Renders look amazing. Just to be sure is the case high profile? As in 2mm of the base of the keycaps are hidden by the keyboard?
What are Sip socket (+$5)?
Soldering switches (+$15) = Is this the cost to have the kit pre-assembled?
No Cherry SILENT Black option?
Nice board. Really nice price! Just trying to justify it.
Which usb connection will this have? And do you have expected weights of the two options?
look i can't tell the real weight but i'm weighting them with my renders expected weight, if it is Alu 6061 without counting any other weight is (not accurate tho):
acrylic: 576g
alu bottom: 1100g
brass weight (to add to alu bottom): 400g-500 , but this can vary depending on how thick will be, might be more.
top alu: 380g
brass plate: 260g
alu plate: 80g
so only case+plate is:
1.1kg for kit1 with standard plate
2kg for kit2, 2.2+kg if kit 2 and brass plate
now to this you have to add switches, pcb, other, my misscalculations, but i think in total it will be:
- 2.6kg+ a full kit2 built with brass plate.
- 1.5kg+ a full kit1 built without brass plate.
Nice board. Really nice price! Just trying to justify it.
Which usb connection will this have? And do you have expected weights of the two options?
Can't tell for connection, but Vincent will answer you this, for the weight i did an estimation based on the renders, so i quote myself from reddit:Quotelook i can't tell the real weight but i'm weighting them with my renders expected weight, if it is Alu 6061 without counting any other weight is (not accurate tho):
acrylic: 576g
alu bottom: 1100g
brass weight (to add to alu bottom): 400g-500 , but this can vary depending on how thick will be, might be more.
top alu: 380g
brass plate: 260g
alu plate: 80g
so only case+plate is:
1.1kg for kit1 with standard plate
2kg for kit2, 2.2+kg if kit 2 and brass plate
now to this you have to add switches, pcb, other, my misscalculations, but i think in total it will be:
- 2.6kg+ a full kit2 built with brass plate.
- 1.5kg+ a full kit1 built without brass plate.
I might since it is based on renders, but more or less should be this the final weight.
Nice board. Really nice price! Just trying to justify it.The connection is Type C,weight should be around 1.3kg for kit 1,kit 2 should be 1.6-2kg,can't make sure since it has brass weight
Which usb connection will this have? And do you have expected weights of the two options?
Nice board. Really nice price! Just trying to justify it.The connection is Type C,weight should be around 1.3kg for kit 1,kit 2 should be 1.6-2kg,can't make sure since it has brass weight
Which usb connection will this have? And do you have expected weights of the two options?
Nice board. Really nice price! Just trying to justify it.The connection is Type C,weight should be around 1.3kg for kit 1,kit 2 should be 1.6-2kg,can't make sure since it has brass weight
Which usb connection will this have? And do you have expected weights of the two options?
Type c is kinda killing this for me. I like to keep everything mini so I can use any of my cables
Type c is kinda killing this for me. I like to keep everything mini so I can use any of my cables
Well it's a change in better, there are super tin adapters btw but really if you have Type-C you use it because it is just better than mini or micro (i got your point tho but it's just a cable afterall)
That is true. And there are more and more type c boards coming out, so I'll just have to get with it. I'm just stubborn =/
That is true. And there are more and more type c boards coming out, so I'll just have to get with it. I'm just stubborn =/
I'm stubborn too but USB-C is slowly becoming the standard (and good thing that it is), the fact it fits either side on is reason enough to mass adopt. Might as well get ahead of the curve and just get a couple custom USB-C cables, doubt we'll be seeing much if any of mini/micro this time next year.
That is true. And there are more and more type c boards coming out, so I'll just have to get with it. I'm just stubborn =/
I'm stubborn too but USB-C is slowly becoming the standard (and good thing that it is), the fact it fits either side on is reason enough to mass adopt. Might as well get ahead of the curve and just get a couple custom USB-C cables, doubt we'll be seeing much if any of mini/micro this time next year.
Typc C Cable have many options and more beautiful indeed...Now many phone cable is Type C which are beautiful and cheap.Maybe it's time to upgrade ;DNice board. Really nice price! Just trying to justify it.The connection is Type C,weight should be around 1.3kg for kit 1,kit 2 should be 1.6-2kg,can't make sure since it has brass weight
Which usb connection will this have? And do you have expected weights of the two options?
Type c is kinda killing this for me. I like to keep everything mini so I can use any of my cables
Vincent, will you have a prototype made before the GB ends? Renders are nice, but seeing the actual product is always helpful.Should be.Indeed we have made a sample before IC,however there are many fans want Fjell top and other suggestions,so our sample is just different from what they want finally.The old sample is just not anodized and top is not round,other parts are not changed.You can see the first sample for reference at first.If we make a new sample,we will extend GB days for a week then
You guys expecting me to buy off of some rendered photos? I dont think so.No worries,there is a sample before IC which only changed top design,you can wait for new samples after 5,Feb,we will make the final samples and extend GB days if many people request it
You guys expecting me to buy off of some rendered photos? I dont think so.
You guys expecting me to buy off of some rendered photos? I dont think so.
He did 2 IC's before starting the GB where he showed the sample, it wasn't showed now in GB mainly because it was with another design on the top (final design has something similar to the Fjell but rounded, while the old design was square). Also the sample made before GB was only the acrylic design, the alu+brass design still has to be made.
Here are the old albums with the sample:
1: https://imgur.com/a/Xawkd
2: https://imgur.com/a/AsPpPShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/dxxAy8V.jpg)
You guys expecting me to buy off of some rendered photos? I dont think so.
He did 2 IC's before starting the GB where he showed the sample, it wasn't showed now in GB mainly because it was with another design on the top (final design has something similar to the Fjell but rounded, while the old design was square). Also the sample made before GB was only the acrylic design, the alu+brass design still has to be made.
Here are the old albums with the sample:
1: https://imgur.com/a/Xawkd
2: https://imgur.com/a/AsPpPShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/dxxAy8V.jpg)
Hmm, I kinda liked the old version better. Thanks for sharing.
Dat thumbnail doh...
(Attachment Link)
Maybe he plays classical guitar? That's what I'm going to imagine.
Hi ive sent an email. Wanted to change the switches from my order if possible and if there are rgb leds as well. And if you have any sample pic for the alu buttom just like how you showed the acrylic bottom from previous replies. And (noob question) will normal mx artisans fit kailh box switches. Thanks.
What size LED for Kailh Box Switches?
Hi ive sent an email. Wanted to change the switches from my order if possible and if there are rgb leds as well. And if you have any sample pic for the alu buttom just like how you showed the acrylic bottom from previous replies. And (noob question) will normal mx artisans fit kailh box switches. Thanks.
Yes artisans works with Kailh box.
Afaik he doesn't have the bottom in alu yet, just the renders, for the bottom he has just the acrylic for now (maybe he will have the sample soon).
For the order change the best way is Vincent.zhao@ymdkey.com or Vincent.zhao.889@gmail.com (assuming you did already), he is kinda new to GH so he might miss messages here.What size LED for Kailh Box Switches?
Go for 1.8mm, they go inside the switch without opening the switches (box have a hole on the bottom for smd-compatibility and it is closed on the top)
How about the shipping when I order 2 pieces?
Hi ive sent an email. Wanted to change the switches from my order if possible and if there are rgb leds as well. And if you have any sample pic for the alu buttom just like how you showed the acrylic bottom from previous replies. And (noob question) will normal mx artisans fit kailh box switches. ThanksYes,kailh box uses the same keycap as other switches
How about the shipping when I order 2 pieces?
He said he will calculate the shipping and will be less than 27+27, but not much different. If you want to know exactly how much, send him a mail with what you ordered and where are you from (just to be safe you are not in one of the "remote" countries)
looks nice, I joined too.Saw it.Tks for your support
made order with my ID.
thx.
Sorry if stupid question, but is this top of tray mounted? I really want to try a top mounted keeb.
Sorry if stupid question, but is this top of tray mounted? I really want to try a top mounted keeb.
Top mounted! You are actually right none of the renders showed that.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/B3EBFAB.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/VckJ1Rs.png)
Sorry if stupid question, but is this top of tray mounted? I really want to try a top mounted keeb.
Top mounted! You are actually right none of the renders showed that.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/B3EBFAB.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/VckJ1Rs.png)
Sorry if stupid question, but is this top of tray mounted? I really want to try a top mounted keeb.
Top mounted! You are actually right none of the renders showed that.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/B3EBFAB.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/VckJ1Rs.png)
Top mounted? Nice.
Are the inswitch LEDs facing north or south?
Sorry if stupid question, but is this top of tray mounted? I really want to try a top mounted keeb.
Top mounted! You are actually right none of the renders showed that.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/B3EBFAB.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/VckJ1Rs.png)
Top mounted? Nice.
Are the inswitch LEDs facing north or south?
South facing, common one, from what i saw from the prototype
Sorry if stupid question, but is this top of tray mounted? I really want to try a top mounted keeb.
Top mounted! You are actually right none of the renders showed that.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/B3EBFAB.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/VckJ1Rs.png)
CandyKeys is running this as EU proxy? Found it on their site by chance.
Is it possible to just engraved the brass plate with "Melody96" only? Leave out the "By YMDK"
Is it possible to just engraved the brass plate with "Melody96" only? Leave out the "By YMDK"
You mean Brass weight right? (not brass plate that will not be engraved).
For the no YMDK thing should be possible as well, lemme ask first. On the side note it's surely possible have it non-engraved at all (few people asked for it)
Is it possible to just engraved the brass plate with "Melody96" only? Leave out the "By YMDK"
You mean Brass weight right? (not brass plate that will not be engraved).
For the no YMDK thing should be possible as well, lemme ask first. On the side note it's surely possible have it non-engraved at all (few people asked for it)
CandyKeys is running this as EU proxy? Found it on their site by chance.
Yeah it was added later, at GB already running.
Ah yes the Brass weight for option 2.For me I like the "Melody96" engraving. Seems ok to me. But I would prefer only that.
I also asked Vincent if this was possible, it's not, he said he could do no engraving at all or all of the engraving (both Melody 96 and By YMDK) but he can't do just the "Melody 96". If there is an update to this and it becomes possible I'd prefere just the "Melody 96" as well.
Is it possible to get Soldering service on the EU proxy via ordering note or something? It is not an option so far. I would like to purchase it from the proxy, but I don't want to do soldering my self.
Furthermore, any examples of the Gold and Rose Gold option?
Gold color: Actual gold has a reflective shine, so will this be more in line with Yellow or the gold color without any shine? Cheers
I'd really like to be able to see a few samples of the colors. I've had issues in the past with the cyan plate being more like navy blue from the welfare96 and I'm just curious to get an idea of the actual colors. Thanks again for doing this, it looks like an awesome project!
Are we going to get real life photos of this board with caps mounted before the group buy ends?
What is the GB end date?
Are we going to get real life photos of this board with caps mounted before the group buy ends?
What is the GB end date?
Ok please update when you hear back. Cant commit till i see the final product.
Furthermore, any examples of the Gold and Rose Gold option?
Gold color: Actual gold has a reflective shine, so will this be more in line with Yellow or the gold color without any shine? Cheers
Furthermore, any examples of the Gold and Rose Gold option?
Gold color: Actual gold has a reflective shine, so will this be more in line with Yellow or the gold color without any shine? Cheers
Rose gold hereShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/3zEmWC4.png)
Gold hereShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/QjJ81bv.jpg)
Went ahead and joined the GB earlier from the site, are we supposed to receive any confirmation e-mail or invoice after filling out the form?
EDIT: Also do we know if the PCB will be compatible with any holtites?
Updates
- GB ends in 22 hours from now (after the midnight of 5 Feb, US time)
- You will have until February 10 to pay, but you must enter before GB closes.
- Some people opted for no engraves on brass weight, few, it is ok.
- Samples should arrive on or after Feb 10, we will post another update when we get the sample.
- Write me a mail if something is unclear (contacts in first page)
- Colors photos (https://i.imgur.com/uGe8Dfy.jpg)
- XDA Dye-sub option (https://imgur.com/a/GaV47)
- XDA Blanks option (https://imgur.com/a/bInak)
- DSA Laser-Printed option (https://imgur.com/a/ARm8t)
- Cherry Dye-su option (https://imgur.com/a/xrWBO)
- OEM printed caps option (https://imgur.com/a/WYWPS)
I just noticed it's an electroplated brass plate and not an actual brass plate, what will the base plate be made of before being plated? I assume aluminum?
Also, since it is electroplated will the finish be glossy/reflective?
EDIT: OP has answered me elsewhere, it's an actual brass plate. Electroplated to be smoother.
I just sent an email to add on to my invoice, hopefully it is not too late.
Just sent an email to see if it's possible to change case color for one of my orders!!
Hopefully it's not too late - but no big deal if it is.
I just sent an email to add on to my invoice, hopefully it is not too late.Just sent an email to see if it's possible to change case color for one of my orders!!
Hopefully it's not too late - but no big deal if it is.
Are we still on schedule regarding the color samples (10th February)? I might want to change my colour aswell, depending on the samples
If you don't get an answer before 10/11, pm me, he is busy these days
regarding the color samples (10th February)?
regarding the color samples (10th February)?
i'll ask, afaik not all colors should come on 10/11, btw he kinda showed the real colors (some taken from his ali shop)
Any news on the samples?
How does this board compare to the Espectro and tkc-1800?
Any news on the samples?
Any updates?
This thing i wrote above is still the last update:
>"Wrote to Vincent for that since he wasn't checking GH these days. He got the samples yes, but they are not anodized, also they are on holiday now for the CNY, just like the rest of China"
I really doubt he will answer here during CNY.
This thing i wrote above is still the last update:
>"Wrote to Vincent for that since he wasn't checking GH these days. He got the samples yes, but they are not anodized, also they are on holiday now for the CNY, just like the rest of China"
I really doubt he will answer here during CNY.
This thing i wrote above is still the last update:
>"Wrote to Vincent for that since he wasn't checking GH these days. He got the samples yes, but they are not anodized, also they are on holiday now for the CNY, just like the rest of China"
I really doubt he will answer here during CNY.
Not sure if you can answer this but do you think there's a possibility of extras being available (I missed the GB :()?
This thing i wrote above is still the last update:
>"Wrote to Vincent for that since he wasn't checking GH these days. He got the samples yes, but they are not anodized, also they are on holiday now for the CNY, just like the rest of China"
I really doubt he will answer here during CNY.
Do you know whether order color changes are possible post color-samples? I know that we would have the opportunity with the prior sample dates 5th-10th february, but with this many extensions, I am concerned this may no longer be the case.
No worries incase you do not know :thumb:
I know it's been asked a million times...but any update on the samples? Would love to see to actual board.
Also while you wait for the anodized samples, here are two peperoni pics of the naked sample before the anodization.
No anodization, no feets, kit 2 sample: https://imgur.com/a/xgI8D
Also while you wait for the anodized samples, here are two peperoni pics of the naked sample before the anodization.
No anodization, no feets, kit 2 sample: https://imgur.com/a/xgI8D
This actually looks pretty great, even without anodization :p
Also while you wait for the anodized samples, here are two peperoni pics of the naked sample before the anodization.
No anodization, no feets, kit 2 sample: https://imgur.com/a/xgI8D
Also while you wait for the anodized samples, here are two peperoni pics of the naked sample before the anodization.
No anodization, no feets, kit 2 sample: https://imgur.com/a/xgI8D
Man, that unanodized sample looks fantastic. I should have gone with titanium grey instead of boring old black.
Man, that unanodized sample looks fantastic. I should have gone with titanium grey instead of boring old black.
Indeed. I think I would like to change my silver to Titanium Gray/Cyan to be honest :p
Man, that unanodized sample looks fantastic. I should have gone with titanium grey instead of boring old black.
Indeed. I think I would like to change my silver to Titanium Gray/Cyan to be honest :p
Man, that unanodized sample looks fantastic. I should have gone with titanium grey instead of boring old black.
Indeed. I think I would like to change my silver to Titanium Gray/Cyan to be honest :p
Could we? Is it too late?
I’d like to add genuine stabs to my order too if I could.
Man, that unanodized sample looks fantastic. I should have gone with titanium grey instead of boring old black.
Indeed. I think I would like to change my silver to Titanium Gray/Cyan to be honest :p
Could we? Is it too late?
I’d like to add genuine stabs to my order too if I could.
To add things like stabs you should be always in time, to totally change your order i don't know to be honest and you should ask directly to Vincent via mail.
Man, that unanodized sample looks fantastic. I should have gone with titanium grey instead of boring old black.
Indeed. I think I would like to change my silver to Titanium Gray/Cyan to be honest :p
Could we? Is it too late?
I’d like to add genuine stabs to my order too if I could.
To add things like stabs you should be always in time, to totally change your order i don't know to be honest and you should ask directly to Vincent via mail.
I sent an email more than 10 days ago and still haven't heard back. Clearly the email response time needs a little work.
I sent an email more than 10 days ago and still haven't heard back. Clearly the email response time needs a little work.
I sent and received a response within a day.
Stated too late for order changes at this point if anyone was curious.
any updates?
I sent an email more than 10 days ago and still haven't heard back. Clearly the email response time needs a little work.
I sent and received a response within a day.
Stated too late for order changes at this point if anyone was curious.
That's a shame. I'm still waiting to hear back after following up several times. I'll be pretty annoyed if 11 days ago when i sent my first email there still would have been time to change.
I sent an email more than 10 days ago and still haven't heard back. Clearly the email response time needs a little work.
I sent and received a response within a day.
Stated too late for order changes at this point if anyone was curious.
That's a shame. I'm still waiting to hear back after following up several times. I'll be pretty annoyed if 11 days ago when i sent my first email there still would have been time to change.
I have also been getting replies within 24 hours, it might be worth checking the e-mail address your sending stuff to.
Went ahead and joined the GB earlier from the site, are we supposed to receive any confirmation e-mail or invoice after filling out the form?You will get invoice with such as M001 M214 etc.The PCB switch hole is 1.5mm,so there should be some holtites ok for it in foreign country
EDIT: Also do we know if the PCB will be compatible with any holtites?
Hi Seth,which mail do you send to?I just read it with my enterprice mail...Has replied you alreadyMan, that unanodized sample looks fantastic. I should have gone with titanium grey instead of boring old black.
Indeed. I think I would like to change my silver to Titanium Gray/Cyan to be honest :p
Could we? Is it too late?
I’d like to add genuine stabs to my order too if I could.
To add things like stabs you should be always in time, to totally change your order i don't know to be honest and you should ask directly to Vincent via mail.
I sent an email more than 10 days ago and still haven't heard back. Clearly the email response time needs a little work.
i wish the keys sat deeper in the case, i really hate seeing the bottom of the keycaps
i wish the keys sat deeper in the case, i really hate seeing the bottom of the keycaps
'The gap between keycaps and case is smaller in the new sample due the reduced curve in the internal angles'
I assume this means that the case will be slightly higher profile than the one just shown?
Either way, looks great so far
We still on track to ship this month?
We still on track to ship this month?
He said if everything is ok with the new sample (which is what he expect at this point) the cnc production should end about march 28 or so but later needs to be anodized, packed and shipped. Not sure at this point, but consider a 1-2 week delay can happen due the amount of orders +cny things (my guess).
Not sure if he does the cnc/ano/pack/ship in batches or all togheter, in the first case it's on track, in the second one no.
Alright pals, got some photos from Vincent on Skype, note there is a new revisioned sample incoming. Also some info from Vincent:
>READ<
- The line that you see near the bevels is due a rushed anodization after cny, needs more brushing, will be fixed
- The gap between keycaps and case is smaller in the new sample due the reduced curve in the internal angles
>ALBUMS<
Anodized black old sample (read above) https://imgur.com/a/yfOCB
PCB Color sample (Matte black vs shiny, MATTE was picked): https://imgur.com/a/RZ74YShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/ecyBTdg.png)
Alright pals, got some photos from Vincent on Skype, note there is a new revisioned sample incoming. Also some info from Vincent:Hopefully this wont look like some floating keycaps. Thought it would be like be kbdfans cases that the caps inside the bezels. I hate floating design. Hope i didnt waste money on this one :-[
>READ<
- The line that you see near the bevels is due a rushed anodization after cny, needs more brushing, will be fixed
- The gap between keycaps and case is smaller in the new sample due the reduced curve in the internal angles
>ALBUMS<
Anodized black old sample (read above) https://imgur.com/a/yfOCB
PCB Color sample (Matte black vs shiny, MATTE was picked): https://imgur.com/a/RZ74YShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/ecyBTdg.png)
Alright pals, got some photos from Vincent on Skype, note there is a new revisioned sample incoming. Also some info from Vincent:Hopefully this wont look like some floating keycaps. Thought it would be like be kbdfans cases that the caps inside the bezels. I hate floating design. Hope i didnt waste money on this one :-[
>READ<
- The line that you see near the bevels is due a rushed anodization after cny, needs more brushing, will be fixed
- The gap between keycaps and case is smaller in the new sample due the reduced curve in the internal angles
>ALBUMS<
Anodized black old sample (read above) https://imgur.com/a/yfOCB
PCB Color sample (Matte black vs shiny, MATTE was picked): https://imgur.com/a/RZ74YShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/ecyBTdg.png)
Are there any confirmation regarding whether color changes are possible? :thumb:
Well, cant say im not excited because ive really wanted a 96key for the longest time. Hoping it wouldnt disappoint :)Alright pals, got some photos from Vincent on Skype, note there is a new revisioned sample incoming. Also some info from Vincent:Hopefully this wont look like some floating keycaps. Thought it would be like be kbdfans cases that the caps inside the bezels. I hate floating design. Hope i didnt waste money on this one :-[
>READ<
- The line that you see near the bevels is due a rushed anodization after cny, needs more brushing, will be fixed
- The gap between keycaps and case is smaller in the new sample due the reduced curve in the internal angles
>ALBUMS<
Anodized black old sample (read above) https://imgur.com/a/yfOCB
PCB Color sample (Matte black vs shiny, MATTE was picked): https://imgur.com/a/RZ74YShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/ecyBTdg.png)
As you can see from the album, they are not floating (the walls should be 0.5-1mm higher than caps properly inserted)
From the top, of course you can see something, just like kbdfans. Also the distance between the edges and the keycaps will be smaller.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/3eQf5J0.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/uRx2qoy.png)
Are there any confirmation regarding whether color changes are possible? :thumb:
been making a customs wooden hand rest for this board, what is the length of this ;D
What sort of time frame are we looking at for delivery? Really looking forward to the build :)
Here are the picked colors from Vincent!
Rose gold/Pink:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/AL6PciV.png)
Blue (the darker one on the right):Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/0M2Raqs.png)
Cyan (the lighter one on the left):Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/GNHQUdu.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/BAQEJJS.png)
Orange:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/IVb1ATn.png)
Black:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/sSXp4RL.png)
Titanium:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/7lYnDse.png)
Red:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/QHDHikV.png)
Purple:
TBD
Here are the picked colors from Vincent!
Rose gold/Pink:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/AL6PciV.png)
Blue (the darker one on the right):Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/0M2Raqs.png)
Cyan (the lighter one on the left):Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/GNHQUdu.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/BAQEJJS.png)
Orange:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/IVb1ATn.png)
Black:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/sSXp4RL.png)
Titanium:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/7lYnDse.png)
Red:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/QHDHikV.png)
Purple:
TBD
Is that the gold ano color, next to the orange one?
Here are the picked colors from Vincent!
Rose gold/Pink:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/AL6PciV.png)
Blue (the darker one on the right):Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/0M2Raqs.png)
Cyan (the lighter one on the left):Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/GNHQUdu.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/BAQEJJS.png)
Orange:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/IVb1ATn.png)
Black:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/sSXp4RL.png)
Titanium (should be darker in person, due the light might seems like it's a silver):Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/7lYnDse.png)
Red:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/QHDHikV.png)
Purple:
TBD
Here are the picked colors from Vincent!
Rose gold/Pink:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/AL6PciV.png)
Blue (the darker one on the right):Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/0M2Raqs.png)
Cyan (the lighter one on the left):Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/GNHQUdu.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/BAQEJJS.png)
Orange:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/IVb1ATn.png)
Black:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/sSXp4RL.png)
Titanium (should be darker in person, due the light might seems like it's a silver):Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/7lYnDse.png)
Red:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/QHDHikV.png)
Purple:
TBD
The titanium seems very light (even accounting for light), but still excited.
Thanks for being a "bridge" between Vincent and us with updates :)
Is the 6U spacebar support for centered or off-center stem?
Also great anod shots
Is the 6U spacebar support for centered or off-center stem?
Also great anod shots
ThanksIs the 6U spacebar support for centered or off-center stem?
Also great anod shots
Got the answer: Only Off-centered
It's already April! Oh how time flies. Hoping that this is still on track for shipping around the 15th of this month. :D
It's already April! Oh how time flies. Hoping that this is still on track for shipping around the 15th of this month. :D
I'm assuming this is shipping from China, so I wouldn't necessarily expect delivery this month.
Any update on this?Vincent said it was going to ship on 15th, but if you want a definitive answer, you can ask Vincent(through Aliexpress, as he is not very active on GH) or Jkaos, as he seems to be handling comunication for the GB.
Any update on this?Vincent said it was going to ship on 15th, but if you want a definitive answer, you can ask Vincent(through Aliexpress, as he is not very active on GH) or Jkaos, as he seems to be handling comunication for the GB.
i saw other pics of the sample unpolished tho, looks good but can't post rn, just wait :D
Any update on this?Vincent said it was going to ship on 15th, but if you want a definitive answer, you can ask Vincent(through Aliexpress, as he is not very active on GH) or Jkaos, as he seems to be handling comunication for the GB.
He was collecting pics to show and this will surely happen before starting to ship. But no news yet, i guess the shipping of the first batch (100/100/100) is still planned for that date, so mid April. Also there is some sort of festival in China right now, i don't remember the name of it, so Vincent isn't at work right now.
On a side note, i saw other pics of the sample unpolished tho, looks good but can't post rn, just wait :D
The Epbt Sushi set I ordered just came in! Now all that's left is the Melody :D
The Epbt Sushi set I ordered just came in! Now all that's left is the Melody :D
what color Melody did you order to go with?
I got a gold one & will be waiting on the Red Samurai set to put on it.
The Epbt Sushi set I ordered just came in! Now all that's left is the Melody :D
what color Melody did you order to go with?
I got a gold one & will be waiting on the Red Samurai set to put on it.
I went with cyan and the acrylic bottom. Yours sounds awesome!
Oh man I saw this board once a few months ago and then couldn’t find it forever. I was convinced I had just imagined it. I only just today found out it was real and I missed the group buy by a long shot. I would buy this in a heartbeat now if there was an R2 or extra stock
Do you think we will get pictures by the end of the week? I'm going excited to get mine.
What’s the latest?? So ready for this!!!
Asked Vincent via Aliexpress again, apparently shipping starts next week
Asked Vincent via Aliexpress again, apparently shipping starts next week
For the first 100 might actually start this week, i guess "next week" is just a safer bet. Asking for pics now btw.
Can't wait to get mine!
What switches, LEDs and keycaps you guys planning on equipping it with?
Can't wait to get mine!Kailh box navy thick click, ice blue LEDs and SA Calm Depths :D went with gray case and cyan plate.
What switches, LEDs and keycaps you guys planning on equipping it with?
Can't wait to get mine!
What switches, LEDs and keycaps you guys planning on equipping it with?
What switches, LEDs and keycaps you guys planning on equipping it with?
Can't wait to get mine!Kailh box navy thick click, ice blue LEDs and SA Calm Depths :D went with gray case and cyan plate.
What switches, LEDs and keycaps you guys planning on equipping it with?
You can mount them under the switch and then put the switch on top!Can't wait to get mine!Kailh box navy thick click, ice blue LEDs and SA Calm Depths :D went with gray case and cyan plate.
What switches, LEDs and keycaps you guys planning on equipping it with?
How are you going to mount the leds on the boxes? Inside?
Is it normal 3mm LEDs?
Can't wait to get mine!
What switches, LEDs and keycaps you guys planning on equipping it with?
Can't wait to get mine!
What switches, LEDs and keycaps you guys planning on equipping it with?
Can't wait to get mine!
What switches, LEDs and keycaps you guys planning on equipping it with?
Can't wait to get mine!
What switches, LEDs and keycaps you guys planning on equipping it with?
Cool i'm the only one with Gold on Gold bottom + Silent Red + SA Retro.
Cyan top with acrylic bottom and cherry speed silvers. Hopefully the holetites I have fit and I can try swapping out for these zilents to try them out. GMK Miami caps and a Shishi Cyanara.
I’m doing gold on gold with either gateron greens or kailh pro purples. With yellow LEDs and GMK Red Samurai. :p
Seems like quite a few people when with Titanium Gray top + Cyan Bottom.
Putting Box Navies with DSA Legacy on mine, gonna switch to SA Pulse when the current drop ships.
Stoked for this, I don't think I'll be in the first batch though :(
I'm assuming the PayPal invoice number "Mxxx" corresponds with the order in which they were purchased. Mine is a rather low number given I order right after the GB opened.i assume that order of shipping depends on the order of anodizing.
Well if that's true i'm way down on that list at 170's.
Just got an email from Vincent to confirm shipping info. Hype? #23I'm #24, wassup neighbor :thumb:
So, this keyboard supports qmk, I want to program my layout ahead of time so I can flash it as soon as I get it assembled, can anyone point me in the right direction on starting that?
I'm #35, very excited! I have spent the last 8:30h opening and lubing some tealios... and I'm still only at 60/99 (https://i.imgur.com/pQHs4eP.jpg), going to finish tomorrow.
I'm #35, very excited! I have spent the last 8:30h opening and lubing some tealios... and I'm still only at 60/99 (https://i.imgur.com/pQHs4eP.jpg), going to finish tomorrow.
Oh man, I have 100 zilents coming in that I need to do the same. Which lube are you using?
I'm #35, very excited! I have spent the last 8:30h opening and lubing some tealios... and I'm still only at 60/99 (https://i.imgur.com/pQHs4eP.jpg), going to finish tomorrow.
Oh man, I have 100 zilents coming in that I need to do the same. Which lube are you using?
I’m slow cuz it’s my first time lubing but after a lot of different recommendations from people I ended up going: Krytox VPF 1514 for the spring and GPL 204 for the stem. However instead I would actually recommend Tribosys 3204 as it’s a little thinner (then GPL 204) and way more cost efficient.
Again I'm new to more custom boards so I have no idea how it works, do the LEDs go under the switches?
SO excited to see everyone's final product!
I don't really know how to explain it, but this pic should be helpful
just my 0.02$, don't use 3mm led if you plan to use cherry profile cap
I read that it's DHL (not sure if that changed)
(massdrop also ships from NJ)
Well if that's true i'm way down on that list at 170's.
Atleast you aren't #265, I'm pretty sure I was the last order, guessing May is optimistic for me
I read that it's DHL (not sure if that changed)
(massdrop also ships from NJ)
Yeah I know that, but the only drop I’m in currently is Tokyo60 and that’s not supposed to ship until August. Plus it says the package is 10lbs . Just trying to figure out what it is lol
And the contents are a surprise?I read that it's DHL (not sure if that changed)
(massdrop also ships from NJ)
Yeah I know that, but the only drop I’m in currently is Tokyo60 and that’s not supposed to ship until August. Plus it says the package is 10lbs . Just trying to figure out what it is lol
10lbs might be the Melody premium kit.
Any updates on pictures?
I read that it's DHL (not sure if that changed)
(massdrop also ships from NJ)
Yeah I know that, but the only drop I’m in currently is Tokyo60 and that’s not supposed to ship until August. Plus it says the package is 10lbs . Just trying to figure out what it is lol
10lbs might be the Melody premium kit.
When there will be pics of the final thing of EVERY kit, you will see these pics here.
Also when you will see the pics, it will also mean that the batch is probably already in transit.
The boards come pre-flashed right?
Can someone provide me/help me program it to the "standard" 96 layout like the one on in the title photo? I have no experience with QMK. https://i.imgur.com/9o0a6XF.png. I chose the nav-less layout and now I wan't to change it :(
Zilents and sip sockets are on their way. Does anyone have any tips for [a noon] to install them?
Zilents and sip sockets are on their way. Does anyone have any tips for [a noon] to install them?
How: Put the sip socket in the switch, close the switch, put the led in to make the sockets straight, solder switch+sip sockets.
Tip: Do NOT install sip sockets :)
just my 0.02$, don't use 3mm led if you plan to use cherry profile cap:/ I planned on using cherry profile keycaps with 3mm LEDs... would it be better for me to just not use LEDs at all? I’m kind of indefferent about the lights, was just a nice addition/bonus.
Zilents and sip sockets are on their way. Does anyone have any tips for [a noon] to install them?
How: Put the sip socket in the switch, close the switch, put the led in to make the sockets straight, solder switch+sip sockets.
Tip: Do NOT install sip sockets :)
Oh I mean the other type of sockets for the switches, not LEDs.
just my 0.02$, don't use 3mm led if you plan to use cherry profile cap:/ I planned on using cherry profile keycaps with 3mm LEDs... would it be better for me to just not use LEDs at all? I’m kind of indefferent about the lights, was just a nice addition/bonus.
just my 0.02$, don't use 3mm led if you plan to use cherry profile cap:/ I planned on using cherry profile keycaps with 3mm LEDs... would it be better for me to just not use LEDs at all? I’m kind of indefferent about the lights, was just a nice addition/bonus.
No leds or 1.8mm leds.
Not sure what color you want, but you can find enough colors with 1.8mm and that one is ok with any keycap
just my 0.02$, don't use 3mm led if you plan to use cherry profile cap:/ I planned on using cherry profile keycaps with 3mm LEDs... would it be better for me to just not use LEDs at all? I’m kind of indefferent about the lights, was just a nice addition/bonus.
No leds or 1.8mm leds.
Not sure what color you want, but you can find enough colors with 1.8mm and that one is ok with any keycap
Alright, was going to go Ice Blue. Can't seem to find a light blue / cyan colour in 1.8mm LEDs.
just my 0.02$, don't use 3mm led if you plan to use cherry profile cap:/ I planned on using cherry profile keycaps with 3mm LEDs... would it be better for me to just not use LEDs at all? I’m kind of indefferent about the lights, was just a nice addition/bonus.
No leds or 1.8mm leds.
Not sure what color you want, but you can find enough colors with 1.8mm and that one is ok with any keycap
Alright, was going to go Ice Blue. Can't seem to find a light blue / cyan colour in 1.8mm LEDs.
mehkey has some cyan-ish 1.8mm leds https://mehkee.com/products/leds-2x3x4mm-and-1-8mm-1?variant=45263792335
Will we get shipping notification via email when they ship?
Any update? Last word was shipping starts the 15th, but now there's a problem with the CNC legend on the back? What's the status?
Any update? Last word was shipping starts the 15th, but now there's a problem with the CNC legend on the back? What's the status?
An update would be nice! I haven’t gotten any emails since placing my two orders.
Invoices M102 & M126
First batch has started shipping out if you look through the last page or so of posts in this thread.
First batch has started shipping out if you look through the last page or so of posts in this thread.
No, I don't think that's the case. No one posted that they actually received their shipping notification.
First batch has started shipping out if you look through the last page or so of posts in this thread.
No, I don't think that's the case. No one posted that they actually received their shipping notification.
Now it comes to final test stage before shipment.Frist 100 orders will be shipped very soon,then 100-200,then 200-300.So pls confirm your address and phone No for express shipping needs.
First batch has started shipping out if you look through the last page or so of posts in this thread.
No, I don't think that's the case. No one posted that they actually received their shipping notification.
I'm order 014 and I haven't had a shipping notification yet, the only email I have had regarding shipping was Apr 16 which just said:QuoteNow it comes to final test stage before shipment.Frist 100 orders will be shipped very soon,then 100-200,then 200-300.So pls confirm your address and phone No for express shipping needs.
I sent him an email earlier on so hopefully he'll get back to me :)
Can someone please help? I've posted on the reddit thread, emailed and posted here. My address is wrong and I need to correct before it ships. Please let me know what I'm supposed to do.
This looks better than the Kira, anyone feels the same?Absolutely agree
Can someone please help? I've posted on the reddit thread, emailed and posted here. My address is wrong and I need to correct before it ships. Please let me know what I'm supposed to do.
mod edit: personal information removed. Please use PMs to communicate this sort of thing.
mod edit: personal information removed. Please use PMs to communicate this sort of thing.
For mods: these are just the mails/skype to contact Vincent and should be used in case someone has something to say about his order, he also shared these contacts here in the first page. Not sure why it got deleted, Vincent is ok to share these information, in fact he wants customers to contact him on mails and eventually skype if he they don't get any reply via mail (first channel of communication for the orders are mails)
This looks better than the Kira, anyone feels the same?
This looks better than the Kira, anyone feels the same?
Most definitely. Only thing missing from this are hot-swap sockets and some RGB underglow for the alu bottom. But for the price it definitely cant be beat. Really hoping to see the finished product this week though.
This looks better than the Kira, anyone feels the same?
Most definitely. Only thing missing from this are hot-swap sockets and some RGB underglow for the alu bottom. But for the price it definitely cant be beat. Really hoping to see the finished product this week though.
Sockets are good for me since i use the standard layout, but the actual sockets are a big limit, not allowing multiple layouts.
For the RGB on the alu base, i agree even tho i don't appreciate rgb that much
This looks better than the Kira, anyone feels the same?
Most definitely. Only thing missing from this are hot-swap sockets and some RGB underglow for the alu bottom. But for the price it definitely cant be beat. Really hoping to see the finished product this week though.
Sockets are good for me since i use the standard layout, but the actual sockets are a big limit, not allowing multiple layouts.
For the RGB on the alu base, i agree even tho i don't appreciate rgb that much
First batch has started shipping out if you look through the last page or so of posts in this thread.
No, I don't think that's the case. No one posted that they actually received their shipping notification.
I'm order 014 and I haven't had a shipping notification yet, the only email I have had regarding shipping was Apr 16 which just said:QuoteNow it comes to final test stage before shipment.Frist 100 orders will be shipped very soon,then 100-200,then 200-300.So pls confirm your address and phone No for express shipping needs.
I sent him an email earlier on so hopefully he'll get back to me :)
This looks better than the Kira, anyone feels the same?
Most definitely. Only thing missing from this are hot-swap sockets and some RGB underglow for the alu bottom. But for the price it definitely cant be beat. Really hoping to see the finished product this week though.
They say orders 1-100 will ship soon, I am M100, but haven't gotten any notifications or confirmations either.
This looks better than the Kira, anyone feels the same?
Most definitely. Only thing missing from this are hot-swap sockets and some RGB underglow for the alu bottom. But for the price it definitely cant be beat. Really hoping to see the finished product this week though.
Sockets are good for me since i use the standard layout, but the actual sockets are a big limit, not allowing multiple layouts.
For the RGB on the alu base, i agree even tho i don't appreciate rgb that much
Yeah, Kira is definitely having more technology in there. But this has better look.
Hey KaosJ, do you happen to know the height of the case at the front? I tried to email Vincent, but I don't want to be too big of a pain in the ass since I'm sure he's busy finishing some people's orders. Only trying to find out to get a wrist rest for the board.
Yeah imagine that purple wont be in the first 100 orders
They say orders 1-100 will ship soon, I am M100, but haven't gotten any notifications or confirmations either.
If you are in the first 100 orders, doesn't mean necessary that you are in the batch. Order processed in order but is not always possible.
Hey KaosJ, do you happen to know the height of the case at the front? I tried to email Vincent, but I don't want to be too big of a pain in the ass since I'm sure he's busy finishing some people's orders. Only trying to find out to get a wrist rest for the board.
I'm not sure if it was changed for the height too (i don't think so) and the older one was like that:
Note: you have to consider rubber feets too, so add at least 2/3mm
- Before the curve/bevel : 16.5mm (with feets probably ~19mm)
- After the curve/bevel : 20.4mm (with feets probably ~23mm)
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/r8GKfY5.png)
Yeah imagine that purple wont be in the first 100 orders
They say orders 1-100 will ship soon, I am M100, but haven't gotten any notifications or confirmations either.
If you are in the first 100 orders, doesn't mean necessary that you are in the batch. Order processed in order but is not always possible.
Hey KaosJ, do you happen to know the height of the case at the front? I tried to email Vincent, but I don't want to be too big of a pain in the ass since I'm sure he's busy finishing some people's orders. Only trying to find out to get a wrist rest for the board.
I'm not sure if it was changed for the height too (i don't think so) and the older one was like that:
Note: you have to consider rubber feets too, so add at least 2/3mm
- Before the curve/bevel : 16.5mm (with feets probably ~19mm)
- After the curve/bevel : 20.4mm (with feets probably ~23mm)
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/r8GKfY5.png)
Thank you a ton! Is it too quick to say I love you?
Yeah I got purple with order 70 and I guess I'm not on the first 100 eitherYeah imagine that purple wont be in the first 100 orders
They say orders 1-100 will ship soon, I am M100, but haven't gotten any notifications or confirmations either.
If you are in the first 100 orders, doesn't mean necessary that you are in the batch. Order processed in order but is not always possible.
There are only 5 purple in the first batch of 100, mine isn't in the first batch either (yeah i got purple)
Does anyone have a (very) rough idea as to when orders #200-300 could ship? Is it something like 1-ish week, or 1-ish month?
Just got my Zilents in the mail and cannot wait to put 'em on my Melody.
Any word on the Candykeys proxy orders? Does it ship out at the end or in the same continous flow?
Does anyone have a (very) rough idea as to when orders #200-300 could ship? Is it something like 1-ish week, or 1-ish month?
Just got my Zilents in the mail and cannot wait to put 'em on my Melody.
If everything goes well, it should be a continuous flow (e.g. a batch ends to ship, the next one starts soon). Expect 1/2 week for the second batch at the worse
My invoice is order M005, yall have any ideas when itll ship?
When are they looking to have all orders shipped out by? I understand if this is an unrealistic question lol
When are they looking to have all orders shipped out by? I understand if this is an unrealistic question lol
No idea. The Vincent's intent is to have a continuous flow as I said before, so if everything goes smoothly, these should be 0/7 days between the shipping of one batch and the next one.
Mainly because the first batch was a problem because he had to fix a ton of things, so batch 2/3 SHOULD be easy easy (also batch 3 should be some extras too so most of the people are in the first 2 batches).
For example during the first batch there was a lot of QC: e.g. the acrylic part turned out to be much more expensive than expected (actually more expensive than the alu at the end) because there was a lot of waste and errors on acrylic and it wasn't acceptable. Same for the engrave which was in fact changed. These are examples on why the first batch was soo slow, but the next batch will not have that long troubleshooting stage.
No idea. The Vincent's intent is to have a continuous flow as I said before, so if everything goes smoothly, these should be 0/7 days between the shipping of one batch and the next one.Thanks for keeping us updated! Can't wait to get mine :thumb:
Mainly because the first batch was a problem because he had to fix a ton of things, so batch 2/3 SHOULD be easy easy (also batch 3 should be some extras too so most of the people are in the first 2 batches).
For example during the first batch there was a lot of QC: e.g. the acrylic part turned out to be much more expensive than expected (actually more expensive than the alu at the end) because there was a lot of waste and errors on acrylic and it wasn't acceptable. Same for the engrave which was in fact changed. These are examples on why the first batch was soo slow, but the next batch will not have that long troubleshooting stage.
When are they looking to have all orders shipped out by? I understand if this is an unrealistic question lol
No idea. The Vincent's intent is to have a continuous flow as I said before, so if everything goes smoothly, these should be 0/7 days between the shipping of one batch and the next one.
Mainly because the first batch was a problem because he had to fix a ton of things, so batch 2/3 SHOULD be easy easy (also batch 3 should be some extras too so most of the people are in the first 2 batches).
For example during the first batch there was a lot of QC: e.g. the acrylic part turned out to be much more expensive than expected (actually more expensive than the alu at the end) because there was a lot of waste and errors on acrylic and it wasn't acceptable. Same for the engrave which was in fact changed. These are examples on why the first batch was soo slow, but the next batch will not have that long troubleshooting stage.
Thanks for keeping us updated with this :thumb: it's my first GB and your communication with Vincent has reassured me this won't be a horror story like other GBs.
My invoice is order M005, yall have any ideas when itll ship?
If the color/kit allowed, it should be this batch since you are #5 (so you should have got the mail with address confirmation).
If you didn't got the mail, it will be probably the next batch
My invoice is order M005, yall have any ideas when itll ship?
If the color/kit allowed, it should be this batch since you are #5 (so you should have got the mail with address confirmation).
If you didn't got the mail, it will be probably the next batch
Well it was titanium grey and black plate so i cant imagine it would be that far down list... and i still dont have a shipping notification....
Sooo looking forward to getting one of these some day, aftermarket or R2 if there ever is oneThere won't be an R2.
Update coming today
Update coming today
Update coming today
Too soon. Update tomorrow, Vincent needs some confirmations from some factories.
For now, enjoy some pics: https://imgur.com/a/r33uY7n
Update coming today
Too soon. Update tomorrow, Vincent needs some confirmations from some factories.
For now, enjoy some pics: https://imgur.com/a/r33uY7n
These look great! I can't wait to see all of the colors. Do we have any insight on how many extras there will be?
Kinda sad I went with an acrylic bottom. That brass weight tho :(
Here is a update on the Melody96 GB. Sorry if we have been quiet recently with no updates but we are really busy in the production and problem solving, so we let other people trying to handle the communication (mainly jkaos).
Anyway! Here are some pics of the Alu kit of the keyboard:
ALBUM! (Alu kit) (Same pictures KaosJ posted yesterday)
The acrylic bottom is sandblasting now, we wanted to have everything ready before showing photos, but it is really the time for an update at this point. So we will show the acrylic when we have it sandblasted. Very soon.
Now, during the last weeks we had a lot of quality control and delays, some examples of problems we had to sort out:
Acrylic bottom was really problematic, with a lot of waste of material and many produced parts didn't pass our QC check.
In fact the acrylic bottom ended up to be even more expensive than the Alu bottom for us, making almost no profit on it (well the final price was too low probably), but still we went ahead and we sorted out all the issues and produced it.
We had to change the electroplating factory for brass weight and plate, the first factory had a really dark one, so we had to search and find a good factory for it.
The brass engrave was also redesigned, it was not looking that well on brass and was really problematic on the acrylic bottom, creating even more acrylic waste.
Deadlines not respected by some factories, the initial CNY and some other things ****ed up the whole production plan/ETA.
The environment department investigated anodizing and brushing factory very strictly this year. In fact the Anodizing factory was forced to close for some days and negociated with them and had to do many documents to re-open the factory.
When we had to get things shipped, our multiple refuses of the object due mistakes or things not meeting our standards, made the thing even slower.
As many of you know, we got many orders so the production was divided in 3 batches of 100. When possible, we ship in order of paid invoices.
What probably all of you want to hear now, WHEN MELODY IS SHIPPING?
2 May: keyboards with alu bottom with silver plate starts to ship (around 30 keyboards of batch 1)
5 May: Other keyboards with alu bottom of batch 1 with plates that are not silver (brass and all the other colors)
7 May: Acrylic bases all ready and checked
9-10 May: Batch 2 which contains alu of any color and acrylic starts to ship.
Batch 3: continuous flow after batch 2 ends.
EU proxy should be one of the last to ship, batch 3 (different orders)
Sorry for these delays but we did our best to assure that everything has the quality that users expect from us, often giving up part of the profit to do it.
I hope this clears things up. You will receive a mail with the address confirmation when your keyboard is about to ship.
Hello GH!
Here is an update on the Melody96 GB.
Sorry if we have been quiet recently with no updates but we are really busy in the production and problem solving, so we let other people trying to handle the communication (mainly jkaos).
SHIPPING
As many of you know, we got many orders so the production was divided in 3 batches of 100. When possible, we ship in order of paid invoices.
What probably all of you want to hear now, WHEN MELODY IS SHIPPING?
- 2 May: keyboards with alu bottom with silver plate starts to ship (around 30 keyboards of batch 1)
- 5 May: Other keyboards with alu bottom of batch 1 with plates that are not silver (brass and all the other colors)
- 7 May: Acrylic bases all ready and checked
- 9-10 May: Batch 2 which contains alu of any color and acrylic starts to ship.
- Batch 3: continuous flow after batch 2 ends.
- EU proxy should be one of the last to ship, batch 3 (different orders)
PROBLEM SOLVING
Now, during the last weeks we had a lot of quality control and delays, some examples of problems we had to sort out:
- Acrylic bottom was really problematic, with a lot of waste of material and many produced parts didn't pass our QC check.
In fact the acrylic bottom ended up to be even more expensive than the Alu bottom for us, making almost no profit on it (well the final price was too low probably), but still we went ahead and we sorted out all the issues and produced it.- We had to change the electroplating factory for brass weight and plate, the first factory had a really dark one, so we had to search and find a good factory for it.
- The brass engrave was also redesigned, it was not looking that well on brass and was really problematic on the acrylic bottom, creating even more acrylic waste.
- Deadlines not respected by some factories, the initial CNY and some other things ****ed up the whole production plan/ETA.
- The environment department investigated anodizing and brushing factory very strictly this year. In fact the Anodizing factory was forced to close for some days and negociated with them and had to do many documents to re-open the factory.
- When we had to get things shipped, our multiple refuses of the object due mistakes or things not meeting our standards, made the thing even slower.
Sorry for these delays but we did our best to assure that everything has the quality that users expect from us, often giving up part of our profit to do it.
I hope this clears things up. You will receive a mail with the address confirmation when your keyboard is about to ship.
PHOTOS
Jkaos/KaosJ already showed the album, but here you go again:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/vr0o2mv.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/PFsfHFO.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/UhehgZj.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/nqlMYUU.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/cBHssf6.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/56iHk2W.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/yUJt5Bv.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/ZdotWNd.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/IXhW9YB.jpg)
Contacts
Vincent.zhao@ymdkey.com
Vincent.zhao.889@gmail.com
Greetings,
Vincent/YMDK
Order number is 40, but I have an acrylic base, so 9-10th at the earliest I assume.
Though I requested assembly so probably even later.
Looking forward to it! I think I need a new spacebar though.
I also got the assembled service, and they couldn't find my layout last week. So I am assuming they are assembling now, and just waiting for the acrylic parts to come in
Ahh good point. I guess it makes a lot more sense to do that instead of waiting for everything to arrive.Yea shipping is from China.
I wonder where they are shipping from? China I assume? I am in Japan, so it will hopefully arrive pretty darn soon.
Still nothing on my order....I suppose they are later then expected once again, but I’m sure it will all be worth it to recieve a (hopefully) flawless board. Rather spend more time making sure all the boards pass the QC then shipping them with flaws.
I'm a bit confused by the batch system and timelines. Not overly worried but like others starting to get excited. I was order number 223, alu bottom and non-silver plate. Does the type of order supersede the order number? or since i don't have acrylic base and not in europe put me in the earlier group?
I haven't received anything, just trying to get an idea as i'll be traveling the latter half of this month.
I wonder where they are shipping from? China I assume? I am in Japan, so it will hopefully arrive pretty darn soon.
It seems like if you don't get any confirmation by end of week/next week it will be in batch 3. But I could be completely wrong.i guess that's the case, that 200+ should be batch 3
ne updates availne updates avail
Still nothing on my order....what yoy got? (i assume you saw the last Vincent update regarding shipping)
I was order number 006...I'm a bit confused by the batch system and timelines. Not overly worried but like others starting to get excited. I was order number 223, alu bottom and non-silver plate. Does the type of order supersede the order number? or since i don't have acrylic base and not in europe put me in the earlier group?
I haven't received anything, just trying to get an idea as i'll be traveling the latter half of this month.
It seems like if you don't get any confirmation by end of week/next week it will be in batch 3. But I could be completely wrong.
Is it possible to just engraved the brass plate with "Melody96" only? Leave out the "By YMDK"
For the no YMDK thing should be possible as well, lemme ask first. On the side note it's surely possible have it non-engraved at all (few people asked for it)
I was order number 006...I'm a bit confused by the batch system and timelines. Not overly worried but like others starting to get excited. I was order number 223, alu bottom and non-silver plate. Does the type of order supersede the order number? or since i don't have acrylic base and not in europe put me in the earlier group?
I haven't received anything, just trying to get an idea as i'll be traveling the latter half of this month.
It seems like if you don't get any confirmation by end of week/next week it will be in batch 3. But I could be completely wrong.
And Vincent asked for my address and phone number on April 16th, but I've heard nothing after that...
Hm...
Is it possible to just engraved the brass plate with "Melody96" only? Leave out the "By YMDK"
For the no YMDK thing should be possible as well, lemme ask first. On the side note it's surely possible have it non-engraved at all (few people asked for it)
From what I recall on the initial posts in this thread, we had to choose between engraving everything or nothing at all. Not including "by YMDK" wasnt possible.
any updates after batch plan confirmed?
my number is under 100 but still got no emails yet....
I had a quite big order with alu bottom, two tops(purple and grey), two pcb's, Alu and bras plate and stabs leds etc. I was around order numb 60-70 or so. Will my order be shipped before or after 10th of may? Looking forward to getting my board :) (just copy pasting what i said earlier but got ignored.)
I had a quite big order with alu bottom, two tops(purple and grey), two pcb's, Alu and bras plate and stabs leds etc. I was around order numb 60-70 or so. Will my order be shipped before or after 10th of may? Looking forward to getting my board :) (just copy pasting what i said earlier but got ignored.)
I was order number 006...I'm a bit confused by the batch system and timelines. Not overly worried but like others starting to get excited. I was order number 223, alu bottom and non-silver plate. Does the type of order supersede the order number? or since i don't have acrylic base and not in europe put me in the earlier group?
I haven't received anything, just trying to get an idea as i'll be traveling the latter half of this month.
It seems like if you don't get any confirmation by end of week/next week it will be in batch 3. But I could be completely wrong.
And Vincent asked for my address and phone number on April 16th, but I've heard nothing after that...
Hm...
I think most people are just curious because according to vincents' updates the shipping for the first batch should have started a week ago but no one has received a shipping notification yet.I had a quite big order with alu bottom, two tops(purple and grey), two pcb's, Alu and bras plate and stabs leds etc. I was around order numb 60-70 or so. Will my order be shipped before or after 10th of may? Looking forward to getting my board :) (just copy pasting what i said earlier but got ignored.)
I thought i answered you already, i didn't apparently.
Anyway, unless you contact Vincent directly via mail with your order number ( listed items won't work), you can't get an answer here.
On a side note, i suggest to not start to spam his mail since he posted the timeline, and second batch still has to ship. Whatever is the the order, it will be shipped when possible aka when all the items of your order are ready (so yeah a big order might me shipped after a simple silver case+silver plate). Basically, contacting Vincent won't make the order shipping faster. And yeah after May 10 cuz that's the entire batch 2 and batch 3. Probably your is not batch 1 that should have shipped already.
I would say just contact Vincent in case you have to change your address, otherwise you can just wait for the mail of the confirmation of your address pre-shipping and later the shipping notification.
I think most people are just curious because according to vincents' updates the shipping for the first batch should have started a week ago but no one has received a shipping notification yet.
Just got my email this morning to confirm address and shipping, M224, so we're making progress. Neat!
My invoice was M065 but haven't gotten any shipping details yet.
I'm alu top and alu bottom.
I know I ask a lot of random questions, but any idea what the length of the case is?
Which round are you in?
What kind of stabs come with this board?
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Hello :thumb:
Hello :thumb:
Hello :thumb:
Hello :thumb:
Looking great, would love to see a pic of the side of the case. Did you get notification from YMDK or DHL before delivery?
Hello :thumb:
Looking great, would love to see a pic of the side of the case. Did you get notification from YMDK or DHL before delivery?
Yes.
DHL EXPRESS XXXXX from ONE VILLAGE is scheduled for delivery TODAY. Track at XXXXX
I also got a notification for it a couple days ahead. You should get texts.
I'll post more pictures soon.
Hello :thumb:
M024Hello :thumb:God damn that's clean, I'm so excited to receive mine. Going to try polishing the brass weight to match the plate... hopefully it won't be too messy.
What Order # were you?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HT4nrTZm0yxZHfLt2
Here's a bunch of pictures, enjoy!
Problems: Small issue with the brass plate around the vertical line/pipe/backslash. Underside of the plate has a few issues, but I'm not concerned about either really. The weight has some weird patterning on it. I tried cleaning with just water and alcohol, nothing so far. I will be trying something more acidic on it probably.
So far I love it, great board. The weight is extreme! My only scale I had on hand was overloaded when I tried to weigh it. I took some good pictures of the edges for y'all.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HT4nrTZm0yxZHfLt2
Here's a bunch of pictures, enjoy!
Problems: Small issue with the brass plate around the vertical line/pipe/backslash. Underside of the plate has a few issues, but I'm not concerned about either really. The weight has some weird patterning on it. I tried cleaning with just water and alcohol, nothing so far. I will be trying something more acidic on it probably.
So far I love it, great board. The weight is extreme! My only scale I had on hand was overloaded when I tried to weigh it. I took some good pictures of the edges for y'all.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HT4nrTZm0yxZHfLt2
Here's a bunch of pictures, enjoy!
Problems: Small issue with the brass plate around the vertical line/pipe/backslash. Underside of the plate has a few issues, but I'm not concerned about either really. The weight has some weird patterning on it. I tried cleaning with just water and alcohol, nothing so far. I will be trying something more acidic on it probably.
So far I love it, great board. The weight is extreme! My only scale I had on hand was overloaded when I tried to weigh it. I took some good pictures of the edges for y'all.
Titaniumhttps://photos.app.goo.gl/HT4nrTZm0yxZHfLt2
Here's a bunch of pictures, enjoy!
Problems: Small issue with the brass plate around the vertical line/pipe/backslash. Underside of the plate has a few issues, but I'm not concerned about either really. The weight has some weird patterning on it. I tried cleaning with just water and alcohol, nothing so far. I will be trying something more acidic on it probably.
So far I love it, great board. The weight is extreme! My only scale I had on hand was overloaded when I tried to weigh it. I took some good pictures of the edges for y'all.
Thank you! Is this silver or titanium color?
Alu top and acrylic bottom, M0111 ans still no email.. Did something went wrong? Also tried to email Vincent but no answers since 6 days.
I've been waiting on the Calm Depths Maxkey set for like 100 years ;D , so this seems like light speed. Can't wait to get this board and put pulse on it in like another 8 months!
Hey, Don't "settle" for Canvas. That's what I'm putting on mine.I've been waiting on the Calm Depths Maxkey set for like 100 years ;D , so this seems like light speed. Can't wait to get this board and put pulse on it in like another 8 months!
I think people are just getting antsy since it was originally planned to ship at the end of March. I had originally hoped to put GMK Electric on mine (and still do), but il probably need to settle for XDA Canvas Manfred :(
Hey, Don't "settle" for Canvas. That's what I'm putting on mine.I've been waiting on the Calm Depths Maxkey set for like 100 years ;D , so this seems like light speed. Can't wait to get this board and put pulse on it in like another 8 months!
I think people are just getting antsy since it was originally planned to ship at the end of March. I had originally hoped to put GMK Electric on mine (and still do), but il probably need to settle for XDA Canvas Manfred :(
So my brass weight has some sort of tarnish on it which looks like it was may be caused by the bubble wrap, it is coated in some sort material it seems and maybe not directly polished. I'd like to ask what that material may be so that I can correctly either fix the issue or strip it and directly polish the brass. I'm going to try using Coke but I'm not sure it's going to have any effect with this material.
So my brass weight has some sort of tarnish on it which looks like it was may be caused by the bubble wrap, it is coated in some sort material it seems and maybe not directly polished. I'd like to ask what that material may be so that I can correctly either fix the issue or strip it and directly polish the brass. I'm going to try using Coke but I'm not sure it's going to have any effect with this material.that looks like it is underneath the pvd layer. You would have to strip off the protective pvd layer and then polish the brass underneath. Then subject it again to pvd treatment in order to get the same look. Not an easy process, I suggest get a replacement or live with it.
So my brass weight has some sort of tarnish on it which looks like it was may be caused by the bubble wrap, it is coated in some sort material it seems and maybe not directly polished. I'd like to ask what that material may be so that I can correctly either fix the issue or strip it and directly polish the brass. I'm going to try using Coke but I'm not sure it's going to have any effect with this material.that looks like it is underneath the pvd layer. You would have to strip off the protective pvd layer and then polish the brass underneath. Then subject it again to pvd treatment in order to get the same look. Not an easy process, I suggest get a replacement or live with it.
So i just finished building mine and im having trouble programming it with QMK since ive never used it and dont know how to code. Anyone have any good youtube videos or writeups that would help?
Be careful I seems that the melody96 branch hasnt been merged to the official qmk repoSo i just finished building mine and im having trouble programming it with QMK since ive never used it and dont know how to code. Anyone have any good youtube videos or writeups that would help?
I think this top clack video is pretty good:
Be careful I seems that the melody96 branch hasnt been merged to the official qmk repo
I know from Vincent that they work in their private repo, so you can only see it after he merges the branch.Be careful I seems that the melody96 branch hasnt been merged to the official qmk repo
I'm not great with git but do you see a branch out there already?
I know from Vincent that they work in their private repo, so you can only see it after he merges the branch.Be careful I seems that the melody96 branch hasnt been merged to the official qmk repo
I'm not great with git but do you see a branch out there already?
Not necessarily, it's for the ymdk96 which may have a different pcb. Flash at your own risk.I know from Vincent that they work in their private repo, so you can only see it after he merges the branch.Be careful I seems that the melody96 branch hasnt been merged to the official qmk repo
I'm not great with git but do you see a branch out there already?
So i just have to use the base layout for now? i saw the YMDK96 one on github, is that not the right one?
Got slapped with duty fees :( I hate DHL...
There isn't really anything I can show that Woovie hasn't already, except for the Cyan bottom under different lighting: https://imgur.com/a/aSS4fjYGot slapped with duty fees :( I hate DHL...
F
pics tho
There isn't really anything I can show that Woovie hasn't already, except for the Cyan bottom under different lighting: https://imgur.com/a/aSS4fjYGot slapped with duty fees :( I hate DHL...
F
pics tho
If there's anything short of actually building the board anyone would like pictured lmk (I won't be building until later next week sadly.)
The cyan is really hard to reproduce on camera but I would say this is pretty close (irl it's slightly greener): (https://i.imgur.com/U00nuZi.jpg)There isn't really anything I can show that Woovie hasn't already, except for the Cyan bottom under different lighting: https://imgur.com/a/aSS4fjYGot slapped with duty fees :( I hate DHL...
F
pics tho
If there's anything short of actually building the board anyone would like pictured lmk (I won't be building until later next week sadly.)
I'd love to see some more photos of the cyan! Out of curiousity how close do you think the cyan matches the cyan on say gmk skeletor?
Through further inspection and testing of my PCB my reset button was actually fallen out and I had not noticed it at the bottom of the bag... but I don't think it matters too much as I can still "click" it. (https://imgur.com/a/wwBRXyk)
Also, by shorting each key individually the keys to the right of the spacebar (except for alt) seem to be unprogrammed or unconnected (https://i.imgur.com/eBeSQjM.png) hopefully il be able to fix this by just reprogramming the board.
EDIT: for anyone trying to clean up the "blotches" on the brass weight so far I've tried alcohol (did nothing) and lighter fluid (lessened the lighter marks but did nothing to the darker ones)
invoice M001. been a month since i confirmed my address. still no shipping details :confused:
invoice M001. been a month since i confirmed my address. still no shipping details :confused:
Try sending a follow up email. That is what i did and Vincent replied. I got an acrylic bottom and it will be assembled so i guess it will take time.
Maybe a good thing? Gives them time to work out the cosmetic issues with the brass weight.
Also, by shorting each key individually the keys to the right of the spacebar (except for alt) seem to be unprogrammed or unconnected (https://i.imgur.com/eBeSQjM.png) hopefully il be able to fix this by just reprogramming the board.
invoice M001. been a month since i confirmed my address. still no shipping details :confused:
Try sending a follow up email. That is what i did and Vincent replied. I got an acrylic bottom and it will be assembled so i guess it will take time.
I did. No reply yet. Mine was all black alum top/bottom/plate w/ brass weight. unassembled
Any update on the acrylic bottom ones?
Any update on the acrylic bottom ones?
Should either be shipped or getting ready for shipment as most of us with acrylic bottoms have received the email to confirm contact details and address.
Is anyone able to PM me the email address that sent you the address verification or verify if it was the same email listed on the paypal invoice? I'm a bit paranoid that it will slip into spam and I won't catch it.(M116)
Mine came from the email in his signature (Vincent.zhao@ymdkey.com)
Ive just gotten an email regarding the staying to acrylic bottom or choosing alu bottom. Hope mine ships soon ;D
Ive just gotten an email regarding the staying to acrylic bottom or choosing alu bottom. Hope mine ships soon ;D
Ive just gotten an email regarding the staying to acrylic bottom or choosing alu bottom. Hope mine ships soon ;D
Switching to aluminum means we lose the underglow, right?
I would like to switch to aluminum, but I ordered through the EU proxy. Will it be possible to switch in that case?Ive just gotten an email regarding the staying to acrylic bottom or choosing alu bottom. Hope mine ships soon ;D
Switching to aluminum means we lose the underglow, right?
Right. This other acrylic should spread RGB better and is flat with the surface instead of having the same design of the alu version.
I would like to switch to aluminum, but I ordered through the EU proxy. Will it be possible to switch in that case?
I would like to switch to aluminum, but I ordered through the EU proxy. Will it be possible to switch in that case?
I assume the e-mails were already sent out. If you didn't get it, maybe yours was one of the few that already shipped.
I would like to switch to aluminum, but I ordered through the EU proxy. Will it be possible to switch in that case?Ive just gotten an email regarding the staying to acrylic bottom or choosing alu bottom. Hope mine ships soon ;D
Switching to aluminum means we lose the underglow, right?
Right. This other acrylic should spread RGB better and is flat with the surface instead of having the same design of the alu version.
Also anyone know how much it cost for the upgrade?
It is me or I can barely notice the difference between the new ACR and the old one?
Still no shipping info on mine even though my order invoice number was m063. How does the shipping work for europeans outside of the proxy?
Any chance of getting the files to compile our own QMK hex files, or must we use that website?
Yeah, I started to do it yesterday but ran into a roadblock until my PCB arrives. The autogenerated keymaps are in a really strange order and I don't actually have my PCB to confirm its actually correct and fix it.Any chance of getting the files to compile our own QMK hex files, or must we use that website?
You mean the directory? if yes you can just use the qmk site and the json and later download it as zip.
In case no one will do it, i will upload the directory on qmk soon (tm), first i have to edit some files because the wiring is a bit of a mess to understand.
You mean the directory? if yes you can just use the qmk site and the json and later download it as zip.
In case no one will do it, i will upload the directory on qmk soon (tm), first i have to edit some files because the wiring is a bit of a mess to understand.
You mean the directory? if yes you can just use the qmk site and the json and later download it as zip.
In case no one will do it, i will upload the directory on qmk soon (tm), first i have to edit some files because the wiring is a bit of a mess to understand.
I just went to the site and see what you mean by download the zip. Thanks!
But the layout of this file is very different than any other I have used before. I will have to wait till my bored gets in to make sure it's correct.
Yeah, there was a speed bump with the transparent base.
I'm invoice #6, and I still haven't gotten shipping info either, so...
Yeah, there was a speed bump with the transparent base.
I'm invoice #6, and I still haven't gotten shipping info either, so...
I don’t think they are actually sending out shipping information, or at least that is what i heard from those who have received it on reddit.
Has anyone who ordered a black case received shipping info? Seems like it's going to be the last color to ship.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Any news this week?
Anymore people get shipping info at all?
I'm invoices M102 & M126 -- one blue case, one gold case -- Vincent did verify my shipping info on the 22nd, but haven't heard back since.
Just curious!
any word on an official QMK Branch or are we just still stuck waiting?
any word on an official QMK Branch or are we just still stuck waiting?
any word on an official QMK Branch or are we just still stuck waiting?
Nothing official in the repo, but Vincent sent flashing instructions which allow us to recreate all of the needed files to compile in QMK (instead of KBFirmware.com). I think Jkos was working to share his fork. I'm assembling and playing Friday so I can share mine as well.
Edit: woops wrong thread
PS: I got a text with shipping details, but no email notification
You mean the directory? if yes you can just use the qmk site and the json and later download it as zip.
In case no one will do it, i will upload the directory on qmk soon (tm), first i have to edit some files because the wiring is a bit of a mess to understand.
I just went to the site and see what you mean by download the zip. Thanks!
But the layout of this file is very different than any other I have used before. I will have to wait till my bored gets in to make sure it's correct.
http://qmkeyboard.cn/
Once you upload the json you should have from Vincent, you can download the zip at the end (download zip instead of hex), use this way if you are able to make the file from the directory.
Or you can just upload your layout that you get from http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com and later copy the configuration that you can see from the json uploaded on another tab pointed at qmkeyboard.
There should be another way to do it with the QMK configurator (based on mechmerlin).
I usually use the directory method, once i do it, i will upload my directory on the github of qmk.
I emailed Vince and he said mine have been shipped....but I have received no shipping notification from DHL. :/ Kinda nervous.
any word on an official QMK Branch or are we just still stuck waiting?
Apart that im free only 1 day a week this month, i didn't got my keyboard yet so i will not upl it soon. Initially i wanted to test it on another 96 qmk board i have which i think it has the same circuit, but i will just wait for melody at this point.
Not sure why you are waiting tho, you should have the json which inside has the layout the rest of the configuration, you can create your own repository from that specific json. From my repository i just wanted to make it easier for people by sorting in a better way the layouts to just make easier to rebind. This starting from the automated repository created by the qmkfirmware site.
any word on an official QMK Branch or are we just still stuck waiting?
Apart that im free only 1 day a week this month, i didn't got my keyboard yet so i will not upl it soon. Initially i wanted to test it on another 96 qmk board i have which i think it has the same circuit, but i will just wait for melody at this point.
Not sure why you are waiting tho, you should have the json which inside has the layout the rest of the configuration, you can create your own repository from that specific json. From my repository i just wanted to make it easier for people by sorting in a better way the layouts to just make easier to rebind. This starting from the automated repository created by the qmkfirmware site.
This is my first time using QMK so i thought i had to have the official one. How do i get the JSON?
any word on an official QMK Branch or are we just still stuck waiting?
Apart that im free only 1 day a week this month, i didn't got my keyboard yet so i will not upl it soon. Initially i wanted to test it on another 96 qmk board i have which i think it has the same circuit, but i will just wait for melody at this point.
Not sure why you are waiting tho, you should have the json which inside has the layout the rest of the configuration, you can create your own repository from that specific json. From my repository i just wanted to make it easier for people by sorting in a better way the layouts to just make easier to rebind. This starting from the automated repository created by the qmkfirmware site.
This is my first time using QMK so i thought i had to have the official one. How do i get the JSON?
all should be here, base json, some .hex files and a guide
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oJmSfjgs_DugsvloO9VaO5KWvwS4T2OX/view
Here is the qmk documentation: https://docs.qmk.fm/#/
Anyone in the 150+ number with acrylic base that received their order? Or even just shipping information? I'm 176 and 177 and still haven't received any shipping information.
Just got home from Holiday and found mine in my front shed, said it was delivered on 1st June, I was order M014. It seems in the UK they are being delivered by Yodel (At least mine was), I had no tracking info and didn't receive a text or an email saying it was going to be delivered so it was quite a pleasant surprise to see! Titanium Gray top + bottom with brass weight and plate, can share pics if people want to see. I don't have the issue with the residue on the brass weight that others have complained about, there was a layer of cling film/saran wrap around the keyboard + weight that looks like it has prevented it. My Zealios are arriving tomorrow so I should have it built by the weekend! :thumb:
Nah I got it through Vincent, I don't think there was a proxy when I placed my orderJust got home from Holiday and found mine in my front shed, said it was delivered on 1st June, I was order M014. It seems in the UK they are being delivered by Yodel (At least mine was), I had no tracking info and didn't receive a text or an email saying it was going to be delivered so it was quite a pleasant surprise to see! Titanium Gray top + bottom with brass weight and plate, can share pics if people want to see. I don't have the issue with the residue on the brass weight that others have complained about, there was a layer of cling film/saran wrap around the keyboard + weight that looks like it has prevented it. My Zealios are arriving tomorrow so I should have it built by the weekend! :thumb:
Sweet! SO jelly of you, man!
Did you order through Candykeys?
Nah I got it through Vincent, I don't think there was a proxy when I placed my orderJust got home from Holiday and found mine in my front shed, said it was delivered on 1st June, I was order M014. It seems in the UK they are being delivered by Yodel (At least mine was), I had no tracking info and didn't receive a text or an email saying it was going to be delivered so it was quite a pleasant surprise to see! Titanium Gray top + bottom with brass weight and plate, can share pics if people want to see. I don't have the issue with the residue on the brass weight that others have complained about, there was a layer of cling film/saran wrap around the keyboard + weight that looks like it has prevented it. My Zealios are arriving tomorrow so I should have it built by the weekend! :thumb:
Sweet! SO jelly of you, man!
Did you order through Candykeys?
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
Hey just signed up because I am experiencing a problem with this build.
It is a very beautiful board but in R1, two of my keys seem to be dead on the PCB. The two left-most slots (where you would put left shift) do not produce any signal. I have tried out other switches and no keypress will register. I have also tried shorting the plugs on the PCB directly. The first two slots in R1 do not register then either, but other switches on the board do.
Is there any magic trick that I can try out to revive these places on the board? I'd rather not de-solder everything and transfer that to a new board if that is at all possible :'(
Mine arrived today as well, a few scuffs on the brass plate but not too bad.
@Tasteless, did you remove the brass weight from the bottom of the case and remove the plastic film? Definitely looked a lot worse before removing it.
I picked at it and convinced myself I had one of the weights with no plastic. Nope, you are correct and I'm an idiot. Looks much better now. :))Haha I know that feeling, first thought when inspecting it was: "Wow, how the **** do you even manage to damage it that badly?"
Hey just signed up because I am experiencing a problem with this build.
It is a very beautiful board but in R1, two of my keys seem to be dead on the PCB. The two left-most slots (where you would put left shift) do not produce any signal. I have tried out other switches and no keypress will register. I have also tried shorting the plugs on the PCB directly. The first two slots in R1 do not register then either, but other switches on the board do.
Is there any magic trick that I can try out to revive these places on the board? I'd rather not de-solder everything and transfer that to a new board if that is at all possible :'(
Seems like someone said they had a bad/poorly soldered diode they had a fix. want to take a pic of the components in that area?
All i see is grey, anyone received anodized gold? post some pics please!
All i see is grey, anyone received anodized gold? post some pics please!
Anyone have ordered a silver one? I'm wondering what kind of tone the silver has. If anyone has a clear picture of it, will be much appreciated.
I for one will be removing those feet bumpers, yuck!
hmmm, am i seeing things? upper top is gold and bottom half is silver? (Attachment Link) .....nevermind its just the lighting.
hmmm, am i seeing things? upper top is gold and bottom half is silver? (Attachment Link) .....nevermind its just the lighting.
I had a pleasant surprise show up on my doorstep today. I did not receive any shipping notice, so my order (#M169) arrived out of the blue. I had originally ordered a Purple top + acrylic bottom, but decided to go all aluminum with the last production update. Also upgraded to a brass plate that I hadn't selected in my original order. Some pictures:That purple is awesome!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/43Re2v0.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Do4tkxy.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/MhhYYO0.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/wUqyfxx.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/IAOfhtl.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/UTTKMLm.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/GlA3q5k.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/IjNij3o.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/EUgmfPe.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/4F8yC7w.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/F82cLY8.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/81Fzstc.jpg)
As you can see in the last two pictures, there are a few dents on the bottom side of the top case. One on the upper left corner and two on the upper right. The box it was shipped in does not have any dents or signs of rough transit, so I believe this left YMDK with these defects. I'm not too upset to do anything about it (since it's on seldom seen bottom), but I'm just annoyed. I plan on getting things assembled this weekend so hopefully I'll have more photos to share soon.
I had a pleasant surprise show up on my doorstep today. I did not receive any shipping notice, so my order (#M169) arrived out of the blue. I had originally ordered a Purple top + acrylic bottom, but decided to go all aluminum with the last production update. Also upgraded to a brass plate that I hadn't selected in my original order. Some pictures:Makes me salty about buying through the website. There was no option for a purple bottom there, so mine is grey.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/43Re2v0.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Do4tkxy.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/MhhYYO0.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/wUqyfxx.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/IAOfhtl.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/UTTKMLm.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/GlA3q5k.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/IjNij3o.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/EUgmfPe.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/4F8yC7w.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/F82cLY8.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/81Fzstc.jpg)
As you can see in the last two pictures, there are a few dents on the bottom side of the top case. One on the upper left corner and two on the upper right. The box it was shipped in does not have any dents or signs of rough transit, so I believe this left YMDK with these defects. I'm not too upset to do anything about it (since it's on seldom seen bottom), but I'm just annoyed. I plan on getting things assembled this weekend so hopefully I'll have more photos to share soon.
Received mine on Monday, went to start building it today but I noticed there's no screws to attach the base to the frame or the plate - dumb question, but do I have to provide my own? If so, what size are they?There should have been a bag of screws included.
Is there a build guide / instructions anywhere?
Thanks!
Received mine on Monday, went to start building it today but I noticed there's no screws to attach the base to the frame or the plate - dumb question, but do I have to provide my own? If so, what size are they?There should have been a bag of screws included.
Is there a build guide / instructions anywhere?
Thanks!
Received mine on Monday, went to start building it today but I noticed there's no screws to attach the base to the frame or the plate - dumb question, but do I have to provide my own? If so, what size are they?There should have been a bag of screws included.
Is there a build guide / instructions anywhere?
Thanks!
Hmm...great. I got the stabs and the feet, and some extra LED's it looks like, but no screws. I'll email Vincent.
I had a pleasant surprise show up on my doorstep today. I did not receive any shipping notice, so my order (#M169) arrived out of the blue. I had originally ordered a Purple top + acrylic bottom, but decided to go all aluminum with the last production update. Also upgraded to a brass plate that I hadn't selected in my original order. Some pictures:Love the look of the purple and the brass plate, but it's a shame that it came dented. Hopefully it's not too noticeable in person at least!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/43Re2v0.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Do4tkxy.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/MhhYYO0.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/wUqyfxx.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/IAOfhtl.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/UTTKMLm.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/GlA3q5k.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/IjNij3o.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/EUgmfPe.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/4F8yC7w.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/F82cLY8.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/81Fzstc.jpg)
As you can see in the last two pictures, there are a few dents on the bottom side of the top case. One on the upper left corner and two on the upper right. The box it was shipped in does not have any dents or signs of rough transit, so I believe this left YMDK with these defects. I'm not too upset to do anything about it (since it's on seldom seen bottom), but I'm just annoyed. I plan on getting things assembled this weekend so hopefully I'll have more photos to share soon.
Is there any update regarding eu-uk orders? Ive not gotten any confirmations on email for anything
Did anyone else order black? Haven't seen any yet, apparently mine is shipping this week, #265, I can't waitI have black, M156 and I was told mine was shipping this week. No text from DHL yet though
I warned Vincent about this no-tracking issue when keyboard is in fact shipped.I hope every orders get to their respective owners safely
Received mine on Monday, went to start building it today but I noticed there's no screws to attach the base to the frame or the plate - dumb question, but do I have to provide my own? If so, what size are they?There should have been a bag of screws included.
Is there a build guide / instructions anywhere?
Thanks!
Hmm...great. I got the stabs and the feet, and some extra LED's it looks like, but no screws. I'll email Vincent.
Got in touch with Vincent, he said they are M2-6 screws and that he’d either ship me more or cover the cost of I wanted to buy local. Great service 🙂
Did anyone else order black? Haven't seen any yet, apparently mine is shipping this week, #265, I can't waitI have black, M156 and I was told mine was shipping this week. No text from DHL yet though
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
That's interesting. The aluminum base used the same screw size across the board.Received mine on Monday, went to start building it today but I noticed there's no screws to attach the base to the frame or the plate - dumb question, but do I have to provide my own? If so, what size are they?There should have been a bag of screws included.
Is there a build guide / instructions anywhere?
Thanks!
Hmm...great. I got the stabs and the feet, and some extra LED's it looks like, but no screws. I'll email Vincent.
Got in touch with Vincent, he said they are M2-6 screws and that he’d either ship me more or cover the cost of I wanted to buy local. Great service
Just finished the build - wanted to update this, I needed M2-4's for plate to frame, and M2-4's for the thinner section of the acrylic to the frame (M2-5's probably would have worked) and M2-6's for the thicker side of the acrylic base.
All in - 4x M2-6's and 20x M2-4's.
Also - here's the final build: https://imgur.com/a/Xyj3tS1
*** Attempting to flash, please don't remove device
>>> dfu-programmer.exe atmega32u4 erase --force
dfu-programmer: no device present.
>>> dfu-programmer.exe atmega32u4 flash "C:\Users\Ender\Downloads\me96.hex"
dfu-programmer: no device present.
>>> dfu-programmer.exe atmega32u4 reset
dfu-programmer: no device present.
Anyone else have trouble programming this thing? I followed the instructions in the email sent out...the leds light up and my pc recognizes it’s plugged in, but neither the driver software or qmk toolbox is recognizing the board.
Anyone else have trouble programming this thing? I followed the instructions in the email sent out...the leds light up and my pc recognizes it’s plugged in, but neither the driver software or qmk toolbox is recognizing the board.I just pulled the source from GIT and built it manually without issue. I dislike the GUI apps for whatever reason, so haven't tried that method.
Mine arrived today! Oddly enough, I got a tracking e-mail after it arrived.I use Amtel Flip to flash mine, quick easy and painless.
Trying to program it now (to this: https://i.imgur.com/hmLFwVz.jpg), but I have a question. My board has only two switches to the right of the spacebar (pic: https://imgur.com/IXzH2Qc). How do I handle that with the .eson on kbfirmware.com (pic: https://imgur.com/a/xk90Cdb)? Just use the two left most switches?
Oh, and was it supposed to come with some sort of rubber feet? Mine did not, is there anywhere I could buy something that'd fit into the little holes on the bottom?
I get the following error when flashing.Code: [Select]*** Attempting to flash, please don't remove device
>>> dfu-programmer.exe atmega32u4 erase --force
dfu-programmer: no device present.
>>> dfu-programmer.exe atmega32u4 flash "C:\Users\Ender\Downloads\me96.hex"
dfu-programmer: no device present.
>>> dfu-programmer.exe atmega32u4 reset
dfu-programmer: no device present.
Any idea how to fix it?
Anyone else have trouble programming this thing? I followed the instructions in the email sent out...the leds light up and my pc recognizes it’s plugged in, but neither the driver software or qmk toolbox is recognizing the board.
So apparently there is an issue with the qmk toolbox missing proper drivers.
I followed the bottom of this guide:
>https://mechkeys.ca/pages/qmk-programming-how-to
And finally got it to work.
Anyone else have trouble programming this thing? I followed the instructions in the email sent out...the leds light up and my pc recognizes it’s plugged in, but neither the driver software or qmk toolbox is recognizing the board.
Anyone else have trouble programming this thing? I followed the instructions in the email sent out...the leds light up and my pc recognizes it’s plugged in, but neither the driver software or qmk toolbox is recognizing the board.
Just making sure - you are putting it into programming mode by hitting the reset key OR pressing the reset button on the underside of the PCB right?
Haven't received mine yet, but anyone know what the compatibility is like with holtites/Kailh PCB sockets? I'm not gonna have access to a soldering gun for another month or twoYou can't put kailh sockets on this, dude. You need special pcbs for those.
Haven't received mine yet, but anyone know what the compatibility is like with holtites/Kailh PCB sockets? I'm not gonna have access to a soldering gun for another month or twoYou can't put kailh sockets on this, dude. You need special pcbs for those.
Haven't received mine yet, but anyone know what the compatibility is like with holtites/Kailh PCB sockets? I'm not gonna have access to a soldering gun for another month or twoYou can't put kailh sockets on this, dude. You need special pcbs for those.
Yeah, that's why I asked---since I don't know if this PCB was made with Kailh sockets or holtites in mind, and haven't seen it mentioned, I figured I'd see if someone else had tried.
Haven't received mine yet, but anyone know what the compatibility is like with holtites/Kailh PCB sockets? I'm not gonna have access to a soldering gun for another month or twoYou can't put kailh sockets on this, dude. You need special pcbs for those.
Yeah, that's why I asked---since I don't know if this PCB was made with Kailh sockets or holtites in mind, and haven't seen it mentioned, I figured I'd see if someone else had tried.
Holtites are a no go for this board. I tried the ones from Zeal and they fall right out. Cut to me buying a soldering station and learning how to solder. Lol. This damn hobby.
I purchased holtites from Digi-Key(8134-HC-8P2). I received the request for shipping information on the 5th, no clue when I'll get it but I'll update whether they fit or not.Haven't received mine yet, but anyone know what the compatibility is like with holtites/Kailh PCB sockets? I'm not gonna have access to a soldering gun for another month or twoYou can't put kailh sockets on this, dude. You need special pcbs for those.
Yeah, that's why I asked---since I don't know if this PCB was made with Kailh sockets or holtites in mind, and haven't seen it mentioned, I figured I'd see if someone else had tried.
Holtites are a no go for this board. I tried the ones from Zeal and they fall right out. Cut to me buying a soldering station and learning how to solder. Lol. This damn hobby.
Has anyone from 200+ acrylic order received their melody?
Haven't received mine yet, but anyone know what the compatibility is like with holtites/Kailh PCB sockets? I'm not gonna have access to a soldering gun for another month or twoYou can't put kailh sockets on this, dude. You need special pcbs for those.
Yeah, that's why I asked---since I don't know if this PCB was made with Kailh sockets or holtites in mind, and haven't seen it mentioned, I figured I'd see if someone else had tried.
Holtites are a no go for this board. I tried the ones from Zeal and they fall right out. Cut to me buying a soldering station and learning how to solder. Lol. This damn hobby.
Invoice 248 here. With Titanium Gray top and acrylic bottom and I live in SoCol. No info yet about shipping. Only contact I received was when Vincent asked if I wanted to keep the acrylic bottom back on May 21st. So I am patiently waiting.
You know holtites are supposed to be soldered in, right?Haven't received mine yet, but anyone know what the compatibility is like with holtites/Kailh PCB sockets? I'm not gonna have access to a soldering gun for another month or twoYou can't put kailh sockets on this, dude. You need special pcbs for those.
Yeah, that's why I asked---since I don't know if this PCB was made with Kailh sockets or holtites in mind, and haven't seen it mentioned, I figured I'd see if someone else had tried.
Holtites are a no go for this board. I tried the ones from Zeal and they fall right out. Cut to me buying a soldering station and learning how to solder. Lol. This damn hobby.
You know holtites are supposed to be soldered in, right?Haven't received mine yet, but anyone know what the compatibility is like with holtites/Kailh PCB sockets? I'm not gonna have access to a soldering gun for another month or twoYou can't put kailh sockets on this, dude. You need special pcbs for those.
Yeah, that's why I asked---since I don't know if this PCB was made with Kailh sockets or holtites in mind, and haven't seen it mentioned, I figured I'd see if someone else had tried.
Holtites are a no go for this board. I tried the ones from Zeal and they fall right out. Cut to me buying a soldering station and learning how to solder. Lol. This damn hobby.
You know holtites are supposed to be soldered in, right?Haven't received mine yet, but anyone know what the compatibility is like with holtites/Kailh PCB sockets? I'm not gonna have access to a soldering gun for another month or twoYou can't put kailh sockets on this, dude. You need special pcbs for those.
Yeah, that's why I asked---since I don't know if this PCB was made with Kailh sockets or holtites in mind, and haven't seen it mentioned, I figured I'd see if someone else had tried.
Holtites are a no go for this board. I tried the ones from Zeal and they fall right out. Cut to me buying a soldering station and learning how to solder. Lol. This damn hobby.
Hey HADHAYOSH, wait a moment before you do a mess.
1) Holtites for switches that you have are NOT supposed to be soldered in. Usually these holtites fits or not fits inside the hole, the whole point of using these sockets is to not solder anything (eventually just few holtites on half-holes necessary for multiple layouts)
2) Said that, you can actually solder them, many people does that when they discover that the pcb doesn't support holtites without soldering, however these needs to be soldered in a particular.
3) Since you said it is your first soldering experience, i really don't suggest to solder holtites, you might do a big mess. That type of holtites are not closed on the back, so if you solder these sockets like you solder switches, you will most likely fill them with solder on the internal part of the holtite, making it unusable and difficult to remove.
4) If you want to proceed, i can explain you how you are supposed to solder holtites without doing a big mess, but again i do NOT suggest to do so, unless you have a lot of time (200 holtites soldered in a particular way) and have a good soldering experience already. Let me know.
You know holtites are supposed to be soldered in, right?Haven't received mine yet, but anyone know what the compatibility is like with holtites/Kailh PCB sockets? I'm not gonna have access to a soldering gun for another month or twoYou can't put kailh sockets on this, dude. You need special pcbs for those.
Yeah, that's why I asked---since I don't know if this PCB was made with Kailh sockets or holtites in mind, and haven't seen it mentioned, I figured I'd see if someone else had tried.
Holtites are a no go for this board. I tried the ones from Zeal and they fall right out. Cut to me buying a soldering station and learning how to solder. Lol. This damn hobby.
Hey HADHAYOSH, wait a moment before you do a mess.
1) Holtites for switches that you have are NOT supposed to be soldered in. Usually these holtites fits or not fits inside the hole, the whole point of using these sockets is to not solder anything (eventually just few holtites on half-holes necessary for multiple layouts)
2) Said that, you can actually solder them, many people does that when they discover that the pcb doesn't support holtites without soldering, however these needs to be soldered in a particular.
3) Since you said it is your first soldering experience, i really don't suggest to solder holtites, you might do a big mess. That type of holtites are not closed on the back, so if you solder these sockets like you solder switches, you will most likely fill them with solder on the internal part of the holtite, making it unusable and difficult to remove.
4) If you want to proceed, i can explain you how you are supposed to solder holtites without doing a big mess, but again i do NOT suggest to do so, unless you have a lot of time (200 holtites soldered in a particular way) and have a good soldering experience already. Let me know.
Thanks for the help. I actually do have a bit of soldering experience, but probably not enough that I'd be confident soldering holtites. Main thing now is that without a soldering gun (a relative has it, and is out of town), I was hoping for a solder-free way to get it working. If I'm gonna have to solder it either way, I'll just do it the regular way.
Haven't received mine yet, but anyone know what the compatibility is like with holtites/Kailh PCB sockets? I'm not gonna have access to a soldering gun for another month or twoYou can't put kailh sockets on this, dude. You need special pcbs for those.
Yeah, that's why I asked---since I don't know if this PCB was made with Kailh sockets or holtites in mind, and haven't seen it mentioned, I figured I'd see if someone else had tried.
Holtites are a no go for this board. I tried the ones from Zeal and they fall right out. Cut to me buying a soldering station and learning how to solder. Lol. This damn hobby.
did you try the copper tape mod? seems doable since the holes are 1-2mm larger than the hotlines.
Was my board supposed o come with rubber feet for here?Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/1pV8uio.jpg)
If not, what is the best thing to buy to use as feet? It slides all over the place.
It's done, once my pulse set arrives it's end game for me. Also hyped that my USB C to Mini B adapter works. Has Titanium gray top and bottom, brass weight and plate, lubed Zealios 67g, Genuine Cherry Stabs that have been clipped, lubed and band aid modded, Maxkey SA Cyan on White with a KF Cyanara, Primecaps Neptune's Crest TRDL, BroCaps Patriot Reaper v1 and a Koicaps blue key.Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/1a4e8ffdf73d03581d9ccf16db0571e7.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/733c08404866b12bd35f6ce5850ef255.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/869ac30310e3a7219385e000d73e8957.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/2e90c05e77a52ffb7788c9c5c2b17ad4.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/e63de3599643e2ed70ba48a069bca445.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/2032d824421e664960b2bcc27014b163.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/70f1a665bd3ea33b3a91bb0815b5dbe3.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/42156bbd5deec6b2388390ba7616f96c.jpg)
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Alright, yet another programming question from someone who's never done this before.
I just want to make sure I don't brick anything.
Following the instructions provided by Vincent, I have the json file, which I've uploaded to kbfirmware.com
The instructions say I can change the layout there, I know I can configure each of the selected keys, but I can't adjust the actual layout with how many keys i.e. three 1u keys instead of two 1.5u keys, or a 2u backspace.
I know I can do that on keyboard-layout-editor.com and can upload that to KFB, I just want to know if the official json and wiring diagram are essential to programming this thing.
If I build my ideal layout, then take it into KFB, without using the official me96.json, then go through the rest of the instructions, is that going to mess me up?
Yes, did you checked properly the package? the feets are usually not already sticked on the board but are always included.
If you can't find it in the package somewhere (check properly), just contact Vincent.
Alright, yet another programming question from someone who's never done this before.
I just want to make sure I don't brick anything.
Following the instructions provided by Vincent, I have the json file, which I've uploaded to kbfirmware.com
The instructions say I can change the layout there, I know I can configure each of the selected keys, but I can't adjust the actual layout with how many keys i.e. three 1u keys instead of two 1.5u keys, or a 2u backspace.
I know I can do that on keyboard-layout-editor.com and can upload that to KFB, I just want to know if the official json and wiring diagram are essential to programming this thing.
If I build my ideal layout, then take it into KFB, without using the official me96.json, then go through the rest of the instructions, is that going to mess me up?
The wiring diagram and pin selections are extremely critical to proper operation. The official JSON is just a way of providing the wiring and layout in a portable format, nothing precludes you from rebuilding it yourself if you really want to. The JSON from earlier in this thread has all three switch positions in the lower-right modifier section (and all other switch positions), but you don't need to USE all three of those, nor do they have to be the right size in the layout shown. I would map the right two to what you want your singular right modifier in a 1.5/1.5 configuration to be, for example, and then verify that it's mapped correctly when flashed.
Has anyone heard anything about/or got shipping notifications from Candykeys yet?Nothing so far afaik.
any way to get one of these or anyone trying to sell one?I got a spare gold alu kit but the shipping's just a pain in the a**
any way to get one of these or anyone trying to sell one?I got a spare gold alu kit but the shipping's just a pain in the a**
haha, ok broany way to get one of these or anyone trying to sell one?I got a spare gold alu kit but the shipping's just a pain in the a**
mind if i send you a message? pretty interested,
Just received my bulk order last week
Everything looks nice and smooth
There is some tiny problems but I can fixed it easily
Has anyone heard anything about/or got shipping notifications from Candykeys yet?Nothing so far afaik.
Did you bought every color lol?Almost haha
Has anyone from 200+ acrylic order received their melody?
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-USB-2-0-5Pin-Female-to-USB-C-Type-C-Male-charge-Data-Adapter/232435225455?epid=21006063357&hash=item361e38136f:g:1p8AAOSwJhdZhDR5It's done, once my pulse set arrives it's end game for me. Also hyped that my USB C to Mini B adapter works. Has Titanium gray top and bottom, brass weight and plate, lubed Zealios 67g, Genuine Cherry Stabs that have been clipped, lubed and band aid modded, Maxkey SA Cyan on White with a KF Cyanara, Primecaps Neptune's Crest TRDL, BroCaps Patriot Reaper v1 and a Koicaps blue key.Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/1a4e8ffdf73d03581d9ccf16db0571e7.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/733c08404866b12bd35f6ce5850ef255.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/869ac30310e3a7219385e000d73e8957.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/2e90c05e77a52ffb7788c9c5c2b17ad4.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/e63de3599643e2ed70ba48a069bca445.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/2032d824421e664960b2bcc27014b163.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/70f1a665bd3ea33b3a91bb0815b5dbe3.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/42156bbd5deec6b2388390ba7616f96c.jpg)
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Do you have a link for the usb-c to mini b adapter?
Hello all, I got the Configurator to work with melody96Thanks Merlin, I really need that
Check it out at https://config.qmk.fm/#/melody96/LAYOUT
If you need a text based guide, please refer to this: https://github.com/mechmerlin/qmk_setup/blob/master/qmk_configurator.md
Numpad Enter key is not working. My solder points look fine, could be the switch but I noticed the (resistor?) is a little crooked. Does it look like that could be causing me the issue? Does that specific one impact the numpad enter key? Should I try changing out the switch first?
Thanks,
Numpad Enter key is not working. My solder points look fine, could be the switch but I noticed the (resistor?) is a little crooked. Does it look like that could be causing me the issue? Does that specific one impact the numpad enter key? Should I try changing out the switch first?Have you try to remapping the kb?
Thanks,
Numpad Enter key is not working. My solder points look fine, could be the switch but I noticed the (resistor?) is a little crooked. Does it look like that could be causing me the issue? Does that specific one impact the numpad enter key? Should I try changing out the switch first?Have you try to remapping the kb?
Thanks,
I got a bunch of pcb have some keys not functional, after remapping they work just fine
Numpad Enter key is not working. My solder points look fine, could be the switch but I noticed the (resistor?) is a little crooked. Does it look like that could be causing me the issue? Does that specific one impact the numpad enter key? Should I try changing out the switch first?
Thanks,
Did you test the PCB prior to soldering the switch? If you tested the PCB everything works, it might be something like else.
Numpad Enter key is not working. My solder points look fine, could be the switch but I noticed the (resistor?) is a little crooked. Does it look like that could be causing me the issue? Does that specific one impact the numpad enter key? Should I try changing out the switch first?
Thanks,
I am order 236 with gray top and acrylic bottom and I just received my package. It seems that I received my package (11) before the tracking (14). Well looks like I will need to buy a soldering iron now
Is there a tutorial some where that shows how to test your pcb?
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Hey, I have two boards and one of them isn't recognize. The bottom leds light up but shorting the pcb doesn't register anything. Any help would be appreciated.
Are the stabilizers plate mounted or PCB mounted?
Are the stabilizers plate mounted or PCB mounted?
PCB.
I'm trying to use the QMK Toolbox to flash in new hex, but it said "there's no device available," probably because I didn't put the pcb into reset mode.
What's the default way to do this?
Tks !
Edited: nevermind, i found the reset button on bottom of the PCB!
Hey, I have two boards and one of them isn't recognize. The bottom leds light up but shorting the pcb doesn't register anything. Any help would be appreciated.
After some playing around, I finally found my problem. The board has a problem with usb connector. Does anyone had the same problem?
Is there a tutorial some where that shows how to test your pcb?
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Well I have the keyboard on hand. First and foremost their is so much tape on the box which is good, but dam it was really difficult trying to open the package without a knife. It looks like I received all the things I ordered from the titanium gray top and plate with an acrilyc bottom and my gateron yellow that I dont plan on using anymore. Also one question, I did not see any kind of standoff. Does the PCB basically hang from the plate?
Got email to confirm address a few days ago (Invoice # 270).
I'm 248 with acrylic bottom. Still no tracking.
Order 241/242, see people around my order # already getting theirs. I still don't even have tracking.
Who else with acrylic bottom around my number range is waiting? Just wondering if I should email vincent or wait a bit more.
Have you tried using QMK Configurator? https://config.qmk.fm/#/melody96/LAYOUT
Have you tried using QMK Configurator? https://config.qmk.fm/#/melody96/LAYOUT
Having an issue, I think I can piggy back off of this. Want to program my board, but the .json that 'comes with' the board + the config on the link you posted is different than my board.
Not my board but the same layout: https://imgur.com/a/CDFBvqT
Sorry probably an easy fix but i'm a bit noob, any tips? Thanks.
I got my board yesterday (M240). Yay.
I originally ordered the acrylic bottom, but upgraded to metal in the hopes of getting my board sooner. That was mistake - I think that it's a shame to hide the RGB LEDs on the underside of the board.
I opted for building it myself (I already had a stash of my preferred switch ready to go). Now I think that was also a mistake - I've already spent way too much time on assembling.
Even worse, I now have a problem with the board not working. When I plug it in, the LEDs (i.e. the monochrome LEDs on the switches) blink 7 times, and then turn off.
Does anyone know of where I can figure out what this might mean? Or have any suggestions on how I could go about debugging the problem? Is there documentation available for the melody96 board? Schematics?
i might have a top case left that i can part with.Im interested, shot you a pm.
I got my board yesterday (M240). Yay.
I originally ordered the acrylic bottom, but upgraded to metal in the hopes of getting my board sooner. That was mistake - I think that it's a shame to hide the RGB LEDs on the underside of the board.
I opted for building it myself (I already had a stash of my preferred switch ready to go). Now I think that was also a mistake - I've already spent way too much time on assembling.
Even worse, I now have a problem with the board not working. When I plug it in, the LEDs (i.e. the monochrome LEDs on the switches) blink 7 times, and then turn off.
Does anyone know of where I can figure out what this might mean? Or have any suggestions on how I could go about debugging the problem? Is there documentation available for the melody96 board? Schematics?
You should post some high-res pictures of your PCB. Look over specifically the area around the USB-C port and the microcontroller for potential shorts as well.
I got my board yesterday (M240). Yay.
I originally ordered the acrylic bottom, but upgraded to metal in the hopes of getting my board sooner. That was mistake - I think that it's a shame to hide the RGB LEDs on the underside of the board.
I opted for building it myself (I already had a stash of my preferred switch ready to go). Now I think that was also a mistake - I've already spent way too much time on assembling.
Even worse, I now have a problem with the board not working. When I plug it in, the LEDs (i.e. the monochrome LEDs on the switches) blink 7 times, and then turn off.
Does anyone know of where I can figure out what this might mean? Or have any suggestions on how I could go about debugging the problem? Is there documentation available for the melody96 board? Schematics?
You should post some high-res pictures of your PCB. Look over specifically the area around the USB-C port and the microcontroller for potential shorts as well.
Yeah, I'm pretty sure I have a short of some sort. Actually, it's like a floating tiny bit of solder, because the problem is intermittent. Good suggestion to look specifically at the microcontroller and USB-C, I've use an air can liberally on the board but didn't focus on those areas.
The problem is likely my own damn fault. I bent a pin on one of the switches and had to unsolder and remove it. I didn't have a solder sucker, so I tried to use the air can to clear the solder out of the pin hole. Worse, I actually have a solder sucker, and found it hiding in a tool box later. :-(
But assembling and soldering took me far too long, in the future I'll try and focus on boards with my preferred switch (speed copper = was not available in this drop), removable switches (so that I can put in my own switch), or already assembled.
I have a Planck rev 5 on order that should arrive next month, and that's got removable switches, yay!
Once I stopped messing with the keyboard, and got it working on my desk (typing on it now), then I've discovered that I like it a LOT. So it has all worked out well so far. Next I need to start learning QMK.
I got a text from DHL Express today that I have an expected delivery Tuesday coming from ONE VILLAGE. Is this my Melody? You guys got a message like this too?
Should arrive these days.Soldered ones has around 20 not shippedHas anyone from 200+ acrylic order received their melody?
241/242, still waiting.
Should arrive these days.Soldered ones has around 20 not shippedHas anyone from 200+ acrylic order received their melody?
241/242, still waiting.
Should arrive these days.Soldered ones has around 20 not shippedHas anyone from 200+ acrylic order received their melody?
241/242, still waiting.
Anyone else having a problem with their PCB? I bought one for myself and a buddy bought one for him and in both cases there are certain switches that either press the wrong switch, press multiple switched at once or don't register any keys at all. Is there something that needs to be done here or did I get 2 broken PCBs?
Any news on shipping?
I'm M271 & I was told mine might go out next week sometime. I'm a Kit 3 that took someone else's place though, so I'm not sure how that affects my spot in the line.
I'm M271 & I was told mine might go out next week sometime. I'm a Kit 3 that took someone else's place though, so I'm not sure how that affects my spot in the line.
What colors? If that even matters...
Order M202 here. F [...]
Edit: It looks like he actually emailed me again today but I missed it initially. He's wanting to confirm my layout (again?) so I guess my order is still a long way from getting to me. ):
I received my board today with the only problem being that it came with an ISO set up instead of ANSI.. :(
Not sure how I should proceed.
No one else has this issue? Should be a keyboard shortcut right? i've tried all combos i can think of.
Put this guy together yesterday. I love it!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/RupCai1.jpg)
Put this guy together yesterday. I love it!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/RupCai1.jpg)
Put this guy together yesterday. I love it!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/RupCai1.jpg)
u flexin uh?
Just plugged in my PCB and 12 out of 18 RGB LEDs light up. Any suggestions on how to remedy this? I tested the PCB with tweezers and all the buttons registered and I also re-flashed the PCB and still only 12 RGB LEDs light up. Thanks!
(Attachment Link)
Just plugged in my PCB and 12 out of 18 RGB LEDs light up. Any suggestions on how to remedy this? I tested the PCB with tweezers and all the buttons registered and I also re-flashed the PCB and still only 12 RGB LEDs light up. Thanks!
(Attachment Link)
Check and reflow the soldering on the last LED that lights and the first LED that doesn't. Also check to make sure the traces between them are undamaged.
Hello ! Just received my board and everything works great, but the underglow doesnt seems to change and stay red, how can I change that please ? thanks
Hello ! Just received my board and everything works great, but the underglow doesnt seems to change and stay red, how can I change that please ? thanks
See the default keymap (https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/blob/master/keyboards/melody96/keymaps/default/keymap.c#L50 or the JSON that was provided earlier in the thread). The Fn+QERTYUIO keys control the underglow.
Anyway I could order an extra brass plate and maybe a PCB
Did you have soldering service bought with it? That may delay it a fair bit I guess. For my order Vincent told me there's no need to pick layout since it's not being soldered on his sideYou know what? That's gotta be it. Makes so much more sense, I don't know why I didn't think of that.
Miami NightsShow Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180712/b7faa7e4fc9158a28be3e2eb69c5c1b6.jpg)
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180712/b9e9035202fd92c2ba526d920a9e993b.jpg)Miami NightsShow Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180712/b7faa7e4fc9158a28be3e2eb69c5c1b6.jpg)
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That looks really good! Any more pics?
I got a black case with the acrylic base but it hasn't shipped yet. Last I heard was that I had to wait until July 10th for a new acrylic base.
Miami NightsShow Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180712/b7faa7e4fc9158a28be3e2eb69c5c1b6.jpg)
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That looks really good! Any more pics?
I got a black case with the acrylic base but it hasn't shipped yet. Last I heard was that I had to wait until July 10th for a new acrylic base.Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180712/b9e9035202fd92c2ba526d920a9e993b.jpg)
Another one
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Miami NightsShow Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180712/b7faa7e4fc9158a28be3e2eb69c5c1b6.jpg)
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That looks really good! Any more pics?
I got a black case with the acrylic base but it hasn't shipped yet. Last I heard was that I had to wait until July 10th for a new acrylic base.Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180712/b9e9035202fd92c2ba526d920a9e993b.jpg)
Another one
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Thanks for posting! Did you get a brass plate? I see some gold peeking through.
Just received mine today! super excited - but didn't realize I may have accidentally ordered an ISO layout. I selected Layout 3 when choosing in the GB form.
Does anyone have list of available templates from the ordering options? Just wanting to know if I was sent the wrong layout or selected the wrong layout.
I had everything soldered before being sent to me, but looks like i'll have to swap around the enter key.
Just received mine today! super excited - but didn't realize I may have accidentally ordered an ISO layout. I selected Layout 3 when choosing in the GB form.
Does anyone have list of available templates from the ordering options? Just wanting to know if I was sent the wrong layout or selected the wrong layout.
I had everything soldered before being sent to me, but looks like i'll have to swap around the enter key.
Just received mine today! super excited - but didn't realize I may have accidentally ordered an ISO layout. I selected Layout 3 when choosing in the GB form.
Does anyone have list of available templates from the ordering options? Just wanting to know if I was sent the wrong layout or selected the wrong layout.
I had everything soldered before being sent to me, but looks like i'll have to swap around the enter key.
Yeah I definitely ordered the wrong layout somehow.
What's the difficultly level to remove & re-solder switches? I've soldered a few things, but never on a keyboard.
Just received mine today! super excited - but didn't realize I may have accidentally ordered an ISO layout. I selected Layout 3 when choosing in the GB form.
Does anyone have list of available templates from the ordering options? Just wanting to know if I was sent the wrong layout or selected the wrong layout.
I had everything soldered before being sent to me, but looks like i'll have to swap around the enter key.
Yeah I definitely ordered the wrong layout somehow.
What's the difficultly level to remove & re-solder switches? I've soldered a few things, but never on a keyboard.
Not hard, are you on a budget or not? (for soldering/desoldering equipment)
Also, are these leds soldered or sipsocketed?
I don't know if it's been asked before but are there extra pcbs/plates?There were some. I ordered a blue one w/ acrylic bottom and brass plate about a month ago. Silver and gray were already gone when I paid the invoice. A week or so ago someone mentioned getting a black one, and that those were the only ones left.
Just received mine today! super excited - but didn't realize I may have accidentally ordered an ISO layout. I selected Layout 3 when choosing in the GB form.
Does anyone have list of available templates from the ordering options? Just wanting to know if I was sent the wrong layout or selected the wrong layout.
I had everything soldered before being sent to me, but looks like i'll have to swap around the enter key.
Yeah I definitely ordered the wrong layout somehow.
What's the difficultly level to remove & re-solder switches? I've soldered a few things, but never on a keyboard.
Not hard, are you on a budget or not? (for soldering/desoldering equipment)
Also, are these leds soldered or sipsocketed?
No real budget for the equipment, but I would really only be using it this one time.
I have a crappy old soldering iron already, but will need to order a solder sucker. Also have to order a couple more stabilizers for the shift keys. Was really hoping to knock this out today but no local place will have the sucker or the stabilizers.
Really not sure on the terminology for the LED soldering methods, but looks like they are sitting in the switch and soldered directly to the board.
Just received mine today! super excited - but didn't realize I may have accidentally ordered an ISO layout. I selected Layout 3 when choosing in the GB form.
Does anyone have list of available templates from the ordering options? Just wanting to know if I was sent the wrong layout or selected the wrong layout.
I had everything soldered before being sent to me, but looks like i'll have to swap around the enter key.
Yeah I definitely ordered the wrong layout somehow.
What's the difficultly level to remove & re-solder switches? I've soldered a few things, but never on a keyboard.
Not hard, are you on a budget or not? (for soldering/desoldering equipment)
Also, are these leds soldered or sipsocketed?
No real budget for the equipment, but I would really only be using it this one time.
I have a crappy old soldering iron already, but will need to order a solder sucker. Also have to order a couple more stabilizers for the shift keys. Was really hoping to knock this out today but no local place will have the sucker or the stabilizers.
Really not sure on the terminology for the LED soldering methods, but looks like they are sitting in the switch and soldered directly to the board.
to be extremely honest, if it's your first experience, desoldering 100 switches +100 leds will not be fun at all, especially because you have leds. If you can, buy a desoldering gun, otherwise just try to desolder with your tools but it might end up with a mess.
what you can try to do, is to desolder only the switches in the middle and near the enter, bend a bit the plate and the pcb and try to remove and insert the stabilizer in another position.
I don't know if it's been asked before but are there extra pcbs/plates?
Yeah unfortunatly you are wrong.
You have to change these switches, but you also have to change the stabilizers position, which is usually not possible with the keyboard soldered because you have a little space to work with.
You have to remove the stab on on the enter iso and put it in the ansi enter direction, you also have to do the same with left shift, this misses the stabilizer. For right shift you are fine already, this one should be the standard ansi 96 keeb.
You can try to do what i said, desolder some switches in the area of the stabilizer and try to lift/bend slightly the pcb and plate, to give you more space and maybe you will be allowed to remove and insert again the stabilizer without the necessity to desolder all tbe switches.
Of course every time you desolder a switch, you also have to desolder the led.
You might try to ask for a soldering/desoldering service if you are in the US (someone on /r/mechmarket might do it for you)
Received the keyboard in the mail the other day and finally got to testing everything. The left spacebar stabilizer doesn't work. I ordered soldering service because I wanted to avoid anything like this but mistakes happen. In case Vincent doesn't respond to my email what are the odds of someone with 0 experience soldering being able to replace the stabilizer without messing anything up?Vincent will answer (he has 2 mails and skype), if he doesn't after few days you can pm me.
Vincent will answer (he has 2 mails and skype), if he doesn't after few days you can pm me.He did message back! I was worried because a number of questions had been left unanswered previously but he has been very communicative so far. I'm sure he was just busy and it got overlooked.
What you mean with "left stabilizer doesn't work" btw?
Vincent will answer (he has 2 mails and skype), if he doesn't after few days you can pm me.He did message back! I was worried because a number of questions had been left unanswered previously but he has been very communicative so far. I'm sure he was just busy and it got overlooked.
What you mean with "left stabilizer doesn't work" btw?
I'm sorry if I'm not using the right verbiage so bear with me haha. This is my first serious foray into a new keyboard via group buy and I'm still learning. Basically the right stabilizer on the space bar stays depressed and doesn't spring back when I press it, causing the space bar to stick. I'm hoping this is an easily fixable issue on my end because I know nothing about desoldering and don't feel comfortable trying it on the board (I paid for the assembly service as a precaution) and I'd hate to have to send it back for repair. Here's a picture of the issue in question. Let me know if any other pics might help and I'll be happy to take them! [:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/nC0nyju.jpg)
Got my board yesterday and it's a lot heavier than I expected. The brass plate is scuffed\scratched up fairly badly so I guess I'll need to buff or polish it a bit and it looks like the case was dropped pretty hard in transit or something because it actually deformed the aluminum corner and took a chunk out of it... Overall happy with the board though. I still need to get it hooked up and test the keys as I imagine the drop may have possibly broken some of the soldering. Can't wait to get a set of caps on it and get it up and running though.
Yeah you need to flash it. Just follow the instructions given by Vincent in the manual
I'll take a look when I get home but the standard json file from the drive seem to work for me. All I did was switch fn and Ctrl for my setup
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1oJmSfjgs_DugsvloO9VaO5KWvwS4T2OX
I had the same issue, it was because bootmagic was disabling left windows. Holding space and the left windows key while plugging in the board is what fixed it for me.Yeah you need to flash it. Just follow the instructions given by Vincent in the manual
Appreciate the help!
I was able to get everything working fine except the L_GUI key. For some reason I can't get it to register as the windows key.
I've re-flashed the firmware and the layout multiple times now but haven't been successful. The switch is working, as I can map it to something else and it works fine. it just doesn't want to work as the windows key.
Any advice on how to fix the issue?
So my board arrived (beautiful and top quality)and upon building it I noticed that 9/16 rgb leds light up and no key / switch registers. Even with a SS316 bridge there is no key press.
For the rgb led I’ll upload an image tomorrow maybe there is an issue I don’t see.
For the Keycaps problem, i followed the pdf manual step by step but somewhere is a bug ...
damn son :(
if you got pics of the package, just contact vincent, this kind of shipping might be insured.
Have the EU orders started to ship already? We got an Email from saying it would arrive soon, but it's been 3 weeks since that
Just got the shipping notification yesterdayHave the EU orders started to ship already? We got an Email from saying it would arrive soon, but it's been 3 weeks since that
Hi jihadu
Are you still waiting for you board to be shipped?
Mine just arrived! Looks awesome in person. Truly eye catching. :thumb:What colors are those?
Now I just need to read up on how to assemble and program it. Saw some useful tips earlier in this thread, so thanks for those!
How can i turn off leds without Fn? I didn't like FN button :(If you want too, you can program any key to led control. That's the beauty of programability
Just those pics I talked about earlier, nothing too crazy and nothing that's not fixable, just looks like it's been through the ringer.Just a heads up, yours looks exactly like mine did before removing the plastic film cover. Have you removed the weight and made sure you don't have the film there?
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Just those pics I talked about earlier, nothing too crazy and nothing that's not fixable, just looks like it's been through the ringer.Just a heads up, yours looks exactly like mine did before removing the plastic film cover. Have you removed the weight and made sure you don't have the film there?
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
So layer 1 is permanently activated on my board, and I think that this is the source of my issue (seeing this on multiple keys for this row):Show Image(https://imgur.com/LypBxXu.jpg)Show Image(https://imgur.com/A1SZ5GI.jpg)
Anyone have any idea as to what is causing this? Not using screw-in stabs and I can't see any solder bridges.
Can i use macro to setup rgb toggle button? I don't see any option in order to control lightning in macro tab.How can i turn off leds without Fn? I didn't like FN button :(If you want too, you can program any key to led control. That's the beauty of programability
So layer 1 is permanently activated on my board, and I think that this is the source of my issue (seeing this on multiple keys for this row):Show Image(https://imgur.com/LypBxXu.jpg)Show Image(https://imgur.com/A1SZ5GI.jpg)
Anyone have any idea as to what is causing this? Not using screw-in stabs and I can't see any solder bridges.
So layer 1 is permanently activated on my board, and I think that this is the source of my issue (seeing this on multiple keys for this row):Show Image(https://imgur.com/LypBxXu.jpg)Show Image(https://imgur.com/A1SZ5GI.jpg)
Anyone have any idea as to what is causing this? Not using screw-in stabs and I can't see any solder bridges.
What layout you flashed in the first place? I'm not an expert with the multimeter so on this i can't help, but i think you are trying to do the "last thing to try" and i don't know if you tried the "first things to try". E.g. do you even have a key to switch layers setted? You tried to do an hard reset?
So layer 1 is permanently activated on my board, and I think that this is the source of my issue (seeing this on multiple keys for this row):Show Image(https://imgur.com/LypBxXu.jpg)Show Image(https://imgur.com/A1SZ5GI.jpg)
Anyone have any idea as to what is causing this? Not using screw-in stabs and I can't see any solder bridges.
What layout you flashed in the first place? I'm not an expert with the multimeter so on this i can't help, but i think you are trying to do the "last thing to try" and i don't know if you tried the "first things to try". E.g. do you even have a key to switch layers setted? You tried to do an hard reset?
I've already tried flashing the default layout, and if I'm reading the layout correctly that's they key to switch layers. If I plug it into a computer it immediately starts behaving like a handful of keys are held down, and I've confirmed it is in layer 1 as the LED controls work.
I should be seeing a zero for when I have my two leads on those pads as there should be absolutely no path for current, but what I am seeing indicates that there is some component bridging the gap between the two lines. Deleting the keys from the keymap to test this out is probably a good place to start, but trying to find motivation to work on this when I've already got a number of other headaches is difficult. I'm just hoping it's something stupid that somehow I'm overlooking, because the other reasons I can think of I really dislike (stab lube is slightly conductive, bad chip).
So layer 1 is permanently activated on my board, and I think that this is the source of my issue (seeing this on multiple keys for this row):Show Image(https://imgur.com/LypBxXu.jpg)Show Image(https://imgur.com/A1SZ5GI.jpg)
Anyone have any idea as to what is causing this? Not using screw-in stabs and I can't see any solder bridges.
What layout you flashed in the first place? I'm not an expert with the multimeter so on this i can't help, but i think you are trying to do the "last thing to try" and i don't know if you tried the "first things to try". E.g. do you even have a key to switch layers setted? You tried to do an hard reset?
I've already tried flashing the default layout, and if I'm reading the layout correctly that's they key to switch layers. If I plug it into a computer it immediately starts behaving like a handful of keys are held down, and I've confirmed it is in layer 1 as the LED controls work.
I should be seeing a zero for when I have my two leads on those pads as there should be absolutely no path for current, but what I am seeing indicates that there is some component bridging the gap between the two lines. Deleting the keys from the keymap to test this out is probably a good place to start, but trying to find motivation to work on this when I've already got a number of other headaches is difficult. I'm just hoping it's something stupid that somehow I'm overlooking, because the other reasons I can think of I really dislike (stab lube is slightly conductive, bad chip).
So layer 1 is permanently activated on my board, and I think that this is the source of my issue (seeing this on multiple keys for this row):Show Image(https://imgur.com/LypBxXu.jpg)Show Image(https://imgur.com/A1SZ5GI.jpg)
Anyone have any idea as to what is causing this? Not using screw-in stabs and I can't see any solder bridges.
What layout you flashed in the first place? I'm not an expert with the multimeter so on this i can't help, but i think you are trying to do the "last thing to try" and i don't know if you tried the "first things to try". E.g. do you even have a key to switch layers setted? You tried to do an hard reset?
I've already tried flashing the default layout, and if I'm reading the layout correctly that's they key to switch layers. If I plug it into a computer it immediately starts behaving like a handful of keys are held down, and I've confirmed it is in layer 1 as the LED controls work.
I should be seeing a zero for when I have my two leads on those pads as there should be absolutely no path for current, but what I am seeing indicates that there is some component bridging the gap between the two lines. Deleting the keys from the keymap to test this out is probably a good place to start, but trying to find motivation to work on this when I've already got a number of other headaches is difficult. I'm just hoping it's something stupid that somehow I'm overlooking, because the other reasons I can think of I really dislike (stab lube is slightly conductive, bad chip).
If you can't get it figured out, I have an extra PCB I could sell you. $20 + whatever it costs to ship.
For what reason? That's the least likely culprit.
For what reason? That's the least likely culprit.
Every single IO pin has a voltage drop going towards one IO pin, which is the pin that takes in the row input for the function key. Flipping the leads results in an open circuit, which means that there is at least one diode in between this IO pin and all of the other IO pins. Unfortunately with switches soldered in I can only see half of the board, but there's no obvious defects that I can see, especially one that would cause this pin to get connected to every single other pin. I didn't completely mangle my board, which should be obvious from the picture, and there is no circuitry that I can find outside of the chip that could produce the results I see from my multimeter. I can think of reasons why this circuitry would exist inside of the chip however, and if the internal diode went bad and is now allowing bidirectional current that would explain everything.
The only reason I'm hesitating is because I have very limited experience with smt soldering (my Iris was the first time I had ever done it).
For what reason? That's the least likely culprit.
Every single IO pin has a voltage drop going towards one IO pin, which is the pin that takes in the row input for the function key. Flipping the leads results in an open circuit, which means that there is at least one diode in between this IO pin and all of the other IO pins. Unfortunately with switches soldered in I can only see half of the board, but there's no obvious defects that I can see, especially one that would cause this pin to get connected to every single other pin. I didn't completely mangle my board, which should be obvious from the picture, and there is no circuitry that I can find outside of the chip that could produce the results I see from my multimeter. I can think of reasons why this circuitry would exist inside of the chip however, and if the internal diode went bad and is now allowing bidirectional current that would explain everything.
The only reason I'm hesitating is because I have very limited experience with smt soldering (my Iris was the first time I had ever done it).
Well, that's annoying. I would offer to replace the 32u4 for you but shipping two ways may make it less appealing than just getting that new PCB that was offered.
For what reason? That's the least likely culprit.
Every single IO pin has a voltage drop going towards one IO pin, which is the pin that takes in the row input for the function key. Flipping the leads results in an open circuit, which means that there is at least one diode in between this IO pin and all of the other IO pins. Unfortunately with switches soldered in I can only see half of the board, but there's no obvious defects that I can see, especially one that would cause this pin to get connected to every single other pin. I didn't completely mangle my board, which should be obvious from the picture, and there is no circuitry that I can find outside of the chip that could produce the results I see from my multimeter. I can think of reasons why this circuitry would exist inside of the chip however, and if the internal diode went bad and is now allowing bidirectional current that would explain everything.
The only reason I'm hesitating is because I have very limited experience with smt soldering (my Iris was the first time I had ever done it).
Well, that's annoying. I would offer to replace the 32u4 for you but shipping two ways may make it less appealing than just getting that new PCB that was offered.
You were right that it wasn't the chip...apparently one of the switch pads is incredibly easy to bridge to ground, to the point were you can bridge it, desolder the switch and the bridge will still remain
Pictures of the evil pad in question to come tomorrow when I'm not falling asleep
EDIT: yup, that was the culprit, a single leg shorted to ground...now I need to figure out how to fix the two LEDs that I murdered in the process of fixing the switches
EDIT 2: how do you desolder one of the rgb leds with a conventional soldering iron? I removed all of the visible solder and it's still stuck...
Here's the bad pad in question. You can't really tell from this, but the ground is exposed a fraction of a millimeter away from the pad...Show Image(https://imgur.com/EkR739B.jpg)
For what reason? That's the least likely culprit.
Every single IO pin has a voltage drop going towards one IO pin, which is the pin that takes in the row input for the function key. Flipping the leads results in an open circuit, which means that there is at least one diode in between this IO pin and all of the other IO pins. Unfortunately with switches soldered in I can only see half of the board, but there's no obvious defects that I can see, especially one that would cause this pin to get connected to every single other pin. I didn't completely mangle my board, which should be obvious from the picture, and there is no circuitry that I can find outside of the chip that could produce the results I see from my multimeter. I can think of reasons why this circuitry would exist inside of the chip however, and if the internal diode went bad and is now allowing bidirectional current that would explain everything.
The only reason I'm hesitating is because I have very limited experience with smt soldering (my Iris was the first time I had ever done it).
Well, that's annoying. I would offer to replace the 32u4 for you but shipping two ways may make it less appealing than just getting that new PCB that was offered.
You were right that it wasn't the chip...apparently one of the switch pads is incredibly easy to bridge to ground, to the point were you can bridge it, desolder the switch and the bridge will still remain
Pictures of the evil pad in question to come tomorrow when I'm not falling asleep
EDIT: yup, that was the culprit, a single leg shorted to ground...now I need to figure out how to fix the two LEDs that I murdered in the process of fixing the switches
EDIT 2: how do you desolder one of the rgb leds with a conventional soldering iron? I removed all of the visible solder and it's still stuck...
Here's the bad pad in question. You can't really tell from this, but the ground is exposed a fraction of a millimeter away from the pad...Show Image(https://imgur.com/EkR739B.jpg)
Glad you found the short. For the LED, I typically use either low-temperature solder or a hot-air reflow station. It's definitely going to be trickier without those. Did you use wick?
For what reason? That's the least likely culprit.
Every single IO pin has a voltage drop going towards one IO pin, which is the pin that takes in the row input for the function key. Flipping the leads results in an open circuit, which means that there is at least one diode in between this IO pin and all of the other IO pins. Unfortunately with switches soldered in I can only see half of the board, but there's no obvious defects that I can see, especially one that would cause this pin to get connected to every single other pin. I didn't completely mangle my board, which should be obvious from the picture, and there is no circuitry that I can find outside of the chip that could produce the results I see from my multimeter. I can think of reasons why this circuitry would exist inside of the chip however, and if the internal diode went bad and is now allowing bidirectional current that would explain everything.
The only reason I'm hesitating is because I have very limited experience with smt soldering (my Iris was the first time I had ever done it).
Well, that's annoying. I would offer to replace the 32u4 for you but shipping two ways may make it less appealing than just getting that new PCB that was offered.
You were right that it wasn't the chip...apparently one of the switch pads is incredibly easy to bridge to ground, to the point were you can bridge it, desolder the switch and the bridge will still remain
Pictures of the evil pad in question to come tomorrow when I'm not falling asleep
EDIT: yup, that was the culprit, a single leg shorted to ground...now I need to figure out how to fix the two LEDs that I murdered in the process of fixing the switches
EDIT 2: how do you desolder one of the rgb leds with a conventional soldering iron? I removed all of the visible solder and it's still stuck...
Here's the bad pad in question. You can't really tell from this, but the ground is exposed a fraction of a millimeter away from the pad...Show Image(https://imgur.com/EkR739B.jpg)
Glad you found the short. For the LED, I typically use either low-temperature solder or a hot-air reflow station. It's definitely going to be trickier without those. Did you use wick?
I tried using wick, but the LED still wouldn't come off
I was thinking hot air is the way to do it, but I really don't want to drop a few hundred on one right now...
For what reason? That's the least likely culprit.
Every single IO pin has a voltage drop going towards one IO pin, which is the pin that takes in the row input for the function key. Flipping the leads results in an open circuit, which means that there is at least one diode in between this IO pin and all of the other IO pins. Unfortunately with switches soldered in I can only see half of the board, but there's no obvious defects that I can see, especially one that would cause this pin to get connected to every single other pin. I didn't completely mangle my board, which should be obvious from the picture, and there is no circuitry that I can find outside of the chip that could produce the results I see from my multimeter. I can think of reasons why this circuitry would exist inside of the chip however, and if the internal diode went bad and is now allowing bidirectional current that would explain everything.
The only reason I'm hesitating is because I have very limited experience with smt soldering (my Iris was the first time I had ever done it).
Well, that's annoying. I would offer to replace the 32u4 for you but shipping two ways may make it less appealing than just getting that new PCB that was offered.
You were right that it wasn't the chip...apparently one of the switch pads is incredibly easy to bridge to ground, to the point were you can bridge it, desolder the switch and the bridge will still remain
Pictures of the evil pad in question to come tomorrow when I'm not falling asleep
EDIT: yup, that was the culprit, a single leg shorted to ground...now I need to figure out how to fix the two LEDs that I murdered in the process of fixing the switches
EDIT 2: how do you desolder one of the rgb leds with a conventional soldering iron? I removed all of the visible solder and it's still stuck...
Here's the bad pad in question. You can't really tell from this, but the ground is exposed a fraction of a millimeter away from the pad...Show Image(https://imgur.com/EkR739B.jpg)
Glad you found the short. For the LED, I typically use either low-temperature solder or a hot-air reflow station. It's definitely going to be trickier without those. Did you use wick?
I tried using wick, but the LED still wouldn't come off
I was thinking hot air is the way to do it, but I really don't want to drop a few hundred on one right now...
Since the lead is busted anyway you can carefully lift each leg as you heat it, or get some low-melting-point solder.
Just those pics I talked about earlier, nothing too crazy and nothing that's not fixable, just looks like it's been through the ringer.Just a heads up, yours looks exactly like mine did before removing the plastic film cover. Have you removed the weight and made sure you don't have the film there?
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
@KaosJ-- You think there's a remote possibility of a R2 of these kits? I've emailed Vincent, but no reply. I'm sure he's busy with whatever new ventures he's tackling.
Southpaw version! Numpad AND nav keys on the left side. I have the KLE and everything for it. I have yet to see a 96 left-handed but I think it would be the pinnacle of functionality for me.@KaosJ-- You think there's a remote possibility of a R2 of these kits? I've emailed Vincent, but no reply. I'm sure he's busy with whatever new ventures he's tackling.
I'll ask and see what he says, not sure how many people might be interested since R1 was already around 300 keebs.
If there would be a R2 i would prefer something a bit different, don't you?
I'll ask and see what he says, not sure how many people might be interested since R1 was already around 300 keebs.
If there would be a R2 i would prefer something a bit different, don't you?
Southpaw version! Numpad AND nav keys on the left side. I have the KLE and everything for it. I have yet to see a 96 left-handed but I think it would be the pinnacle of functionality for me.@KaosJ-- You think there's a remote possibility of a R2 of these kits? I've emailed Vincent, but no reply. I'm sure he's busy with whatever new ventures he's tackling.
I'll ask and see what he says, not sure how many people might be interested since R1 was already around 300 keebs.
If there would be a R2 i would prefer something a bit different, don't you?
The PCB is held to the plate with your switches, which is top-mounted to the case.
The PCB is held to the plate with your switches, which is top-mounted to the case.
Yep, I see that.. Curious if there is any flex since most people use standoffs on their aluminum case to support the center of the pcb, maybe it doesn't matter. Either way it looks like a great board. =)
Number pad on the left side (and nav cluster depending on the layout) :)
Every time this thread comes back to life I hope it’s the announcement of a Round 2 — for the record, I’d love to pay for one of these, and I’d do unspeakable things for a southpaw PCB / plate and god knows what for a SS version (with said PCB)