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Help with wiring and flashing 5x7 dactyl manu
Jignoni:
Hello,
i was hoping for some help here with a dactyl manuform I'm trying to build (first hardwired build).
here is the issue. its ready but when I flash it with the 5x7 from qmk configurator it finishes the flash but nothing works. If i flash it with the left hand only i get two keys to work.
so I'm lost. It could be that i messed up the wiring to the pro micro ( I'm using a "bit usb-c"), I followed a guide for a 5x6 and had an extra column to figure out.
anyways this is my dactyl
cant find the keymap for it anywhere so this could be my problem ?
and this is the wiring I did with some modifications.
since i had an extra column i put that in pin 3 and the rj9 in 2 (thinking I could some how change that at some point) more likely this is my problem ?
fpazos:
First of all, handwiring is difficult and sometimes quite unestable if not done properly. Be sure that you have good solder points, you can check this with a promicro, using a led and a breadboard and some wires, check the start of the column and the end of the row, if it lights when pressing then is ok or the problem is the promicro connection.
****ty diagram of the ****ty invention: https://drive.google.com/file/d/11Nkhe_AkVW-JqsjypgpDfKvgOHuQLNRr/view?usp=sharing
Second, if you have modified the default wiring, no matter how little, then you should download the qmk source code and modify it to reflex your changes, compile it and burn it. It's not that difficult.
If you upload some detailed photos of the real thing it'll help us.
nevin:
--- Quote ---since i had an extra column i put that in pin 3 and the rj9 in 2 (thinking I could some how change that at some point) more likely this is my problem?
--- End quote ---
yes, that's part of it. if you put a column on pin 3 "D0" which the software thinks is the serial connection for the other half.
the other thing is, i don't know if the 5x7 in the configurator is the same as your modified 5x6 wiring. don't think it is. see the attached screen shot of the 5x7 layout from qmk configurator.
are you comfortable in qmk source code? or have no idea? (there's no wrong answer) we can help if needed
here's a cross reference between the two controllers, looks like there's no surprises (i hadn't heard of the bit-c before)
1. we'll need to map out your matrix
2. we'll need to adjust the firmware to match your setup
3. i also noted that the bit-c uses DFU for a bootloader instead of caterina, which this info may help if you couldn't ge them to flash. the run of the mill promicros use caterina as a bootloader. being DFU is a good thing, just a little different than a standard promicro
for starters (if it's not too difficult) can we switch pins 2 & 3 around
- extra column on pin 2 D1
- serial to pin2 D0
just because that's kind of the standard on split boards
(you are using serial correct? or are you using i2c? if using i2c you'll need an extra wire to the rj connector and some resistors, serial is fine (i prefer it for these simple builds), but again, we need to make sure it's specified correctly in the firmware because you can choose either)
for the mapping, can we get a diagram or at least some good pics of the underside so we can see what's wired to what
also, did you pay attention to the direction of the diodes? the line or black stripe should be away from the switch, the black stripe should not be connected to the switch leg using the wiring example you provided. you can do it the other way as well, you'll just strobe the rows & columns differently
here are two good handwiring articles i refer to a lot
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=87689.0
https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?t=1067
i started a KLE for the matrix (play with it if you find it helpful)
http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/2fb02eabda55657f3fea88a66e75e934
suicidal_orange:
Impossible to say for sure without pics of your wiring but two keys working suggests all the other diodes are the wrong way round, or those two diodes are dead. Do you have a multimeter/continuity tester? The current should only flow one way so swapping the probes doesn't beep.
Assuming RJ9 is the connection between the boards that would need to be on a specific pin so you can't move it to make the wiring tidy. I'm assuming the bit-c is pinout compatible with the pro micro? If not maybe nothing is connected where you think it is which will not work well...
Jignoni:
hello again, finally of work so i can work on this again.
so I checked all the diodes and the black is always away from the switch
a picture of my wiring
@
--- Quote from: fpazos on Sat, 27 February 2021, 02:38:54 ---you can check this with a promicro, using a led and a breadboard and some wires, check the start of the column and the end of the row, if it lights when pressing then is ok or the problem is the promicro connection.
Second, if you have modified the default wiring, no matter how little, then you should download the qmk source code and modify it to reflex your changes, compile it and burn it. It's not that difficult.
If you upload some detailed photos of the real thing it'll help us.
--- End quote ---
alright i made the test unit from a spare bit-c i had (that's what you met right ?)
having a lot of problems pressing switches and holding the probes :confused:
i think my wiring vs qmk firmware is the first step to check since that is obviously a problem even if it might not be the only one
--- Quote from: nevin on Sat, 27 February 2021, 04:41:17 ---
--- Quote ---since i had an extra column i put that in pin 3 and the rj9 in 2 (thinking I could some how change that at some point) more likely this is my problem?
--- End quote ---
yes, that's part of it. if you put a column on pin 3 "D0" which the software thinks is the serial connection for the other half.
the other thing is, i don't know if the 5x7 in the configurator is the same as your modified 5x6 wiring. don't think it is. see the attached screen shot of the 5x7 layout from qmk configurator.
(Attachment Link)
are you comfortable in qmk source code? or have no idea? (there's no wrong answer) we can help if needed
here's a cross reference between the two controllers, looks like there's no surprises (i hadn't heard of the bit-c before)
(Attachment Link)
1. we'll need to map out your matrix
2. we'll need to adjust the firmware to match your setup
3. i also noted that the bit-c uses DFU for a bootloader instead of caterina, which this info may help if you couldn't ge them to flash. the run of the mill promicros use caterina as a bootloader. being DFU is a good thing, just a little different than a standard promicro
for starters (if it's not too difficult) can we switch pins 2 & 3 around
- extra column on pin 2 D1
- serial to pin2 D0
just because that's kind of the standard on split boards
(you are using serial correct? or are you using i2c? if using i2c you'll need an extra wire to the rj connector and some resistors, serial is fine (i prefer it for these simple builds), but again, we need to make sure it's specified correctly in the firmware because you can choose either)
for the mapping, can we get a diagram or at least some good pics of the underside so we can see what's wired to what
also, did you pay attention to the direction of the diodes? the line or black stripe should be away from the switch, the black stripe should not be connected to the switch leg using the wiring example you provided. you can do it the other way as well, you'll just strobe the rows & columns differently
here are two good handwiring articles i refer to a lot
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=87689.0
https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?t=1067
i started a KLE for the matrix (play with it if you find it helpful)
http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/2fb02eabda55657f3fea88a66e75e934
--- End quote ---
I have made some qmk firmware the hard way to make a "custom layout" for a kbd75 just following some youtube videos. I would not say Im good.
the bit-c was supposed to be a drop in replacement for the pro micro and it flashed with no problems. Its just hard to get pro micro in Iceland with out playing 50$ for shipping
I swapped the pins so serial is back on 3 D0 and extra column is on 2 D1
I am using serial for this build
for the mapping, is there a good tool to show this ?
here is my attempt in paint sorry haha
note that the switch in the red circle is not on mine. i have a 5 button thumb cluster
1. we'll need to map out your matrix
2. we'll need to adjust the firmware to match your setup
this is where I think i have to start right ? cant test anything with out a firmware that makes sense
3. i also noted that the bit-c uses DFU for a bootloader instead of caterina, which this info may help if you couldn't ge them to flash. the run of the mill promicros use caterina as a bootloader. being DFU is a good thing, just a little different than a standard promicro
I did figure this out with the help of some guides and it does flash
--- Quote from: suicidal_orange on Sat, 27 February 2021, 04:46:36 ---Impossible to say for sure without pics of your wiring but two keys working suggests all the other diodes are the wrong way round, or those two diodes are dead. Do you have a multimeter/continuity tester? The current should only flow one way so swapping the probes doesn't beep.
Assuming RJ9 is the connection between the boards that would need to be on a specific pin so you can't move it to make the wiring tidy. I'm assuming the bit-c is pinout compatible with the pro micro? If not maybe nothing is connected where you think it is which will not work well...
--- End quote ---
i have a simple multi meter somewhere but i did some preliminary testing with the test unit fpazos showed above to test the diodes and they look to work.
im sure at t his point that i messed up the firmware and need to fix that first to see if something else is wrong
And wow thanks for all the work you guys put in to this
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