| Quantity | Description | Manufacturer part number |
| 1 | GH80-3000 PCB | |
| 1 | Atmel ATmega32u4 | ATMEGA32U4-AU |
| 1 | 16MHz crystal | X322516MOB4SI |
| 2 | 22pf capacitor | CL21C220JBANNNC |
| 117 | 1N4148 diode | 1N4148W (1N4148WS would also fit) |
| 2 | 22 Ohm resistor | 0805W8J0220T5E |
| 1 | 1 kOhm resistor | 0805W8F1001T5E |
| 3 | 1uF capacitor | CL21F105ZOFNNNE |
| 5 | 0.1uF capacitor | 0805F104M500NT |
| 1 | 16 pins USB type-C SMD connector | TYPE-C16PIN (https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/1912111437_SHOU-HAN-TYPE-C16PIN_C393939.pdf) |
Wow - that is one great project right there! :DThank you.
Did you assemble the PCB yourself?Designed and assembled myself. I paid $29.72 (plus shipping) for a batch of five PCBs at EasyEDA.
What was the cost of such PCB (if I may ask)?
Where did you print the PCB?
I paid $29.72 (plus shipping) for a batch of five PCBs at EasyEDA.
I was asked over a hundred euros for two PCBs here in Italy. Even with DHL shipping from China, the whole lot costed me less than that.I paid $29.72 (plus shipping) for a batch of five PCBs at EasyEDA.
Damn, that's incredible. When I ran a small batch at PCBwing, it was well over a hundred, and that was for smaller PCBs!
Will you be willing to sell me one of your PCBs?I'm sorry to turn you down but I'm not offering assembly services as it's dreadfully time consuming, besides shipping from Italy usually costs a small fortune, especially for such a large item.
Or sell them in future partially assembled (Atmega, diodes etc in place)?
I would be interested to purchase one and try assembling it myself :)
Will you be willing to sell me one of your PCBs?
Or sell them in future partially assembled (Atmega, diodes etc in place)?
I would be interested to purchase one and try assembling it myself :)
Thanks,
Dan
Designed and assembled myself. I paid $29.72 (plus shipping) for a batch of five PCBs at EasyEDA.
is g3000 a standard 104 layout? can i make a plate using preset 104 layout from kle?Not quite. The F-row gap is wider than, say for reference, a Filco and the case doesn't allow a full plate unless you modify it.
making the pcb thicker can make a huge difference (you can double the rigidity by going from 1.6mm to 2.0mm).I've checked the manufacturing costs with EasyEDA for a thicker PCB and I gotta say it's not worth. The price increase would be massive.
Would you make available a dampening material to support the pcb in the case?Frankly, I wouldn't know where to start but the project is opensource, so if anyone wants to organize a GB for this board, maybe they can add such feature.
Anyway this project seem to complicated for I've who needs to learn soldering. I can learn to solder switches, but the other bits seem too complicated.Everything but switches and LEDs indicators are SMD and I'm aware that could be tough for the average user, but many PCB factories offer assembly services.
I presume with a plate you need to either make some alterations to fit the plate along with the PCB or then you would need to make some heavier mods to the case itself?The latter. You need to modify both the plate and the case. This thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42063.0) should give you an idea how a plate for such cases is designed and, consequentially, what are the necessary modifications to make to your case.
I'm working on a plate for my 3000 and started wondering if I want to handwire it or use this instead.I've seen your thread and I'm totally supporting your idea, hoping that this PCB will ease your work with all the measurements.
I presume with a plate you need to either make some alterations to fit the plate along with the PCB or then you would need to make some heavier mods to the case itself?The latter. You need to modify both the plate and the case. This thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42063.0) should give you an idea how a plate for such cases is designed and, consequentially, what are the necessary modifications to make to your case.I'm working on a plate for my 3000 and started wondering if I want to handwire it or use this instead.I've seen your thread and I'm totally supporting your idea, hoping that this PCB will ease your work with all the measurements.
I find the 4-pad SMD crystals much more difficult to solder, and a standard 2-pin Through Hole type would have worked (and I think they are a bit cheaper too, but the crystal you linked is like $0.10 )It's fairly easy if you reflow with a soldering iron or, better yet, a hot air station. I know the board is gigantic but SMD crystal are immensely smaller than the TH ones and that's the reason I use them.
is there any way we can export it from easyeda? Do you have the gerbers available?Sure, press Gerber Output in the editor then you can either place the order on EasyEDA or download the Gerber.
Thanks again!Thanks to you for checking it out.
Does the PCB sit flush on the horizontal plastic spacers of the common G80 case, or do some SMD components interfere with that?SMD components are placed in between the standoffs so the PCB sits flush.
is it possible to add LEDs?Not without some re-work. I used all the available pins but theoretically you could use three SK6812 RGB LEDs for the indicators and free two MCU pins which you can then use for backlighting or underglow. Although I have no experience with RGB LEDs and have no clue wheter the power consumption is manageable on a full size board.
I'm not following you on the LED area but I appreciate you telling me about these differences. Looks like the holes won't overlap any trace so I can add them right away. I just need the diameter and the positions of them. Gotta find a modern 3000 case then.
Thanks ojrask.
So it's indeed supposed to be mounted into the top half of the case?It will be clamped between the two halves. Just like the stock PCB.
No stability/flex/kerplunking around issues, or would I need to apply some padding to the rear side of the PCB to ensure a snug, friction mount fit in addition to the 4 screws?Surely it's as sturdy as a keyboard with a plate, but overall it's solid.
Will be my first time soldering SMDWith the proper tools it's gonna be easy.
Watch some Youtube videos. Also there are practice boards worth, amazon as just one example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y20JYTM
Watch some Youtube videos. Also there are practice boards worth, amazon as just one example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y20JYTM
I'm in theory familiar with the process, just haven't personally done it. Thanks for the hint though! This one Youtube vid seemed particularly thorough and the guy is entertaining:
<snip>
Edit: Just to make sure I'm not being an idiot, I can solder the board including the MCU and then just plug it in and flash like I would do with a retail PCB or Pro Micro, right? Or would I need specialized hardware/additional procedure to get QMK working with this?
I can solder the board including the MCU and then just plug it in and flash like I would do with a retail PCB or Pro Micro, right?Right.
Hey thanks for sharing, really useful. I always thought you'd need some super specific soldering irons and stuff to do surface mount stuff, but it seems that you can use a heated hammer to do it as well. :DD
I can solder the board including the MCU and then just plug it in and flash like I would do with a retail PCB or Pro Micro, right?Right.
Gonna share pics of the board with you when it's done!Please do. Enjoy.
LCSC are currently out of stock of 1k resistors 0805W8F1001T5E and 100nF capacitors 0805F104M500NT with lead times of at least 2 months.I added a BOM for ease but any 1K 0805 resistor and 100nF 0805 capacitors would do.
LCSC are currently out of stock of 1k resistors 0805W8F1001T5E and 100nF capacitors 0805F104M500NT with lead times of at least 2 months.I added a BOM for ease but any 1K 0805 resistor and 100nF 0805 capacitors would do.
If you haven't placed your order yet, you can buy, among many others, these resistors (https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Chip-Resistor-Surface-Mount-UniOhm_1KR-1001-1_C17513.html) and these capacitors (http://Multilayer-Ceramic-Capacitors-MLCC-SMD-SMT_SAMSUNG_CL21F104ZBCNNNC_100nF-104-80-20-50V_C1760.html).
Sorry if it was misleading.
JLCPCB are ridiculous. I placed the order in the evening of March 23rd and it arrived on Wednesday. That's 4 days from China, including manufacturing and shipping for a total of 42$ for 5 PCBs delivered! Everything was packaged professionally and arrived in good condition as far as I can tell. Looks as well-made as any mass-produced PCB I've seen so far.They have improved then. Usually four days was the manufacturing time alone and then they shipped. Nonetheless one would receive PCBs within one week, or so, from payment.
Unfortunately some muppet with the German customs office decided it'd be appropriate to charge 20€ customs on a 30$ shipment (the invoice wasn't accessible without opening the foil wrapping and there was no declaration of value on the outside, so I assume they estimated it after X-Raying and going like "Whoa this is one huge chunk of Elektronik! Verboten!" or something). I'll look into getting some of that back.Es tut mir leid. Unless they removed the option, you could ask them for the declared value of goods at the checkout. I usually go for USD 20,00 and haven't paid customs duties ever.
Now to wait for the rest of the componentsFor future memory, you can order components at LCSC (http://www.lcsc.com/) and have them shipped along with your PCB for free (meaning that you pay solely for the PCB shipment).
pngu, since you are also in Germany are you interested in selling two PCBs from your order? I do not need 5 PCBs now and would rather not have them lying around.
There is an issue with the parts numbers in your post, you list both 22Ohm Resistors and 22pF capacitors with the same numbers.Bad bad me, the part number is correct for capacitors, hopefully no one is short on 22 ohm resistors.
Hey pngu,I might buy some pcb's soon and I obviously don't need 5 either. Do you want two of them, unassembled?
I meant only the raw PCBS. I didn't think you'd interested in selling full boards :)
I only want to make two and buy the parts for two as thats really all I need right now and if I had 5 PCBs I would feel bad not to finish them all.
For now I've gathered some G81-3000 To scavenge for cases and keycaps. I am just not sure yet if I want to try and also add a plate.
Giorgio, I would buy at least two but I do not want to handle a GB since I am new to this community.
As some people have been asking I'd like to plug myself in here and note that I have 3 assembled PCBs for sale. You can PM me for a link or search r/mechmarket yourselves. If it's inappropriate to post this, let me know and I'll delete this post.
@TalkingTree: This is a dumb question, sorry, but I can choose resistors for the LEDs by plugging their color and 5V into one of those online calculators, right? I need to find a WKL black case, once that's done I can build one of these beauties and share pics :)
What do you mean by assembled? I don't know how to solder - yet - so I can probably just solder the switches by myself.
I can choose resistors for the LEDs by plugging their color and 5V into one of those online calculators, right?Those calculators, in my experience, give you the maximum value for the LED not to burn out immediately, in other words, they end up being blinding.
What do you mean by assembled? I don't know how to solder - yet - so I can probably just solder the switches by myself.
Hey Giorgio,
assembled means it has all the SMD components installed and just needs switches to become a keyboard. You'd need to solder 3 resistors and LEDs too if you want indicators.
Those calculators, in my experience, give you the maximum value for the LED not to burn out immediately, in other words, they end up being blinding.
What colours are you using?
what's your asking price for the pcb, plus soldering for 3 resistors and leds?
I wanted to use white and have 22Ohm and 1kOhm resistors at hand, I'm pretty sure they're too little and too much respectively,White LEDs and 1 kOhm resistors might work.
I got a few G80/G81 cases in preparation but most of them won't fit as they have bigger alignment poles.I have a winkey case and the board fits. Could you please show some pictures?
So I am assuming these pcbs do only fit older winkeyless cases.
I think the cases could be modified to fit.Perhaps so but you got to make sure the board doesn't slide around.
unless I find an older g80 case in black this will be my only option.Could you please show me a picture of the case with the PCB removed? Thanks.
Just assembled the kit I bought from pngu with og keycapsThat's a really nice case and I love the coiled cable.
Just built mine as well, but there seems to be a little problem regarding the bottom row.I've doublechecked the source and I've found no issue whatsoever, furthermore all the boards I've put together are winkeyless and they are fine.
As you can see, the alt key is a little misplaced.
Just built mine as well, but there seems to be a little problem regarding the bottom row.I've doublechecked the source and I've found no issue whatsoever, furthermore all the boards I've put together are winkeyless and they are fine.
As you can see, the alt key is a little misplaced.
Make sure the switch is in its correct position, see if there's any gap between the bottom of the switch and the PCB.
Keep me posted.
Looks like there's no room between the switch and the PCB. Fortunately there is still room between the two keys so the keycaps don't hit. Just wanted to let you know about it :)Yep, thanks for sharing. I'll triple check anyway.
Still can't get it working, Tried 5v leds as well checked polarity so flat side faces squared pad and flat led print also tried using jumper wire instead of resistor. Help :-XI had to put mine in the other way - apparently the silkscreen is wrong.
Still can't get it working, Tried 5v leds as well checked polarity so flat side faces squared pad and flat led print also tried using jumper wire instead of resistor. Help :-XI had to put mine in the other way - apparently the silkscreen is wrong.
I had to put mine in the other way - apparently the silkscreen is wrong.
Will try that, thanks!
Edit: It works now! Thanks!
Still can't get it working, Tried 5v leds as well checked polarity so flat side faces squared pad and flat led print also tried using jumper wire instead of resistor. Help :-XI had to put mine in the other way - apparently the silkscreen is wrong.
Will try that, thanks!
Edit: It works now! Thanks!
Will try that, thanks!
Edit: It works now! Thanks!
Just built mine as well, but there seems to be a little problem regarding the bottom row.I've doublechecked the source and I've found no issue whatsoever, furthermore all the boards I've put together are winkeyless and they are fine.
As you can see, the alt key is a little misplaced.
Make sure the switch is in its correct position, see if there's any gap between the bottom of the switch and the PCB.
Keep me posted.
a lot of switches are off by at least 5 mils.I don't have the spreadsheet handy but 5 mils should fall within the tolerance. I'll go over the whole PCB as soon as I have some spare time.
I looked into the alignment issue with spacebar and left alt. It can be fixed with the following:
Yes, that's exactly what I meant. Also, you'll want to use a plate mount switch and bend the pins a bit so everything can line up. Thanks for taking these pictures, my phone isn't good enough to do it.
Hello, is the pcb fixed? I've seen that someone reported a number of errors on the layout (bottom row but not only that).
Yes, that's exactly what I meant. Also, you'll want to use a plate mount switch and bend the pins a bit so everything can line up. Thanks for taking these pictures, my phone isn't good enough to do it.
Awesome, good to hear - I fried two boards somehow, which connected to the PC & worked originally, but after removing overnight, stopped working! I can't figure it out as everything was soldered well (I actually surprised myself) so I'm assuming ESD or something fried the atmega32u4... funny thing is, on my third account, I accidentally removed a pad and had to jump the connection & this one is working perfectly :))
Only issue I'm having at the moment is that the NUMLOCK LED indicator isn't as bright as the other two indicator LED's when programmed with QMK, but when programmed with EasyAVR they're all fine - anyone else run into this issue?Hello, is the pcb fixed? I've seen that someone reported a number of errors on the layout (bottom row but not only that).
Only issue I've come into is the bottom row alignment (& probably my own separate issue above).
Just built mine as well, but there seems to be a little problem regarding the bottom row.I've doublechecked the source and I've found no issue whatsoever, furthermore all the boards I've put together are winkeyless and they are fine.
As you can see, the alt key is a little misplaced.
Make sure the switch is in its correct position, see if there's any gap between the bottom of the switch and the PCB.
Keep me posted.
I took it a bit further and exported the gerbers into kicad, where I checked the placement of the switches by placing my own footprints over them in the exact same place using a 10mil grid since that seems to be what you're using. What I found is that the 1.5u key next to the 7u spacebar is shifted so far to the left that it overlaps the 7u footprint.
[attachimg=1]
Not only that, but a lot of switches are off by at least 5 mils. The switch spacing is 750 mil (=19,05mm), right? The Esc key is on X = 340, so the F5 key should be on X = 340+(6.5*750) = 5215. But it's on X = 5210. And there are more switches with the same problem.
thanks, I meant the post quoted below
Here's my finished board, in a modern G80 case with OG Cherry Dyesubs (& ePBT 9009 Win/FN):
(Attachment Link)
Needed to do a little modification to the case to make it fit (saw 3 plastic posts off), but otherwise, it fits perfectly.
Numpad LED issue still persists on QMK though - is there any way to change the brightness of the LED's within your config.c etc files?
That looks glorious. I'm not sure if TalkingTree provided the option to change LED brightness, but you could solder in a higher value resistor.
they're all equally as bright with EasyAVR, but not with QMK.
they're all equally as bright with EasyAVR, but not with QMK.
Well that sounds more like a software issue then. I built mine but am still waiting for resistors, the ones I ordered never showed up so I ordered some more from a different store:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/MmhLNrc.jpg)
OG doubleshots and retooled blacks in a ~1986 G80-1K case. Some of the PCB mount switches were a VERY tight fit and aren't seated properly, I'll need to re-do those.
Another question: I got firmware on it and it is recognized as a HID Keyboard Device, but it outputs nothing when I short out the appropriate pads.
I think the problem might be the firmware, the clock crystal, or I may have damaged the ATmega32u4 during my poor soldering attempts.
I'm sure it was my soldering, I damaged the board and/or processor. Oh well, now I have an excuse to get a hot air station.Another question: I got firmware on it and it is recognized as a HID Keyboard Device, but it outputs nothing when I short out the appropriate pads.
I think the problem might be the firmware, the clock crystal, or I may have damaged the ATmega32u4 during my poor soldering attempts.
Did you solder on diodes? And did you solder them the correct way? If the crystal was damaged it wouldn't work at all.
Anyone experiencing problems with using reset hotkeys in QMK/EasyAVR? I have to short manually or else it just exits bootloader mode in 1 second.have you tried flash qmk-dfu bootloader?
v1.1: Replaced USB mini with Type-C; fixed many misalignments. This should address every report posted so far.Hi, do you happen to have 1-2 boards of the new versions for sale?
Hi, do you happen to have 1-2 boards of the new versions for sale?I don't, sorry.
What would be the most cost effective way to get a small number (say 3) made?I've read JLCPCB offers assembly for boards with green solder masks. If you do that, keep in mind that the values for C1 and C2 are not declared as those would depend on the chosen crystal.
I guess I'd need to learn SMD soldering first, but I was wondering if there was a recommended PCB manufacturer for stuff like this.
What would be the most cost effective way to get a small number (say 3) made?I've read JLCPCB offers assembly for boards with green solder masks. If you do that, keep in mind that the values for C1 and C2 are not declared as those would depend on the chosen crystal.
I guess I'd need to learn SMD soldering first, but I was wondering if there was a recommended PCB manufacturer for stuff like this.
So they'd do the SMD components too?SMD alone if I got it right. You can then solder switches on your own.
the old version will work fine as well i guess.It will aside from the standard bottom row, as the winkeyless is not affected. Every other misalignment was within tolerance anyway.
I'd be interested one if people arrange a GB.Interested also.
I thought about just dragging that trace up like you didThat and you then have to rebuild the copper layer otherwise traces and solder masks won't match.
Also how would I go about choosing and denoting a crystal and values for resistors C1 and C2?Theoretically you should check the crystal datasheet and do your math by also taking the length of traces into account. In my experience USB tends to be very forgiving so I've never had problems with different capacitors pair on the same crystal, as long as C1 and C2 have the same value. Anything between 18pf and 22pf had worked flawlessly so far.
How do I denote the crystal and resistors when I submit the PCB to JLCPCB?You mean capacitors. You should edit the source and assign a value to them so they know what to solder. Preferably, you want to use LSCS part numbers.
Woops :-[16 MHz is mandatory. By the way, I had already put a crystal and capacitors in the BOM list so you should be ready to go.
What clock rating should be used? (If this is explained elsewhere I'm truly sorry)
I'm looking to get some of these made and shippied to germany, but shipping is just as much as the pcbs themselves even before tax.
I Also fiddled around with smt assembly, but somehow the components don't align (identical misplacement within each component type) and i don't know how to "re-assign a correct 0 orentation package" which should be the definitive fix for the issue.
Is anyone interested in a blank pcb + components from lcsc? I might be able to assemble a few boards as well as i recently acquired a hot air soldering station.
Even better would be, if anyone could help me modify the project to make use of JLCPCBs (more or less - but advertised as) free smt assembly service!
I'm from germany, so at least the logistical part of this would be limited to the EU.
I'm looking to get some of these made and shippied to germany, but shipping is just as much as the pcbs themselves even before tax.
I Also fiddled around with smt assembly, but somehow the components don't align (identical misplacement within each component type) and i don't know how to "re-assign a correct 0 orentation package" which should be the definitive fix for the issue.
Is anyone interested in a blank pcb + components from lcsc? I might be able to assemble a few boards as well as i recently acquired a hot air soldering station.
Even better would be, if anyone could help me modify the project to make use of JLCPCBs (more or less - but advertised as) free smt assembly service!
I'm from germany, so at least the logistical part of this would be limited to the EU.
does capacitor orientation matter?Only if they are electrolytic and on this board they are not.
So are the crystal, diodes, and ATMEGA the only components that require a specific orientation? Is it fair to assume that all the other components aren't polar?does capacitor orientation matter?Only if they are electrolytic and on this board they are not.
So are the crystal, diodes, and ATMEGA the only components that require a specific orientation? Is it fair to assume that all the other components aren't polar?Technically the crystal isn't, you could turn it 180° without a problem.
It looks like every part except for the USB C connector is supported for SMT assembly, so I guess I'll have to attach those myself.The USB type C connector has through hole mounting but, if you look closer, you'll notice the connection pins are actually SMD.
Would it be alright if I ran a group buy for this board (after I order a set and can confirm that they work?)License is CC-BY 3.0. You can even sell it for your own profit. You just have to share any modification you make, if you then sell the board.
I finally go to place an order and there is an inventory shortage of the ATMEGA32U4Try LCSC.com
Guess I'll have to wait to place an order until they restock.
So uh... JLCPCB decided the diode footprints were wrongWhy on God's green earth?
so they... decided to flip the diodes?That's guaranteed not to work.
If the line on the diode is negativeIt is.
If the line on the diode is negativeIt is.
My university touch on it in physics, but success (and sanity) in this hobby requires a bit more than being able to work a soldering iron.My university taught me a whole different set of things, and I still managed to make some working boards. Anyone can succeed.
Hey @Rayndalf thanks for putting in the legwork here. I'd be interested in getting involved in a potential groupbuy by designing a vectorgraphic to put on the back of the board. Maybe something cherry (company) themed.;) I didn't do anything except ask a bunch of question and still almost screw my order up.
I just updated the current revision with an increased center hole diameter in the footprint.
the 2 smaller PCB mount holes that were small.Spec sheet states they should be 0.059 in +/- 0.002. Mine are 0.06 in.
I think it was either a mistake I made (scaling the submitted PCB?) or a problem of JLCPCB's end.the 2 smaller PCB mount holes that were small.Spec sheet states they should be 0.059 in +/- 0.002. Mine are 0.06 in.
I assume the PCBs you received snugly held PCB mounted switches (but wasn't a thumb breaker).Indeed. The center hole what a bit tight but not painful to deal with at all. The connection holes were just fine.
JLCPCB lists the dimensions as manufactured as 436.7 mm* 133.1 mm. Is that consistent with the order you had fullfilled?Should be appropriate.
JLCPCB lists the dimensions as manufactured as 436.7 mm* 133.1 mm. Is that consistent with the order you had fullfilled?Should be appropriate.
I have an MY8300 and I really want to get a few of these pcbs.Mind the different layout. The MY8300 has two extra top rows and this PCB doesn't.
Hi allJLCPCB only need a Gerber, a Pick and Place file, and a Bill of Materials.
A redditor put me on to this thread. I have an MY8300 and I really want to get a few of these pcbs. I tried downloading the EASYEDA gerber file and the bom and pick and place. Most of the pick and place stuff wasn't ready to be manufactured. Has anyone got a link on how order one of these PCBS with the pick and place done?
Or just to buy a few of these pcbs populated apart from the the switches?
I can solder switches but smd looks scary. :)
Also, has any one connected two pcbs together as my MY8300 has another double row at the top.
Thanks in advance all
Thanks for the corrected file.Hi allJLCPCB only need a Gerber, a Pick and Place file, and a Bill of Materials.
A redditor put me on to this thread. I have an MY8300 and I really want to get a few of these pcbs. I tried downloading the EASYEDA gerber file and the bom and pick and place. Most of the pick and place stuff wasn't ready to be manufactured. Has anyone got a link on how order one of these PCBS with the pick and place done?
Or just to buy a few of these pcbs populated apart from the the switches?
I can solder switches but smd looks scary. :)
Also, has any one connected two pcbs together as my MY8300 has another double row at the top.
Thanks in advance all
You can download the BOM from here https://easyeda.com/farmakon/GH80_3000-4f3cee521afd4be3858c4b5cc3b76f9e then open the EasyEDA file "in the editor"
Once you have that file open in EasyEDA you can go to File - Generate PCB Fabrication File(Gerber) to create a zipped Gerber file and generate the Pick and Place using the File - Export Pick and Place File. I found the diodes where showing up incorrectly when I loaded it into JLCPCB. I modified the orientation of the diodes (Pick and Place files are just a table you can edit inExcelLibreOffice Calc, which properly interprets the file as a table)... but wrong way (I rotated them 90 degrees, but upside down).
I will try to fix my Pick and Place File (with respect to the corrections made by JLCPCB) and upload it here, but JLCPCB was able to interpret my (wrong) Pick and Place file, make corrections the needed corrections, and manufacture at least one working board (I hardwired one, but I'm waiting on USB C connectors, the only component other than switches and lock light LEDs that JLCPCB didn't attach).
Once I get those connectors I'll have 2 extra PCBs if you'd rather go that route.
I used this BOM file, I think it's the one located at the first EasyEDA page, but it might be the one in the EasyEDA editor instead (I'm not sure, but it worked). The boards I received have everything attached except the USB C socket, LEDs, and switches.Thanks for the corrected file.Hi allJLCPCB only need a Gerber, a Pick and Place file, and a Bill of Materials.
A redditor put me on to this thread. I have an MY8300 and I really want to get a few of these pcbs. I tried downloading the EASYEDA gerber file and the bom and pick and place. Most of the pick and place stuff wasn't ready to be manufactured. Has anyone got a link on how order one of these PCBS with the pick and place done?
Or just to buy a few of these pcbs populated apart from the the switches?
I can solder switches but smd looks scary. :)
Also, has any one connected two pcbs together as my MY8300 has another double row at the top.
Thanks in advance all
You can download the BOM from here https://easyeda.com/farmakon/GH80_3000-4f3cee521afd4be3858c4b5cc3b76f9e then open the EasyEDA file "in the editor"
Once you have that file open in EasyEDA you can go to File - Generate PCB Fabrication File(Gerber) to create a zipped Gerber file and generate the Pick and Place using the File - Export Pick and Place File. I found the diodes where showing up incorrectly when I loaded it into JLCPCB. I modified the orientation of the diodes (Pick and Place files are just a table you can edit inExcelLibreOffice Calc, which properly interprets the file as a table)... but wrong way (I rotated them 90 degrees, but upside down).
I will try to fix my Pick and Place File (with respect to the corrections made by JLCPCB) and upload it here, but JLCPCB was able to interpret my (wrong) Pick and Place file, make corrections the needed corrections, and manufacture at least one working board (I hardwired one, but I'm waiting on USB C connectors, the only component other than switches and lock light LEDs that JLCPCB didn't attach).
Once I get those connectors I'll have 2 extra PCBs if you'd rather go that route.
I must be going wrong with the BOM file it doesnt include things like the processor or the diodes :
D1,D2,D3,D4,D5,D6,D7,D8,D9,D10,D11,D12,D13,D14,D15,D16,D17,D18,D19,D20,D21,D22,D23,D24,D25,D26,D27,D28,D29,D30,D31,D32,D33,D34,D35,D36,D37,D38,D39,D40,D4...
NO
SOD-123
No part selected
117
---
Would your boards have usb c and processor etc soldered on?
I have just soldered diodes and switches ok but my soldering skills are pretty sketchy.
How much would your boards cost?I'm still waiting on USB C connectors :'(. I currently have a couple left though. They'd be $25 a piece + shipping flashed and ready to go.
How much would your boards cost?I'm still waiting on USB C connectors :'(. I currently have a couple left though. They'd be $25 a piece + shipping flashed and ready to go.
JLCPCB is pretty much idiot proof (by some miracle even I figured it out), so I'd totally recommend going that route if you don't mind getting some extras.
You can get the USB C plug here https://lcsc.com/product-detail/USB-Connectors_SHOU-HAN-TYPE-C16PIN_C393939.htmlHow much would your boards cost?I'm still waiting on USB C connectors :'(. I currently have a couple left though. They'd be $25 a piece + shipping flashed and ready to go.
JLCPCB is pretty much idiot proof (by some miracle even I figured it out), so I'd totally recommend going that route if you don't mind getting some extras.
I have invented a bigger idiot. Possibly its just because parts are out of stock. I think I am nearly there but I am missing too many pieces. I don't even know what the usb part is
7 USB P1 HDR-5X1/2.0 1
It doesnt seem detailed enough and nothing comes up on google. Nothing comes up on JLCPB either. Maybe I might be better off getting your ones. I am in Australia so I dont know what the shipping would be like.
7 USB P1 HDR-5X1/2.0 1That's the USB Mini female connector which is obsolete since I replaced it with the USB type-C socket. You may skip that.
v1.1: Replaced USB mini with Type-C; fixed many misalignments. This should address every report posted so far.
Sorry, I won't. I don't wanna fork the project myself and I'd rather enhance the PCB with the latest technology (granted that I can manage that).v1.1: Replaced USB mini with Type-C; fixed many misalignments. This should address every report posted so far.
Is it possible to upload v1.1 but with USB mini instead of Type-C?
Speaking of which, are either of the hardwire cable points compatible with a JST daughterboard? A USB C connector that remains hidden in a chunky plastic case is fine, but I'm wondering if I could cut the case slightly and mount a daughterboard for a detachable cable.Sorry, I won't. I don't wanna fork the project myself and I'd rather enhance the PCB with the latest technology (granted that I can manage that).v1.1: Replaced USB mini with Type-C; fixed many misalignments. This should address every report posted so far.
Is it possible to upload v1.1 but with USB mini instead of Type-C?
are either of the hardwire cable points compatible with a JST daughterboard?There's a header for that purpose. In other words, yes.
How much would your boards cost?I'm still waiting on USB C connectors :'(. I currently have a couple left though. They'd be $25 a piece + shipping flashed and ready to go.
JLCPCB is pretty much idiot proof (by some miracle even I figured it out), so I'd totally recommend going that route if you don't mind getting some extras.
Feel free to PM me. The C connectors are on their way (They've been in the US since the 16th, so I think they'll be arriving any day now).How much would your boards cost?I'm still waiting on USB C connectors :'(. I currently have a couple left though. They'd be $25 a piece + shipping flashed and ready to go.
JLCPCB is pretty much idiot proof (by some miracle even I figured it out), so I'd totally recommend going that route if you don't mind getting some extras.
I have waited ages to see if stuff comes back in stock please can I buy some boards from you? I will then just get the USB C connector. How do you want to go about it?
I can safely say the switch alignment holes are painfully tightI looked closer into the matter and found out that they were actually smaller than spec. I'm fixing it soon.
any idea what would have been damaged if I shorted the connector?Likely none.
What do you think I would need to replace to get it working again?Depends on how bad the connector is now. Can you show a picture?
That connector looks in a very bad shape on the sides.
Would the hardwire point work with a JST daughter board or something?Definetely. Even a different connector. That's why I put a breakout there.
Is there a specific header spacing/connector that fits those pins? I remember seeing something in the BOM, but there are two wiring points, one by the atmega and one under the USB C connector.Would the hardwire point work with a JST daughter board or something?Definetely. Even a different connector. That's why I put a breakout there.
Is there a specific header spacing/connector that fits those pins?Anything with 2,54mm spacing.
Any idea what components might have failed if my soldering iron was too hot or I shorted something?Iron was definetely too hot. Some flux would also help.
Is there a specific header spacing/connector that fits those pins?Anything with 2,54mm spacing.
Any idea what components might have failed if my soldering iron was too hot or I shorted something?Iron was definetely too hot. Some flux would also help.
so 2.54mm spacing for the header that is near the Atmega32u4?The six pads header? That's the ISP to flash the bootloader. Don't mess with that.
The header below the USB connector appears to have narrower spacingCould be 2mm then. I forgot, but you can solder live wires to it.
Is is possible I burned the atmega32u4 or one of the capacitors in the process?I don't think you could do that without actually burning the PCB as well.
What iron temperature do you use?Between 250 and 300 °C works fine for me.
I don't see any current limiting resistors on the RGB LEDs. Are they not necessary?In my understanding the driver inside the package will handle that. You do need a 0.1uF capacitor for each one of the LEDs.
My Rev 2 PCB is soldered, with the exception of the switches and LEDs (I bought the wrong ones). I have QMK up and running, but I think I may have found a bug. The switch positioned between S101 and S102 is wired to column 5, so it registers as a right bracket. I admit that I could be wrong that this is a bug because this is my first time building a keyboard.As stated in my last post. That matrix is for Rev. 1 and I've not uploaded a Rev. 2 code yet because I was waiting for my PCBs to arrive but they were greatly delayed and yet to arrive.
I think there is a mistake in the matrix.I'll look into it when I have some boards handy. I should be getting mine in a few days now.
The same issue is occurring with the switch between S90 and S91. I had to cut two traces and solder jumper wires to get the space and right shift keys working.As stated the new revision as an extra key but I've not committed the code yet. I'm working the TOAD right now and will move to the GH80-3000 tomorrow or later today.
The USB-C is a nightmare to solder.My approach was flux, solder and than reflew with a hot air station and everything went rather smooth.
Hi all,You have to do the C connector yourself, I had some trouble with it, definitely a rough intro to SMD (I can replace single diodes easy, but the connector is a pain). Make sure you have some decent flux and solder that likes to melt. I was using flux meant for sweating pipes and "vintage" solder. Killed 3 boards because I was working at too high a temp.
I gave in and tried to order from JLCPCB. I am sure some of my decisions were a little bit iffy. The one I cant get around is the USB C connector. I just added one but they said it was wrong.
Which connector is it from JLCPCB ?
Or do I have to order it and SMD solder it myself. I am scared to do this. :-X. I have had mixed soldering experiences with through-hole let alone never having done SMD.
I have cancelled my order for now and I have to do a re-order. I will get there :)
Which connector is it from JLCPCB ?This one from LCSC (https://lcsc.com/product-detail/USB-Connectors_Jing-Extension-of-the-Electronic-Co-USB-3-1-C-16PF-SMT2-0Type_C167321.html) or this one from Aliexpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33004501788.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7cc757cauAC3g7&algo_pvid=54aaf5a4-0573-40fb-8175-9cb246579741&algo_expid=54aaf5a4-0573-40fb-8175-9cb246579741-5&btsid=2100bdf016130506729725375e9a93&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_).
Would anyone consider doing a GB of this anytime soon? I really am too stressed out to solder SMD stuff rn lol also, if anyone in the US has finished boards or almost finished, like missing a few components like a USB-C connector or something (a mostly soldered board), I would gladly take one off their hands
Looks like JLCPCB recently offer to solder through hole connectors, like USB C.
It may be possible to have a PCB fully assembled by them as of now.
I recently did a PCBA order with them and it went smoothly, only had to solder the JST connector (they did not had the possibility to solder connectors at that time).
The game is to select the right components from their offerings, it request a little bit of work.
I may have a look at the BOM file and see if I can find everything needed, I'll let you know if I have some results.
I see there is a rev 2 available but doesnt seems to see the firmware is available yet.
I see there is a rev 2 available but doesnt seems to see the firmware is available yet.
Have a look here https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6rf2mn2e0h81ag1/AACIAshI0GMjsPnh7VB6rXx6a?dl=0
I have modified the qmk layout for revision 2. It needs some more tests, afterwards I will try to make a github pull request
to make it into the official qmk firmware repo. If you want to compile it yourself, I can share the modified sources..
I see there is a rev 2 available but doesnt seems to see the firmware is available yet.
Have a look here https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6rf2mn2e0h81ag1/AACIAshI0GMjsPnh7VB6rXx6a?dl=0
I have modified the qmk layout for revision 2. It needs some more tests, afterwards I will try to make a github pull request
to make it into the official qmk firmware repo. If you want to compile it yourself, I can share the modified sources..
Hi, any new update to the firmware? I have tried the firmware in dropbox and some keys not work and also the lock led not work too. Thanks for your attention in advance.
Thanks for the effort. really appreciate it.
You can replace the out of stock 0.1 uF capacitor by this one that is also a basic part:e
CC0805KRX7R9BB104
As for the Atmega32u4 AU unfortunately there is no JLCPCB replacement equivalent :(
If you are brave enought you could still order it at Mouser/Digikey/Other and solder it yourself.
Which connector is it from JLCPCB ?This one from LCSC (https://lcsc.com/product-detail/USB-Connectors_Jing-Extension-of-the-Electronic-Co-USB-3-1-C-16PF-SMT2-0Type_C167321.html) or this one from Aliexpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33004501788.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7cc757cauAC3g7&algo_pvid=54aaf5a4-0573-40fb-8175-9cb246579741&algo_expid=54aaf5a4-0573-40fb-8175-9cb246579741-5&btsid=2100bdf016130506729725375e9a93&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_).
Hi all,
I used this BOM, this pick and place and this Gerber.
It's nearly there - there is an inventory shortage, however.
It needs someone who has a clue to update the missing item and to probably guide us non-smd solderer types to get it going. or if some kind soul could sort out the bom and pick and place that would be awesome. You would win internet points of gratitude :)
Uploaded BOM Data Review Matched Parts
Designator Name Footprint Matched Part Detail Qty Source Total Cost Select
C12,C11,C1...
0.1uF
C0805
C0805C104K1RECAUTO
X7R 100nF ±10% 100V 0805 Multilayer...
20 LCSC A$1.4955 Inventory shortage
R1,R2
22
0805
0805W8J0220T5E
±5% ±200ppm/℃ 22Ω 0.125W 0805 Chip ...
15 JLCPCB A$0.0595
C8,C9,C10
1uF
0805
CL21F105ZOFNNNE
Y5V -20%~+80% 1uF 16V 0805 Multilay...
20 LCSC A$0.5747
D1,D2,D3,D...
1N4148W
SOD-123FL_L2.6-...
1N4148W D1
+150℃ (Tj) 5uA 75V 150mA - 4ns 1V 1...
594 LCSC A$8.9156
R4,R5
5.1k
R0805
RS-05K5101FT
±1% ±100ppm/℃ 0.125W 5.1kΩ 0805 Chi...
15 LCSC A$0.3110
C3,C4,C5,C...
0.1uF
0805
C0805C104K1RECAUTO
X7R 100nF ±10% 100V 0805 Multilayer...
30 LCSC A$2.2433 Inventory shortage
USB1
TYPE-C
USB-C-SMD_TYPE-...
TYPE-C 16P(073)
SMD USB Connectors ROHS
6 LCSC A$0.6198
U1
ATMEGA32U4
SPARKFUN-DIGITA...
ATMEGA32U4-AU
2.7V ~ 5.5V 8-Bit AVR 16MHz FLASH Q...
5 LCSC A$36.1037 Inventory shortage
R3
1k
0805
0805W8F1001T5E
±1% ±100ppm/℃ 1kΩ 0.125W 0805 Chip ...
10 JLCPCB A$0.1298
X1
16MHz
OSC-SMD_4P-L3.2...
X322516MLB4SI
±10ppm 16000000Hz -40℃~85℃ 贴片无源晶振 6...
6 JLCPCB A$1.3170
C2,C1
22pF
C0805
CL21C220JBANNNC
C0G ±5% 50V 22pF 0805 Multilayer Ce...
15 JLCPCB A$0.3705
SW1
Reset
SW-SMD_4PIN-L5....
No part selectedSearch Pre-order
Has anyone sucessfully printed Rev.2 with JLC ? Is it works correctly ?
That's very strange - the qmk firmware clearly states they all have pins...
/me actually reads some of the thread
"Rev. 2 gets RGB LED indicators" - that would be why they can share a pin.
Seems there are problems in the matrix and I'm not sure anyone actually has a working rev2 board yet - you'd have done better ordering some rev1 which just worked :(
Has anyone sucessfully printed Rev.2 with JLC ? Is it works correctly ?
I've printed some PCB's in the REV. 2 to realize the first prototypes of a new layout of keyboard based on the old QZERTY italian layout, but this is a long story and in the future of course I'll make a topic. If you are curious you can read about it here https://www.vescovorestauri.it/tastiere/ (https://www.vescovorestauri.it/tastiere/)(in italian but you can easily translate). I want to produce an ISO 105 standard based keyboard, I search a lot on the market but it's impossible to find that PCB. So, I print this GH80-3000 PCB. But there's some problem to talk about:
-For ISO 105 you have to wire manually some key.
-hole for 6.25 spacebar stabilizer are in little wrong position (interax are more than 100 mm)
-right ALT is approx one millimeter in the wrong position, more on the left than normal and so it hurts a little bit the spacebar.
-I'm manually wiring on kbfirmware.com because there isn't the layout.
When I resolve all the problems I'll make a post...
Final considerations: for the first prototypes of my new product it's a good base to "play", but to produce it... I will certainly release a PCB PURE ISO 105.
So I finally bit the bullet and ordered some GH80-3000 PCBs. I ordered AT32U4-AUs, 12pf 16MHz crystals, and had some 0805 resistors and caps around. I assembled just the MCU, Caps and resistors for the first board (no diodes or switches). It does not show up as a USB device, and I can't seem to reach it on the ISP header. Inspection doesn't indicate any bridges between MCU pins, VCC is apparent on the board. So I figured I must have bridged something under the chip or crystal, and built the second board, being extra careful. Exact same symptoms. So far I have tried flipping the crystal around, reflowed it, tried 18pf in addition to 22pf, reflowing one of the boards with a heatgun, and testing my ISP programmer on a random promicro. What should I try next? I am sure something stupid is happening.
Here's a close up of the MCU complex: https://i.imgur.com/SR3l8RK.png
The crystal I am using is https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/suzhou-hangjing-elec-tech-co-ltd/XC32M4-16-000-F12NLDTK/16686213, which seems quite similar to the original part. I am using AT32U4-AU (no RC).
I don't think I should have to program the bootloader, but ISP also doesn't work, so I assume it's the crystal. Anything else I can check?
I've been following this project for years and now i have the perfect case and keycaps for it. Was wondering if any of you people have any spare pcb and component open for selling. Cheers