geekhack Marketplace > Group Buys and Preorders

[feedback] Poker metal case construction

(1/17) > >>

EDIT: autocad file and picture
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 41289[/ATTACH]

This is not an interest check or group buy, that will happen later.
Some people might have seen that before I was trying to make a metal case for a Filco, but Vortex recently showed off a CNC'd one that looks better than what I could do. A lot of people were kind of dubious about the poker/pure case they had though so I thought I'd do that instead.
I finally managed to catch a time where my friend and I can get together to go to the metalworking shop his dad owns and it's going to be this Thursday, so I need to get things finalized for then.

I had already taken measurements for the Poker a long time ago but I'm going to go over them again. Some things for your consideration that I want feedback on though are:

1) Thickness of the casing. I was thinking about 1/8" or 3/16".
2) Should I even cut out a hole for the DIP switch access? Most people only touch it once, and then not having the hole in the bottom might be nicer. If you did need to change them you could remove the PCB for a second to switch it, which just involves removing 5 screws and is easy to do for something that you don't have to do often.
3) Instead of having cylinders sticking up from the bottom of the case to accept the screws, should I just cut threaded holes into the case itself? Then the PCB could sit on the bottom of the case (with a thin cushion of some fabric) and would be sturdier, since some people talk about how the Poker's PCB flexes.
4) Maybe have a mirrored top piece that could be hinged to act as a cover? Would need some latch on the front to close it as well.
5) How high up do you want the size of the case to come relative to the keys? Just to the bottom edge of the key?

Any other feedback would be appreciated! If someone is particularly good with autoCAD and wants to draw it up once I get all the dimensions that would be good too. I did it myself with the Filco blueprints but it took me forever because I'm an autoCAD noob.

imo imsto had basically the ideal design for a poker case

flat tray with lip somewhere between 14-17mm tall, 3-5mm thick alu all the way around, rounded edges everywhere possible; no cylinders for board mounting, instead drill and tap holes and countersink for a standard metric nylon washer about 0.5-1mm deep. on the bottom (ie, the side that lies on one's desk), drill and tap for some standard metric machine screw(s) on left and right side, and machine your favorite standoff design.

anyway, i've started a design in sketchup, and have both a poker and a digital caliper; let me know if you need help (assuming you can actually make this happen in the next month...)


--- Quote from: mkawa;519714 ---anyway, i've started a design in sketchup, and have both a poker and a digital caliper; let me know if you need help (assuming you can actually make this happen in the next month...)
--- End quote ---

Here's what I have to the nearest .5 mm just using a ruler. If you'd like to verify it that would be good. I don't think that I intend to cut out a hole to access the DIP switches because you basically only need to set them once and you will likely never change them after, so having a hole on the bottom for it just seems ugly. If you need to change the DIP switches you can get to them easily by removing 8 keycaps to get at 5 screws.

-286 mm across
-94 mm tall
-2 mm thick

HOLES (measured to center, with directions given with the switches facing up)
-side (x2)
   -37 mm from bottom
   -2.5 mm from edge
   -2 mm in diameter
-bottom (spacebar)
   -95 mm from right side
   -9 mm from bottom
   -2 mm in diameter
-top (x2)
   -25.5 mm from side
   -66 mm from bottom
   -2 mm in diameter
-14 mm to 22 mm across, from left side (need to cut this out)
-3 mm tall (maximum clearance required of all objects sticking from bottom side of PCB)

-10.5 mm from top of PCB to bottom of keycap
-3 mm from bottom of PCB to bottom of USB connection
-2 mm PCB thickness
-TOTAL = 15.5 mm from base of case to top of walls

Also, I should mention that this is not going to be CNC'd. He has some machine to do cuts and then another to do bends, so in autoCAD I'm just making a 2D blueprint, as though the case were an unfolded cube.

Doesn't look like much, but the poker case is fairly simple. It's built to the dimensions listed above, with 1.5 mm allocated all around the PCB for a little bit of tolerance, and because you have to be able to tilt it a bit to get the USB receiving end in. The walls and USB cutout were raised 1 mm to allow for some cushioning, probably using this spongy, non-slippy material similar to what I had seen in imsto's cases.

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 41219[/ATTACH] [ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 41220[/ATTACH]

Link to the autoCAD file: (if somebody could label the dimensions that would be cool. I can't seem to remember how to do that, even though I managed to do it in my Filco blueprints. This was my second time using autoCAD. :P

So probably going to just tap the screw holes into the base of the case itself and not have a hole for the DIP switches. The machine will just cut out the + shape, bend it, then the corners will be welded together. Should be quick, easy and cheap to make. Probably going to make the walls of the case 3/16" thick, for those with a Filco, that's about the thickness of the back wall of the casing. The plastic poker case is a bit under 2/16".

Can we laser engrave the Poker logo somewhere like the filco on the front right? Or even on the bottom large? Just a thought. IM highly interested in this project.


[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

Go to full version