NOW OPEN SOURCE!!! swill's plate building tool [builder.swillkb.com]

[Melvang]

Taking a closer look at the output DXFs I'm wondering if the problem is the size of the middle pieces, which the holes must be in the center of. It would be helpful to understand how the width of the middle outline pieces are calculated. I also wonder if there is a minimum distance required for particular hole sizes using particular materials. Perhaps a M2 hole can be 2 mm from the edge in stainless steel, but would need to be 3mm from the edge in Acrylic, etc.

Also, what is the best resource for understanding all the precise measurements of the switch holes, stab holes, distance between them, etc. I see a lot of that is spread out through this thread, and I know Cherry has some measurement inform in their product sheets, but I'm curious if there are good online resources that explain all the variables for different switch types, different keycap sizes, cherry vs. costar stabs, mx and other switches, etc.

Lastly, for those who have built sandwich cases using Swill's tool, what materials did you use, what cutting techniques, how thick were all your plates, and how many layers did you use? Curious to hear what has worked, and also learn from what has not.

Thanks.

I made my sandwich with Swill's builder, 4mm semi-frost, 6mm frost acrylic and my uni's crappy laser cutter. The laser was weak so it had to go over cut lines again for 6mm, here are the results:

Show Image

4 pieces for 2 boards.
and put together:

Show Image

As you can see the acrylic edge is 'going inwards', compared to metal plates which were 'professionally cut' (if you live in NZ don't go to HSM). Probably the laser's fault though.
I used M3 10mm standoffs for those hexagons (http://www.ebay.com/itm/261283813262?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) and the cut dimension is 5.5mm inscribed which fit fine. M3 5mm screws: http://www.ebay.com/itm/111471636269?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=410467517385&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Also thank you Swill for the stabiliser fix!
Edit: Current progress: http://puu.sh/hVchB.jpg 

Those screws!  I must know what their chamfer angle is!  Their number!  I must know how many!  That switch plate!  I must know if it is 1.5mm thick!  If not, I must know if you adjusted thickness to account for screw chamfer!

Yours is the first non-Korean custom case I've seen that used countersunk screws.  That's the design element that's been torturing me for my case design.  I thought I would have to get screws with a 100 or 110 degree chamfer to ensure that the screw was holding onto enough of the switch plate but I can't find screws like that anywhere.  I think there's a secret cabal that keeps those screws off the open market.  Did you chamfer the screw holes on the switch plate yourself or did you have the cutter do it?

On chamfer angles for counter sunk screws.  For this application, I wouldn't worry about it.  Just make sure that they angle matches the hardware.  I used 90° hardware for my JD40 and everything tightened up just fine.  The only time that the flatter angle helps is in applications where maximum strength in thin materials is the number 1 priority.  Such as aviation.  The skin on Black Hawk helicopters contributes about 0% of the structural integrity of the airframe.

[wes1099]

I ordered my plate generated from swill's site for my infinity keyboard a few days ago, hopefully it works out nicely. I had to make a few adjustments in illustrator before the laser cutting place would accept it, but that wasn't too hard. I got it laser cut out of 1.5mm acrylic and the total was $15 with shipping becuase ponoko.com gives a $20 discount for your first project if you make it within a week of signing up. Hopefully it fits in a poker II compatable case, but it doesn't I am sure I could fix that somehow.

[derezzed]

Taking a closer look at the output DXFs I'm wondering if the problem is the size of the middle pieces, which the holes must be in the center of. It would be helpful to understand how the width of the middle outline pieces are calculated. I also wonder if there is a minimum distance required for particular hole sizes using particular materials. Perhaps a M2 hole can be 2 mm from the edge in stainless steel, but would need to be 3mm from the edge in Acrylic, etc.

Also, what is the best resource for understanding all the precise measurements of the switch holes, stab holes, distance between them, etc. I see a lot of that is spread out through this thread, and I know Cherry has some measurement inform in their product sheets, but I'm curious if there are good online resources that explain all the variables for different switch types, different keycap sizes, cherry vs. costar stabs, mx and other switches, etc.

Lastly, for those who have built sandwich cases using Swill's tool, what materials did you use, what cutting techniques, how thick were all your plates, and how many layers did you use? Curious to hear what has worked, and also learn from what has not.

Thanks.

I made my sandwich with Swill's builder, 4mm semi-frost, 6mm frost acrylic and my uni's crappy laser cutter. The laser was weak so it had to go over cut lines again for 6mm, here are the results:

Show Image

4 pieces for 2 boards.
and put together:

Show Image

As you can see the acrylic edge is 'going inwards', compared to metal plates which were 'professionally cut' (if you live in NZ don't go to HSM). Probably the laser's fault though.
I used M3 10mm standoffs for those hexagons (http://www.ebay.com/itm/261283813262?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) and the cut dimension is 5.5mm inscribed which fit fine. M3 5mm screws: http://www.ebay.com/itm/111471636269?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=410467517385&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Also thank you Swill for the stabiliser fix!
Edit: Current progress: http://puu.sh/hVchB.jpg 

Those screws!  I must know what their chamfer angle is!  Their number!  I must know how many!  That switch plate!  I must know if it is 1.5mm thick!  If not, I must know if you adjusted thickness to account for screw chamfer!

Yours is the first non-Korean custom case I've seen that used countersunk screws.  That's the design element that's been torturing me for my case design.  I thought I would have to get screws with a 100 or 110 degree chamfer to ensure that the screw was holding onto enough of the switch plate but I can't find screws like that anywhere.  I think there's a secret cabal that keeps those screws off the open market.  Did you chamfer the screw holes on the switch plate yourself or did you have the cutter do it?

On chamfer angles for counter sunk screws.  For this application, I wouldn't worry about it.  Just make sure that they angle matches the hardware.  I used 90° hardware for my JD40 and everything tightened up just fine.  The only time that the flatter angle helps is in applications where maximum strength in thin materials is the number 1 priority.  Such as aviation.  The skin on Black Hawk helicopters contributes about 0% of the structural integrity of the airframe.

Thanks for confirming this.  One less barrier remains in my path to custom keyboard nirvana.  Now I just need to get a drill press, countersink bit, and tap set when I'm ready to order my plates.

Actually, I was the one that devised the method to use hex stand-offs in middle layers and countersunk screws on top and bottom layers. It was first used on the GHPad about a year or two back. The Koreans then followed.

Thanks for bringing the GHPad to my attention.  I PM'ed you with several questions last week, but Melvang answered them here.

[wes1099]

So, I had my first case and plate cut in acrylic today. I am using 1.6mm acrylic for the mounting plate and 3mm acrylic for the support and other layers. The process of cutting has left some burning marks on most of the layers, making the surface a little bit rough, but It mostly goes by annoticed, especially on the black sheets. My problem at the moment, is that costar stabilizers and the switches don't clip in place, my guess is because the plate is too thick, and I'm thinking of using sandpaper to get it to 1.5mm if possible. Here go the pictures. Excuse me for the bad quality and lighting:

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

How did you make the support layer that goes underneath the plate? I am thinking I am going to need one of those to go with my acrylic plate too.

[OverKill]

Taking a closer look at the output DXFs I'm wondering if the problem is the size of the middle pieces, which the holes must be in the center of. It would be helpful to understand how the width of the middle outline pieces are calculated. I also wonder if there is a minimum distance required for particular hole sizes using particular materials. Perhaps a M2 hole can be 2 mm from the edge in stainless steel, but would need to be 3mm from the edge in Acrylic, etc.

Also, what is the best resource for understanding all the precise measurements of the switch holes, stab holes, distance between them, etc. I see a lot of that is spread out through this thread, and I know Cherry has some measurement inform in their product sheets, but I'm curious if there are good online resources that explain all the variables for different switch types, different keycap sizes, cherry vs. costar stabs, mx and other switches, etc.

Lastly, for those who have built sandwich cases using Swill's tool, what materials did you use, what cutting techniques, how thick were all your plates, and how many layers did you use? Curious to hear what has worked, and also learn from what has not.

Thanks.

I made my sandwich with Swill's builder, 4mm semi-frost, 6mm frost acrylic and my uni's crappy laser cutter. The laser was weak so it had to go over cut lines again for 6mm, here are the results:

Show Image

4 pieces for 2 boards.
and put together:

Show Image

As you can see the acrylic edge is 'going inwards', compared to metal plates which were 'professionally cut' (if you live in NZ don't go to HSM). Probably the laser's fault though.
I used M3 10mm standoffs for those hexagons (http://www.ebay.com/itm/261283813262?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) and the cut dimension is 5.5mm inscribed which fit fine. M3 5mm screws: http://www.ebay.com/itm/111471636269?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=410467517385&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Also thank you Swill for the stabiliser fix!
Edit: Current progress: http://puu.sh/hVchB.jpg 

Those screws!  I must know what their chamfer angle is!  Their number!  I must know how many!  That switch plate!  I must know if it is 1.5mm thick!  If not, I must know if you adjusted thickness to account for screw chamfer!

Yours is the first non-Korean custom case I've seen that used countersunk screws.  That's the design element that's been torturing me for my case design.  I thought I would have to get screws with a 100 or 110 degree chamfer to ensure that the screw was holding onto enough of the switch plate but I can't find screws like that anywhere.  I think there's a secret cabal that keeps those screws off the open market.  Did you chamfer the screw holes on the switch plate yourself or did you have the cutter do it?

BTW, for flathead screws: metric screws are 90 degrees (unless they say otherwise) and american screws are 82 degrees (unless they say otherwise)

[wes1099]

Is there a way for me to move the USB cutout on a sandwitch case so I can use a poker II or similar PCB?

[swill]

Is there a way for me to move the USB cutout on a sandwitch case so I can use a poker II or similar PCB?

Not at this time. It is a feature I am still figuring out how to implement.

[wes1099]

So I got my plate a few days ago, and I tried to test fit some things today and things did not go so well. I got the plate laser cut out of 1.5mm acrylic because I can not afford a metal one at the moment, so there were quite a few weak spots where the acrylic broke while inserting stabilizers. There is one super thin piece that broke off near a screw hole, then the piece below the spacebar broke, then a few other bits broke around the right stabilizer hole for the return key. I decided that I want to try to get rid of the weak spots and try again with the 1.5mm acrylic before I go spend $100 to get a metal one. The first thing I did was get rid of the cherry stabilizer compatability since I only need costar, and I think that will make it stronger around the spacebar area because that eliminates the long hole going from stabilizer to stabilizer. I did not have an internet connection at the time and I had nothing better to do, so I ended up making the changed manually. I am fairly sure I fixed most of the weak spots except one, and I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on how I could fix it. Here are some pics of what I have done.

These are the main weak points


Removing this horizontal hole spanning the area between the two spacebar stabilizers



Removing cherry stabilizer compatability to minimize amount of material that gets cut out. Also reduces cost as a bonus.


This is the weakest spot in the entire design because those two lines are almost on top of each other, and I have no idea how I can fix that without obstructing access to the screw hole

[heedpantsnow]

So I was trying to make a Poker plate with 2mm corners and a hole for stepped or centered caps lock.  But it's out of whack:


Here's what I sent in:

Code: [Select]

["~\n`","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=",{w:2},"Backspace"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"|\n\\"],
[{w:1.25},"Stepped",{w:1.75,x:-1.25},"Caps Lock",{x:0.5},"A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:2.75},"Shift"],
[{w:1.25},"Ctrl",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:6.25},"",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Menu",{w:1.25},"Ctrl"]
Can anyone help me with what's wrong?  I'm assuming it's the Caps lock, but also are the screw holes supposed to run into the switch holes?

[VinnyCordeiro]

So I was trying to make a Poker plate with 2mm corners and a hole for stepped or centered caps lock.  But it's out of whack:
(Attachment Link)

Here's what I sent in:

Code: [Select]

["~\n`","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=",{w:2},"Backspace"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"|\n\\"],
[{w:1.25},"Stepped",{w:1.75,x:-1.25},"Caps Lock",{x:0.5},"A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:2.75},"Shift"],
[{w:1.25},"Ctrl",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:6.25},"",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Menu",{w:1.25},"Ctrl"]
Can anyone help me with what's wrong?  I'm assuming it's the Caps lock, but also are the screw holes supposed to run into the switch holes?

To the right of the Caps Lock the entire row is shifted 0.5 unit from the place where they were supposed to be. The following data should correct it:

Code: [Select]

["~\n`","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=",{w:2},"Backspace"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"|\n\\"],
[{w:1.25},"Stepped",{x:-1.25,w:1.75},"Caps Lock","A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:2.75},"Shift"],
[{w:1.25},"Ctrl",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:6.25},"",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Menu",{w:1.25},"Ctrl"]

[nephiel]

So I was trying to make a Poker plate with 2mm corners and a hole for stepped or centered caps lock.  But it's out of whack:
(Attachment Link)

Here's what I sent in:

Code: [Select]

["~\n`","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=",{w:2},"Backspace"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"|\n\\"],
[{w:1.25},"Stepped",{w:1.75,x:-1.25},"Caps Lock",{x:0.5},"A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:2.75},"Shift"],
[{w:1.25},"Ctrl",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:6.25},"",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Menu",{w:1.25},"Ctrl"]
Can anyone help me with what's wrong?  I'm assuming it's the Caps lock, but also are the screw holes supposed to run into the switch holes?

To the right of the Caps Lock the entire row is shifted 0.5 unit from the place where they were supposed to be. The following data should correct it:

Code: [Select]

["~\n`","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=",{w:2},"Backspace"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"|\n\\"],
[{w:1.25},"Stepped",{x:-1.25,w:1.75},"Caps Lock","A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:2.75},"Shift"],
[{w:1.25},"Ctrl",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:6.25},"",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Menu",{w:1.25},"Ctrl"]

You also have an extra key labeled "Stepped" hidden behind the Caps Lock key. Fixed:

Code: [Select]

["~\n`","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=",{w:2},"Backspace"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"|\n\\"],
[{w:1.75},"Caps Lock","A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:2.75},"Shift"],
[{w:1.25},"Ctrl",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:6.25},"",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Menu",{w:1.25},"Ctrl"]


[VinnyCordeiro]

You also have an extra key labeled "Stepped" hidden behind the Caps Lock key. Fixed:

Code: [Select]

["~\n`","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=",{w:2},"Backspace"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"|\n\\"],
[{w:1.75},"Caps Lock","A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:2.75},"Shift"],
[{w:1.25},"Ctrl",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:6.25},"",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Menu",{w:1.25},"Ctrl"]


Actually the hidden key is a hack that allows the builder make the correct cutout for both centered and off centered versions of the Caps Lock, it is desirable.

[nephiel]

Actually the hidden key is a hack that allows the builder make the correct cutout for both centered and off centered versions of the Caps Lock, it is desirable.

Ah, sorry then. I thought it was there by mistake because the cutout overlapped the screw hole.

[Charger]

So again I will ask, if any one is willing to idiot check my files before i try ordering them? I basically just want to know if I messed up something like scale on the file and that switches should fit since that is a decent amount of money lost if it is wrong and I order from in stainless from big blue saw

I have tried it in programs and I think it is correct but I couldn't get my printer to print it full scale for me to check it that way.

I have attached the file if anyone is willing to look at it, the parts were made with the tool and then slightly modified by me for somethings.

[heedpantsnow]

So I was trying to make a Poker plate with 2mm corners and a hole for stepped or centered caps lock.  But it's out of whack:
(Attachment Link)

Here's what I sent in:

Code: [Select]

["~\n`","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=",{w:2},"Backspace"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"|\n\\"],
[{w:1.25},"Stepped",{w:1.75,x:-1.25},"Caps Lock",{x:0.5},"A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:2.75},"Shift"],
[{w:1.25},"Ctrl",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:6.25},"",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Menu",{w:1.25},"Ctrl"]
Can anyone help me with what's wrong?  I'm assuming it's the Caps lock, but also are the screw holes supposed to run into the switch holes?

To the right of the Caps Lock the entire row is shifted 0.5 unit from the place where they were supposed to be. The following data should correct it:

Code: [Select]

["~\n`","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=",{w:2},"Backspace"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"|\n\\"],
[{w:1.25},"Stepped",{x:-1.25,w:1.75},"Caps Lock","A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:2.75},"Shift"],
[{w:1.25},"Ctrl",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:6.25},"",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Menu",{w:1.25},"Ctrl"]

Actually the hidden key is a hack that allows the builder make the correct cutout for both centered and off centered versions of the Caps Lock, it is desirable.

Ah, sorry then. I thought it was there by mistake because the cutout overlapped the screw hole.

You also have an extra key labeled "Stepped" hidden behind the Caps Lock key. Fixed:

Code: [Select]

["~\n`","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=",{w:2},"Backspace"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"|\n\\"],
[{w:1.75},"Caps Lock","A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:2.75},"Shift"],
[{w:1.25},"Ctrl",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:6.25},"",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Menu",{w:1.25},"Ctrl"]


Actually the hidden key is a hack that allows the builder make the correct cutout for both centered and off centered versions of the Caps Lock, it is desirable.

So I was trying to make a Poker plate with 2mm corners and a hole for stepped or centered caps lock.  But it's out of whack:
(Attachment Link)

Here's what I sent in:

Code: [Select]

["~\n`","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=",{w:2},"Backspace"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"|\n\\"],
[{w:1.25},"Stepped",{w:1.75,x:-1.25},"Caps Lock",{x:0.5},"A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:2.75},"Shift"],
[{w:1.25},"Ctrl",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:6.25},"",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Menu",{w:1.25},"Ctrl"]
Can anyone help me with what's wrong?  I'm assuming it's the Caps lock, but also are the screw holes supposed to run into the switch holes?

To the right of the Caps Lock the entire row is shifted 0.5 unit from the place where they were supposed to be. The following data should correct it:

Code: [Select]

["~\n`","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=",{w:2},"Backspace"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"|\n\\"],
[{w:1.25},"Stepped",{x:-1.25,w:1.75},"Caps Lock","A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:2.75},"Shift"],
[{w:1.25},"Ctrl",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:6.25},"",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Menu",{w:1.25},"Ctrl"]

You also have an extra key labeled "Stepped" hidden behind the Caps Lock key. Fixed:

Code: [Select]

["~\n`","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=",{w:2},"Backspace"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"|\n\\"],
[{w:1.75},"Caps Lock","A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:2.75},"Shift"],
[{w:1.25},"Ctrl",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:6.25},"",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Menu",{w:1.25},"Ctrl"]


Thanks, guys, so so much for your help.  That did it!  I'm so happy now.  Uploading to Ponoko!

[worldspawn]

I just had a customer send me a vector file he said was output by the plate builder, EVERY vector in the file was a 4-sided rectangle with 2 of the sides set to 0mm.  This is a HUGE issue for a laser cutter as it cuts every line twice.  Is this an intentional feature??

Example:

(notice the extra vector ends)


and pulling them out:

[jdcarpe]

So again I will ask, if any one is willing to idiot check my files before i try ordering them? I basically just want to know if I messed up something like scale on the file and that switches should fit since that is a decent amount of money lost if it is wrong and I order from in stainless from big blue saw

I have tried it in programs and I think it is correct but I couldn't get my printer to print it full scale for me to check it that way.

I have attached the file if anyone is willing to look at it, the parts were made with the tool and then slightly modified by me for somethings.

I can check it for you tomorrow if you like.

[Charger]

So again I will ask, if any one is willing to idiot check my files before i try ordering them? I basically just want to know if I messed up something like scale on the file and that switches should fit since that is a decent amount of money lost if it is wrong and I order from in stainless from big blue saw

I have tried it in programs and I think it is correct but I couldn't get my printer to print it full scale for me to check it that way.

I have attached the file if anyone is willing to look at it, the parts were made with the tool and then slightly modified by me for somethings.

I can check it for you tomorrow if you like.

That would be great, thank you.

[wes1099]

I just had a customer send me a vector file he said was output by the plate builder, EVERY vector in the file was a 4-sided rectangle with 2 of the sides set to 0mm.  This is a HUGE issue for a laser cutter as it cuts every line twice.  Is this an intentional feature??

Example:

(notice the extra vector ends)

Show Image

and pulling them out:

Show Image

That is strange, because I did not have that issue when I got my plate laser cut. I downloaded the file from the generator, changed a few settings and exported as a different file type to meet the requirements of the company doing the cutting, uploaded it, and it was fine. I just downloaded a file from the generator yesterday and while editing it I did not experience this issue. I don't know much about this tool so you should probably ask Swill (he made the tool). It might have something to do with what your customer put into the generator, but I don't know what else it would be.

[worldspawn]

I just had a customer send me a vector file he said was output by the plate builder, EVERY vector in the file was a 4-sided rectangle with 2 of the sides set to 0mm.  This is a HUGE issue for a laser cutter as it cuts every line twice.  Is this an intentional feature??

Example:

(notice the extra vector ends)

Show Image

and pulling them out:

Show Image

That is strange, because I did not have that issue when I got my plate laser cut. I downloaded the file from the generator, changed a few settings and exported as a different file type to meet the requirements of the company doing the cutting, uploaded it, and it was fine. I just downloaded a file from the generator yesterday and while editing it I did not experience this issue. I don't know much about this tool so you should probably ask Swill (he made the tool). It might have something to do with what your customer put into the generator, but I don't know what else it would be.

I went to the generator, and output a file from the default numpad layout and yep, all vectors are 0mm wide rectangles straight from the svg file output from the website.

[jdcarpe]

So again I will ask, if any one is willing to idiot check my files before i try ordering them? I basically just want to know if I messed up something like scale on the file and that switches should fit since that is a decent amount of money lost if it is wrong and I order from in stainless from big blue saw

I have tried it in programs and I think it is correct but I couldn't get my printer to print it full scale for me to check it that way.

I have attached the file if anyone is willing to look at it, the parts were made with the tool and then slightly modified by me for somethings.

I can check it for you tomorrow if you like.

That would be great, thank you.

Looks good to me. I didn't see anything out of place. I did have to explode all the blocks to check the dimensions, but I don't know if that's a problem for the cutter or not.

[wes1099]

With the first plate I got the stabilizer cutouts were a little loose, should I try making them smaller by like 0.25 on each side?

[Charger]

Looks good to me. I didn't see anything out of place. I did have to explode all the blocks to check the dimensions, but I don't know if that's a problem for the cutter or not.

Thank you.

Since i will probably be ordering from bigbluesaw tomorrow or so does any one have any suggestions on how i should do that as in should i just do it through his online quote tool or what? I'm assuming i should get it cut in .06" stainless steel unless anyone says otherwise.

[heedpantsnow]

Looks good to me. I didn't see anything out of place. I did have to explode all the blocks to check the dimensions, but I don't know if that's a problem for the cutter or not.

Thank you.

Since i will probably be ordering from bigbluesaw tomorrow or so does any one have any suggestions on how i should do that as in should i just do it through his online quote tool or what? I'm assuming i should get it cut in .06" stainless steel unless anyone says otherwise.

1.5mm is the standard.

Don't forget to convert it to mm before uploading to BBS.

[Charger]

Looks good to me. I didn't see anything out of place. I did have to explode all the blocks to check the dimensions, but I don't know if that's a problem for the cutter or not.

Thank you.

Since i will probably be ordering from bigbluesaw tomorrow or so does any one have any suggestions on how i should do that as in should i just do it through his online quote tool or what? I'm assuming i should get it cut in .06" stainless steel unless anyone says otherwise.

1.5mm is the standard.

Don't forget to convert it to mm before uploading to BBS.

ya the file is in set to metric and bbs have materials listed in inches and .06 inches is 1.524mm so that seems to be the best choice

[heedpantsnow]

Looks good to me. I didn't see anything out of place. I did have to explode all the blocks to check the dimensions, but I don't know if that's a problem for the cutter or not.

Thank you.

Since i will probably be ordering from bigbluesaw tomorrow or so does any one have any suggestions on how i should do that as in should i just do it through his online quote tool or what? I'm assuming i should get it cut in .06" stainless steel unless anyone says otherwise.

1.5mm is the standard.

Don't forget to convert it to mm before uploading to BBS.

ya the file is in set to metric and bbs have materials listed in inches and .06 inches is 1.524mm so that seems to be the best choice

I've heard that the stock is 1.5mm exactly and they round to .6 inches but it's so stinking close it doesn't matter.

Hope it all works out for you; I'm going to be putting in an order with them too.

[KHAANNN]

By the way I perfected my costar stab integration with a 3d printed plate, without any modifications, after printing, I only graze the top/left/right side of the cutouts, leaving the bottom part as it is, my latest prototype had the best spacebar I've used, hope I can be this lucky with my final plates :)

Apart from the stabilisers, I think getting the plate closer to 1.6mm improves the switch rigidity, at 1.5mm the switch is able to wiggle a bit, I don't know after what point the switches will be unable to latch on, however I will probably try 1.6mm next

Overall there is an incredible grip with all components, once soldered, I think switches will require in-place destruction to be removed/replaced - which is what I want - hate wiggling/crooked/displaced switches/keycaps

[heedpantsnow]

By the way I perfected my costar stab integration with a 3d printed plate, without any modifications, after printing, I only graze the top/left/right side of the cutouts, leaving the bottom part as it is, my latest prototype had the best spacebar I've used, hope I can be this lucky with my final plates

Apart from the stabilisers, I think getting the plate closer to 1.6mm improves the switch rigidity, at 1.5mm the switch is able to wiggle a bit, I don't know after what point the switches will be unable to latch on, however I will probably try 1.6mm next

Overall there is an incredible grip with all components, once soldered, I think switches will require in-place destruction to be removed/replaced - which is what I want - hate wiggling/crooked/displaced switches/keycaps

Are you hand wiring or pcb?  I ask cause I would imagine that the pcb would stabilize the wiggling switches somewhat.

[KHAANNN]

By the way I perfected my costar stab integration with a 3d printed plate, without any modifications, after printing, I only graze the top/left/right side of the cutouts, leaving the bottom part as it is, my latest prototype had the best spacebar I've used, hope I can be this lucky with my final plates

Apart from the stabilisers, I think getting the plate closer to 1.6mm improves the switch rigidity, at 1.5mm the switch is able to wiggle a bit, I don't know after what point the switches will be unable to latch on, however I will probably try 1.6mm next

Overall there is an incredible grip with all components, once soldered, I think switches will require in-place destruction to be removed/replaced - which is what I want - hate wiggling/crooked/displaced switches/keycaps

Are you hand wiring or pcb?  I ask cause I would imagine that the pcb would stabilize the wiggling switches somewhat.

pcb, but it's still nice to have a plate that takes care of the initial placement

at this point I'm not sure whether I should cut off the PCB-mount feet of the switches, otherwise they are probably going to latch on like trees - and since the plate already does a great job at holding the switches, the pcb-mounts might make things harder with no gain

[KHAANNN]

Another piece of info, displacing the costar cutout 0.3mm higher (towards the usb-section) relaxes the assembly significantly, the insert is centered in the slider area, with gaps on both sides, however the resulting stabiliser experience might be too clumsy for some people (including me), a little bit of friction prevents the clumsiness of the costar stab by keeping the advantages of the stabiliser design - so I will probably try 0.15mm or 0.2mm next - mainly because it's challenging to make the default cutout work, it requires extensive sculpting - cutting the plastic away, removing imperfections - this 0.3mm displaced one doesn't require such treatment

[heedpantsnow]

Ponoko is offering a spend 50/get 50 deal. If you're wanting to make a bunch of polycarb or acrylic plates might be a good deal.

Also note that you can fit 2-3 plates on their "size 2" stock I believe.

[heedpantsnow]

Sorry I forgot here is the link:
http://blog.ponoko.com/2015/06/09/48310/

[jonlorusso]

When I attempt to create a plate with a 6u spacebar, the stabilizer holes appear directly adjacent to the switch hole.  Changing the size to 6.25u results in properly placed stabilizer mount holes.  Is this by design?  Is there something I can do so that I end up with properly placed stabilizers?

[swill]

When I attempt to create a plate with a 6u spacebar, the stabilizer holes appear directly adjacent to the switch hole.  Changing the size to 6.25u results in properly placed stabilizer mount holes.  Is this by design?  Is there something I can do so that I end up with properly placed stabilizers?

That is not normal.  I will look into that.  Thanks for reporting that...

[swill]

When I attempt to create a plate with a 6u spacebar, the stabilizer holes appear directly adjacent to the switch hole.  Changing the size to 6.25u results in properly placed stabilizer mount holes.  Is this by design?  Is there something I can do so that I end up with properly placed stabilizers?

That is not normal.  I will look into that.  Thanks for reporting that...

Ok, I lied.  That is the expected behavior because I don't have the 6u stabilizer configured.  Do you know what the stem center placement is for the 6u stab?

This is what I have configured right now:

Code: [Select]

        self.stabs = {
            "300":19.05, # 3 unit
            "400":28.575, # 4 unit
            "450":34.671, # 4.5 unit
            "550":42.8625, # 5.5 unit
            "625":50, # 6.25 unit
            "650":52.38, # 6.5 unit
            "700":57.15, # 7 unit
            "800":66.675, # 8 unit
            "900":66.675, # 9 unit
            "1000":66.675 # 10 unit
        }

Edit: The reason it behaves this way is because if you specify a key that is >=2u and it does not match any of the entries in the self.stabs object, then it will default to the 2u stabilizer cutout...

[VinnyCordeiro]

There is an entry on Deskthority's Wiki with all known spacebars dimensions: http://deskthority.net/wiki/Space_bar_dimensions

6× spacebars exists in 3 varieties, but IIRC the most common is the asymmetrical one.

6 units (114mm wide, 3 keymounts, 57mm and 38mm apart)

Three keymounts, one middle mount 0.5 units (9.525mm) right from centre, left 3 units (57.15mm) and right 2 units (38.1mm) apart from middle mount. The stabilizer center-to-center is 95mm.

mounts from left to right at

• 0.5 units
• 3.5 units
• 5.5 units

[Eszett]

Question, aren't the screw holes here abit too close to the rim? They are pretty standard 2mm screw holes.

[swill]

Question, aren't the screw holes here abit too close to the rim? They are pretty standard 2mm screw holes.
(Attachment Link)

You need to specify an X padding and Y padding when using the sandwich case.  The screw hole is placed in the middle of the X pad and Y pad.  Let me know if you have issues getting it to work.

[swill]

There is an entry on Deskthority's Wiki with all known spacebars dimensions: http://deskthority.net/wiki/Space_bar_dimensions

6× spacebars exists in 3 varieties, but IIRC the most common is the asymmetrical one.

6 units (114mm wide, 3 keymounts, 57mm and 38mm apart)

Three keymounts, one middle mount 0.5 units (9.525mm) right from centre, left 3 units (57.15mm) and right 2 units (38.1mm) apart from middle mount. The stabilizer center-to-center is 95mm.

mounts from left to right at

• 0.5 units
• 3.5 units
• 5.5 units

Yes, I used the details from the DT wiki post for all of my measurements.  I think the reason I didn't implement a 6u stabilizer is because I was not sure which to choose and I did not have the capability to do non-center stem or asymmetrical spacebar stabilizer cutouts.

I can revisit this issue, but I am not entirely sure how I am going to solve it just yet...

[swill]

I have a question for some of you guys who draw CAD manually.  Like jdcarpe and MOZ for example...

If you look at the Cherry MX spec (at the very bottom), you will see that the 2u stabilizer cutout is different than all of the spacebar (>=3u) stabilizer cutouts.  Namely, the channel between the stabilizer and the switch is larger for the 2u than the spacebar cutouts.  Is there a reason for this?  In my experience the Cherry Plate mount stabilizers could really use the extra support in using the smaller channel.

The reason I ask is because I am almost finished my complete rewrite of this tool and right now I am using the 'spacebar' style cutouts for all of the cutouts.  I can change this, but I personally thing it is probably better this way.  Thoughts...

Here are some SVG plates using the new tool (not final):

 switch_bc6ab2cb4a3ddb595e29cb382eafdcd825feb4ed.svg (16.83 kB - downloaded 162 times.)

 switch_6436fdc55e31d12ed64311669bfb6bbd682246dc.svg (24.38 kB - downloaded 178 times.)

[swill]

BTW, if you are using the current tool right now and you are having issues it is probably because I am doing a maintenance.  The service should still be available, but it is possible your draw calls will fail till I finish...  Sorry...

[Eszett]

Hi swill. Thanks, you were right, I added too less padding around the screw holes. Now (6mm padding width and 6mm padding height) it's fine.

Another question. When choosing the option "sandwhich", can you tell me how much height both middle plates have in "swill's plate builder"? I'm asking, because AFAIK the room inside the case between top and bottom plate, which is needed for switches, controller, etc. should be something around 12mm in height.

[scott_squires]

I wrote a similar tool: Keyboard CAD Assistant

It is all javascript on the browser side, so it is rather fast (basically instant... though I haven't tested it on a super slow computer). I posted a thread for it at https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=73418.0. I'll leave it at that, so as not to hijack swill's thread.

[shaymdev]

Another question. When choosing the option "sandwhich", can you tell me how much height both middle plates have in "swill's plate builder"? I'm asking, because AFAIK the room inside the case between top and bottom plate, which is needed for switches, controller, etc. should be something around 12mm in height.

I'm not sure about how the tool works but I know you can get away with a much thinner keyboard if you want to put in a little more effort. For example, if you have a 1.5mm switch plate you could have just 6mm of spacer. The method is described here:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70079.msg1692751.msg#1692751

[swill]

Hi swill. Thanks, you were right, I added too less padding around the screw holes. Now (6mm padding width and 6mm padding height) it's fine.

Another question. When choosing the option "sandwhich", can you tell me how much height both middle plates have in "swill's plate builder"? I'm asking, because AFAIK the room inside the case between top and bottom plate, which is needed for switches, controller, etc. should be something around 12mm in height.

I covered that a bit in this post: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=65189.msg1730476;topicseen#msg1730476

It depends on how you are wiring up your board and if you are putting the controller inside the case.

[swill]

I wrote a similar tool: Keyboard CAD Assistant

It is all javascript on the browser side, so it is rather fast (basically instant... though I haven't tested it on a super slow computer). I posted a thread for it at https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=73418.0. I'll leave it at that, so as not to hijack swill's thread.

Good to see another project like this.  I am about to launch a new builder which is also builds the cad files pretty much instantly. 

[Eszett]

@swill Thanks for support. (So these are the specs, I'm going for.)
   — sandwich build, without PCB, hand wired and Teensy 2.0
   — top plate material & thickness: 1,5mm brushed steel (ordered from geerscutting.com)
   — middle layers material & thickness: 2 x 7mm acryl
   — screw holes: 12 x 3mm
   — rounded corner radius: 3mm
   — padding: 6mm

[swill]

@swill Thanks for support. (So these are the specs, I'm going for.)
   — sandwich build, without PCB, hand wired and Teensy 2.0
   — top plate material & thickness: 1,5mm brushed steel (ordered from geerscutting.com)
   — middle layers material & thickness: 2 x 7mm acryl
   — screw holes: 12 x 3mm
   — rounded corner radius: 3mm
   — padding: 6mm

Looking good to me.  Post your build log if you do one. 

[swill]

BIG UPDATE!!! - builder.swillkb.com

I have just released a new version of the builder which is blazing fast!

This update is a complete rebuild of the tool from scratch.  I completely removed the CAD engine from under the hood and developed my own implementation.  I am now writing the export files directly from the core logic rather than handling the exporting of the drawing through a CAD engine.  This has given me a lot more control of what I put in the files and it is about 1000x faster than the old tool.  I have also simplified the deployment/update procedure making it much easier for me to implement features and deploy them.  I can also scale out horizontally without any hassle if the need arrises.

Now that I have released this complete rewrite, I am open to adding features again.  I didn't want to work on features in the old tool since it was going to be replaced, so I wanted to get this new tool out before addressing features.

If you have feature requests, now is the time to refresh my memory and get them in my queue.

Hope you all enjoy...

Let me know if you have any issues with the tool. 

[BigBlueSaw]

Great work, swill!