Clueboard 66% PCB - Pre-soldered Underlight Available!

[yinzer]

Here's a video of the LED in action from my instagram. I still haven't quite gotten to figuring out how to make changes, but the WS2812Bs most definitely work at this point. 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/

low-quality GIF version:

Show Image

Is that JTK White/Purple? What layout are you using? I'm wanting to use that set on mine. The set didn't come with a 2nd 2.25x shift key for Right Shift so I'm not quite sure what to do with R4. The Tsangen shift that came with JTK and is used on 75% boards isn't an option as far as I can tell.

On the 2.0 PCB you can replace the 2.25 left key with a 1u and 1.25u key. No bastard shift needed.

[Wannabe]

Here's a video of the LED in action from my instagram. I still haven't quite gotten to figuring out how to make changes, but the WS2812Bs most definitely work at this point. 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/

low-quality GIF version:

Show Image

Is that JTK White/Purple? What layout are you using? I'm wanting to use that set on mine. The set didn't come with a 2nd 2.25x shift key for Right Shift so I'm not quite sure what to do with R4. The Tsangen shift that came with JTK and is used on 75% boards isn't an option as far as I can tell.

On the 2.0 PCB you can replace the 2.25 left key with a 1u and 1.25u key. No bastard shift needed.

So what key are you using for right shift? I thought the only 1.25 that came with JTK are ctrl, alt, win, and menu keys

[yinzer]

Here's a video of the LED in action from my instagram. I still haven't quite gotten to figuring out how to make changes, but the WS2812Bs most definitely work at this point. 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/

low-quality GIF version:

Show Image

Is that JTK White/Purple? What layout are you using? I'm wanting to use that set on mine. The set didn't come with a 2nd 2.25x shift key for Right Shift so I'm not quite sure what to do with R4. The Tsangen shift that came with JTK and is used on 75% boards isn't an option as far as I can tell.

On the 2.0 PCB you can replace the 2.25 left key with a 1u and 1.25u key. No bastard shift needed.

So what key are you using for right shift? I thought the only 1.25 that came with JTK are ctrl, alt, win, and menu keys

I used the menu key and the compass star.

[Wannabe]

Here's a video of the LED in action from my instagram. I still haven't quite gotten to figuring out how to make changes, but the WS2812Bs most definitely work at this point. 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtOmcFxP8A/

low-quality GIF version:

Show Image

Is that JTK White/Purple? What layout are you using? I'm wanting to use that set on mine. The set didn't come with a 2nd 2.25x shift key for Right Shift so I'm not quite sure what to do with R4. The Tsangen shift that came with JTK and is used on 75% boards isn't an option as far as I can tell.

On the 2.0 PCB you can replace the 2.25 left key with a 1u and 1.25u key. No bastard shift needed.

So what key are you using for right shift? I thought the only 1.25 that came with JTK are ctrl, alt, win, and menu keys

I used the menu key and the compass star.

Ah awesome! I'll have to consider using that layout. Love the board...especially the meow cap.

[derezzed]

One of the images on the Clueboard store's PCB page shows a lot of light under the keys.  Do you have Zealios on that board? Does enough light shine through the holes in the PCB to  backlight the keys?  I won't get the benefit of underlighting with my aluminum case.  Backlight has never mattered to me but I'm strongly considering buying LEDs to put on the Clueboard when I buy it, if the keys will be lit.  I have a dark gray case.  Would painting the inside of the case with a chrome, or other highly reflective paint, have an appreciable effect on the amount of light that shines through the PCB?

[skullydazed]

One of the images on the Clueboard store's PCB page shows a lot of light under the keys.  Do you have Zealios on that board? Does enough light shine through the holes in the PCB to  backlight the keys?  I won't get the benefit of underlighting with my aluminum case.  Backlight has never mattered to me but I'm strongly considering buying LEDs to put on the Clueboard when I buy it, if the keys will be lit.  I have a dark gray case.  Would painting the inside of the case with a chrome, or other highly reflective paint, have an appreciable effect on the amount of light that shines through the PCB?

That particular board is gateron blacks with a white acrylic plate. The light shines through both the plate and the switches to create that underglow effect. I haven't yet experimented with the aluminum cases but yes, if you paint the inside with something reflective you will get a lot of light shining through clear switches. I think the effect would be even better if you have a clear or white acrylic plate rather than an aluminum plate.

[derezzed]

Do you sell acrylic plates for the FC660m case?  Right now, the lack of availability of plates is the only thing holding up my purchase.

[skullydazed]

Do you sell acrylic plates for the FC660m case?  Right now, the lack of availability of plates is the only thing holding up my purchase.

I'm working out how to offer this as a service, but PM or email me and I'll point you to what I have for that so far. I can laser cut acrylic plates for pretty much anything.

[merlin64]

I've read that WS2811 active LEDs are pretty much the same thing as the one you recommended. Does this work as well?

[yinzer]

I've read that WS2811 active LEDs are pretty much the same thing as the one you recommended. Does this work as well?

It looks like those have 6 contact pads while the recommended WS2812Bs have 4.

It might be different if you are using a strip with the V1 PCB -- but the V2 PCB LED definitely only has 4 pads.

If someone else claims that this will work, I wouldn't argue otherwise.

[pwade3]

Well I got some Zealios ordered, now I just have to figure out what case color to go with!

I can't decide what keyset I have in mind for the board, so that's not helping either. 

[skullydazed]

I've read that WS2811 active LEDs are pretty much the same thing as the one you recommended. Does this work as well?

Yinzer is correct, you need WS2812B's. You can also use WS2812C's, which are not as bright but otherwise compatible. If you are using an RGB strip instead of the pads you can use any WS2811/WS2812 based LED strip.

[skullydazed]

The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.

[merlin64]

I've read that WS2811 active LEDs are pretty much the same thing as the one you recommended. Does this work as well?

Yinzer is correct, you need WS2812B's. You can also use WS2812C's, which are not as bright but otherwise compatible. If you are using an RGB strip instead of the pads you can use any WS2811/WS2812 based LED strip.

Ahh ok, reason I ask is that I can find those locally. Sparkfun seems to have messed up my shipping. Tracking shows that it arrived at my office but no one ever saw it being delivered. Hopefully I get those LEDs in soon!

[yinzer]

The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.

I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.

Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.

[Wannabe]

The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.

I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.

Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.

I should hopefully have my 2.0 up and running this weekend. I'm using the underlighting so I'll let you know what happens with mine.

[skullydazed]

The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.

I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.

Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.

What happens when you press Fn+R+Space several times?

[yinzer]

The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.

I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.

Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.

What happens when you press Fn+R+Space several times?

The letter 'r' and then several spaces.

[skullydazed]

The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.

I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.

Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.

What happens when you press Fn+R+Space several times?

The letter 'r' and then several spaces.

Whatever you're pressing for Fn isn't actually Fn. Can you try something like Passmark or the OS X keyboard viewer to see what key lights up when you press what you think Fn is?

[yinzer]

The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.

I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.

Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.

What happens when you press Fn+R+Space several times?

The letter 'r' and then several spaces.

Whatever you're pressing for Fn isn't actually Fn. Can you try something like Passmark or the OS X keyboard viewer to see what key lights up when you press what you think Fn is?

So, function isn't displaying in those programs. However, it still seems to work as intended. In those programs, Fn + Backspace will register as Delete. I can do Fn + a number for the Function row or  Fn + S + R to reset.

It's just that the LED control doesn't seem to work for me.

[Wannabe]

The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.

I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.

Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.

What happens when you press Fn+R+Space several times?

The letter 'r' and then several spaces.

Whatever you're pressing for Fn isn't actually Fn. Can you try something like Passmark or the OS X keyboard viewer to see what key lights up when you press what you think Fn is?

So, function isn't displaying in those programs. However, it still seems to work as intended. In those programs, Fn + Backspace will register as Delete. I can do Fn + a number for the Function row or  Fn + S + R to reset.

It's just that the LED control doesn't seem to work for me.

Just tested PassMark on my 1.0 and that's how mine works too. Nothing registers/lights up when I press Fn, but all the Fn shortcuts register. Though when I change the keyboard type to the Dell Port laptop keyboard, Fn is yellowed out and listed as not testable.

[skullydazed]

The firmware has been fixed! Please update your copies and let me know if you run into any more problems.

I'm still not able to control the LED options through the keyboard shortcuts. Though, looking at the update times on GitHub, it doesn't look like you made any changes to the default keymap. I've flashed both the default keymap and your keymap.

Also, I'm not sure if this is just me or not. I haven't seen anyone else post their new Clueboards with the RGB underlights. I wouldn't rule out a problem with the install, but all of the lights are lighting up in that red pattern as seen in the gif I posted. The only thing I could think of is that the pattern on the red lights is a signal for where there is a break in the chain, but I haven't been able to find anything that suggests that feature is built into QMK.

What happens when you press Fn+R+Space several times?

The letter 'r' and then several spaces.

Whatever you're pressing for Fn isn't actually Fn. Can you try something like Passmark or the OS X keyboard viewer to see what key lights up when you press what you think Fn is?

So, function isn't displaying in those programs. However, it still seems to work as intended. In those programs, Fn + Backspace will register as Delete. I can do Fn + a number for the Function row or  Fn + S + R to reset.

It's just that the LED control doesn't seem to work for me.

Sorry, looking back I made a mistake in what I told you. What happens when you press Fn+S+Space a few times?

(I was thinking of the reset command, which is Fn+S+R)

[yinzer]

So, function isn't displaying in those programs. However, it still seems to work as intended. In those programs, Fn + Backspace will register as Delete. I can do Fn + a number for the Function row or  Fn + S + R to reset.

It's just that the LED control doesn't seem to work for me.

Sorry, looking back I made a mistake in what I told you. What happens when you press Fn+S+Space a few times?

(I was thinking of the reset command, which is Fn+S+R)

I get spaces. For whatever reason, the LED commands in the Reset layer act as if they are transparent. As I said, I'm not 100% sure that this isn't the result of an installation error, but I feel as if those commands would probably be non-responsive as opposed to having some sort of input.

[skullydazed]

So, function isn't displaying in those programs. However, it still seems to work as intended. In those programs, Fn + Backspace will register as Delete. I can do Fn + a number for the Function row or  Fn + S + R to reset.

It's just that the LED control doesn't seem to work for me.

Sorry, looking back I made a mistake in what I told you. What happens when you press Fn+S+Space a few times?

(I was thinking of the reset command, which is Fn+S+R)

I get spaces. For whatever reason, the LED commands in the Reset layer act as if they are transparent. As I said, I'm not 100% sure that this isn't the result of an installation error, but I feel as if those commands would probably be non-responsive as opposed to having some sort of input.

My day is pretty booked, but tonight I will doublecheck what is posted and create a firmware that I know works, and have you try that hex. Then we can narrow down whether it's a software or hardware issue. My gut says software.

[Wannabe]

So, function isn't displaying in those programs. However, it still seems to work as intended. In those programs, Fn + Backspace will register as Delete. I can do Fn + a number for the Function row or  Fn + S + R to reset.

It's just that the LED control doesn't seem to work for me.

Sorry, looking back I made a mistake in what I told you. What happens when you press Fn+S+Space a few times?

(I was thinking of the reset command, which is Fn+S+R)

I get spaces. For whatever reason, the LED commands in the Reset layer act as if they are transparent. As I said, I'm not 100% sure that this isn't the result of an installation error, but I feel as if those commands would probably be non-responsive as opposed to having some sort of input.

I'm getting the same thing. Only one of my LEDs is flashing red, and none of the Fn+S layer stuff seems to work. Using the default everything. Made sure rgb was enabled in Makefile and did a make and loaded it up.  All other keys work and the normal Fn layer stuff works. Fn+Backspace registers as Delete etc. Fn+S+Spacebar just gives me spaces too.

[yinzer]

I'm getting the same thing. Only one of my LEDs is flashing red, and none of the Fn+S layer stuff seems to work. Using the default everything. Made sure rgb was enabled in Makefile and did a make and loaded it up.  All other keys work and the normal Fn layer stuff works. Fn+Backspace registers as Delete etc. Fn+S+Spacebar just gives me spaces too.

Try adding more solder to the LEDs. I only had a few lighting up at first, but then I added more solder to the pads and I eventually got them all to light up.

[Wannabe]

 

I'm getting the same thing. Only one of my LEDs is flashing red, and none of the Fn+S layer stuff seems to work. Using the default everything. Made sure rgb was enabled in Makefile and did a make and loaded it up.  All other keys work and the normal Fn layer stuff works. Fn+Backspace registers as Delete etc. Fn+S+Spacebar just gives me spaces too.

Try adding more solder to the LEDs. I only had a few lighting up at first, but then I added more solder to the pads and I eventually got them all to light up.

Yea working on that. When I first plugged in the keyboard all the LEDs briefly flashed blue, but the only one LED under left control started blinking red while the others aren't on at all.

[yinzer]

I'm getting the same thing. Only one of my LEDs is flashing red, and none of the Fn+S layer stuff seems to work. Using the default everything. Made sure rgb was enabled in Makefile and did a make and loaded it up.  All other keys work and the normal Fn layer stuff works. Fn+Backspace registers as Delete etc. Fn+S+Spacebar just gives me spaces too.

Try adding more solder to the LEDs. I only had a few lighting up at first, but then I added more solder to the pads and I eventually got them all to light up.

Yea working on that. When I first plugged in the keyboard all the LEDs briefly flashed blue, but the only one LED under left control started blinking red while the others aren't on at all.

That's exactly what I had at first. Not all of your LEDs may need more solder. Take a note of which LED is flashing and then add solder to the two switches next to it. Rinse and repeat as necessary. The flash sequence starts with the second or third from the left on the bottom.. or, at least that's what mine did.

[Wannabe]

I'm getting the same thing. Only one of my LEDs is flashing red, and none of the Fn+S layer stuff seems to work. Using the default everything. Made sure rgb was enabled in Makefile and did a make and loaded it up.  All other keys work and the normal Fn layer stuff works. Fn+Backspace registers as Delete etc. Fn+S+Spacebar just gives me spaces too.

Try adding more solder to the LEDs. I only had a few lighting up at first, but then I added more solder to the pads and I eventually got them all to light up.

Yea working on that. When I first plugged in the keyboard all the LEDs briefly flashed blue, but the only one LED under left control started blinking red while the others aren't on at all.

That's exactly what I had at first. Not all of your LEDs may need more solder. Take a note of which LED is flashing and then add solder to the two switches next to it. Rinse and repeat as necessary. The flash sequence starts with the second or third from the left on the bottom.. or, at least that's what mine did.

Add solder to the key switches to help fix the LEDs?

[yinzer]

I'm getting the same thing. Only one of my LEDs is flashing red, and none of the Fn+S layer stuff seems to work. Using the default everything. Made sure rgb was enabled in Makefile and did a make and loaded it up.  All other keys work and the normal Fn layer stuff works. Fn+Backspace registers as Delete etc. Fn+S+Spacebar just gives me spaces too.

Try adding more solder to the LEDs. I only had a few lighting up at first, but then I added more solder to the pads and I eventually got them all to light up.

Yea working on that. When I first plugged in the keyboard all the LEDs briefly flashed blue, but the only one LED under left control started blinking red while the others aren't on at all.

That's exactly what I had at first. Not all of your LEDs may need more solder. Take a note of which LED is flashing and then add solder to the two switches next to it. Rinse and repeat as necessary. The flash sequence starts with the second or third from the left on the bottom.. or, at least that's what mine did.

Add solder to the key switches to help fix the LEDs?

No. That was me being dumb and getting my words jumbled.

Solder the two LEDs next to the one that's lighting up. My pattern goes clock-wise from the one that you have lighting up and then it 'bounces' back around.

[Wannabe]

So I now currently have 2 blinking reddish/orange LEDs near the arrow keys on the bottom row and one solid bright pink near Esc. I'm pretty sure all of my LEDs are on correctly. They all briefly flash when I unplug and then plug it back in.

[skullydazed]

So I now currently have 2 blinking reddish/orange LEDs near the arrow keys on the bottom row and one solid bright pink near Esc. I'm pretty sure all of my LEDs are on correctly. They all briefly flash when I unplug and then plug it back in.

That seems to mean the power pins are connected OK but the data pins are not. The pin with the line next to it is GND, and the pin kitty corner from that is VCC. You don't have to mess with those if it flashes when you plug it in.

The first LED is the one by the arrows. The pin closest to the bottom row, on the same side as the pin with the line, is the DIN pin. The pin kitty corner from that is DOUT. You can trace the chain around the PCB from there, finding the second LED between SLASH and RSHIFT. Follow those around one by one, double checking the solder joints at the DIN of the first one that does not light, and DOUT of the last one that lights.

I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to get the firmware built and double-checked yet. I'm working on it still.

[Wannabe]

I have confirmed that the Fn+S+R command puts my keyboard into reset mode, so the 3rd layer is at least activating for me

[yinzer]

So I now currently have 2 blinking reddish/orange LEDs near the arrow keys on the bottom row and one solid bright pink near Esc. I'm pretty sure all of my LEDs are on correctly. They all briefly flash when I unplug and then plug it back in.

That seems to mean the power pins are connected OK but the data pins are not. The pin with the line next to it is GND, and the pin kitty corner from that is VCC. You don't have to mess with those if it flashes when you plug it in.

The first LED is the one by the arrows. The pin closest to the bottom row, on the same side as the pin with the line, is the DIN pin. The pin kitty corner from that is DOUT. You can trace the chain around the PCB from there, finding the second LED between SLASH and RSHIFT. Follow those around one by one, double checking the solder joints at the DIN of the first one that does not light, and DOUT of the last one that lights.

I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to get the firmware built and double-checked yet. I'm working on it still.

 

Wait, is this the case with my PCB with the red flashing pattern as well or just for what Wannabe described?

[skullydazed]

So I now currently have 2 blinking reddish/orange LEDs near the arrow keys on the bottom row and one solid bright pink near Esc. I'm pretty sure all of my LEDs are on correctly. They all briefly flash when I unplug and then plug it back in.

That seems to mean the power pins are connected OK but the data pins are not. The pin with the line next to it is GND, and the pin kitty corner from that is VCC. You don't have to mess with those if it flashes when you plug it in.

The first LED is the one by the arrows. The pin closest to the bottom row, on the same side as the pin with the line, is the DIN pin. The pin kitty corner from that is DOUT. You can trace the chain around the PCB from there, finding the second LED between SLASH and RSHIFT. Follow those around one by one, double checking the solder joints at the DIN of the first one that does not light, and DOUT of the last one that lights.

I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to get the firmware built and double-checked yet. I'm working on it still.

 

Wait, is this the case with my PCB with the red flashing pattern as well or just for what Wannabe described?

If all the lights flash then your hardware is OK, and what you have is a software problem. Speaking of, I have a fix!

Thanks to a pointer from longhorn on irc, I committed and pushed the fix needed to enable and use RGB Underlighting. If you just want to flash a firmware that I have tested as working, grab this:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fsg819qzb2mjx87/clueboard2.hex?dl=0

Once you flash that you can hit Fn+S+Spacebar to successfully toggle between modes.

[yinzer]

So I now currently have 2 blinking reddish/orange LEDs near the arrow keys on the bottom row and one solid bright pink near Esc. I'm pretty sure all of my LEDs are on correctly. They all briefly flash when I unplug and then plug it back in.

That seems to mean the power pins are connected OK but the data pins are not. The pin with the line next to it is GND, and the pin kitty corner from that is VCC. You don't have to mess with those if it flashes when you plug it in.

The first LED is the one by the arrows. The pin closest to the bottom row, on the same side as the pin with the line, is the DIN pin. The pin kitty corner from that is DOUT. You can trace the chain around the PCB from there, finding the second LED between SLASH and RSHIFT. Follow those around one by one, double checking the solder joints at the DIN of the first one that does not light, and DOUT of the last one that lights.

I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to get the firmware built and double-checked yet. I'm working on it still.

 

Wait, is this the case with my PCB with the red flashing pattern as well or just for what Wannabe described?

If all the lights flash then your hardware is OK, and what you have is a software problem. Speaking of, I have a fix!

Thanks to a pointer from longhorn on irc, I committed and pushed the fix needed to enable and use RGB Underlighting. If you just want to flash a firmware that I have tested as working, grab this:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fsg819qzb2mjx87/clueboard2.hex?dl=0

Once you flash that you can hit Fn+S+Spacebar to successfully toggle between modes.

 

The hex you provided definitely works.

[skullydazed]

So I now currently have 2 blinking reddish/orange LEDs near the arrow keys on the bottom row and one solid bright pink near Esc. I'm pretty sure all of my LEDs are on correctly. They all briefly flash when I unplug and then plug it back in.

That seems to mean the power pins are connected OK but the data pins are not. The pin with the line next to it is GND, and the pin kitty corner from that is VCC. You don't have to mess with those if it flashes when you plug it in.

The first LED is the one by the arrows. The pin closest to the bottom row, on the same side as the pin with the line, is the DIN pin. The pin kitty corner from that is DOUT. You can trace the chain around the PCB from there, finding the second LED between SLASH and RSHIFT. Follow those around one by one, double checking the solder joints at the DIN of the first one that does not light, and DOUT of the last one that lights.

I'm sorry I haven't had a chance to get the firmware built and double-checked yet. I'm working on it still.

 

Wait, is this the case with my PCB with the red flashing pattern as well or just for what Wannabe described?

If all the lights flash then your hardware is OK, and what you have is a software problem. Speaking of, I have a fix!

Thanks to a pointer from longhorn on irc, I committed and pushed the fix needed to enable and use RGB Underlighting. If you just want to flash a firmware that I have tested as working, grab this:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fsg819qzb2mjx87/clueboard2.hex?dl=0

Once you flash that you can hit Fn+S+Spacebar to successfully toggle between modes.

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 :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

The hex you provided definitely works.

Awesome! Thanks for confirming it!  :thumb:

[JaccoW]

Got my Clueboard yesterday... together with a hefty tax. But that's the risk of international shipping.

It looks great. I'll make some pictures soon.

I did just realize that the aluminum alps plate does not have the option for an 1.75x + 1x right shift.
Ah well.

[skullydazed]

Got my Clueboard yesterday... together with a hefty tax. But that's the risk of international shipping.

It looks great. I'll make some pictures soon.

I did just realize that the aluminum alps plate does not have the option for an 1.75x + 1x right shift.
Ah well.

I always feel badly for those of you who have to deal with customs tax. But glad you got it ok and hope you enjoy it!

Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.

[StormyMonday]

I'm in. I'll be sending my pops some Quiet Click love. 

I'd definitely be interested in additional Alps bottom row options for myself, though.

[merlin64]

leds came in today and I am beginning to realize that I am a horrible surface mount solderer. I have a stock 2.0 board and I haven't tried flashing any firmware. I've soldered in 4 right now using different techniques, are any of them supposed to light up when I plug the board in?

Anyone got any tips?

[StormyMonday]

For you folks getting the v2.0 PCB ... there are only 16 of those strips left on Sparkfun .. I'd be surprised if they didn't restock soon, but if you're really geeked about getting that under-light, I'd move on these. 

If Sparkfun runs out of the individual LEDs, Mouser is also stocking them. Can't remember if I saw the strips on Mouser, or not.

I noticed that a couple of eBay vendors carry both the individuals and the strips.

[skullydazed]

leds came in today and I am beginning to realize that I am a horrible surface mount solderer. I have a stock 2.0 board and I haven't tried flashing any firmware. I've soldered in 4 right now using different techniques, are any of them supposed to light up when I plug the board in?

Anyone got any tips?

They won't light up until you flash the firmware.

I recommend starting with RGB1, which is the one near the arrows. Solder that one in place, flash the firmware, attempt to turn on underlighting. If it doesn't light up, one of the solder joints isn't attached well enough. I will make a video this weekend to demonstrate how I do it.

[merlin64]

Thanks skully. I'm fairly adept at soldering smd resistors but I think the pads this time are a bit too small for my iron tip

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[alexjj]

Guess I need to get my soldering iron back out...



 

[vivalarevolución]

Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.

Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage.  Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.

I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.

[StormyMonday]

Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.

Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage.  Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.

I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.

Swill's tool accepts the output from www.keyboard-layout-editor.com, so it's dead simple to generate plates and skeleton cases.

[skullydazed]

Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.

Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage.  Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.

I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.

The alps plates I'm sending out now look like this:



This supports all the bottom rows, but I haven't been able to find a way to support more switch locations on the other rows. If a switch cutout overlaps a stabilizer cutout, it means you can't use a stabilized key there at all.

[StormyMonday]

Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.

Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage.  Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.

I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.

The alps plates I'm sending out now look like this:

Show Image

This supports all the bottom rows, but I haven't been able to find a way to support more switch locations on the other rows. If a switch cutout overlaps a stabilizer cutout, it means you can't use a stabilized key there at all.

What is the arrangement for the Alps spacebar?

[merlin64]

Got around to soldering those LEDs correctly. Though unfortunately, the path to success is often ripe with failure. I ended up stripping one of the pads @_@. I guess I'm in line for Rev 3.0 whenever that comes around. Please please please have RGB led soldered options hahha.