XT/AT/PS2/Terminal to USB Converter with NKRO

[fohat.digs]

I just got the windows key code and ctrl+f'd it here - http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/desktop/dd375731(v=vs.85).aspx

Damn! You had me going.

I thought that maybe, at long last, I could realize my dream of programming 2 of my extra keys to left and right mouse button.

Alas, VK_LBUTTON = "invalid argument"

[Kirbstomp]

How do I remap the keys? Some of the keys are screwed up and I cant figure out how to remap the keys.

[fohat.digs]

Look at reply #560 and wcass gives you a very simple and clean method.

[masihvahida]

dear sirs
i am new in the united states
can you tell me where is the place that has shops for electronic components such as avr micro controlers , resistore , capacitors , ...?
i need your help thankyou

[MGH]

dear sirs
i am new in the united states
can you tell me where is the place that has shops for electronic components such as avr micro controlers , resistore , capacitors , ...?
i need your help thankyou

I think http://www.mouser.com/ sells electronics.

[wes1099]

Thanks for the suggestion of using washers to stabilize my model m space bar. It works perfectly now!

[Jexu_IBM]

Hi,
I know nothing about teensy 2.0, I need to know something before you buy?
It is for soarer converter on a ibm 122.
It is reliable teensy ebay? or should I go pjrc ?

thank you very much, take the opportunity to thank all the great work of the libraries. A magnificent work.

[fohat.digs]

Hi,
I know nothing about teensy 2.0, I need to know something before you buy?
It is for soarer converter on a ibm 122.
It is reliable teensy ebay? or should I go pjrc ?

thank you very much, take the opportunity to thank all the great work of the libraries. A magnificent work.

PJRC is great and ships very fast. They also have backup and support.

You can get similar devices for a few dollars cheaper from their associated sellers.

The Teensy 2.0 is entirely adequate, and you should decide whether you want it "without pins" to wire direct or "with pins" for mounting on a breadboard.

[Jexu_IBM]

Thank you very much for responding.
As pjrc not accept paypal, I will order a piece in a partner. Right now! ^^

On ebay there are slight variations of the model 2.0 so I had doubts. And the travel would be horrible and eternal.

I really want to get to typing with the tank XD
Thanks.

[arakula]

Pro Micro clones work just as well; if you got the time to wait for them to arrive from China, you can get like 4 for the price of 1 Teensy.

Or from me - at the moment, I have 2 spare ones, ready for use (loaded with Grendel's BootHID boot loader and Soarer Converter - see my contributions here, on page 2 of the thread). Works nicely on the Model M 122 (another 2 are already at work inside these machines ).

[Halvar]

If it's called Teensy, it should be the PIRJ product and it should be the same no matter where you buy it. It's definitely possible to get them in Europe, you should not have to wait and pay extra taxes for an import from the US.

The cheap open hardware clone Pro Micro works, too, but programming is a little bit harder, and I did hear of people who had quality problems when buying these from some Chinese manufacturers.


EDIT: inserted missing "not"

[Jexu_IBM]

Thanks for responding Arakula and thanks also to Halvar

Arakula
First I appreciate your offer, but I already placed the order. : (
I have here a Chinese micro arduino, I put it in debugger mode and I can see the keys pulse in the serial monitor. The problem is I have no experience with HID descriptors and bootloaders. I have to read more.

Halvar
I bought it in snootlab (French), I hope I have since bought the "expensive" just is upload the data and "plug and play".
One question, I understand that teensy uses a privative bootloader, if this is cleared you can download and put back in place?I do not find clear answers to this.

At each step new questions and solutions appear. Thanks
Sorry for translation

[arakula]

I bought it in snootlab (French), I hope I have since bought the "expensive" just is upload the data and "plug and play".

It should be, yes. Both quality assurance and ease-of-use are a big plus for the Teensy.
My first M-122 mod was done with a Teensy, too.

One question, I understand that teensy uses a privative bootloader, if this is cleared you can download and put back in place?I do not find clear answers to this.

Let's see if I can put that in a concise manner...

The Halfkay boot loader is one of the Teensy range's big selling points. It is very small (in fact, creating a smaller boot loader is not even feasible on an ATmega32U4), so it leaves as much space as possible for the application. It comes with a nice, friendly set of counterpart UI programs for Windows, Mac OS, and Linux, which makes it VERY easy to use.

It is NOT open source, however.
Quite to the contrary, in fact - it's actively protected intellectual property of PJRC. When they put it onto the microcontroller, they also set a fuse that prevents you from reading it. The only way to get access to the space used by the boot loader (except for executing it, of course) is to completely erase the chip, then you can install a new boot loader ...
but then the original Teensy boot loader is gone. You can't download it from PJRC, you can never get it onto this chip again. You'd have to use another boot loader instead. The best alternative I could find is Grendel's BootHID, which takes up 1K.

At each step new questions and solutions appear.

That's perfectly normal and, at least from my personal point of view, THIS is precisely what has kept my job as a programmer both interesting and fascinating for more than 3 decades now. You never stop learning something new every day.

[Jexu_IBM]

Thank you very much Arakula.

I have seen your photos of the M-122 mod and it is what I want to do.
The bootloader has now been a little more clear thanks very good explanation.

Now I have to wait about 10 days until you receive the teensy.
Regards

[CaptCarrot]

I am embarking on a little project using an old Archimedes keyboard.

This uses a PS/2 style connector, but not PS/2 protocol...

In this case the pin-outs are as follows:

• Reset
• No Connection
• 0v
• 5v
• Serial Data In
• Serial Data Out

Apparently (this is UNCONFIRMED) - "The Archimedes keyboard interface appears to be 31.25 kBaud serial"

I was planning on making a plug up and hooking this thing up to the GPIO on my Raspberry Pi (with suitable voltage dividers to deal with the 5v/3.3v issue) or by connecting it to a DB9 and seeing what luck I get through RS232.

Then, thanks to this post and work done by Dave at Tynemouth Software, I thought I might also try the Teensy/ProMicro route.  (I have a ProMicro on order for another project anyway)

Can anyone suggest what would be the best way to read the key-presses either through the ProMicro or through RS232?

Also, the keyboard has a socket for a Quadrature Mouse (9 pin mini din), the signals from which are passed through the keyboard 6 pin mini din.  As the ProMicro HID is recognised as KeyBoard and Mouse I am hoping I can use whatever method you recommend above to map the mouse too.

[zambasdvd]

Hi to everyone,
I need some help with a custom dell at101w.
I removed the pcb and handwired my matrix and built the fw. Keyboard works fine but i need to ask 2 questions, if someone knows an answer please help me.
1. how to implement a backlight led to every switch? I know alps dont have space for leds but i will customize my backplate. Will i need a second teensy? what about power requirements? Will it handle all the leds? I dont need something fancy just a button to switch off or on all the leds at once.
2. I want to make an fn layer but i didnt quite understand how. Can someone write the code to my matrix? Say i want the ralt to be fn1 and up down to be volume up and down.
Thanks again
ps: sorry if this not the correct thread to ask this

[rossviper]

Hi guys,

I could do with a bit of hand holding. I have a 122 key terminal, with a jr45, this one in fact:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390990832981?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I have downloaded all the files etc, and flicked through the documents, and read around a bit. Will this board work?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400514883558?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Also will the only software i need be scaswr.bat ? I play to flash and use the board on windows?

Also, and sorry for another question, I'm having problems get hold of a suitable driver for taking out the bolts (5.5 hex holding the case together), or where i can get a suitable tool in the UK?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370980746343?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&var=640173578992&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Any input welcomed.

Many thanks Ross

[fohat.digs]

It is my understanding that the non-Teensy breakout boards are much harder to program than the Teensy, but I have never tried.

That nut driver should work properly, I prefer them. Otherwise, try to find a "long, thin-walled" 5.5mm or 7/32" socket.

[JPG]

The pro-micro will work. I can't compare to a teensy since I only used the pro-micro and never the teensy, but while not that easy to program, it's not hard either. In fact, once you know the steps, it's like 5 minutes.

[arakula]

I have a 122 key terminal, with a jr45, this one in fact:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390990832981?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Ouch. I hope that F16 key (F16, BTW, not F17; they didn't even get THAT right) isn't totally ruined. Looks really bad on the picture.

I have downloaded all the files etc, and flicked through the documents, and read around a bit. Will this board work?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400514883558?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Yes it should work with a Model M-122 terminal keyboard, except for the little fact that Soarer's original firmware doesn't handle the Pro Micro's on-board LEDs correctly. See my posts here and here (the second one being more relevant here) for a patched version for the Pro Micro (plus my little writeup a bit below these posts on how I got them up to a decent, easily programmable state, if you're interested in technical details).

[rossviper]

Thanks guys. Does anyone know of a good source of teensy boards, I cant seem to find one. I might go with that if I can find one, if the pro mirco is a bit harder.

Yeah the keyboard is not in great Nic, but it was only a five so can't ask for 2 much!

Thanks chaps

Ross

[Halvar]

I don't know a source in the UK. I got mine from Germany, and they ship to UK:

http://www.watterott.com/de/Teensy-v20-ATMEGA32U4

[mrfluffy]

Hiya Ross,

I too am the recipient of one of the 122 key terminal Model Ms off Ebay. Unfortunately, I couldn't get the keyboard to respond to my teensy at all, so have come to the conclusion that the control board is probably buggered. I've got the teensy working with the standard Model M that is my daily keyboard, so I think I'm going to strip it for parts. If you need any bits for that buggered F16 button, let me know and you can have them with pleasure.

If you could photo your controller board to show the jumpers on the edge of the control board, I'd be interested to see what your settings are.

Cheers

Tim

[ezrahilyer]

Hiya Ross,

I too am the recipient of one of the 122 key terminal Model Ms off Ebay. Unfortunately, I couldn't get the keyboard to respond to my teensy at all, so have come to the conclusion that the control board is probably buggered. I've got the teensy working with the standard Model M that is my daily keyboard, so I think I'm going to strip it for parts. If you need any bits for that buggered F16 button, let me know and you can have them with pleasure.

If you could photo your controller board to show the jumpers on the edge of the control board, I'd be interested to see what your settings are.

Cheers

Tim

If you are looking for a replacement M122 controller, I can help you out, I have a few extra good ones here.

[rossviper]

Hiya Ross,

I too am the recipient of one of the 122 key terminal Model Ms off Ebay. Unfortunately, I couldn't get the keyboard to respond to my teensy at all, so have come to the conclusion that the control board is probably buggered. I've got the teensy working with the standard Model M that is my daily keyboard, so I think I'm going to strip it for parts. If you need any bits for that buggered F16 button, let me know and you can have them with pleasure.

If you could photo your controller board to show the jumpers on the edge of the control board, I'd be interested to see what your settings are.

Cheers

Tim

If you are looking for a replacement M122 controller, I can help you out, I have a few extra good ones here.

Thanks Tim,

I've might well take you up on that offer, if I can get the boardworking. As soon as I get a suitable driver I'll take some pictures and let you know.


Thanks
Ross

[mrfluffy]

If you are looking for a replacement M122 controller, I can help you out, I have a few extra good ones here.

Thanks for the offer, let's see how Ross gets on with his keyboard first. I've got a feeling the jumpers on the controller are set to something arcane, which is making the board refuse to cooperate. I think the M122 is going to be a long term project, and needs a bolt mod doing as a bare minimum.

Tim

[rossviper]

I have a 122 key terminal, with a jr45, this one in fact:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390990832981?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Ouch. I hope that F16 key (F16, BTW, not F17; they didn't even get THAT right) isn't totally ruined. Looks really bad on the picture.

I have downloaded all the files etc, and flicked through the documents, and read around a bit. Will this board work?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400514883558?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Yes it should work with a Model M-122 terminal keyboard, except for the little fact that Soarer's original firmware doesn't handle the Pro Micro's on-board LEDs correctly. See my posts here and here (the second one being more relevant here) for a patched version for the Pro Micro (plus my little writeup a bit below these posts on how I got them up to a decent, easily programmable state, if you're interested in technical details).

Thanks for these links.

I think I'm going to give the Pro Micro a shot, it about 6GBP, v's 20 for the Teensy, given the keyboard might not work anyway, i might as well go cheap!!

Thaanks Guys, when I get all the bits and bobs I'll post back with how I got on.

Cheers
ross

[arakula]

I've got a feeling the jumpers on the controller are set to something arcane, which is making the board refuse to cooperate. I think the M122 is going to be a long term project, and needs a bolt mod doing as a bare minimum.

AFAIK, the jumpers are only used to set the keyboard ID that's reported back to the computer.
Soarer's Converter follows this logic:
"Ask the keyboard for its ID.
If the first part of the returned ID happens to be AB (hexadecimal) and the second part is not 85 (also hex), treat it as a "normal" AT / PS/2 keyboard using extended scan code set 2.
Otherwise, if an ID came back, treat it as sending scan code set 3 (= your average terminal keyboard).
If only an ACK came back, it's AT (i.e., 84 key, scan code set 2 without extensions).
If nothing at all came back, it's PC / XT."

hid_listen.exe can be used to find out what Soarer's Converter determined.

[mrfluffy]

Cool. I either got no ID, or garbage depending on where I put the jumpers. Voltage to the board was correct in all the right places, and triple checked the wiring, even transposing the data and clock lines to see if that helped.  Hid_listen just gave me a run of unbroken R06 codes, so after reading through Soarers excellent documentation, I came to the conclusion that the controller board was at fault.

[rossviper]

This does not bode well for me its taken me weeks to find a nut driver! 

[mrfluffy]

I just bought a standard one off Ebay and ground it back using a bench grinder. I think I'm probably in the minority of having a bad board (if indeed it it is faulty, operator error cannot be ruled out yet)

[Melvang]

So I got my XT working over USB.  All I had to do was load the right firmware onto the teensy, hook up the wires, plug it in and off I went.

The problem is, I want to change some of the keys around.  How do I go about doing this?  Fair warning, I am a software newbie.

[Halvar]

You essentially write a config file with your mappings and upload it to the teensy using Soarer's tools.

There's great documentation by Soarer in the firmware's download zip file on how to do that, as well as example config files. If you get stuck at some point, just ask here.

[fohat.digs]

So I got my XT working over USB.  All I had to do was load the right firmware onto the teensy, hook up the wires, plug it in and off I went.

The problem is, I want to change some of the keys around.  How do I go about doing this?  Fair warning, I am a software newbie.

In Soarer's thread (oh wait, that is this thread!) post #560 by wcass gives you a clean and simple method that works great.

In the original post, the documentation includes a spreadsheet list of all the keyboard codes.

[SpAmRaY]

So I got my XT working over USB.  All I had to do was load the right firmware onto the teensy, hook up the wires, plug it in and off I went.

The problem is, I want to change some of the keys around.  How do I go about doing this?  Fair warning, I am a software newbie.

In Soarer's thread (oh wait, that is this thread!) post #560 by wcass gives you a clean and simple method that works great.

In the original post, the documentation includes a spreadsheet list of all the keyboard codes.

Since I've found my way back to that post quite a few times here it is for those who don't want to find it.

I actually did this project about a month ago after I bought a 122 key model M off of ebay and it went perfectly. I honestly just have no clue how to remap it so I can make use of the extra keys. Could someone point me in the right direction?

it is actually quite easy. first, go to the DOCS folder and double-click on index.html. since you only need help re-mapping keys, go to the Config section and read the Command Reference. if you are starting with a 122 then you probably will only need to study/learn remapblock. you will also need to learn (or keep a cheat sheet handy) what the program expects you to name any keys you will be working with. you will find these in the Codes section. then open one or more of the .sc files in notepad and look at these as examples.

create your own sc file with a text editor. start with a comment line (line begins with #) that identifies what you are trying to do. add a line remapblock to start the remap block. list the keys you want to change and what you want to change each to. then close the remap block with the endblock command. save this file with a .sc extension.

Code: [Select]

# Billy's TSSK layout

remapblock
        F7     DELETE
        F8     END
        F9     PAGE_DOWN
        F10    LEFT
        F11    DOWN
        F12    RIGHT
        F13    F7
        F14    F8
        F15    F9
        F16    F10
        F17    F11
        F18    F12
        F19    INSERT
        F20    HOME
        F21    PAGE_UP
        F22    SCROLL_LOCK
        F23    UP
        F24    PAUSE
    FAKE_06    BACKSLASH
    FAKE_08    ESC
    FAKE_09    PRINTSCREEN
    FAKE_10    MEDIA_MEDIA_SELECT
    FAKE_11    MEDIA_PLAY_PAUSE
    FAKE_12    MEDIA_PREV_TRACK
    FAKE_13    MEDIA_NEXT_TRACK
    FAKE_14    MEDIA_VOLUME_DOWN
    FAKE_15    MEDIA_VOLUME_UP
    FAKE_16    APP
    FAKE_17    LGUI
endblock

open a dos prompt. navigate to your tools folder and drag&drop scas.exe to the command prompt, but don't run it yet. add a space to the end and then drag&drop your custom .sc file to the end of the command line - don't run it yet. add a space and then drag&drop the same .sc file - and then add a B to the end. now hit enter to run the command. this "compiles" your code. you will find it in the same folder as your SC file but with SCB as the file extension.

now that your custom file is compiled, you need to send that to the teensy. drag&drop scwr.exe into the command window, add a space, and then drag&drop your .SCB file to the end of the command line. hit enter to program.

test your newly remapped keys to verify that they are remapped.

[rossviper]

Great news!!,

I am typing this from a recently converted keyboard, please see attached photo, as unquestionable proof!!!!!.



As you can see I have it plugged in to a laptop in the lounge so i have not really tested it out for real, but all looks Ok in Aqua Key. Will need to do some work with the key mappings, but all in good time - is there a default for a 122 out there?

The whole thing only took me about an hour! I could not believe it!! I wasn't holding out much hope if Im honest. The pro micro, I ended up buying was a cheap clone, but was in the UK, so was about 7 quid, of the bay. I ordred in on the 8th, and it arrive to day. The nut drivers are still on the way, again from the UK. Because I don't yet have the nut drivers, i cant open it up, so no picture of the controller yet, bit I'll put them up when they come.

A few points:

I followed the excellent guide here http://hasbeardplaysgames.co.uk/2014/10/12/converting-an-ibm-model-m-terminal-keyboard/

Its worth noting that I had to plug the pro micro in to a USB 2 port, to get the driver to be installed by windows.


BTW, I assume I can use scaswr.bat even though the board is now wired up to the keyboard, right.

Tim, I will get the picture of the control as soon as the drivers come, I promise!!

Cheers guys
Ross
 

[Melvang]

I got my XT remapped.  Thanks a ton spamray.  Here is the layout for what I change.



Anything blank is still stock.  Not sure I need to work out a function layer. 

Strangely thought he hardest part about getting used to this keyboard is the fact that they F and J keys have nothing for homing on them.  No nubs, no dots, no dish, just nothing.  The biggest thing I love about this keyboard aside from the amazing feels is the fact that I unconsciously am hovering my wrists.  This is something I have not done with any other keyboard.

[arakula]

I am typing this from a recently converted keyboard, please see attached photo, as unquestionable proof!!!!!.

Nice to see the passive rebellion against Microsoft's urge to switch to a newer OS, BTW

I followed the excellent guide here

Nice writeup, just a bit wrong in minor details (Soarer recommended the Teensy 2.0, which is noticeably cheaper than the Teensy++ 2.0) ... and I'm one of those who cringe at the thought of ruining a perfectly working RJ45 keyboard cable when the alternative (6-pin flat cable and matching connector) is in the "nearly negligible" price category. But well, if there's no intention to ever undo the mod, it's OK, I presume.

I'm talking about the internal mod in the writeup, BTW - yours would have been possible to do with an RJ-45 socket and some short cables, but the same applies here - if there's no intention to ever undo the mod, it's OK, I presume.

Its worth noting that I had to plug the pro micro in to a USB 2 port, to get the driver to be installed by windows.

As opposed to ... what? USB 3, I presume? I've already heard that the ATmega32U4 has its problems with that, yes.

BTW, I assume I can use scaswr.bat even though the board is now wired up to the keyboard, right.

Yes, that should be the case. Once you got the firmware in place, scwr.exe (which is called inside scaswr.bat) talks directly to that. You don't even need to reboot the converter afterwards; just send a new layout and it's instantly available.

[runcom]

Does anybody know where to get a mini-usb mount panel for an SSK? I'd love to put the teensy inside my SSK but i want it to looks nice

[ezrahilyer]

Does anybody know where to get a mini-usb mount panel for an SSK? I'd love to put the teensy inside my SSK but i want it to looks nice

I have been using these: https://www.adafruit.com/products/936

They make the rear of the board look almost factory. You use a USB/B cable (a printer cable) to connect to the computer.

I have a guide that shows how you do it with a terminal board: http://straypoetry.com/ibm-model-m-keyboard/ the process is similar with a non-terminal except you have to de-solder the old connector and solder the wires directly to the bottom of the existing controller.

[runcom]

Does anybody know where to get a mini-usb mount panel for an SSK? I'd love to put the teensy inside my SSK but i want it to looks nice

I have been using these: https://www.adafruit.com/products/936

They make the rear of the board look almost factory. You use a USB/B cable (a printer cable) to connect to the computer.

I have a guide that shows how you do it with a terminal board: http://straypoetry.com/ibm-model-m-keyboard/ the process is similar with a non-terminal except you have to de-solder the old connector and solder the wires directly to the bottom of the existing controller.

Show Image

Interesting :) but I was looking for a mini-usb one as in this photos:

[ezrahilyer]

Does anybody know where to get a mini-usb mount panel for an SSK? I'd love to put the teensy inside my SSK but i want it to looks nice

I have been using these: https://www.adafruit.com/products/936

They make the rear of the board look almost factory. You use a USB/B cable (a printer cable) to connect to the computer.

I have a guide that shows how you do it with a terminal board: http://straypoetry.com/ibm-model-m-keyboard/ the process is similar with a non-terminal except you have to de-solder the old connector and solder the wires directly to the bottom of the existing controller.

Show Image

Interesting :) but I was looking for a mini-usb one as in this photos:

Show Image

If you do find a source for the mini usb I would be interested.

[runcom]

Does anybody know where to get a mini-usb mount panel for an SSK? I'd love to put the teensy inside my SSK but i want it to looks nice

I have been using these: https://www.adafruit.com/products/936

They make the rear of the board look almost factory. You use a USB/B cable (a printer cable) to connect to the computer.

I have a guide that shows how you do it with a terminal board: http://straypoetry.com/ibm-model-m-keyboard/ the process is similar with a non-terminal except you have to de-solder the old connector and solder the wires directly to the bottom of the existing controller.

Show Image

Interesting :) but I was looking for a mini-usb one as in this photos:

Show Image

If you do find a source for the mini usb I would be interested.

I'm not really sure that's a mini-usb btw...because the black piece is far more out than where should be, there are 2cm about at the end of the keyboard so that could easly be a USB-B as the one you linked, dunno

[kishy]

Not really an issue with Soarer's part of this, but an interesting observation...my very first original Teensy++ 2.0 from back in the day appears to have quit on me this past weekend. It just repeatedly connects/disconnects itself from the host computer, sometimes showing up under the device name Soarer gave it, sometimes as a generic HID, sometimes as an unknown device. Does not stay connected for long, can get one keystroke in sometimes before it "unplugs" again, and more recently it just isn't detected at all.

Said Teensy was actually second hand, I'm fairly sure I got it from another member before Soarer even made his project known. I do have to wonder how it failed...

Finally got around to troubleshooting this. Works again after a simple reflash.

[Melvang]

So if I want to change the keymap on my XT that I have already tweaked, do I use the default map to work from or do I need to use the already changed stuff?  Or would the easiest way be just to reflash with the default firmware and work back from that?

[rossviper]

Tim
@mrfluffy

Here is a picture of the jumpers, hope it helps:


Let me know if there is anything else you need?

Thanks
Ross

There are some more pictures here http://imgur.com/ygtOTNA,c7cfqi9,C0AB2z9,7SGWtTh,DYflj2K,R1OFUPg,Y0iojyz,NU1PBuA,jqn23vi,4gUDPB9#0

[rossviper]

BTW, whats the script with the earth(?) cable that run on to the space bar... is it an imporant part of the over all set up - its got a copper clip, but that just clips on to a plastic bit in the space bar?

Already bought the next broad to convert! What fun! )

THANKS SOARER!!!

[Westwall]

Hello. I'm brand new to the forums, I come seeking some assistance and would greatly appreciate any I recieve.

So, for the sake of context, I live in Argentina. I've also been longing for a mechanical keyboard for a very long time now.

So, on the Argentine version of Ebay, I found a (legit) company selling a terminal IBM Model M (Part No. 1390250, IBM Spanish 122 key). Price, 10USD. Price of all the other Model M's on the market... absolutely ridiculous. Anything with a cherry switch is as expensive as the Model M's. Of course, it's a terminal version. Apart from using a scan code that modern PCs don't understand so to say (as far as I was able to understand the matter), the keyboard uses a detachable SDL cable for the connection... and the board does not come with the appropriate cable. SDL cables are just outright not sold here, and import is out of the question due to the current (very draconic) legislation.

So, I've been trying to come up with a solution. Fashioning my own SDL cable obviously won't work, but I'm questioning the possibility of soldering off the SDL port itself, testing continuity (I don't have a multimeter, so if one of you happened to know where each contact in the port goes where on the board, I'd be very happy. I'm sure I could improvise with a spare LED, a battery and some wire once I've got the port out, though), and soldering the cut-up end of a USB/PS2/whatever-as-ong-as-five-wires cable directly onto the board. I'd add some sort of strain relief along the way. The USB cable would, of course, go to an atmega converter. Obviously, I'd like to know if this would even be a viable option. I have never soldered before, but I know how to do it properly in theory. Five contacts on the board and another five on the converter, shouldn't be hard at all.

Teensies are used for PS3 custom firmware downgrades (console piracy is big here), so the price for them has been artificially inflated to well over 100USD. I can get an Arduino Pro Micro for much, much less. It's based on the Atmega 32U4, so in theory this should work as well and in the exact same fashion (save for different pin-outs) as the Teensy. I just want to have that confirmed, also.

Lastly, I play games on my computer, and I know that the Model M is 2KRO. The overwhelming response on most places I've checked is that it's fine for almost all cases. I don't do anything particularly demanding, just some Battlefield, Osu!, and whatnot. I don't think I'll hit any sort of limitation, but if any of you have a say on this, I'd love to hear your opinion.

[mrfluffy]

Tim
@mrfluffy

Here is a picture of the jumpers, hope it helps:

Show Image

Let me know if there is anything else you need?

Thanks
Ross

There are some more pictures here http://imgur.com/ygtOTNA,c7cfqi9,C0AB2z9,7SGWtTh,DYflj2K,R1OFUPg,Y0iojyz,NU1PBuA,jqn23vi,4gUDPB9#0

Sweet! Changed my jumpers to match yours, but still no response from the board. Definitely looks like a dud. Ross,if you want any keys or caps to complete your keyboard, let me know, and you can have them with pleasure. This keyboard is going into the project pile.

[Parak]

So, I've been trying to come up with a solution. Fashioning my own SDL cable obviously won't work, but I'm questioning the possibility of soldering off the SDL port itself, testing continuity (I don't have a multimeter, so if one of you happened to know where each contact in the port goes where on the board, I'd be very happy. I'm sure I could improvise with a spare LED, a battery and some wire once I've got the port out, though), and soldering the cut-up end of a USB/PS2/whatever-as-ong-as-five-wires cable directly onto the board. I'd add some sort of strain relief along the way. The USB cable would, of course, go to an atmega converter. Obviously, I'd like to know if this would even be a viable option. I have never soldered before, but I know how to do it properly in theory. Five contacts on the board and another five on the converter, shouldn't be hard at all.

Odd. 122s with SDL ports that I know of are terminal emulators, which means that they do PS/2. Also, 1390250 should have been a 102 key.. well, if it is a terminal emulator, the pinout should be standard like here. You'd probably have to map the internal pins to the pcb, desolder the connector, then solder on some wires, hot glue/zip tie, etc.

Teensies are used for PS3 custom firmware downgrades (console piracy is big here), so the price for them has been artificially inflated to well over 100USD. I can get an Arduino Pro Micro for much, much less. It's based on the Atmega 32U4, so in theory this should work as well and in the exact same fashion (save for different pin-outs) as the Teensy. I just want to have that confirmed, also.

Correct, you can use this guide here.