Finally built mine and here is my take.
I used a brass plate with a full PC case and hotswap PCB. With the middle gasket it was pretty hard to get the switches seated correctly without bending pins. This probably would have been easier with a solder board but I insisted on hotswap. Additionally, the plate seems like it was slightly bowed, so the switches right side of the board refused to stay completely seated while assembling. The thick rubber gasket between the plate and PCB made this more difficult. However once the entire keyboard was reassembled and screwed together, this problem straightened itself out. One problem remains, however, and that is that the large rubber gasket between the plate and PCB seems to be cut slightly inaccurately. Specifically, where the Enter key is, the gasket overlaps the wire on the stabilizer. This creates a lot of friction and enter is very slow on both the up and down stroke. I think I can fix this issue by disassembling the board and cutting part of the rubber away in that spot. This is a major annoyance now, but I suspect it is fixable.
The only other problem I had was after assembly, discovering that my PCB (both of them, actually) have reset buttons and they contact the bottom of the case hard. I ended up cutting it off and everything works fine now.
The board feels very solid and looks pretty good, and all of the keys besides the enter key feel and sound great. My other minor issue is that the board is winkeyless but the plate has a cutout for another switch under the blocker. On aluminum cases this won't matter, but on a PC case it kind of looks like ****.
This board will be really really good once I fix that annoying issue with the gasket and the enter stabs. I did kind of expect a little bit better QC for the price though. And the hole under the blocker on WKL does feel a little lazy to me.
