easy. Unless you have access to really good silicone, and a lot of experience in 2-part molds. The small thin surfaces and tight dimensions (stem) make any non-aluminum/metal molds very difficult.
Unless you're going to do a stem impant into the keycap.... which would make it slightly easier.
I ended up ordering one pack of Instant Mold and will post some experiences when it arrives here.
I'm mostly interested in making Topre keys and I think the Steam is easier to reproduce.
Can't wait to see that! =D
I've seen some of the 3D prints, they can get pretty detailed depending on what kind of 3D printer it is. I just don't like the texture you get on the sides from the materials being layered
could always tie her up before you continue the next batch.
Start making 3d skull caps for a profit :D
omg that brings back childhood memories!
Also this is just funny. Tell me this doesn't look like an eraser lol
(Attachment) 45707[/ATTACH]
I managed to make a copy of a Topre key with Instant mold and Milliput black.I was thinking of getting some instant mold, I'm glad that it works, it looks so easy even I can do it!
The key required some sanding and cutting leftover putty but overal is pretty nice. The stem need some tweaking but fits the switch perfectly. I used a Click Clack key as a mold and I reccomend you to do the same because they're thick and easier to reproduce because the Stem is way better than the original one. It is for personal use so no worries here, I made a Skull one to use as a keychan.
omg that brings back childhood memories!
eraser > red
omg that brings back childhood memories!
eraser > red
I was thinking of getting some instant mold, I'm glad that it works, it looks so easy even I can do it!
Tiny ziplock bags! No need for a mixing stick. You just pour some resin in through a ketchup type bottle. Put some coloring in. Squeeze all of the air out and then proceed to mush it around with your fingers and then cut a small opening in the bottom corner to pour out some material for your mold.
I just got caught up and have to say I am mighty impressed by all the fun you guys have been having. I got inspired to researching more about how to get the materials here in Norway while I wait for my green card to come through, but oh my lord is it difficult to get the right resources in this little country.
Suffice to say I can't wait to get back to the states so that I can finally start working on my own key cap designs. I already have a lot of ideas that I am working with my artistically inclined wife to make reality.
I am excited to see what more you guys will be making =) Keep up the good "work"! =D
Please do make video's on you first attempts..... If those bags leak or pop open you might have yourself the ultimate DIY hit on youtube, keep in mind that peoper resin can only be removed mechanically.
If i were you id just buy a bunch of those disposable paper coffee-cups and mixing spade thingies (or even better, 'borrow' em from your boss if you know what i mean). They cost close to nothing. DONT use plastic cups, polyester based resins will dissolve it and epoxy based stuff will melt it making a huge mess!! If you manage to get your hands on a crappy enough resin combo plastic cups might work, but i still advise strongly against it.
Sigh. Update 2.
The bloody sculpery III clay I used to make the registry key caused parts of the silicone rubber to not cure for some reason. It's supposed to be sulphur free too:/
Is it a must to bake the clay before using it? Anyone knows?
Also this is just funny. Tell me this doesn't look like an eraser lol
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everybody be going to the container store lol , yes casting keys is a motherf-----. I don't know why everyone always trys casting CC's as a test, I guess it is probably because they are so thick. If you are trying to cast a thick key you can always fill the inside with clay and then cast it.
Mugen, do you have a washing machine that you can set to spin? Or a tumble dryer? You really need to help the air bubbles out. You could use anything with a vibrating motor though. You could even use a constant vibrate application on your phone, put it on top of your mold (or bottom, whatever), and let it vibrate the bubbles out.
why casting a CC?
there's a few reasons for me
-skull is a popular icon,
-CC caps are always thicker, & I am poor @ sculpting those ****ty clays
-there's no better keycap-sized model outside for me to cast. (I tried few, never worked, still working on it:blah:)
-I don't make USBs like you.
-If you don't want to make stuffs become popular, don't share it! (esp. those containers are so cheap)
I could build an army, but I didn't
& you will never know how hard for me to get a auth. CC, THAT'S WHY I made a few for myself
and again, it's just for fun, no offence at all.
Also, vacuum out the bubbles after mixing your resin. Bubbles form as the resin exotherms and forces disolved air out of solution.
Pour gently into mold.
Put mold + resin under 50psi of pressure. That crushes existing bubbles out of existence.
__red__
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Hey,
Doesnt this require special equipment?
Aren't the usual epoxy and polyester casting resins normally transparent?
Mixing? like pouring the uncured gucks together? That sounds like a terribly bad idea...
So why?
I couldn't give you an educated answer, but my impression has always been that it is sensitive enough to get perfect curing as it is. Mixing up different kinds of resins and hardeners that haven't been tested together just sounds like asking for trouble...
Here is my first product :-D. The stem is broken, still need to re-make the mold :p
Anyone know how to get a matte finished for keycaps' surface? I tried with sand paper and it was the worst decision :-(.I like my keycaps smooooth and beautiful. :-*
i know exactly what should exist...
a set of blank transparent keycaps, on a black board, with blue switches,
but fluoro yellowShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/IHO3BNi.jpg)
you know the stuff, it was all over the 90s.
Hi, im totally new to this things. soo after pouring the resin, can you still reuse the sillicon?Anyone?
You can reuse silicon molds as long as they do not break/degrade.Being a noob at this, how do you do resin casting?
After enough reproductions your molds will break.
Since binge you are making keycaps, could you help to maybe make a video of the resin casting process?
http://www.alumilite.com/HowTos/TailLightCastingNoEquipment.cfmYou can reuse silicon molds as long as they do not break/degrade.Being a noob at this, how do you do resin casting?
After enough reproductions your molds will break.
U pour resin first into this partShow Image(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y222/icbob/57cb1e94.jpg)
And then you just put this:Show Image(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y222/icbob/5de05345.jpg)
And squeeze it at the top?
Could any pro post a video of filling the resin? I'm still very new to this resin casting. The mold making is very easy to understand but I don't get how to do the resin part. Since binge you are making keycaps, could you help to maybe make a video of the resin casting process?
Can I ask why you put clay in the keycap?