[GB] ADK18 Numpad - Shipping now! Invoices out.

[nevin]

ok. sorry for the delay. wanted to make sure the changes in the firmware worked (and i hadn't even soldered in the diodes yet till just about an hour ago)
here are two images of the two versions of the firmware. blue is the Fn (function layer)

 paladinpad_rev2_default-mac.hex (53.74 kB - downloaded 102 times.)
 paladinpad_rev2_default-pc.hex (53.74 kB - downloaded 101 times.)

- please check the numlock function if you use it. i couldn't see if it was working (on a mac with a custom non-standard keyboard (no leds) & have never really messed with numlock). tried keyboard viewer, but no luck.
- some of the RGB functions can be minimized to one key adding shift to go the opposite direction. (thoughts?)
- i want to try the Fn key as a tap/hold combo. i've seen it done before & think i know what the codes are but need to test it. this is pretty close to what i've been using as a number pad on a function layer on my keyboard (with esc & tab and i really like it)

- i'll also zip & upload all of the changes i made for others to play with.

also, let me know if you want a specific layout programed either on the main layer or the function layer if your not sure how to build the firmware until it gets listed in the QMK Configurator.

[nevin]

another mac version

 paladinpad_rev2_mac-my-layout.hex (53.74 kB - downloaded 101 times.)

- moved the Fn to the zero key. if you tap it you get zero, if you hold it, it becomes Fn. (exactly what i was hoping for). i think it works better at the bottom, like any normal modifier/Fn key. it makes the other combinations easier to do... it's a lot more awkward to hold the Fn key in the top left position with your index finger and try to find the other key you're looking for with your thumb or other fingers UNDER you hand.
- added esc & tab to the numpad (been using it this way on another board for over a year and really like it)
- got rid of some of the led controls, you just have to add shift to get the decrease value instead of the increase value
- added navigation: home, end, page up, page down and arrows as keys on the Fn layer
- soft reset works instead of pressing button on bottom of pcb
 
...esc works as "clear" on the mac calculator as well

also attached are both ZIP files, my changes as well as the original. The folder needs added to your clone of QMK to be able to build any firmware.

changes made to:
- paladinpad.h    (redefined keymap to non-specific keys)
- rules.mk    (in build options)
- /keymaps/default/keymap.c     (filled in the KC_NO with the other positions of the keys)

the my changes ZIP also contains all 3 versions of the firmware's hex files.
 my_changes_paladinpad.zip (76.94 kB - downloaded 105 times.)
 original_paladinpad.zip (4.9 kB - downloaded 125 times.)

thank you all for all your work on this. i've been wanting a small programmable (mac style) numpad to be able to play and dig into QMK further without using my daily keyboard as the guinea pig. the PCB looks great and has more options than you could ask for in this form factor. excellent job @nachie !

[Oni74]

ok. sorry for the delay. wanted to make sure the changes in the firmware worked (and i hadn't even soldered in the diodes yet till just about an hour ago)
here are two images of the two versions of the firmware. blue is the Fn (function layer)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)

- please check the numlock function if you use it. i couldn't see if it was working (on a mac with a custom non-standard keyboard (no leds) & have never really messed with numlock). tried keyboard viewer, but no luck.
- some of the RGB functions can be minimized to one key adding shift to go the opposite direction. (thoughts?)
- i want to try the Fn key as a tap/hold combo. i've seen it done before & think i know what the codes are but need to test it. this is pretty close to what i've been using as a number pad on a function layer on my keyboard (with esc & tab and i really like it)
(Attachment Link)
- i'll also zip & upload all of the changes i made for others to play with.

also, let me know if you want a specific layout programed either on the main layer or the function layer if your not sure how to build the firmware until it gets listed in the QMK Configurator.

Thank you for this! I downloaded the PC hex file and confirmed everything works as described! I'll build and post pictures later today.

[SpenceIsGarbage]

Just finished soldering in the diodes, 7305 Millmax Sockets and flashing in GMK. Everything is working great. So happy to finally have a matching numpad. Here are a couple of pics:

[ Specified attachment is not available ]

[ Specified attachment is not available ]

[ Specified attachment is not available ]

I have three separate ADK64 builds so all I have to do is swap the keycaps when I swap my keeb and voila! I do still need to see about grabbing one of the translucent ones if any will be available soon as
I have a beautiful translucent ADK64 build with Jelly POM caps that needs a matching numpad as well 

Thanks again!

[ReDsNoTDeAd]

Just finished soldering in the diodes, 7305 Millmax Sockets and flashing in GMK. Everything is working great. So happy to finally have a matching numpad. Here are a couple of pics:

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

I have three separate ADK64 builds so all I have to do is swap the keycaps when I swap my keeb and voila! I do still need to see about grabbing one of the translucent ones if any will be available soon as
I have a beautiful translucent ADK64 build with Jelly POM caps that needs a matching numpad as well 

Thanks again!

Stunning. I love the Japanese keycaps on the ADK64

Do you need an apple logo by chance? I may have an extra.

[SpenceIsGarbage]

Just finished soldering in the diodes, 7305 Millmax Sockets and flashing in GMK. Everything is working great. So happy to finally have a matching numpad. Here are a couple of pics:

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

I have three separate ADK64 builds so all I have to do is swap the keycaps when I swap my keeb and voila! I do still need to see about grabbing one of the translucent ones if any will be available soon as
I have a beautiful translucent ADK64 build with Jelly POM caps that needs a matching numpad as well 

Thanks again!

Stunning. I love the Japanese keycaps on the ADK64

Do you need an apple logo by chance? I may have an extra.

Thank you! I actually took new pics and replaced them with better ones.

I actually do need an Apply logo! Haven't been able to find one without possible ripping it off an old AEK or something (which I don't have the heart to do).

[ReDsNoTDeAd]

Just finished soldering in the diodes, 7305 Millmax Sockets and flashing in GMK. Everything is working great. So happy to finally have a matching numpad. Here are a couple of pics:

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

I have three separate ADK64 builds so all I have to do is swap the keycaps when I swap my keeb and voila! I do still need to see about grabbing one of the translucent ones if any will be available soon as
I have a beautiful translucent ADK64 build with Jelly POM caps that needs a matching numpad as well 

Thanks again!

Stunning. I love the Japanese keycaps on the ADK64

Do you need an apple logo by chance? I may have an extra.

Thank you! I actually took new pics and replaced them with better ones.

I actually do need an Apply logo! Haven't been able to find one without possible ripping it off an old AEK or something (which I don't have the heart to do).

Ok. I'll email you when I locate my stash of them. I'm stealing those pictures for my instagram page if that's alright

[SpenceIsGarbage]

Of course! Shot you a message with my instagram handle -- tag me in them!

[Oni74]

ok. sorry for the delay. wanted to make sure the changes in the firmware worked (and i hadn't even soldered in the diodes yet till just about an hour ago)
here are two images of the two versions of the firmware. blue is the Fn (function layer)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)

- please check the numlock function if you use it. i couldn't see if it was working (on a mac with a custom non-standard keyboard (no leds) & have never really messed with numlock). tried keyboard viewer, but no luck.
- some of the RGB functions can be minimized to one key adding shift to go the opposite direction. (thoughts?)
- i want to try the Fn key as a tap/hold combo. i've seen it done before & think i know what the codes are but need to test it. this is pretty close to what i've been using as a number pad on a function layer on my keyboard (with esc & tab and i really like it)
(Attachment Link)
- i'll also zip & upload all of the changes i made for others to play with.

also, let me know if you want a specific layout programed either on the main layer or the function layer if your not sure how to build the firmware until it gets listed in the QMK Configurator.

Thank you for this! I downloaded the PC hex file and confirmed everything works as described! I'll build and post pictures later today.

Following up with a pic! Thanks again for the hex file!!

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

[nevin]

looks great. you're welcome.
what caps are those?

[ReDsNoTDeAd]

looks great. you're welcome.
what caps are those?

Looks like GMK Yuri. Can't speak for the artisan.

That looks really good - the translucent + yuri has to be a favourite of mine.

[Oni74]

looks great. you're welcome.
what caps are those?

Looks like GMK Yuri. Can't speak for the artisan.

That looks really good - the translucent + yuri has to be a favourite of mine.

Actually they are Tai-Hao Clownfish set - very similar to GMK Yuri but 1/5 the price. I was originally going to install GMK Carbon, but I think the brighter orange of Clownfish/Yuri fits the ADK18 better.

[nevin]

Tai-Hao was going to be my guess, but wasn't sure what the colorway was. i have an older red set before they started copying the GMK colorways.
thanks.

[Oni74]

@nevin It looks like I spoke too soon. When I'd tested, I used QMK configurator to test and assumed all was well. However, when I tried to use my numpad in realworld use, the numlock failed to work, and the board is stuck in arrow key mode. FN+Enter does not toggle Numlock.

[nevin]

Ok. I'll look at it again.

[nevin]

ok, here we go....
took a bit to dig out an old ridiculously slow windows netbook & grab the switchhitter app to test it on but num lock is now functioning in this version of the firmware (attached below). i did test it on windows and the navigation does function as intended when num lock is off. that OS has little presence in our house. now, there is no led indicator for it and there is no per switch LEDs to be able to use as toggle indicators. we might be able to have the indication be reflected in the underglow but i don't think many got the translucent cases to be able to see it.

- for some reason numlock was not registering when it was on a Fn layer (accessed by Fn+Ent = NumLock)
- putting numlock back on the default layer as a regular key does register correctly though (...strange)
- so i moved the Fn key down to "0". if you tap 0, you get 0. if you hold 0 it's Fn (a way to dual purpose a key)

here's a visual of the keymap and the files are attached below


changes to the keymap

Code: [Select]

    /* DEFAULT */
KEYMAP(
KC_NLCK, KC_PSLS, KC_PAST, KC_PMNS,
KC_P7, KC_P8, KC_P9, KC_PPLS,
KC_P4, KC_P5, KC_P6, KC_PPLS,
KC_P1, KC_P2, KC_P3, KC_PENT,
LT(1, KC_P0), KC_PDOT, KC_PDOT, KC_PENT),

    /* FUNCTION */
KEYMAP(
KC_TRNS, RGB_TOG, RGB_MOD, KC_TRNS,
        RGB_HUI, RGB_SAI, RGB_VAI, KC_TRNS,
        RGB_HUD, RGB_SAD, RGB_VAD, KC_TRNS,
KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS,
KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS, RESET, KC_TRNS)
firmware:  paladinpad_rev2_pc_numlock_fix.hex (52.87 kB - downloaded 95 times.)

[Oni74]

@nevin - just installed and tested successfully!

Thank you very much for going out of your way to develop a fix. Digging up an old netbook and going through its sluggish performance to do it deserves some serious kudos.

[nevin]

thanks... yes, a little more bald.... lol

this isn't the first time i've had navigation keys not work in a function layer in QMK... so my first thought was to move it out to the main layer, and that worked. there's no special coding for the navigation when numlock is off, the keys report keypad numbers instead of keyboard numbers and the OS does the rest of the interpolation. that's why i had to dig out something with windows, on a mac, numlock hasn't done anything in decades... don't know if it ever did.

[kairuwu]

finally built mine after some troubleshooting bad switches; but I still have a few issues that I'm not sure about.

1. the plate moves around a lot in the case

The plate doesn't get pressed at all so that makes sense, but I would like for there to be little to no play rather than the amount present.

2. the usb-c port of the paladin pcb seems to be finicky

I have to press my cable down to get it to no be constantly connecting and disconnecting. don't have another cable to test but the cable works fine with my other usb-c builds.

3. one of the screws does not seem to thread properly

when I screw in without the bottom case in the way it screws in fine but with the case there it doesn't and just keeps on spinning

any ideas on how to fix these issues?

[ReDsNoTDeAd]

finally built mine after some troubleshooting bad switches; but I still have a few issues that I'm not sure about.

1. the plate moves around a lot in the case

The plate doesn't get pressed at all so that makes sense, but I would like for there to be little to no play rather than the amount present.

2. the usb-c port of the paladin pcb seems to be finicky

I have to press my cable down to get it to no be constantly connecting and disconnecting. don't have another cable to test but the cable works fine with my other usb-c builds.

3. one of the screws does not seem to thread properly

when I screw in without the bottom case in the way it screws in fine but with the case there it doesn't and just keeps on spinning

any ideas on how to fix these issues?

1. I'm assuming you've got an Alps plate. They're thinner, so try putting some dental bands or o-rings around the pegs to sandwich it in there.

2. I'll check with nachie. If the hardware is borked we have extras to get you fixed up.

3. Make sure the screw threads into the brass insert in the top when it's disassembled, and make sure there is no crud in the bottom case hole. The reason it spins is because it's not catching the thread iirc.

[kairuwu]

finally built mine after some troubleshooting bad switches; but I still have a few issues that I'm not sure about.

1. the plate moves around a lot in the case

The plate doesn't get pressed at all so that makes sense, but I would like for there to be little to no play rather than the amount present.

2. the usb-c port of the paladin pcb seems to be finicky

I have to press my cable down to get it to no be constantly connecting and disconnecting. don't have another cable to test but the cable works fine with my other usb-c builds.

3. one of the screws does not seem to thread properly

when I screw in without the bottom case in the way it screws in fine but with the case there it doesn't and just keeps on spinning

any ideas on how to fix these issues?

1. I'm assuming you've got an Alps plate. They're thinner, so try putting some dental bands or o-rings around the pegs to sandwich it in there.

2. I'll check with nachie. If the hardware is borked we have extras to get you fixed up.

3. Make sure the screw threads into the brass insert in the top when it's disassembled, and make sure there is no crud in the bottom case hole. The reason it spins is because it's not catching the thread iirc.

Thanks for the reply.

1. I'll look into getting some o-rings.

2. yea I found another usb-c cable and it has the same issue as the first cable where it wouldn't register as connected to the pc unless I pressed the cable down.  It still gets power as evidenced by the backlight turning on but it doesn't actually connect to my pc.

3. with the case disassembled and the bottom half out of the way the screw threads just fine, but with the bottom it doesn't seem to properly thread. there's a little bit of resistance but I can keep turning the screw endlessly.  tried all of the screws in the one corner and the same situation occurs.

[schlep]

Are there any extra PCBs (including the diodes) which I can purchase? I may have screw up the PBC while trying to solder the diode.

Also, are there any alternative PCBs out there in the market which I can use with the case? Soldering the diode is so much more painful than soldering the switches alone. I'd like to have one which does not require us to solder the diodes to the PCB.

Thank you!

[ZivZulander]

Finally got around to building mine. Painted the case black, so it will match another keyboard I'm still working on. Pic has Tai Hao caps, but obviously not ideal (just finished cleaning AEK caps now, though, so I may put those in). Everything seems to be good with it, except the aforementioned play/wiggle of the (Alps) plate, which I think can remedy later, not a big deal. Blue Alps are glorious in this. 

May want another kit in near future, if there are any extras still.

[ReDsNoTDeAd]

Are there any extra PCBs (including the diodes) which I can purchase? I may have screw up the PBC while trying to solder the diode.

Also, are there any alternative PCBs out there in the market which I can use with the case? Soldering the diode is so much more painful than soldering the switches alone. I'd like to have one which does not require us to solder the diodes to the PCB.

Thank you!

Nachie has extras, but he is away until the end of February, so his extras are not available until then. Bad timing!

Any function row-less numpad should work. I believe ymdk makes one on AliExpress.

[ReDsNoTDeAd]

Finally got around to building mine. Painted the case black, so it will match another keyboard I'm still working on. Pic has Tai Hao caps, but obviously not ideal (just finished cleaning AEK caps now, though, so I may put those in). Everything seems to be good with it, except the aforementioned play/wiggle of the (Alps) plate, which I think can remedy later, not a big deal. Blue Alps are glorious in this. 

May want another kit in near future, if there are any extras still.

Show Image

Looks awesome! What was your process for painting the print - did you use any primer etc?

And dental bands are your friend. They will sandwich in there and add the thickness (the missing 0.4mm between the Alps and MX plates). That's what I use on my Alps build.

[nevin]

@ZivZulander - nice!