Author Topic: So, I guess taking the spacebar off of a model F XT to clean it was a bad idea.  (Read 4854 times)

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Offline supamesican

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Anyone know how to get it back on? Or now that its off anyway should I just do the spacebar mod for it I've seen talked about?

Offline mike52787

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You need to completely disassemble the board. There is no way to get it back on.  I learned this the hard way and had to take the board all apart. if you want, I can do it for you. I am actually typing on my F XT right now.

Offline supamesican

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I dont mind taking it apart to put it back on, wouldnt be the first keyboard tear down I've done. What all do I need to do? I'll just do it thursday before I go to my families for food.

Ether that or I'll do some mod for the fun of it, ether way I dont mind taking my stuff apart to fix it, especially this keyboard since the way I understand it it was kinda made to be serviceable.

Offline mike52787

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I can send you detailed pictures of disassembly of mine. You may also want to replace the foam on the board if it has disintegrated. I have to open mine anyway to fix a spring.

Offline wodan

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If you took the space bar off a IBM XT, chances are you broke the stabilizer. Post a pic of the space bar :)

Offline mike52787

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If you took the space bar off a IBM XT, chances are you broke the stabilizer. Post a pic of the space bar :)
I dint break mine when I pulled it off. All that happened was I pulled the wire out of the notches.

Offline supamesican

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I'm hoping I didnt break the stablizer, I took some tweezers and messed with them/it and it seems to work just like a normal one should still, it just wont go back on.  I was as careful as I could when I took it off.  IF it is ded can it be replaced or is it just a parts board?


I would really appreciate the pics man, then I can see how its done.  The foam is more or less dead. I took the case off before, what type should I get to replace it?  Oh and will I need anything other than my screw driver?

Offline E TwentyNine

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Don't worry too much about it, you'll get it back together.  Your board is not a parts board.
Daily driver: SSK or Tenkeyless IBM AT
1984 Model M Industrial Prototype ⌨ 1992 Black Oval Industrial SSK ⌨ 1982 5251 Beam Spring ⌨ 89 Key "SSK" ⌨ M13 triplets

Offline supamesican

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Yeah... That was kinda a dumb thought for me to have, its a model F XT for crying out loud, gonna take a lot more than that to make this board a parts board. I've seen a 100% tear down and spring replacement before that still worked.

Thankfully for now my model m can hold me over

Offline mike52787

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When you do it, I would suggest screwing 2 wooden blocks down onto your workspace to hold the board in position, bending the tabs back, pressing it down, and then bending them back into place. when putting the spacebar on, its a good idea to thread some floss around the little peg on the back of the hammer, and tie a weight onto the ends of it. make sure you put the spacebar onto the board before you reassemble it. I can show you specifics when I do it. I can work on it tomorrow, and send you pictures of the process.

Offline supamesican

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That sounds good, since I wont be working on mine until thursday/friday.

Offline mike52787

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This should be all you need to get it back together. If you have any questions dont be afraid to ask.
http://imgur.com/a/vCBGI

Offline supamesican

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if I were to get my keyboard elevated enough would I *have* to take all the keys off? Its no problem to do it, I have the tools, but if I dont have to I may try not.

Offline Tangtawan

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oh no, will the same issue happen with the Model F AT?
My boards : Model F AT (6450200), Industrial M (1394950), Model M SSK (1391472), Model M13 (13H6705), Model M (1390131), Focus FK-2001 (ALPS SKCM Blue), HHKB Pro 2, Realforce 87U 55g, KBP V80 Matias Click, TADA68 (Gateron Reds), Filco Majestouch 2 TKL (67g Ergo Clears), Cherry G80-11800 (Ergo Clears), KBT One 108 (MX White), Ducky One TKL RGB (MX Black), Filco Majestouch Tenkeypad (MX Brown), Leopold FC210TP (MX Red)

Offline mike52787

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if I were to get my keyboard elevated enough would I *have* to take all the keys off? Its no problem to do it, I have the tools, but if I dont have to I may try not.
nope. it is absolutely necessary to take off all the keycaps.

Offline fohat.digs

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nope. it is absolutely necessary to take off all the keycaps.

And if you don't get it back together properly, you will have to take them all off and put them back on each time. Expect multiple iterations.

I have done this dozens of times and still make mistakes often.

ATs are the same as far as the space bar goes.
"The Trump campaign announced in a letter that Republican candidates and committees are now expected to pay “a minimum of 5% of all fundraising solicitations to Trump National Committee JFC” for using his “name, image, and likeness in fundraising solicitations.”
“Any split that is higher than 5%,” the letter states, “will be seen favorably by the RNC and President Trump's campaign and is routinely reported to the highest levels of leadership within both organizations.”"

Offline mike52787

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nope. it is absolutely necessary to take off all the keycaps.

And if you don't get it back together properly, you will have to take them all off and put them back on each time. Expect multiple iterations.

I have done this dozens of times and still make mistakes often.

ATs are the same as far as the space bar goes.
surprisingly enough when I did my guide everything worked first try. I think bending the tabs back is a much easier method than actually slotting it back together like every other guide except my own says to.

Offline E TwentyNine

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surprisingly enough when I did my guide everything worked first try. I think bending the tabs back is a much easier method than actually slotting it back together like every other guide except my own says to.

I worry about metal fatigue when bending, so if they're very snug I'll bend them out *slightly* then slide it out.
Daily driver: SSK or Tenkeyless IBM AT
1984 Model M Industrial Prototype ⌨ 1992 Black Oval Industrial SSK ⌨ 1982 5251 Beam Spring ⌨ 89 Key "SSK" ⌨ M13 triplets

Offline mike52787

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surprisingly enough when I did my guide everything worked first try. I think bending the tabs back is a much easier method than actually slotting it back together like every other guide except my own says to.

I worry about metal fatigue when bending, so if they're very snug I'll bend them out *slightly* then slide it out.
Ive disassembled my xt probably about 9 times, and have no signs of metal fatigue. Its such a thick piece of steel I dont think that there will be much effect.

Offline E TwentyNine

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surprisingly enough when I did my guide everything worked first try. I think bending the tabs back is a much easier method than actually slotting it back together like every other guide except my own says to.

I worry about metal fatigue when bending, so if they're very snug I'll bend them out *slightly* then slide it out.
Ive disassembled my xt probably about 9 times, and have no signs of metal fatigue. Its such a thick piece of steel I dont think that there will be much effect.

You're probably right.  But to me it's a "why risk it" scenario.  I get the job done fine with sliding things together.
Daily driver: SSK or Tenkeyless IBM AT
1984 Model M Industrial Prototype ⌨ 1992 Black Oval Industrial SSK ⌨ 1982 5251 Beam Spring ⌨ 89 Key "SSK" ⌨ M13 triplets

Offline kekstee

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You need a lot of clamps to reassemble, I had to apply pressure at six points around the edges before I could slide it back together.

Also use floss or a nylon thread to hold down the spacebar flipper, as mike suggested.

Offline mike52787

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You need a lot of clamps to reassemble, I had to apply pressure at six points around the edges before I could slide it back together.

Also use floss or a nylon thread to hold down the spacebar flipper, as mike suggested.
If you did it like I showed, its much easier, and you don't need any clamps. Not sure why more people don't do it that way.

Offline E TwentyNine

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You need a lot of clamps to reassemble, I had to apply pressure at six points around the edges before I could slide it back together.

Also use floss or a nylon thread to hold down the spacebar flipper, as mike suggested.

From what I've heard assembling an F-122 is a beast, I'm sure fohat can attest to that.

But an XT/AT?  Hand assembled no problem.  XT a little harder but not by much.
Daily driver: SSK or Tenkeyless IBM AT
1984 Model M Industrial Prototype ⌨ 1992 Black Oval Industrial SSK ⌨ 1982 5251 Beam Spring ⌨ 89 Key "SSK" ⌨ M13 triplets

Offline mike52787

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You need a lot of clamps to reassemble, I had to apply pressure at six points around the edges before I could slide it back together.

Also use floss or a nylon thread to hold down the spacebar flipper, as mike suggested.

From what I've heard assembling an F-122 is a beast, I'm sure fohat can attest to that.

But an XT/AT?  Hand assembled no problem.  XT a little harder but not by much.
I assembled my 122 really easily the same way I showed to assemble the XT. Its super easy if you don't try to do that bull**** where you slide it back together

Offline supamesican

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if I were to get my keyboard elevated enough would I *have* to take all the keys off? Its no problem to do it, I have the tools, but if I dont have to I may try not.
nope. it is absolutely necessary to take off all the keycaps.

Fair enough. Do I need to do anything for the janky long + on the side or does it just look worse than it is? I have one wire keycap puller so I'm hoping thats enough. And do I need it upside down when I put the caps back on like on model ms?

Offline E TwentyNine

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You don't need the board to be upside down when you put the keys back on for M or F.  Just have the whole assembly tilted slightly away from you so the springs stand up in the barrel correctly as you place the keys.
Daily driver: SSK or Tenkeyless IBM AT
1984 Model M Industrial Prototype ⌨ 1992 Black Oval Industrial SSK ⌨ 1982 5251 Beam Spring ⌨ 89 Key "SSK" ⌨ M13 triplets

Offline mike52787

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So, I guess taking the spacebar off of a model F XT to clean it was a bad idea.
« Reply #26 on: Wed, 23 November 2016, 11:49:46 »
if I were to get my keyboard elevated enough would I *have* to take all the keys off? Its no problem to do it, I have the tools, but if I dont have to I may try not.
nope. it is absolutely necessary to take off all the keycaps.

Fair enough. Do I need to do anything for the janky long + on the side or does it just look worse than it is? I have one wire keycap puller so I'm hoping thats enough. And do I need it upside down when I put the caps back on like on model ms?
Yeah, as e29 said, no need to flip it upside down. For the big + key, I typically just take the case off and pull it off with my fingers. you can use a wire puller if you want to, but theres no need.

Offline supamesican

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Awesome, I'll get to work on it tonight and let everyone know how it goes. Wish me luck.

Offline supamesican

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I am not the first person to take this apart, all but one of the top tabs are already bent up.

I got this from a guy who got it from an estate sale. I really hope the original owner was into taking care of stuff and did this.

Offline supamesican

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welp got the bar and everything on just fine, then one of the cables going to the controler broke. I guess I'm not surprised this is a 34 year old board.  I dont feel like fixing that, I ordered an AT last week anyway. I think I'll sell this and let someone who likes to tinker more than I do fix it. Whats a good price for a board that needs a new cable? I'll throw it on ebay this weekend and just use my model m until the at gets here this weekend.

Offline fohat.digs

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Prices go all over the place on those.

Lot_Lizard's project makes the switches worth $0.50 each and the key caps are well-liked although they don't make a complete set.
"The Trump campaign announced in a letter that Republican candidates and committees are now expected to pay “a minimum of 5% of all fundraising solicitations to Trump National Committee JFC” for using his “name, image, and likeness in fundraising solicitations.”
“Any split that is higher than 5%,” the letter states, “will be seen favorably by the RNC and President Trump's campaign and is routinely reported to the highest levels of leadership within both organizations.”"

Offline supamesican

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Huh, well since it looks like the prices are around $150 for a working one I'll probably go 100 or so when I put it up then. I could just fix the wire, but I have a new one coming anyway I was just going to throw this back on ebay when it got here regardless.

Offline fohat.digs

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it looks like the prices are around $150 for a working one


Really? Are you looking at "Sold Listings" or asking prices?

To me, $100 seems like a top price for a pristine specimen, although somebody on DT claimed to have gotten $150 for one with an internal Teensy.
"The Trump campaign announced in a letter that Republican candidates and committees are now expected to pay “a minimum of 5% of all fundraising solicitations to Trump National Committee JFC” for using his “name, image, and likeness in fundraising solicitations.”
“Any split that is higher than 5%,” the letter states, “will be seen favorably by the RNC and President Trump's campaign and is routinely reported to the highest levels of leadership within both organizations.”"

Offline supamesican

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Both. Granted that would be a buy it now price with a best offer thing so I can haggle cause I like to haggle. Plus a low starting bid thing to see whatever works.
« Last Edit: Thu, 24 November 2016, 16:21:11 by supamesican »

Offline kalrand

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Two comments:

1) When you said that "all but one of the top tabs are already bent up." I think you might be confusing "the bent tab" and all the other tabs that sort of hook over the back plate. Only one would be totally bent over when you take the assembly out. Did you bend all the hooking tabs back?

2) If you take a picture of what broke, we might be able to help you with a quick fix. Otherwise, whoever you sell this to is going to have a much better idea what "cable to the controller broke" means, and you'll get more money if it's not serious.
My 122 key Model M was born on July 25th, 1988.