geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: Matt3o on Fri, 12 April 2013, 06:57:12
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Here I present you with my precious! Industrial looking, stainless steel, 65% layout waiting for the DSA Retro keys of course! Now to the soldering (a looong way to go)
Weight 1kg / 2.2 pounds
(http://i.imgur.com/narQVW4.jpg)
Side by side with a Filco TKL
(http://i.imgur.com/vaagoq3.jpg)
3 layers + plate. 13mm total height (1.5 + 5 + 5 + 1.5):
(http://i.imgur.com/AYTfyLO.jpg)
MX Blues ready! But I'm going to change the spacebar one with an MX Green and the arrows with MX brown or grey... will see.
(http://i.imgur.com/jjPYSUC.jpg)
Test with keycaps
(http://i.imgur.com/zOzWodE.jpg)
It turned out really well, I'm totally in love with it... and it didn't cost that much (approx $60, the 5mm layers are costy but the plate itself is pretty inexpensive)
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That's awesome. Now get those keys! :p
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Yes. it truly is a beauty. :'(
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The jelly, I has them ;)
Seriously, that looks amazing and I cant wait to see it with your caps/ all built up :D
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Wait, wait wait. Where's the stabilizers?
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Wait, wait wait. Where's the stabilizers?
I thought the same thing, but I think he only needs one for the spacebar.
Cannot wait to see this thing with retro, any plans to plate the steel? like gold or bronze?
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Wait, wait wait. Where's the stabilizers?
what stabilizers?! All keys are <1.75 :P except for the spacebar of course :)
Cannot wait to see this thing with retro, any plans to plate the steel? like gold or bronze?
I'm looking for a very industrial look... but maybe bronze... mmmh
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It's looks really good, Matt3o. Congratulations.
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That's one nice case! CAN I HAS!!!!!!!
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Wait, wait wait. Where's the stabilizers?
what stabilizers?! All keys are <1.75 :P except for the spacebar of course :)
The spacebar stabilizers. It obviously isn't plate mount and the holes aren't big enough to fit the PCB mount through...
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Wait, wait wait. Where's the stabilizers?
what stabilizers?! All keys are <1.75 :P except for the spacebar of course :)
The spacebar stabilizers. It obviously isn't plate mount and the holes aren't big enough to fit the PCB mount through...
Costar :)
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Costar :)
FTW!
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The 5mm plates were also laser cut? Those inside edges look really clean, I can even see the semi reflection. I wish the US had 1.5mm thick sheets available. The closest we have here is 16gauge.
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Was the price of 2x 5mm plates the same, cheaper, or more expensive than 5x 2mm plates? :)
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The 5mm plates were also laser cut? Those inside edges look really clean, I can even see the semi reflection. I wish the US had 1.5mm thick sheets available. The closest we have here is 16gauge.
yes, they are all laser cut and pretty good quality. I can have them cut at 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5 ... up to 10mm I guess.
Also I chose the no finish sheet, just a bare SS, but there are many options (satin, mirror-gloss, ...)
Was the price of 2x 5mm plates the same, cheaper, or more expensive than 5x 2mm plates? :)
probably it's going to cost more because you use more man-power and more machine-time
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nice case matt3o!!!! it looks like it meant "business" :p :p
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Awesome case!
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oh yea, i just realized one thing....
is this what the koreans called "vicki" style case? the switches are "naked" ;D
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oh yea, i just realized one thing....
is this what the koreans called "vicki" style case? the switches are "naked" ;D
vicki style, eh? Never heard that. I like (http://i.imgur.com/tOfTLFk.jpg) it though, very geek chic.
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oh yea, i just realized one thing....
is this what the koreans called "vicki" style case? the switches are "naked" ;D
vicki style, eh? Never heard that. I like (http://i.imgur.com/tOfTLFk.jpg) it though, very geek chic.
well, to be honest, initially i also didnt know what "Vicki" meant, though i often saw the word in KBD
then, when zenuty showed his two-some case (in the media section), which had a similar appearance on the top...
the switches are exposed, or say, naked :p :p "Vicki style" is what he used to describe them :D
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yes the switches are naked, so geeky for a full metal case :) It would be perfect with SA family keycaps, but it should be fine with DSA too.
at OTD they did this a while back
(http://i.imgur.com/KOy0jwY.jpg)
never heard of "vicki", but in the picture metalliqaz linked the keyboard is naked on the sides (mine is not)
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Man that looks hot. I was always intrigued by the corsair keyboards for leaving the switches exposed like that. Didn't really want to buy one of those though, but I would really love to have a case like that. Great work Matt3o!
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there you go
(http://i.imgur.com/TdpK9lh.jpg)
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That is a thing of beauty. :)
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Awesome keys!!!
Congrats!!!
I would paint the case to black or brown ...
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What insides are you using? what pcb?
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What insides are you using? what pcb?
everything's custom (teensy based). I'm working on it this weekend. I'll post pictures.
As a side note, the sound and feel of the keys is really great. The full steel body gives this beauty such a steadiness that all you hear is the switch sound. It makes a Filco feel cheap.
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So it's not functional yet?
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So it's not functional yet?
lots of soldering awaits me today :)
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Are you using lowpoly's method, or did you have a PCB made?
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lowpoly (soldering right now)
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This is a beautiful board. Super impressed Matt3o. Nice job.
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Matt30, that board is gorgegous. Makes me regret not getting in on the Retro buy but it's all good. These pics will whet my appetite :D
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Jesus that's nice. The DIY stuff is definitely tempting me back to the land of Cherry.
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Wow! Seriously impressed at the level of custom DIY-ness. Those retro caps are awesome too.
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Nice job. Those keys suit it perfectly, a little jealous. :D
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thank you guys... it has been a looong way. Today I'll post more pictures of the (hopefully) working prototype
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I'm looking forward to this. Please include information about controller programming too.
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It looks f***ing sick, cant stop drooling. did you design and draw the plate and layers yourself?
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It looks f***ing sick, cant stop drooling. did you design and draw the plate and layers yourself?
yes indeed!
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Awesome! :)
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Superb. I really like this style of board. I think it should become a 'thing'.
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yesterday was big soldering day
(http://i.imgur.com/dyVinIl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/UTkW0eu.jpg)
unfortunately due to space constraints I couldn't find a pretty way to put wires... but it works. Now to the software.
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You are such a pro! Nice job. Really like it :]
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That is just beautiful!
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Geeeeeeeeeeeeee, so many wires!
Awesome work man!
I'm kinda paranoiac with exposed wires and short circuits though ...
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Geeeeeeeeeeeeee, so many wires!
Awesome work man!
I'm kinda paranoiac with exposed wires and short circuits though ...
you took too much time to design the PCB :) I had to be creative :P
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Ahh... you wasn't desoldering the usb port on the teensy ;D
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Ahh... you wasn't desoldering the usb port on the teensy ;D
I tried, and fried a teensy
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I think you forgot to add wire for full backlit! :p
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Geeeeeeeeeeeeee, so many wires!
Awesome work man!
I'm kinda paranoiac with exposed wires and short circuits though ...
you took too much time to design the PCB :) I had to be creative :P
Easy, I think I'll finish it up to this sunday ...
And sorry for your lost (the teensy)
:)
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FINISHED! And 100% working!
(http://i.imgur.com/iEx1cSE.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/OFgCheo.jpg)
My gratitude goes to Hasu and his exceptional work with the keyboard firmwares!
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I honestly would rather buy this than most standardized keyboard. It's looking really good, just change the phillips screws ;)
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I honestly would rather buy this than most standardized keyboard. It's looking really good, just change the phillips screws ;)
I've been considering using something like these for a keyboard project:
[attachimg=1]
Bought some custom cap-head stainless steel screws for a motorcycle restoration project, those were neat but the tops were too tall.
Edit: Source is http://www.trfastenings.com/pages/Metric+Socket+Countersunk+Head+Screws
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I tried many screws but at the end the phillips are those that give me the most perestroika feeling :)
The ones suggested by broadmonkey are a bit problematic on my case because I don't have enough clearance to completely inset them into the case top (which is also the plate).
also consider it's 100% stainless steel... a hell to work with (I broke 3 threading bits)
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I tried many screws but at the end the phillips are those that give me the most perestroika feeling :)
The ones suggested by broadmonkey are a bit problematic on my case because I don't have enough clearance to completely inset them into the case top (which is also the plate).
also consider it's 100% stainless steel... a hell to work with (I broke 3 threading bits)
Threading bits? Y U NO USE NUTS?? :P
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Threading bits? Y U NO USE NUTS?? :P
yes, next time I'll use nuts for sure!
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Congrats! Great job. It looks lovely.
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I was thinking more about something like this
(http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/Images/Main_Images/BZP-10.9_ScrewBolt_SHBtn_M.jpg)
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You could use something like this...
[attachimg=1]
It has a thread inside to insert a screw from the back
- No thread tapping, just drilling
- Flat and minimalistic at the faceplate
- Screw head hidden on the underside
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There are a variety of fastening options, some more difficult to source than others. I have a lot of respect for anyone tackling a project like this, I'm just hoping I can borrow (copy shamelessly) some of the ideas when I finally muster up the nerve to start a similar project!
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You could use something like this...
(Attachment Link)
It has a thread inside to insert a screw from the back
- No thread tapping, just drilling
- Flat and minimalistic at the faceplate
- Screw head hidden on the underside
this is a nice idea! I'll use these for my next project (alps 60%)
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For those wiling to build one keyboard like this one posted by Matt3o here comes my 5 cents:
Complete PCB:
https://github.com/agodinhost/KiCad/tree/master/Matt3o
The same PCB with a Teensy board attached:
https://github.com/agodinhost/KiCad/tree/master/Matt3o-Teensy2
There is no USB connector in these boards - only the 2.54mm header to connect and plug the USB wherever you like.
Right now Matt3o Matt3o is trying to find a way to attach the USB connector into his case. Any idea is welcome ...
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Thanks agodinhost for working and posting this! You did and exceptional work.
I don't think there's enough interest for the SMD version but the teensy is tempting if we find a way to fit the usb cable.
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Thanks agodinhost for working and posting this! You did and exceptional work.
I don't think there's enough interest for the SMD version but the teensy is tempting if we find a way to fit the usb cable.
Okay, let me know.
It would be sad to trash it away so soon ...
I'm working on a 60% board based on this same idea (Cherry and Alps into the same board). Any interest, please, note me or open one new topic.
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I know somewhere I saw a link to the wiki page you created based on your work with hard wiring but I can not seem to find it now?
I want to create a alps gh60 hard wired but I am basically stuck planning and understanding the wiring matrices and how this all ties to the teensy controller.
would someone mind giving a brief explanation of how the wiring connects together?
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I know somewhere I saw a link to the wiki page you created based on your work with hard wiring but I can not seem to find it now?
I want to create a alps gh60 hard wired but I am basically stuck planning and understanding the wiring matrices and how this all ties to the teensy controller.
would someone mind giving a brief explanation of how the wiring connects together?
Check this out: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=20898.0
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I think I'll soon start a "group build" (not "buy") for a 60% alps keyboard (hard wire+teensy) code named whitefox :) stay tuned.
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I know somewhere I saw a link to the wiki page you created based on your work with hard wiring but I can not seem to find it now?
I want to create a alps gh60 hard wired but I am basically stuck planning and understanding the wiring matrices and how this all ties to the teensy controller.
would someone mind giving a brief explanation of how the wiring connects together?
Check this out: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=20898.0
I have looked at that thread and this one a lot in the last few weeks.
(http://www.lowpoly.com/keyboard/m0110/m0110_130.jpg)
the switches I am harvesting are yellow omron alps and are all mounted upside down in the existing board.
which side +/- do the diodes attach to and how do I tell which side is positive and which is negative?
once I get the board to a point when I have it laid out like lowpoly does how do I determine which wires connect to which pins on the teensy to be compatible with the default gh60 poker layout firmware?
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I think I'll soon start a "group build" (not "buy") for a 60% alps keyboard (hard wire+teensy) code named whitefox :) stay tuned.
Awesome job on the MX one. Very interested to see how the "whitefox" goes.
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I think I'll soon start a "group build" (not "buy") for a 60% alps keyboard (hard wire+teensy) code named whitefox :) stay tuned.
Thanks! I look forward to seeing your progress. I am getting married in a little over 2 weeks and I have to pay for the gh60 GB so it may be some time before I can get started.
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I think I'll soon start a "group build" (not "buy") for a 60% alps keyboard (hard wire+teensy) code named whitefox :) stay tuned.
Seems that the PCB I designed for you is going to be trashed away ...
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hope not. these things just take some time. don't be negative!
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hope not. these things just take some time. don't be negative!
Sorry, 8-)
Anyway I'm using that same board as base to create another PCB for one 60% keyboard design (same idea, cherry and alps into the same board).
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If you have a PCB use it for goodness sake! The one and only reason to direct wire is to avoid having to fab a board
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If you have a PCB use it for goodness sake! The one and only reason to direct wire is to avoid having to fab a board
I am doing it to get good at soldering again because I haven't done it in 10 years.
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You could use something like this...
(Attachment Link)
It has a thread inside to insert a screw from the back
- No thread tapping, just drilling
- Flat and minimalistic at the faceplate
- Screw head hidden on the underside
Any idea what the official name for this part is in English? If I translate it I get bolt bus assuming that the name I have for it is even correct, but that just gives me an actual bus as result :D I'm prototyping my own Dell AT102W case and this could come in handy to replace the nut I have at the bottom :)
*Found it! In English it's called a blind nut. The only downside is that the outside diameter is ~5mm so those are some big holes ^^
You can have them very short: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8227__blind_nut_m3_10pcs_.html
Or longer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/25PC-M3-METRIC-NUT-RIVET-BLIND-NUTS-INSERTS-ALUMINUM-/280707253169
Btw, hobbyking has really cool screws, bolts and nuts in nylon and different colors of metal.
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nice :p
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(http://i.imgur.com/dyVinIl.jpg)
Whether it is inside the copper (black cable)?
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You could use something like this...
(Attachment Link)
It has a thread inside to insert a screw from the back
- No thread tapping, just drilling
- Flat and minimalistic at the faceplate
- Screw head hidden on the underside
Any idea what the official name for this part is in English? If I translate it I get bolt bus assuming that the name I have for it is even correct, but that just gives me an actual bus as result :D I'm prototyping my own Dell AT102W case and this could come in handy to replace the nut I have at the bottom :)
*Found it! In English it's called a blind nut. The only downside is that the outside diameter is ~5mm so those are some big holes ^^
You can have them very short: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8227__blind_nut_m3_10pcs_.html
Or longer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/25PC-M3-METRIC-NUT-RIVET-BLIND-NUTS-INSERTS-ALUMINUM-/280707253169
Btw, hobbyking has really cool screws, bolts and nuts in nylon and different colors of metal.
in the second link they are just rivet inserts, they are not threaded.
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in the second link they are just rivet inserts, they are not threaded.
Ah good that you noticed :) Gotta be more thorough next search ^^
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in the second link they are just rivet inserts, they are not threaded.
Not true, they are rivet style nut inserts w/ M3 threads. The are attached just like rivets with a special rivet nut insert tool that squashes them down, but there are some threads in there.
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in the second link they are just rivet inserts, they are not threaded.
Not true, they are rivet style nut inserts w/ M3 threads. The are attached just like rivets with a special rivet nut insert tool that squashes them down, but there are some threads in there.
you sure they are threaded? I can't see threads from the pics.
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"minimum 6 turns" so very few of them, and they don't show the end where they are, they show the end that gets squished. ed: ok they do show them, but the fidelity is absolute crap.
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Wasn't thinking of blind-rivet-nuts as these usually don't have a "head" and are meant to expand...
What I meant is "Innengewindehülse mit Linsenkopf/Flachkopf" which translates to "Inside threaded bushing/bolt with pan-head/flat-head":
[attachimg=1]
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where the hell do you get those?! :D
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where the hell do you get those?! :D
I've been looking at getting something like that for my build but I'm a little bit worried that if overtightened you'd never get the screw out again.
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Kailet, who made my 2TU, had used clear polycarb for the center of his "vicki" style case, and it's had some great aesthetic applications like case LEDs.
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/13574727/2TU/DSC04442.jpg)
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where the hell do you get those?! :D
They look similar to the blind fasteners I ordered from McMaster-Carr:
[attachimg=1]
Nice domed surface on the blank side, though! I don't have pics of the ones I ordered, they're still on the way.
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any recomen controller besides TEENSY 2.0 beacuse in my country no one sells TEENSY :confused: if buy at pjrc will be time consuming and expensive that shipping :(
but i see on my country any seller Arduino Fio ATmega328P Microcontroller what recomended? qute big >:D
or other suggestions
This shop
Which good controller
http://kam-kits.blogspot.com/search/label/Arduino%20Mikrokontrollerhttp://kedairobot.com/
http://kedairobot.com/
Thanks :thumb:
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Just ebay search atmega32u4 and pick something that works for you.
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Just ebay search atmega32u4 and pick something that works for you.
shipping to my country sure expensive and time consuming :-\
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any recomen controller besides TEENSY 2.0 beacuse in my country no one sells TEENSY :confused: if buy at pjrc will be time consuming and expensive that shipping :(
but i see on my country any seller Arduino Fio ATmega328P Microcontroller what recomended? qute big >:D
or other suggestions
This shop
Which good
http://kam-kits.blogspot.com/search/label/Arduino%20Mikrokontroller
Thanks :thumb:
Avoid the Arduino micro-controllers, the bootloader is incompatible with a lot of the firmware's people are using. You can get around it by reloading another bootloader but you need an ISP box and that's just more money down the tube. I'm using a board from MattairTech (http://www.mattairtech.com/index.php/development-boards/atmega32u4-usb-development-board-arduino-compatible.html) with the same AVR chip, fair bit larger than the Teensy but it also has a lot more pinout's for things like external USB connectors. Very configurable as well, they will load it with whichever bootloader you request and will add headers if requested too.
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I use a teensy as an ISP, typically cheaper than an actual ISP. Any other similar MCU board can do the same. http://dorkbotpdx.org/wiki/teensy_2_0_as_avr_isp_programmer
yasuo: We don't know what country you're in if you don't tell us... we also can't fix the realities of prices/shipping.
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where the hell do you get those?! :D
Here: http://www.jakob.ch/1279/metagroup=G39192
Smallest is 6mm head diameter, 4mm barrel diameter, 6.5mm barrel length, that takes a 3m bolt.
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Really superb looking keyboard.
With a full stainless steel body, could this be the Delorean of keyboards? What happens when it hits 88 wpm?
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Really superb looking keyboard.
With a full stainless steel body, could this be the Delorean of keyboards? What happens when it hits 88 wpm?
LOL... dunno... let me try... LOL... dunno... let me try... LOL dunno... let me try...
GREAT SCOTT! It works!
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hope not. these things just take some time. don't be negative!
Sorry, 8-)
Anyway I'm using that same board as base to create another PCB for one 60% keyboard design (same idea, cherry and alps into the same board).
I'd love to see that, in this "65%" design
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hope not. these things just take some time. don't be negative!
Sorry, 8-)
Anyway I'm using that same board as base to create another PCB for one 60% keyboard design (same idea, cherry and alps into the same board).
I'd love to see that, in this "65%" design
I gotta say Matt3o, that is one sexy beast. What can I say though I am a sucker for raw stainless.