The Living Soldering Thread

[Photoelectric]

Thank you.  And my exact question above was "Are there any decent ones at RadioShack, in case I'm allowed to exchange mine?"  I'm good though, I'll figure something out.

[mkawa]

OH! the answer to that is no, unfortunately. one of the horrible things i went through was a stupid bulb from radioshack.

[bpiphany]

Pumps are good for removing large amounts of solder. Through hole plating makes the job a lot harder. The old single sided Filco PCBs are a breeze compared to newer ones. Braid is good for getting the last remaining solder off, and for SMD parts. It doesn't completely remove all solder completely either, parts are still often stuck somewhere...

[mkawa]

sometimes the old heat'n'pull is the only way to separate those suckers

a jig like the always-useful panavise pcb holder, extended vise, or even the jr can be quite helpful here.

for SMT a good pair of tweezers is quite useful, which is why we were discussing tweezers earlier.

the hakko 888d also supports a set of heated tweezers (that of course cost more than the unit itself :facepalm:) if you do a ton of smt rework.

what you don't want to do is ever EVER waste money on one of these "third hands" pieces of crap that are everywhere. here is an example of one: http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/a4bb/

DO NOT EVER BUY ONE OR TRY TO USE ONE

they are the biggest pieces of crap i swear to god..

[Photoelectric]

Pumps are good for removing large amounts of solder. Through hole plating makes the job a lot harder. The old single sided Filco PCBs are a breeze compared to newer ones. Braid is good for getting the last remaining solder off, and for SMD parts. It doesn't completely remove all solder completely either, parts are still often stuck somewhere...

Yeah, I learned that the hard way   I followed the advice of heating up the pins and pulling on the swtich gently from the other side at the same time--that worked very well where tiny inaccessible filaments of solder were left.  Problem with using the soldering braid is that it can get hot enough to melt off the coating on the traces.  Even though it doesn't seem to have a detrimental effect (other than exposing the traces to oxidation), I was going for the neatest job possible.  Next time for my second Filco I'll just be using a suction tool + heating up pins and pulling--no desoldering braid.

[mkawa]

oftentimes a given job (and this doesn't just apply to soldering, but to the practice of taking everything in your life apart piece by piece, measuring it carefully and then putting it back together again OK I HAVE A PROBLEM OK? I GET IT) requires a combination of tools. heat'n'pull is a great way to get the component out initially. now you have a blob of solder, and if it's thru-hole, possibly two sides to get at it. this is literally the perfect time for a pump like the soldapullt, heat one side with your iron and suck with the other. DONE.

in the process of doing this, you very possibly used an adjustable vice or two, coarse tweezers, some gloves (burning onesself on one's iron sucks!), a good temp controlled iron, etc. etc. etc.

this is the excuse i use for owning so many tools.

[gnubag]

what gloves are you using for soldering? regular white gloves?

[mkawa]

whatever disposable polymer crap is at hand (hah hah glove joke .... )

[calavera]

Alright I'm thinking of getting a Hakko 888 soldering kit. What tips should I get with it? I'll buy everything from amazon btw.

[actionbastard]

Alright I'm thinking of getting a Hakko 888 soldering kit. What tips should I get with it? I'll buy everything from amazon btw.

I got a 1.2 chisel, another 1.6 (the one its comes with), and a 3.2, in case I need to do something big down the road.

For me, I feel like the 1.2 is small enough for SMD, anything smaller seems like it would just be like a needle point.

[tjcaustin]

Alright I'm thinking of getting a Hakko 888 soldering kit. What tips should I get with it? I'll buy everything from amazon btw.

I got a 1.2 chisel, another 1.6 (the one its comes with), and a 3.2, in case I need to do something big down the road.

For me, I feel like the 1.2 is small enough for SMD, anything smaller seems like it would just be like a needle point.

I use needle points more than anything, but I also do admittedly different stuff than most here.

I'd say look for the 12 pack that floats around on ebay, it's solid tips and has a good selection for a great price.

[mkawa]

i don't know about the ebay tips because frankly i'd rather have a single tip that lasts 12 years than 12 tips that give me inconsistent heat transfer for one year each.

also because genuine tips are cheap.

i have one of the smaller needle points i never use, a d16, d32 (for big ****), and some other crap i never use. the d16 is pretty much going to be your go-to tip for almost everything except for joints that need a lot of power. the small tips like the d12 or the needle points are only really useful in situations where you need to be really careful about how much power you're putting into the joint. not that this doesn't include most SMD ICs, because you'll want enough surface area to be able to do a quick wipe downwards across the pins. a needle tip won't allow you to do that, but can be useful for really fine rework.

for wires or big components i break out the d32. the 888d has enough power to make quick work of those if you give it the surface area.

[Melvang]

I got a question for your guys.  I was in the process of building a really custom cable for my secret project and bumped the tip of the iron on the insulation of the wire.  Now I have burnt on insulation on one side of the tip.  Any suggestions to get it off without removing the nickel plating?  I have already tried the brass sponge type tip cleaner and tinning the crap out of the tip with mounds of solder but i can't seem to cut through it.

HELP PLEASE.

Melvang

[TheSoulhunter]

Alright I'm thinking of getting a Hakko 888 soldering kit. What tips should I get with it? I'll buy everything from amazon btw.

I use the d24 (2,4 mm chisel) for most trough-hole stuff...
More contact area than the d16 (better heat transfer) but not too big (like the d32).

[Cafiend]

Has anyone used a butane soldering iron? I have been looking at them and I'm curious if there
 is a general preference when it comes to computer use.

[mkawa]

I got a question for your guys.  I was in the process of building a really custom cable for my secret project and bumped the tip of the iron on the insulation of the wire.  Now I have burnt on insulation on one side of the tip.  Any suggestions to get it off without removing the nickel plating?  I have already tried the brass sponge type tip cleaner and tinning the crap out of the tip with mounds of solder but i can't seem to cut through it.

HELP PLEASE.

Melvang

heat then use a bronze fibered brush

[mkawa]

Has anyone used a butane soldering iron? I have been looking at them and I'm curious if there
 is a general preference when it comes to computer use.

useless. they're for joining copper pipes in plumbing

[bpiphany]

Has anyone used a butane soldering iron? I have been looking at them and I'm curious if there
 is a general preference when it comes to computer use.

useless. they're for joining copper pipes in plumbing

Not quite true... https://www.google.se/search?q=butane+soldering+pen&tbm=isch&biw=1700&bih=956

Very high effect, no temperature control. Only good for electronics in a pinch.

[actionbastard]

What's the best way to remove LEDs?

[tjcaustin]

Has anyone used a butane soldering iron? I have been looking at them and I'm curious if there
 is a general preference when it comes to computer use.

useless. they're for joining copper pipes in plumbing

Not quite true... https://www.google.se/search?q=butane+soldering+pen&tbm=isch&biw=1700&bih=956

Very high effect, no temperature control. Only good for electronics in a pinch.

Yeah, the pens are meant for heavier gauge electronic/wire work.  I've got one that has a crude temp control but I wouldn't use it for PCB stuff.

What's the best way to remove LEDs?

The best way is with a hakko fx-808, an acceptable way is with heat and a soldapullt

[Photoelectric]

This is sort of soldering and keyboard-related...  Filco USB cables: does anyone know what is that paper-like stuff under the rubber outer insulation?  Just spliced a cable, going to see if I can sleeve it and solder it back together.  Some sort of an anti-static material?  Unsure if it's going to cause problems to have a section without it.

[tjcaustin]

This is sort of soldering and keyboard-related...  Filco USB cables: does anyone know what is that paper-like stuff under the rubber outer insulation?  Just spliced a cable, going to see if I can sleeve it and solder it back together.  Some sort of an anti-static material?  Unsure if it's going to cause problems to have a section without it.

Nah, it's just a cheap insulator, you'll be fine.

[Photoelectric]

Thank you--and since you possibly know about cables then, do you know what this thing is called?



(the "stopper"-like addon to make the cable sit tightly inside the case hole). 

[gnubag]

Thank you--and since you possibly know about cables then, do you know what this thing is called?

Show Image

(the "stopper"-like addon to make the cable sit tightly inside the case hole).

cable strain relief

[Photoelectric]

Thank you very much!

[ApocalypseMaow]

Where do you get those!!!

[calavera]

Thanks for the tips guys.

The Hakko 888 comes stock with D16 I think. So for just basic switch work I should get a D24? I don't think I'll ever need a D12/needle size.
Any recommendations on which solder wire to get? What's easier, desolder pump or desoldering wick?

[gnubag]

Thanks for the tips guys.

The Hakko 888 comes stock with D16 I think. So for just basic switch work I should get a D24? I don't think I'll ever need a D12/needle size.
Any recommendations on which solder wire to get? What's easier, desolder pump or desoldering wick?

for solder just get kester 44 (link in op)
and IMO a pump works better for me but I still have some wick around if I need it for what ever

i just bought a new edsyn pump
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181045394315?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

[PointyFox]

Thank you--and since you possibly know about cables then, do you know what this thing is called?

Show Image

(the "stopper"-like addon to make the cable sit tightly inside the case hole). 

That one is molded into the cable, so you can't replace that part without replacing the whole cable.  They do make types that you mount on the body of whatever the cord plugs into like this:
http://www.delcity.net/store/Strain-Relief-Cord-Connectors/p_800839.r_IF1003?gclid=CKr31fWen7gCFcmj4Aod2AIA0w

[mkawa]

strain relief is available from any electronics shop

for general soldering work the d16 is great. it's really a jack of all trades. d24 for slightly bigger joints (it's a compromise for the impatient and careful basically), d32 for honkers. d16 can scale down to SMD, so i wouldn't bother going smaller. but d16s take forever to heat up huge joints, so a d32 is a good tip to have around.

[jdcarpe]

To those with the RadioShack desoldering iron w/bulb:

You don't have to replace the entire iron when the tip wears out. They sell replacement tips for like $1.99. When this was my primary desoldering tool, I would go into RadioShack about once a month and buy up all the tips they had in stock each time. Using a new tip really cuts down on the frustration factor.

[Photoelectric]

Thank you, JD!  I'm going to stop by my local RadioShack today to get a new tip.

By the way, how long do the SoldaPult tools last?  I might be getting a used one from someone for a good price, but I don't know if it's a bad idea.

[CPTBadAss]

JD You're my hero. Mine cracked from the thermal stresses, which makes no sense btw, and I was so mad.

[jdcarpe]

Thank you, JD!  I'm going to stop by my local RadioShack today to get a new tip.

By the way, how long do the SoldaPult tools last?  I might be getting a used one from someone for a good price, but I don't know if it's a bad idea.

The Soldapullt should last just short of forever, if it's a genuine Edsyn. If it did break, you could just call their customer service at 818 989-2324 and they would probably repair or replace it. I called that number to place my order, and the rep was very helpful. She quoted me less than the listed prices for my order, and you don't even have to purchase their $25 minimum listed on their website. Mine is the trusty DS017.

[mkawa]

list price on the tips (at my fry's) is 3.99. sounds like edsyn will just send you a bunch if you ask though. great frickin company, that

[tgujay]

If you were to accidentally lift a pad off of a PCB while soldering... what would your options be to fix it?

[mkawa]

glue a new pad down. use an adhesive that won't burn at 200C+. then, widen the pad a little bit by etching away at the trace that the pad connects to. it's actually just a thin layer of dieletric covering a copper trace. to electrically connect your new pad to the trace, tin the entirety of the exposed metal at once.

another option if you're soldering a wire to the pad is to find another electrically connected pad to solder the wire to.

[Melvang]

What I would do is the same thing I did when I did my HD activity LED mod on my Das keyboard.  Link for that build log is in my signature.

Essentially what I did was break the trace where I drilled the new holes for the LED and rotating the switch.  After that I just followed the traces to the end points and soldered in a jumper wire from pad to pad.

[bueller]

Man never realised how much of a difference some tip tinner makes with a crappy soldering iron. After desoldering all the switches on a few old boards my tip was covered in crap and wouldn't even catch solder anymore, couple of runs through the tinner and it's good as new. Can't believe I've never bothered buying some before.

[Photoelectric]

I've been tinning with my solder line--it's always shiny as a result.  Did not get a dedicated tinner.
(Also got a used Soldapult DS017 for $16 shipped, woop!)

[SpAmRaY]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-DS-017-Desoldering-Pump-Sucker-Solder-Irons-Removal-Remover-Tool-Blue-L-/181056125691?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a27c93afb

So I'm guessing this listing is a fake, considering the price and it doesn't say Soldapullt but does use the model number?

[mkawa]

tip tinner is just solder paste btw.

the hardcore way to clean your tips and heated parts of the iron off are to take some iso and a brass brush and scrub the **** out of everything.

[mkawa]

i also prefer liquid flux. totally up to personal preference though.

[jdcarpe]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-DS-017-Desoldering-Pump-Sucker-Solder-Irons-Removal-Remover-Tool-Blue-L-/181056125691?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a27c93afb

So I'm guessing this listing is a fake, considering the price and it doesn't say Soldapullt but does use the model number?

Looks legit, but lacking all Edsyn branding from the listing. My guess would be a clone. The pics are probably from an actual Edsyn DS017.

[SpAmRaY]

Ok so here is an odd question, I know solder is usually talked about by weight...number of ounces etc, but I've seen some on ebay being sold in 15ft or 20ft rolls.

So my question is how many 'feet' of solder does it take to solder up say a phantom?

[mkawa]

depends on how clumsy you are and how you like to solder. i use 63/37 0.025 diam and it would probably take me anywhere about 6in? of solder, but that's with board prep and all kinds of weird stuff. personally what i did when i was a youngun was just buy a bunch of different varieties, a small pack each (oz or two by weight and then bought a gigantor roll of the one i liked the most. in my case it was a kester 63/37, but somehow i ended up losing that and ended up with an alphacore 63/37 i also like fine

*shrug*

[mkawa]

my current roll, which will probably last until i die, btw, is 1lb of 0.025"

[SpAmRaY]

So 20ft of Kester 63/37 .031 Solder Rosin Core #44 should be plenty for messing around and just 'learning' how to solder then!!

Thanks for the info!

[bpiphany]

I don't think my tip tinner is solder paste. It has some citric acidicy smell to it when I goo around in it. I think it does other things than solder paste does, more cleansing power. I use a brass bristle brush to get bulks of crap of the tip, then I use the tinner, a couple of times if necessary. Sometimes I also rub the extra persistent spots of burnt solder lightly with a scalpel tip to get them off.

[actionbastard]

my current roll, which will probably last until i die, btw, is 1lb of 0.025"

Ya, I just got a 1lb roll of kester .02 (.5mm) on ebay for like 16 bucks a couple weeks ago.

I don't think I'll ever run out.