geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: ShangWang on Sat, 20 May 2023, 16:02:36
-
I'm from Canada and I have the HyperX Alloy Origins with Tactile Aqua Switches. I believe they are plate mounted.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0B3YCJB1B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm trying to desolder and then solder back on the switches and stabilizers to lube the them for the first time and wanted to put my step-by-step process in how I'm going to do this before attempting it. I would appreciate if anyone can point out any errors, give tips, or answer the confusions I have with doing this. My main concern is with desoldering and soldering, but I would also like any tips possible for the lubricating and modding I'm going to do after.
These are the materials I bought:
Soldering/Desoldering Kit:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09NY538F2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lubing:
Paint brushes (mainly for 0 and 1 size): https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07GH7WGC3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
G-lube: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08DKDMJD9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Dielectric grease: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000AL2RI2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Modding:
Neoprene 1/8" Foam: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08DNHX992/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fabric bandages: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003M5LC34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
What the PCB supposedly looks like: https://imgur.com/a/H3iu7oK
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
The main concern I have is the fact that the LEDs are supposed to be desoldered as well with the switches in order to remove the switch. Is this necessary, or can I keep them there? If I do desolder the LEDs, is it as easy to put them back on as the switches, or does it get complicated from there? Do they have pins like the switch does?
Video:
Steps I'm taking:
1. Put on vinyl gloves, unscrew the keyboard and open it up (I'm not sure if using gloves is recommended for one session, is it better to use your bare hands? I only have vinyl gloves.)
2. Get the soldering kit ready, heat up soldering iron to about 380 degrees Celsius (Should I be going at a hotter or cooler temperature for the first time? Is there an optimal temperature range?)
3. With a toothpick, place a very small amount of flux on the pin that is to be desoldered. (This is probably not necessary, but the kit I bought does include flux so I thought a small amount couldn't hurt)
4. With the pump ready, put the soldering iron on the pin and pad at the same time, and with the pump close to the pin, as soon as you remove the iron release the pump on the solder leaving a very small gap of air to suck up the solder. Do the same for the LEDs that are soldered. (I'm guessing the LEDs have pins as well?)
5. After 5 or so switches, let the iron cool down and clean it using a damp sponge. (I'm not sure how frequent you should clean the iron or how cool the iron should be before cleaning it. Do you also clean it for soldering as well? For which process should you be cleaning it more frequently?
6. Once all of the switches are desoldered as well as the stabilizers, lube them with the G-lube and a size 0 paint brush. For the stabilizers apply a bit of dielectric grease. Would G-lube be a better choice for lubing the stabilizers, or dielectric grease? I think the grease is thicker, but I don't know if it really matters what I use.
7. When finished, solder back on the switches, LEDs, and stabilizers with the iron at around 360 degrees Celsius.
8. With a toothpick like in step 3, put a small amount before putting the iron on the pin and pad at the same time and slowly adding solder until the gold ring around the pin is covered by solder. Making sure the pin is still visible and the solder stays there for about 2 seconds maximum before letting it cool. For the LEDs, individually solder the 4 spots. Clean the iron in-between desoldering as required like in step 5. (I'm not sure if it's necessary to let the iron stay on the pin and pad for about 2 seconds before letting it cool, maybe it helps the form shape?
9. When all the parts are soldered, cut one 1/8" thick roll of neoprene foam to correct size on the base of the keyboard. Place the band aids under each of the spots where the stabilizers should be.
10. Assemble the keyboard and put the screws back.
This is my plan so far, haven't started yet but I'd greatly appreciate any feedback that can be given!
-
I would not even try to desolder this board. Those RGB leds are going to be a pain in the ass. From what i can tell in order to remove the switch you will also need to desolder the leds. No fun times even for a experienced guy
-
I would not even try to desolder this board. Those RGB leds are going to be a pain in the ass. From what i can tell in order to remove the switch you will also need to desolder the leds. No fun times even for a experienced guy
I see, it would definitely take a lot longer than usual to go through the process. The main reason for trying to finally mod my keyboard is because my w key for some reason has some kind of bad spring or tactile feel to it, it doesn't compress or decompress smoothly at certain angles.
I'm not really planning on getting a custom keyboard anytime soon, so I was hoping this keyboard would work out but of course being made from the factory it was prone to have some issues without proper lubrication, so I wanted to look into soldering to fix it.
-
I would not even try to desolder this board. Those RGB leds are going to be a pain in the ass. From what i can tell in order to remove the switch you will also need to desolder the leds. No fun times even for a experienced guy
Do you also know if the desoldering/soldering process for LEDs is the same process as the switch pins? Do the LEDs have some kind of pin or protrusion for you to touch with the iron and the pad, or is it not like that?
-
I would not even try to desolder this board. Those RGB leds are going to be a pain in the ass. From what i can tell in order to remove the switch you will also need to desolder the leds. No fun times even for a experienced guy
Do you also know if the desoldering/soldering process for LEDs is the same process as the switch pins? Do the LEDs have some kind of pin or protrusion for you to touch with the iron and the pad, or is it not like that?
My advice is just don't do it. If it was SMD RGB then it was just the switches then mod away, but trust me you don't want to mess with those LEDs. Unless you want a board that has broken RGB.
-
My advice is just don't do it. If it was SMD RGB then it was just the switches then mod away, but trust me you don't want to mess with those LEDs. Unless you want a board that has broken RGB.
I see, I think at the very least I'll try getting some soldering experience with some beginner kits like this one: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0BFHGK7JQ/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_slice_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The joints are relatively small and close to each other like the LED lights, if I feel comfortable and confident with this kit maybe I might give it a go if I don't make many mistakes.
-
My advice is just don't do it. If it was SMD RGB then it was just the switches then mod away, but trust me you don't want to mess with those LEDs. Unless you want a board that has broken RGB.
If I'm going to proceed with the process, the solder wire I plan to use from the kit is 60/40 with 2.0% flux, would this be sufficient for desoldering and soldering the switches and LEDs?
I think it's fine to just use the wire for soldering, but I don't know if it's highly recommended to have flux for the desoldering process. Would a syringe or pen be better if so?
-
I've also tried to desolder my Alloy Origins, and yeah, it kinda sucks.
From my experience, the solder joints on the PCB are pretty garbage for desoldering, so I added some solder to the joints before using the desoldering pump. I soldered / desoldered the LEDs with the same approach as the switch pins, but I guess I got lucky because I didn't break anything. But honestly, if you're careful enough, then you should be fine. :thumb:
-
I've also tried to desolder my Alloy Origins, and yeah, it kinda sucks.
From my experience, the solder joints on the PCB are pretty garbage for desoldering, so I added some solder to the joints before using the desoldering pump. I soldered / desoldered the LEDs with the same approach as the switch pins, but I guess I got lucky because I didn't break anything. But honestly, if you're careful enough, then you should be fine. :thumb:
I see, thanks for the advice! I don't have any desoldering/soldering experience, so do you actually recommend I add more solder to the switch pin joints including the LED pins before sucking it all up with the pump? Do you have to individually suck up the solder/solder the LED pins?
Or should I just try to desolder normally? What makes a bad solder joint to desolder, is there just not enough solder to easily suck it up, or is it something else? Do you recommend using a flux pen or syringe before desoldering?
To add more solder before desoldering/sucking up the solder, do I just do what you normally do when desoldering and add the wire to put on some more solder before sucking it all up at once, or can that cause some possible damage?
-
I see, thanks for the advice! I don't have any desoldering/soldering experience, so do you actually recommend I add more solder to the switch pin joints including the LED pins before sucking it all up with the pump? Do you have to individually suck up the solder/solder the LED pins?
Or should I just try to desolder normally? What makes a bad solder joint to desolder, is there just not enough solder to easily suck it up, or is it something else? Do you recommend using a flux pen or syringe before desoldering?
To add more solder before desoldering/sucking up the solder, do I just do what you normally do when desoldering and add the wire to put on some more solder before sucking it all up at once, or can that cause some possible damage?
I'm not sure if the solder joints are different for each Alloy Origins keyboard, but you just have to try it out once and see what works best.
For my keyboard, without adding extra solder, the solder joints didn't melt fully and since I didn't have flux at the time, it would take me 4-5 tries to suck up 1 solder joint. Also, to add more solder on the joints, I heated the existing solder joint and then added a little bit of my own solder wire.
I still have a lot to learn when it comes to soldering, so don't take my advice for granted. However, it's really important to stay calm and be careful. Good luck!
-
I'm not sure if the solder joints are different for each Alloy Origins keyboard, but you just have to try it out once and see what works best.
For my keyboard, without adding extra solder, the solder joints didn't melt fully and since I didn't have flux at the time, it would take me 4-5 tries to suck up 1 solder joint. Also, to add more solder on the joints, I heated the existing solder joint and then added a little bit of my own solder wire.
I still have a lot to learn when it comes to soldering, so don't take my advice for granted. However, it's really important to stay calm and be careful. Good luck!
Thanks! I do have flux, so maybe if I add some with a pen I won't have to add more solder? If that doesn't work, maybe do what you did but add flux before adding solder?
-
I've also tried to desolder my Alloy Origins, and yeah, it kinda sucks.
I'm also wondering if you did mod your keyboard with foam, what thickness is doable? I have a 4mm thick foam but I don't know if it's too big for the base plate.