The Alumaplop, a compact keyboard/trackball combo in process

[Vibex]

Cool to see your still working on this. It was so cool at keycon last summer.

[hoggy]

Kurplop, that's amazing work.

[kurplop]

Thanks everyone.

 I've been working on an Alumaplop accessory and here's the teaser.

I added it to the end of my Flickr page   https://www.flickr.com/photos/kurplop/sets/72157651718823173

By the way, my Keyboard Tray Evolution is less than 500 views short of 200,000. Why don't you check it out again to help put it over the top.  https://www.flickr.com/photos/kurplop/sets/72157633538408496/

[Zekromtor]

Looks really nice, and fun to type on. What do you line the bottom of the wood with? Fibreglass?

[kurplop]

It's a piece of yoga mat. It's a little thick and I may replace it with something a bit thinner but it sounds and feels better with it.


Now for the 3 weeks observation report.

 -No regrets about using the ML switches. They allowed me to keep the keyboard much more compact than if I had used other switches but with tradeoffs.
      The ML isn't as smooth as the MX switch but I think that will improve as they wear in.
      I prefer the vertical spacing but the horizontal is just a little smaller than ideal for my hands. My preliminary tests suggested that, but I figured that I would get used to it and eventually I may. I think if I did another ML keyboard I would consider spacing them another .05" horizontally and live with the gaps between the keys.
     
 -I'm glad I used the Slimblade in spite of its size and weight.
      I was concerned the large trackball would have made it too big and cumbersome for travel but that has not proven to be the case. I also assumed that I'd have to remove the trackball  to transport but it fits fine in the bag with the laptop.
      Because of the emphasis on compactness, I kept the space between the trackball and keys to a minimum. When I make its permanent desktop companion I may choose to separate them a bit more.
      I don't like the placement of the 3 bottom trackball buttons but space didn't permit mimicking the diamond pattern on my old tray.

 - I'm still getting use to the layout which is why I decided to use it exclusively until it becomes second nature. It takes me an unusually long time to get use to any changes.

[Stargorn]

It's just beautiful. Thank you so much for keeping a public record of this.

[kurplop]

It's my pleasure. Thank you and welcome to Geekhack.

[CPTBadAss]

Thanks everyone.

 I've been working on an Alumaplop accessory and here's the teaser.
(Attachment Link)
I added it to the end of my Flickr page   https://www.flickr.com/photos/kurplop/sets/72157651718823173

By the way, my Keyboard Tray Evolution is less than 500 views short of 200,000. Why don't you check it out again to help put it over the top.  https://www.flickr.com/photos/kurplop/sets/72157633538408496/

YES MORE MACHINING PORN. MORE. I WANT TO BATHE IN THE CHIPS.

[kurplop]

Thanks everyone.

 I've been working on an Alumaplop accessory and here's the teaser.
(Attachment Link)
I added it to the end of my Flickr page   https://www.flickr.com/photos/kurplop/sets/72157651718823173

By the way, my Keyboard Tray Evolution is less than 500 views short of 200,000. Why don't you check it out again to help put it over the top.  https://www.flickr.com/photos/kurplop/sets/72157633538408496/

YES MORE MACHINING PORN. MORE. I WANT TO BATHE IN THE CHIPS.

You have inspired me. Plans for my next keyboard are in the works and this time I'm going to document the process in video. I already bought a clapper and a beret!  I'm hoping to do a 10 part series on YouTube covering many of the steps involved in making a keyboard. Tasks such as designing, machining, harvesting parts, soldering, PCB making, woodworking, and adapting/modifying parts will be covered. Nothing new or better than anything else out there but a full chronology of the process of bringing a keyboard from conception to desktop..

Don't expect anything soon though. I want to have most of the series shot before I begin releasing them. Hopefully by Christmas you will be bathing in rosewood shavings and aluminum chips!

Remember to wear eye protection when watching!

[CPTBadAss]

* CPTBadAss is insanely excited

Have you considered getting a Go-Pro? Could be a great use for one.

And I put my perscription safety glasses on when I read this thread. Does that count?

[kurplop]

Are they OSHA approved?

[CPTBadAss]

If you're asking about the glasses, of course, provided by my workplace. If you're asking about the Go-Pro? I honestly have no idea lol.

[derezzed]

It looks a keyboard and an arcade cabinet got put into one of the teleporters from the movie The Fly, and the Alumaplop is the result.  I don't want this, I need it.

[kurplop]

It looks a keyboard and an arcade cabinet got put into one of the teleporters from the movie The Fly, and the Alumaplop is the result.  I don't want this, I need it.

Do you think I should rename it the Brundleboard? I'm just glad that this mutation was for the better.

Update:   
    +  I'm getting use to using it and my speed is about as fast/slow as with my former set up. I'm pretty sure that the shorter travel and spacing will make my typing speed much faster.

    +? I'm really liking the layout but the jury is still out on the tighter horizontal spacing. 

     ? The switches seem to be getting smoother with time. I lubed them and I think the viscosity was a bit heavier than ideal.

Would I use ML's again?  I'm not sure. I think time will tell. For a portable keyboard it makes a lot of sense because of the much lower profile. If I made custom sized keycaps it would be easy to make the vertical spacing tighter; I think .60" to .65" would be perfect. If I used them on my next desktop keyboard, it will be for consistency in muscle memory.

Overall the Alumaplop is a keeper. I'm using it exclusively and am really enjoying it. It's more travel friendly than I could have hoped for. It feels great. It has a great thocky sound and the trackball, while not for everyone, is perfect for me.

[yobinad]

Impressive work 

That requires many knowledge in diverse areas. I wanna be like you when i grow up 

Congratulations 

[kurplop]

Impressive work 

That requires many knowledge in diverse areas. I wanna be like you when i grow up 

Congratulations 

And I want to be young again.  

Thanks.

[kurplop]

Update:   
    +  I'm getting use to using it and my speed is about as fast/slow as with my former set up. I'm pretty sure that the shorter travel and spacing will make my typing speed much faster.

    +? I'm really liking the layout but the jury is still out on the tighter horizontal spacing. 

     ? The switches seem to be getting smoother with time. I lubed them and I think the viscosity was a bit heavier than ideal.

Would I use ML's again?  I'm not sure. I think time will tell. For a portable keyboard it makes a lot of sense because of the much lower profile. If I made custom sized keycaps it would be easy to make the vertical spacing tighter; I think .60" to .65" would be perfect. If I used them on my next desktop keyboard, it will be for consistency in muscle memory.

It's been 3 weeks since my last evaluation and I thought I'd update it.

I do think there is something to the shorter travel and spacing. I'm typing faster (less slower) than I ever was before.

I'm fine with the 0.70" horizontal spacing although if I was designing from scratch I would keep the standard 0.75".

The ML's are a bit of a letdown. I was hoping they would improve but they don't give nearly as satisfying a typing experience as many of  the alternatives. I'm still using it exclusively and don't think it was a mistake using the ML's because it keeps the board much less bulky; a good quality for a keyboard that will not be confined to the desktop. I'm just saying that there is definitely a compromise in the feel of the switch to achieve the compactness.

So it looks like it's back to the drawing board.

Just kidding.

[CPTBadAss]

Feel free to send the garbage over this way for proper disposal!

[Oobly]

Thanks for the progress report and sharing your experiences!

I've found stock ML's to be a bit disappointing myself for a number of reasons:
1. They're scratchy.. worse than Browns in my experience.
2. With the shorter travel and hard bottom out I find I experience a bit more finger shock with them than my MX boards, although I'm sure I could get used to the shorter travel and not have a problem with this in time.
3. The off-axis increase in friction is distracting. The narrower spacing on most ML boards means the key centres are not where you're used to, so off-axis hits occur often. This causes them to have more friction in the best cases and almost get stuck in the worst cases and can really break my flow when typing.
4. The stock keycaps are decent, but a little loose and this contributes to the off-axis "stiction".

So I played around with them a bit and have managed to improve them enough to actually enjoy them.

1. Lubing them does wonders. It reduces the scratchiness to almost nothing. Even better, it reduces off-axis friction a LOT. I have yet to try "proper" Krytox on them, but my tests with silicone lube (quite thin) have worked nicely.
2. Adding a really thin (around 0.2mm I'd guess?) slice from a silicone oring as a "trampoline mod" in the centre tube helps a lot with bottom-out shock.
3. With an "in-between" spacing, 18.5mm, I found I hit them off-centre much less.
4. I got some samples of Family13 keycaps from SP and they are better than the stock ones (although quite expensive if you're just ordering a few).

With the top 2 mods I really enjoy using ML switches. They're not as nice as my plate mounted, 62g, stickered, lubed, trampoline modded ErgoClears with SA keycaps in an aluminium case, but they're not all that far off.. Without the mods I just can't use them for very long without massive frustration. The biggest problem is I find they're a real pain to dismantle when mounted on a PCB, but it can be done if you're patient. So I recommend trying lubing and trampolines if you want to "revive" your board.

[kurplop]

I think that I goofed when I did a partial lube. I was able to pretty well lube most of the rub points just by lubing the stem. I mixed 2 different krytox lubes, one very thin oil and the other more of a grease viscosity, I think the mix was to thick because it actually made it feel stickier than before. I may have to pull them all apart to fix the problem but in the meantime I'm hoping it will improve on its own.

If I do take them apart I'll be able to fully lube the remaining areas. I think the only thing left is the stem shaft. Am I right?

[Oobly]

I think that I goofed when I did a partial lube. I was able to pretty well lube most of the rub points just by lubing the stem. I mixed 2 different krytox lubes, one very thin oil and the other more of a grease viscosity, I think the mix was to thick because it actually made it feel stickier than before. I may have to pull them all apart to fix the problem but in the meantime I'm hoping it will improve on its own.

If I do take them apart I'll be able to fully lube the remaining areas. I think the only thing left is the stem shaft. Am I right?

That sounds right. I had varying success with lubing different points and the best result I had was when I submerged the whole slider in the lube. There are a lot of contact points (vertical slider areas on both sides, contact bumps, tube and post, etc) and just dunking the slider in the lube is less effort than "painting" lube on all the contact areas. This is the technique I use for bulk lubing. Just drop the sliders in a jar with the lube when dismantling and pull them out with pliers when reassembling, but it means you need a decent amount of lube.

I'm using a thin silicone fluid, not sure the actual viscosity, but it's quite similar to water.

Here is a post by Bro Caps showing the lube points, incidentally he mentions using GPL100 for his ML switches: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34332.msg820919#msg820919

I really hope this works for you, as the Alumaplop is such a beautiful board and deserves a long and fruitful life!

A related thought on lubing and wear: I have tried new ML switches and "worn-in" ML switches, expecting the older, worn in ones to be smoother, but they aren't. It seems they don't really wear in and get smooth like MX switches do, so lubing them can be done at any point. I like to wear in my MX switches before lubing.

PS - I wish SP made a more contoured profile of caps for ML so we could get a contoured finger surface using a flat PCB like SA profile Row 1, Row 3, inverted Row 1.

[kurplop]

Thanks for the lube details and the hope that the smoothness can be further improved. I may wait until I finish the next project before lubing them because at this point I can't stand typing on anything else and I'm so slow it may take days to properly clean and lube it.

[kurplop]

Just a little evidence to show that the Alumaplop is being used often.
Fortunately, I have many replacement caps