TS65 - The Split 65% Keyboard

[SectorOMEGA]

Does any one have PCBs for sale for this one? Really want to buy one, as I'm in Bulgaria and PCB companies quote me a little be too much for this one without any components on it. So I would love to buy one even only the PCB

[MOZ]

Thanks, looks like I'll have the keyboard complete today. Woop woop. Can't wait.

[MOZ]

Does any one have PCBs for sale for this one? Really want to buy one, as I'm in Bulgaria and PCB companies quote me a little be too much for this one without any components on it. So I would love to buy one even only the PCB

I might have a couple extras, and components too, but they need to be soldered as well as require some hot fixes (cut traces and reroute)

[SectorOMEGA]

Does any one have PCBs for sale for this one? Really want to buy one, as I'm in Bulgaria and PCB companies quote me a little be too much for this one without any components on it. So I would love to buy one even only the PCB

I might have a couple extras, and components too, but they need to be soldered as well as require some hot fixes (cut traces and reroute)

Soldering is not a problem, but the reroute and trace cut will be the problem. But still if you give me hint on it would love to give it a try Give me a shout out if you have some spares and the price for it. I'm in love with this one.

[carzian]

I'm interested too Moz. The pcb fixes won't be a problem for me

[MOZ]

I'll let you guys know, going to be honest, I'd like to do a new revision with the fixes done, some have already been done by smokemm. I would like to send the first versions out to whoever is interested in designing an aluminum case.

[Marvellion]

I'll let you guys know, going to be honest, I'd like to do a new revision with the fixes done, some have already been done by smokemm. I would like to send the first versions out to whoever is interested in designing an aluminum case.

That's the best choice probably, I sure can wait for a revised PCB. An aluminum case to go with it would be even better, although for starters an acrylic, Let's split style case would be nice too.

[MOZ]

I'll let you guys know, going to be honest, I'd like to do a new revision with the fixes done, some have already been done by smokemm. I would like to send the first versions out to whoever is interested in designing an aluminum case.

That's the best choice probably, I sure can wait for a revised PCB. An aluminum case to go with it would be even better, although for starters an acrylic, Let's split style case would be nice too.

This is not a GB, the aluminum case I mentioned only because a couple of people have shown interest in building one and wanted a PCB to test things out.

[Marvellion]

 I know you won't run a GB for this, I worded my post a bit poorly, sorry about that. I just saw the github file for the acrylic case, that was what I was asking for..

[SectorOMEGA]

Last night I have spoken to a close friend that runs a woodshop and has CNC router. He made me a wooden case for my 60% and he told me that he can give me hand for the split one also So MOZ once you know the situations with the PCBs just shout out Would love to get my hands on this one.

[MOZ]

I'll let you know soon enough.

As for the board, it's up and running (no surprises, two guys already have one operational before me, pfft).

I'll update the PCB. Regarding the connection between the two halves, would it be better if we used a USB type C rather than the USB micro 3? When I started the project, finding moderately priced reliable USB Type-C cable was a challenge as they weren't that common. Has the situation changed where we can look at this connector for connecting the two halves?

[MajorKoos]

I'll let you know soon enough.

As for the board, it's up and running (no surprises, two guys already have one operational before me, pfft).

I'll update the PCB. Regarding the connection between the two halves, would it be better if we used a USB type C rather than the USB micro 3? When I started the project, finding moderately priced reliable USB Type-C cable was a challenge as they weren't that common. Has the situation changed where we can look at this connector for connecting the two halves?

I've been considering the exact same thing and prices are still insane for a USB-C male-male cable - $25 or so.
Perhaps this will work: https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030319&p_id=14984&seq=1&format=2

[MOZ]

I was thinking usb 3.0 type a to usb type c. The kind that's used for new android phones.

[MajorKoos]

The SATA connection on my VE.A has held up far better than I expected - zero issues to report.
I use this cable for the connection: http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=445

[MOZ]

Yeah, I'm not too sure about SATA to be honest, it's an interface for internal connections that don't see as frequent disconnects. I have had the connector fail on two drive docks, so personal experience hasn't been that great with them.

[Marvellion]

Yeah, I'm not too sure about SATA to be honest, it's an interface for internal connections that don't see as frequent disconnects. I have had the connector fail on two drive docks, so personal experience hasn't been that great with them.

I heard on the Ve.A thread that SATA cutout was a pain to do on the aluminum cases. Any USB type is probably better.

[MOZ]

@majorkoos, do you have backlight LEDs? For some reason mine are flickering, don't have this issue on my SAMPad, which uses the identical electronics.

[MajorKoos]

@majorkoos, do you have backlight LEDs? For some reason mine are flickering, don't have this issue on my SAMPad, which uses the identical electronics.

@Moz - none of the in-switch of indicator LEDs on my PCB light up - I don't think I'm missing any resistors.
Same firmware as what's in your repository?

[MOZ]

I haven't had a chance to set up the AVR toolchain, so I'm still testing with your firmware. There aren't individual resistors on the LEDs rather they are controlled via a LED controller. I'll setup the toolchain the coming week and see if it's a firmware issue. I also get this weird behavior where, even without touching anything on the back of the PCB, if I move my hand over this small section of area by the indicator LEDs in the corner, the lights go on/off for a second. Might be something to do with the inductor there. Any electronics expert here that can help with this?

[smokemm]

Excited for the updates. If there is anything I can do to help please let me know! (i'm asking a friend about the in switch LEDs. He might be able to give some insight as to why they are acting this way)

Also I will be at the NYC keyboard meet up on August 5th with my TS65 (and possibly a few extras) if anyone is interested in seeing it.

[MOZ]

So I was playing around to see what the issue was with the flickering and it would seem (hopefully it's this, so that I can fix and move ahead) that my MCU is misbehaving. I isolated the various LED connections via the firmware, enabling one at a time, along with the BL to see what it was, and,
1. The RGB didn't have any effect on the BL - Pin B7
2. Indicator 1 (caps-lock) would cause BL to turn off when led was on - I've switched mine to pin B4 on my PCB. Originally it is on pin C6.
3. Indicator 2 (caps-lock) would cause BL to flicker when led was on - Pin D7
4. Indicator 3 (caps-lock) didn't have any effect - Pin F1
5. Capslock LED indicator didn't have any effect - Pin C7
6. Backlight LEDs are connected to Pin B5. BL was not enabled in the firmware on the github repo, I enabled it on my system. However, the BL are not responding to toggle, step commands. I used hid_listen to check and the command seems to be going through, so no issues with the keymapping.

I've attached a hex file along with the keymap, if someone could test this please, it would be highly appreciated. I've mapped Indicator 1 to C6 as per the original PCB.

[MajorKoos]

I thing I'm just going to confuse the issue here.
I tested a couple of LEDs on my PCB.
No flickering on the left half. 
Right half doesn't seem to be getting any power to the LEDs - checked with my multimeter.

[MOZ]

Which PCB are you using?

[MajorKoos]

Same version as @smokemm with the trace fixes to get the RGB working on each side.

[MOZ]

Did you get it from him? There was a need to fix traces for RGBs and LEDs. Can you see if the LED anode/cathode from left side is connected to either of the terminals on the right side. They might have been switched.

[MajorKoos]

I poked around the PCB after looking at the schematics and ended up lost.
I'm not sure where I should be probing with a multi-meter to check.

[MOZ]

Your RGB LEDs are working, so that's a good sign. Try this, probe left side led anode and right side led anide/cathode, see if you get anything.

[MajorKoos]

I think you're right about the anode/cathode being swapped.
I did these measurements between the anode/cathode pads for some LEDS on each half.

Continuity testing:
A continuality test between the anodes on either side works.  Same for a continuity test between the cathodes.
A continuity test between the anodes on both halves fails.  Same for a continuity test between the anodes on each half.
What does succeed is a continuity test between the cathodes on the right and the anodes on the left.

Measuring the voltages:
Anode to cathode on the right = 5.15v
Anode on the right to cathode on the left = 4.45v
Anode on the right to anode on the left = 5.15v
Cathode on the left to anode on the right = 0v
Cathode on the left to cathode on the right = 0.7v

[MOZ]

Maybe you need to cut some traces and rewire the anode/cathode on any one of the two sides. Well at least you're not seeing any flicker, I get flicker even if the right half is not connected. It's been a busy weekend, but I'll try and swap out the controller

[carzian]

Moz were you able to resolve the flickering?

[MOZ]

I haven't had a chance yet, I'll be reseating, possibly replacing the MCU today or tomorrow, I'm pretty sure that is the problematic component here.

[carzian]

If that's the problem, is the pcb good to go?

[MOZ]

I'll only know once I've swapped the MCU around, I still need to make the changes to the pins that need to be swapped. I used the same sort of circuitry for the LEDs in the SAMPad and it works fine, which makes me think that unless there is some sort of EM interference that I have no clue about, it's likely an issue with my build. I'll definitely keep you all updated.

[Nightingale12]

I've seen that you've stated that you aren't interested in doing a group buy for this. I'm interested in finding a way to get one of these. That being said I don't think I have the skills to do the modificaitons being discussed recently.

Would my best option be to wait until you finish the design behind the pcb and then send the files off to create my own pcb? I've also seen smokemm selling some off but I have a specific layout I want.

[MOZ]

So, Logitech is introducing a keyboard with a customisable multi-function dial. Hmmm

[pixelpusher]

So, Logitech is introducing a keyboard with a customisable multi-function dial. Hmmm

It's interesting... but most of the stuff it does can be done with a keyboard press and the tab key.  I feel like it's a shortcut for using a mouse, except the keyboard by itself can already do that.

[CamRank1]

Hey guys, watned to pop in and see if smokemm or someone had a set of these I could buy from them, seems easier than trying to manufactur a 1-off PCB myself using git

[MOZ]

Quick update, still need to debug the issues I was having, started as Scrum Master at my workplace, so have been busy with that, but will be getting to this, this week hopefully.

[koduh]

Quick update, still need to debug the issues I was having, started as Scrum Master at my workplace, so have been busy with that, but will be getting to this, this week hopefully.

We love updates. Thanks Moz for all you do. I'm waiting anxiously.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[Nightingale12]

Picked up a PCB and started to have some troubles after building it. Both column 1 and column 2 are not working for me. I am fairly sure I tested it before building and it worked fine then.

Wondering if anyone has experienced this before or looking for help on figuring out what to poke at to see what is wrong.

[MOZ]

Check the MCU is installed correctly. I don't think we've had anyone with this issue yet.

Which PCB did you get printed?
What firmware are you running?

In other news, I moved to a new house and finally just about everything is settled, so I'm hoping to make some progress on this in the coming weeks. Sorry for the constant delays.

[Nightingale12]

I got my PCBfrom smokemm and it worked when it arrived. I remember hitting the reset switch while building it, but it wasn't plugged in. Would that have changed the firmware it was flashed with before I got it? If it doesn't then the firmware wouldn't have changed while building it and would point to the MCU being the problem.

Currently using the hex attached. I got it by following this guide https://docs.qmk.fm/faq_build.html and using the qmk repo back when the ts65avr was still in it.

I tried using a paper clip to jump the column pins on MCU the to the switches but that made the two columns register at the same time. I will try using the hex posted by major koos earlier to see if that works.

Edit: flashed with major_koos hex file earlier and that didn't work either. Will have to post what I can get to work next.

Edit 2: Jumping any of the colors in the picture causes both  "1" and "ESC" be actuated constantly. I am not really sure that red or blue is helpful but hopefully green is. I have also found that going to from the top of the diode on the switch to the left to the lower pin on the switch will cause both the switch being jumped to and the other switch to be activated only when the key is pressed. Again not sure if this is helpful. Both pictures should be attached, please excuse the soldering, its actually holtites with very small amount of soldered to hold them.

Edit 3: I think my Windows key (S5:2) may be wired backwards. (Incorrect switch picture) Normally shorting the green wire activates the switch, but instead the red wire is shorting this switch. I believe this is causing the row to cross with the column here. Does this sound right to anyone else? Also how would I fix this? I could switch to another layout that works but I only have the one plate right now.

[Ailment]

Any updates on this? I have been playing with some different case designs for my TADA but I think a split like this would be a great option.  Trying to find an ergo option for work but being so used to flat boards I don’t know that I could go to an orthodox or something like that.

[MOZ]

No updates yet, sorry. Super busy at work. Hopefully I can get back on this in January.

[Ailment]

No updates yet, sorry. Super busy at work. Hopefully I can get back on this in January.

All good! Thanks for the info and your work on this. 

[Ailment]

Coming back around on this.  Just got a bag of 67g zilents and got the itch pretty bad   If I were to get the current PCB made would I just need to do the right half LED fix?  Willing to be a test monkey if the newest changes haven’t been tested.

[Ailment]

Anyone available to assist with the BOM on this?

I ordered a few boards from PCBWAY but now that I am gathering components I have run into some roadblocks with items that are out of stock at mouser and . 

1. CAP CER 1UF 10V 10% X7R 0805 CC0805KKX7R6BB105 - Out of stock for several weeks.  The suggested replacements on digikey are 16V+ variations and I am not sure if that would be okay or not (sorry newb)
2. CAP CER 10UF 6.3V X5R 0805 CC0805KKX5R5BB106 - Basically the same as above.
26. IC DECODER/DEMUX 3‐8 LINE 16SOIC 74HC138D - The NXP one seems to be out of stock but there are a bunch of alternatives, I just didn't see one that matches exactly (does not specify 3-8 line and SOIC in description)
27. LED Driver IC 1 Output DC DC Buck 1A PAM2804AAB010 - No alternatives listed, not really sure what to look for. 

Those are the major ones, I am also looking for specific WS2812B but most look like they come on a little board with pins instead of being on their own, the 0805 smd led is similar so I'd take any info on those but I can hunt them down easier than the above items. 

Ill throw together some step by steps for the newbs once I get everything to hopefully make this a little more straight forward for the uninitiated.  Thanks for any help!

[marhalloweenvt]

Anyone available to assist with the BOM on this?

I ordered a few boards from PCBWAY but now that I am gathering components I have run into some roadblocks with items that are out of stock at mouser and . 

1. CAP CER 1UF 10V 10% X7R 0805 CC0805KKX7R6BB105 - Out of stock for several weeks.  The suggested replacements on digikey are 16V+ variations and I am not sure if that would be okay or not (sorry newb)
2. CAP CER 10UF 6.3V X5R 0805 CC0805KKX5R5BB106 - Basically the same as above.
26. IC DECODER/DEMUX 3‐8 LINE 16SOIC 74HC138D - The NXP one seems to be out of stock but there are a bunch of alternatives, I just didn't see one that matches exactly (does not specify 3-8 line and SOIC in description)
27. LED Driver IC 1 Output DC DC Buck 1A PAM2804AAB010 - No alternatives listed, not really sure what to look for. 

Those are the major ones, I am also looking for specific WS2812B but most look like they come on a little board with pins instead of being on their own, the 0805 smd led is similar so I'd take any info on those but I can hunt them down easier than the above items. 

Ill throw together some step by steps for the newbs once I get everything to hopefully make this a little more straight forward for the uninitiated.  Thanks for any help!

I think you could order them on taobao.

[ErgoMacros]

or other vendors like: digikey.com, and Jameco.com to name but 2.
Best of luck!

[SectorOMEGA]

Managed to find UK waiting for stock of those:
CC0805KKX7R6BB105-SMD Multilayer Ceramic Capacitor, 0805 [2012 Metric], 1 µF, 10 V, ± 10%, X7R, CC Series-http://uk.farnell.com/yageo-phycomp/cc0805kkx7r6bb105/cap-mlcc-x7r-1uf-10v-0805/dp/3352067RL#

Also found this in Stock:
AP8803WTG-7 -  Led Driver, 1 Output, Buck (Step Down), 8V-30V in, 500kHz switch,1A out, TSOT-23-5- http://uk.farnell.com/diodes-inc/ap8803wtg-7/ic-led-driver-buck-1a-5tsot23/dp/1825359

For the rest, Later will go to my shop and ask if they have something more.
Would love to pay you for one of the PCBs