Soldering and Assembly Thread

[Karura]

Welcome to the official soldering and assembly thread!

Didn't see an active thread for this kinda thing, and I thought that since most of us are interested in custom keyboards, desoldering switches, and what not, it would be good to have a place to consolidate all information.
Generally this hobby has a lot of soldering involved in it, so having a thread like this with easily accessible information would encourage more people to try their hand at doing their own soldering and assembly.

I encourage questions, but discourage uninformed questions, so please do a bit of research first before posting questions, so we can keep the thread clean and informative.

For me, I have at least 10 keyboard projects on the horizon, and figured this would be a good opportunity to invest in a proper setup and learn to solder well.
I have a Hakko FX-888D, with an assortment of chisel tips, tip cleaner, and a spool of Kester Rosin Core 63/37 .020 solder. Very excited about it, and will share my thoughts once I actually get a chance to use it.

Share your soldering setup, assembly tools, and methods with the community!

[Sifo]

Well, there is this : https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.0

LastPilot and I were talking about creating a group with the assemblers on geekhack lol

[Karura]

Well, there is this : https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.0

LastPilot and I were talking about creating a group with the assemblers on geekhack lol

Whoops... I think I have even posted in that one before. Haha.

Maybe we can make this thread more about assembly, discuss how people do it, and stuff.

[Sifo]

I'm on break from assembling (well, other than this one Filco cuz they're local) but I'll contribute as best as I can if anyone has questions or wonders how I do ****.

[Karura]

I'm on break from assembling (well, other than this one Filco cuz they're local) but I'll contribute as best as I can if anyone has questions or wonders how I do ****.

I asked you a bunch of questions when you last live streamed. It was really fun haha, hope you come back to assembling and post more videos

Maybe might even good to record them, for those that missed the livestream.

[Sifo]

What you mean the stream where I found out I had a defective soldapult and rekt some PCBs?

Good times.

Waiting for geekhackers to restock

[filphil]

I just talked to ming and he's ordering them. I think he should have more by Friday

Edit
He put an order in today . He said to check up with him by the end of the week. But that may have been for the other stuff I'm ordering.

[Sifo]

I just talked to ming and he's ordering them. I think he should have more by Friday

Well he's the one who confirmed to me today that mine was defective :/ luckily I shouldn't desperately need it any time soon.

[filphil]

I just talked to ming and he's ordering them. I think he should have more by Friday

Well he's the one who confirmed to me today that mine was defective :/ luckily I shouldn't desperately need it any time soon.

That's funny. Mine exploded on me this morning. In hindsight it was completely avoidable but I was tired and just got home from work. I'm having the remains sent off to him in the morning so that he can give it to edsyn for autopsy.

[ika]

What's the verdict on those cheap chinese Hakko 936/937 clones? I got a 2-in-1 station with a hot air rework gun for $40. I realize they're cheap for a reason but I'm not exactly putting together a robot here... right?

[Karura]

I just bought a Soldapault off Ming's site.

Any chance it could be one of the older ones with explosive innards?

[filphil]

Was it within  the last six hours? I bought two and he was out of stock so he ordered more.

[Sifo]

Nah he said he ran out so you'd be getting a new one from the same batch as us.

[Karura]

It was shipped out today and ordered yesterday. Hmm.

[filphil]

It was shipped out today and ordered yesterday. Hmm.

I don't know how often they explode but the way ming reacted to my email it didn't seem to be a common occurrence. I mean it was disastrous with the rod, push button, Springs all falling apart in my hands. It was both comical yet infuriating at the same time.

[mkawa]

EdsynNick and I are following up on the potentially defective units; We have been tracking this all year and are trying to determine whether this is a manufacturing defect or a bad batch and if either of those, how to fix it. even if it is user error, there still needs to be a fix, so yah, we're definitely on it.

I have another batch of units coming next week. Keep in mind that Edsyn's manufacturing batches are hundreds to thousands of units at a time.

[mkawa]

but yah, total explosion is a new thing.

[Eszett]

Yes, I have a question. Can a hot air solder station replace a soldering iron, and if not, why not?

[meow a cat]

Interesting thread. I'm going to be assembling a KMAC LE with a Gon PCB/plate soon, but I've never worked on one before, anyone have any tips or things I should watch out for during my build?

I've never worked with PCB mounted stabilizers, just plate mount, so hopefully I don't mess something up and have to de-solder the entire board.  )

[mkawa]

Yes, I have a question. Can a hot air solder station replace a soldering iron, and if not, why not?

some joints require too much power delivery. hot air also requires that the air be highly focused to not burn things around the area, since the air is carrying so much thermal energy. so there's a cross-section issue: some joints are physically too large, and there's a total power delivery issue.

there's also a simple physical hold-down issue. hot air has to have high velocity which can move parts of the joint that you don't want moved.

[filphil]

Welcome to the official soldering and assembly thread!

Didn't see an active thread for this kinda thing, and I thought that since most of us are interested in custom keyboards, desoldering switches, and what not, it would be good to have a place to consolidate all information.
Generally this hobby has a lot of soldering involved in it, so having a thread like this with easily accessible information would encourage more people to try their hand at doing their own soldering and assembly.

I encourage questions, but discourage uninformed questions, so please do a bit of research first before posting questions, so we can keep the thread clean and informative.

For me, I have at least 10 keyboard projects on the horizon, and figured this would be a good opportunity to invest in a proper setup and learn to solder well.
I have a Hakko FX-888D, with an assortment of chisel tips, tip cleaner, and a spool of Kester Rosin Core 63/37 .020 solder. Very excited about it, and will share my thoughts once I actually get a chance to use it.

Share your soldering setup, assembly tools, and methods with the community!

Setup:
Edsyn CL1481 w/ PS536 power supply
Edsyn Soldapullt which is currently MIA
Edsyn EA439 brass sponge cleaner thing


Is there any issue with using that fan to draw away fumes from me?  This work area is in a garage and I leave the garage door open when I solder but I'm unsure if it'll explode in my face one day.

Also there's a fire extinguisher right behind me just in case my cardboard mat would like to catch fire.

[Eszett]

mkawa! That answers my question, thank you.

[infiniti]

Nice thread Karura!  I hope you don't mind that I moved it to the making stuff together! sub-forum.

Anyway, I use a Hakko 936 I picked up second hand at a local electronics thrift shop in '99.  If and when it dies, I'll get an 888D.  I primarily use the conical 900M-T-I tip and 0.6mm 60/40 solder.  I solder in the front patio where one side is open to the garden.  I clean residue with 70% isopropyl alcohol and some brushes.

Other stuff in my bin of soldering stuff: a pair of 3M comfort grip gloves, tweezers and forceps in various sizes, solder wick, desoldering pumps (big and small), soldering flux, helping hands with a magnifying glass, and wooden chopsticks.


== == == == == ==

Interesting thread. I'm going to be assembling a KMAC LE with a Gon PCB/plate soon, but I've never worked on one before, anyone have any tips or things I should watch out for during my build?

I've never worked with PCB mounted stabilizers, just plate mount, so hopefully I don't mess something up and have to de-solder the entire board.  )

1. Install the PCB-mount stabilizers before you start soldering.  Depending on the plate design, you may not be able to attach the PCB-mount stabilizers after the plate has been installed and switches soldered in.

2. If you will be installing through-hole components, do not solder them on the side of the PCB that you mount the stabilizers and switches.  Solder them on the PCB side that faces the keyboard case.  You may have fitment issues with stabilizers and / or switches...see the pic below.



3. If it's your first time, take it easy.  If you don't trust your soldering skills, develop them by practicing on old electronics (preferably non-working hehe).

[Bomble]

I've been thinking about building my own board as a project to pass some time over the summer/christmas holidays. Where would you guys recommend that I look for some good information on how to get started, what I need and practice soldering, etc.?

[tofgerl]

Assembly-related question: I am soldering some switches and LEDs on a QF TK, going from brown to gateron blues on the alphas, keeping the browns on the mods.
Anyway, I am putting the LEDs back, and can't find a comfortable way to do it. If I just put the LEDs in the switches and turn the board around to start soldering, some fall all the way out, and the rest at least some of the way out.

How do I keep them in their place when they're upside down?

[quochung1989]

What do you do with wooden chopsticks, infiniti?

Share your soldering setup, assembly tools, and methods with the community!

I use Goot PX-201 solder iron with PX-2RT-B tip, Kester Cosin 63/37 0.02 solder, tips cleaner, tweezer & little tools.
Now I am finding hot air rework station because I usually SMD. Maybe I am interested Edsyn 951Sxe if it support 220v.

[filphil]

Assembly-related question: I am soldering some switches and LEDs on a QF TK, going from brown to gateron blues on the alphas, keeping the browns on the mods.
Anyway, I am putting the LEDs back, and can't find a comfortable way to do it. If I just put the LEDs in the switches and turn the board around to start soldering, some fall all the way out, and the rest at least some of the way out.

How do I keep them in their place when they're upside down?

Use some tape.

[sethk_]

Assembly-related question: I am soldering some switches and LEDs on a QF TK, going from brown to gateron blues on the alphas, keeping the browns on the mods.
Anyway, I am putting the LEDs back, and can't find a comfortable way to do it. If I just put the LEDs in the switches and turn the board around to start soldering, some fall all the way out, and the rest at least some of the way out.

How do I keep them in their place when they're upside down?

Use some tape.

I bend mine. I recommend using tape. Its a ***** and a half to  desolder bent LEDs.

[meow a cat]

Nice thread Karura!  I hope you don't mind that I moved it to the making stuff together! sub-forum.

Anyway, I use a Hakko 936 I picked up second hand at a local electronics thrift shop in '99.  If and when it dies, I'll get an 888D.  I primarily use the conical 900M-T-I tip and 0.6mm 60/40 solder.  I solder in the front patio where one side is open to the garden.  I clean residue with 70% isopropyl alcohol and some brushes.

Other stuff in my bin of soldering stuff: a pair of 3M comfort grip gloves, tweezers and forceps in various sizes, solder wick, desoldering pumps (big and small), soldering flux, helping hands with a magnifying glass, and wooden chopsticks.


== == == == == ==

Interesting thread. I'm going to be assembling a KMAC LE with a Gon PCB/plate soon, but I've never worked on one before, anyone have any tips or things I should watch out for during my build?

I've never worked with PCB mounted stabilizers, just plate mount, so hopefully I don't mess something up and have to de-solder the entire board.  )

1. Install the PCB-mount stabilizers before you start soldering.  Depending on the plate design, you may not be able to attach the PCB-mount stabilizers after the plate has been installed and switches soldered in.

2. If you will be installing through-hole components, do not solder them on the side of the PCB that you mount the stabilizers and switches.  Solder them on the PCB side that faces the keyboard case.  You may have fitment issues with stabilizers and / or switches...see the pic below.

(Attachment Link)

3. If it's your first time, take it easy.  If you don't trust your soldering skills, develop them by practicing on old electronics (preferably non-working hehe).

Thanks for the tips Infiniti! Much appreciated. Especially the second tip, that's really good to know! 

I'm not a master solderer by any stretch, but I'm 100% confident in my keyboard building abilities. For this build, I'll be doing SMD LEDs, that's new to me. So I'm going to take it slow, but I'm pretty certain I can do it. I've done a full Phantom build, and a bunch of board teardowns, switch removals, plate swaps.

Share your soldering setup, assembly tools, and methods with the community!

I use a Hakko FX888D, with one fine conical and one fine chisel tip. Standard Edsyn soldapullt, MG Chemicals 63/37 solder, Chipquik flux, Edsyn wick, and bunch of little tools, like tweezers and junk.

[tofgerl]

Tape... So simple. I'll just blame the fumes...

[suicidal_orange]

Assembly-related question: I am soldering some switches and LEDs on a QF TK, going from brown to gateron blues on the alphas, keeping the browns on the mods.
Anyway, I am putting the LEDs back, and can't find a comfortable way to do it. If I just put the LEDs in the switches and turn the board around to start soldering, some fall all the way out, and the rest at least some of the way out.

How do I keep them in their place when they're upside down?

I use a little bit of blu tack because tape sticks to itself and it sticks to my fingers, but it rarely sticks to anything I want it to

[Parak]

I tend to use these Knipex pliers that cut and bend the lead at the same time, which holds it more or less in place as well. Technically/theoretically, this is better than bending the leads then soldering them and cutting after, as cutting a soldered lead stresses it and can damage the joint.

[hasu]

Welcome to the official soldering and assembly thread!

Didn't see an active thread for this kinda thing, and I thought that since most of us are interested in custom keyboards, desoldering switches, and what not, it would be good to have a place to consolidate all information.
Generally this hobby has a lot of soldering involved in it, so having a thread like this with easily accessible information would encourage more people to try their hand at doing their own soldering and assembly.

I encourage questions, but discourage uninformed questions, so please do a bit of research first before posting questions, so we can keep the thread clean and informative.

For me, I have at least 10 keyboard projects on the horizon, and figured this would be a good opportunity to invest in a proper setup and learn to solder well.
I have a Hakko FX-888D, with an assortment of chisel tips, tip cleaner, and a spool of Kester Rosin Core 63/37 .020 solder. Very excited about it, and will share my thoughts once I actually get a chance to use it.

Share your soldering setup, assembly tools, and methods with the community!

Show Image

Setup:
Edsyn CL1481 w/ PS536 power supply
Edsyn Soldapullt which is currently MIA
Edsyn EA439 brass sponge cleaner thing


Is there any issue with using that fan to draw away fumes from me?  This work area is in a garage and I leave the garage door open when I solder but I'm unsure if it'll explode in my face one day.

Also there's a fire extinguisher right behind me just in case my cardboard mat would like to catch fire.

That large fan looks powerfu and nice.
My Hakko smaller fume fan is not powerful enough pull all fume away from me, you must solder within 10-15cm to the fan, not useful in many case. And it is noisy, so I'm often lazy to turn it on and usually huffing and puffing to keep fume away during soldering session :D I'm thinking DIY fume hood now.

[filphil]

I love the eyes on your brass sponge container.

[tofgerl]

Due to confusion I've got seven Pro Micro controllers with no USB port, and an Atmega 32A8U instead of 32A4U. There are some pins on the board instead of the USB port, so I have no idea if these are good for anything. Should I just throw them away?

[filphil]

Is it just me or are solder wicks cumbersome to use?  I was testing it on a junk pcb and can't get the usage down. 

[Evo_Spec]

Is it just me or are solder wicks cumbersome to use?  I was testing it on a junk pcb and can't get the usage down. 

i've always had a lot of trouble with it, i've had much more luck with a pump

[quochung1989]

I spend a long times to use it. Since I give up china product, I easy to use it.

[kohi]

Is it just me or are solder wicks cumbersome to use?  I was testing it on a junk pcb and can't get the usage down. 

i've always had a lot of trouble with it, i've had much more luck with a pump

I gave myself a minor burn first time using it.. and I couldn't even get all the solder out lmao

[Parak]

Due to confusion I've got seven Pro Micro controllers with no USB port, and an Atmega 32A8U instead of 32A4U. There are some pins on the board instead of the USB port, so I have no idea if these are good for anything. Should I just throw them away?

A bit offtopic, but I think the gist is that while those controllers are not useless (generally speaking), using them for USB is going to be sufficiently tricky that it's not worth bothering over getting the correct ones instead.

Is it just me or are solder wicks cumbersome to use?  I was testing it on a junk pcb and can't get the usage down. 

You need wicks with good rosin in them. Generically speaking, wicks should be bright and shiny, and in use should produce little puddles of flux. If you don't get that, you might have a bad wick. Adding liquid flux, like MG Chemicals 835 will help. That said, wicks are typically more useful for cleaning surface mount pads and excessive solder rather than desoldering through holes.

Oh, and some of my setup (that is not seeing as much use as it should):

[havenlau]

What's the verdict on those cheap chinese Hakko 936/937 clones? I got a 2-in-1 station with a hot air rework gun for $40. I realize they're cheap for a reason but I'm not exactly putting together a robot here... right?

I bought one from hobbyking for $20 i believe, not bad at all, built few boards with it including some smd components and dragging, the stock tip is surprisingly good, it didnt stick at all and it has survived 50+hrs of use

[dorkvader]

Is it just me or are solder wicks cumbersome to use?  I was testing it on a junk pcb and can't get the usage down. 

You need wicks with good rosin in them. Generically speaking, wicks should be bright and shiny, and in use should produce little puddles of flux. If you don't get that, you might have a bad wick. Adding liquid flux, like MG Chemicals 835 will help. That said, wicks are typically more useful for cleaning surface mount pads and excessive solder rather than desoldering through holes.

Once, before I had my awesome setup (pictures to come) I needed solder wick, and I used the ground strap from an old CRT, which was surprisingly effective.

my old setup for refrence:

More

IMG_20140829_010511.jpg by dork_vader_exe, on Flickr

[infiniti]

What do you do with wooden chopsticks, infiniti?

Laaaate reply...

I usually use them to poke at the legs of through-hole components when I'm lazy to use tweezers to pull them out of the other side.

[quochung1989]

What do you do with wooden chopsticks, infiniti?

Laaaate reply...

I usually use them to poke at the legs of through-hole components when I'm lazy to use tweezers to pull them out of the other side.

LOL. I can't think that @@

[jaesen]

Hey guys, I hope it's okay for me to post here instead of making a new thread. If it's not allowed, I'll remove my post but I do think it's relevant enough.

Essentially, what I want to know is if my current iron meets the specifications for soldering LEDs and switches.

I have in my possession a 25w soldering iron. Here's a picture/model for you guys to get a good grasp on the features: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Toledo-Soldering-Iron-240V-25W.aspx?pid=325139#Recommendations
Its tip is about 1mm wide and its heat range is 390 - 420C (734 - 788 F) according to the packaging. I was told that any 25w would be okay but upon closer inspection, the temperature seems a bit high and the tip a bit wide. It also says its's recommended for PCB and light electrical work but I don't want to take that for granted.

If the iron is safe, are there any precautions I should take? How long should I leave the iron on the joint for given the size and temperature?

If not, what should I be looking for? Being in Australia, my options are pretty limited but this electronics store seems to have quite a range of irons:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/Tools-%26-Soldering/Soldering/Irons---Electric/c/010A

Sorry for all the questions! I've never soldered before and I want my first job to go well. I will be practicing on discarded hardware before I tackle this project though.

Thanks in advance!

[tofgerl]

Try it on something non-important. For example, everyone has an aunt with a cupboard full of broken cellphones, radios and Ford Fiesta's. Get a broken radio or something, throw it on the ground and then try first desoldering and then resoldering on some resistors or even chips if you can.

Bonus: You'll learn more about soldering by simply trying it than you could in any number of forum topics and youtube videos. As I found out when spending two hours removing 10 switches from a keyboard my first time.

[jaesen]

Try it on something non-important. For example, everyone has an aunt with a cupboard full of broken cellphones, radios and Ford Fiesta's. Get a broken radio or something, throw it on the ground and then try first desoldering and then resoldering on some resistors or even chips if you can.

Bonus: You'll learn more about soldering by simply trying it than you could in any number of forum topics and youtube videos. As I found out when spending two hours removing 10 switches from a keyboard my first time.

Haha, thanks for the great tips! I actually planned on removing and putting back a few parts from an old graphics card I have but I'll look around and see what I have.

[trees]

Wasnt sure the best place to post this, but i just finished my first ever soldering.

I soldered all the diodes on to my WIP, a HHKB B.Face.

Its very relaxing, you just get into a rhythm and fly right through them. It took me about 45 minutes but it flew right by!

So excited to finish this and then my B.Face!

[Bomble]

Wasnt sure the best place to post this, but i just finished my first ever soldering.

I soldered all the diodes on to my WIP, a HHKB B.Face.

Its very relaxing, you just get into a rhythm and fly right through them. It took me about 45 minutes but it flew right by!

So excited to finish this and then my B.Face!

That's really encouraging to hear ) I haven't soldered before but have considered owning a Cherry MX board again just so I can own a keyboard that I built myself.

Did you practice at all before starting? Or did you just dive right in?

[jaesen]

Wasnt sure the best place to post this, but i just finished my first ever soldering.

I soldered all the diodes on to my WIP, a HHKB B.Face.

Its very relaxing, you just get into a rhythm and fly right through them. It took me about 45 minutes but it flew right by!

So excited to finish this and then my B.Face!

I have the same questions as Bomble as well

Also what size solder do you plan on using on the switches and LEDs?