[GB][FINISHED] Plates, PCBs and stabilisers - LeandreN Round 3

[rabs]

Completed my build today! Had some issues just being a beginner at making keyboards, but I think it turned out pretty nice! Thanks heaps to LeandreN for the group buy




Cable: Banggood (Blue/Grey)
PCB: LeandreN Winkeyless Tier 3
Stabs: LeandreN Group Buy
Case/Plate: Winkeyless Diffuser Case
Switches: Cherry MX Browns
LEDs: White
Keycaps: Deep Space

[itzmeluigi]

my enjoypbt set doesnt have keys for split backspace so i dont think i can do split backspace.

Use different keys from the same row. Since you're putting Esc as first key, you can use the Pipe/backslash (or whatever it is in your native layout) as 13th key and, say, num lock key as last.

Thanks that worked out perfectly  Now i just need to find a nice heavy alu case for it.

[TalkingTree]

my enjoypbt set doesnt have keys for split backspace so i dont think i can do split backspace.

Use different keys from the same row. Since you're putting Esc as first key, you can use the Pipe/backslash (or whatever it is in your native layout) as 13th key and, say, num lock key as last.

Thanks that worked out perfectly  Now i just need to find a nice heavy alu case for it.

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That looks great.

[LeandreN]

I just got a message from GON keyboard works. That's all

[TalkingTree]

I just got a message from GON keyboard works. That's all

Disclose the details already!

[f1xedgear]

I finished my build off last night at about 1am
Spent close to 2hrs desoldering all the switches so I could put the plate on. I almost gave up on the first switch, but it got pretty easy after the first couple.
I also put the switch LEDs in this time around, which I skipped before to make the desoldering easier.



Without the plate, I had some crooked and uneven switches, which kinda drove me nuts. This time, with the help of a plate, they turned out perfect:



The plate helps a lot with hiding the white PCB. (Here's what it looked like before). With the plate installed, everything looks nice and black, even with the LEDs on:



One more for good measure:



There's a couple more pictures in the album on Imgur.

[LeandreN]

I finished my build off last night at about 1am
Spent close to 2hrs desoldering all the switches so I could put the plate on. I almost gave up on the first switch, but it got pretty easy after the first couple.
I also put the switch LEDs in this time around, which I skipped before to make the desoldering easier.

Show Image

Without the plate, I had some crooked and uneven switches, which kinda drove me nuts. This time, with the help of a plate, they turned out perfect:

Show Image

The plate helps a lot with hiding the white PCB. (Here's what it looked like before). With the plate installed, everything looks nice and black, even with the LEDs on:

Show Image

One more for good measure:

Show Image

There's a couple more pictures in the album on Imgur.

Thanks for the details!
Glad the plate could help your keyboard.

[LeandreN]

Here is my build:



OG skidata, Ziptyze case and orange spacebar i found on Deskthority!

[TalkingTree]

Here is my build:

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OG skidata, Ziptyze case and orange spacebar i found on Deskthority!

Beautiful.

[sairex]

Has anyone had any issues trying to get the keyboard to go into Flash Programming mode? I've tried holding q, shift+Q but nothing seems to work. I can enter bootmapper mode (holding tab) no problem.

Holding Q works for the FaceW.
You need to hold down the standard Ctrl key for the B.Face X2. Mind you, the by standard Ctrl I mean the bottom left key, no matter if you remap it.

Thanks TalkingTree. I was only able to enter Flash Programming mode by holding Left-Ctrl + Q. Has anyone else experienced this? Do I have a B.Face X2?
Also, flashing the keymap has made my keypresses not work correctly at all. I've even tried wiping it clean and starting over by mapping each key, but it is still wonky.

[TalkingTree]

Here's a (not so) better picture of my keyboard.
Black aluminum plate, B.Face X2 PCB, Gateron Black switches, aluminum case from Pexon's store, OG Cherry PBT dyesub italian keycaps (except for enter and pipe).

[TalkingTree]

Do I have a B.Face X2?

If you got the PCB from this group buy, yes, you do. If you bought the SPRiT edition from the previous GB, then you have a FaceW.
Regarding your layout issue, you probably made mistakes in your matrix.
I can help you with that, but you might want to figure out on your own.

[sairex]

Yes, that was my mistake - for some reason I assumed that it was a FaceW. Everything works perfectly now, thanks!

[nathanrosspowell]

Here is my build:

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OG skidata, Ziptyze case and orange spacebar i found on Deskthority!

Awesome execution!

I'm waiting on the CF-LX Happy Style case to come through before I can build mine up  :rolleyes:  ;D

[LeandreN]

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=79244.0

[K.Mak]

Thanks for this LeandreN, this was my first GB outside of Massdrop and it went smoother than I could have hoped.

[LeandreN]

Thanks for this LeandreN, this was my first GB outside of Massdrop and it went smoother than I could have hoped.

Awesome, thanks !

[crashkaboom]

I'm not sure if this is helpful for anyone else, but I decided to go with a Tex case for my build and was faced with the fitment issues other members have mentioned. The fix was fairly simple so I figured I'd share it. I cut a piece of scrap paper so that that it fit fairly well inside the Tex case. Line the scrap paper up on the bottom of the PCB and rub a crayon or something over it to reveal the high spots (RGB LEDs). Use a hole puncher on each one of the marks so that you end up with a template to make the trouble zones on the ribs of the case (see images: http://imgur.com/a/T3QBH).

I set my Dremel up with the height adjustable "Multi Purpose Cutting Kit" (#565, good for half-assed routing) and a high speed cutter (#196). I laid some small pieces of stainless sheet metal across the case to support the Dremel, but you could probably use two Bic pens if you were so inclined. At this point it's just a matter of being patient and letting the bit do the work - push too hard and it bites and goes for a ride.

A note: the 196 bit, like most Dremel bits is trash for light duty work... but then again, Dremels aren't really milling tools are they? The outcome was less than perfect, but I feel the results were much nicer than if I had attacked it with a sanding barrel.

Sorry, I don't have more photos of the process but it was more improv than executing an actual plan.



A terrible photo of the finished product (lubed 65g purple Zealios, aluminum LeandreN (JD) plate, gun-metal Tex (lipless), and the ever-so-common Carbon SA keycaps.

[assumed_bivalve]

Anybody else still waiting for theirs?

I figure the East Coast blizzard in the US may have delayed the post office pretty significantly... also I had it shipped to work and they tend to hold onto things for a few days.

I'm not worried or anything.  It's fine.  Right?  Right.

[Numpy]

Anybody else still waiting for theirs?

I figure the East Coast blizzard in the US may have delayed the post office pretty significantly... also I had it shipped to work and they tend to hold onto things for a few days.

I'm not worried or anything.  It's fine.  Right?  Right.

I'm still waiting on mine but I live in Australia.

I hope you get your stuff soon!

[nathanrosspowell]

I'm not sure if this is helpful for anyone else, but I decided to go with a Tex case for my build and was faced with the fitment issues other members have mentioned. The fix was fairly simple so I figured I'd share it. I cut a piece of scrap paper so that that it fit fairly well inside the Tex case. Line the scrap paper up on the bottom of the PCB and rub a crayon or something over it to reveal the high spots (RGB LEDs). Use a hole puncher on each one of the marks so that you end up with a template to make the trouble zones on the ribs of the case (see images: http://imgur.com/a/T3QBH).

I set my Dremel up with the height adjustable "Multi Purpose Cutting Kit" (#565, good for half-assed routing) and a high speed cutter (#196). I laid some small pieces of stainless sheet metal across the case to support the Dremel, but you could probably use two Bic pens if you were so inclined. At this point it's just a matter of being patient and letting the bit do the work - push too hard and it bites and goes for a ride.

A note: the 196 bit, like most Dremel bits is trash for light duty work... but then again, Dremels aren't really milling tools are they? The outcome was less than perfect, but I feel the results were much nicer than if I had attacked it with a sanding barrel.

Sorry, I don't have more photos of the process but it was more improv than executing an actual plan.

Show Image

Show Image

A terrible photo of the finished product (lubed 65g purple Zealios, aluminum LeandreN (JD) plate, gun-metal Tex (lipless), and the ever-so-common Carbon SA keycaps.

I'm sure a lot of people will appreciate your walk through 

Just one question, sorry if it's dumb: Wouldn't it be easier to just remove the RGB leds?

[f1xedgear]

I'm sure a lot of people will appreciate your walk through 

Just one question, sorry if it's dumb: Wouldn't it be easier to just remove the RGB leds?

You would have to be able to desolder all 4 pins at once, which usually requires a special soldering tweezers. You could do it with 2 soldering irons, or just one if you are really quick...

[LeandreN]

This stuff is over on mechmarket now

[crashkaboom]

Just one question, sorry if it's dumb: Wouldn't it be easier to just remove the RGB leds?

It was an option I considered. I don't have a need for backlighting so much, but I wanted to keep the board and its components intact in the event that the build didn't satisfy me and I had to sell it off. This is my first build and I didn't want to run LEDs on the top either, since it would only make desoldering that much worse. The compromise: I'm using Gateron housings (Zealios specifically) and the backlighting peeks through a bit when I'm feeling "saucy" enough to switch it on.

Unrelated to the case issue... is anyone else here that used Zealios in their build struggling with key chatter/bouncing? My board is plagued with false clicks and I'm hesitant to just keep putting new Zealios in there to replace the suspected bads. I'm also disappointed that there's no  configurable debounce settings in the firmware (that I know of). I've tried a couple fixes I've found mentioned on GH, but nothing has cured the issues at this point.

[cjhard]

It's not really a problem that can be solved by debounce, as it's not a bouncing problem.

I fixed mine by pulling the switch tops off the ones that are causing problems, and then swapping the purple plunger with a different Zealio, and then testing to see if it was still causing issues. If after 3 or 4 unsuccessful plunger swaps, I then will pull the thicker metal leaf closer towards the plunger just slightly, test, and repeat until it no longer causes the problem.

[crashkaboom]

It's not really a problem that can be solved by debounce, as it's not a bouncing problem.

I fixed mine by pulling the switch tops off the ones that are causing problems, and then swapping the purple plunger with a different Zealio, and then testing to see if it was still causing issues. If after 3 or 4 unsuccessful plunger swaps, I then will pull the thicker metal leaf closer towards the plunger just slightly, test, and repeat until it no longer causes the problem.

I see. I attempted cleaning the contacts, and gently pulling the thicker leaf like you mentioned, but I haven't tried swapping new stems. I appreciate the feedback and I'm going to try swapping some stems tonight. Thanks.

[LeandreN]

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=79315.0

[eksuen]

Just one question, sorry if it's dumb: Wouldn't it be easier to just remove the RGB leds?

It was an option I considered. I don't have a need for backlighting so much, but I wanted to keep the board and its components intact in the event that the build didn't satisfy me and I had to sell it off. This is my first build and I didn't want to run LEDs on the top either, since it would only make desoldering that much worse. The compromise: I'm using Gateron housings (Zealios specifically) and the backlighting peeks through a bit when I'm feeling "saucy" enough to switch it on.

Unrelated to the case issue... is anyone else here that used Zealios in their build struggling with key chatter/bouncing? My board is plagued with false clicks and I'm hesitant to just keep putting new Zealios in there to replace the suspected bads. I'm also disappointed that there's no  configurable debounce settings in the firmware (that I know of). I've tried a couple fixes I've found mentioned on GH, but nothing has cured the issues at this point.

I soldered all my Zealios in last night. I tested all the switches briefly without keycaps installed and did not notice any chattering issues. Hope you'll be able to resolve all your chattering issues.

[Numpy]

Just recieved my stuff today and realised that there is no spacebar wire included for the stabs (assumedly to allow for difrerent sized spacebars).

How did everyone acquire/make their wire?

Will post pictures later of stuff probably after I've completed my keyboard.

[Vimto]

The space bar wire came with mine.

[Numpy]

The space bar wire came with mine.

I'll have to PM LeandreN unless someone has a good idea of how to get one.

[Jumie]

Just one question, sorry if it's dumb: Wouldn't it be easier to just remove the RGB leds?

It was an option I considered. I don't have a need for backlighting so much, but I wanted to keep the board and its components intact in the event that the build didn't satisfy me and I had to sell it off. This is my first build and I didn't want to run LEDs on the top either, since it would only make desoldering that much worse. The compromise: I'm using Gateron housings (Zealios specifically) and the backlighting peeks through a bit when I'm feeling "saucy" enough to switch it on.

Unrelated to the case issue... is anyone else here that used Zealios in their build struggling with key chatter/bouncing? My board is plagued with false clicks and I'm hesitant to just keep putting new Zealios in there to replace the suspected bads. I'm also disappointed that there's no  configurable debounce settings in the firmware (that I know of). I've tried a couple fixes I've found mentioned on GH, but nothing has cured the issues at this point.

I soldered all my Zealios in last night. I tested all the switches briefly without keycaps installed and did not notice any chattering issues. Hope you'll be able to resolve all your chattering issues.

I have soldered, desoldered, and resoldered my zealio twice. 50% of the switches were not registered on switch hitter. While I almost certain I did the solder properly, i don't know if my zealio switch is broken or not.

[LeandreN]

The space bar wire came with mine.

I'll have to PM LeandreN unless someone has a good idea of how to get one.

Hey, can you mail leandre.north@gmail.com ? I can get it out tomorrow. Im drowning in Geekhack PMs

[Numpy]

The space bar wire came with mine.

I'll have to PM LeandreN unless someone has a good idea of how to get one.

Hey, can you mail leandre.north@gmail.com ? I can get it out tomorrow. Im drowning in Geekhack PMs

Ahh, sorry to hear.
I've sent an email.

[crashkaboom]

I soldered all my Zealios in last night. I tested all the switches briefly without keycaps installed and did not notice any chattering issues. Hope you'll be able to resolve all your chattering issues.

On a sidenote, did you lube yours? I'm starting to wonder if this is a case of piss-poor lubing technique on my part.

[eksuen]

I soldered all my Zealios in last night. I tested all the switches briefly without keycaps installed and did not notice any chattering issues. Hope you'll be able to resolve all your chattering issues.

On a sidenote, did you lube yours? I'm starting to wonder if this is a case of piss-poor lubing technique on my part.

No, I did not lube mine. I used them "as is" straight out of the bag Zeal sent them in.

[LeandreN]

Keep in mind that it is super easy to mess up switches by lubing them. I have done that before.

[soilheart]

Just realized I never posted a picture of my final build (sorry for a little potato quality, but it should still give a good hint of how it looks).


Ziptyze Case
Tier-3 PCB
Silver Alu Plate
67g tactile Zealios (love the feel)
Vortex(?) ISO PBT Blanks (from leandren =) ).

[bloodl1n3]

I finally got around to soldering my keyboard together, but am having some trouble

I plugged in the keyboard and did the key combination to turn the LEDs on and 4 of them aren't turning on. If it matters, I'm on a mac and I haven't flashed the firmware or anything on the board.

Any ideas what could be wrong?

[f1xedgear]

I finally got around to soldering my keyboard together, but am having some trouble

I plugged in the keyboard and did the key combination to turn the LEDs on and 4 of them aren't turning on. If it matters, I'm on a mac and I haven't flashed the firmware or anything on the board.

Any ideas what could be wrong?

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You forgot to tell it that there are 16 LEDs on the board. It only uses 12 by default unless you update the settings with the BootMapperClient app

[Badwrench]

Quick question to anyone with a B. Face X2.  I am trying to get the key mounted leds working on the esc, tab, and caps lock keys.  They have the option to have an indicator led, but I just want them lit up like the rest of the board.  How does everyone here have theirs set up?  After going through the soldering instructions on the winkeyless sight, I am assuming that the 330 ohm resistors need to be replaced with the resistors I am using for the rest of the board (8200 for pink leds), and put in the upper position to pull power from the main. 

Any help would be appreciated.  This is how I currently have it, and there is no power to the leds.  And yes, I am aware that the second pad of the resistor is not soldered.  I want to make sure I have it in the correct spot before I do it, since I don't have a hot air station to change it. 

[f1xedgear]

Quick question to anyone with a B. Face X2.  I am trying to get the key mounted leds working on the esc, tab, and caps lock keys.  They have the option to have an indicator led, but I just want them lit up like the rest of the board.  How does everyone here have theirs set up?  After going through the soldering instructions on the winkeyless sight, I am assuming that the 330 ohm resistors need to be replaced with the resistors I am using for the rest of the board (8200 for pink leds), and put in the upper position to pull power from the main. 

Any help would be appreciated.  This is how I currently have it, and there is no power to the leds.  And yes, I am aware that the second pad of the resistor is not soldered.  I want to make sure I have it in the correct spot before I do it, since I don't have a hot air station to change it. 

Read the Soldering Guide, specifically the section called "Resistors to make Scroll Lock and Num Lock LED as Full LED". You do not need a hot air rework station to do these. They can be easily changed with just a soldering pencil.

[Badwrench]

Quick question to anyone with a B. Face X2.  I am trying to get the key mounted leds working on the esc, tab, and caps lock keys.  They have the option to have an indicator led, but I just want them lit up like the rest of the board.  How does everyone here have theirs set up?  After going through the soldering instructions on the winkeyless sight, I am assuming that the 330 ohm resistors need to be replaced with the resistors I am using for the rest of the board (8200 for pink leds), and put in the upper position to pull power from the main. 

Any help would be appreciated.  This is how I currently have it, and there is no power to the leds.  And yes, I am aware that the second pad of the resistor is not soldered.  I want to make sure I have it in the correct spot before I do it, since I don't have a hot air station to change it. 

Read the Soldering Guide, specifically the section called "Resistors to make Scroll Lock and Num Lock LED as Full LED". You do not need a hot air rework station to do these. They can be easily changed with just a soldering pencil.

Ok, I got it working.  Just took another re-read of the section to make sure.  Thanks. 

[Atredl]

Sorry to revive this thread but I'm finally getting around to building my board. Between getting the parts and now I fell in love with the WKL layout but I only have a 6.25u wire from the GB. I found some on Gonskeyboardworks.com but shipping is rightfully SUPER expensive.

Is there any place I can get two 7u spacebar wires where shipping won't cost me an arm and a leg?

Thanks 

[TalkingTree]

Is there any place I can get two 7u spacebar wires?

You can bend your own wire with pliers. Just buy a roll of harmonic steel wire as thick as the 6.25.

[Atredl]

Is there any place I can get two 7u spacebar wires?

You can bend your own wire with pliers. Just buy a roll of harmonic steel wire as thick as the 6.25.

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll do that.

[toidbb]

Is there any place I can get two 7u spacebar wires?

You can bend your own wire with pliers. Just buy a roll of harmonic steel wire as thick as the 6.25.

Where can I source harmonic wire from?

Thanks in advance, as a quick google check seemed to return only Italian sources.

[TalkingTree]

Where can I source harmonic wire from?

Any hardware store. It should work even if it's not harmonic.

[Numpy]

Where can I source harmonic wire from?

Any hardware store. It should work even if it's not harmonic.

Enharmonic? 

[Atredl]

Better late than never...