Author Topic: Tight Cherry MX Clear (Read 13190 times)

terran5992 · « **on:** Fri, 15 November 2013, 23:41:40 »

Some keycaps are stuck on the switch , if i pull too hard the stem will come out of the housing.

Is there any way to fix this?

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #1 on:** Fri, 15 November 2013, 23:43:46 »

There are a few threads about this.

Someone suggested a small amount of lube.

dragonxx21 · « **Reply #2 on:** Fri, 15 November 2013, 23:44:41 »

Quote from: terran5992 on Fri, 15 November 2013, 23:41:40

Some keycaps are stuck on the switch , if i pull too hard the stem will come out of the housing.

Is there any way to fix this?

Prevention is the best way! Add a little drop of lube when putting on key caps.

metalliqaz · « **Reply #3 on:** Fri, 15 November 2013, 23:46:35 »

Lube? ugh I would never do that.

terran5992 · « **Reply #4 on:** Fri, 15 November 2013, 23:49:22 »

But the problem is that it is already stuck there. Any way to get it out?

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #5 on:** Fri, 15 November 2013, 23:54:56 »

Quote from: terran5992 on Fri, 15 November 2013, 23:49:22

But the problem is that it is already stuck there. Any way to get it out?

Very carefully with a key puller. This is a good time to have one of these.

Sorry my tapatalk isn't working properly with images.

RaVNzCRoFT · « **Reply #6 on:** Fri, 15 November 2013, 23:55:14 »

I guess your best bet is just to pull very slowly and be sure to wiggle side to side. If the stem comes out of the housing, I suppose you could use a keycap puller on the keycap while pulling on the stem with needlenose pliers.

metalliqaz · « **Reply #7 on:** Fri, 15 November 2013, 23:55:24 »

I just yanked some caps off of some brand new Clears. They were really on there but I just yanked hard and they came off.

Pacifist · « **Reply #8 on:** Fri, 15 November 2013, 23:59:20 »

You have to pull fast so the stem stays in place due to inertia

terran5992 · « **Reply #9 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:06:51 »

Oh ****, accidently pulled out the stem...

HELP

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #10 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:10:13 »

Yeah the yanking fast is a bad idea....

What board is it?

Photoelectric · « **Reply #11 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:11:16 »

The stem + switch top? Or just the stem? If the latter, you need to desolder, unless your keyboard has a plate that allows opening switches without desoldering.

I'd never yank--there've been reports of keycap stems breaking and can be trouble for the switch too.
(on the plus side, my thick PBT Vortex caps fit fairly loosely over clears vs others I've tried, so it's not a problem

)

terran5992 · « **Reply #12 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:12:22 »

Its a korean custom, ps2avr PCB

The stem came out, the switch top is still intact

Photoelectric · « **Reply #13 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:14:33 »

Hm, I would check if the plate has openings around the sides of the switch, if you can open the tops with something like the Beast's tools or improvised tools. You need to open the top and reinsert the stem. If you can't open it, you need to desolder and then open the switch and reassemble.

terran5992 · « **Reply #14 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:20:42 »

Photoelectric · « **Reply #15 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:21:45 »

Which keyboard is it exactly? Can't see the sides around the switch too well, but looks like not the kind of plate where you can open the switches. Unclear though as the angle is ambiguous.

terran5992 · « **Reply #16 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:22:51 »

Quote from: Photoelectric on Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:21:45

Which keyboard is it exactly? Can't see the sides around the switch too well, but looks like not the kind of plate where you can open the switches. Unclear though as the angle is ambiguous.

It uses a ps2avr, and has a custom acrylic case and plate

terran5992 · « **Reply #17 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:23:19 »

Oh and it has LEDS

Photoelectric · « **Reply #18 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:24:54 »

Doh right, the LEDs should have been a giveaway for the answer. Yeah, I'm afraid you have to desolder the LED and the switch. Open up the switch, and resolder

terran5992 · « **Reply #19 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:26:30 »

Quote from: Photoelectric on Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:24:54

Doh right, the LEDs should have been a giveaway for the answer. Yeah, I'm afraid you have to desolder the LED and the switch. Open up the switch, and resolder

The whole board or just that swtich?

Photoelectric · « **Reply #20 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:28:00 »

Quote from: terran5992 on Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:26:30

Quote from: Photoelectric on Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:24:54
Doh right, the LEDs should have been a giveaway for the answer. Yeah, I'm afraid you have to desolder the LED and the switch. Open up the switch, and resolder

The whole board or just that swtich?

Just that particular switch. 4 joints: 2 for the LED and 2 for the switch.

terran5992 · « **Reply #21 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:31:58 »

Oh that's good to hear.

metalliqaz · « **Reply #22 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:33:22 »

Oh man I'm sorry

Photoelectric · « **Reply #23 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:35:48 »

Yeah, Clears are the devil for some keycaps ;( I don't use some keycaps on Clears specifically for that reason. I test them first. If they are too tight--don't use.

stancato9 · « **Reply #24 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:36:25 »

Quote from: Photoelectric on Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:35:48

Yeah, Clears are the devil for some keycaps ;(

What makes clears different? Is the stem physically larger?

Photoelectric · « **Reply #25 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:37:14 »

There's a thread I posted a while ago, I'll look for it. Posted photos. The stem seems to be a bit different at the top. It locks onto the keycaps better.

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #26 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:37:26 »

Quote from: stancato9 on Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:36:25

Quote from: Photoelectric on Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:35:48
Yeah, Clears are the devil for some keycaps ;(

What makes clears different? Is the stem physically larger?

There is a whole thread about it, I'd link it but my phone is being dumb.

Photoelectric · « **Reply #27 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:39:49 »

Here's one:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45122

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #28 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:41:46 »

FWIW I've had the issue with brand new clears and cherry double shots.

Photoelectric · « **Reply #29 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:42:46 »

I've had it with many different keycaps. The only ones that have been okay so far have been thick Vortex PBT dye sub caps.

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #30 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:43:45 »

This is what I was trying to post earlier. Best key puller for this situation.

stancato9 · « **Reply #31 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 01:01:02 »

Quote from: SpAmRaY on Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:43:45

This is what I was trying to post earlier. Best key puller for this situation.

How would you use this in that situation? It looks like you would only be able to get it under one side of the cap and the weight wouldn't be evenly distributed.

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #32 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 01:03:05 »

It goes underneath the cap and lifts up, its like a pry bar.

Photoelectric · « **Reply #33 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 01:04:55 »

I use a long flat object to gradually wiggle a stuck cap upwards. Like insert it under the cap along the switch and push up. Then insert from another direction and do the same. Rinse, repeat.
(in before jokes about inserting long objects)

terran5992 · « **Reply #34 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 01:09:01 »

Hmm is it remotely possible to squeeze the stem back into the housing?

Photoelectric · « **Reply #35 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 01:16:40 »

I don't think so. Just tried it to confirm. You can file the top of your switch cover slightly to increase the opening size and try. But... then you'd be pulling out the stem every time you remove keycaps. And you don't want to enlarge it enough for the stem to come out easily.

Austin Powers · « **Reply #36 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 03:34:58 »

Was wondering... Do stock mech keyboards have ready-lube on cherry mx stems?

SuperiorKarate · « **Reply #37 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 06:48:22 »

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #38 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 07:15:15 »

Quote from: Austin Powers on Sat, 16 November 2013, 03:34:58

Was wondering... Do stock mech keyboards have ready-lube on cherry mx stems?

I'm assuming you mean on the top.

No.

Austin Powers · « **Reply #39 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 07:44:55 »

Quote from: SpAmRaY on Sat, 16 November 2013, 07:15:15

Quote from: Austin Powers on Sat, 16 November 2013, 03:34:58
Was wondering... Do stock mech keyboards have ready-lube on cherry mx stems?

I'm assuming you mean on the top.

No.

Damn, I hope mine doesn't grip tight when I try to swap.

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #40 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 07:49:52 »

Just don't get carried away and you should be fine.

Belfong · « **Reply #41 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 09:04:05 »

I only have WASD Code which is Clears. And I have the Vortex PBT caps from feng in its way. The discussion seems to be around other key caps being unsuitable for Clears because of the way it's stem was. But what about the stock key cap? Would it be hard to remove the stock caps from Code before I put on the new stuff? Any experience?

Oobly · « **Reply #42 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 11:25:26 »

I test caps with a loose clear switch and if they're stiff I put on them on the loose switch and pull them off again a few times until they loosen up enough to be acceptable. Has worked well enough with those tight POM caps from Banggood and some PBT.

Desolder the LED and switch and remove it completely from the board. Then open it up with a small screwdriver and reassemble with the stem in place. Then place the switch and LED back in place and add a little fresh solder to each joint. Done. Unfortunately I can't think of an easier way to get this done without damaging something.

Sorry this happened and good luck with it.

berserkfan · « **Reply #43 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 13:13:44 »

Your study was a superb example of geekhackery, Photoelectric. We really needed these closeups.

I, too, had been wondering why my clears seemed to have more problems with keycaps.

This is not something most people can just tell at a glance. (EG you had to zoom in with camera to show the bigger clears bump.)

But when that's said and done, I have had vintage clears and new clears, and on different keycaps, they were never so tight as to have serious problems. At worst it was only 'harder to pull out'.

I'm wondering if there is a problem with Terran's custom made keyboard. Too bad they are doubleshots. If they were PBT I would suggest heating them slightly to see if they can expand and be removed more easily.

Terran, I'm thinking of one possibility. Try it on a spare switch first. Put a stem in the fridge to cool it, then use a bit of lube, and see if you can push it back in from the top. Otherwise you have to desolder both switch and LEDs.

Quote from: Photoelectric on Sat, 16 November 2013, 00:42:46

I've had it with many different keycaps. The only ones that have been okay so far have been thick Vortex PBT dye sub caps.

Photoelectric · « **Reply #44 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 13:21:48 »

It's not just Terran's--I've pulled out the stems too on brand new Clears--albeit with top covers, as my keyboards have plates that allow for top removal. So it wasn't a huge issue, as I could reassemble the switches quickly. But it's a real problem for those who can't do that. That's why testing each new keycap set on a switch or two is important. Some keycaps pop in and you hear them click onto the switch. Then good luck removing them easily. What I find helps is removing the caps gently, maybe a few attempts per cap. Gradually getting it off the stem.

It's likely that your keycaps were on the loose side, especially if you use thick PBT. I hear it tends to wear out around the stems for looser fit. Certainly fits with what I'm experiencing with the Vortex thick PBT keycaps--they are fairly easy to remove from MX Clears.

P.S.: I've updated the OP in that thread.

Belfong · « **Reply #45 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 18:08:46 »

Photoelectric, if you have pulled out stem from modern clears, then your other post where you emphasized that it does not happen to modern clears need a rewrite, I think.

Photoelectric · « **Reply #46 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 18:13:58 »

Already rewritten as noted above! Additional photographs of modern Clears added as well.

catnipz0098 · « **Reply #47 on:** Sat, 16 November 2013, 19:32:00 »

I might not get clears.

Don't want to risk a stuck keycap

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #48 on:** Sun, 17 November 2013, 06:13:49 »

Quote from: catnipz0098 on Sat, 16 November 2013, 19:32:00

I might not get clears. Don't want to risk a stuck keycap

It's not normally that big of an issue. If by chance you get right fitting caps you just have to remove carefully.

terran5992 · « **Reply #49 on:** Sun, 17 November 2013, 07:47:26 »

Quote from: catnipz0098 on Sat, 16 November 2013, 19:32:00

I might not get clears. Don't want to risk a stuck keycap

Might just be the cheap ass tai hao double shots causing the problem

News:

Author Topic: Tight Cherry MX Clear (Read 13190 times)