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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Sintpinty on Sun, 09 February 2020, 20:28:53
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I am having numerous issues with my Corsair K63 keyboard that make it a bit crappier to use than a standard keyboard.
Although I like it , the metallic ping is horrendous. The board is plastic but it makes a pinging sound that sounds very metallic. Is this normal for cherry mx reds?
The weight is also a turn off as I lose accuracy when typing. I am a fast typist. How would I mod the board so the springs are heavier?
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Better question: how to mod the board so the metallic ping is louder? Ping is the new thock
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Swap springs and add a bit of lube on them. Will get you the weight you want and relive the ping.
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Better question: how to mod the board so the metallic ping is louder? Ping is the new thock
I have a good mic so i might be able to record it.
Its a metallic ping and it sounds ugly af
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To swap the springs you'll need to desolder each switch, pop it out of the plate, open it, then you can swap the spring and do it all again backwards. Especially if it has an LED through each switch this will not be a fun job!
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To swap the springs you'll need to desolder each switch, pop it out of the plate, open it, then you can swap the spring and do it all again backwards. Especially if it has an LED through each switch this will not be a fun job!
Also don't forget the lead free solder OEM use since the law forces them to :)
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I am having numerous issues with my Corsair K63 keyboard that make it a bit crappier to use than a standard keyboard.
Although I like it , the metallic ping is horrendous. The board is plastic but it makes a pinging sound that sounds very metallic. Is this normal for cherry mx reds?
The weight is also a turn off as I lose accuracy when typing. I am a fast typist. How would I mod the board so the springs are heavier?
Every corsair board I have pings at least a little bit. I actually quite like it, with box navies in this K65, it is loud enough to remind me of buckling springs. I would say that other people probably agree, since there was a high school student who absolutely hated the sound of my F AT, liked my DC-2014, and now he hates my K65. lol
I don't follow the plastic Corsair boards, but the ping is probably from an internal metal plate that the switches are mounted to. If you're going to pull all of the switches, maybe you may as well swap in silent reds or something, or even just something better than Cherry.
I do agree that the decrease in speed/precision is due to the relatively light force required to bottom reds out. I don't think that that would be a problem if you were typing almost exclusively on Cherry MX reds for a few days, but you always make it sound like you're typing mostly on rubber domes, so you're probably bottoming out hard. I know I sure do on reds, but I'm typing mostly with box thick clicks otherwise ... so.
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To swap the springs you'll need to desolder each switch, pop it out of the plate, open it, then you can swap the spring and do it all again backwards. Especially if it has an LED through each switch this will not be a fun job!
Also don't forget the lead free solder OEM use since the law forces them to :)
Lead free solder was created by Satan
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To swap the springs you'll need to desolder each switch, pop it out of the plate, open it, then you can swap the spring and do it all again backwards. Especially if it has an LED through each switch this will not be a fun job!
Also don't forget the lead free solder OEM use since the law forces them to :)
Lead free solder was created by Satan
Yes, yes it was.
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Lead free solder was created by Satan
I've heard complaints about it, what are the big differences? If minor, is it really worth keeping lead inside the solder just so it's slightly easier to use?
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Lead free solder was created by Satan
I've heard complaints about it, what are the big differences? If minor, is it really worth keeping lead inside the solder just so it's slightly easier to use?
Leaded solders have lower melting points, meaning they're easier to work with. Joints made with leaded solder is also shinier, meaning it is easier to tell whether or not the joint is good. Most importantly, lead-free solder is much more likely to develop tin whiskers, which could eventually start causing short circuits.
There's so little lead involved, and you're not exactly eating the stuff anyway, that the existence of lead-free solder is a little bit ridiculous.
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Lead free solder was created by Satan
I've heard complaints about it, what are the big differences? If minor, is it really worth keeping lead inside the solder just so it's slightly easier to use?
Leaded solders have lower melting points, meaning they're easier to work with. Joints made with leaded solder is also shinier, meaning it is easier to tell whether or not the joint is good. Most importantly, lead-free solder is much more likely to develop tin whiskers, which could eventually start causing short circuits.
There's so little lead involved, and you're not exactly eating the stuff anyway, that the existence of lead-free solder is a little bit ridiculous.
That's a fair point, I myself have only done brazing so can't talk much about it. I wonder if the bigger issue isn't for the end user but rather the production; despite the low relative quantity, it's possible that with large enough volumes, processing lead is detrimental to the environment. Then again, it's probably better than coal which my congressmen are still in love with.
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Lead free solder was created by Satan
I've heard complaints about it, what are the big differences? If minor, is it really worth keeping lead inside the solder just so it's slightly easier to use?
Leaded solders have lower melting points, meaning they're easier to work with. Joints made with leaded solder is also shinier, meaning it is easier to tell whether or not the joint is good. Most importantly, lead-free solder is much more likely to develop tin whiskers, which could eventually start causing short circuits.
There's so little lead involved, and you're not exactly eating the stuff anyway, that the existence of lead-free solder is a little bit ridiculous.
That's a fair point, I myself have only done brazing so can't talk much about it. I wonder if the bigger issue isn't for the end user but rather the production; despite the low relative quantity, it's possible that with large enough volumes, processing lead is detrimental to the environment. Then again, it's probably better than coal which my congressmen are still in love with.
I imagine the flux core used in both types is worse for the environment, or your health, than the lead is.
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Lead free solder was created by Satan
I've heard complaints about it, what are the big differences? If minor, is it really worth keeping lead inside the solder just so it's slightly easier to use?
Leaded solders have lower melting points, meaning they're easier to work with. Joints made with leaded solder is also shinier, meaning it is easier to tell whether or not the joint is good. Most importantly, lead-free solder is much more likely to develop tin whiskers, which could eventually start causing short circuits.
There's so little lead involved, and you're not exactly eating the stuff anyway, that the existence of lead-free solder is a little bit ridiculous.
That's a fair point, I myself have only done brazing so can't talk much about it. I wonder if the bigger issue isn't for the end user but rather the production; despite the low relative quantity, it's possible that with large enough volumes, processing lead is detrimental to the environment. Then again, it's probably better than coal which my congressmen are still in love with.
I imagine the flux core used in both types is worse for the environment, or your health, than the lead is.
Or maybe it's the manufacturers cheaping out and using leading it as an excuse. Who knows?