I use the fkeys for macros and shortcuts.
Yes, the printer's big. I designed it to do a complete TKL horizontal and vertically with room to spare.
Big printers have their own set of unique problems, it's a very different beast from your typical printer. This one is borderline "large format" and pushes the limit in terms of common parts. It doesn't have a heated bed because it would need A LOT or power to heat it (somewhere in the neighborhood of 800watts). On a long print (which happens more than I would like), it would cost me about $25 a day in electricity between the printer and the air conditioner to keep the house cool. You still couldn't realistically do an ABS object more than few inches anyhow which is why I have a small printer as well. Heated beds also bring other problems with them, such as hourglass shaped prints, broken glass, warped beds... For every problem they solve, they create another and on a huge printer, they are just a nuisance. On a big printer, simple is good.
With high humidity, the glue I use softens up, pushing the head lower just scrapes off the glue, especially at the heights I often print at. As for painters tape, with a bed this size, painters tape gets expensive pretty quick. I was going through a roll of 3in every week or so. I get about 2 months out of a $2 glue stick and I don't get weird patters or blue tape stuck in the plastic. If you have a heated bed, try Aquanet hairspray.
The pictures actually look much worse than it is (I did some tweaks that helped later on), but the print mostly looks bad because I just swapped the cooling fan (and my slicer) recently and it was causing the head to cycle up and down too far in temp. It was cold printing on the infill, and stringing on the slower external perimeters. I need to recalibrate the PID and maybe lower the fan speed. It wasn't going fast, only about 120mm/s, but with the fan blowing more than normal, and the flowrate needed for the layer height (.17), when it hit high speed sections, the PLA was just sucking the heat right out of the hot end. Normally, I probably could have run this at about .1mm layer height @200mm/s and gotten better results. I just didn't want to wait 18 hours for the print.
By the way, the surface you see is what rested against the glass, it prints upside down then gets flipped over. If you think the surface finish was bad on that, you should see how warped and twisted it is in person. I'll have to design in some things to keep it from distorting so bad and check the printer's calibration (it looks high in the center, gotta love deltas).