[GB] the Moon - Custom Keyboard - Shipping

[LightningXI]

At a loss on how to program this PCB -- already tried what FactoryDefaults suggested, but not even the default keymap flashed properly onto it. Halp

[LightningXI]

So I've finally figured it out!

---

First of all, follow FactoryDefault's basic instructions here up until the BEGINNING of step #6 where they ask you to open tkg.io and select Kimera. Don't forget to install the Chrome TKG.io Add-on.

By having the Device Manager open and experimenting with pressing the Reset button in the underside of the PCB near the spacebar, I found out that it may not be necessary to use Zandig 2.3 to install the driver -- as it will automatically be ATM32u4DFU after you press the RESET button one or two times.

At this point, ensure that the Burn .eep file drop-down menu shows the ATM32u4DFU device. Otherwise, press the RESET button, wait, and refresh the tkg.io website until the device shows.


Continue following FactoryDefaults' instructions...

**Here, I made the silly mistake of not setting the Col Mapping from numbers 20 through 30. (see below)




For those using the regular bottom row (standard 1.25u modifiers and 6.25u spacebar), follow FactoryDefaults guide.

-------------------

For those trying to figure out the Winkeyless or 1u symmetrical blockers keymapping for the bottom row, use the following in Matrix Mapping.

Code: [Select]

["1,1",{x:1},"1,2","1,3","1,4","1,5",{x:0.5},"1,6","1,7","1,8","1,9",{x:0.5},"1,10","1,11","7,1","7,2",{x:0.25},"7,3","7,4","7,5"],
[{y:0.5},"2,1","2,2","2,3","2,4","2,5","2,6","2,7","2,8","2,9","2,10","2,11","7,6","7,7",{w:2},"7,8",{x:0.25},"7,9","7,10","7,11"],
[{w:1.5},"3,1","3,2","3,3","3,4","3,5","3,6","3,7","3,8","3,9","3,10","3,11","8,1","8,2",{w:1.5},"8,3",{x:0.25},"8,4","8,5","8,6"],
[{w:1.75},"4,1","4,2","4,3","4,4","4,5","4,6","4,7","4,8","4,9","4,10","4,11","8,7",{w:2.25},"8,8"],
[{w:2.25},"5,1","5,3","5,4","5,5","5,6","5,7","5,8","5,9","5,10","5,11","8,9",{w:2.75},"8,11",{x:1.25},"8,10"],
[{w:1.5},"6,1",{w:1.0},"6,2",{w:1.5},"6,3",{w:7.0},"6,4",{w:1.5},"6,6",{w:1.0},"6,7",{w:1.5},"6,8",{x:0.25},"6,9","6,10","6,11"]
Then, once you close the dialog box with the row/col/matrix mapping, under Layer0, this is the DEFAULT layer keymap for WKL style TKLs:

Code: [Select]

["Esc",{x:1},"F1","F2","F3","F4",{x:0.5},"F5","F6","F7","F8",{x:0.5},"F9","F10","F11","F12",{x:0.25},"PrtSc","Scroll Lock","Pause\nBreak"],
[{y:0.5},"~\n`","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=",{w:2},"Backspace",{x:0.25},"Insert","Home","PgUp"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"|\n\\",{x:0.25},"Delete","End","PgDn"],
[{w:1.75},"Caps Lock","A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:2.75},"rShift",{x:1.25},"↑"],
[{w:1.5},"LCtrl","Win",{w:1.5},"Alt",{a:7,w:7},"space",{a:4,w:1.5},"rAlt","rWin",{w:1.5},"rCtrl",{x:0.25},"←","↓","→"]
If you want to edit your layers accordingly, simply click on Help in the TKG.io site (don't open in new tab), and a window will pop up with information about your options for key configuration! You can use fn0, fn1, ..., to access layers beyond the default one.

For example, in my case, I substituted Caps Lock for LCtrl, as I like to use that position of Caps as Control key, and since I will be using a WKL top (1u blocker), I reprogrammed LCtrl to Win, because I will need a Winkey somewhere. I also replaced Scroll Lock for fn0, so I could access 1 layer below (Layer 1).


I hope this helps! 

[Puddsy]

well done mr. lightning

[LightningXI]

And voila! Mankind has found carbon on the Moon. I hope you enjoy the photos.   









------------------------------

But the reality is... after a while I really end up typing in Cherry profile once again, so here's the last shot I took:

[Kavik]

So I've finally figured it out!

---

First of all, follow FactoryDefault's basic instructions here up until the BEGINNING of step #6 where they ask you to open tkg.io and select Kimera. Don't forget to install the Chrome TKG.io Add-on.

By having the Device Manager open and experimenting with pressing the Reset button in the underside of the PCB near the spacebar, I found out that it may not be necessary to use Zandig 2.3 to install the driver -- as it will automatically be ATM32u4DFU after you press the RESET button one or two times.

At this point, ensure that the Burn .eep file drop-down menu shows the ATM32u4DFU device. Otherwise, press the RESET button, wait, and refresh the tkg.io website until the device shows.


Continue following FactoryDefaults' instructions...

**Here, I made the silly mistake of not setting the Col Mapping from numbers 20 through 30. (see below)

Show Image

For those using the regular bottom row (standard 1.25u modifiers and 6.25u spacebar), follow FactoryDefaults guide.

-------------------

For those trying to figure out the Winkeyless or 1u symmetrical blockers keymapping for the bottom row, use the following in Matrix Mapping.

Code: [Select]

["1,1",{x:1},"1,2","1,3","1,4","1,5",{x:0.5},"1,6","1,7","1,8","1,9",{x:0.5},"1,10","1,11","7,1","7,2",{x:0.25},"7,3","7,4","7,5"],
[{y:0.5},"2,1","2,2","2,3","2,4","2,5","2,6","2,7","2,8","2,9","2,10","2,11","7,6","7,7",{w:2},"7,8",{x:0.25},"7,9","7,10","7,11"],
[{w:1.5},"3,1","3,2","3,3","3,4","3,5","3,6","3,7","3,8","3,9","3,10","3,11","8,1","8,2",{w:1.5},"8,3",{x:0.25},"8,4","8,5","8,6"],
[{w:1.75},"4,1","4,2","4,3","4,4","4,5","4,6","4,7","4,8","4,9","4,10","4,11","8,7",{w:2.25},"8,8"],
[{w:2.25},"5,1","5,3","5,4","5,5","5,6","5,7","5,8","5,9","5,10","5,11","8,9",{w:2.75},"8,11",{x:1.25},"8,10"],
[{w:1.5},"6,1",{w:1.0},"6,2",{w:1.5},"6,3",{w:7.0},"6,4",{w:1.5},"6,6",{w:1.0},"6,7",{w:1.5},"6,8",{x:0.25},"6,9","6,10","6,11"]
Then, once you close the dialog box with the row/col/matrix mapping, under Layer0, this is the DEFAULT layer keymap for WKL style TKLs:

Code: [Select]

["Esc",{x:1},"F1","F2","F3","F4",{x:0.5},"F5","F6","F7","F8",{x:0.5},"F9","F10","F11","F12",{x:0.25},"PrtSc","Scroll Lock","Pause\nBreak"],
[{y:0.5},"~\n`","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=",{w:2},"Backspace",{x:0.25},"Insert","Home","PgUp"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"|\n\\",{x:0.25},"Delete","End","PgDn"],
[{w:1.75},"Caps Lock","A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:2.75},"rShift",{x:1.25},"↑"],
[{w:1.5},"LCtrl","Win",{w:1.5},"Alt",{a:7,w:7},"space",{a:4,w:1.5},"rAlt","rWin",{w:1.5},"rCtrl",{x:0.25},"←","↓","→"]
If you want to edit your layers accordingly, simply click on Help in the TKG.io site (don't open in new tab), and a window will pop up with information about your options for key configuration! You can use fn0, fn1, ..., to access layers beyond the default one.

For example, in my case, I substituted Caps Lock for LCtrl, as I like to use that position of Caps as Control key, and since I will be using a WKL top (1u blocker), I reprogrammed LCtrl to Win, because I will need a Winkey somewhere. I also replaced Scroll Lock for fn0, so I could access 1 layer below (Layer 1).


I hope this helps!  :thumb: ;D

I think this did the trick! Thank you! I guess the problem is that I was leaving the keys under the blockers out of the matrix; whereas, you left them intact but mapped them differently (except R-ALT). This worked on my spare PCB, so I'm going to try it on my built board.

Also, nice photos! Which bumpons did you get? I really need a set for mine.

[LightningXI]

So I've finally figured it out!

---

First of all, follow FactoryDefault's basic instructions here up until the BEGINNING of step #6 where they ask you to open tkg.io and select Kimera. Don't forget to install the Chrome TKG.io Add-on.

By having the Device Manager open and experimenting with pressing the Reset button in the underside of the PCB near the spacebar, I found out that it may not be necessary to use Zandig 2.3 to install the driver -- as it will automatically be ATM32u4DFU after you press the RESET button one or two times.

At this point, ensure that the Burn .eep file drop-down menu shows the ATM32u4DFU device. Otherwise, press the RESET button, wait, and refresh the tkg.io website until the device shows.


Continue following FactoryDefaults' instructions...

**Here, I made the silly mistake of not setting the Col Mapping from numbers 20 through 30. (see below)

Show Image

For those using the regular bottom row (standard 1.25u modifiers and 6.25u spacebar), follow FactoryDefaults guide.

-------------------

For those trying to figure out the Winkeyless or 1u symmetrical blockers keymapping for the bottom row, use the following in Matrix Mapping.

Code: [Select]

["1,1",{x:1},"1,2","1,3","1,4","1,5",{x:0.5},"1,6","1,7","1,8","1,9",{x:0.5},"1,10","1,11","7,1","7,2",{x:0.25},"7,3","7,4","7,5"],
[{y:0.5},"2,1","2,2","2,3","2,4","2,5","2,6","2,7","2,8","2,9","2,10","2,11","7,6","7,7",{w:2},"7,8",{x:0.25},"7,9","7,10","7,11"],
[{w:1.5},"3,1","3,2","3,3","3,4","3,5","3,6","3,7","3,8","3,9","3,10","3,11","8,1","8,2",{w:1.5},"8,3",{x:0.25},"8,4","8,5","8,6"],
[{w:1.75},"4,1","4,2","4,3","4,4","4,5","4,6","4,7","4,8","4,9","4,10","4,11","8,7",{w:2.25},"8,8"],
[{w:2.25},"5,1","5,3","5,4","5,5","5,6","5,7","5,8","5,9","5,10","5,11","8,9",{w:2.75},"8,11",{x:1.25},"8,10"],
[{w:1.5},"6,1",{w:1.0},"6,2",{w:1.5},"6,3",{w:7.0},"6,4",{w:1.5},"6,6",{w:1.0},"6,7",{w:1.5},"6,8",{x:0.25},"6,9","6,10","6,11"]
Then, once you close the dialog box with the row/col/matrix mapping, under Layer0, this is the DEFAULT layer keymap for WKL style TKLs:

Code: [Select]

["Esc",{x:1},"F1","F2","F3","F4",{x:0.5},"F5","F6","F7","F8",{x:0.5},"F9","F10","F11","F12",{x:0.25},"PrtSc","Scroll Lock","Pause\nBreak"],
[{y:0.5},"~\n`","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=",{w:2},"Backspace",{x:0.25},"Insert","Home","PgUp"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"|\n\\",{x:0.25},"Delete","End","PgDn"],
[{w:1.75},"Caps Lock","A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:2.75},"rShift",{x:1.25},"↑"],
[{w:1.5},"LCtrl","Win",{w:1.5},"Alt",{a:7,w:7},"space",{a:4,w:1.5},"rAlt","rWin",{w:1.5},"rCtrl",{x:0.25},"←","↓","→"]
If you want to edit your layers accordingly, simply click on Help in the TKG.io site (don't open in new tab), and a window will pop up with information about your options for key configuration! You can use fn0, fn1, ..., to access layers beyond the default one.

For example, in my case, I substituted Caps Lock for LCtrl, as I like to use that position of Caps as Control key, and since I will be using a WKL top (1u blocker), I reprogrammed LCtrl to Win, because I will need a Winkey somewhere. I also replaced Scroll Lock for fn0, so I could access 1 layer below (Layer 1).


I hope this helps!  :thumb: ;D

I think this did the trick! Thank you! I guess the problem is that I was leaving the keys under the blockers out of the matrix; whereas, you left them intact but mapped them differently (except R-ALT). This worked on my spare PCB, so I'm going to try it on my built board.

Also, nice photos! Which bumpons did you get? I really need a set for mine.

As for bumpons I just looked for 3m bumpons on eBay and got ones that were cheap and numerous! I personally prefer the small circular lumps over the flat ones.

Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk

[DillonHightower]

.

[pandemic123]

what are the screws for the enclosure? looking to get the new tools

[1905ChelseaBlues]

In case it is helpful to anyone, here is a default WKL Colemak layout that can be used on tkg.io:

Code: [Select]

["Esc",{x:1},"F1","F2","F3","F4",{x:0.5},"F5","F6","F7","F8",{x:0.5},"F9","F10","F11","F12",{x:0.25},"PrtSc","Scroll Lock","Pause\nBreak"],
[{y:0.5},"~\n`","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=",{w:2},"Backspace",{x:0.25},"Insert","Home","PgUp"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","F","P","G","J","L","U","Y",":\n;","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"|\n\\",{x:0.25},"Delete","End","PgDn"],
[{w:1.75},"Caps Lock","A","R","S","T","D","H","N","E","I","O","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","K","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:2.75},"rShift",{x:1.25},"↑"],
[{w:1.5},"LCtrl","Win",{w:1.5},"Alt",{a:7,w:7},"space",{a:4,w:1.5},"rAlt","rWin",{w:1.5},"rCtrl",{x:0.25},"←","↓","→"]
Thanks for the guides, Lightning and Factory!

[lzlzh035]

Hi zzyjayfree, any idea when would next batch happen?

[pandemic123]

Hey couple of notes from my build.

In the way that the daughter board is soldered in the previous examples, the wires actually get twisted pretty bad when you mount the keyboard since the orientation of the connector in that sample pic needs a 180 rotation to sit on the housing. it seems like at least to me, the daughter board wires should be flipped in order to solder it on in a way where the orientation allows it to sit flush on the housing without stressing the joints.

Also is anyone else getting crazy pinging? I'm using the brass plate over the PCB. The board pings like crazy.

Also using the software TKL layout on page 13, every key boards except bottom right window key which I assumed is actually working but is just matched to function key with the function layer being equal to the top layer? anyone else got this behavior?

Another software question, once you load a layout, to change it does that mean you need to put the board back into a loading state, i.e you have to basically reload firmware? after you load the keymap once, the chrome app no longer detects the board.

[LightningXI]

In the way that the daughter board is soldered in the previous examples, the wires actually get twisted pretty bad when you mount the keyboard since the orientation of the connector in that sample pic needs a 180 rotation to sit on the housing. it seems like at least to me, the daughter board wires should be flipped in order to solder it on in a way where the orientation allows it to sit flush on the housing without stressing the joints.

Also is anyone else getting crazy pinging? I'm using the brass plate over the PCB. The board pings like crazy.

Also using the software TKL layout on page 13, every key boards except bottom right window key which I assumed is actually working but is just matched to function key with the function layer being equal to the top layer? anyone else got this behavior?

Another software question, once you load a layout, to change it does that mean you need to put the board back into a loading state, i.e you have to basically reload firmware? after you load the keymap once, the chrome app no longer detects the board.

I didn't flip the wires, but I changed my wires altogether because the ones pre-soldered onto the daughterboard are not great quality.

I haven't gotten pinging thus far.

You can always remap the bottom right key you mention to something that is appropriate for you. The keymap codes are in the Help section of the website.

No. Once it 'burns' the eep, the keyboard was working for me. When the Chrome app detects the board, it's in "bootloader" state.

[rioc]

Hey couple of notes from my build.

In the way that the daughter board is soldered in the previous examples, the wires actually get twisted pretty bad when you mount the keyboard since the orientation of the connector in that sample pic needs a 180 rotation to sit on the housing. it seems like at least to me, the daughter board wires should be flipped in order to solder it on in a way where the orientation allows it to sit flush on the housing without stressing the joints.

Also is anyone else getting crazy pinging? I'm using the brass plate over the PCB. The board pings like crazy.

Also using the software TKL layout on page 13, every key boards except bottom right window key which I assumed is actually working but is just matched to function key with the function layer being equal to the top layer? anyone else got this behavior?

Another software question, once you load a layout, to change it does that mean you need to put the board back into a loading state, i.e you have to basically reload firmware? after you load the keymap once, the chrome app no longer detects the board.

check the posts above (page 15 for a better WKL layout), but yes, hit the reset button on the board to have it detected as atmega again.


haven't noticed too much pinging on my brass plate, but I'm using MX silent black. What switches did you use? (Or is the plate not screwed on to the top tight enough?)


as for the mini-USB daughter-board: did you solder the wires on between the Plate & PCB or on the underside of the PCB? (I've got it on the underside and after the case is screwed shut, it shouldn't be too bad for the joints. (except you wires are shorter than mine))

[zzyjayfree]

Second batch incoming

[pandemic123]

Hey couple of notes from my build.

In the way that the daughter board is soldered in the previous examples, the wires actually get twisted pretty bad when you mount the keyboard since the orientation of the connector in that sample pic needs a 180 rotation to sit on the housing. it seems like at least to me, the daughter board wires should be flipped in order to solder it on in a way where the orientation allows it to sit flush on the housing without stressing the joints.

Also is anyone else getting crazy pinging? I'm using the brass plate over the PCB. The board pings like crazy.

Also using the software TKL layout on page 13, every key boards except bottom right window key which I assumed is actually working but is just matched to function key with the function layer being equal to the top layer? anyone else got this behavior?

Another software question, once you load a layout, to change it does that mean you need to put the board back into a loading state, i.e you have to basically reload firmware? after you load the keymap once, the chrome app no longer detects the board.

check the posts above (page 15 for a better WKL layout), but yes, hit the reset button on the board to have it detected as atmega again.


haven't noticed too much pinging on my brass plate, but I'm using MX silent black. What switches did you use? (Or is the plate not screwed on to the top tight enough?)


as for the mini-USB daughter-board: did you solder the wires on between the Plate & PCB or on the underside of the PCB? (I've got it on the underside and after the case is screwed shut, it shouldn't be too bad for the joints. (except you wires are shorter than mine))

Isn't WKL win-keyless? mine is a standard TKL.

for the daughter board, underside, the wires are definitely twisted a bit if you use the picture as shown in page 13 but it should be fine, but if you transport your keyboard in a vehicle or stuff the vibrations would on those already stressed solder joints could lead to cracks

for the pinging, I did tighten it down, using 67g zealios.

that sucks to redo the layout you have to open it up and press reset? you would think for such an fancy enclosure, it would have a PCB with good SW.

[JDragon]

One of the PCBs I received has a defective enter key, due to what appears to be a switch pin hole drilled out way too large: https://imgur.com/a/sUkYd

The solder doesn’t really make good contact with the pad, which wasn’t all that large to begin with.

The other PCB I got also has this issue, but at least the key works. Heads up to everyone to check your PCB for this before getting to work.

[LightningXI]

One of the PCBs I received has a defective enter key, due to what appears to be a switch pin hole drilled out way too large: https://imgur.com/a/sUkYd

The solder doesn’t really make good contact with the pad, which wasn’t all that large to begin with.

The other PCB I got also has this issue, but at least the key works. Heads up to everyone to check your PCB for this before getting to work.

I noticed this as well but fortunately the PCB (first one) worked. I've still yet to test the second PCB.

[neralo]

Second batch incoming

Email refreshing intensifies.

[Jubileus]

How do I make the moon logo stick? I shouldn't have removed it to clean it in the first place.

[rioc]

How do I make the moon logo stick? I shouldn't have removed it to clean it in the first place.

you could try loctite metal epoxy... but then it's locked tight

[Jubileus]

How do I make the moon logo stick? I shouldn't have removed it to clean it in the first place.

you could try loctite metal epoxy... but then it's locked tight

I wouldn't want that! haha.
Though there seems to be a liquid applied, just have to know what it is.

[rioc]

How do I make the moon logo stick? I shouldn't have removed it to clean it in the first place.

you could try loctite metal epoxy... but then it's locked tight

I wouldn't want that! haha.
Though there seems to be a liquid applied, just have to know what it is.

I guess you could use a clear nail polish and use nail polish remover to losen it again later if needed

[EvoPlatypus]

giving this another try.

If someone has an extra PCB&Daughter-board (i will take the plate too if you want), I will buy it off of you. My PCB was DOA and the daughterboard MIA. i don't know when i am going to be able to get a replacement.

[vegs]

Finished building this for someone on here yesterday.

Have someone found a way to enter bootloader without using the reset switch? I'm sure there's some button combination I haven't found yet.

[Puddsy]

Have someone found a way to enter bootloader without using the reset switch? I'm sure there's some button combination I haven't found yet.

like any other TMK PCB, you can program it to an FN layer but i don't know if there's a standard combo for it

[chironex]

I have LEDs working (white, 820 ohm).  I had to set them in a specific order, LED1 to Caps Lock, LED2 to Scroll Lock, LED3 Active Low backlight, LED4 Active High backlight.  Setting Num Lock made a different key toggle ESC on and off, and any other order and the wrong key's light would toggle.

[JDragon]

giving this another try.

If someone has an extra PCB&Daughter-board (i will take the plate too if you want), I will buy it off of you. My PCB was DOA and the daughterboard MIA. i don't know when i am going to be able to get a replacement.

Did you get any info on replacements from zzyjayfree? I am facing the same issue of a dead PCB (but at least I have a daughterboard).

[metalliccharles]

Second batch incoming

[Helldrop]

I’m looking for extra carbon stripes. If someone has the additional parts, send me PM please.
Of course, I can swap my brass stripes for carbon ones.

[EvoPlatypus]

giving this another try.

If someone has an extra PCB&Daughter-board (i will take the plate too if you want), I will buy it off of you. My PCB was DOA and the daughterboard MIA. i don't know when i am going to be able to get a replacement.

Did you get any info on replacements from zzyjayfree? I am facing the same issue of a dead PCB (but at least I have a daughterboard).

Yes. Been waiting to hear back for a while. Just hoping.

[Undergroundflaw]

Any update for the second batch yet? Are the rest of the boards going to be on the second batch or is there going to be a third one? It's been quite a while since we heard anything, any sort of update would be nice.

[nathanchere]

One of the PCBs I received has a defective enter key, due to what appears to be a switch pin hole drilled out way too large: https://imgur.com/a/sUkYd

The solder doesn’t really make good contact with the pad, which wasn’t all that large to begin with.

The other PCB I got also has this issue, but at least the key works. Heads up to everyone to check your PCB for this before getting to work.

I have the same problem on the exact same key and also on Caps. I haven't soldered anything other than the daughterboard yet  because I'm still waiting for a full set of holtites to arrive but it does look like the drill hole on the Enter goes too far over, Caps looks like it might still work though.

[Butter]

Any update on replacement parts? Is it going to be send with second batch?

[zzyjayfree]

I'm back from the week-long training.. I have the second batch at my proxy and working on the shipping invoices. I'll have the invoices sent out soon and get to the replacement/questions. Sorry about the delay

[jlboi69]

I wonder if anyone's managed to remove the inlaid stripes. I might consider reanodizing them if possible.

[Darknight00z]

Have people received their shipping invoices?

[metalliccharles]

Have people received their shipping invoices?

JUST got mine, and paid

[breitling]

Shipping invoice paid!

[macclack]

Paid! 

[neralo]

whoooo this has been a long time coming! paid! Also zzjayfree, dropped you a PM.

[na7thana]

Does anyone know if there is a file for the plate to get it custom cut at a local store by any chance?

[jlboi69]

I think someone was asking above, but to reset the board into DFU, you can press Rshift + Lshift + Pause. Its a command built into TMK apparently.

[Darknight00z]

Does anyone know if there is a file for the plate to get it custom cut at a local store by any chance?

I would like to know too. I want to add switch top opening.


Secondly, I've sent you a pm zzyjayfree, its about my shipping invoice. Thanks!

[Undergroundflaw]

PM'd with address change, waiting for a response before paying invoice. Thanks!

[lzlzh035]

Hey I paid the invoice a couple of days ago. Any idea how soon I can get the tracking?

[na7thana]

Was finally able to put together the board but have this problem where every key works on the board except to the ones to the left of the ";" key doesn't work. Don't know what is going on with the PCB since it was working fine for an hour or two and when I came back had this issue. Any help on how to possibly fix it would be greatly appreciated!

[Photoelectric]

Was finally able to put together the board but have this problem where every key works on the board except to the ones to the left of the ";" key doesn't work. Don't know what is going on with the PCB since it was working fine for an hour or two and when I came back had this issue. Any help on how to possibly fix it would be greatly appreciated!

1. Are you using screw-in stabilizers, and if so, have you checked that the nut does not touch any traces?  If you are and there's interference with traces, use a spacer to isolate the nut from the back of the PCB.
2. If you're not using screw-in stabilizers, check that all the traces are good (i.e. no cut traces).

[na7thana]

Was finally able to put together the board but have this problem where every key works on the board except to the ones to the left of the ";" key doesn't work. Don't know what is going on with the PCB since it was working fine for an hour or two and when I came back had this issue. Any help on how to possibly fix it would be greatly appreciated!

1. Are you using screw-in stabilizers, and if so, have you checked that the nut does not touch any traces?  If you are and there's interference with traces, use a spacer to isolate the nut from the back of the PCB.
2. If you're not using screw-in stabilizers, check that all the traces are good (i.e. no cut traces).

1. I was using screw in stabilizers and had a washer between the back of PCB and the screw when I installed them. Just to test I removed the screws and still came up with the same issue,

2. All the traces are good as far as I can see with my eyes.

[Photoelectric]

I'd check the traces from the controller very carefully with a magnifying glass and that various SMD parts are soldered on well.  Some cuts or cracks can be very fine and maybe there's missing solder.  A multimeter could help too to check all the diodes.

[na7thana]

I'd check the traces from the controller very carefully with a magnifying glass and that various SMD parts are soldered on well.  Some cuts or cracks can be very fine and maybe there's missing solder.  A multimeter could help too to check all the diodes.

Alright I'll try that out later this week when I have time to see if all the diodes work and everything. Weird since it was working when I originally tested the board by shorting the pads and even after I soldered the board for an hour or 2 then suddenly stops working. Thank you for the advice and hopefully everything is in working order!