My wife is literally going to murder me. Right after I get my Octagon too. Bah! **SIGH** Ordered...
Might as well be a Duck board for my first full sized.(http://cfile30.uf.tistory.com/image/246A7D4956EAA5EA0182BE)
If I don't make it though, my wallet will thank me.
Wait, what size is the spacebar for HHKB layout? Just judging from the layouts shown, it kinda looked like it was 6.25u, but I know most HHKB layout boards have the spacebar as 7u or 6u sometimes.
Might as well be a Duck board for my first full sized.
If I don't make it though, my wallet will thank me.
Wait, what size is the spacebar for HHKB layout? Just judging from the layouts shown, it kinda looked like it was 6.25u, but I know most HHKB layout boards have the spacebar as 7u or 6u sometimes.
It's either.
I think I might have drunkenly put in for this last night. If I did, and made it on, please take me off the list. There seems to be alot more people who would like this more than myself.
There goes the rest of my tax return. Way too gorgeous of a keyboard to turn down.
There goes the rest of my tax return. Way too gorgeous of a keyboard to turn down.
If you get a tax return every year that means you're over paying the government throughout the year and they are making money off your over payment via interest. What you're looking for is to pay the least amount of taxes while trying to avoid having to pay more than 100.00 and/or get 100.00 back on your return. That way you have a chance to enjoy more money throughout the year and invest in whatever you want instead of letting the government get rich off you and giving you a false sense of happiness during tax return time =)
Cheers
There goes the rest of my tax return. Way too gorgeous of a keyboard to turn down.
If you get a tax return every year that means you're over paying the government throughout the year and they are making money off your over payment via interest. What you're looking for is to pay the least amount of taxes while trying to avoid having to pay more than 100.00 and/or get 100.00 back on your return. That way you have a chance to enjoy more money throughout the year and invest in whatever you want instead of letting the government get rich off you and giving you a false sense of happiness during tax return time =)
Cheers
Dave Ramsey? Is that you?
If the cutoff is at 30 then you guys are all rip.
Just hope that Duck opens up the buy to another set of 30.
There goes the rest of my tax return. Way too gorgeous of a keyboard to turn down.
If you get a tax return every year that means you're over paying the government throughout the year and they are making money off your over payment via interest. What you're looking for is to pay the least amount of taxes while trying to avoid having to pay more than 100.00 and/or get 100.00 back on your return. That way you have a chance to enjoy more money throughout the year and invest in whatever you want instead of letting the government get rich off you and giving you a false sense of happiness during tax return time =)
Cheers
My wife is literally going to murder me. Right after I get my Octagon too. Bah! **SIGH** Ordered...
So help me out here, how do we know if we made it in the buy? My fingers are crossed!
Order placed, would I have the luck to own the first Korea custom keyboard!Once you go Korean, you never go back.
I am Korean and I approve of this message :thumb:Order placed, would I have the luck to own the first Korea custom keyboard!Once you go Korean, you never go back.
There goes the rest of my tax return. Way too gorgeous of a keyboard to turn down.
If you get a tax return every year that means you're over paying the government throughout the year and they are making money off your over payment via interest. What you're looking for is to pay the least amount of taxes while trying to avoid having to pay more than 100.00 and/or get 100.00 back on your return. That way you have a chance to enjoy more money throughout the year and invest in whatever you want instead of letting the government get rich off you and giving you a false sense of happiness during tax return time =)
Cheers
I think I might have drunkenly put in for this last night. If I did, and made it on, please take me off the list. There seems to be alot more people who would like this more than myself.
Dont worry man! I'll un-drunkenly take that spot if i can.
It's always sad to hears that an orion is collecting dustI think I might have drunkenly put in for this last night. If I did, and made it on, please take me off the list. There seems to be alot more people who would like this more than myself.
Dont worry man! I'll un-drunkenly take that spot if i can.
Well, when i put in for it, I figured, "why not get another custom to build? I'll have something to look forward to putting together." Of course, after being built, it would probably just end up sitting on a shelf, since I like having the f-row . With all the excitement people are having, hoping to get in, I'd rather let someone buy and build it who would actually appreciate having the board and enjoy using it, compared to me building it and letting it collect dust (just like my LSv2 and Orion V2 boards).
It's always sad to hears that an orion is collecting dustI think I might have drunkenly put in for this last night. If I did, and made it on, please take me off the list. There seems to be alot more people who would like this more than myself.
Dont worry man! I'll un-drunkenly take that spot if i can.
Well, when i put in for it, I figured, "why not get another custom to build? I'll have something to look forward to putting together." Of course, after being built, it would probably just end up sitting on a shelf, since I like having the f-row . With all the excitement people are having, hoping to get in, I'd rather let someone buy and build it who would actually appreciate having the board and enjoy using it, compared to me building it and letting it collect dust (just like my LSv2 and Orion V2 boards).
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Hey guys.
I don't have time to do anything tonight. Just got home so I'll do the spreadsheets tomorrow night. What I can say from looking at the spreadsheet is that it's around 60 sets.
I'm told I can get 2 batches of 30sets. I'll try to start invoicing over the weekend.
Cheers
What did you guys spring for? Standard or HHKB style?
What did you guys spring for? Standard or HHKB style?
Standard. While I will use a mostly HHKB-esque layout (split backspace and right shift) I am not a fan of the bottom row, I just don't see any advantage of leaving out the corners.
While we are waiting does anyone know if any of the plates supports switch top removal?
While we are waiting does anyone know if any of the plates supports switch top removal?
Duck boards typically don't support it, so high chance of "No"
Hey allThanks, Elton! Im looking forward to it!
Here is the public spreadsheet.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1bZr5ca8P6Cbnli7XTZ7WHSkcUaKtJxZslLyAnPFiFbY/pubhtml?gid=1360862044&single=true
I added the option of ordering extra PCB + plate. If you want that just PM me and I'll add it to the order. Adding that option now on the form will just mess up the google doc.
Hey all
Here is the public spreadsheet.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1bZr5ca8P6Cbnli7XTZ7WHSkcUaKtJxZslLyAnPFiFbY/pubhtml?gid=1360862044&single=true
I added the option of ordering extra PCB + plate. If you want that just PM me and I'll add it to the order. Adding that option now on the form will just mess up the google doc.
Also, what's the motivation for people to buy an extra plate and pcb on a super unique layout like this? Do you build them both and swap out every now and again to keep things fresh or keep it around unbuilt in case something goes wrong with the other parts?
Also, what's the motivation for people to buy an extra plate and pcb on a super unique layout like this? Do you build them both and swap out every now and again to keep things fresh or keep it around unbuilt in case something goes wrong with the other parts?
If I get such an expensive board I don't want to **** up by putting on switches I don't like at the end. If I order an extra PCB I have 2 options. I can either go with a PCB mounted approach first and have some freedom to play around, or I just do a full assembly and if I happen to dislike my choice at the end and have to desolder the switches I have a backup in case something goes wrong. I'm currently typing this with a board on which I desoldered the switches at least 3-4 times and everything still works, but getting a replacement for a Korean custom in such a unique layout after this GB should be impossible, better safe then sorry. If I choose route 2 and end up liking the switches I can still build my own case for the other PCB :)
Also, what's the motivation for people to buy an extra plate and pcb on a super unique layout like this? Do you build them both and swap out every now and again to keep things fresh or keep it around unbuilt in case something goes wrong with the other parts?
If I get such an expensive board I don't want to **** up by putting on switches I don't like at the end. If I order an extra PCB I have 2 options. I can either go with a PCB mounted approach first and have some freedom to play around, or I just do a full assembly and if I happen to dislike my choice at the end and have to desolder the switches I have a backup in case something goes wrong. I'm currently typing this with a board on which I desoldered the switches at least 3-4 times and everything still works, but getting a replacement for a Korean custom in such a unique layout after this GB should be impossible, better safe then sorry. If I choose route 2 and end up liking the switches I can still build my own case for the other PCB :)
Also, what's the motivation for people to buy an extra plate and pcb on a super unique layout like this? Do you build them both and swap out every now and again to keep things fresh or keep it around unbuilt in case something goes wrong with the other parts?
If I get such an expensive board I don't want to **** up by putting on switches I don't like at the end. If I order an extra PCB I have 2 options. I can either go with a PCB mounted approach first and have some freedom to play around, or I just do a full assembly and if I happen to dislike my choice at the end and have to desolder the switches I have a backup in case something goes wrong. I'm currently typing this with a board on which I desoldered the switches at least 3-4 times and everything still works, but getting a replacement for a Korean custom in such a unique layout after this GB should be impossible, better safe then sorry. If I choose route 2 and end up liking the switches I can still build my own case for the other PCB :)
:eek: teach me your ways! I am so bad at desoldering. I pretty much lift pads everytime. And I even have a hakko desoldering iron to work with haha
I really want to swap my orion over to some linears but am way to scared too desolder my pcb.
With that said I'm definitely going to be ordering an extra pcb and plate. Better safe than sorry :p
Don't do that. Orion's pcb is super fragile.
Don't do that. Orion's pcb is super fragile.
Ya I'm way too scared to actually consider doing it. But it's good to dream :p
You just need a gentle touch, really. Duck's PCBs have very unreliable pads that like to lift, but as long as you aren't to heavy-handed with the desoldering iron, you should be okay. I keep mine at 350 C and it works like a charm. I had to desolder switches for one Eagle PCB for my hotswappable Duck Eagle projects, and I didn't lift a pad.
Admittedly, I was surprised myself. :P
I think you should be just fine desoldering your Orion once, man. It shouldn't hurt anything as long as you're careful.
This is the slowest filling duck buy I've been a part of! I submitted my form way late and still got a spot hooray! Must be the unique layout.
Why are GH'rs such sticks in the mud? We need to embrace the unique!
I know man. It's crazy. I had a CPSQ that I wanted to sell to buy this and I built it as a split spacebar. I priced it WAY under market value, I mean it was a steal. Just with the split spacebar alone, people were all "oh you're just gonna have to find the right buyer" and it took a few days to sell where as I thought it would be gone in hours at the price I had it listed... It's really lame if you ask me. I love the unusual stuff... I mean what's the point of owning so many keyboards if they all do/look/feel/act the same?!
Why are GH'rs such sticks in the mud? We need to embrace the unique!
NOOOOOO, we need MOAR TKL's, the more genereic the better. All of them should support neither backlighting nor RGB underglow. Of course all of them should be WKL layout and colored either grey or black. Another thing that we also ABSOLUTELY need is more 60% PCB's that all have the same features and basically only differ in the pinout on the controller and the way the traces are placed. /s
But now back on a serious note. It was pretty obvious that this will be Duck's least popular board, just look at the TK78, which also has a similarly unique layout and had a really great price, in the end there were less than half the orders than there are here. I really feel like we need more unique stuff, but when no one want's to buy that it's just not worth it to spend the time on it. I won't be surprised if this here board never runs again, which is also why I'm in, it's just too unique to let it go.
Do you recommend Ss plate for linear only?That's what most people say/do.
Do you recommend Ss plate for linear only?That's what most people say/do.
Do you recommend Ss plate for linear only?That's what most people say/do.
Could you elaborate a bit more? If I'm ordering some plates cut for tactile or clicky switches, would it be better to get ally plates then? Is it because of noise with steel plates?
So when are the invoices being sent?
Do you recommend Ss plate for linear only?That's what most people say/do.
Could you elaborate a bit more? If I'm ordering some plates cut for tactile or clicky switches, would it be better to get ally plates then? Is it because of noise with steel plates?
the majority of mass market keyboards out there like filco, das, and wasd all have steel plates so there isnt anything inherently wrong with using steel plates with tactile or clicky switches... its just preference. my old das ultimate 3 with mx browns feels great. i usually get steel plates with customs when available because they are less common with custom boards. most of my customs are alu.
Hmm do we have the option of not getting our cases anodized? :)
I second this!Hmm do we have the option of not getting our cases anodized? :)
Well, if you do want that, it can be an option..lol I'll ask.
I second this!Hmm do we have the option of not getting our cases anodized? :)
Well, if you do want that, it can be an option..lol I'll ask.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Do Stainless steel plates rust over time? Just wondering if i should change to aluminum
Do Stainless steel plates rust over time? Just wondering if i should change to aluminum
Short answer: no.
Pedantic answer: they can under certain conditions. Stainless is very resistant to oxidation, but is not rust proof. Different alloys have different levels of resistance. Environment plays a large part, as moisture and salts can accelerate the process. Realistically, unless you are typing on the beach in salt spray all day long you're unlikely to have oxidation for as long as keyboards are used as an interface. Generally all quality steel alloys are very stable. I don't have any oxidation on my not-even-remotely-stainless kitchen knives and all I do is wipe them down after use.
Do Stainless steel plates rust over time? Just wondering if i should change to aluminum
Short answer: no.
Pedantic answer: they can under certain conditions. Stainless is very resistant to oxidation, but is not rust proof. Different alloys have different levels of resistance. Environment plays a large part, as moisture and salts can accelerate the process. Realistically, unless you are typing on the beach in salt spray all day long you're unlikely to have oxidation for as long as keyboards are used as an interface. Generally all quality steel alloys are very stable. I don't have any oxidation on my not-even-remotely-stainless kitchen knives and all I do is wipe them down after use.
Ah the reason why I ask is because my "cheap" das keyboard is seeing rust on its plate so was wondering if that will happen with kustoms.
Do Stainless steel plates rust over time? Just wondering if i should change to aluminum
Short answer: no.
Pedantic answer: they can under certain conditions. Stainless is very resistant to oxidation, but is not rust proof. Different alloys have different levels of resistance. Environment plays a large part, as moisture and salts can accelerate the process. Realistically, unless you are typing on the beach in salt spray all day long you're unlikely to have oxidation for as long as keyboards are used as an interface. Generally all quality steel alloys are very stable. I don't have any oxidation on my not-even-remotely-stainless kitchen knives and all I do is wipe them down after use.
Ah the reason why I ask is because my "cheap" das keyboard is seeing rust on its plate so was wondering if that will happen with kustoms.
I have no authoritative knowledge of it, but I strongly suspect keyboards engineered to meet a retail price point* will have mild steel plates that are punched and coated. I find it hard to believe anyone would bother putting a nice stainless plate in a plastic case. It is still troubling that you would have rust spots, which I would not expect unless the keyboard was a spill victim, you live on a boat, the surface was damaged, or there was a manufacturing defect.
*the nice way to say "cheap"
Hmm do we have the option of not getting our cases anodized? :)Duck has long been known for the quality of his anodized cases... Some might even say they're perfect. This has got to be a first.
Do Stainless steel plates rust over time? Just wondering if i should change to aluminum
Short answer: no.
Pedantic answer: they can under certain conditions. Stainless is very resistant to oxidation, but is not rust proof. Different alloys have different levels of resistance. Environment plays a large part, as moisture and salts can accelerate the process. Realistically, unless you are typing on the beach in salt spray all day long you're unlikely to have oxidation for as long as keyboards are used as an interface. Generally all quality steel alloys are very stable. I don't have any oxidation on my not-even-remotely-stainless kitchen knives and all I do is wipe them down after use.
Ah the reason why I ask is because my "cheap" das keyboard is seeing rust on its plate so was wondering if that will happen with kustoms.
I have no authoritative knowledge of it, but I strongly suspect keyboards engineered to meet a retail price point* will have mild steel plates that are punched and coated. I find it hard to believe anyone would bother putting a nice stainless plate in a plastic case. It is still troubling that you would have rust spots, which I would not expect unless the keyboard was a spill victim, you live on a boat, the surface was damaged, or there was a manufacturing defect.
*the nice way to say "cheap"
Well I live in a dry CA weather here but I do think that the plate is of lower inferior quality in order for the company to have some margins. It isn't the case with Duck tho.
Hmm do we have the option of not getting our cases anodized? :)
Well, if you do want that, it can be an option..lol I'll ask.
Hmm do we have the option of not getting our cases anodized? :)
Well, if you do want that, it can be an option..lol I'll ask.
Also interested in the answer to this one.
Hmm do we have the option of not getting our cases anodized? :)Duck has long been known for the quality of his anodized cases... Some might even say they're perfect. This has got to be a first.
Paid, definitely my most expensive KB related purchase ever.Get what you pay for... You're gonna love it!
Paid!I'm planning either Skidata+ or Skeletor.
So what caps are you guys putting on your Black Birds?
Paid.
Caps-wise, I have the MD carbons coming, which will at least do a modeling session on the board. But I'm thinking black on blacks (I ordered the board in all black) are going to be appropriate - this thing just screams low-profile monochrome. At least to the extent that screams can be low-profile.
Paid!
So what caps are you guys putting on your Black Birds?
Paid!
So what caps are you guys putting on your Black Birds?
Paid!
So what caps are you guys putting on your Black Birds?
Paid. Thank you, elton. Just curious about the estimated shipping time for batch 2...It's about a month after the 1st batch is shipped.
Hi Elton, is there any chance I/we can get the dimension of the board?
I'm planning to make a board sleeve for it and hoping it will be ready before this baby come :)
What happened to the acrylic plate @elton5354? Will it be made?
Why wont there be acrylic plates? Could we get WKL or SPRiT to help us run a GB for them?
Why wont there be acrylic plates? Could we get WKL or SPRiT to help us run a GB for them?
I doubt there will be enough people interested to justify a GB for it...
I'm still thinking about getting one made for myself (depends on how I like the Acrylic plate I get made for my TK78), if anyone is interested in buying one (I won't make profit from it) PM me, if I do end up doing it I'll PM you back with details, just don't expect anything before I had the board for a few days, I'd have to design them basically from scratch.
Do we really need that many for a GB? Plates for WKL are cut custom on order, should be possible to order just a few.
When will the Estimated ship date be for the second batch?
Hi Elton, is there any chance I/we can get the dimension of the board?
I'm planning to make a board sleeve for it and hoping it will be ready before this baby come :)
When will the Estimated ship date be for the second batch?
About a month after the 1st batch. 1st batch will be ready in about a month's time
Why wont there be acrylic plates? Could we get WKL or SPRiT to help us run a GB for them?Hi! I dont know what is going on, but only if you guys want, i may do that in September at $25 Free Shipping Worldwide.
Hi! I dont know what is going on, but only if you guys want, i may do that in September at $25 Free Shipping Worldwide.
As i am a hugh Lover over 5mm Thick Acrylic and Polycarb Plates for their lighting and acoustic effects, as you know.
The drawing is easy job for me, the plate will let the SW Tops open.
Just I want somebody help me to orgarnze the orders to save me time n effortst
Hi! I dont know what is going on, but only if you guys want, i may do that in September at $25 Free Shipping Worldwide.Make the file and maybe I could run it, I don't think you should be doing any more with your history.
As i am a hugh Lover over 5mm Thick Acrylic and Polycarb Plates for their lighting and acoustic effects, as you know.
The drawing is easy job for me, the plate will let the SW Tops open.
Just I want somebody help me to organize the orders to save me time n efforts. No MOQ!
Hi! I dont know what is going on, but only if you guys want, i may do that in September at $25 Free Shipping Worldwide.Make the file and maybe I could run it, I don't think you should be doing any more with your history.
As i am a hugh Lover over 5mm Thick Acrylic and Polycarb Plates for their lighting and acoustic effects, as you know.
The drawing is easy job for me, the plate will let the SW Tops open.
Just I want somebody help me to organize the orders to save me time n efforts. No MOQ!
Its up to me, None of your concern at all.Honestly I have to question what the **** you're doing still taking orders when you're still not fulfilling orders that are years old. You should stay away from anything group buy related if you're a decent person. :rolleyes:
There goes the rest of my tax return. Way too gorgeous of a keyboard to turn down.
If you get a tax return every year that means you're over paying the government throughout the year and they are making money off your over payment via interest. What you're looking for is to pay the least amount of taxes while trying to avoid having to pay more than 100.00 and/or get 100.00 back on your return. That way you have a chance to enjoy more money throughout the year and invest in whatever you want instead of letting the government get rich off you and giving you a false sense of happiness during tax return time =)
Cheers
I work at a tax and accounting office so I hear this a lot, but to be honest it depends a ton on the individual and what they are planning on do with that money in the mean time. If you're getting back less than $1000, that is probably around $40 extra in your paycheck assuming you're paid bi-weekly and a lot of people do not have the financial austerity to actually put that money away, rather they just spend it on an extra dinner date, night at the movies, an online purchase, or something else. Add to that interest rates being awful right now (less than 1% from most banks and CUs) and your $1000 you put away studiously throughout the year earned an extra $10, congrats.
Now if the amount of the refund is a quite a bit higher ($5000+) I will recommend people change withholding so that they get more back through the year, but some people like to treat it as a savings account as it's somewhere that they can't touch it. If that is the case, more power to them, as it's their money and they know themselves better than anyone else and if they know they need to save their money that way I'm just glad they recognize it.
Been busy lately to update the spreadsheet. I will tonight.Yes I am volunteering for plus positive benefits for me and then for some ppl, Basically I am not doing charity as you dont.
In regards to the above messages....lol all I have to say is if you're making money, you're not volunteering....🙄🙄🙄
Been busy lately to update the spreadsheet. I will tonight.Yes I am volunteering for plus positive benefits for me and then for some ppl, Basically I am not doing charity as you dont.
In regards to the above messages....lol all I have to say is if you're making money, you're not volunteering....🙄🙄🙄
Cool down Mr!
Yes I agree you are much better in moral and ethical aspects!
A GB is basically selling and buying at lower price.
And I prefer deploy several things together, its my character as you seen.
Done all of my speach! Thanks! I
This is Duck Black Bird group buy as the title suggests. Whatever other stuff is better off in a separate thread.
Since the payment date is pushed back, if we can pay immediately is it still possible to order? the form is open but didn't want to just assume that was true.You can still order. :)
Am I still ok to order?
OK sorry, just saw that order form still open and also a post above saying that was extended.
Has anyone heard from elton recently?
Has anyone heard from elton recently?
IvanIvanovich group buy member that got burned having flashbacks :eek:
I'm all seriousness I understand real life stuff getting in the way. Just hope to hear from him soon.
IvanIvanovich group buy member that got burned having flashbacks :eek:
I'm all seriousness I understand real life stuff getting in the way. Just hope to hear from him soon.
It's too soon to accuse anything, Elton is a very reputable Duck GB runner
Stay calm guys
It's too soon to accuse anything, Elton is a very reputable Duck GB runner
Stay calm guys
***UPDATE***
Just spoke with Elton and he's currently out of town for work with no access to internet. He will respond when he's back.
I am about to start a group buy to get Elton Internet access...
How about you start an IC first?
Order link still open? Does that mean I can still order???You can but I think all the spots are taken up so if anyone drops out then you might be moved up.
Just emailed Duck and got a reply.
Everything is fine and blackbird is 80% complete so don't worry.
I don't know if it is appropriate to post detailed email content here though.
So let's just wait and see. :thumb:
Duck != elton.Just emailed Duck and got a reply.
Everything is fine and blackbird is 80% complete so don't worry.
I don't know if it is appropriate to post detailed email content here though.
So let's just wait and see. :thumb:
How does he have access to email and not GH to just say that everything is cool?
v weird
Duck != elton.Just emailed Duck and got a reply.
Everything is fine and blackbird is 80% complete so don't worry.
I don't know if it is appropriate to post detailed email content here though.
So let's just wait and see. :thumb:
How does he have access to email and not GH to just say that everything is cool?
v weird
Duck != elton.
Yup. elton organized the buy. He isn't Duck.
Duck != elton.
Thanks for the irrelevant weigh in!Yup. elton organized the buy. He isn't Duck.
Why would duck be the one to relay information to us regarding the GB?
Its the group buy runners responsibility to give updates for their group buy.
Why would duck be the one to relay information to us regarding the GB?
Its the group buy runners responsibility to give updates for their group buy.
Access to email implies access to InternetDuck != elton.
Thanks for the irrelevant weigh in!Yup. elton organized the buy. He isn't Duck.
Why would duck be the one to relay information to us regarding the GB?
Its the group buy runners responsibility to give updates for their group buy.
It's not irrelevant, it was posted in the thread that Elton has no internet access at the moment.
Access to email implies access to Internet
Access to email implies access to Internet
Again: duck is not elton, duck has access to e-mail and internet at the moment, elton hasn't. There was an e-mail sent to duck (again: he is not elton and therefore has access to internet atm), who is the designer and has access to gb information. He gave the person who sent him the e-mail (this person was not elton) the current status and the person who got the information shared it with us. Elton still has no internet access and was not involved in anything of this.
I was part of the group buys for:
Duck keypad
Duck Viper/Eagle
Duck Octagon
Elton is awesome, this indictment of his character is unreasonable.
Duck has never failed to deliver. I have been part of his last 5 GB's.
My $0.02: while not logging in for 20 days is abnormal, there's really not much else to do. If you've participated, you are protected by Paypal for 180 days, so there's no real merit to getting antsy and casting doubt, because even if said doubt is well-founded, it brings no benefit to the current situation. Just sit tight and wait for an update. Blind speculation is rarely helpful.
Do you want me to list the successfully run GBs by IvanIvanovich? Do you want me to link you to people saying what you just said about him when he went radio silent???
This is not to say that Elton == IvanIvanovich, I am merely pointing out that it would be foolish not to question some of these things. If we keep blindly defending these GB organizers you are going to get burned sooner or later.
Bottom line is people have $430+ riding on this, I think it is a understandable that they get antsy when the person they sent that money to hasn't logged on in ~20 days.
Do you want me to list the successfully run GBs by IvanIvanovich? Do you want me to link you to people saying what you just said about him when he went radio silent???
This is not to say that Elton == IvanIvanovich, I am merely pointing out that it would be foolish not to question some of these things. If we keep blindly defending these GB organizers you are going to get burned sooner or later.
Bottom line is people have $430+ riding on this, I think it is a understandable that they get antsy when the person they sent that money to hasn't logged on in ~20 days.
With that said I am eagerly awaiting getting my Blackbird :)) (dat Round 2 wait tho :-[).
There was an update from Duck a while back that production was occurring but haven't heard anything besides that myself so I am curious too.
From the korean GBNow I'm really glad I bought this board... Man that **** is hot.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rBDpWKY.jpg)
From the korean GBShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/rBDpWKY.jpg)
From the korean GBShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/rBDpWKY.jpg)
From the korean GBShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/rBDpWKY.jpg)
From the korean GBShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/rBDpWKY.jpg)
Didn't this GB just close sometime mid August (paid invoice by Aug. 19th)?
It's mid September...wtf can you people possibly be freaking out about. 60 boards are being produced, and that doesn't even account for the Korean GB.
Chill out pls :cool:
Didn't this GB just close sometime mid August (paid invoice by Aug. 19th)?
It's mid September...wtf can you people possibly be freaking out about. 60 boards are being produced, and that doesn't even account for the Korean GB.
Chill out pls :cool:
Not freaking out,
Just wanted to see if there was any kind of update as the thread hasn't had activity for a few days.
I have no doubts everything is going well.
People from the Korean GB got their boards a week ago...
Rumour is that viper/eagle will be the next GB from Duck. It's been a long wait for many. Personally I'm waiting for Lightsaver.
Rumour is that viper/eagle will be the next GB from Duck. It's been a long wait for many. Personally I'm waiting for Lightsaver.It's live in Korea.
Rumour is that viper/eagle will be the next GB from Duck. It's been a long wait for many. Personally I'm waiting for Lightsaver.It's live in Korea.
Will it be available in the US?Probably a couple of months at least... Octagon to Blackbird was 6 months.
Where is Elton when you need him haha
Hi guys
Guess who's back?!?!
Ok I'm going to review all the PMs today and if anyone of you needs an address change that didn't PM me yet, please do so ASAP. Shipping for batch 1 is coming up, well, it is ready, my work kept me tired and away from updating.
So I will get this done by today and tomorrow. So PLEASE PM ME IF YOU HAVEN"T ALREADY. I can't add anything at this point though, sorry.
Hi guys
Guess who's back?!?!
Ok I'm going to review all the PMs today and if anyone of you needs an address change that didn't PM me yet, please do so ASAP. Shipping for batch 1 is coming up, well, it is ready, my work kept me tired and away from updating.
So I will get this done by today and tomorrow. So PLEASE PM ME IF YOU HAVEN"T ALREADY. I can't add anything at this point though, sorry.
Hi guys
Guess who's back?!?!
Ok I'm going to review all the PMs today and if anyone of you needs an address change that didn't PM me yet, please do so ASAP. Shipping for batch 1 is coming up, well, it is ready, my work kept me tired and away from updating.
So I will get this done by today and tomorrow. So PLEASE PM ME IF YOU HAVEN"T ALREADY. I can't add anything at this point though, sorry.
Still can't add if we're in batch 2?
Are the batch sizes still 30?
Hi guys
Guess who's back?!?!
Ok I'm going to review all the PMs today and if anyone of you needs an address change that didn't PM me yet, please do so ASAP. Shipping for batch 1 is coming up, well, it is ready, my work kept me tired and away from updating.
So I will get this done by today and tomorrow. So PLEASE PM ME IF YOU HAVEN"T ALREADY. I can't add anything at this point though, sorry.
Hi guys
Guess who's back?!?!
Ok I'm going to review all the PMs today and if anyone of you needs an address change that didn't PM me yet, please do so ASAP. Shipping for batch 1 is coming up, well, it is ready, my work kept me tired and away from updating.
So I will get this done by today and tomorrow. So PLEASE PM ME IF YOU HAVEN"T ALREADY. I can't add anything at this point though, sorry.
Yes they are.
The 2nd batch won't be long after
Glad to see you back Elton. I was just about to file dispute and I'm glad I didn't. :p
Glad to see you back Elton. I was just about to file dispute and I'm glad I didn't. :pwho is this beautiful man I see?
Ok, no more changes in the 1st batch?! If so, I'll send it in and it will be shipped as is then.
Ok, no more changes in the 1st batch?! If so, I'll send it in and it will be shipped as is then.
Ok, no more changes in the 1st batch?! If so, I'll send it in and it will be shipped as is then.
Ok, no more changes in the 1st batch?! If so, I'll send it in and it will be shipped as is then.Good to go :thumb:
Ok, no more changes in the 1st batch?! If so, I'll send it in and it will be shipped as is then.
Is this GB still open or am I too late? :(This train seems to be looooong gone
What button do you guys use to access the F keys?
Ok, no more changes in the 1st batch?! If so, I'll send it in and it will be shipped as is then.Could you add me to the 2nd batch? When will it happen?
Ok, no more changes in the 1st batch?! If so, I'll send it in and it will be shipped as is then.Could you add me to the 2nd batch? When will it happen?
Ok, no more changes in the 1st batch?! If so, I'll send it in and it will be shipped as is then.Could you add me to the 2nd batch? When will it happen?
1st and 2nd batch are already ordered and paid for
Just curious, I know the original post mentions support for RGB and SMD LEDs. Does anyone know if that's referring to the handful around the edge of the casing, or if there's any type of backlighting for the keys that's possible?
Did you guys realize the banner in the original post changed to Viper and Eagle v2? When is that happening?
- Order ONLY if you can pay the invoice by the deadline (August 19, 2016)
paid :)
joined the gb 3 days ago ;)
- Order ONLY if you can pay the invoice by the deadline (August 19, 2016)paid :)
;)
Just curious what everyone else's plans are with this? This is my first custom, and I'm looking forward to diving in when the time comes.
I went black / black anodization, and picked up two of Rama's SS Liquid Black keys (http://rama.works/store/rama-ss-x-liquid-black-kc-mx) for Esc / Delete. Was thinking I would grab some black pbt side-printed caps like Geekkey's (http://www.geekkeys.com/geekkeys-black-side-printed-thick-pbt-full-keyset/) (for the full stealth look), and put them on Zeal's R4 65g switches & stabs (https://zealpc.net/collections/switches/products/zealio).
joined the gb 3 days ago ;)
- Order ONLY if you can pay the invoice by the deadline (August 19, 2016)paid :)
How did you join after the group buy date was over?
;)
Just curious what everyone else's plans are with this? This is my first custom, and I'm looking forward to diving in when the time comes.
I went black / black anodization, and picked up two of Rama's SS Liquid Black keys (http://rama.works/store/rama-ss-x-liquid-black-kc-mx) for Esc / Delete. Was thinking I would grab some black pbt side-printed caps like Geekkey's (http://www.geekkeys.com/geekkeys-black-side-printed-thick-pbt-full-keyset/) (for the full stealth look), and put them on Zeal's R4 65g switches & stabs (https://zealpc.net/collections/switches/products/zealio).
That'll be very slick for a first custom !! Have you ever typed on lubed zealios? It's one of those things that sounds like overkill but once you take the time to do it, you never wanna go back to stock switches. I'd consider it the last step to take your board to god-tier, and would be worth considering beforehand given that the black bird plate doesn't support switch-top removal :cool:
SKIDATA BB!! YEEEEE....Same here. Skidata+ with lubed ergo-clears. Zealios wobble too much for my liking.
Just curious what everyone else's plans are with this? This is my first custom, and I'm looking forward to diving in when the time comes.
I went black / black anodization, and picked up two of Rama's SS Liquid Black keys (http://rama.works/store/rama-ss-x-liquid-black-kc-mx) for Esc / Delete. Was thinking I would grab some black pbt side-printed caps like Geekkey's (http://www.geekkeys.com/geekkeys-black-side-printed-thick-pbt-full-keyset/) (for the full stealth look), and put them on Zeal's R4 65g switches & stabs (https://zealpc.net/collections/switches/products/zealio).
That'll be very slick for a first custom !! Have you ever typed on lubed zealios? It's one of those things that sounds like overkill but once you take the time to do it, you never wanna go back to stock switches. I'd consider it the last step to take your board to god-tier, and would be worth considering beforehand given that the black bird plate doesn't support switch-top removal :cool:
That's very much personal preference. I dislike lubed zealios.
How did you join after the group buy date was over?messaged elton and he said there was still space in batch 2
Those of us in the bay should have a blackbird family photo.
I'm probably going to use modded aristotles of some kind. Maybe even going off the deep end and pulling apart 3 different kinds of switches and making a super frankenswitch. It will get the PBT blue and red Hangul set from originative once it shows up.
sooo where's the eagle / viper gb?
sooo where's the eagle / viper gb?
In Korea.
The first international batch of the Black Bird isn't even shipped, so I'd guess it is at least one and a half months (probably longer) until the eagle/viper GB is live.
The reason for the picture in the opening post is probably just Duck who uploaded it and used the same url for it as for the Black Bird pic, thus overwriting it. I'm very sure it was not elton, because it changed before he logged in again.
When will the Estimated ship date be for the second batch?
About a month after the 1st batch. 1st batch will be ready in about a month's time
Just curious what everyone else's plans are with this? This is my first custom, and I'm looking forward to diving in when the time comes.
I went black / black anodization, and picked up two of Rama's SS Liquid Black keys (http://rama.works/store/rama-ss-x-liquid-black-kc-mx) for Esc / Delete. Was thinking I would grab some black pbt side-printed caps like Geekkey's (http://www.geekkeys.com/geekkeys-black-side-printed-thick-pbt-full-keyset/) (for the full stealth look), and put them on Zeal's R4 65g switches & stabs (https://zealpc.net/collections/switches/products/zealio).
That'll be very slick for a first custom !! Have you ever typed on lubed zealios? It's one of those things that sounds like overkill but once you take the time to do it, you never wanna go back to stock switches. I'd consider it the last step to take your board to god-tier, and would be worth considering beforehand given that the black bird plate doesn't support switch-top removal :cool:
That's very much personal preference. I dislike lubed zealios.
That's totally fair, everything is preference. But I'd say on average people really like the lubed counterpart to their favorite switch; you're the first I've heard announce dislike for a lubed zealio - it just makes it sound less plasticky and feels more consistent imo. Maybe you typed on swamped switches? Who knows.
Still i suggest you guys to lube the spring to get rid of the springing and creaky sound ;)Just curious what everyone else's plans are with this? This is my first custom, and I'm looking forward to diving in when the time comes.
I went black / black anodization, and picked up two of Rama's SS Liquid Black keys (http://rama.works/store/rama-ss-x-liquid-black-kc-mx) for Esc / Delete. Was thinking I would grab some black pbt side-printed caps like Geekkey's (http://www.geekkeys.com/geekkeys-black-side-printed-thick-pbt-full-keyset/) (for the full stealth look), and put them on Zeal's R4 65g switches & stabs (https://zealpc.net/collections/switches/products/zealio).
That'll be very slick for a first custom !! Have you ever typed on lubed zealios? It's one of those things that sounds like overkill but once you take the time to do it, you never wanna go back to stock switches. I'd consider it the last step to take your board to god-tier, and would be worth considering beforehand given that the black bird plate doesn't support switch-top removal :cool:
That's very much personal preference. I dislike lubed zealios.
That's totally fair, everything is preference. But I'd say on average people really like the lubed counterpart to their favorite switch; you're the first I've heard announce dislike for a lubed zealio - it just makes it sound less plasticky and feels more consistent imo. Maybe you typed on swamped switches? Who knows.
fwiw, I dislike lubed Zealios also - I like the 67g Zealios because of the big tactile bump and lubing them (even lightly) loses some of that bump from my experience.
^^ this^^ and maybe the sliders + bottom of the housing for more sound dampening/smoothness. That should leave the tactile bump mostly intact? I can totally see why yall would love the zealio as is, it lacks any noticeable scratchiness and has a crisp bump; I was just suggesting to the guy to try lubing them at some point if he hasn't had the chance. In other news, I'm excited to try out some MOD switches, they look like the real deal.
Tracking is up!!!! ;D
Tracking is up!!!! ;D
^^ this^^ and maybe the sliders + bottom of the housing for more sound dampening/smoothness. That should leave the tactile bump mostly intact? I can totally see why yall would love the zealio as is, it lacks any noticeable scratchiness and has a crisp bump; I was just suggesting to the guy to try lubing them at some point if he hasn't had the chance. In other news, I'm excited to try out some MOD switches, they look like the real deal.
I've been at this custom keyboard business since 2011...I've tried all the various switch mods and know what I like and what I don't lol. I prefer MOD switches to zealios, but from your posts it sounds like you're going to prefer zealios.
^^ this^^ and maybe the sliders + bottom of the housing for more sound dampening/smoothness. That should leave the tactile bump mostly intact? I can totally see why yall would love the zealio as is, it lacks any noticeable scratchiness and has a crisp bump; I was just suggesting to the guy to try lubing them at some point if he hasn't had the chance. In other news, I'm excited to try out some MOD switches, they look like the real deal.
I've been at this custom keyboard business since 2011...I've tried all the various switch mods and know what I like and what I don't lol. I prefer MOD switches to zealios, but from your posts it sounds like you're going to prefer zealios.
I was directing my harmless suggestion toward paulforgione, not you. Sorry if I somehow undermined your deep knowledge of switches, oh holy keeb lord est. 2011.
^^ this^^ and maybe the sliders + bottom of the housing for more sound dampening/smoothness. That should leave the tactile bump mostly intact? I can totally see why yall would love the zealio as is, it lacks any noticeable scratchiness and has a crisp bump; I was just suggesting to the guy to try lubing them at some point if he hasn't had the chance. In other news, I'm excited to try out some MOD switches, they look like the real deal.
I've been at this custom keyboard business since 2011...I've tried all the various switch mods and know what I like and what I don't lol. I prefer MOD switches to zealios, but from your posts it sounds like you're going to prefer zealios.
I was directing my harmless suggestion toward paulforgione, not you. Sorry if I somehow undermined your deep knowledge of switches, oh holy keeb lord est. 2011.
Yep, sorry about that, misread that in my haste while reading that in a short amount of time while at the hospital.
As for my comment, I wouldn't get your hopes up on the mod switches as it seems you're much more smoothness-oriented. Sheraton from originative is another one that prefers ergo clears to zealios and MODs definitely aren't as smooth as zealios.
Tracking is up!!!! ;D
Tracking is up!!!! ;D
Thanks for the heads up!
...And I'm #31 of 30 shipped.
Is tracking getting posted on Paypal? I'm in the first 30 and havent received tracking yet.
Is tracking getting posted on Paypal? I'm in the first 30 and havent received tracking yet.
Oh wow I didn't even notice it got shipped. Just checked and it's in my country already.
Hoping that Elton undervalued the package...
Just received and opened mine! It's like a f'ing treasure hunt tearing through the complexity of packaging. I love it! So well packaged that it's the gold standard.
I second that!Just received and opened mine! It's like a f'ing treasure hunt tearing through the complexity of packaging. I love it! So well packaged that it's the gold standard.
Any pics? I'd love to see a bit more than just the pics from Duck's blog
Same here! :)I second that!Just received and opened mine! It's like a f'ing treasure hunt tearing through the complexity of packaging. I love it! So well packaged that it's the gold standard.
Any pics? I'd love to see a bit more than just the pics from Duck's blog
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mine was out for delivery and then back to post office. Dang!
Should I go with Gateron black or Vintage black? Decisions..
Heres my finished build with Gat Blacks and JTK Stormtrooper, patiently waiting for GMK Stormtrooper ;D This is my first Duck board and I am very happy with the quality of this board and it feels like a tankMoarrrrr pictures please the side, the bottom, the backShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/4GJ0oc9.jpg)
Heres my finished build with Gat Blacks and JTK Stormtrooper, patiently waiting for GMK Stormtrooper ;D This is my first Duck board and I am very happy with the quality of this board and it feels like a tankIT'S BEAUTIFUL :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/4GJ0oc9.jpg)
So, BB doesn't support switchtop removal? The pressure...
AFAIK all kustom don't support switch top removal
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
I have one board (not a Duck) that supports switch top removal and it's wobbly as hell. I'm not a fan.AFAIK all kustom don't support switch top removal
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Indeed, the thought is that the cutouts make for less stable mounting in the plate.
Which type of cutout is this?I have one board (not a Duck) that supports switch top removal and it's wobbly as hell. I'm not a fan.AFAIK all kustom don't support switch top removal
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Indeed, the thought is that the cutouts make for less stable mounting in the plate.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I can send a pic a little later when I get around to it. It's a RS84Which type of cutout is this?I have one board (not a Duck) that supports switch top removal and it's wobbly as hell. I'm not a fan.AFAIK all kustom don't support switch top removal
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Indeed, the thought is that the cutouts make for less stable mounting in the plate.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I can send a pic a little later when I get around to it. It's a RS84Which type of cutout is this?I have one board (not a Duck) that supports switch top removal and it's wobbly as hell. I'm not a fan.AFAIK all kustom don't support switch top removal
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Indeed, the thought is that the cutouts make for less stable mounting in the plate.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here's a few phone pics for those that wanted them... waiting on Zeal's GB to start assembly. I just stacked the parts up to give you all an idea, so if tolerances don't look quite right, that's why. I'm no photographer, so don't judge.I think these are great pictures! Thank you! :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/b0xfzMQ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YBPKGMq.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QNwfDQ6.jpg)
Full imgur post here. (http://imgur.com/a/jadQU)
Oh my its so prettyHere's a few phone pics for those that wanted them... waiting on Zeal's GB to start assembly. I just stacked the parts up to give you all an idea, so if tolerances don't look quite right, that's why. I'm no photographer, so don't judge.I think these are great pictures! Thank you! :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/b0xfzMQ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YBPKGMq.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QNwfDQ6.jpg)
Full imgur post here. (http://imgur.com/a/jadQU)
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
Here's a few phone pics for those that wanted them... waiting on Zeal's GB to start assembly. I just stacked the parts up to give you all an idea, so if tolerances don't look quite right, that's why. I'm no photographer, so don't judge.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/b0xfzMQ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YBPKGMq.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QNwfDQ6.jpg)
Full imgur post here. (http://imgur.com/a/jadQU)
What do you mean by that please explainHere's a few phone pics for those that wanted them... waiting on Zeal's GB to start assembly. I just stacked the parts up to give you all an idea, so if tolerances don't look quite right, that's why. I'm no photographer, so don't judge.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/b0xfzMQ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YBPKGMq.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QNwfDQ6.jpg)
Full imgur post here. (http://imgur.com/a/jadQU)
I wish duck would glass bead his keyboards. only reason I got rid of my orion.
I wish duck would glass bead his keyboards. only reason I got rid of my orion.What do you mean by that please explain
Dude thanks for sharing! I'm SO geeked for mine (R2)!Here's a few phone pics for those that wanted them... waiting on Zeal's GB to start assembly. I just stacked the parts up to give you all an idea, so if tolerances don't look quite right, that's why. I'm no photographer, so don't judge.I think these are great pictures! Thank you! :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/b0xfzMQ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YBPKGMq.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QNwfDQ6.jpg)
Full imgur post here. (http://imgur.com/a/jadQU)
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
What I mean by that is the texture on the aluminum. I'm no expert, but as you can see it is a grainy texture finish on duck keyboards. I'm not sure what method he used but a shop told me you can achieve a nice smooth texture by glass bead blasting. All my other keyboards have a very fine texture and I am a huge fan of that.
What I mean by that is the texture on the aluminum. I'm no expert, but as you can see it is a grainy texture finish on duck keyboards. I'm not sure what method he used but a shop told me you can achieve a nice smooth texture by glass bead blasting. All my other keyboards have a very fine texture and I am a huge fan of that.
I think this is more preference than quality. If it is a smooth finish it shows imperfections much easier.
Erm some help with configuring the back rgb colours please? Anyone?
Erm some help with configuring the back rgb colours please? Anyone?
There is a tutorial for this on KBDlab (there also is a keymapping tutorial there), it's in Korean though, so I didn't get that much info out of it.
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=370119&mid=board_sw
What I mean by that is the texture on the aluminum. I'm no expert, but as you can see it is a grainy texture finish on duck keyboards. I'm not sure what method he used but a shop told me you can achieve a nice smooth texture by glass bead blasting. All my other keyboards have a very fine texture and I am a huge fan of that.I think this is more preference than quality. If it is a smooth finish it shows imperfections much easier.
Here (http://www.adamfalwell.com/projects/octagon/assets/lightsaverv2-layout-editing-and-updating-tutorial.pdf) is a Tutorial for the O2D keymapper, the mapping works the same way for the Black Bird, just be sure to use the version duzeyao linked.
(I hope this post will be submitted this time)
Here (http://www.adamfalwell.com/projects/octagon/assets/lightsaverv2-layout-editing-and-updating-tutorial.pdf) is a Tutorial for the O2D keymapper, the mapping works the same way for the Black Bird, just be sure to use the version duzeyao linked.
(I hope this post will be submitted this time)
Oh. This is to say that I have to map the rgb control keys, and reflash before I can test the back RGBs? Hmn... that's a bit weird but ok I can try to do that.
Forgive me if I missed it, but are there dimensions/hole locations posted for what looks like a weight insert cavity?
How do I configure the 8 status LEDs?
Okay one last issue I am having with the programmer. I can't seem to be able to map the cursor/arrow keys. They just show ? in the mapping GUI and will leave the key empty when I switch layers back and forth. Anyone else experiencing this?
Okay one last issue I am having with the programmer. I can't seem to be able to map the cursor/arrow keys. They just show ? in the mapping GUI and will leave the key empty when I switch layers back and forth. Anyone else experiencing this?
You have to install the Korean language package to windows for this to work.
These korean boards are rilllllll sexy, but damn, why does programming them have to be so convoluted?
I thought it was ok but i wish there would be more control over the LEDs like brightness level and individual key lighting options.These korean boards are rilllllll sexy, but damn, why does programming them have to be so convoluted?
Programming a leeku PCB is a pain.
These korean boards are rilllllll sexy, but damn, why does programming them have to be so convoluted?
Programming a leeku PCB is a pain.
These korean boards are rilllllll sexy, but damn, why does programming them have to be so convoluted?
Programming a leeku PCB is a pain.
Wat? Took me all of 5 minutes with JigOn...
I thought it was ok but i wish there would be more control over the LEDs like brightness level and individual key lighting options.These korean boards are rilllllll sexy, but damn, why does programming them have to be so convoluted?
Programming a leeku PCB is a pain.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
where are my feet tho elton chanmanlook down
Can someone tell me which key is the flip key? thnxLeft of numlock.
Finished assembling my Blackbird! Forgot I don't have an split plus key for the numpad so had to temporarily fill it with artisans. Damnit. Really like this keyset on this board so want to get those two keys.
That does look awesome - great build!! So ready for mine to arrive, come on wave 2! What key set is that black on grey? And fugus to the rescue- what can't those guys do (besides come to my house in a raffle win...)?
Finished assembling my Blackbird! Forgot I don't have an split plus key for the numpad so had to temporarily fill it with artisans. Damnit. Really like this keyset on this board so want to get those two keys.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rY57Wfi.jpg)
Whoah, you mirrored my bottom row. Nice build!
Guess who is still waiting on Skeletor :(?
Err what's the bottom row layout for the HHKB version?Not exactly sure if this is what you're looking for but here
Is anyone experiencing weird stuff like drivers crash and stuff when you plug blackbird?
I am also experiencing double typing very often, should I flash the chip?
Is anyone experiencing weird stuff like drivers crash and stuff when you plug blackbird?
I am also experiencing double typing very often, should I flash the chip?
I experienced neither. Have you tried a different USB cable first? Sometimes those cause more trouble than they are worth, especially when you try flashing with a bad cable.
I totally ****ed up my Spacebar stabilizer placement and realized after I soldered all the switches.Err what's the bottom row layout for the HHKB version?Not exactly sure if this is what you're looking for but hereShow Image(http://cfile30.uf.tistory.com/image/246A7D4956EAA5EA0182BE)
I totally ****ed up my Spacebar stabilizer placement and realized after I soldered all the switches.
It was either resolder everything or add blue tac to the Spacebar itself to make it work. Or run with what I had and have a janky looking bottom row.
x-posting :)
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8589/30478199582_6d5087e2b4_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/NrfJTG)
x-posting :)
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8589/30478199582_6d5087e2b4_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/NrfJTG)
x-posting :)
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8589/30478199582_6d5087e2b4_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/NrfJTG)
not finish yet, but it's so good to meShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/bINCi3S.jpg)
x-posting :)
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8589/30478199582_6d5087e2b4_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/NrfJTG)
Show ImageShow ImageShow ImageShow Imagex-posting :)
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8589/30478199582_6d5087e2b4_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/NrfJTG)
Blackbird - 1 (https://flic.kr/p/NrfJTG) by Hanshen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jokrik/), on Flickr
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8583/30595316215_2ab64b54de_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/NBAZzZ)
Blackbird - 2 (https://flic.kr/p/NBAZzZ) by Hanshen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jokrik/), on Flickr
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5766/30295538650_592bb5815f_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Na7yah)
Blackbird - 3 (https://flic.kr/p/Na7yah) by Hanshen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jokrik/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5614/29963103344_908b883501_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MDJJJ5)
Blackbird - 4 (https://flic.kr/p/MDJJJ5) by Hanshen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jokrik/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5826/30295544320_b96ff6beac_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Na7zR3)
Blackbird - 5 (https://flic.kr/p/Na7zR3) by Hanshen (https://www.flickr.com/photos/jokrik/), on Flickr
Long shot but anyone know the 3M PN for the included adhesive feet? They're pretty dope and I want them for my other boards.
Long shot but anyone know the 3M PN for the included adhesive feet? They're pretty dope and I want them for my other boards.
Hey guys, would love some help on this. I finished soldering my board today and it's acting very strange - the majority of the switches in the 60% portion of the board actuate 3 or 4 times with each key press, and will actuate once with even the slightest tap on the top of the switch, way before the actuation point. The switches are all lubed zealios which were harvested from a previous build where they worked flawlessly. I know this sounds like a case of terrible soldering but this is probably my 12th board soldered and I've never had any issues, even with the notoriously sensitive leeku pcbs. I consider myself a relatively decent solderer... I've attached some pictures of my solders from this build.
I just reflashed the pcb with the newest firmware using Flip and nothing changed. I also inspected the pcb in the areas where the keys work properly and there's no discernible difference between those and the vast majority of the switches which are acting up. Strangely, all of the numbers on the numpad work perfectly, which seems like a controller issue of some sort? I have no clue. I think the most telling symptom is the fact that the switches actuate way before the leaf mechanism makes contact within the switch; I've never heard of anything like that before so if anyone has any insight I'd really appreciate it.
EDIT: Nvm, I replaced a couple of the switches with stock ones and they all work just fine. Must have bent the leafs or something silly when I was lubing ? Whatever. RIP my time.
Hey guys, would love some help on this. I finished soldering my board today and it's acting very strange - the majority of the switches in the 60% portion of the board actuate 3 or 4 times with each key press, and will actuate once with even the slightest tap on the top of the switch, way before the actuation point. The switches are all lubed zealios which were harvested from a previous build where they worked flawlessly. I know this sounds like a case of terrible soldering but this is probably my 12th board soldered and I've never had any issues, even with the notoriously sensitive leeku pcbs. I consider myself a relatively decent solderer... I've attached some pictures of my solders from this build.
I just reflashed the pcb with the newest firmware using Flip and nothing changed. I also inspected the pcb in the areas where the keys work properly and there's no discernible difference between those and the vast majority of the switches which are acting up. Strangely, all of the numbers on the numpad work perfectly, which seems like a controller issue of some sort? I have no clue. I think the most telling symptom is the fact that the switches actuate way before the leaf mechanism makes contact within the switch; I've never heard of anything like that before so if anyone has any insight I'd really appreciate it.
EDIT: Nvm, I replaced a couple of the switches with stock ones and they all work just fine. Must have bent the leafs or something silly when I was lubing ? Whatever. RIP my time.
It's called chatter and it happens on Zealios when you heat them up for too long when you solder. Here is a link describing the issue: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/3ywihq/keyboard_science_this_is_why_some_tactile_zealios/
EDIT: Nvm, I replaced a couple of the switches with stock ones and they all work just fine. Must have bent the leafs or something silly when I was lubing ? Whatever. RIP my time.
Long shot but anyone know the 3M PN for the included adhesive feet? They're pretty dope and I want them for my other boards.
Can someone take a pic of these feet? I work in my company's buying dept and we carry a lot of 3M hooks & adhesives - I might be able to get some insight here.
Long shot but anyone know the 3M PN for the included adhesive feet? They're pretty dope and I want them for my other boards.
Can someone take a pic of these feet? I work in my company's buying dept and we carry a lot of 3M hooks & adhesives - I might be able to get some insight here.
Long shot but anyone know the 3M PN for the included adhesive feet? They're pretty dope and I want them for my other boards.
Can someone take a pic of these feet? I work in my company's buying dept and we carry a lot of 3M hooks & adhesives - I might be able to get some insight here.
Thanks for looking into it! It feels like thin sorbothane.MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZDuCIsc.jpg)
Ayy, a fellow member of the Purchasing life. Buying at work so we can buy at home.
Ayy, a fellow member of the Purchasing life. Buying at work so we can buy at home.
I'm fortunately in an analytical and technical role, supporting the buying teams with reporting & insights. Very low stress position compared to the madness going on around me, as long as my data is accurate there's not much else I'm responsible for.
Thanks for looking into it! It feels like thin sorbothane.MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZDuCIsc.jpg)
The buyer looked through their product catalog and has 2 thoughts on what it might be. If sold pre-cut then the only rectangular product that low in height would be SJ61B15 (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Electronics_NA/Electronics/Products/Electronics_Product_Catalog/~/3M-Bumpon-Protective-Product-SJ61B15-Black-3000-per-case?N=8704948+3294734845&rt=rud). However, based on the image they believe it's far more likely to be roll stock (purchased in a bulk roll and cut down which from a pricing perspective is at least 3x more cost efficient). We couldn't tell the thickness but guessed ~1/8 inch, which led to SJ5808 (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Electronics_NA/Electronics/Products/Electronics_Product_Catalog/~/Electronics-Products-Catalog/Cushioning-Materials/Bumpon-Products/?Ntt=sj5808&rt=rs&x=0&y=0).
I did a little cursory searching and didn't find much by way of consumer purchasing opportunities for either of these. Sadly the best deal on the rollstock looks to come from Grainger (https://www.grainger.com/product/45K760?gclid=CjwKEAjw-uDABRDPz4-0tp6T6lMSJADNoyPbYuHztnrKTFLQ8bDgvhuC-NsXci_ZXGW92iF61-l7BRoCZ3_w_wcB&cm_mmc=PPC:GOOGLEPLAA-_-Office%20Supplies-_-Office%20Organizers-_-45K760&AL!2966!3!50916763797!!!g!82166218797!&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!50916763797!!!g!82166218797!&ef_id=WAZyfAAAAQC5q@yx:20161101180224:s)at ~$71 USD
Any news on the round 2 ship date/status?
Hello, I am the GB organizer for the Octagon V2 weight insert. I have been approached by several participants and asked whether I would be providing something similar for the Black Bird.Somebody please throw Merlin some measurements lets make the bird a bit more hefty
I expressed interest in doing so, but first I would need some accurate measurements and/or CAD files to give a firm answer. Does anyone here have any information that can point me in the right direction? Thank you.
Do you have a steel counter? I am afraid that if this thing gets heavier it will leave marks on my wooden table like my monitor does.Hello, I am the GB organizer for the Octagon V2 weight insert. I have been approached by several participants and asked whether I would be providing something similar for the Black Bird.Somebody please throw Merlin some measurements lets make the bird a bit more hefty
I expressed interest in doing so, but first I would need some accurate measurements and/or CAD files to give a firm answer. Does anyone here have any information that can point me in the right direction? Thank you.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Hello, I am the GB organizer for the Octagon V2 weight insert. I have been approached by several participants and asked whether I would be providing something similar for the Black Bird.
I expressed interest in doing so, but first I would need some accurate measurements and/or CAD files to give a firm answer. Does anyone here have any information that can point me in the right direction? Thank you.
Hello, I am the GB organizer for the Octagon V2 weight insert. I have been approached by several participants and asked whether I would be providing something similar for the Black Bird.
I expressed interest in doing so, but first I would need some accurate measurements and/or CAD files to give a firm answer. Does anyone here have any information that can point me in the right direction? Thank you.
HelloWoohoo thanks for the much anticipated update Elton!
It is time for the 2nd batch to ship. LAST CALL FOR ADDRESS CHANGES!
I'll give everyone 24 hours
Anyone know how long it will take to arrive in the USA? Rough ETA?
Hello
It is time for the 2nd batch to ship. LAST CALL FOR ADDRESS CHANGES!
I'll give everyone 24 hours
Ship ship ship juju bump
I wonder if round two has shipped yet...
I wonder if round two has shipped yet...
Haha, I'm having nightmares that it will arrive while I'm away for Thanksgiving.
Where did Elton go:(Don't worry, he'll be back. He always comes back. ;D
Where did Elton go:(Don't worry, he'll be back. He always comes back. ;D
Wow im interested in seeing your stripper keyset to go with that exotic keyboard you haveWhere did Elton go:(Don't worry, he'll be back. He always comes back. ;D
Thats what mom said :'( Now I'm a stripper addicted to crazy things like keyboards. Flashbacks, ahhh
Something is very wrong with by board. When I press the FLIP key in normal use strange stuff happens, depending on how I press it. If I press it slowly nothing happens, if I press it fast once RGB LED8 and 9 turn off, and when I press it fast repeatedly RGB LED10 also turns off. I doubt anyone knows what is going on, but maybe someone can help me with troubleshooting.Mine has done that since the day I received mine but I thought nothing of it so I just left it. I also left the firmware stock and haven't touched it with O2D to change anything yet as well. I dont know the exact LED's since I haven't taken it apart but its the lights facing me to the right.
Something is very wrong with by board. When I press the FLIP key in normal use strange stuff happens, depending on how I press it. If I press it slowly nothing happens, if I press it fast once RGB LED8 and 9 turn off, and when I press it fast repeatedly RGB LED10 also turns off. I doubt anyone knows what is going on, but maybe someone can help me with troubleshooting.Mine has done that since the day I received mine but I thought nothing of it so I just left it. I also left the firmware stock and haven't touched it with O2D to change anything yet as well. I dont know the exact LED's since I haven't taken it apart but its the lights facing me to the right.
Can someone familiar with the firmware help me out, whenever I go to upload my board and connect the "file open" stays blank and the "upload" as well. I've never used Ducks firmware and I am very confused. I cant seem to get it to work on my Octagon or Blackbird
Second batch tracking info was added to the sheet.
Second batch tracking info was added to the sheet.
whenever I go to save my custom layout I just get a runtime error 76 "no path found" and it doesn't save my layout and closes out the program. I know how to do the flip keys but I feel like im missing something very obvious.You have to change the file name... So for instance you might get a "Save As" filename that looks like 02D_Custom_v1.9.640_BlackBird_11/20/2016_230709.hex . Change this to something simple, like "blackbird" and click save. It will then save the file to the destination where the exe is located. I'm pretty familiar with the process if you need more help, PM me.
Is there a guide to the firmware?On page 8 - Post #376 to #383 it's discussed. Look at the PDF linked in #383 it's spot on. Make sure you're using the newest edition of 02D
Anyone have any idea of when Viper/Eagle is gonna go up?
Ok Guys! I noticed that some of the tracking numbers are mixed up. I'm one of the people that changed their shipping address last minute so I'm guessing that is what is the cause of the mix-up. If your package associated with your tracking number seems to be in some random place that's not yours, you might wanna check other people's tracking numbers in the google docs page. For example, I found my shipping address to be in SixtyLife's slot! So don't panic like I did at first. :pgood catch.. was pretty confused why my item was out for delivery from stockton but didn't think too much of it as it's not tooo far.
Putting a message out here to see if I can get some help.
Duck has provided me with the CAD files for the weight insert for the Black Bird. I'm manufacturing a prototype right now and I am looking for anyone nearby who would be willing to test fit (I don't have a black bird). I live in Seattle WA, USA. Please send me a PM or post in my IC if you're able to. Thanks.
http://kbdlab.co.kr/?module=file&act=procFileDownload&file_srl=3954395&sid=49545b3e2ea4d6da5b724407c81b8c12
This is the latest keymapper i believe. I used this to do mine. its from an older reply some pages back on this post
Hi guys, Viper/Eagle V2 GB is coming up shortly!
What is the button to depress when trying to enter DFU mode?
Having issues figuring out how to program my Blackbird
What is the button to depress when trying to enter DFU mode?
Having issues figuring out how to program my Blackbird
Mind sharing your layout, I too have the HHKB layout and am not sure the best way to set it up.
If anyone with acrylic plate wants to sell or change for SS plate, let me know.
Hey, so i am trying to do the key map for my blackbird. I downloaded the mapper above and selected the blackbird drop down option, but i am confused how i save the hex then put it on the board!
I basically have it to the point where i built a layout, and have the file saved, but when i try to firmware update it, i get the dfu error. I have all of the files in one folder because i had read earlier that that part was a crucial step. i can get pics if that would help /;
If anyone with acrylic plate wants to sell or change for SS plate, let me know.
There never was an acrylic plate offered in this GB
"pay a premium" you will do, these go for about $600 on r/MM.
Two questions:
1. Can I sip socket the function layer indicators at the top left of the PCB?
2. If not, how do I tell positive from negative for the LED on the PCB? I see one side of "circle" is flat and the other round but just want to double check.
Two questions:
1. Can I sip socket the function layer indicators at the top left of the PCB?
2. If not, how do I tell positive from negative for the LED on the PCB? I see one side of "circle" is flat and the other round but just want to double check.
Unfortunately I can't give any help for the 2nd question, but I can say that I had my Octagon v2 installed with SIPs in the indicator LED section.
Two questions:
1. Can I sip socket the function layer indicators at the top left of the PCB?
2. If not, how do I tell positive from negative for the LED on the PCB? I see one side of "circle" is flat and the other round but just want to double check.
Is there ever going to be another run of this? :(
Does anyone know the functions for the led indicators? There's a cluster of three and then another cluster of five. My guess for the three are num lock, scroll lock, and caps lock, but in what order. Also, what are the additional five?
That gives me hope!
Does anyone know the functions for the led indicators? There's a cluster of three and then another cluster of five. My guess for the three are num lock, scroll lock, and caps lock, but in what order. Also, what are the additional five?
From left to right: NumLock, CapsLock, ScrollLock, Layer1, Layer2, Layer3, Layer4, SomeFirmwareSpecificIndicator
Hi guys I'm new to o2d and have sone questions on editing keymap with o2d keymapper.
1) i see 'layer' and 'fn' i thought they were the same thing what is the difference between them?
2) is 'mfn' is set to access fn1?
3) can someone list the entire process in a few bullet points? Like amy button to hild before connecting to the pc. And/or should there be any thing else install besides o2d and dfu. I found apploc.msi but cant install it on pc (not supported)
I have used WKL keymapper and JigOn both seems much easier than o2d.. Anyways thanks in advance.
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Thanks for the info! Learning how to edit layout with Duck board has be quite frustrating... I have used WKL and JigOn before and i never need specific instructions like this. They were very intuitive and user friendly..Hi guys I'm new to o2d and have sone questions on editing keymap with o2d keymapper.
1) i see 'layer' and 'fn' i thought they were the same thing what is the difference between them?
2) is 'mfn' is set to access fn1?
3) can someone list the entire process in a few bullet points? Like amy button to hild before connecting to the pc. And/or should there be any thing else install besides o2d and dfu. I found apploc.msi but cant install it on pc (not supported)
I have used WKL keymapper and JigOn both seems much easier than o2d.. Anyways thanks in advance.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
1) Every base layer has a FN layer each
2) I think MFN opens the corresponding FN layer, say you are currently on layer 3 and press MFN it will open FN3
3) Hold the top button of the two extra keys above the arrows while connecting to enter DFU mode. You only need 02dprog and DFU in the same folder(and ofc the Atmel drivers installed). Flashing is very easy, after you are done with the Firmware you save it, then you connect the board in DFU mode and after that you press Firmware upload.
Must you install the atmel drivers prior to plugging in the pcb? I think it installed the one time I got it working but maybe that would help it recognize?
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Would you be able to point me towards the correct drivers? I tried DFU mode so many times I guess a fresh restart would be a good place to go.
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Someone posted in Octagon V2 thread of problems with Zeal s tabs and a Duck PCB. Has anyone used Zeal stabs for their Blackbird yet? Specifically a location where a trace passes around a screw in holeI used zeal stabs in mine and all the keys work in key tester and word. Just waiting on a new USB to fix all these crazy issues I was having above! Maybe the octagon pcb has different traces that was a problem for them only
Someone posted in Octagon V2 thread of problems with Zeal s tabs and a Duck PCB. Has anyone used Zeal stabs for their Blackbird yet? Specifically a location where a trace passes around a screw in holeI used zeal stabs in mine and all the keys work in key tester and word. Just waiting on a new USB to fix all these crazy issues I was having above! Maybe the octagon pcb has different traces that was a problem for them only
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Someone posted in Octagon V2 thread of problems with Zeal s tabs and a Duck PCB. Has anyone used Zeal stabs for their Blackbird yet? Specifically a location where a trace passes around a screw in holeI used zeal stabs in mine and all the keys work in key tester and word. Just waiting on a new USB to fix all these crazy issues I was having above! Maybe the octagon pcb has different traces that was a problem for them only
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Ya, I figured that would most likely be the case. Just wanted to double check since today is solder day and finding out later would be a pain. Elton getting you a new USB connector for the pcb or do you mean new USB cord?
Ok, everything programmed, yet one question remains. How the hell do I take the in switch LED's off pulse?
Also, can't seem to program a tilde and forward apostrophe (?) for a split backspace. On the selection portion it shows just an apostrophe but I get no output on the keyboard when i press that key.
Ok, everything programmed, yet one question remains. How the hell do I take the in switch LED's off pulse?
Also, can't seem to program a tilde and forward apostrophe (?) for a split backspace. On the selection portion it shows just an apostrophe but I get no output on the keyboard when i press that key.
The LED modes are set through the LED control binds. LED Arrow cycles through the LED modes for the arrow keys, LED modi for the Modifiers, etc. while going through these modes you will see that the brightness will change in other regions, this is normal. After you found the mode you want for every region you press the LED Ctrl key, then you press LED Arrow, then LED Modi, then LED Alph and then LED Pad. Now all LED's should be on and you will be able to set the brightness with LED Up and LED Down, I'd suggest you go all the way down first, because that sets the different regions to the same start value. After you found your perfect brightness press LED Ctrl again and you are done.
No idea on the tilde thingy, my keymap looks like this (pic under this line) and it works for me.Show Image(http://puu.sh/td410/4e68d32a38.png)
Just to be sure, there is no way to reduce brightness on the blackbird right? just on or off and the various modes?
I bought and built a Blackbird, and I had some questions for the people with more experience with keyboards? What is the 8th led on the top left corner for? As far as I can tell the order of the LED are Num lock, Caps Lock, Scroll Lock, Layer1, Layer 2, Layer 3, Layer 4, and ????. I used sip sockets, but I can't seem to get it to light up. I accidentally hit with my soldering iron, and it lit up, but I'm not sure why. How many leds are supposed to light up when you push the fn button? What is the difference between MFN, and FN1 when programming the board?
Thanks for the info. I updated my layout, and changed MFN to FN1. The LEDs for Layer 2-4 light up the same as you. My 8th LED does light up, and turn off after I plug it in. I still haven't figured out how to change LED modes, but it looks like everything is working. I felt like I did a poor job soldering, but everything seems to work. Are Duck pcb's fragile? I was soldering at 650f, and lifted half a pad without intending to.
I'll get around to posting a full build log and better pictures later, but thought I'd share this (https://shados.net/files/blackbird-jtk_oob_1.jpg) for now. Took me so long to build because I had the switch plate polished to a mirror finish and electroplated in gold, which took a while (the plating company has a long lead time for small jobs like this). Caps are JTK Sophomore orange on black; someone needs to make a good gold/yellow-on-black set I can use.
I'll get around to posting a full build log and better pictures later, but thought I'd share this (https://shados.net/files/blackbird-jtk_oob_1.jpg) for now. Took me so long to build because I had the switch plate polished to a mirror finish and electroplated in gold, which took a while (the plating company has a long lead time for small jobs like this). Caps are JTK Sophomore orange on black; someone needs to make a good gold/yellow-on-black set I can use.
I'll get around to posting a full build log and better pictures later, but thought I'd share this (https://shados.net/files/blackbird-jtk_oob_1.jpg) for now. Took me so long to build because I had the switch plate polished to a mirror finish and electroplated in gold, which took a while (the plating company has a long lead time for small jobs like this). Caps are JTK Sophomore orange on black; someone needs to make a good gold/yellow-on-black set I can use.Jchan teased a Electric set in his Pyro IC thread sometime a few sets down the line...would be great. Beautiful bird.
I'll get around to posting a full build log and better pictures later, but thought I'd share this (https://shados.net/files/blackbird-jtk_oob_1.jpg) for now. Took me so long to build because I had the switch plate polished to a mirror finish and electroplated in gold, which took a while (the plating company has a long lead time for small jobs like this). Caps are JTK Sophomore orange on black; someone needs to make a good gold/yellow-on-black set I can use.
Try turning off the backlit LEDs for the keys and see if that does anything.
Is there a Reset to Default option?
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Is there a Reset to Default option?
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Not that I can see. If anyone knows of a way to hard reset, please let me know.
I've opened her up and there is just one lonely RGB LED firing. So sad!
Is there a Reset to Default option?
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Not that I can see. If anyone knows of a way to hard reset, please let me know.
I've opened her up and there is just one lonely RGB LED firing. So sad!
I thought you were talking about the in switch LED in your PM, not faulty SMD LED. Or maybe you're having a problem with both? I had an issue where one rgb led was getting stuck on green. I just kept flashing different hex files and backlighting colors then running through the lighting modes and eventually it got unstuck. Haven't had a problem since. If they are completely off, I'd check soldering.
Good luck!
RGBs are completely off other than LED1. Looking at the soldering, nothing seems amiss... but I'll keep investigating!
3. Basic Initialization Setting (EEPROM ALL CLEAR)
Change the setting status of each function, LED effect, macro, key lock, hot key, etc. to the initial setting.
Static hardware macros ( SM01 to SM20 ) and key mappings set by the mapping program are not changed.
3-1. Press C / M key to enter control mode
3-2. E , A , C , ENTER , type
3-3. Keyboard restarts automatically after initialization process
RGBs are completely off other than LED1. Looking at the soldering, nothing seems amiss... but I'll keep investigating!
Well, then the chances are good (or bad, depends on your interpretation) that only one LED is broken. If the signal is lost at one point (which can happen with dead LEDs) all LEDs chained in afterwards won't work. You could try soldering in a new LED, maybe you can also work out a jumper wire instead, but I'm not sure if it works.
Also, this is how you reset your user settings (LED modes, etc.)Quote3. Basic Initialization Setting (EEPROM ALL CLEAR)
Change the setting status of each function, LED effect, macro, key lock, hot key, etc. to the initial setting.
Static hardware macros ( SM01 to SM20 ) and key mappings set by the mapping program are not changed.
3-1. Press C / M key to enter control mode
3-2. E , A , C , ENTER , type
3-3. Keyboard restarts automatically after initialization process
The quote is from the original documentation (DIRECT!!! dl: http://puu.sh/vjlL8/b3d849a69e.html) It's in Korean, but Google translate works suprisingly well with this document, most of it is understandable, but sometimes it tries translating stuff it shouldn't translate. If something (mainly happens with keycombos) seems really off look at the original, it's often something that wasn't written in Korean to begin with.
RGBs are completely off other than LED1. Looking at the soldering, nothing seems amiss... but I'll keep investigating!
Well, then the chances are good (or bad, depends on your interpretation) that only one LED is broken. If the signal is lost at one point (which can happen with dead LEDs) all LEDs chained in afterwards won't work. You could try soldering in a new LED, maybe you can also work out a jumper wire instead, but I'm not sure if it works.
Also, this is how you reset your user settings (LED modes, etc.)Quote3. Basic Initialization Setting (EEPROM ALL CLEAR)
Change the setting status of each function, LED effect, macro, key lock, hot key, etc. to the initial setting.
Static hardware macros ( SM01 to SM20 ) and key mappings set by the mapping program are not changed.
3-1. Press C / M key to enter control mode
3-2. E , A , C , ENTER , type
3-3. Keyboard restarts automatically after initialization process
The quote is from the original documentation (DIRECT!!! dl: http://puu.sh/vjlL8/b3d849a69e.html) It's in Korean, but Google translate works suprisingly well with this document, most of it is understandable, but sometimes it tries translating stuff it shouldn't translate. If something (mainly happens with keycombos) seems really off look at the original, it's often something that wasn't written in Korean to begin with.
Thanks very much for the assistance, kawasaki, I appreciate it!
Looks like RGB LED2 is the likely culprit. When plugging in, I mentioned that all the RGBs give a quick flash, but LED2 doesn't even do that. Hoping changing that out does the trick... I'll update when successfully fixed! :thumb:
RGBs are completely off other than LED1. Looking at the soldering, nothing seems amiss... but I'll keep investigating!
Well, then the chances are good (or bad, depends on your interpretation) that only one LED is broken. If the signal is lost at one point (which can happen with dead LEDs) all LEDs chained in afterwards won't work. You could try soldering in a new LED, maybe you can also work out a jumper wire instead, but I'm not sure if it works.
Also, this is how you reset your user settings (LED modes, etc.)Quote3. Basic Initialization Setting (EEPROM ALL CLEAR)
Change the setting status of each function, LED effect, macro, key lock, hot key, etc. to the initial setting.
Static hardware macros ( SM01 to SM20 ) and key mappings set by the mapping program are not changed.
3-1. Press C / M key to enter control mode
3-2. E , A , C , ENTER , type
3-3. Keyboard restarts automatically after initialization process
The quote is from the original documentation (DIRECT!!! dl: http://puu.sh/vjlL8/b3d849a69e.html) It's in Korean, but Google translate works suprisingly well with this document, most of it is understandable, but sometimes it tries translating stuff it shouldn't translate. If something (mainly happens with keycombos) seems really off look at the original, it's often something that wasn't written in Korean to begin with.
Thanks very much for the assistance, kawasaki, I appreciate it!
Looks like RGB LED2 is the likely culprit. When plugging in, I mentioned that all the RGBs give a quick flash, but LED2 doesn't even do that. Hoping changing that out does the trick... I'll update when successfully fixed! :thumb:
My local electronics shop was a no-go. Anyone know a part number or better yet source for these RGB LEDs?
Thanks very much- I appreciate the help!
Maybe it's the WS2812B SMD LED can anyone confirm?
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RGBs are completely off other than LED1. Looking at the soldering, nothing seems amiss... but I'll keep investigating!
Well, then the chances are good (or bad, depends on your interpretation) that only one LED is broken. If the signal is lost at one point (which can happen with dead LEDs) all LEDs chained in afterwards won't work. You could try soldering in a new LED, maybe you can also work out a jumper wire instead, but I'm not sure if it works.
Also, this is how you reset your user settings (LED modes, etc.)Quote3. Basic Initialization Setting (EEPROM ALL CLEAR)
Change the setting status of each function, LED effect, macro, key lock, hot key, etc. to the initial setting.
Static hardware macros ( SM01 to SM20 ) and key mappings set by the mapping program are not changed.
3-1. Press C / M key to enter control mode
3-2. E , A , C , ENTER , type
3-3. Keyboard restarts automatically after initialization process
The quote is from the original documentation (DIRECT!!! dl: http://puu.sh/vjlL8/b3d849a69e.html) It's in Korean, but Google translate works suprisingly well with this document, most of it is understandable, but sometimes it tries translating stuff it shouldn't translate. If something (mainly happens with keycombos) seems really off look at the original, it's often something that wasn't written in Korean to begin with.
Thanks very much for the assistance, kawasaki, I appreciate it!
Looks like RGB LED2 is the likely culprit. When plugging in, I mentioned that all the RGBs give a quick flash, but LED2 doesn't even do that. Hoping changing that out does the trick... I'll update when successfully fixed! :thumb:
My local electronics shop was a no-go. Anyone know a part number or better yet source for these RGB LEDs?
Thanks very much- I appreciate the help!
Thats the one I believe, I have the same issue on my LZ Iron ~ though I haven't replaced it yet because I'm not sure how to :-[ (only have exp with through-hole soldering) -- if anyone can link a tutorial, that'd be cool!
goodluck w/ replacing the faulty LED, hope that works out for you.
RGBs are completely off other than LED1. Looking at the soldering, nothing seems amiss... but I'll keep investigating!
Well, then the chances are good (or bad, depends on your interpretation) that only one LED is broken. If the signal is lost at one point (which can happen with dead LEDs) all LEDs chained in afterwards won't work. You could try soldering in a new LED, maybe you can also work out a jumper wire instead, but I'm not sure if it works.
Also, this is how you reset your user settings (LED modes, etc.)Quote3. Basic Initialization Setting (EEPROM ALL CLEAR)
Change the setting status of each function, LED effect, macro, key lock, hot key, etc. to the initial setting.
Static hardware macros ( SM01 to SM20 ) and key mappings set by the mapping program are not changed.
3-1. Press C / M key to enter control mode
3-2. E , A , C , ENTER , type
3-3. Keyboard restarts automatically after initialization process
The quote is from the original documentation (DIRECT!!! dl: http://puu.sh/vjlL8/b3d849a69e.html) It's in Korean, but Google translate works suprisingly well with this document, most of it is understandable, but sometimes it tries translating stuff it shouldn't translate. If something (mainly happens with keycombos) seems really off look at the original, it's often something that wasn't written in Korean to begin with.
Thanks very much for the assistance, kawasaki, I appreciate it!
Looks like RGB LED2 is the likely culprit. When plugging in, I mentioned that all the RGBs give a quick flash, but LED2 doesn't even do that. Hoping changing that out does the trick... I'll update when successfully fixed! :thumb:
My local electronics shop was a no-go. Anyone know a part number or better yet source for these RGB LEDs?
Thanks very much- I appreciate the help!
Thats the one I believe, I have the same issue on my LZ Iron ~ though I haven't replaced it yet because I'm not sure how to :-[ (only have exp with through-hole soldering) -- if anyone can link a tutorial, that'd be cool!
goodluck w/ replacing the faulty LED, hope that works out for you.
These LEDs are a bit different to work with than through hole LEDs. These are very sensitive to heat so avoid making contact with the iron for extended periods. Just make sure you buy extras as they are quite affordable. Here is how I did it:
Assuming you already desoldered the broken LED and now about to place the new LED.
1. Add some solder to one of the 4 pads.
2. Pick up a LED with a pair tweezers.
3. Heat up the solder (from step 1).
4. Place the LED onto the pad and move it around to make sure it rest flat on the PCB and also make sure you have proper access to the other 3 pads for soldering. (This should be done quickly to avoid damaging the pad with excessive heat) Quickly remove the soldering iron and now the LED is positioned and held in place.
5. Now just solder the other 3 pads and you should be good.
** Please avoid making having the iron making too much contact to the LED because that will easily kill it..**
**Buy extras**
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Thank you very much for the info!
I finally sat down to start this board and I realized that I lost all the hardware :(
I am having trouble figuring out exactly what I lost, this board doesn't seem to piece together quite like some others have. How many screws and screw types does this board take? Right now I am only seeing the 4 screw holes on the bottom corners of the base.
Any help or ideas on how to replace would be appreciated
Thank you very much for the info!
You're back!
Thank you very much for the info!
You're back!
Hi romevi! Yea always been around, just been super busy :)
Thanks for the specs on the screws... does anyone know a good place to source tiny screws like that?
I get my screws from Tacoma Screw company. But for when I'm feeling impulsive, I just go to HobbyTown USA.
I get my screws from Tacoma Screw company. But for when I'm feeling impulsive, I just go to HobbyTown USA.
Tacoma Screw Company... those 'craft' screweries in the Pacific NW make some good microscrews! :))
I get my screws from Tacoma Screw company. But for when I'm feeling impulsive, I just go to HobbyTown USA.
Tacoma Screw Company... those 'craft' screweries in the Pacific NW make some good microscrews! :))
LOL :D :D :D
On a side note, [shill] looking for someone to take over my brass engraved Blackbird weight from merlin64's GB. PM if you're interested[/shill]
I get my screws from Tacoma Screw company. But for when I'm feeling impulsive, I just go to HobbyTown USA.
Tacoma Screw Company... those 'craft' screweries in the Pacific NW make some good microscrews! :))
LOL :D :D :D
On a side note, [shill] looking for someone to take over my brass engraved Blackbird weight from merlin64's GB. PM if you're interested[/shill]
I wouldn't, his GBs are a little screwy.
Thank you very much for the info!
You're back!
Hi romevi! Yea always been around, just been super busy :)
Whys the Google order form still work?Elton doesn't always take down the order forms. This is definitely closed though.
I am really impressed by the Blackbird as well. The angle it lays at is really really nice and it is super comfortable to type on.
I am really impressed by the Blackbird as well. The angle it lays at is really really nice and it is super comfortable to type on.
Yeah, I hope Duck offers more boards with a 7 degree angle. His normal 11 degrees aren't comfortable for me at all.
Good news for my wallet :))I am really impressed by the Blackbird as well. The angle it lays at is really really nice and it is super comfortable to type on.
Yeah, I hope Duck offers more boards with a 7 degree angle. His normal 11 degrees aren't comfortable for me at all.
Bad news for you, the Blackbird V2 is 11deg.
I get more and more disappointed the more details I hear about the Blackbird v2. Here's hoping a design like the v1 returns sometime in the future.I am really impressed by the Blackbird as well. The angle it lays at is really really nice and it is super comfortable to type on.
Yeah, I hope Duck offers more boards with a 7 degree angle. His normal 11 degrees aren't comfortable for me at all.
Bad news for you, the Blackbird V2 is 11deg.
Since v2 is going to be facelifted, I think I'm going to handwire my own blackbird from scratch. No point in waiting around for Duck to come out with another v1 Blackbird.Where did you hear about this news? Is there already an announcement?
Blackbird v1 is one of the best KB's I own. ** I am looking for a spare PCB if anyone has one. **
It was first mentioned in the Lightsaver v3 thread by Mindxthinker.Since v2 is going to be facelifted, I think I'm going to handwire my own blackbird from scratch. No point in waiting around for Duck to come out with another v1 Blackbird.Where did you hear about this news? Is there already an announcement?
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Hmm... That's not quite Blackbird though... Got the extra f-row. I really enjoyed the 60/10key/arrows combo very minimalistic and clean. Jetfire is more of a cross between TX-CP and blackbird, very pretty.It was first mentioned in the Lightsaver v3 thread by Mindxthinker.Since v2 is going to be facelifted, I think I'm going to handwire my own blackbird from scratch. No point in waiting around for Duck to come out with another v1 Blackbird.Where did you hear about this news? Is there already an announcement?
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https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=89546.450
Although after a bit of researching it looks like this new board is going to be called Jetfire. Duck posted some pictures on his instagram a day ago.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BYI1X_Vjskt/
Maybe the Blackbird will still make a return ;D
Yeah I didn't like the added f-row when I saw it either. It was originally posted under Duck facelift design and since it most resembled the the Blackbird we all assumed it was the Blackbird v2. If you read through the Lightsaver thread you'll see some people liked the change and others (like me) didn't. Though since this new board has a name now it isn't the Blackbird v2.Hmm... That's not quite Blackbird though... Got the extra f-row. I really enjoyed the 60/10key/arrows combo very minimalistic and clean. Jetfire is more of a cross between TX-CP and blackbird, very pretty.It was first mentioned in the Lightsaver v3 thread by Mindxthinker.Since v2 is going to be facelifted, I think I'm going to handwire my own blackbird from scratch. No point in waiting around for Duck to come out with another v1 Blackbird.Where did you hear about this news? Is there already an announcement?
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=89546.450
Although after a bit of researching it looks like this new board is going to be called Jetfire. Duck posted some pictures on his instagram a day ago.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BYI1X_Vjskt/
Maybe the Blackbird will still make a return ;D
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
So I was updating my Blackbird keymap and try to upload the firmware afterwards the lights didn't come back on and key press don't respond, the only thing is when i plug in the usb i see a flash of light and that was it... any idea how to get it to come back from this?
well i honestly dont know what i did but it's back alive! i was ****ing around with Atmel flip and after that it still didn't wwork and i just pressed a bunch keys together... suddenly lights came back on! and keys works! weird!!! 1 hour of panic but it's all good for now... :-\
Yeah I didn't like the added f-row when I saw it either. It was originally posted under Duck facelift design and since it most resembled the the Blackbird we all assumed it was the Blackbird v2. If you read through the Lightsaver thread you'll see some people liked the change and others (like me) didn't. Though since this new board has a name now it isn't the Blackbird v2.Hmm... That's not quite Blackbird though... Got the extra f-row. I really enjoyed the 60/10key/arrows combo very minimalistic and clean. Jetfire is more of a cross between TX-CP and blackbird, very pretty.It was first mentioned in the Lightsaver v3 thread by Mindxthinker.Since v2 is going to be facelifted, I think I'm going to handwire my own blackbird from scratch. No point in waiting around for Duck to come out with another v1 Blackbird.Where did you hear about this news? Is there already an announcement?
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=89546.450
Although after a bit of researching it looks like this new board is going to be called Jetfire. Duck posted some pictures on his instagram a day ago.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BYI1X_Vjskt/
Maybe the Blackbird will still make a return ;D
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
http://duck0113.tistory.com/136
On the hunt for a Black Bird PCB, $100 bounty... pm's please
On the hunt for a Black Bird PCB, $100 bounty... pm's please
Oh no! What happened??
Well it happens..but I think given the proper instructions from maybe Duck there might be ways to jump it.. maybe take some pictures and post maybe someone here can help out. You probably have a greater chance of doing jumps than actually finding an extra PCB TBH...On the hunt for a Black Bird PCB, $100 bounty... pm's please
Oh no! What happened??
sigh, i am an idiot basically and forgot a stab on the left shift, then decided id just do a split left shift instead of de-soldering the entire pcb to install said stab. Managed to lift a pad because I used my de-soldering gun without tinning the tip and adding more solder before hand... mistakes were made and im going to blame it on the beer i was drinking at the time!
Well it happens..but I think given the proper instructions from maybe Duck there might be ways to jump it.. maybe take some pictures and post maybe someone here can help out. You probably have a greater chance of doing jumps than actually finding an extra PCB TBH...On the hunt for a Black Bird PCB, $100 bounty... pm's please
Oh no! What happened??
sigh, i am an idiot basically and forgot a stab on the left shift, then decided id just do a split left shift instead of de-soldering the entire pcb to install said stab. Managed to lift a pad because I used my de-soldering gun without tinning the tip and adding more solder before hand... mistakes were made and im going to blame it on the beer i was drinking at the time!
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Well it happens..but I think given the proper instructions from maybe Duck there might be ways to jump it.. maybe take some pictures and post maybe someone here can help out. You probably have a greater chance of doing jumps than actually finding an extra PCB TBH...On the hunt for a Black Bird PCB, $100 bounty... pm's please
Oh no! What happened??
sigh, i am an idiot basically and forgot a stab on the left shift, then decided id just do a split left shift instead of de-soldering the entire pcb to install said stab. Managed to lift a pad because I used my de-soldering gun without tinning the tip and adding more solder before hand... mistakes were made and im going to blame it on the beer i was drinking at the time!
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Yea, its been fixed with a jumper and works as intended but its just so damn ugly and me knowing its there is even worse!
You can get replacement eyelets to repair lifted pads directly, although it sounds like this might only be useful for future reference, at this point...
Yes I have eyelets, but the damage is actually on a trace connected to the eyelet unfortunately. Repairing PCB's with damage like that is a lot easier said then done, you have to have a variety of tools to scrape/clean/retrace and epoxy down the traces then cover them back up with substrate. I have done some pcb repair work myself and basically stopped doing it because you need like a damn microscope to get the job done along with a decent heated air station that I also elected not to buy. Its actually pretty comical cutting a custom trace and trying to set it with a set of normal tweasers, comical and infuriating.
Any info on Jetfire GB? They mentioned it would be this month...
Yup, Jetfire GB already passed. I think they’ve all paid and are now waiting for the boards to be made.Any info on Jetfire GB? They mentioned it would be this month...
Did I miss this? I still like the 1800 layout a bit more I think. But I was curious to the pricing.
Blackbird deserves a v2!that's what jetfire is