The Living Soldering Thread

[tjcaustin]

I have a sort of related question to soldering..

Does anyone know what the plastic looking tools are called that pry stuff apart (keyboards so I can solder them?) without breaking the clips?

I've had to use a plastic puddy knife to take a laptop apart, looking for something more professional for the next time.

Do you mean:

?

[gnubag]

take random credit/debit/phone/gift cards.
that would be the cheapest tool you need to open cases.

[actionbastard]

I have a sort of related question to soldering..

Does anyone know what the plastic looking tools are called that pry stuff apart (keyboards so I can solder them?) without breaking the clips?

I've had to use a plastic puddy knife to take a laptop apart, looking for something more professional for the next time.

Do you mean:

Show Image

?

Maybe.. that wedge in the middle on the right looks like it could work. But I've seen the tools in disassembly videos, they look like some sort of composite plastic rounded wedge tools. No idea what they are called.

take random credit/debit/phone/gift cards.
that would be the cheapest tool you need to open cases.

Might try that next time.

[tjcaustin]

The middle right one is the one I use for everything keyboard.  The wedge tip does great for popping cases apart and the kinda forked end pops keycaps off faster and safer than anything else.

[YoungMichael88]

I got these in from eBay today

Anti-magnetic too. I'll try find the link

EDIT: http://bit.ly/14M0Otc
Very happy with these I thought they were gonna be poorly built but they are not bad

[actionbastard]

Alright friends, after some research the tool is called a Spudger.

[mkawa]

spudgers are plastic or nylon tools used to pry things apart, push things around without scratching the surface below them, push things together, apply tape without those damned bubbles, anything you can use a plastic, nylon, silicone, etc. tool for. it's a pretty catch-all term. the point is that it's not metal, the goal is not to scratch anything, and ideally it shouldn't melt or conduct electricity.

[jdcarpe]

I have a sort of related question to soldering..

Does anyone know what the plastic looking tools are called that pry stuff apart (keyboards so I can solder them?) without breaking the clips?

I've had to use a plastic puddy knife to take a laptop apart, looking for something more professional for the next time.

I've had great success opening Filcos with an "iPod repair tool."

[CPTBadAss]

I used a screwdriver to open my Filco....then I slipped and poked myself with it. I managed to not draw blood so I wouldn't say I stabbed myself. I'm really lucky I didn't try using my pocket knife...

-10/10, would not use again. Be safe and use a small screw driver/plastic tool/spudger and definitely not your pocket knife....and don't try to open boards up in your lap.

[mkawa]

my favorite spudgers are these:



i usually find an OBO dealer on ebay and offer them like .5/ea for 20 of them. the great thing/problem with spudgers is that because they're made to be softer than the things they're spudging, they're super easy to tear up, so i usually keep a good dozen around and just toss them with they have so many little marks in them that they're not useful anymore. i've done all kinds of crazy crap to them. snapped off the sharp end, put huge holes into the flat end, melted one, etc. 's fine, just toss and grab a new one out of the box

[SpAmRaY]

I have had good experience with the spudger from iFixit. The ones I have are slightly bigger than ones I got from Dell.

[mkawa]

the ones that ifixit sells are exactly the ones in my post above. they are available for about an order of magnitude less money directly from HK or mainland china with relatively low MOQ

[Photoelectric]

I've had great success opening Filcos with an "iPod repair tool."

Show Image

I've been using one of those for o-ring placement and as a keycap remover :D  Regular old credit cards to open cases, though it's a pain either way.

[nubbinator]

I've had great success opening Filcos with an "iPod repair tool."

More

Show Image

I found it incredibly easy to open my QFR and RK9000 with a putty knife.  If you're carefull, a good metal one won't scratch anything, but if you want to be safe, there are plenty of sturdy plastic ones that will do the trick.

[SpAmRaY]

the ones that ifixit sells are exactly the ones in my post above. they are available for about an order of magnitude less money directly from HK or mainland china with relatively low MOQ

Good to know, I need to order some of these then!!

[VesperSAINT]

I have a sort of related question to soldering..

Does anyone know what the plastic looking tools are called that pry stuff apart (keyboards so I can solder them?) without breaking the clips?

I've had to use a plastic puddy knife to take a laptop apart, looking for something more professional for the next time.

I got this white plastic tool that was made specifically to remove the top case from Cooler Master, which works like a thing smooth wedge.

[mkawa]

speaking of putty knives. a putty knife for the purposes of clay sculpting sharped on 1000+ grit sandpaper (wet keeps the paper in the best shape) works extremely well as a spudger too. obviously you want the plastic or nylon ones not the metal ones.

i got mine for 0.75/ea at the art store. they seem very pbt, but i have not confirmed.

[MKULTRA]

Just got all my soldering supplies today!  Can't wait for GON to ship my PCB and case and stuff.

[SpAmRaY]

I have a sort of related question to soldering..

Does anyone know what the plastic looking tools are called that pry stuff apart (keyboards so I can solder them?) without breaking the clips?

I've had to use a plastic puddy knife to take a laptop apart, looking for something more professional for the next time.

I got this white plastic tool that was made specifically to remove the top case from Cooler Master, which works like a thing smooth wedge.

I have some of these, still in the packaging. Forgot all about them.

[kenmai9]

If I want to just desolder switches and re solder new switches all I need is an iron, solder and wick right? Why does everyone keep buying de soldering irons? Is wick not sufficient enough?

[The_Beast]

If I want to just desolder switches and re solder new switches all I need is an iron, solder and wick right? Why does everyone keep buying de soldering irons? Is wick not sufficient enough?

I hate wicks, suckers a better IMO

[bueller]

If I want to just desolder switches and re solder new switches all I need is an iron, solder and wick right? Why does everyone keep buying de soldering irons? Is wick not sufficient enough?

I hate wicks, suckers a better IMO

Totally agree, I can desolder a whole board in about 10 mins with a pump, braid would take far longer!

[Photoelectric]

Ok, I did something stupid and pulled out one of the copper rings around the PCB holes that gets soldered to a switch pin.  Is this fixable in any way?  The silver metal ring around the back of the PCB, connecting to traces, is still there and fine.

[nubbinator]

Ok, I did something stupid and pulled out one of the copper rings around the PCB holes that gets soldered to a switch pin.  Is this fixable in any way?  The silver metal ring around the back of the PCB, connecting to traces, is still there and fine.

Are you talking about a PCB land?  Do you have a picture?

[Photoelectric]

Yup, it's that one.  The rest are coming out neatly as I'm maneuvering with a desoldering braid to get all the small stuck bits disconnected.

Pause, left pin hole:


Same but from the back side--looks normal (except all the flux I've not yet cleaned off)

[nubbinator]

As long as the land isn't connected to a trace you should be ok.  You really need to get yourself a solder pump or bulb though. It makes it so much easier to desolder and you get nicer looking lands and don't have to worry as much about burning the land or trace.

[Photoelectric]

That's the problem--I have a desoldering pump/tool from Radioshack.  I got all the solder pools out fine, but some of the switches have tiny filaments of solder remaining.  That's where I've had to add solder and maneuver with a braid, because the pump won't get those out.  And they are not very visible either--have to look in carefully, and if the switches don't come out easily but look like they should, that's where those tiny filaments are  

[The_Beast]

That's the problem--I have a desoldering pump/tool from Radioshack.  I got all the solder pools out fine, but some of the switches have tiny filaments of solder remaining.  That's where I've had to add solder and maneuver with a braid, because the pump won't get those out.  And they are not very visible either--have to look in carefully, and if the switches don't come out easily but look like they should, that's where those tiny filaments are  

For those types of situations, I apply heat to the small joint and gently pull the component off

[Photoelectric]

I've just been adding solder to all thinly-connected pins now and using desoldering braid.  Reliably good result.  Not a fan of the Radioshack sucker tool now =/  Much neater with a braid, and I wouldn't have had to desolder each difficult switch twice.

[tjcaustin]

I've just been adding solder to all thinly-connected pins now and using desoldering braid.  Reliably good result.  Not a fan of the Radioshack sucker tool now =/  Much neater with a braid, and I wouldn't have had to desolder each difficult switch twice.

I hated my radioshack bulb, to be fair. 

Absolutely love my fx-808, but that's not for everyone.

[Photoelectric]

It seems okay in theory, except that it left 2/3rds of my switches unremovable.  I even heated the pins for a while before using the suction bulb =/  The holes looked neat, but then it would turn out that there was still a thin filament of solder left somewhere inside.  Seems like it's partially a Filco-related annoyance too, as not all PCBs have those copper shafts all the way through to the other side, to trap solder.

How do you wiggle the switch while heating the pins, by the way?  It seems like a 3-hand job...  Unless you clamp the PCB+plate in some vertical position.  Would definitely be nice to not have to refill solder + use desoldering braid on everything--it's been a very slow process, sometimes I have to repeat it 2 or 3 times.

[jdcarpe]

It seems okay in theory, except that it left 2/3rds of my switches unremovable.  I even heated the pins for a while before using the suction bulb =/  The holes looked neat, but then it would turn out that there was still a thin filament of solder left somewhere inside.  Seems like it's partially a Filco-related annoyance too, as not all PCBs have those copper shafts all the way through to the other side, to trap solder.

How do you wiggle the switch while heating the pins, by the way?  It seems like a 3-hand job...  Unless you clamp the PCB+plate in some vertical position.  Would definitely be nice to not have to refill solder + use desoldering braid on everything--it's been a very slow process, sometimes I have to repeat it 2 or 3 times.

I had this exact problem with my Filco MJ-2. With a Hakko 808, not a RadioShack desoldering iron/bulb. So don't feel bad. As long as the land on the back is intact, the switch will still work fine.

FWIW, the singe-sided MJ-1 I desoldered had no such problems.

[khaangaaroo]

FWIW, the singe-sided MJ-1 I desoldered had no such problems.

Makes me even more glad I rolled with cheap single-sided QFRs instead of MJ2s now

[Photoelectric]

Ok guys, thanks so much for the help / support!  I got most of the switches out now--a handful to go.  I did end up just heating up the stubborn pins and pushing on the switch from the other side with a flat screwdriver.  That pops them right out

[gnubag]

Ok guys, thanks so much for the help / support!  I got most of the switches out now--a handful to go.  I did end up just heating up the stubborn pins and pushing on the switch from the other side with a flat screwdriver.  That pops them right out

if you do that try using a cheap  IC puller.

[Photoelectric]

Woohoo, it's done!  Thanks again!



Such a beautiful color--my favorite.

[bueller]

I'd avoid the solder bulbs, they're rubbish. I've got a de-soldering pump and it's so much quicker than using wick, desoldered 2 boards last night in about 15 minutes.

[Photoelectric]

Oh yes, forgot to mention, this is what happened to my desoldering tool from Radio Shack after one day of use (more precisely after a few hours of intermittent use):



I made sure to squeeze the bulb a few times after every switch to get all the solder out as much as possible.  Apparently the tip was not made to last at all.  Good thing it only cost me $5, and perhaps I can squeeze another PCB's worth of desoldering out of it, but I have my doubts!

[TheFlyingRaccoon]

Oh yes, forgot to mention, this is what happened to my desoldering tool from Radio Shack after one day of use (more precisely after a few hours of intermittent use):

Show Image

I made sure to squeeze the bulb a few times after every switch to get all the solder out as much as possible.  Apparently the tip was not made to last at all.  Good thing it only cost me $5, and perhaps I can squeeze another PCB's worth of desoldering out of it, but I have my doubts!

Wow same thing happened to mine after desoldering one board. I guess I'm not the only one! I took it back to Radioshack and they gave me a new iron and replacement tip.

[Photoelectric]

Hrm, I should try that... I think I tossed the packaging though   I got it to mod 2 Filco TKL keyboards, and it's dying after 1.

[CPTBadAss]

When I worked at my internship, I used braid a lot. I got a little fed up with the braid because we had cheap stuff and it wasn't very good. I saw the pumps in the supply closet and someone told me what they did so I was so excited to use them. I figured it would make my life so much easier.

I spent the better part of a day trying to get it to work. I'm talking like 4-6 hours of soldering/de-soldering. When I finally got mad and tossed the pump out, the guys laughed at me so hard.

They soldered/de-soldered for a good portion of their jobs and they couldn't get the pumps to work. They had long since given up on them and let the dumb intern try it out.

With all the praise they get here, I kind of want to try out one. But there's no way I'm paying $30 for something that I've tested and deemed unusable for me.

And my bulb looks like that too. I really don't care how it looks as long as it keeps desoldering.

[TheFlyingRaccoon]

Hrm, I should try that... I think I tossed the packaging though   I got it to mod 2 Filco TKL keyboards, and it's dying after 1.

Yea these things really aren't high quality. Good luck getting a replacement!

[mkawa]

the 808 and compressor driven dedicated desoldering stations are really the only pumps worth their salt. (although it's a lot of salt). it depends on how much you make from desoldering. usually when i really need to get a part off, a combination of high quality appropriately sized (i keep a variety of widths around) and a soldapult can do the job, but there's usually a certain amount of destruction involved (ie, snipping the component off at the leads).

[Photoelectric]

How do you use those syringe-like pumps?  You pull with your left hand, while heating a pin with a soldering iron with your right hand?

[bueller]

How do you use those syringe-like pumps?  You pull with your left hand, while heating a pin with a soldering iron with your right hand?

Soldering iron in dominant hand and then pump in the other. I usually rest the tip of the pump just a few mm away from the solder joint and then as I lift the iron off I move the pump over the solder and hit the button. Takes a bit of getting used to but once you get a rhythm going it's dead easy.

[damorgue]

How do you use those syringe-like pumps?  You pull with your left hand, while heating a pin with a soldering iron with your right hand?

They are spring loaded beforehand, you don't need to pull anything when you want to do the actual desolder. You just press the button on it when the solder is melted and it will suck.

[Photoelectric]

Hrm, that does sound very nice, especially if they have high suction force.  Thank you!  Are there any decent ones at RadioShack, in case I'm allowed to exchange mine?  Or only from places like Amazon.

[mkawa]

as has been mentioned several hundred times in this thread, the soldapullt DS017 is the gold standard for hand pumps. order directly from edsyn or easily available from fry's if you have one locally.

the nozzle is plastic, but quite cheap and replaceable (not that i've ever known anyone who needed to replace any part on a soldapullt..)

[Photoelectric]

I had a more specific question - don't get mad   I know that Soldapult is The recommended tool, but but I was checking about a local alternative,  especially with a possible exchange.

[mkawa]

are you asking if radioshack carries the soldapullt or will refund you? i have absolutely no idea. i can say that i've screwed around with all kinds of desoldering tools fo light use and just having a variety of good wick on hand and a soldapullt has generally worked for me. if you're MMB or alaricljs, you need to spring for either a compressor driven unit or a self-contained unit like the hakko 808. that's pretty much the end-all be-all of desoldering.

oh wait! there is one more option if you just want to recover a board and don't care about the components on it, you can point a hot air gun at the solder and go to town. the temps a good hot air gun hits generally will let the magic smoke out of everything on the board, but the solder will all go liquid at once and you can literally kick the board to make everything magically fall off.

i was pretty bored as a kid.