NOW OPEN SOURCE!!! swill's plate building tool [builder.swillkb.com]

[climbalima]

Thanks! That will make the process go much quicker!

[rampantandroid]

I quickly compared the output from your tool to a CAD drawing of a phantom plate - the main difference is that the CAD drawing had a wider cutout for the caps key (not for stabilizers, just wider.)

I compared by overlaying the output from your tool onto the CAD drawing and aligning it.

[climbalima]

I quickly compared the output from your tool to a CAD drawing of a phantom plate - the main difference is that the CAD drawing had a wider cutout for the caps key (not for stabilizers, just wider.)

I compared by overlaying the output from your tool onto the CAD drawing and aligning it.

Thats probably to support an offcenter caps lock.

[swill]

I quickly compared the output from your tool to a CAD drawing of a phantom plate - the main difference is that the CAD drawing had a wider cutout for the caps key (not for stabilizers, just wider.)

I compared by overlaying the output from your tool onto the CAD drawing and aligning it.

Is it the square cutout compared to my alps cutout? The cutouts are standard, so they can't be different. Which cutout did you use?

On second read, yes it would likely be the stepped caps lock support.

Third pass. I can show you how to do stepped caps lock support in my tool once I get to my computer later today.

[apaskal]

Hi!
Thank you Swill for a nice builder.
Please consider idea for sandwich case type.
Idea of additional top layer for keylayouts with missed keys. For example in HHKB layout it will be nice to have additional layer on top of switch layer.
Please look at images.

[skullydazed]

Hi!
Thank you Swill for a nice builder.
Please consider idea for sandwich case type.
Idea of additional top layer for keylayouts with missed keys. For example in HHKB layout it will be nice to have additional layer on top of switch layer.
Please look at images.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)

I have a feature like that in my fork of the legacy codebase. If you're not adverse to getting your hands dirty with Linux, FreeCAD, and Python you can grab that here:

https://github.com/skullydazed/kb_builder

[apaskal]

...skip...

I have a feature like that in my fork of the legacy codebase. If you're not adverse to getting your hands dirty with Linux, FreeCAD, and Python you can grab that here:

https://github.com/skullydazed/kb_builder

Nice! Thank you!

[apaskal]

Removed

[swill]

Hi!
Thank you Swill for a nice builder.
Please consider idea for sandwich case type.
Idea of additional top layer for keylayouts with missed keys. For example in HHKB layout it will be nice to have additional layer on top of switch layer.
Please look at images.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)

I have a feature like that in my fork of the legacy codebase. If you're not adverse to getting your hands dirty with Linux, FreeCAD, and Python you can grab that here:

https://github.com/skullydazed/kb_builder

Want to send a pull request?  I can add the feature to my legacy code.

I have had very limited time recently because RL is intense.

I just slept for 6 hours and I had an empty inbox when I went to bed. I now have 103 emails in my inbox. :/

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

[skullydazed]

Hi!
Thank you Swill for a nice builder.
Please consider idea for sandwich case type.
Idea of additional top layer for keylayouts with missed keys. For example in HHKB layout it will be nice to have additional layer on top of switch layer.
Please look at images.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)

I have a feature like that in my fork of the legacy codebase. If you're not adverse to getting your hands dirty with Linux, FreeCAD, and Python you can grab that here:

https://github.com/skullydazed/kb_builder

Want to send a pull request?  I can add the feature to my legacy code.

I have had very limited time recently because RL is intense.

I just slept for 6 hours and I had an empty inbox when I went to bed. I now have 103 emails in my inbox. :/

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

A pull request is on my todo list but right now that's... a bit difficult.

Code: [Select]

$ git diff upstream/master | wc -l
    2832

I've been reworking this code a lot trying to get it into a testable shape. Breaking things down into small self-contained functions, eliminating spaghetti code (and introducing a bit of new spaghetti code ), and generally trying to get it to the point where I can build some unit tests. This has also enabled adding more new features, like generated case feet.

Hopefully soon I'll have some of those tests going, and we can talk about the best way to merge all of this upstream.

[swill]

Hi!
Thank you Swill for a nice builder.
Please consider idea for sandwich case type.
Idea of additional top layer for keylayouts with missed keys. For example in HHKB layout it will be nice to have additional layer on top of switch layer.
Please look at images.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)

I have a feature like that in my fork of the legacy codebase. If you're not adverse to getting your hands dirty with Linux, FreeCAD, and Python you can grab that here:

https://github.com/skullydazed/kb_builder

Want to send a pull request?  I can add the feature to my legacy code.

I have had very limited time recently because RL is intense.

I just slept for 6 hours and I had an empty inbox when I went to bed. I now have 103 emails in my inbox. :/

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

A pull request is on my todo list but right now that's... a bit difficult.

Code: [Select]

$ git diff upstream/master | wc -l
    2832

I've been reworking this code a lot trying to get it into a testable shape. Breaking things down into small self-contained functions, eliminating spaghetti code (and introducing a bit of new spaghetti code ), and generally trying to get it to the point where I can build some unit tests. This has also enabled adding more new features, like generated case feet.

Hopefully soon I'll have some of those tests going, and we can talk about the best way to merge all of this upstream.

Coolio.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

[skullydazed]

OK, I'm not entirely ready to submit a pull request for all of this (I still have some work to do to make the web interface work again) but I'm pretty happy to see this:

Code: [Select]

Ran 5 tests in 31.446s

OK
---------- coverage: platform linux2, python 2.7.6-final-0 -----------
Name                                           Stmts   Miss  Cover
------------------------------------------------------------------
src/kb_builder/__init__.py                         0      0   100%
src/kb_builder/builder.py                        590     85    86%
src/kb_builder/test_all_features_poker.py         19      0   100%
src/kb_builder/test_all_features_sandwich.py      28      0   100%
src/kb_builder/test_all_shapes.py                 17      0   100%
src/kb_builder/test_bevel.py                      20      0   100%
src/kb_builder/test_numpad.py                     18      0   100%
------------------------------------------------------------------
TOTAL                                            692     85    88%
Coverage HTML written to dir htmlcov
Coverage XML written to file coverage.xml

Besides the under the hood changes there are a lot of features I've added over time.

• Specify keyboard properties (corners, padding, case type, etc) in a dictionary with the layout.
• Support for angled USB cutouts
• Support for offsetting the USB cutout
• Support for placing the USB cutout on any layer
• Support for drawing feet within the open/closed layers, and corresponding foot holes on the bottom layer.
• Support for adding arbitrary holes and/or polygons to any layer
• Support for "oversize" layers, which are bigger but have screw holes in the same location as smaller layers

Most of these features are activated by kb_cli flags, or by including a dictionary as the first entry in your layout. Here's an example of what that dictionary might look like:

Code: [Select]

{
    'name': 'example_keyboard',
    'case': {
        'type': 'sandwich',
        'screw_count': 8,
        'screw_size': 2,
    }
    'corner_type': 'round',
    'corner_radius': 4,
    "feet": [
        [25,25],
        [50,25]
    ]
    'kerf': 0.1,
    'layers': {
        'bottom': {
            'holes': [
                [5,5,2]
            ],
            'polygons: [
                [[1,1], [-1,1], [-1,-1], [-1,1], [1,1]]
            ],
            'include_foot_holes': True,
        },
        'open': {
            'draw_feet': True,
            'oversize': 3,
        },
        'reinforcing': {},
        'switch': {},
        'top': {}
    }
}

This will generate plates for bottom, open, reinforcing, switch, and top with holes cut for a sandwich case. The bottom plate will have holes that accept feet that will be drawn inside the open layer. The open layer will be 3mm bigger than the other layers, but it'll all still screw together.

Swill, please take a look over my tree at your convenience. I'm not in any hurry to get this merged, and you seem pretty busy right now. If you want to port any of these features back to your golang implementation but aren't sure about some of the choices I've made (or even if some of my choices make you hesitate to accept a pull request for the legacy codebase) we can talk about doing those in a way that's more to your liking. I think setting these keyboard properties as part of the layout is pretty handy, and would like to finalize that format (and maybe even talk to KLE about adding support for those dict keys to their tool.)

For anyone else still reading, I could use some testing. The kb_cli works for my use cases, but I can't begin to imagine all the creative ways other people may use it. If you're handy enough to use the CLI and already have (or can setup) the legacy codebase, please grab my copy here and give it a whirl:

https://github.com/skullydazed/kb_builder

I know with all the hacking I did this weekend I probably broke something, so let me know what problems you encounter.

[phoible]

I'm trying to generate a layout for a 60% AEKII plate. I entered 6.5 for the spacebar width, and chose ALPS stabilizers (I also tried manually setting _s:4). It still seems to be drawing costar stabilizers for the spacebar.

Any thoughts or suggestions on how to get this working?

[swill]

I'm trying to generate a layout for a 60% AEKII plate. I entered 6.5 for the spacebar width, and chose ALPS stabilizers (I also tried manually setting _s:4). It still seems to be drawing costar stabilizers for the spacebar.

Any thoughts or suggestions on how to get this working?

Sorry, I need to get 6.5u spacebars added.  I have had conflicting reports on the sizes and I didn't have a chance to try to get measurements from a bunch of people yet to try to get some consensus.  If you happen to be able to measure one, I would happily add it to the list of measurements I have been given.    I need to review this and get something pushed, even if it is not perfect...

[nathanrosspowell]

I ran into a problem with the BigBlueSaw quote feature.

Loading up the DFX file tells me that by plate is 285.750 x 119.062 inches!

Here's my source:

Code: [Select]

[{c:"#333430",t:"#ff6800",a:5},"GEEK\nHACK",{x:0.25,c:"#5f5c52",a:7,f:4},"F1","F2","F3","F4",{x:0.25,c:"#333430"},"F5","F6","F7","F8",{x:0.25,c:"#5f5c52"},"F9","F10","F11","F12",{x:0.25,c:"#333430"},"Pause"],
[{y:0.25,f:3},"ESC",{c:"#5f5c52",a:5,f:5},"!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=","|\n\\",{f:3},"~\n`"],
[{c:"#333430",a:7,w:1.5},"TAB",{c:"#5f5c52",f:9},"Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O",{f:8},"P",{a:5,f:4},"{\n[","}\n]",{c:"#333430",a:7,f:9,w:1.5},"←"],
[{f:3,w:1.25,w2:1.75},"CTRL",{x:0.5,c:"#5f5c52",f:9},"A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",{a:5,f:6},":\n;","\"\n'",{c:"#333430",a:7,f:3,w:2.25},"ENTER"],
[{w:2.25},"SHIFT",{c:"#5f5c52",f:9},"Z","X","C","V","B","N","M",{a:5,f:8},"<\n,",">\n.",{f:6},"?\n/",{c:"#333430",a:7,f:3,w:1.75},"SHIFT","FN"],
[{x:1.5},"WIN",{w:1.5},"ALT",{c:"#5f5c52",w:7},"",{c:"#333430",w:1.5},"ALT","WIN"]


[jdcarpe]

I ran into a problem with the BigBlueSaw quote feature.

Loading up the DFX file tells me that by plate is 285.750 x 119.062 inches!

Here's my source:

Code: [Select]

[{c:"#333430",t:"#ff6800",a:5},"GEEK\nHACK",{x:0.25,c:"#5f5c52",a:7,f:4},"F1","F2","F3","F4",{x:0.25,c:"#333430"},"F5","F6","F7","F8",{x:0.25,c:"#5f5c52"},"F9","F10","F11","F12",{x:0.25,c:"#333430"},"Pause"],
[{y:0.25,f:3},"ESC",{c:"#5f5c52",a:5,f:5},"!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=","|\n\\",{f:3},"~\n`"],
[{c:"#333430",a:7,w:1.5},"TAB",{c:"#5f5c52",f:9},"Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O",{f:8},"P",{a:5,f:4},"{\n[","}\n]",{c:"#333430",a:7,f:9,w:1.5},"←"],
[{f:3,w:1.25,w2:1.75},"CTRL",{x:0.5,c:"#5f5c52",f:9},"A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",{a:5,f:6},":\n;","\"\n'",{c:"#333430",a:7,f:3,w:2.25},"ENTER"],
[{w:2.25},"SHIFT",{c:"#5f5c52",f:9},"Z","X","C","V","B","N","M",{a:5,f:8},"<\n,",">\n.",{f:6},"?\n/",{c:"#333430",a:7,f:3,w:1.75},"SHIFT","FN"],
[{x:1.5},"WIN",{w:1.5},"ALT",{c:"#5f5c52",w:7},"",{c:"#333430",w:1.5},"ALT","WIN"]


Those are mm, not inches. You have to convert the DXF to have mm as units before sending to BBS.

[nathanrosspowell]

I ran into a problem with the BigBlueSaw quote feature.

Loading up the DFX file tells me that by plate is 285.750 x 119.062 inches!

Here's my source:

Code: [Select]

[{c:"#333430",t:"#ff6800",a:5},"GEEK\nHACK",{x:0.25,c:"#5f5c52",a:7,f:4},"F1","F2","F3","F4",{x:0.25,c:"#333430"},"F5","F6","F7","F8",{x:0.25,c:"#5f5c52"},"F9","F10","F11","F12",{x:0.25,c:"#333430"},"Pause"],
[{y:0.25,f:3},"ESC",{c:"#5f5c52",a:5,f:5},"!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=","|\n\\",{f:3},"~\n`"],
[{c:"#333430",a:7,w:1.5},"TAB",{c:"#5f5c52",f:9},"Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O",{f:8},"P",{a:5,f:4},"{\n[","}\n]",{c:"#333430",a:7,f:9,w:1.5},"←"],
[{f:3,w:1.25,w2:1.75},"CTRL",{x:0.5,c:"#5f5c52",f:9},"A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",{a:5,f:6},":\n;","\"\n'",{c:"#333430",a:7,f:3,w:2.25},"ENTER"],
[{w:2.25},"SHIFT",{c:"#5f5c52",f:9},"Z","X","C","V","B","N","M",{a:5,f:8},"<\n,",">\n.",{f:6},"?\n/",{c:"#333430",a:7,f:3,w:1.75},"SHIFT","FN"],
[{x:1.5},"WIN",{w:1.5},"ALT",{c:"#5f5c52",w:7},"",{c:"#333430",w:1.5},"ALT","WIN"]


Those are mm, not inches. You have to convert the DXF to have mm as units before sending to BBS.

Thanks, JD, that makes sense 

[swill]

I ran into a problem with the BigBlueSaw quote feature.

Loading up the DFX file tells me that by plate is 285.750 x 119.062 inches!

Here's my source:

Code: [Select]

[{c:"#333430",t:"#ff6800",a:5},"GEEK\nHACK",{x:0.25,c:"#5f5c52",a:7,f:4},"F1","F2","F3","F4",{x:0.25,c:"#333430"},"F5","F6","F7","F8",{x:0.25,c:"#5f5c52"},"F9","F10","F11","F12",{x:0.25,c:"#333430"},"Pause"],
[{y:0.25,f:3},"ESC",{c:"#5f5c52",a:5,f:5},"!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=","|\n\\",{f:3},"~\n`"],
[{c:"#333430",a:7,w:1.5},"TAB",{c:"#5f5c52",f:9},"Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O",{f:8},"P",{a:5,f:4},"{\n[","}\n]",{c:"#333430",a:7,f:9,w:1.5},"←"],
[{f:3,w:1.25,w2:1.75},"CTRL",{x:0.5,c:"#5f5c52",f:9},"A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",{a:5,f:6},":\n;","\"\n'",{c:"#333430",a:7,f:3,w:2.25},"ENTER"],
[{w:2.25},"SHIFT",{c:"#5f5c52",f:9},"Z","X","C","V","B","N","M",{a:5,f:8},"<\n,",">\n.",{f:6},"?\n/",{c:"#333430",a:7,f:3,w:1.75},"SHIFT","FN"],
[{x:1.5},"WIN",{w:1.5},"ALT",{c:"#5f5c52",w:7},"",{c:"#333430",w:1.5},"ALT","WIN"]


Those are mm, not inches. You have to convert the DXF to have mm as units before sending to BBS.

Thanks, JD, that makes sense 

BBS has a single click function to do this for you BTW.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

[nathanrosspowell]

I ran into a problem with the BigBlueSaw quote feature.

Loading up the DFX file tells me that by plate is 285.750 x 119.062 inches!

Here's my source:

Code: [Select]

[{c:"#333430",t:"#ff6800",a:5},"GEEK\nHACK",{x:0.25,c:"#5f5c52",a:7,f:4},"F1","F2","F3","F4",{x:0.25,c:"#333430"},"F5","F6","F7","F8",{x:0.25,c:"#5f5c52"},"F9","F10","F11","F12",{x:0.25,c:"#333430"},"Pause"],
[{y:0.25,f:3},"ESC",{c:"#5f5c52",a:5,f:5},"!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=","|\n\\",{f:3},"~\n`"],
[{c:"#333430",a:7,w:1.5},"TAB",{c:"#5f5c52",f:9},"Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O",{f:8},"P",{a:5,f:4},"{\n[","}\n]",{c:"#333430",a:7,f:9,w:1.5},"←"],
[{f:3,w:1.25,w2:1.75},"CTRL",{x:0.5,c:"#5f5c52",f:9},"A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",{a:5,f:6},":\n;","\"\n'",{c:"#333430",a:7,f:3,w:2.25},"ENTER"],
[{w:2.25},"SHIFT",{c:"#5f5c52",f:9},"Z","X","C","V","B","N","M",{a:5,f:8},"<\n,",">\n.",{f:6},"?\n/",{c:"#333430",a:7,f:3,w:1.75},"SHIFT","FN"],
[{x:1.5},"WIN",{w:1.5},"ALT",{c:"#5f5c52",w:7},"",{c:"#333430",w:1.5},"ALT","WIN"]


Those are mm, not inches. You have to convert the DXF to have mm as units before sending to BBS.

Thanks, JD, that makes sense 

BBS has a single click function to do this for you BTW.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

Yep, I saw it  I was just worried I did something majorly wrong as I'm a noob when it comes to all of this. Cheers!

[Eszett]

Hi guys. I'm abit in trouble mounting Cherry plate mount stabs, the stabs doesn't fit into the cutouts, can you give me a clue? Here is the situation:

[rampantandroid]

Isn't kerf meant to correct some of this?

[Eszett]

@rampantandroid If I'm not wrong, then (uncorrected) Kerf has the consequence that the laser produces larger cutouts, not smaller ones?

[KHAANNN]

I've never had a good experience with Cherry stabs to date, you always have to cram them in place, so that 1mm discrepancy sounds about right, the plastic should wear in a bit

(To clarify, this is not a helpful comment, just pointing out that you are not alone)

As a helpful pointer tho, you can always work those stabs/stab-cutouts after production, if they are not steel, just sand them until you are satisfied

[Eszett]

KAAAN, good point. Yes I already thought about sanding/filing them, but I wasnt sure if I was too stupid to figure out how to install them.

update: I've just used a nail file and files like 1mm away, now they fit! Half I'm happy, half I'm cursing against Cherry 

[KHAANNN]

KAAAN, good point. Yes I already thought about sanding/filing them, but I wasnt sure if I was too stupid to figure out how to install them.

update: I've just used a nail file and files like 1mm away, now they fit! Half I'm happy, half I'm cursing against Cherry 

If it works, great!

With all stabs, you have to fine tune them to your liking, both Cherry and Costar, they benefit significantly from modifications

As a small suggestion, a bit snugness might be good too, once or twice I went ahead and carved out too much and regretted later on, tho in the end, it doesn't matter if the construct is slightly loose, as the stabs themselves are far looser

[BillyBuerger]

I recently used swill's plate builder and noticed a similar issue with stabs.  I didn't apply any kerf and both Cherry and Alps switches fit very nicely.  Maybe just a tad loose if anything.  But both Cherry and Costar stabs go in very tight.  I was playing around with some small pieces and while I got them it, it caused the overall mounting holes for the switches to stretch so that the switches are loose.  As was mentioned, it should be easy to file it just a little to fix the tightness.  But given that the switches don't seem to have the same issue, maybe the stab holes need to be adjusted slightly?

Either way, swill's tool is awesome and made this process much easier then me guessing on my drawings and wasting money figuring it out myself.

[Eszett]

I recently used swill's plate builder and noticed a similar issue with stabs.  I didn't apply any kerf and both Cherry and Alps switches fit very nicely.  Maybe just a tad loose if anything. But both Cherry and Costar stabs go in very tight.  I was playing around with some small pieces and while I got them it, it caused the overall mounting holes for the switches to stretch so that the switches are loose.  As was mentioned, it should be easy to file it just a little to fix the tightness.  But given that the switches don't seem to have the same issue, maybe the stab holes need to be adjusted slightly?

Same here. I've added no "Anti-Kerf" and switches fit the cutouts alright, maybe a tad loose, no issue though. But stabs were impossible for me to insert. Let's suggest a little correction in the dimensions for the Cherry stab cutouts. What do you think, swill?

[evangs]

I've had the same issue with recent plates, had to file down the sides of my costar stabs to get them to fit in the plate cutouts


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[swill]

I recently used swill's plate builder and noticed a similar issue with stabs.  I didn't apply any kerf and both Cherry and Alps switches fit very nicely.  Maybe just a tad loose if anything. But both Cherry and Costar stabs go in very tight.  I was playing around with some small pieces and while I got them it, it caused the overall mounting holes for the switches to stretch so that the switches are loose.  As was mentioned, it should be easy to file it just a little to fix the tightness.  But given that the switches don't seem to have the same issue, maybe the stab holes need to be adjusted slightly?

Same here. I've added no "Anti-Kerf" and switches fit the cutouts alright, maybe a tad loose, no issue though. But stabs were impossible for me to insert. Let's suggest a little correction in the dimensions for the Cherry stab cutouts. What do you think, swill?

Can you highlight which sides of the stab cutouts need a bit more space? I doubt it is all dimensions. Is it the width, height or what that is tight?

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

[evangs]

I recently used swill's plate builder and noticed a similar issue with stabs.  I didn't apply any kerf and both Cherry and Alps switches fit very nicely.  Maybe just a tad loose if anything. But both Cherry and Costar stabs go in very tight.  I was playing around with some small pieces and while I got them it, it caused the overall mounting holes for the switches to stretch so that the switches are loose.  As was mentioned, it should be easy to file it just a little to fix the tightness.  But given that the switches don't seem to have the same issue, maybe the stab holes need to be adjusted slightly?

Same here. I've added no "Anti-Kerf" and switches fit the cutouts alright, maybe a tad loose, no issue though. But stabs were impossible for me to insert. Let's suggest a little correction in the dimensions for the Cherry stab cutouts. What do you think, swill?

Can you highlight which sides of the stab cutouts need a bit more space? I doubt it is all dimensions. Is it the width, height or what that is tight?

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For me it was the width. The height seemed fine


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[swill]

I recently used swill's plate builder and noticed a similar issue with stabs.  I didn't apply any kerf and both Cherry and Alps switches fit very nicely.  Maybe just a tad loose if anything. But both Cherry and Costar stabs go in very tight.  I was playing around with some small pieces and while I got them it, it caused the overall mounting holes for the switches to stretch so that the switches are loose.  As was mentioned, it should be easy to file it just a little to fix the tightness.  But given that the switches don't seem to have the same issue, maybe the stab holes need to be adjusted slightly?

Same here. I've added no "Anti-Kerf" and switches fit the cutouts alright, maybe a tad loose, no issue though. But stabs were impossible for me to insert. Let's suggest a little correction in the dimensions for the Cherry stab cutouts. What do you think, swill?

Can you highlight which sides of the stab cutouts need a bit more space? I doubt it is all dimensions. Is it the width, height or what that is tight?

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For me it was the width. The height seemed fine


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And you are using costar?  I think people are also saying cherry variations are tight too.

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[evangs]

I recently used swill's plate builder and noticed a similar issue with stabs.  I didn't apply any kerf and both Cherry and Alps switches fit very nicely.  Maybe just a tad loose if anything. But both Cherry and Costar stabs go in very tight.  I was playing around with some small pieces and while I got them it, it caused the overall mounting holes for the switches to stretch so that the switches are loose.  As was mentioned, it should be easy to file it just a little to fix the tightness.  But given that the switches don't seem to have the same issue, maybe the stab holes need to be adjusted slightly?

Same here. I've added no "Anti-Kerf" and switches fit the cutouts alright, maybe a tad loose, no issue though. But stabs were impossible for me to insert. Let's suggest a little correction in the dimensions for the Cherry stab cutouts. What do you think, swill?

Can you highlight which sides of the stab cutouts need a bit more space? I doubt it is all dimensions. Is it the width, height or what that is tight?

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For me it was the width. The height seemed fine


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And you are using costar?  I think people are also saying cherry variations are tight too.

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Yea, I used costar only on he played in question


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[swill]

I recently used swill's plate builder and noticed a similar issue with stabs.  I didn't apply any kerf and both Cherry and Alps switches fit very nicely.  Maybe just a tad loose if anything. But both Cherry and Costar stabs go in very tight.  I was playing around with some small pieces and while I got them it, it caused the overall mounting holes for the switches to stretch so that the switches are loose.  As was mentioned, it should be easy to file it just a little to fix the tightness.  But given that the switches don't seem to have the same issue, maybe the stab holes need to be adjusted slightly?

Same here. I've added no "Anti-Kerf" and switches fit the cutouts alright, maybe a tad loose, no issue though. But stabs were impossible for me to insert. Let's suggest a little correction in the dimensions for the Cherry stab cutouts. What do you think, swill?

Can you highlight which sides of the stab cutouts need a bit more space? I doubt it is all dimensions. Is it the width, height or what that is tight?

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

For me it was the width. The height seemed fine


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And you are using costar?  I think people are also saying cherry variations are tight too.

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Yea, I used costar only on he played in question


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OK. So make costar a bit wider. I will let the cherry people weigh in too. Thx.

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[evangs]

Awesome, thanks for quick feedback!


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[Eszett]

swill, I gonna post you a proposal with illustration and exact dimensions soon, have to leave the house now.

[swill]

swill, I gonna post you a proposal with illustration and exact dimensions soon, have to leave the house now.

No problem. Keep in mind that very small changes show up as bigger changes once they get cut. I have a bronze plate cut with this tool with cherry stabs, they are tight but usable. I will use it and your experience to help guide the change in dimensions. Thx guys. 

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[Eszett]

Here is my proposal. It would be reasonable to test and affirm this theory, before changing the hardwired settings of swill's plate builder ... What do you think, guys?

[kiwi99]

I'll chime in since I've used the tool a lot and say the costar cutouts (not the costar+cherry ones) were fine, my alps stab holes though were a little narrow for sure and could use just even .25 on each side since I ended up having to shave my stabs down a little bit to fit. This being said my experience is with a waterjet doing these cuts and might just be the machines precision was the issue.

Also, swill have you ever considered adding an option for corner cuts for CNCs? pictures for clarification on what I mean.

[Charger]

I'll chime in since I've used the tool a lot and say the costar cutouts (not the costar+cherry ones) were fine, my alps stab holes though were a little narrow for sure and could use just even .25 on each side since I ended up having to shave my stabs down a little bit to fit. This being said my experience is with a waterjet doing these cuts and might just be the machines precision was the issue.

Also, swill have you ever considered adding an option for corner cuts for CNCs? pictures for clarification on what I mean.

Show Image

Show Image

I noticed most cutouts were a bit tight when I had my plates water jet cut but I guess that was to be expected a bit.

oh I would love for this to be added as well.

[BillyBuerger]

Okay, I checked on it again.  Looks like I was wrong about costar.  They go in tight but the switch seems to fit the same with our without them.  But cherry definitely stretches things.  I don't think I can easily measure how much needs to be adjusted.  I filed down on the top side a little bit and now they go in easier and the switch isn't quite as loose.  I would agree with Eszett's drawing.  Since things are a little loose in the switch, it probably wouldn't matter if I took a little off the top or bottom.  But since the stabs are already lower then the switch, I would tend to want to file off the top and shift the side bits up with it.

Here's a picture of my pieces I had cut out and where I filed.  I had them cut by BigBlueSaw out of Acrylic.

[Eszett]

Jeez, I was mistaken! Beeing stupid trying to insert the stabs from below ... Just figured you can really insert the Cherry plate mount stabs from above, and by this way, its cutout has not to be enlarged by one extra millimeter. Neither do you have to sand the stabs!

[swill]

Jeez, I was mistaken! Beeing stupid trying to insert the stabs from below ... Just figured you can really insert the Cherry plate mount stabs from above, and by this way, its cutout has not to be enlarged by one extra millimeter. Neither do you have to sand the stabs!
(Attachment Link)

If I read this correctly, the cutouts work when inserted this way?

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[swill]

Okay, I checked on it again.  Looks like I was wrong about costar.  They go in tight but the switch seems to fit the same with our without them.  But cherry definitely stretches things.  I don't think I can easily measure how much needs to be adjusted.  I filed down on the top side a little bit and now they go in easier and the switch isn't quite as loose.  I would agree with Eszett's drawing.  Since things are a little loose in the switch, it probably wouldn't matter if I took a little off the top or bottom.  But since the stabs are already lower then the switch, I would tend to want to file off the top and shift the side bits up with it.

Here's a picture of my pieces I had cut out and where I filed.  I had them cut by BigBlueSaw out of Acrylic.
(Attachment Link)

I can potentially add a little space. You are saying it is only the top that needs some space?

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[swill]

I'll chime in since I've used the tool a lot and say the costar cutouts (not the costar+cherry ones) were fine, my alps stab holes though were a little narrow for sure and could use just even .25 on each side since I ended up having to shave my stabs down a little bit to fit. This being said my experience is with a waterjet doing these cuts and might just be the machines precision was the issue.

Also, swill have you ever considered adding an option for corner cuts for CNCs? pictures for clarification on what I mean.

Show Image

Show Image

I can widen the alps stab cutouts a bit. Thanks.

Yes. I am hoping to add the dog bone as an optional modification to cutouts. It would be on a limited set of cutouts though because I have no interest in trying to figure out how to make a cherry stabilizer cutout with a dynamic sized cnc bit.

I have been very busy recently, so it will likely take me a little while to get all these changes in. As many of you may have noticed, I have not been very active on GH recently.  I have been working 12 hour days as the release manager for apache cloudstack, so my time is pretty limited.




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[Eszett]

If I read this correctly, the cutouts work when inserted this way?

Yes. The cutouts the plate builder creates are fine, as long as you insert the stabs from above the plate. I didn't know you have to insert them from above the plate. So, no need to change the dimensions.

[swill]

If I read this correctly, the cutouts work when inserted this way?

Yes. The cutouts the plate builder creates are fine, as long as you insert the stabs from above the plate. I didn't know you have to insert them from above the plate. So, no need to change the dimensions.

I did find them tight (but worked) with the cherry cutout as they are. I will review if it makes sense to modify the dimensions at all with my plate.

Thanks for the support everyone.

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[Eszett]

Sure. Long live the plate builder! 

[BillyBuerger]

I can potentially add a little space. You are saying it is only the top that needs some space?

Part of my problem might just be that I'm using such small pieces with a thin acrylic.  The size might be fine on something more normal sized.  If Eszett is fine with the size as is, then I'm fine.  We'll see when I actually do a real backplate if I have any issues.

One other thing I've been meaning to bring up also related to the cherry stabs is using them with Alps switches.  Alps switches clip on the sides.  With the cherry stabs as they are right now, the sides are pretty much gone.  So the Alps switches (Matais) drop through pretty easily.  It seems like there should/could be more border around the switch.  I found this picture where someone has Cherry/Alps switch mounting and Cherry/Costar stabs that have the extra bit I'm talking about...



Personally, I'm playing around with some Planck style layouts so almost everything is 1U anyways.  And even the couple of 2U I'll probably do without stabs so it's not a big deal.  Maybe most people using Alps are also using Costar which doesn't have this issue.  Costars are easier from a plate perspective.  And if you are doing this in something cheaper like acrylic, I'm not sure if the thin sides will hold up very well anyways.  What do you think?

[swill]

I can potentially add a little space. You are saying it is only the top that needs some space?

Part of my problem might just be that I'm using such small pieces with a thin acrylic.  The size might be fine on something more normal sized.  If Eszett is fine with the size as is, then I'm fine.  We'll see when I actually do a real backplate if I have any issues.

One other thing I've been meaning to bring up also related to the cherry stabs is using them with Alps switches.  Alps switches clip on the sides.  With the cherry stabs as they are right now, the sides are pretty much gone.  So the Alps switches (Matais) drop through pretty easily.  It seems like there should/could be more border around the switch.  I found this picture where someone has Cherry/Alps switch mounting and Cherry/Costar stabs that have the extra bit I'm talking about...

Show Image

Personally, I'm playing around with some Planck style layouts so almost everything is 1U anyways.  And even the couple of 2U I'll probably do without stabs so it's not a big deal.  Maybe most people using Alps are also using Costar which doesn't have this issue.  Costars are easier from a plate perspective.  And if you are doing this in something cheaper like acrylic, I'm not sure if the thin sides will hold up very well anyways.  What do you think?

I built my cherry cutouts to spec, which is why that piece is missing. I was considering doing exactly what you show in that picture, but I chickened out because I didn't know if I would be messing up anything else. In my experience I think what you show in your picture is actually better for the stabilizer anyway because then it can't twist when you insert it (since the cutout is quite tight).

I will probably do that because I think it is better and it will also fix the use case you just described.

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[joey]

Anyone got any idea what the kerf should be for an acrylic laser cut? (From somewhere like ponoko)