Ducky Shine 2 - Mod

[infiniti]

Current Picture






Current Mods

• MX-Compatible transparent switch top covers from abostudio
• silver switch stickers
• 3 x blue stems and 3 x clear springs for Caps Lock, Scroll Lock, and Num Lock
• 1 x clear stem and 1 x clear spring for Space Bar
• lubed the switches, springs, and stabilizers with Krytox lube kit from mkawa and the GEEKHACKERS.ORG TEMPORARY STORE
• red LEDs for Caps Lock, Scroll Lock, and Num Lock
• stock plate painted with Rust-oleum Titanium Silver
• top case painted/dipped with True Metallics Plasti Dip Aluminum Silver
• applied 0.8mm rubber tape to the underside of the plate and the inside of the bottom housing for sound dampening
• geekhack sticker

More  pictures in Reply #1
________


Original Post -- 13 October 2013

I've decided to mod my Ducky Shine 2.  This will follow my (re)build now that I have all the parts (i.e. lube and stickers) I need to complete it.

This was originally supposed to have a custom plate but I've scrapped that in favor of putting the money into a Korean custom in the future...or my son's college fund

This is what it looked like before I took it apart:


Here is it in pieces:


1 - Black and gray Ducky Shine keycaps
2 - Silver switch stickers -- I figured this would better diffuse and reflect the light from LED more for the transparent switch top covers
3 - MX-Compatible transparent switch top covers from abostudio
4 - 3 x blue stems (for Caps Lock, Scroll Lock, and Num Lock), 1 x clear stem (for Space Bar), and 4 clear springs
5 - Brown switch stems
6 - Stock switch bottoms
7 - Shine 2 Bottom Case
8 - Shine 2 Stock Plate
9 - Shine 2 Top Case -- this was later painted/dipped with True Metallics Plasti Dip Aluminum Silver
10 - Krytox lube kit from mkawa and the GEEKHACKERS.ORG TEMPORARY STORE
11 - Cherry stabilizers
12 - LEDs
13 - springs from the brown switches

So far, I've stickered and lubed all the switches with Bob the CC 3D photobombing:


I'm now debating if I will paint the plate and top case before proceeding.  Hmm...

Edit: Reuploaded images. RIP Dropbox Public Folder.

[infiniti]

PICTURES!!!

"Before" Pictures

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Ducky Shine II, Cherry Brown MX, White LEDs, and a set of gray keycaps

Switches and LEDs soldered

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The LEDs on the End and Page Down switches aren't lit since I forgot to solder the negative pins ) Fixed it before taking the other pictures:
Brightness - Level 1:


Brightness - Level 2:


Brightness - Level 3:


Brightness - Level 4:


Brightness - Level 5:

With keycaps, closeup

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Brightness - Level 1:


Brightness - Level 2:


Brightness - Level 3:


Brightness - Level 4:


Brightness - Level 5:

With keycaps, closeup

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Brightness - Level 1:


Brightness - Level 2:


Brightness - Level 3:


Brightness - Level 4:


Brightness - Level 5:

In The Dark

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Brightness Levels 1 to 5:


Brightness - Level 1:


Brightness - Level 2:


Brightness - Level 3:


Brightness - Level 4:


Brightness - Level 5:

The Case Painted/Dipped with True Metallics Plasti Dip Aluminum Silver

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Brightness Levels 1 to 5:

Brightness - Level 1:


Brightness - Level 2:


Brightness - Level 3:


Brightness - Level 4:


Brightness - Level 5:

[rowdy]

Sorry son, you can't go to college, but if you're good I'll let you use my custom keyboard

[Photoelectric]

At least you've got your priorities straight  )

Bob has a pretty exciting life.  Makes me want a novelty cap companion for some photobombing as well.

[infiniti]

Going to see if I can have the plate sand blasted to save time on sanding.  I'm probably going to go with a metallic silver for the plate.
________

Sorry son, you can't go to college, but if you're good I'll let you use my custom keyboard

Son: "Daddy, can I have my own custom keyboard?"
Me: "That's my boy!  But better ask you mom."
)
________

At least you've got your priorities straight  )

Bob has a pretty exciting life.  Makes me want a novelty cap companion for some photobombing as well.

With hobby comes responsibility! Hahaha

You need your own Bob with a custom paint job like a mascot!

[infiniti]

Update: I had the plate sandblasted today!






I really like the raw metal look but I have to prime and paint it to keep rust/corrosion in check.

Probably going to go with a metallic silver.

Edit: Reuploaded the picture(s).

[infiniti]

Thanks to Photoelectric for the painting tips

Painted the plate with Rust-oleum Titanium Silver:






The soldering begins tomorrow morning...108 switches and 108 LEDS...Hakko 936 don't fail me now!

Edit: Reuploaded the picture(s).

[Oobly]

It looks really good! Great choice of parts, looking forward to how this turns out!

[Photoelectric]

Beautiful!  Definitely proud    Now just make sure to not use alcohol when cleaning the plate in the future.

[infiniti]

Added some 0.8mm rubber tape to the underside of the plate and the inside of the bottom housing for sound dampening:







And now off to soldering...
________

It looks really good! Great choice of parts, looking forward to how this turns out!

Thanks!  All I need now is to design some housing that will be compatible with the stock plate.
________

Beautiful!  Definitely proud    Now just make sure to not use alcohol when cleaning the plate in the future.

Thanks!  Actually I used alcohol to clean the plate before painting...AND in between paint layers... oops

Edit: Reuploaded the picture(s).

[Photoelectric]

Before painting and between layers is okay . I meant now that its finished, don't clean it with alcohol--it will dull the finish.

Great idea with the tape under the plate--I'll try that too once I figure out where to get it

[infiniti]

Before painting and between layers is okay . I meant now that its finished, don't clean it with alcohol--it will dull the finish.

Great idea with the tape under the plate--I'll try that too once I figure out where to get it

I used something similar to this only a different brand and not as thick (the hardware store only had the 0.8mm thick tape): http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Rubber-Electrical-10-Foot-065-Inch/dp/B001B1AP3O/

When I tap on the plate with my finger nail it sounds It sounds more solid.  The sames goes with the bottom housing.

[infiniti]

Ok, I've soldered all the switches and tested them.  Now that I've confirmed all the switches work, it is time to solder all the LEDs.

[infiniti]

DONE!

If you look carefully, the LEDs on the End and Page Down switches aren't lit in the first picture since I forgot to solder the negative pins ) Fixed it before taking the other pictures:








Bonus GIFs of the 5 brightness levels:







Edit: Reuploaded the picture(s).

[AGmurdercore]

The board is looking sooooooo nice man, great job! I wish mine keyboard looked like this hahaha

[SpAmRaY]

Very nice pics and awesome job!! From a fellow shine 2 owner.

[BakaPhoenix]

Looks really goood 

The clear top of the switches is really nice, too bad you can see them since are hidden from the keycaps XD

[infiniti]

More pictures in Reply #1

Now the top cover looks boring...hmm...
________

The board is looking sooooooo nice man, great job! I wish mine keyboard looked like this hahaha

Thanks!  With time and hard work, you too can mod your own keyboard!  But seriously...desoldering the switches and LEDs takes A LOT more time than soldering them back hehe
________

Very nice pics and awesome job!! From a fellow shine 2 owner.

Thanks Ray!  Not a pro but I try my best to get the right shots. )
________

Looks really goood 

The clear top of the switches is really nice, too bad you can see them since are hidden from the keycaps XD

Thanks BakaPhoenix!  Good idea!  I think I'll order a full set of clear keycaps from Signature Plastics in November while they have that shipping promo.  If it doesn't look good on the Shine 2 then I'll put in on my QFR at work...that'll ensure no one ever borrows my keyboard again haha!

[Dreamre]

Can you take a picture of the keyboard in the dark? I want to see how much light the silver plate reflects. Looks pretty awesome!

[Photoelectric]

Now what are you going to do with the top, if anything?

[Dreamre]

Now what are you going to do with the top, if anything?

You're temping him!!!

[Photoelectric]

I think it's good as is, because the plate and LEDs are already flashy enough.  More like I'm curious if there are further plans . The paintaholic and modaholic in me wants more!

[infiniti]

Can you take a picture of the keyboard in the dark? I want to see how much light the silver plate reflects. Looks pretty awesome!

No problem...I'll do that later and post pictures.
________

Now what are you going to do with the top, if anything?

You're temping him!!!

________
It's a welcome temptation! )

I think it's good as is, because the plate and LEDs are already flashy enough.  More like I'm curious if there are further plans . The paintaholic and modaholic in me wants more!

Haha...I have to admit that when I reassembled everything I was a bit disappointed that it still looked the same...a plain jane lookin' Shine 2 hiding all its internal mods.

As for painting the top case, I want to but I'm afraid that spray paint would just rub off at the corners over time.

One option is to have it painted with automotive paint.

Another option I am considering is a cerakote gun finish but I still need to find out if the plastic will survive the oven curing process needed for the oven cure series.  If not I'll see if the cerakote air-dry series is just as durable.  I need to talk to my gun nut friend.

[infiniti]

Can you take a picture of the keyboard in the dark? I want to see how much light the silver plate reflects. Looks pretty awesome!

No problem...I'll do that later and post pictures.

As requested.

In The Dark
Brightness Levels 1 to 5:



Note: The individual pictures are in Reply #1

Edit: Reuploaded the picture(s).

[Photoelectric]

I don't think the plastic will survive an oven heating session.  For automotive urethane paints, Id strongly recommend that you have a professional do those, unless you want to invest in a lot of protective equipment, like a chemical filtering mask, full body suit, good ventilation.  This is why I stick with oil enamels.

[infiniti]

I don't think the plastic will survive an oven heating session.  For automotive urethane paints, Id strongly recommend that you have a professional do those, unless you want to invest in a lot of protective equipment, like a chemical filtering mask, full body suit, good ventilation.  This is why I stick with oil enamels.

Just went over the cerakote documentation and it just might work.  The cure table lists plastics and polymers for 2 hours at 150-180 deg F and ABS melts at 221 deg F.  BUT I need to get a professional opinion from the gun smith that does the application...and see what color options are available.

However if I go with automotive paint, I'll have a larger selection of colors.  Oh and I'll have that done by a professional...I need it done right the first time.  It's not like I can pick-up a spare as easily as a QFR case.

[Photoelectric]

Melting temperature may not be reached, but it might still get warped / deformed / shrunk, etc.  I've tried near-boiling (but not quite) plastic that I thought would be safe, which was a dumb idea (unrelated to keyboards)--nothing melted, but there was a serious amount of shrinking and deformation.

[infiniti]

OK. Automotive paint it is! )

[Dreamre]

Can you take a picture of the keyboard in the dark? I want to see how much light the silver plate reflects. Looks pretty awesome!

No problem...I'll do that later and post pictures.

As requested.

In The Dark
Brightness Levels 1 to 5:

Show Image

Note: The individual pictures are in Reply #1

Woah, that looks amazing! The silver plate relfects some light too. Awesome! Thanks for taking the picture :).

[infiniti]

Can you take a picture of the keyboard in the dark? I want to see how much light the silver plate reflects. Looks pretty awesome!

No problem...I'll do that later and post pictures.

As requested.

In The Dark
Brightness Levels 1 to 5:

Show Image

Note: The individual pictures are in Reply #1

Woah, that looks amazing! The silver plate relfects some light too. Awesome! Thanks for taking the picture :).

Yup, It does reflect nicely!  You're welcome!  I always enjoy taking pictures. :thumb:

[Forsythe]

That looks beautiful. Are you going to paint the casing as well?  Was that how the original lighting brightness was?

[infiniti]

That looks beautiful. Are you going to paint the casing as well?  Was that how the original lighting brightness was?

Thanks! Yes, I will paint the case.  I was going to try some True Metallics Plasti Dip (Anthracite Grey and Aluminum Silver) but the supplier is closed on account of the super typhoon here.  I'll probably get the plasti dip next week.

Regarding the original lighting...I sadly do not have pictures of when it was stock. I have noticed that it is not as bright as before the mod since the illumination is more diffused as a result of the transparent switch top cover.  The brightness used to be set to level 2 before the mod but now I keep in on level 3.

Before the mod, the legends on the lower part of the keys were darker compared to the legends on the top of the same key since the LED is on the top part of the switch this just means that the "!" was brighter than the "1" on the same key.  After the mod, the lighting is a bit more even but I can't really say for sure.

[justnits]

for the plates, must you remove the original black paint first before spraying it with a new paint? if you didn't remove the original paint and you spray the new coat of paint over it, what would be the problem?

dun think i can afford to sandblast it, what about using sandpaper if removing the original paint is a must?

i own a ducky shine 2 too and i'm interested in painting the plate to make the LED light more reflective.

[infiniti]

for the plates, must you remove the original black paint first before spraying it with a new paint? if you didn't remove the original paint and you spray the new coat of paint over it, what would be the problem?

dun think i can afford to sandblast it, what about using sandpaper if removing the original paint is a must?

i own a ducky shine 2 too and i'm interested in painting the plate to make the LED light more reflective.

Sorry but I'm not sure about painting over the original paint/coating.  Check out Photoelectric's Keyboard Case Painting Tips.  He's the resident paintaholic so he would be in a better position to answer you.

Anyway, when I consulted with Photoelectric regarding this project, he mentioned that he sanded down the powder coating on a Filco plate and then applied adhesion promoter before painting the plate.  More info and pics in this post.

I couldn't find adhesion promoter locally so I went with Rust-oleum Universal (Paint & Primer in One) in Titanium Silver.

[Photoelectric]

for the plates, must you remove the original black paint first before spraying it with a new paint? if you didn't remove the original paint and you spray the new coat of paint over it, what would be the problem?

dun think i can afford to sandblast it, what about using sandpaper if removing the original paint is a must?

i own a ducky shine 2 too and i'm interested in painting the plate to make the LED light more reflective.

You can spray right over powder coating of you're going to use an opaque color.  Just clean / degrease Really well before painting.  Sand the surface very lightly to give it some porousness for new paint to adhere to.

[justnits]

Thank you so much for your knowledgeable input and pointers! 
Firstly, I need to do more homework and research about paints and stuff, which is what I'm doing now.
Secondly I'll need to find the time to desolder all those switches and LEDs from the board.
I haven't removed Cherry stabilizers before, are they difficult to remove?

Sorry but I'm not sure about painting over the original paint/coating.  Check out Photoelectric's Keyboard Case Painting Tips.  He's the resident paintaholic so he would be in a better position to answer you.

Anyway, when I consulted with Photoelectric regarding this project, he mentioned that he sanded down the powder coating on a Filco plate and then applied adhesion promoter before painting the plate.  More info and pics in this post.

I couldn't find adhesion promoter locally so I went with Rust-oleum Universal (Paint & Primer in One) in Titanium Silver.

You can spray right over powder coating of you're going to use an opaque color.  Just clean / degrease Really well before painting.  Sand the surface very lightly to give it some porousness for new paint to adhere to.

[infiniti]

Thank you so much for your knowledgeable input and pointers! 
Firstly, I need to do more homework and research about paints and stuff, which is what I'm doing now.
Secondly I'll need to find the time to desolder all those switches and LEDs from the board.
I haven't removed Cherry stabilizers before, are they difficult to remove?

When you do disassemble your Shine2, take some reference pictures to aide in reassembly.

The plate mount cherry stabilizers are easy to remove.

First, remove the LED and switch.

If the switch was in place, you will not be able to remove the stabilizer and the stabilizer bar.  See picture below:


Second, lift the stabilizers from the area encircled in red.  It will lift upward and then towards you.


Hope this helps.

[justnits]

definitely taking pictures before taking them out apart!
i was under the impression that in order to take out the cherry stabs, you first need to desolder EVERYTHING, am i right or am i wrong?
i hope i'm wrong!

When you do disassemble your Shine2, take some reference pictures to aide in reassembly.

The plate mount cherry stabilizers are easy to remove.

First, remove the LED and switch.

If the switch was in place, you will not be able to remove the stabilizer and the stabilizer bar.  See picture below:

Show Image

Second, lift the stabilizers from the area encircled in red.  It will lift upward and then towards you.

Show Image

Hope this helps.

[infiniti]

definitely taking pictures before taking them out apart!
i was under the impression that in order to take out the cherry stabs, you first need to desolder EVERYTHING, am i right or am i wrong?
i hope i'm wrong!

Well, the minimum you need to remove is the LED and switch and that the stabilizer is for.

[infiniti]

Finally got the Plasti Dip!



Left to right: True Metallics Plasti Dip (Anthracite Grey, True Metallics Plasti Dip  Aluminum Silver), and plain jane matte black for the car.

Going to do some painting dipping experimenting this weekend.

Edit: Reuploaded the picture(s).

[SpAmRaY]

Finally got the Plasti Dip!

Show Image

Left to right: True Metallics Plasti Dip (Anthracite Grey, True Metallics Plasti Dip  Aluminum Silver), and plain jane matte black for the car.

Going to do some painting dipping experimenting this weekend.

I was considering buying some to do a carbon fiberish paint job.

Have you seen this?

[infiniti]

Finally got the Plasti Dip!

Show Image

Left to right: True Metallics Plasti Dip (Anthracite Grey, True Metallics Plasti Dip  Aluminum Silver), and plain jane matte black for the car.

Going to do some painting dipping experimenting this weekend.

I was considering buying some to do a carbon fiberish paint job.

Have you seen this?

Nope, haven't seen that.  Thanks Ray!

Seems simple enough to do...sadly I did not pickup any glossifier...oh well keep you posted if do try it over the weekend. :thumb:

[infiniti]

Painted the case with aluminum silver Plasti Dip today:







I'm going to let it cure/harden over night and I'll fit it to the keyboard tomorrow.

Edit: Reuploaded the picture(s).

[Photoelectric]

That came out well! Though unsurprisingly, since Bob supervised.  Let us know how the texture feels when it's dry

[infiniti]

That came out well! Though unsurprisingly, since Bob supervised.  Let us know how the texture feels when it's dry

Day 1

Alright, it's been a day since I painted/dipped my Shine 2 top case with 5 coats of aluminum silver plati dip.  The surface texture feels silky but the friction of running your finger across it tells you that it's a rubber coating.

It seems to have dried enough that my fingernail doesn't leave a mark.  However, I'll wait another day or two before I try to do a scratch test with my fingernails.

I expect it to have a more dry feel once completely cured/hardened.

[infiniti]

Pictures are in!

The Case Painted/Dipped with True Metallics Plasti Dip Aluminum Silver
Brightness Levels 1 to 5:

Brightness - Level 1:


Brightness - Level 2:


Brightness - Level 3:


Brightness - Level 4:


Brightness - Level 5:


Edit: Reuploaded the picture(s).

[Photoelectric]

Perfect!

[infiniti]

Perfect!

Almost!  I tried pulling of some keys in the F row and there are small nicks where the wire keycap puller made contact with the case  It's behind the keycap so out of sight out of mind. )

I may have been too eager to install the case.  I think the plasti dip didn't dry very well.  I blame it on the 80-90% humidity here in the tropics.

[Photoelectric]

Well, I can't tell from the photos.  So to me it looks perfect!  Just right.

[justnits]

wow! very nice! you paint it over the black case? how you get the work geekhack on it?

Pictures are in!

The Case Painted/Dipped with True Metallics Plasti Dip Aluminum Silver

More

Brightness Levels 1 to 5:

Brightness - Level 1:

Show Image

Brightness - Level 2:

Show Image

Brightness - Level 3:

Show Image

Brightness - Level 4:

Show Image

Brightness - Level 5:

Show Image