geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: HotRoderX on Sat, 10 February 2018, 15:30:31
-
I need a bit of advice is there any do's or do not's to soldering zeal clear bottom switches? I have heard they are easier to damage then the other options. These are going on a Nerd 60 PCB and I am still a pretty big novice when it comes to soldering. This is the PCB in question https://1upkeyboards.com/gon-nerd60-black-gold-1up-pcb.html. I figured I use the Zeals cause I got them laying around and why not. I also have a set of Pro Purple switches I could use if that be a better option. I know this builds been a on going project since like October where nothing has gone smoothly.
Another question I ask in the same thread is... any advice on soldering LED's? I was going to soldier the switches now then do the LED's down the road in a month are so. Once I decided what keyset I want to use.
Right now i am between getting JTK White on Purple, EnjoyPBT Black/Purple or JTK Toxic.
-
If you sit there with soldering iron on the legs too long, you will melt the bottom of the case where the legs poke through.
Personally, I have never had this issue, but I have seen a lot of pics of switches pulled with melted plastic around the legs. I guess these people may have problems with zeal switches. When soldering, just move at a consistent and brisk pace with a decent iron that can hold it's temp, and you should be fine.
-
Never had a problem. Iron at 680F, one second preheat, 2-3 second solder application, 1 second more heat. I think you'd have to have horrible technique or try pretty hard to melt anything.
-
Another way to go is to install sockets of some sort and then you don't have to solder switches, so they look mint if you even decide to pull them out and maybe sell.
-
Another way to go is to install sockets of some sort and then you don't have to solder switches, so they look mint if you even decide to pull them out and maybe sell.
+1 Leds are really easy to solder but a pain to desolder. Also after you've soldered the leds you can't open the switch to do modifications, which will lower the value if you do end up selling the board later.
-
Lots of people will tell you that the hotter the iron the better, but you don't have to go as high as 600-700F. 60/40 Sn-Pb lead melts at 370F and SAC305 melts at around 423F. So bump the temperature a bit above those figures and you should be fine. I personally use SAC305 for my keyboard builds and I use a cheap soldering iron with rough temperature control (only a dial). I turn it a bit past 400F and I've had no issues (probably in the 450-550F range). You should only be spending a few seconds with each joint, so you'll only melt the plastic or damage the pad if you hold your iron there for a prolonged period. I also desolder with this iron without issues, but it does take a bit more practice to get your desoldering technique down.
-
Lots of people will tell you that the hotter the iron the better, but you don't have to go as high as 600-700F. 60/40 Sn-Pb lead melts at 370F and SAC305 melts at around 423F. So bump the temperature a bit above those figures and you should be fine. I personally use SAC305 for my keyboard builds and I use a cheap soldering iron with rough temperature control (only a dial). I turn it a bit past 400F and I've had no issues (probably in the 450-550F range). You should only be spending a few seconds with each joint, so you'll only melt the plastic or damage the pad if you hold your iron there for a prolonged period. I also desolder with this iron without issues, but it does take a bit more practice to get your desoldering technique down.
Too hot is bad, but arguably not as bad as too cold, and the reason is that you want localized heating and less overall heating. With a hotter iron, you don't have to hold it on the leg as long to heat it up, so less damage overall. Plastic melts regardless, might as well make it go fast. The problem with copper is, it is also a great thermal conductor. Regardless, I think MOST of the damage people do to switches is from desoldering with poor technique or poor equipment. The main problem with an iron too hot is if they also have poor technique and just end up burning flux and roasting things by heating the legs for far too long. I would hate to see what the heck someone is doing to damage a switch when INSTALLING them xD
Maybe it is because I actually looked up how to solder before I ever attempted it, but never once have I ever burned flux. When I see boards with burnt flux char, I honestly scratch my head in confusion how or why they would do that xD
-
Lots of people will tell you that the hotter the iron the better, but you don't have to go as high as 600-700F. 60/40 Sn-Pb lead melts at 370F and SAC305 melts at around 423F. So bump the temperature a bit above those figures and you should be fine. I personally use SAC305 for my keyboard builds and I use a cheap soldering iron with rough temperature control (only a dial). I turn it a bit past 400F and I've had no issues (probably in the 450-550F range). You should only be spending a few seconds with each joint, so you'll only melt the plastic or damage the pad if you hold your iron there for a prolonged period. I also desolder with this iron without issues, but it does take a bit more practice to get your desoldering technique down.
Too hot is bad, but arguably not as bad as too cold, and the reason is that you want localized heating and less overall heating. With a hotter iron, you don't have to hold it on the leg as long to heat it up, so less damage overall. Plastic melts regardless, might as well make it go fast. The problem with copper is, it is also a great thermal conductor. Regardless, I think MOST of the damage people do to switches is from desoldering with poor technique or poor equipment. The main problem with an iron too hot is if they also have poor technique and just end up burning flux and roasting things by heating the legs for far too long. I would hate to see what the heck someone is doing to damage a switch when INSTALLING them xD
Agreed. Regarding the reports of melting/damaged zealios during installation, I'd wager it's user error rather than an issue with the switches. Early rounds saw numerous reports of switches chattering after installation, but I've never encountered that issue with any zealios (I've soldered 700+ of them across several rounds).
-
Lots of people will tell you that the hotter the iron the better, but you don't have to go as high as 600-700F. 60/40 Sn-Pb lead melts at 370F and SAC305 melts at around 423F. So bump the temperature a bit above those figures and you should be fine. I personally use SAC305 for my keyboard builds and I use a cheap soldering iron with rough temperature control (only a dial). I turn it a bit past 400F and I've had no issues (probably in the 450-550F range). You should only be spending a few seconds with each joint, so you'll only melt the plastic or damage the pad if you hold your iron there for a prolonged period. I also desolder with this iron without issues, but it does take a bit more practice to get your desoldering technique down.
Too hot is bad, but arguably not as bad as too cold, and the reason is that you want localized heating and less overall heating. With a hotter iron, you don't have to hold it on the leg as long to heat it up, so less damage overall. Plastic melts regardless, might as well make it go fast. The problem with copper is, it is also a great thermal conductor. Regardless, I think MOST of the damage people do to switches is from desoldering with poor technique or poor equipment. The main problem with an iron too hot is if they also have poor technique and just end up burning flux and roasting things by heating the legs for far too long. I would hate to see what the heck someone is doing to damage a switch when INSTALLING them xD
Maybe it is because I actually looked up how to solder before I ever attempted it, but never once have I ever burned flux. When I see boards with burnt flux char, I honestly scratch my head in confusion how or why they would do that xD
The problem with high temperatures is that is not forgiving for beginners. 99% of the time when you are desoldering and the lead doesnt melt, it is because lack of surface of heat. Don't crank your temperatures up, add more solder to your Iron and cause more surface for the heat to transfer to. (I don't really know the correct terminology in English :( ).
-
Thanks everyone for the help. I did go low temp and things seem to go smoothly. I got the entire board soldered in under 45mins. I was extremely happy and impressed. I am just waiting on my LED"s now. I hope they go as smoothly. I found 2nd time is the charm cause the first time i soldered a board. It took like 4hrs and I was a nervous wreck. This time I just got a rhythm was like done!.. I Appreciate the advice thought low heat seems to be the way to go instead of cranking it as high as possible. I did have a few spots I added a bit of extra solder to but it wasn't a big deal. overall was really happy with the end results. I just hope my LED's go as smoothly. I wouldn't sell this board either its kinda turned into a Hodge podge...
KBDFan's 5 Degree Case
1up Carbon Fiber 60% plate
Gon NerD 60 PCB
I got some violet LED's and Enjoy Pbt keycaps coming in for it.
So far I been typing on it a few days and I can see it becoming one of my favor board's special with how easy it was to program. I was able to turn my right shift key into a FN key and have two sets of FN Arrows setup. Which is amazing and exactly what I wanted on a 50% board.