$ cd keyboard/hhkb
make -f Makefile
for USB controller$ make -f Makefile.rn42
for Bluetooth controllerEntering config mode ...
CMD
Ver 6.15 04/26/2013
(c) Roving Networks
ECHO ON
SF,1
AOK
S-,TmkBT
AOK
SS,Keyboard/Mouse
AOK
SM,4
AOK
SW,8000
AOK
S~,6
AOK
SH,003C
AOK
SY,FFF4
AOK
R,1
Reboot!
Exiting config mode ...
To reset the module to the factory defaults, GPIO4 should be high onYou can toggle GPIO4 with two pads labeled as "F.RST" in pic below. You can turn it high(ON) by closing the pads with tweezer, paper clip, or screwdriver and low(OFF) by keeping open.
power-up and then toggle low, high, low, high with a 1 second wait between the transitions.
what's your os?
When shipped I configured RN-42 to auctoconnect. It should autoconnect if host OS allows.
Entering config mode ...
CMD
Ver 6.15 04/26/2013
(c) Roving Networks
ECHO ON
SR,Z
AOK
R,1
Reboot!
Exiting config mode ...
SR,Z // removes all remote addresses for reconnecting.
// can be used to connect another host
----- RN-42 info -----
protocol: LUFA
force_usb: 0
rn42: OFF
rn42_autoconnecting(): 1
config_mode: 0
USB State: Configured
battery: CHARG
RemoteWakeupEnabled: 1
VBUS: 1
uptime: 00 00:00:16
USB mode
Entering config mode ...
CMD
Ver 6.15 04/26/2013
(c) Roving Networks
ECHO ON
SF,1
AOK
S-,TmkBT
AOK
SS,Keyboard/Mouse
AOK
SM,4
AOK
SW,8000
AOK
S~,6
AOK
SH,003C
AOK
SY,FFF4
AOK
R,1
Reboot!
Exiting config mode ...
This was with rn42 turned to default and changed the settings mentioned above. Should it be SM,4 or SM,6 by the way?
Hey Hasu, because your controller doesn't have the USB hubs like the stock controller does, would it work when plugged in an ipad via the camera adapter? Have you tested it?
I think so but not confirmed with Apple camera adapter and the latest iOS. I don't have a genuine cable to test.
I tested my controller with cheap adapter clone and old iOS and it works as keyboard. But the clone cable became unusable sometime ago after iOS update.
You have to use USB controller, BT controller will not work due to battery charger.Hey Hasu, because your controller doesn't have the USB hubs like the stock controller does, would it work when plugged in an ipad via the camera adapter? Have you tested it?
I think so but not confirmed with Apple camera adapter and the latest iOS. I don't have a genuine cable to test.
I tested my controller with cheap adapter clone and old iOS and it works as keyboard. But the clone cable became unusable sometime ago after iOS update.
You have to use USB controller, BT controller will not work due to battery charger.Hey Hasu, because your controller doesn't have the USB hubs like the stock controller does, would it work when plugged in an ipad via the camera adapter? Have you tested it?
But I'm not sure BT controller works as an USB keybaord with iPad/iPhone when connected using 'Apple USB Camera Adapter'. Seems like whether it works or not depends on its power consumption. So I think BT controller may not work particularly when it is charging.Confirmed, it works.
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MD821ZM/A/lightning-to-usb-camera-adapter?fnode=3a
BTW what is the red button for under the dip switch cover?
Any solution for the delay in toggling the L1 layer? Was going to push delete to that layer, but as soon as I did the delay became infinitely more bothersome. Tried reflashing firmware on a different computer using Flip and the problem is still there.
0010 16
000C 12
0008 8
0004 4
0000 0
FFFC -4
FFF8 -8
FFF4 -12
Can someone link it? I couldn't find it.
Just thought I'd post here that my friend and I designed and 3d printed dust covers for the usb ports on the hhkb with Hasu controller. Here is a picture of it:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vt2KFoL.jpg)
I'll get the .stl file from my buddy and upload for anyone that wants it. Some minimal sanding is required around the corners and edges etc. Unfortunately, I cannot make these for anyone as my school has the machine, and I will be graduating in a week.
Try this link; https://www.dropbox.com/s/v6vtinzjoh5y06u/HHKBusbcover.stl?dl=0Can someone link it? I couldn't find it.Just thought I'd post here that my friend and I designed and 3d printed dust covers for the usb ports on the hhkb with Hasu controller. Here is a picture of it:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vt2KFoL.jpg)
I'll get the .stl file from my buddy and upload for anyone that wants it. Some minimal sanding is required around the corners and edges etc. Unfortunately, I cannot make these for anyone as my school has the machine, and I will be graduating in a week.
No sign of the .stl file though, maybe send him a PM?
Preassembled boards in stock:(can be shipped in a few days)
USB: 0
BT: 3
Components in stock:(can be assembled in a week)
USB: 0
BT: 0
dustinhxc,
Thanks for your interest.
Sorry not in stock currently, last three USB controllers have gone in this week.
Components for next batch were ordered but it will take a few weeks until starting assembly.
Updated STOCK in the first post.QuotePreassembled boards in stock:(can be shipped in a few days)
USB: 0
BT: 3
Components in stock:(can be assembled in a week)
USB: 0
BT: 0
Do not attempt to charge these with anything but a charger specifically designed for Lithium Ion batteries.
Bluetooth BatteryMoreBT Controller doesn't include battery. I can recommend Sparkfun Lipo battery(850mA or 1000mA) but you will be able to find proper batteries at many sites on the net.
You need to use 3.7V Lithium Ion Polymer battery with JST PH 2pin connector and battery protection circuit. Battery space inside HHKB is around 54mm x 50mm and its height is 7mm(or 8mm).
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56494.msg1597883#msg1597883
LIPO BATTERY IS VERY DANGEROUS, TAKE EXTRA CARE OF YOUR SAFETY AND PROPERTY. For your safety check this.
https://learn.adafruit.com/li-ion-and-lipoly-batteries
https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/241
http://www.evita.lt/en/a-lp804550-akumuliatorius-3-7v-2000mah-8x45x50mm-li-polymerI have one LiPo from SparkFun (I think) and the JST connector is not directly cabled to the battery leads like you see on the your picture, but there's a small PCB (JST -- wires -- PCB -- battery). It's hard to see on SparkFun's photos, it's kind of hidden in the battery cover.
What do you think about this 2000 mah polymer battery? That's the ony that may fit into HHKB case
It has no JST connectors and cables
How to attach it to the battery?
http://www.evita.lt/en/a-lp804550-akumuliatorius-3-7v-2000mah-8x45x50mm-li-polymerI have one LiPo from SparkFun (I think) and the JST connector is not directly cabled to the battery leads like you see on the your picture, but there's a small PCB (JST -- wires -- PCB -- battery). It's hard to see on SparkFun's photos, it's kind of hidden in the battery cover.
What do you think about this 2000 mah polymer battery? That's the ony that may fit into HHKB case
It has no JST connectors and cables
How to attach it to the battery?
So - I always thought that this small PCB has some kind of extra protection stuff on it (well maybe just a diode so that there's no reverse current going in). But I don't know enough about this stuff to tell. These things can be seriously dangerous, so I'm just trying to say that do some more research before just soldering wires straight to a LiPo like you posted.
Hey guys, I'm having trouble pairing with the bluetooth module. The battery is fully charged, and switching the bluetooth on (with USB unplugged) causes the battery LED to flash red twice. When plugged in, I can't detect a BT signal.
Here's my output from hid_listen after switching BT on. I don't think rn42 should read OFF at this point:
----- RN-42 info -----
protocol: LUFA
force_usb: 0
rn42: OFF
rn42_autoconnecting(): 1
config_mode: 0
USB State: Configured
battery: CHARG
RemoteWakeupEnabled: 0
VBUS: 1
uptime: 00 00:03:37
BAT: 4200mV 00:04:14
Initializing the bluetooth module with LShift+RShift+Del doesn't seem to change anything.
I was able to flash a custom layout, and the controller works great over USB. Any ideas?
BT LED
It lights red when Bluetooth is connected to host, blinks red(once per second) when waiting for connection and blinks red(10 times per second) when Bluetooth module is config mode.
Magic commands
Prefix of magic command are LShift + RShift.
- i displays Bluetooth information on hid_listen console.
- b displays battery voltage on console.
- Delete enter/exits Bluetoot module RN-42 config mode on console. See RN-42 manual.
- Scroll Lock initialize module with TMK default configuration.
- p put keyboard into paring mode focibly.
- u switches between USB and Bluetooth mode.
To initialize BT module you should press LShift+RShift+ScrollLock, not Delete. LShift+RShift+Delete enters module into command mode.
Entering config mode ...
CMD
Ver 6.15 04/26/2013
(c) Roving Networks
ECHO ON
SF,1
AOK
S-,TmkBT
AOK
SS,Keyboard/Mouse
AOK
SM,4
AOK
SW,8000
AOK
S~,6
AOK
SH,003C
AOK
SY,FFF4
AOK
R,1
Reboot!
Exiting config mode ...
You will see this output when BT initialize comand runs.
Note that if this command fails BT module will be configured incompletely or wrongly, you should take special care, do not touch keyboard while this until initilize command is finished. This command takes 5-10 seconds.Code: [Select]Entering config mode ...
CMD
Ver 6.15 04/26/2013
(c) Roving Networks
ECHO ON
SF,1
AOK
S-,TmkBT
AOK
SS,Keyboard/Mouse
AOK
SM,4
AOK
SW,8000
AOK
S~,6
AOK
SH,003C
AOK
SY,FFF4
AOK
R,1
Reboot!
Exiting config mode ...
HASU! When's the next version coming out :D
Still having trouble with Fn + Shift combo when Fn = Layer 2 and on Layer 2, Shift = Layer 3 :(
next version? no plan for Alt controller board currently and Soon(TMK) for TMK firmware :D
what's your problem exactly? we discussed it somewhere before?HASU! When's the next version coming out :D
Still having trouble with Fn + Shift combo when Fn = Layer 2 and on Layer 2, Shift = Layer 3 :(
make -f Makefile.rn42 KEYMAP=hhkb dfu
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase --force
Erasing flash... Success
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x6FFF... Empty.
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x6FFF... Empty.
Chip already blank, to force erase use --force.
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash hhkb_rn42.hex
make: *** [dfu] Error 1
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash hhkb_bt_firmware.hex
Having issues trying to program my controller using dfu programmer on a Macbook Pro,
I got the following error:Code: [Select]make -f Makefile.rn42 KEYMAP=hhkb dfu
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase --force
Erasing flash... Success
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x6FFF... Empty.
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x6FFF... Empty.
Chip already blank, to force erase use --force.
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash hhkb_rn42.hex
make: *** [dfu] Error 1
This made my keyboard completely unresponsive
I then tried:Code: [Select]dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash hhkb_bt_firmware.hex
with a hex file i downloaded from the keyboard editor website, but this just returned nothing
Can anyone help?
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase --force
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash hhkb_bt_firmware.hex
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 reset
I'm trying to pair the keyboard on my Alienware PC with Windows 10, and it doesn't seem to show up as a detected device.
It works fine on my iPhone, LG G3 phone and my Macbook Pro.
Has anyone else had this issue?
Just received my board, and it's fantastic, works in Bluetooth and USB modes.
I can confirm that the adafruit 2500 mAh battery doesn't fit, as it's just a touch too large and the support post can't slot down. I may try shortening / filing the the small plastic support post by 10 mm just to try the battery, but not sure how this would impact the stability of the keyboard so am reluctant
The adafruit 2000 mAh battery fits perfectly.
I will try reprogramming it when I get home from work tonight (want to flip the windows and alt keys around).
I had one question.
If the keyboard is in USB mode, will it still charge the battery?
hmm, I haven't found that erase command was executed twice in dfu target so far. On Ubuntu make doesn't stop here for some reason. Fixed it and updated the repository, use the latest source and try it again.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/commit/d0f174911e84be47d0f3b3d98b7d1adeb38b5411
Creating load file for Flash: hhkb_rn42.hex
avr-objcopy -O ihex -R .eeprom -R .fuse -R .lock -R .signature hhkb_rn42.elf hhkb_rn42.hex
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase --force
Erasing flash... Success
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x6FFF... Empty.
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash hhkb_rn42.hex
make: *** [dfu] Error 1
I think this should work.Code: [Select]dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase --force
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash hhkb_bt_firmware.hex
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 reset
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase --force
Erasing flash... Success
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x6FFF... Empty.
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash hhkb_rn42.hex
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 reset
No output during the flash or the reset commands.$ sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase --force
$ sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash hhkb_rn42.hex
$ sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u4 reset
$ sudo make dfubut I don't recommend it. To run compilation by root(admin?) is not good idea.
In program(bootloader) mode controller should appear as USB device with VID=03eb(Atmel) and PID=2ff4, you will find this on Mac equivalent of 'device manager'.
Probably, you don't have permission to the device enough? Try sudo.Quote$ sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase --force
$ sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash hhkb_rn42.hex
$ sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u4 reset
EDIT:
orQuote$ sudo make dfubut I don't recommend it. To run compilation by root(admin?) is not good idea.
sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash hhkb_rn42.hex --debug 1000
target: atmega32u4
chip_id: 0x2ff4
vendor_id: 0x03eb
command: flash
quiet: false
debug: 1000
device_type: AVR
------ command specific below ------
validate: true
hex file: hhkb_rn42.hex
dfu.c:330: dfu_device_init( 1003, 12276, 0x7fff54010bd0, true, false )
dfu.c:332: dfu_device_init(000003eb, 00002ff4)
libusb: debug [libusb_get_device_list]
libusb: debug [discovered_devs_append] need to increase capacity
libusb: debug [libusb_get_device_descriptor]
dfu.c:347: 0: 0x03eb, 0x2ff4
dfu.c:356: found device at USB:20,10
dfu.c:595: dfu_find_interface()
libusb: debug [libusb_get_config_descriptor] index 0
dfu.c:605: config 0: maxpower=50*2 mA
dfu.c:612: interface 0
dfu.c:621: setting 0: class:0, subclass 0, protocol:0
dfu.c:634: Found DFU Interface: 0
libusb: debug [libusb_open] open 20.10
libusb: debug [darwin_open] device open for access
dfu.c:367: opened interface 0...
libusb: debug [libusb_set_configuration] configuration 1
dfu.c:369: set configuration 1...
libusb: debug [libusb_claim_interface] interface 0
libusb: debug [get_endpoints] building table of endpoints.
libusb: debug [darwin_claim_interface] interface opened
dfu.c:372: claimed interface 0...
dfu.c:301: dfu_abort( 0x7fff54010bd0 )
libusb: debug [libusb_alloc_transfer] transfer 0x7f9659c03e58
libusb: debug [libusb_submit_transfer] transfer 0x7f9659c03e58
libusb: debug [libusb_get_next_timeout] no URB with timeout or all handled by OS; no timeout!
libusb: debug [libusb_handle_events_timeout_completed] doing our own event handling
libusb: debug [handle_events] poll fds modified, reallocating
libusb: debug [handle_events] poll() 1 fds with timeout in 60000ms
libusb: debug [darwin_async_io_callback] an async io operation has completed
libusb: debug [handle_events] poll() returned 1
libusb: debug [handle_events] caught a fish on the event pipe
libusb: debug [darwin_handle_transfer_completion] handling control completion with kernel status 0
libusb: debug [usbi_handle_transfer_completion] transfer 0x7f9659c03e58 has callback 0x10bc0c060
libusb: debug [sync_transfer_cb] actual_length=0
libusb: debug [libusb_free_transfer] transfer 0x7f9659c03e58
dfu.c:212: dfu_get_status( 0x7fff54010bd0, 0x7fff54010ae8 )
libusb: debug [libusb_alloc_transfer] transfer 0x7f9659f01198
libusb: debug [libusb_submit_transfer] transfer 0x7f9659f01198
libusb: debug [libusb_get_next_timeout] no URB with timeout or all handled by OS; no timeout!
libusb: debug [libusb_handle_events_timeout_completed] doing our own event handling
libusb: debug [handle_events] poll() 1 fds with timeout in 60000ms
libusb: debug [darwin_async_io_callback] an async io operation has completed
libusb: debug [handle_events] poll() returned 1
libusb: debug [handle_events] caught a fish on the event pipe
libusb: debug [darwin_handle_transfer_completion] handling control completion with kernel status 0
libusb: debug [usbi_handle_transfer_completion] transfer 0x7f9659f01198 has callback 0x10bc0c060
libusb: debug [sync_transfer_cb] actual_length=6
libusb: debug [libusb_free_transfer] transfer 0x7f9659f01198
dfu.c:238: ==============================
dfu.c:240: status->bStatus: OK (0x00)
dfu.c:241: status->bwPollTimeout: 0x0001 ms
dfu.c:243: status->bState: dfuIDLE (0x02)
dfu.c:244: status->iString: 0x00
dfu.c:245: ------------------------------
dfu.c:696: State: dfuIDLE (2)
atmel.c:287: ERROR allocating 0x10000 bytes of memory.
commands.c:238: ERROR initializing a buffer.
libusb: debug [libusb_release_interface] interface 0
libusb: debug [libusb_close]
libusb: debug [libusb_exit]
libusb: debug [libusb_exit] destroying default context
atmel.c:287: ERROR allocating 0x10000 bytes of memory.
commands.c:238: ERROR initializing a buffer.
I'm trying to pair the keyboard on my Alienware PC with Windows 10, and it doesn't seem to show up as a detected device.
It works fine on my iPhone, LG G3 phone and my Macbook Pro.
Has anyone else had this issue?
That Alienware PC supports classic bluetooth(BT3.0 or 2.1)? HHKB Alt controller uses Bluetooth 2.1, so host has to support classic Bluetooth. These days many PC/Mac/Phones have support for both BLE(4.1/4.0) and classic but some may have only BLE. With quick browsing on dell.com it says only about BT4.1 support on the latest Alienware product but does not refer to classic BT.
And when Alt controller is connected to a host, other hosts cannot find it. You have to disconnect from the host before trying new host. Easy way to disconnect is pressing LShift+RShift+p to enter pairing mode.
Laser, unfotunately TMK doesn't support any indication for layer switch at this time. But some people have added such function in some ways.
see this for example. https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/pull/198
Hey Hasu,
I wasn't sure if your USB controller would allow me to program my HHKB to Colemak and allow the Control button to be Backspace?
Thanks
rdjack21,
youre right, it is limited to 32 in keymap framework unfortunately. If this is not enough you can actionmap framework which has no the 32-limitation. In actionmap you can define 256 macros, if this is not enough it is time to write your own firmware.
Try this 'actionmap' branch and you can find actionmap examples under keyboard/alps64/.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/tree/actionmap
EDIT: Note that actiomap uses 16-bit action codes instead of 8-bit keycodes this inflates your key mapping space twice in flash. Firmware is already bloated fairly this may cause short of flash memory.
Size after:
text data bss dec hex filename
21178 56 182 21416 53a8 hhkb_lufa.elf
-------- end --------
3.1.4 Disabling Output DriversSee http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/bluetooth_cr_UG-v1.0r.pdf
Use the S%,1000 command to set all GPIO pins (0 to 11) to inputs. This command also
turns off the FireFly adapter LED (GPIO5). Refer to “GPIO Commands” on page 37 for
more information on using commands to control the GPIO pins.
According to manual "S%,1000" should change only GPIO5 keeping other GPIOs intact. wierd.
Will this make the media controls work on windows?
Will this make the media controls work on windows?
It should work. What is "media controls" you intend actually?
I usually use volume controls(up, down mute) but not others. I'll test them if you want.
It should work and confirmed once at least some point in past. Which keycodes are you using in fact? And USB or Bluetooth?I haven't installed the controller yet, I just know stock controller works only in mac. I thought i'd just ask before I installed your controller, because media controls was the big thing I wanted to work
Some keycodes work in Windows but not in Mac and vice versa, iirc.
EDIT: And what app are you trying? winamp? media player?
It should work and confirmed once at least some point in past. Which keycodes are you using in fact? And USB or Bluetooth?I haven't installed the controller yet, I just know stock controller works only in mac. I thought i'd just ask before I installed your controller, because media controls was the big thing I wanted to work
Some keycodes work in Windows but not in Mac and vice versa, iirc.
EDIT: And what app are you trying? winamp? media player?
hi Hasu, I know this is for HHKB only. Will you be making pcbs for other Topre keyboards? Like the realforce,novatouch and leopolds? If not, would the usb-usb converter be best if I want to fully program other topre keyboards? Thanks.
Hello,
I have the controller working fine through USB. When I try to pair via bluetooth on my mac, I am getting a bad passkey error (it is trying to use 0000). My mac is kind of old. Is it possible my bluetooth is too old? Or is there a passkey that I don't know?
edit: when i tried to pair it with my laptop (the computer i actually want bluetooth on) it just took a few attempts then it connected. it is a little weird, but it is working!
Thanks!
I think my old Mac's Bluetooth is dying. My apple trackpad won't connect any more either.Hello,
I have the controller working fine through USB. When I try to pair via bluetooth on my mac, I am getting a bad passkey error (it is trying to use 0000). My mac is kind of old. Is it possible my bluetooth is too old? Or is there a passkey that I don't know?
edit: when i tried to pair it with my laptop (the computer i actually want bluetooth on) it just took a few attempts then it connected. it is a little weird, but it is working!
Thanks!
Hi,
Pin code is 1234 it is usually not required in pairing process. But old host may require it, I don't know much about this and I've never used the pin code so far.
EDIT: If your buletooth host is 2.1 or up it suppors SSP(simple secure pairing) which doesn't require pin code as far as I know.
hasu, any plans to tackle on the new HHKB ProBT? I wan't to get one, but without customization of your controllers it's useless.
Cheers.
hasu, any plans to tackle on the new HHKB ProBT? I wan't to get one, but without customization of your controllers it's useless.
Cheers.
Hi there, I just was testing my Hasu BT HHKB 2 controller and seems to be have a problem. After setting it on USB mode (without battery installed) it'll get detected, but will disconnect after 10-20 seconds. The green LED flashes red twice then goes solid green; after 10-20s, it turns off and gets disconnected. Earlier, I tried connecting the controller directly to USB w/o attaching it on to the board. Did I fry something or do something wrong?
Hey, just took your suggestion, and tried a different USB cable. Still no go... Green LED turns on and keyboard works for around 10-20s and then LED blinks out and not connection :(
Pretty unfortunate, because my VB87M 1200 mAh Li-Ion battery works on this controller only for about 2 hours.
I don't know why, maybe a ****ty battery, I don't know how to test the capacity.
Also it doesn't charge up to 4.2V, the working voltage in hid_listen is about 3.7-3.5V then it shuts down.
I've already ordered Happy Hacking Professional BT, should arrive in a couple of days.
Joric,
Now I come to think your battery charger was broken by connecting battery with reverse polarity. So the battery is not fully charged with the controller. The charger chips seems to have reverse polarity protection in power input side but not in battery side.
You can get replacement for the part from me, I think you have decent tools and skill to replace it but I can do it for you if you send it back to me. Contact me.
Is it possible to map for example ("CTRL" + ",") to "<", and ("CTRL + ".") to ">"?
I recently changed to using my HHKB on a W10 PC instead of a Mac, and it turns out it's difficult to use custom keymaps :(
diff --git a/keyboard/hhkb/rn42/rn42.c b/keyboard/hhkb/rn42/rn42.c
index 710169e..0af0daf 100644
--- a/keyboard/hhkb/rn42/rn42.c
+++ b/keyboard/hhkb/rn42/rn42.c
@@ -235,3 +235,16 @@ static void config_send_keyboard(report_keyboard_t *report) {}
static void config_send_mouse(report_mouse_t *report) {}
static void config_send_system(uint16_t data) {}
static void config_send_consumer(uint16_t data) {}
+
+void rn42_printf(const char * format, ...) {
+ int i;
+ char buf[16];
+ va_list args;
+ va_start(args, format);
+ vsprintf(buf, format, args);
+ va_end(args);
+ for (i=0; i<strlen(buf); i++) {
+ serial_send(buf[i]);
+ }
+}
+
diff --git a/keyboard/hhkb/rn42/rn42.h b/keyboard/hhkb/rn42/rn42.h
index db6916f..9ec0d0c 100644
--- a/keyboard/hhkb/rn42/rn42.h
+++ b/keyboard/hhkb/rn42/rn42.h
@@ -19,5 +19,6 @@ void rn42_cts_hi(void);
void rn42_cts_lo(void);
bool rn42_linked(void);
void rn42_set_leds(uint8_t l);
+void rn42_printf(const char * format, ...);
#endif
diff --git a/keyboard/hhkb/rn42/rn42_task.c b/keyboard/hhkb/rn42/rn42_task.c
index 5107fef..e465eaa 100644
--- a/keyboard/hhkb/rn42/rn42_task.c
+++ b/keyboard/hhkb/rn42/rn42_task.c
@@ -364,6 +364,7 @@ bool command_extra(uint8_t code)
xprintf("%02u:", t/3600);
xprintf("%02u:", t%3600/60);
xprintf("%02u\n", t%60);
+ rn42_printf("BAT: %umV\t", b);
return true;
case KC_U:
if (config_mode) return false;
1. No, get lipo battery. Btw, what is your experience in fact?
2. Sparkfun or adafruit are recommended. See the first post.
3. Yes, this is completely programmable with tmk. Tmk primarily exists my hhkb controller. I guess it is compatible with easy avr in terms of hardware but not supported at this time.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Hey, hasu
I have a strange problem with my controller. No input is registered but the keyboard is still recognized by my machine and I can still flash the firmware.
The keyboard works fine with original controller.
Any ideas?
1) Plug with holding Space and Backspace key to clear BootMagic configuration.This solved the issue, thanks.
childofthehorn, Thanks for your report and offer. yes, longer wire is nice :D some of batteries has too short wire for my controller :(
Trev, some people have reported problems with UEFI and USB3, but unfortunately I don't have any system with those to debug yet. I have slightly a plan to update my computer though.
NKRO is well known for its problem with BIOS/UEFI, trun off NKRO mode if you using it.
Look ma! no hands!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Qiv61FJ.jpg)
Trev,
Could you see if there is difference between stock HHKB with turning DIPSW6 on and off? This switch enable/disables USB remote wakeup function, which is related for wake a computer up from keyboard.
And please try this firmware without media keys, mouse keys and NKRO, which acts as a just very simple 6KRO keyboard. I think this confirms if those functions are culprit or not.
Thank you for the posting. Nice to know.
As for Sparkfun 2000mAh, I got one from local shop the other day and it does't fit in the place unfortunately.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zo8Uyq2l.jpg)
Thank you for the posting. Nice to know.
As for Sparkfun 2000mAh, I got one from local shop the other day and it does't fit in the place unfortunately.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zo8Uyq2l.jpg)
Is it possible to cut out that tiny part thats obstructing the battery? I just received mine and I'm having the same issue (theres no other room to place it)
I'm also curious, has anyone figured out how to get Mac OSX to read/report the bluetooth battery bar? For some reason its not picking it up from the board or maybe I need to do something to the board to report it to the host?Battery report is not supported by the bluetooth module, you cannot get battery status unfortunately.
And lastly, How difficult would it be to have some kind of timer to automatically put the board into "sleep" mode if no input is seen for X amount of time? I'm just trying to brainstorm some ideas to make the battery last longer. I cant be the only one that constantly leaves it on and walks away.It is not difficult to enter power saving mode after some of unused duration but power saving methods of this bluetooth module is not so useful and effective. It will be impossible(or very difficult) to make it sleep with keeping connection or resume it from sleep quickly.
A few days ago I ordered a couple of Hasu's alternate HHKB controllers (Pro1 and Pro2, both USB). They arrived yesterday. Setting them up and flashing them was a breeze. Thanks, Hasu! :)
I'm also curious, has anyone figured out how to get Mac OSX to read/report the bluetooth battery bar? For some reason its not picking it up from the board or maybe I need to do something to the board to report it to the host?Battery report is not supported by the bluetooth module, you cannot get battery status unfortunately.QuoteAnd lastly, How difficult would it be to have some kind of timer to automatically put the board into "sleep" mode if no input is seen for X amount of time? I'm just trying to brainstorm some ideas to make the battery last longer. I cant be the only one that constantly leaves it on and walks away.It is not difficult to enter power saving mode after some of unused duration but power saving methods of this bluetooth module is not so useful and effective. It will be impossible(or very difficult) to make it sleep with keeping connection or resume it from sleep quickly.
This module is extremely useful and stable to implement BT keyboard while very power hog or difficult to control for saving power.
Ok so its the bluetooth module on the board that doesn't report batter level - oh well. One day!
As for the "sleep" function... but is it possible? Lets just say if you don't press a key for ~30 minutes it should shut off and you then have to hit a key to wake it up?
I feel like that would be so helpful. Or maybe i just keep going for larger and larger batteries!
Ok so its the bluetooth module on the board that doesn't report batter level - oh well. One day!
As for the "sleep" function... but is it possible? Lets just say if you don't press a key for ~30 minutes it should shut off and you then have to hit a key to wake it up?
I feel like that would be so helpful. Or maybe i just keep going for larger and larger batteries!
hmm, maybe possible but I think very difficult to get effective power saving without sacrificing typing experience, namely, latency and quickly resuming.
You will have to disconnect current session and turn the module into low power mode to reduce power consumption. But it takes several secs to connect it again when resuming.
Also you can configure Sniff parameter to save battery but it cause latency on typing experience.
You can consult documentations of the module, see 5 Power Management especially.
https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Wireless/Bluetooth/rn-bluetooth-um.pdf
SW,<hex word> Enable low power SNIFF mode. Default is 0000=disabled. SNIFF mode allows
extreme low power operation. Device goes into a deep sleep, and wakes up every
625us * <hex word> to send/receive chars.
Example: SW,0050 enables Sniff mode with interval time of 50 milliseconds
This will cause the module to enter low power sleep, and wake once every 50
milliseconds to check for RF activity. See Section 5.2 for more details on Sniff and
managing power.
Ok so its the bluetooth module on the board that doesn't report batter level - oh well. One day!
As for the "sleep" function... but is it possible? Lets just say if you don't press a key for ~30 minutes it should shut off and you then have to hit a key to wake it up?
I feel like that would be so helpful. Or maybe i just keep going for larger and larger batteries!
hmm, maybe possible but I think very difficult to get effective power saving without sacrificing typing experience, namely, latency and quickly resuming.
You will have to disconnect current session and turn the module into low power mode to reduce power consumption. But it takes several secs to connect it again when resuming.
Also you can configure Sniff parameter to save battery but it cause latency on typing experience.
You can consult documentations of the module, see 5 Power Management especially.
https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Wireless/Bluetooth/rn-bluetooth-um.pdf
Yeah that sounds exactly what i'd be wanting to test out. "Sniff" seems to be a bluetooth function that allows for a low power mode that wakes up on its own within milliseconds? Have you tried it and it does not "feel" right? I'm just wondering if we could push this battery life out for days instead of hours.QuoteSW,<hex word> Enable low power SNIFF mode. Default is 0000=disabled. SNIFF mode allows
extreme low power operation. Device goes into a deep sleep, and wakes up every
625us * <hex word> to send/receive chars.
Example: SW,0050 enables Sniff mode with interval time of 50 milliseconds
This will cause the module to enter low power sleep, and wake once every 50
milliseconds to check for RF activity. See Section 5.2 for more details on Sniff and
managing power.
Battery report is not supported by the bluetooth module, you cannot get battery status unfortunately.Are you planning to support NTC in the near future? Maybe with another revision?
Battery report is not supported by the bluetooth module, you cannot get battery status unfortunately.Are you planning to support NTC in the near future? Maybe with another revision?
Apart from this it works flawlessly with Android!
Anyone have any issues with hasu controller not being recognized on start up?
(i.e. shutting down > powering on > get the bios error "no keyboard recognized")
interested in the BT for hhkb 2.0 but the power consumption is a bit much. HHKB BT official can get 3 months off 3 AA's. Is there any progress on improving battery life?
Atmel has the SAM B11 modules for very low power BLE SoC, or upgrading the atmega here to one that has onboard USB would be interesting...I'm more of a software than HW person so I couldn't help much on the board design (I'd be happy to learn)
btw, the LED lights ORANGE instead RED while charging, is it normal?
btw, the LED lights ORANGE instead RED while charging, is it normal?
yeah mine looks orange too while charging... then green when it is full. I think that is normal.
interested in the BT for hhkb 2.0 but the power consumption is a bit much. HHKB BT official can get 3 months off 3 AA's. Is there any progress on improving battery life?
Atmel has the SAM B11 modules for very low power BLE SoC, or upgrading the atmega here to one that has onboard USB would be interesting...I'm more of a software than HW person so I couldn't help much on the board design (I'd be happy to learn)
I think you basically need new hardware design and new module to save power greatly.
In current controller one half of power is consumed for scanning HHKB switches and another for Bluetooth. HHKB switches require 5V, draw around 15-20mA at all times and take long time(10-15ms) to scan all its matrix, it will need new desgin PCB with low voltage and fast capacitive sense method to save more power. Current bluetooth module is very useful and easy to make keyboard while it deosn't take care of power saving much. New modules would be great for power saving and new BT4.x. That said, my firmware is not optimized fully, there is still room to improvement battery life 30-40% longer.
I think PFU HHKB BT uses new fast scanning method with low voltage and Broadcom module well known for very low power drain.
Sys Power(Fn+ESC) key works in USB mode but fails in BT mode
From my iPhone,using Tapatalk
btw, the LED lights ORANGE instead RED while charging, is it normal?
yeah mine looks orange too while charging... then green when it is full. I think that is normal.
Is it possible to map nordic characters like ÆØ to certain keys? :)I think it is possible but depends largely on your layout on your OS. Maybe you have to compile yourself to define macro or function. As of now keymap editor won't support this yet.
Laser,
1. No. This controller reads digital(on/off) switch status from Topre capacitive sensor chip, to get analog status you have to read directly swtich capactive without the Topre chip. You need to modify switch matrix PCB, namely. See this thread, in this project I read real values direlctly from Realforce switches.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=76040.0
2. You have to write code for the extra switch in C. You can learn TMK code and C if needed.
btw, the LED lights ORANGE instead RED while charging, is it normal?
yeah mine looks orange too while charging... then green when it is full. I think that is normal.
hey OfTheWild, thanks for that!
and one more thing, with usb cable disconnected, after i switched off the BT mode and switched on again, my hhkb will not auto connect to my MacOS(which the keyboard connected last time), the keyboard icon in my BT setting stays "unconnected", and i have to reconnect it to let it work, is there any way to make it auto connected after i swtiched on?
Hey Hasu,
I have been using the BT controller for about 2 months now and it works great! Thank you!
Is it possible to switch to a different device that my hhkb is paird with, using keystrokes? Similar fashion to how the Logitech MX master handles device pairing?
Sorry if I am unclear, thank you!
btw, the LED lights ORANGE instead RED while charging, is it normal?
yeah mine looks orange too while charging... then green when it is full. I think that is normal.
hey OfTheWild, thanks for that!
and one more thing, with usb cable disconnected, after i switched off the BT mode and switched on again, my hhkb will not auto connect to my MacOS(which the keyboard connected last time), the keyboard icon in my BT setting stays "unconnected", and i have to reconnect it to let it work, is there any way to make it auto connected after i swtiched on?
Mine connects automatically each time I turn it on. I dont have to mess with bluetooth or devices at all.
Even when its not connected it still shows up in my devices like this: http://imgur.com/FbtESL2
(i renamed it to hhkb pro2). It should remember its settings. It does take a while to connect sometimes. I found that I usually need to be logged in when it connects from being asleep.
Is it possible to use the BT without a battery installed?
What I want to do is have the HHKB connected to my PC over USB, and flick the switch when needed to have it connect via BT to my phone, all while powered via the USB on the PC.
Is this possible?
Yes, it is possible. You can use the controller without battery and switch between USB and Bluetooth by slide switch or key combo(LShift+RShift+u).
Thanks Hasu for your work on this pcb
I actually noticed that the adafruit 2000 has been out of a stock for a while.
I managed to buy a 1000mah battery from this online retailer (located in Germany)
http://www.exp-tech.de/polymer-lithium-ion-battery-1000mah
But since the cable was a bit short I have a bit of the battery overlapping the PCB :-[ I'm guessing this shouldn't be done?
My only option is to go with this battery
http://www.exp-tech.de/lipo-akku-2000mah
but the dimensions are : 73mm x 50mm x 5mm
Could this be an issue? or alternatively is there somewhere in Germany I can purchase this battery without paying a shipping cost that exceeds the cost of the initial battery?
But since the cable was a bit short I have a bit of the battery overlapping the PCB :-[ I'm guessing this shouldn't be done?
I just installed the BT controller over the holidays - very cool!
Question: when connected to my laptop via BT, it seems to interfere with the laptop's wifi. Is this a common occurrence? Would it be fixed via firmware, or would it only be the laptop wifi card with the issues?
Hi hasu,
Do you have plan to release a version with USB-C port? I broke the usb mini port again and now trying to re soldering it...
Thanks Hasu for your work on this pcb
I actually noticed that the adafruit 2000 has been out of a stock for a while.
I managed to buy a 1000mah battery from this online retailer (located in Germany)
http://www.exp-tech.de/polymer-lithium-ion-battery-1000mah
But since the cable was a bit short I have a bit of the battery overlapping the PCB :-[ I'm guessing this shouldn't be done?
My only option is to go with this battery
http://www.exp-tech.de/lipo-akku-2000mah
but the dimensions are : 73mm x 50mm x 5mm
Could this be an issue? or alternatively is there somewhere in Germany I can purchase this battery without paying a shipping cost that exceeds the cost of the initial battery?
Have you tried aliexpress, free epacket shipping to Germany... all the sizes of the battery you could want ;)
I noticed that it will detect the keyboard over USB but no luck over BT, so basically the battery voltage is showing what the board is receiving over USB, so I still can't tell how much charge is left in the lipo battery
Hi testplsignore,
yes, I'll do if new module supports the function. But current module has no such feature unfortunately.
In general every Realforce has one large PCB and it would cost much to replace the PCB, plus controller have to do capacitive sensing. It is still possible and intriguing to me.
This project used modified original PCB but my TMK firmware sensing capacitive switches by itself. With this we can desgin our own PCB for Realforce to control by our own firmware.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=76040.msg1894368#msg1894368
Hi hasu,
Do you have plan to release a version with USB-C port? I broke the usb mini port again and now trying to re soldering it...
Hi Xe0n0,
No plan on USB-C, HHKB case is not compatible with Type-C unless you are willing to file connector hole.
sounds terrible :(
Email me if you want me to fix it or send component. I'm happy to help.
Or you can post pic of your controller here and let me think how I can help.
Hi testplsignore,
yes, I'll do if new module supports the function. But current module has no such feature unfortunately.
In general every Realforce has one large PCB and it would cost much to replace the PCB, plus controller have to do capacitive sensing. It is still possible and intriguing to me.
This project used modified original PCB but my TMK firmware sensing capacitive switches by itself. With this we can desgin our own PCB for Realforce to control by our own firmware.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=76040.msg1894368#msg1894368
There is a big demand for a FC660C controller that will run your firmware. There are a bunch of people asking for it ;D whenever you have time that is!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also, it would be "more than awesome" to port TMK firmware on a Novatouch (Topre PCB) keyboard ... there are some resources about its build/firmware aspects, here:
- http://vekkt0r.github.io/articles/novatouch-tkl-reverse-engineering-part-1/
- http://vekkt0r.github.io/articles/novatouch-tkk-reverse-engineering-part-2/
And it's possible to reflash a modified firmware, in certain cases using just the default USB connection (2nd method here):
- https://github.com/vekkt0r/novatools (and also the "Issue 1" thread (https://github.com/vekkt0r/novatools/issues/1))
I apologize if this was already covered and I missed it, but can you use any unprotected battery of the proper voltage or must it have its own protection pcb?
Is there anyone uses BT controller via Bluetooth with MacOS Sierra 10.12 successfully?
Or let me know if you have any problem with the OS.
No plan.Sad. Looks like sell my hhkb bt is a better way.
Sent from my Nexus 5X
Check this. Novatouch is similar in terms of microcontroller. https://github.com/vekkt0r/novatools
This guy is a real hacker and I believe he or she can hack HHKB BT. Throw a lot of money or contribute the board on this person.
This is the best way to make BT programmable.
Sent from my Nexus 5X
System control is not supportedNot sure if this above quote is relevant, but...
It can't send Power, Wake and Sleep keys.
Hi guys! (I think I posted this on the wrong thread earlier)QuoteSystem control is not supportedNot sure if this above quote is relevant, but...
It can't send Power, Wake and Sleep keys.
I currently have the DIP switch 6 on for my HHKB which allows me to wake up my mac using the HHKB. Will the BT controller affect that functionality? If it's relevant, I am on Sierra OSx 10.12.2.
Hi guys! (I think I posted this on the wrong thread earlier)QuoteSystem control is not supportedNot sure if this above quote is relevant, but...
It can't send Power, Wake and Sleep keys.
I currently have the DIP switch 6 on for my HHKB which allows me to wake up my mac using the HHKB. Will the BT controller affect that functionality? If it's relevant, I am on Sierra OSx 10.12.2.
At least, on Linux(Ubuntu) and Windows 10 you can wake up your computer by pressing any key in USB mode(with Bluetooth is turned off). I think it works also with Mac but I don't have the OS. Anyone with Mac can confirm it?
System control keys is not related to whether you can wake up computer, in this case.
Hi guys! (I think I posted this on the wrong thread earlier)QuoteSystem control is not supportedNot sure if this above quote is relevant, but...
It can't send Power, Wake and Sleep keys.
I currently have the DIP switch 6 on for my HHKB which allows me to wake up my mac using the HHKB. Will the BT controller affect that functionality? If it's relevant, I am on Sierra OSx 10.12.2.
At least, on Linux(Ubuntu) and Windows 10 you can wake up your computer by pressing any key in USB mode(with Bluetooth is turned off). I think it works also with Mac but I don't have the OS. Anyone with Mac can confirm it?
System control keys is not related to whether you can wake up computer, in this case.
Wake up from sleep works for me in both usb mode and in bluetooth mode. I'm on Sierra 10.12.3.
Is there any reason not to bluetooth a Pro non-2?
Hi testplsignore,
yes, I'll do if new module supports the function. But current module has no such feature unfortunately.
In general every Realforce has one large PCB and it would cost much to replace the PCB, plus controller have to do capacitive sensing. It is still possible and intriguing to me.
This project used modified original PCB but my TMK firmware sensing capacitive switches by itself. With this we can desgin our own PCB for Realforce to control by our own firmware.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=76040.msg1894368#msg1894368
There is a big demand for a FC660C controller that will run your firmware. There are a bunch of people asking for it ;D whenever you have time that is!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I changed mind and got FC660C today :thumb:This is very exciting! You are the best, Hasu! ^-^
Subscribe this thread I'll post there if you are interested.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=54222.0 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=54222.0)
I changed mind and got FC660C today :thumb:
Subscribe this thread I'll post there if you are interested.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=54222.0
Hi hasu,
Do you have plan to release a version with USB-C port? I broke the usb mini port again and now trying to re soldering it...
Hi Xe0n0,
No plan on USB-C, HHKB case is not compatible with Type-C unless you are willing to file connector hole.
sounds terrible :(
Email me if you want me to fix it or send component. I'm happy to help.
Or you can post pic of your controller here and let me think how I can help.
Thanks for offering help : ) I just bought the usb-type-c mod for hhkb by manisteinn (https://github.com/manisteinn/usb-type-c-hhkb (https://github.com/manisteinn/usb-type-c-hhkb)) and trying to change the port to usb-c. I would not be hesitated to buy two boards from you again if you offer usb-c moded board with this mod!
Is the JP BT controller in stock?
Has anyone installed this controller on an HHKB Pro JP before? I'm a bit worried about drilling holes into the case as I've never done this kind of thing before.
Any pics or advice on how to do it? (And I don't suppose I could buy an original HHKB Pro 2 case anywhere?)
I'm having some latency sometimes when I'm pressing multiple keys on my bt controller. It doesn't happen often, but sometimes it will fail to register when I try to press like 3 keys at once. (cmd + alt + arrow that I mapped to the lower right) for example. Is there a way to increase the scan rate or something? I might try reverting to the regular board to see if that's just the bt board having issues though, I got this hhkb in a trade that came with a hasu controller preinstalled. Thanks!
diff --git a/tmk_core/common/keyboard.c b/tmk_core/common/keyboard.c
index b031936..6057ea1 100644
--- a/tmk_core/common/keyboard.c
+++ b/tmk_core/common/keyboard.c
@@ -137,8 +137,10 @@ void keyboard_task(void)
hook_matrix_change(e);
// record a processed key
matrix_prev[r] ^= ((matrix_row_t)1<<c);
+
+ // This can miss stroke when scan matrix takes long like Topre
// process a key per task call
- goto MATRIX_LOOP_END;
+ //goto MATRIX_LOOP_END;
}
}
}
diff --git a/keyboard/hhkb/matrix.c b/keyboard/hhkb/matrix.c
index 08721fc..62f73c4 100644
--- a/keyboard/hhkb/matrix.c
+++ b/keyboard/hhkb/matrix.c
@@ -125,7 +125,7 @@ uint8_t matrix_scan(void)
// or it can drop keys in fast key typing
_delay_us(30);
#else
- _delay_us(75);
+ _delay_us(30);
#endif
}
if (matrix[row] ^ matrix_prev[row]) matrix_last_modified = timer_read32();
Welp, the lag is still there sometimes. Yes, 4 key combos misses sometimes. I'm currently using 3 keys, and it seems better, but it still misses occasionally. I'm going to try to increase the scan rate too to test how it goes. (probably not to 30, 60 seems like a safe bet at the moment). Thanks! PS: yes I'm on a MacI'm having some latency sometimes when I'm pressing multiple keys on my bt controller. It doesn't happen often, but sometimes it will fail to register when I try to press like 3 keys at once. (cmd + alt + arrow that I mapped to the lower right) for example. Is there a way to increase the scan rate or something? I might try reverting to the regular board to see if that's just the bt board having issues though, I got this hhkb in a trade that came with a hasu controller preinstalled. Thanks!
Assuming you are using Pro2, so you press 4 keys actually including Fn to register the key combo, right? And it would be helpful to narrow possible causes and debug if you can share your keymap.
This latency happens with Bluetooth, USB or both? And you are using it on Mac, right?
Could you try this patch? This doesn't increase scan rate but may solve or mitigates the issue.Code: [Select]diff --git a/tmk_core/common/keyboard.c b/tmk_core/common/keyboard.c
index b031936..6057ea1 100644
--- a/tmk_core/common/keyboard.c
+++ b/tmk_core/common/keyboard.c
@@ -137,8 +137,10 @@ void keyboard_task(void)
hook_matrix_change(e);
// record a processed key
matrix_prev[r] ^= ((matrix_row_t)1<<c);
+
+ // This can miss stroke when scan matrix takes long like Topre
// process a key per task call
- goto MATRIX_LOOP_END;
+ //goto MATRIX_LOOP_END;
}
}
}
johnthedong,I'm using it with Chrome/terminal, to switch tabs. When it fails it simply doesn't change the tab. I'm sure I identified the problem though (no NKRO over bluetooth) as it works over USB nicely, but thanks again for helping! PS: the media keys (vol +, vol -, play/pause, next song) doesn't work over USB for some strange reason, but when I use bluetooth all is fine.
What happens accutally when pressing 'cmd + alt + arrow' successfully and what happens when it fails?
And what application are you using with this key combo in fact?
I need more info to know what happens, not that I'm blaming the OS, apps.
Is it possible to turn off the BT LED using any Magic button combination? Reason being that I'm using the dust covers for both of the holes (led and switch), and while I can use the LSHIFT+RSHIFT+U to turn on/off the bluetooth, the LED stays on. If I change it to USB mode entirely via the switch, I can't enable the bluetooth again using LSHIFT+RSHIFT+U. Thanks!
Is there anyway to solder on a USB port to any of the HASU controllers? I really want to upgrade my stock HHKB controller to HASU but I can't without at least 1 USB port available.
Is there anyway to solder on a USB port to any of the HASU controllers? I really want to upgrade my stock HHKB controller to HASU but I can't without at least 1 USB port available.
Hello Hasu, do others BT peripherals interfere with Hasu BT controller HHKB?
I mean i noticed for example, two peripherals increase input lag (BT headset sound lagging/freezing while PS4 pad got heavy input lag)
Have been contemplating to upgrade my HHKB with Hasu's controller.
One big question is if I can use my HHKB with an iPad, and I have the following questions around connecting a HHKB to an iPad (thunderbolt versions) using a 'USB Camera adapter' and a mini-B cable:
Does any of these settings work with an iPad?
1. HHKB Pro 2 with Hasu BT controller using cable+adapter connected to iPad
2. HHKB Pro 2 with Hasu controller using cable+adapter connected to iPad
3. HHKB Pro 1 with Hasu controller (for Pro 1) using cable+adapter connected to iPad
BT is nice but cable connectivity is essential.
Thanks in advance.
Hasu BT controller should work via BT connection to iPad, and BT is a big plus for either home use or on the road. But BT has its limitations and I'm not keen on always watching out for whether this or that device is going to run out of juice.
What is unfair is that HHKP Pro 1 and HHKP JP (with their unmodified original controllers) can connect to iPads through cable without any problem; it's just HHKB Pro 2's original controller.
Please do if you have the chance and I'm also looking forward to Hasu's answer (I'm not sure if he has access to an iPad model with thunderbolt socket)
Hasu BT controller should work via BT connection to iPad, and BT is a big plus for either home use or on the road. But BT has its limitations and I'm not keen on always watching out for whether this or that device is going to run out of juice.
What is unfair is that HHKP Pro 1 and HHKP JP (with their unmodified original controllers) can connect to iPads through cable without any problem; it's just HHKB Pro 2's original controller.
Please do if you have the chance and I'm also looking forward to Hasu's answer (I'm not sure if he has access to an iPad model with thunderbolt socket)
Hasu BT controller should work via BT connection to iPad, and BT is a big plus for either home use or on the road. But BT has its limitations and I'm not keen on always watching out for whether this or that device is going to run out of juice.
What is unfair is that HHKP Pro 1 and HHKP JP (with their unmodified original controllers) can connect to iPads through cable without any problem; it's just HHKB Pro 2's original controller.
Please do if you have the chance and I'm also looking forward to Hasu's answer (I'm not sure if he has access to an iPad model with thunderbolt socket)
I can confirm 100% that it works with an iPad air 2. Just disconnected it from my laptop and connected it to the iPad, works like a charm. Skip the wires and use bluetooth. That's like the perfect travelling work setup if you use Vim over ssh on an iPad. :)
Hasu BT controller should work via BT connection to iPad, and BT is a big plus for either home use or on the road. But BT has its limitations and I'm not keen on always watching out for whether this or that device is going to run out of juice.
What is unfair is that HHKP Pro 1 and HHKP JP (with their unmodified original controllers) can connect to iPads through cable without any problem; it's just HHKB Pro 2's original controller.
Please do if you have the chance and I'm also looking forward to Hasu's answer (I'm not sure if he has access to an iPad model with thunderbolt socket)
I can confirm 100% that it works with an iPad air 2. Just disconnected it from my laptop and connected it to the iPad, works like a charm. Skip the wires and use bluetooth. That's like the perfect travelling work setup if you use Vim over ssh on an iPad. :)
Thanks! :thumb:
Vim on my HHKB..? :confused: Please don't get me started on the whole holy editor debate. ;)
Hi All, Can anyone tell me if there's a key combo that puts HHKB USB Hasu controller into programming mode so I won't need to press the button on the controller? Can't seem to find this info anywhere. Currently I'm using this layout if that's relevant: https://goo.gl/U6wWNh.
You can start bootloader(programming/flash mode) with pressing both shifts and pause, which is called as "magic command".
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard#magic-commands
But it seems your layout has no pause key.
Unused pins on USB controler are PD0,1,2,3,5, PE6 and PF0,4,5,6,7. PC6,7 are also available unless controller is for JP. See shcematic for deital.
http://i.imgur.com/tIYI5TX.png
http://i.imgur.com/3EB0Lq8.png
Pins you can solder easily using through hole pads are PD0,1 and PF5.
http://i.imgur.com/EwIVNl3.jpg
Hey all,
If I use the eBay battery in the "confirmed" section (this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/261625368941)), instead of crimping the connectors - will connecting a premade one (like these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/222355430302?var=521219286311)) work? Thanks :)
It will work.
Would a JP bottom case fit on a Pro 2 with the stock controller, or will it be blocked by the USB ports?
which key codes are you referring actually?
this wiki page may help.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/wiki/FAQ-Keymap#media-control-keys-in-mac-osx
MUTE,VOLD,VOLU,MPLY,MFFD
ah, Im not if those keys work with sierra.
we need other Sierra users to help.
which key codes are you referring actually?
this wiki page may help.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/wiki/FAQ-Keymap#media-control-keys-in-mac-osx
Hmm, here's the key codes I tried:Code: [Select]MUTE,VOLD,VOLU,MPLY,MFFD
I discovered that they don't work on their own, even if I remap them to layer 1. I'm on MacOS Sierra.
which key codes are you referring actually?
this wiki page may help.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/wiki/FAQ-Keymap#media-control-keys-in-mac-osx
Hmm, here's the key codes I tried:Code: [Select]MUTE,VOLD,VOLU,MPLY,MFFD
I discovered that they don't work on their own, even if I remap them to layer 1. I'm on MacOS Sierra.
I'm on Sierra and these codes are working. Tested on a Macbook Pro running 10.12.4 and a Hackintosh running 10.12.0
I couldn't find info on this but is there an estimate on how long a 2000mah battery will last before needing a charge?With all day use at work (about 8 hours on and off) and some at home in the evenings, I'm having to recharge every 3-4 days so I would say Hasu is right there. It's not bad at all. Just keep an eye on the battery indicator as letting it drain can mess up the battery.
1. yes
2. without case mod it will be difficult to find battery beyond that capacity.
3. not sure your concern but switch BT off when you want to save battery.
4. without USB power around 80-90mah from battery when BT is turned on, vs 0 when off.
5. not sure. can you rephrase?
how do u discriminate between switch off and power off?
Hi -
I read your first page - after receiving your controller test it before flashing. I am inexperience in modding and probably won't install it until I purchased all the mods which is a few months. Do I need to worry about being out of stock (JP BT)? or buy it now and if I find out it's defective few months later you'll still offer repair service?
Thanks
just got my controller today i'm not sure what i did wrong tho. i used the tmk layout editor(from http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/index.html) to generate a hex file (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3ALbowUgqlSdFVaS2RUM1hIaWM) but when i try to load it onto my controller with flip nothing happens. the program function fails to do anything. am i doing something wrong? i could use some help.
Assuming that you checked first post and followed this instruction, describe your problem for detail. Posting screenshot and error mesage would be helpful. And your os version and your controller variant would be useful.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/wiki#flash-firmware
Quote
Assuming that you checked first post and followed this instruction, describe your problem for detail. Posting screenshot and error mesage would be helpful. And your os version and your controller variant would be useful.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/wiki#flash-firmware
i had my friend help me out with it thank you hasu! great controller and fast shipping thank you for your work!
I removed the ON/OFF switch on my JP Controller, by taking off the upper part of the switch housing (no issues, everything works). If desolder it and completely remove the whole assembly, will this affect the function?
when turn BT switch off and plug in, do you see power LED blinks a few times and then lights?
Hey recently got my controller and installed it, but for some reason the default firmware on the controller works with normal alpha and numbers, but doesnt work for del, enter, backspace, arrow keys, etc. Did I do something wrong during installation? Should I try flashing on another firmware? Mine is a JP version. Sorry for the trouble, thanks for the help!
Hey recently got my controller and installed it, but for some reason the default firmware on the controller works with normal alpha and numbers, but doesnt work for del, enter, backspace, arrow keys, etc. Did I do something wrong during installation? Should I try flashing on another firmware? Mine is a JP version. Sorry for the trouble, thanks for the help!
Hmm, I don't think of cause of that. Do all of alpah and number keys work correctly? Didn't you flash firmware yourself yet? I'd suggest mating connector firmly again and flash firmware downloaded from Keymap Editor.
Let me know which OS you are on and invoice number.
Hey recently got my controller and installed it, but for some reason the default firmware on the controller works with normal alpha and numbers, but doesnt work for del, enter, backspace, arrow keys, etc. Did I do something wrong during installation? Should I try flashing on another firmware? Mine is a JP version. Sorry for the trouble, thanks for the help!
Hmm, I don't think of cause of that. Do all of alpah and number keys work correctly? Didn't you flash firmware yourself yet? I'd suggest mating connector firmly again and flash firmware downloaded from Keymap Editor.
Let me know which OS you are on and invoice number.
Im pretty sure they all do. underscore, period, colon, etc dont work either, but command works. I have yet to flash the firmware yet. I will redo the connector firmly again and flashing the firmware when I get home tonight. Im on OSX, and my invoice was #0880. Thanks for the help!
Hey recently got my controller and installed it, but for some reason the default firmware on the controller works with normal alpha and numbers, but doesnt work for del, enter, backspace, arrow keys, etc. Did I do something wrong during installation? Should I try flashing on another firmware? Mine is a JP version. Sorry for the trouble, thanks for the help!
Hmm, I don't think of cause of that. Do all of alpah and number keys work correctly? Didn't you flash firmware yourself yet? I'd suggest mating connector firmly again and flash firmware downloaded from Keymap Editor.
Let me know which OS you are on and invoice number.
Im pretty sure they all do. underscore, period, colon, etc dont work either, but command works. I have yet to flash the firmware yet. I will redo the connector firmly again and flashing the firmware when I get home tonight. Im on OSX, and my invoice was #0880. Thanks for the help!
I'd suspect something hardware fault on cables, connector or Alt controller if those don't work. Also checking those problematic keys work with original controller would be helpful.
Thanks for your patience.
Hey recently got my controller and installed it, but for some reason the default firmware on the controller works with normal alpha and numbers, but doesnt work for del, enter, backspace, arrow keys, etc. Did I do something wrong during installation? Should I try flashing on another firmware? Mine is a JP version. Sorry for the trouble, thanks for the help!
Hmm, I don't think of cause of that. Do all of alpah and number keys work correctly? Didn't you flash firmware yourself yet? I'd suggest mating connector firmly again and flash firmware downloaded from Keymap Editor.
Let me know which OS you are on and invoice number.
Im pretty sure they all do. underscore, period, colon, etc dont work either, but command works. I have yet to flash the firmware yet. I will redo the connector firmly again and flashing the firmware when I get home tonight. Im on OSX, and my invoice was #0880. Thanks for the help!
I'd suspect something hardware fault on cables, connector or Alt controller if those don't work. Also checking those problematic keys work with original controller would be helpful.
Thanks for your patience.
Ok so this is really weird. When I got home, i decided to try the keyboard one last time on a different (OSX) laptop. When I plugged it in, it worked perfectly fine, no problems at all. When I plug it back into the other laptop, the problems occur again. I also found, that if I am typing alphas in rapid succession, and then press space/enter at the end, it will register the space/enter.....then repeat the space/enter infinitely. I am stumped.
Hey recently got my controller and installed it, but for some reason the default firmware on the controller works with normal alpha and numbers, but doesnt work for del, enter, backspace, arrow keys, etc. Did I do something wrong during installation? Should I try flashing on another firmware? Mine is a JP version. Sorry for the trouble, thanks for the help!
Hmm, I don't think of cause of that. Do all of alpah and number keys work correctly? Didn't you flash firmware yourself yet? I'd suggest mating connector firmly again and flash firmware downloaded from Keymap Editor.
Let me know which OS you are on and invoice number.
Im pretty sure they all do. underscore, period, colon, etc dont work either, but command works. I have yet to flash the firmware yet. I will redo the connector firmly again and flashing the firmware when I get home tonight. Im on OSX, and my invoice was #0880. Thanks for the help!
I'd suspect something hardware fault on cables, connector or Alt controller if those don't work. Also checking those problematic keys work with original controller would be helpful.
Thanks for your patience.
Ok so this is really weird. When I got home, i decided to try the keyboard one last time on a different (OSX) laptop. When I plugged it in, it worked perfectly fine, no problems at all. When I plug it back into the other laptop, the problems occur again. I also found, that if I am typing alphas in rapid succession, and then press space/enter at the end, it will register the space/enter.....then repeat the space/enter infinitely. I am stumped.
Oh, that weird behiviour indicates power supply problem, Topre capacitive sense chip tends to go bad with low voltage. Some of USB cables and USB hub causes this problem in some situations. If you are using external USB hub plug directly into port of laptop. Also wall wart power supply or changing USB cables may fix problem.
But still making sure internal connectors fit into each other is good idea. Bad connection there also can cause wierd problem like that.
Hey recently got my controller and installed it, but for some reason the default firmware on the controller works with normal alpha and numbers, but doesnt work for del, enter, backspace, arrow keys, etc. Did I do something wrong during installation? Should I try flashing on another firmware? Mine is a JP version. Sorry for the trouble, thanks for the help!
Hmm, I don't think of cause of that. Do all of alpah and number keys work correctly? Didn't you flash firmware yourself yet? I'd suggest mating connector firmly again and flash firmware downloaded from Keymap Editor.
Let me know which OS you are on and invoice number.
Im pretty sure they all do. underscore, period, colon, etc dont work either, but command works. I have yet to flash the firmware yet. I will redo the connector firmly again and flashing the firmware when I get home tonight. Im on OSX, and my invoice was #0880. Thanks for the help!
I'd suspect something hardware fault on cables, connector or Alt controller if those don't work. Also checking those problematic keys work with original controller would be helpful.
Thanks for your patience.
Ok so this is really weird. When I got home, i decided to try the keyboard one last time on a different (OSX) laptop. When I plugged it in, it worked perfectly fine, no problems at all. When I plug it back into the other laptop, the problems occur again. I also found, that if I am typing alphas in rapid succession, and then press space/enter at the end, it will register the space/enter.....then repeat the space/enter infinitely. I am stumped.
Oh, that weird behiviour indicates power supply problem, Topre capacitive sense chip tends to go bad with low voltage. Some of USB cables and USB hub causes this problem in some situations. If you are using external USB hub plug directly into port of laptop. Also wall wart power supply or changing USB cables may fix problem.
But still making sure internal connectors fit into each other is good idea. Bad connection there also can cause wierd problem like that.
I using the same usb cable, and for both I am plugging directly into the laptops. I tried making sure the internal connecters fit each other, I took them out and put them back in making sure they were in all the way. Tried typing on both again, still same thing happening.
Hey recently got my controller and installed it, but for some reason the default firmware on the controller works with normal alpha and numbers, but doesnt work for del, enter, backspace, arrow keys, etc. Did I do something wrong during installation? Should I try flashing on another firmware? Mine is a JP version. Sorry for the trouble, thanks for the help!
Hmm, I don't think of cause of that. Do all of alpah and number keys work correctly? Didn't you flash firmware yourself yet? I'd suggest mating connector firmly again and flash firmware downloaded from Keymap Editor.
Let me know which OS you are on and invoice number.
Im pretty sure they all do. underscore, period, colon, etc dont work either, but command works. I have yet to flash the firmware yet. I will redo the connector firmly again and flashing the firmware when I get home tonight. Im on OSX, and my invoice was #0880. Thanks for the help!
I'd suspect something hardware fault on cables, connector or Alt controller if those don't work. Also checking those problematic keys work with original controller would be helpful.
Thanks for your patience.
Ok so this is really weird. When I got home, i decided to try the keyboard one last time on a different (OSX) laptop. When I plugged it in, it worked perfectly fine, no problems at all. When I plug it back into the other laptop, the problems occur again. I also found, that if I am typing alphas in rapid succession, and then press space/enter at the end, it will register the space/enter.....then repeat the space/enter infinitely. I am stumped.
Oh, that weird behiviour indicates power supply problem, Topre capacitive sense chip tends to go bad with low voltage. Some of USB cables and USB hub causes this problem in some situations. If you are using external USB hub plug directly into port of laptop. Also wall wart power supply or changing USB cables may fix problem.
But still making sure internal connectors fit into each other is good idea. Bad connection there also can cause wierd problem like that.
I using the same usb cable, and for both I am plugging directly into the laptops. I tried making sure the internal connecters fit each other, I took them out and put them back in making sure they were in all the way. Tried typing on both again, still same thing happening.
Hmm, Alt controller works on one laptop but not on the other, right? If you sitll have HHKB original USB cable try it.
And can you check if original controller works well on both laptops with the cable? If so it seems that Alt Controller has something wrong. I'll send replacement or refund.
Hey recently got my controller and installed it, but for some reason the default firmware on the controller works with normal alpha and numbers, but doesnt work for del, enter, backspace, arrow keys, etc. Did I do something wrong during installation? Should I try flashing on another firmware? Mine is a JP version. Sorry for the trouble, thanks for the help!
Hmm, I don't think of cause of that. Do all of alpah and number keys work correctly? Didn't you flash firmware yourself yet? I'd suggest mating connector firmly again and flash firmware downloaded from Keymap Editor.
Let me know which OS you are on and invoice number.
Im pretty sure they all do. underscore, period, colon, etc dont work either, but command works. I have yet to flash the firmware yet. I will redo the connector firmly again and flashing the firmware when I get home tonight. Im on OSX, and my invoice was #0880. Thanks for the help!
I'd suspect something hardware fault on cables, connector or Alt controller if those don't work. Also checking those problematic keys work with original controller would be helpful.
Thanks for your patience.
Ok so this is really weird. When I got home, i decided to try the keyboard one last time on a different (OSX) laptop. When I plugged it in, it worked perfectly fine, no problems at all. When I plug it back into the other laptop, the problems occur again. I also found, that if I am typing alphas in rapid succession, and then press space/enter at the end, it will register the space/enter.....then repeat the space/enter infinitely. I am stumped.
Oh, that weird behiviour indicates power supply problem, Topre capacitive sense chip tends to go bad with low voltage. Some of USB cables and USB hub causes this problem in some situations. If you are using external USB hub plug directly into port of laptop. Also wall wart power supply or changing USB cables may fix problem.
But still making sure internal connectors fit into each other is good idea. Bad connection there also can cause wierd problem like that.
I using the same usb cable, and for both I am plugging directly into the laptops. I tried making sure the internal connecters fit each other, I took them out and put them back in making sure they were in all the way. Tried typing on both again, still same thing happening.
Hmm, Alt controller works on one laptop but not on the other, right? If you sitll have HHKB original USB cable try it.
And can you check if original controller works well on both laptops with the cable? If so it seems that Alt Controller has something wrong. I'll send replacement or refund.
I dont have the original cable, but ive just checked across 3 different cables, but the results are the same. I then put back in the original controller, and it works perfectly fine on both laptops. I'd prefer a replacement if possible. Thanks again for the help, and sorry for the trouble!
Hi all thanks 4 the great work ! i discover this post a few days ago and purchased 1 hhkb (http://www.smartimports.net/products/Happy-Hacking-Keyboard-Professional2-.html ) and a bt mod ( https://1upkeyboards.com/products/controllers.html )
I want to test this battery availiable on European Markets :
http://es.rs-online.com/web/p/products/1251266/?tpr=1
And here is the specs:
http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/154f/0900766b8154f73b.pdf
But i dont know if is the correct one :S the other models are not availiables in my country.
Need help and want to help too ;) , sorry for my poor english.
I see there is a list of tested ones on the 1st Hasu's Post .
If i can finally test ill send the feedback . For now , still waiting the arrival of the orders (^^)
Thanks for your help!!
You need to use 3.7V Lithium Ion Polymer battery with JST PH 2pin connector and battery protection circuit. Battery space inside HHKB is around 54mm x 50mm and its height is 7mm(or 8mm).
Hi thansk for your response! and 4 the info! i searching other compatible in size and with the right connector and try it when i have the keyboard on my hands .
I find this model, what do you think ? ty!
https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B072B6ZVN9/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3EHA2IH6ZF2LL&psc=1
Got mine installed the other night but still waiting on my battery to come. I opted to grab the 2300mAh from microcenter per pyro2927's previous post.
More details pics to come but here the idea:
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8275/28732996355_fbd68b73c2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KM37LT)
Would it be difficult to have a key print out the percentage left in the battery?on text editor or something? it is not so difficult. i can help you.
Is there any chance there will be a hasu controller made for the native HHKB Bluetooth?no.
Is there any chance there will be a hasu controller made for the native HHKB Bluetooth?no.
Would it be difficult to have a key print out the percentage left in the battery?on text editor or something? it is not so difficult. i can help you.
// 1
register_code(KC_1);
unregister_code(KC_1);
// % (Shift + 5)
regsiter_code(KC_LSHIFT);
register_code(KC_5);
unregister_code(KC_5);
unregsiter_code(KC_LSHIFT);
Hi, how can I change the blue tooth name of the HHKB BT control board?
Hi, how can I change the blue tooth name of the HHKB BT control board?
The name 'TmkBT-XXXX' is stored actually in Bluetooth module RN42 and you can change 'TmkBT' part while '-XXXX' part is not configurable and it is last 4digits of bluetooth address.
You can change the name by editing this line then build and upload firmware.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/keyboard/hhkb/rn42/rn42_task.c#L160
And you have to initialize RN42 module with LShift+RShift+ScrollLock(Fn+O). The intialization is nedeed just once after firmware is updated.
Quote from MANUAL of Bluetooth Controller in the first post.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71517.0
"""
RN42 initialize
You can initialize module when you are in trouble. But you should tarke care to prevent module from being cofigured incompletely or wrongly. Take the following steps.
0. Turn BT swich off and unplug USB cable.
1. open hid_listen. You can do without it but I recommend.
2. Plug USB cable and wait for keyboard to startup.
3. Press key combo LShift+RShift+ScrollLock(Fn+O).
4. Turn BT switch on. You will see output below on hid_listen.
5. Do not touch keyobard until the command completes or for twenty seconds.
Now module is configured with default setting and in pairing mode. You may need extra power cycle for pairing, try BT switch off and on.
"""
Hey guys, I've recently built a new pc and also made the switch from Windows 7 to Windows 10. The controller worked flawlessly while I had W7. At first I thought that the controller wouldn't work with W10 at all, but after tons of trial and error, I can seem to get it to work randomly for what seems like 1/25 attempts. Is anyone else here using the controller with Windows 10?
Update: I just paired everything to my buddies pc with w7 and everything works flawlessly. Bummer that I can't use it with my pc reliably but at least I can still take it everywhere with me! :cool:
Hey guys, I've recently built a new pc and also made the switch from Windows 7 to Windows 10. The controller worked flawlessly while I had W7. At first I thought that the controller wouldn't work with W10 at all, but after tons of trial and error, I can seem to get it to work randomly for what seems like 1/25 attempts. Is anyone else here using the controller with Windows 10?
Update: I just paired everything to my buddies pc with w7 and everything works flawlessly. Bummer that I can't use it with my pc reliably but at least I can still take it everywhere with me! :cool:
My top laptop with Windows10 works with BT controller, though, mine is very old Thinkpad X201s with Classic Bluetooth 2.1. Any other users have experience with Windows10?
I don't think BT controller has necessarily problem with Windows10. But there can be problem or incompatibility with some hardwares and drivers.
What is your hardware? laptop?
What is exactly your problem with your WIndows 10?
Pairing process(Add device) doesn't work? or Controller fails to auto-connect to host? or it works weirdly when connected?
Hey guys, I've recently built a new pc and also made the switch from Windows 7 to Windows 10. The controller worked flawlessly while I had W7. At first I thought that the controller wouldn't work with W10 at all, but after tons of trial and error, I can seem to get it to work randomly for what seems like 1/25 attempts. Is anyone else here using the controller with Windows 10?
Update: I just paired everything to my buddies pc with w7 and everything works flawlessly. Bummer that I can't use it with my pc reliably but at least I can still take it everywhere with me! :cool:
My top laptop with Windows10 works with BT controller, though, mine is very old Thinkpad X201s with Classic Bluetooth 2.1. Any other users have experience with Windows10?
I don't think BT controller has necessarily problem with Windows10. But there can be problem or incompatibility with some hardwares and drivers.
What is your hardware? laptop?
What is exactly your problem with your WIndows 10?
Pairing process(Add device) doesn't work? or Controller fails to auto-connect to host? or it works weirdly when connected?
I'm running w10 on a pc. It adds the device fine but just gets stuck on searching (red blink) forever. It will work randomly but for the most part, it just stays on searching.
You can initialize module when you are in trouble. But you should tarke care to prevent module from being cofigured incompletely or wrongly. Take the following steps.
0. Turn BT swich off and unplug USB cable.
1. open hid_listen. You can do without it but I recommend.
2. Plug USB cable and wait for keyboard to startup.
3. Press key combo LShift+RShift+ScrollLock(Fn+O).
4. Turn BT switch on. You will see output below on hid_listen.
5. Do not touch keyobard until the command completes or for twenty seconds.
Now module is configured with default setting and in pairing mode. You may need extra power cycle for pairing, try BT switch off and on.
How hard would it be to make a BT hhkb 1? Don´t really wanna siwtch my kb just for the bluetooth and would be a fun project if it´s possible :D
menuhin,
Assuming you are talking about original controllers.
Yes, Pro1 and JP worked with iPad while Pro2 didn't at some point. I can remember some people said so a few years ago. I don't know about recent iPad/iOS.
menuhin,
Assuming you are talking about original controllers.
Yes, Pro1 and JP worked with iPad while Pro2 didn't at some point. I can remember some people said so a few years ago. I don't know about recent iPad/iOS.
Hi Hasu,
I am asking also if the Hasu Controller for HHKB Pro1 to replace its original controller will be running at a Watt that allow its to just plug in an iPad / iPad mini and work. :)
I have one of these 90 degree USB adapters on my Hasu HHKB controller in hopes of preserving the longevity of the port—I know some say there’s nothing to worry about but why take chances when you depend on the control offered by this great device.Using that adapter wouldn't reduce the force that's being applied to connector, it'll just move where that force is being applied. In this case it might increase the force experienced by the connector since you're basically adding in a moment arm (think lever) and moving the force away from the center of the connector.
The 90 degree adapter fits more loosely than a standard cable so I wonder if it’s actually worse by introducing a little lateral force?
(Attachment Link)
Hi,
Got my BT controller a few days ago. Being able to remap my keys feels great.
Got a tiny problem but I'm not sure what could be the cause: The bluetooth sometimes randomly disconnects, and then re-connects after ~30 seconds. There is no pattern as to when it disconnects. But seems when it disconnects, I'm always typing something.
Can this be an hardware issue?
Here is my setup:
T440s
Xubuntu 1604
HHKB pro2
BT Controller
$ ps auxww|grep blue
noname 12941 0.0 0.0 150304 0 ? S Oct28 0:00 /usr/lib/bluetooth/obexd
root 13121 0.0 0.0 32960 2572 ? Ss Oct28 0:02 /usr/lib/bluetooth/bluetoothd
noname 14842 0.0 0.6 710144 24800 ? Sl Oct28 0:40 /usr/bin/python3 /usr/bin/blueman-applet
does the red led keep flashing?
Which os are you using on the main pc?
1) Try to turn off the laptop and phone, this keeps the devices from connecting to keyboard.
2) Press both shift and p to remove pairing info from bluetooth module
Currently default firmware for Bluetooth controller doesn't support NKRO. You have to build firmware yourself.
Add a line below to Makefile.unimap.rn42 and run 'make -f Makefile.unimap.rn42'. Note that NKRO works only on USB.
---
NKRO_ENABLE = yes
---
Okay so I've managed to flash the firmware with Ubuntu on Oracle VM Virtual Box. But how do I exactly make my own layout for the keyboard? Like set my own custom layers?
So I am playing with the idea of starting to contribute to the source code and implementing a new more power efficient bluetooth le 4.0 module: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/nRF52832-2-4GHz-Wireless-rf-Module-CDSENET-E73-2G4M04S-SPI-SMD-rf-Receiver-transmitter-Bluetooth-Module/32819293925.html.
Is there any interest in this? I am not sure how much longer the battery lfie would be since the numbers aren't set in stone for that chip. I have not yet before worked with bluetooth le so I might be completely wrong but I think it might be worthwhile. Do you have any idea of this Hasu?
Okay so I've managed to flash the firmware with Ubuntu on Oracle VM Virtual Box. But how do I exactly make my own layout for the keyboard? Like set my own custom layers?
There are two options for you.
1) use keymap edior with you
In 'Base Firmware File:' section select your own build firmware hex file 'hhkb_rn42.hex' with file chooser.
And just edit keymap and download as usual, you will get your own firmware with keymap you edited.
2) edit keymap in source code:
Copy unimap_hhkb.c or unimap_hasu.c to unimap_tragedyfoundus.c and edit it.
And run 'make -f Makefile.unimap.rn42 KEYMAP=tragedyfoundus' to compile it.
And what is your main PC's motherboard or bluetooth adapter? does it support Bluetooth 2.1 or 3?
To use this bluetooth controller you need those vesions support.
cd tmk_keybaord/keyboard/hhkb
cp unimap_hhkb.c unimap_tragedyfoundus.c
vim unimap_tragedyfoundus.c
So I am playing with the idea of starting to contribute to the source code and implementing a new more power efficient bluetooth le 4.0 module: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/nRF52832-2-4GHz-Wireless-rf-Module-CDSENET-E73-2G4M04S-SPI-SMD-rf-Receiver-transmitter-Bluetooth-Module/32819293925.html.
Is there any interest in this? I am not sure how much longer the battery lfie would be since the numbers aren't set in stone for that chip. I have not yet before worked with bluetooth le so I might be completely wrong but I think it might be worthwhile. Do you have any idea of this Hasu?
Yes, BLE and nRF chip are way to go for now. But I would start to use it with other project, such as usual mechaniral switch keyboard. It makes prototyping easy. HHKB requires 5V power source and I/O pins and power saving won't be easy job, you will need to design replacement pcb for existent keyboard switch unit to get copmlete control for power saving.
And assuming this is not just private project,
to obey radio regulation requirements I would have to be consevative a little when choosing products. They are wanted to have certifications of many countries as possible. For example this is one of cadidates. https://www.seeedstudio.com/MDBT40-256RV3-nRF51822-based-BLE-module-p-2503.html
I don't know the model number but the motherboard is an MSI X99 XPower Titanium. It says on the manufacturer's website that it supports Bluetooth 2.1, 3.0, and 4.0 so I'm not sure why my PC won't discover the keyboard.
I don't have unimap_tragedyfoundus.c, all I have are the files from the TMK Master folder I got from GitHub. So what should I type into the shell prompt since I don't have unimap_tragedyfoundus.c? I added a screenshot to show you exactly what files I have inside the HHKB folder
So I am playing with the idea of starting to contribute to the source code and implementing a new more power efficient bluetooth le 4.0 module: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/nRF52832-2-4GHz-Wireless-rf-Module-CDSENET-E73-2G4M04S-SPI-SMD-rf-Receiver-transmitter-Bluetooth-Module/32819293925.html.
Is there any interest in this? I am not sure how much longer the battery lfie would be since the numbers aren't set in stone for that chip. I have not yet before worked with bluetooth le so I might be completely wrong but I think it might be worthwhile. Do you have any idea of this Hasu?
Yes, BLE and nRF chip are way to go for now. But I would start to use it with other project, such as usual mechaniral switch keyboard. It makes prototyping easy. HHKB requires 5V power source and I/O pins and power saving won't be easy job, you will need to design replacement pcb for existent keyboard switch unit to get copmlete control for power saving.
And assuming this is not just private project,
to obey radio regulation requirements I would have to be consevative a little when choosing products. They are wanted to have certifications of many countries as possible. For example this is one of cadidates. https://www.seeedstudio.com/MDBT40-256RV3-nRF51822-based-BLE-module-p-2503.html
I see so the power savings won't be substantial by just using a lower power bluetooth module? How about modding the BT version of the HHKB itself. I looked online but I can't find pics of an opened one to check the connectors.
I don't know the model number but the motherboard is an MSI X99 XPower Titanium. It says on the manufacturer's website that it supports Bluetooth 2.1, 3.0, and 4.0 so I'm not sure why my PC won't discover the keyboard.
I don't have unimap_tragedyfoundus.c, all I have are the files from the TMK Master folder I got from GitHub. So what should I type into the shell prompt since I don't have unimap_tragedyfoundus.c? I added a screenshot to show you exactly what files I have inside the HHKB folder
Yeah, your pc's bluetooth should work with the controller. do you get antena connected?
you have to create the file yourself with cp command quoted in my post. The method 2) requires very primary knowledge of unix/linux and C programming knowledge and it seems you are not ready for this. You'll have to walk through some of Linux and C primer lessons, which you can find easily online.
But I'd recommend method 1) because you already have your own built firmware with NKRO enabled.
----- RN-42 info -----
protocol: LUFA
force_usb: 0
rn42: OFF
rn42_autoconnecting(): 1
config_mode: 0
USB State: Configured
battery: FULL
RemoteWakeupEnabled: 1
VBUS: 1
uptime: 00 00:11:13
----- RN-42 info -----
protocol: RN-42
force_usb: 0
rn42: ON
rn42_autoconnecting(): 1
config_mode: 0
USB State: Configured
battery: FULL
RemoteWakeupEnabled: 1
VBUS: 1
uptime: 00 00:12:07
Entering config mode ...
CMD
Ver 6.15 04/26/2013
(c) Roving Networks
ECHO ON
SR,Z
AOK
R,1
Reboot!
Exiting config mode ...
- Version -
DESC: t.m.k. keyboard firmware for HHKB mod
VID: 0xFEED(t.m.k.) PID: 0x4242(HHKB mod) VER: 0x0104
BUILD: 4190571-dirty (07:55:51 Oct 28 2017)
OPTIONS: LUFA MOUSEKEY EXTRAKEY CONSOLE COMMAND KEYMAP_SECTION 4096
GCC: 4.9.2 AVR-LIBC: 1.8.0svn AVR_ARCH: avr5
I don't know the model number but the motherboard is an MSI X99 XPower Titanium. It says on the manufacturer's website that it supports Bluetooth 2.1, 3.0, and 4.0 so I'm not sure why my PC won't discover the keyboard.
I don't have unimap_tragedyfoundus.c, all I have are the files from the TMK Master folder I got from GitHub. So what should I type into the shell prompt since I don't have unimap_tragedyfoundus.c? I added a screenshot to show you exactly what files I have inside the HHKB folder
Yeah, your pc's bluetooth should work with the controller. do you get antena connected?
you have to create the file yourself with cp command quoted in my post. The method 2) requires very primary knowledge of unix/linux and C programming knowledge and it seems you are not ready for this. You'll have to walk through some of Linux and C primer lessons, which you can find easily online.
But I'd recommend method 1) because you already have your own built firmware with NKRO enabled.
I don't have an antenna for my bluetooth, it's weird that it doesn't work. Went as far as to reinstall windows to see if that would fix it but it didn't. I tried method one and for some reason I lose NKRO. It's fine, sucks I can't have NKRO but at least I can program it.
Super excited to have received my replacement (BT) controller for my HHKB Pro 2 today! Buuuut, Bluetooth doesn't seem to work correctly. I installed the device fine, USB mode works OK (I'm typing this post on it!), and it's fully charged. Flipping the switch for Bluetooth mode results in a flashing red LED, but it's discovered as a RNBT-786D and I can't seem to get either macOS or Windows 10 to successfully pair. Even when the operating system says it's paired, the light continues to flash. It's not detected as a keyboard and I can't type.
RN42 initialize
You can initialize module when you are in trouble. But you should tarke care to prevent module from being cofigured incompletely or wrongly. Take the following steps.
0. Turn BT swich off and unplug USB cable.
1. open hid_listen. You can do without it but I recommend.
2. Plug USB cable and wait for keyboard to startup.
3. Press key combo LShift+RShift+ScrollLock(Fn+O).
4. Turn BT switch on. You will see output below on hid_listen.
5. Do not touch keyobard until the command completes or for twenty seconds.
Now module is configured with default setting and in pairing mode. You may need extra power cycle for pairing, try BT switch off and on.
Output on hid_listen from initialize command.QuoteEntering config mode ...
CMD
Ver 6.15 04/26/2013
(c) Roving Networks
ECHO ON
SF,1
AOK
S-,TmkBT
AOK
SS,Keyboard/Mouse
AOK
SM,4
AOK
SW,8000
AOK
S~,6
AOK
SH,003C
AOK
SY,FFF4
AOK
R,1
Reboot!
Exiting config mode ...
I don't know the model number but the motherboard is an MSI X99 XPower Titanium. It says on the manufacturer's website that it supports Bluetooth 2.1, 3.0, and 4.0 so I'm not sure why my PC won't discover the keyboard.
I don't have unimap_tragedyfoundus.c, all I have are the files from the TMK Master folder I got from GitHub. So what should I type into the shell prompt since I don't have unimap_tragedyfoundus.c? I added a screenshot to show you exactly what files I have inside the HHKB folder
Yeah, your pc's bluetooth should work with the controller. do you get antena connected?
you have to create the file yourself with cp command quoted in my post. The method 2) requires very primary knowledge of unix/linux and C programming knowledge and it seems you are not ready for this. You'll have to walk through some of Linux and C primer lessons, which you can find easily online.
But I'd recommend method 1) because you already have your own built firmware with NKRO enabled.
I don't have an antenna for my bluetooth, it's weird that it doesn't work. Went as far as to reinstall windows to see if that would fix it but it didn't. I tried method one and for some reason I lose NKRO. It's fine, sucks I can't have NKRO but at least I can program it.
According its manual you should get two antennas with motherboard, install them for wifi and bluetooth refering to page 27. I don't know if bluetooth works without the antenna but you better install it.
Are other bluetooth devices working without the antenna?
You can get manual for X99A XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM(this is your board right?), if you don't have.
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/X99A-XPOWER-GAMING-TITANIUM.html#down-manual
Super excited to have received my replacement (BT) controller for my HHKB Pro 2 today! Buuuut, Bluetooth doesn't seem to work correctly. I installed the device fine, USB mode works OK (I'm typing this post on it!), and it's fully charged. Flipping the switch for Bluetooth mode results in a flashing red LED, but it's discovered as a RNBT-786D and I can't seem to get either macOS or Windows 10 to successfully pair. Even when the operating system says it's paired, the light continues to flash. It's not detected as a keyboard and I can't type.
Oh, sorry for this.
It seems the controler was shipped before bluetooth module was initialized properly, unless the module goes bad for some reason.
Could you try initialize process? After this you will find "TmkBT-786D" instead of "RNBT-786D" and it should work as expected.
Super excited to have received my replacement (BT) controller for my HHKB Pro 2 today! Buuuut, Bluetooth doesn't seem to work correctly. I installed the device fine, USB mode works OK (I'm typing this post on it!), and it's fully charged. Flipping the switch for Bluetooth mode results in a flashing red LED, but it's discovered as a RNBT-786D and I can't seem to get either macOS or Windows 10 to successfully pair. Even when the operating system says it's paired, the light continues to flash. It's not detected as a keyboard and I can't type.
Oh, sorry for this.
It seems the controler was shipped before bluetooth module was initialized properly, unless the module goes bad for some reason.
Could you try initialize process? After this you will find "TmkBT-786D" instead of "RNBT-786D" and it should work as expected.
Haha, while waiting for a reply I poked around the relevant bits of code and stumbled across this: https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/keyboard/hhkb/rn42/RN42.txt (https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/keyboard/hhkb/rn42/RN42.txt) which nailed the problem and the fix which you described! So yes, having done that it's now working perfectly - I'm still typing on my modified keyboard, only this time it's free of cables and via the wonder of Bluetooth!
Thanks again :D ❤️
I assumed the antennas were just for the wifi. I just hooked them up and my keyboard still wasn't detected over bluetooth. And yes, all other devices work without the antennas. I can't wrap my head around why it doesn't work. All my drivers are up to date and everything too.
I don't know the model number but the motherboard is an MSI X99 XPower Titanium. It says on the manufacturer's website that it supports Bluetooth 2.1, 3.0, and 4.0 so I'm not sure why my PC won't discover the keyboard.
I don't have unimap_tragedyfoundus.c, all I have are the files from the TMK Master folder I got from GitHub. So what should I type into the shell prompt since I don't have unimap_tragedyfoundus.c? I added a screenshot to show you exactly what files I have inside the HHKB folder
Yeah, your pc's bluetooth should work with the controller. do you get antena connected?
you have to create the file yourself with cp command quoted in my post. The method 2) requires very primary knowledge of unix/linux and C programming knowledge and it seems you are not ready for this. You'll have to walk through some of Linux and C primer lessons, which you can find easily online.
But I'd recommend method 1) because you already have your own built firmware with NKRO enabled.
I don't have an antenna for my bluetooth, it's weird that it doesn't work. Went as far as to reinstall windows to see if that would fix it but it didn't. I tried method one and for some reason I lose NKRO. It's fine, sucks I can't have NKRO but at least I can program it.
According its manual you should get two antennas with motherboard, install them for wifi and bluetooth refering to page 27. I don't know if bluetooth works without the antenna but you better install it.
Are other bluetooth devices working without the antenna?
You can get manual for X99A XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM(this is your board right?), if you don't have.
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/X99A-XPOWER-GAMING-TITANIUM.html#down-manual
I assumed the antennas were just for the wifi. I just hooked them up and my keyboard still wasn't detected over bluetooth. And yes, all other devices work without the antennas. I can't wrap my head around why it doesn't work. All my drivers are up to date and everything too.
I see, your pc hardware seems to be ok.
I'm not sure but initializing bluetooth module may work.
1) Download default firmware from keymap editor and flash it, first.
http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/unimap/?hhkb_rn42
2) Initialize bluetooth module on controller as this post describe.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71517.msg2530988#msg2530988
you can downlade 'hid_listen' here: https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/hid_listen.html
After this could you check if it works with your desktop and laptop.
I don't know the model number but the motherboard is an MSI X99 XPower Titanium. It says on the manufacturer's website that it supports Bluetooth 2.1, 3.0, and 4.0 so I'm not sure why my PC won't discover the keyboard.
I don't have unimap_tragedyfoundus.c, all I have are the files from the TMK Master folder I got from GitHub. So what should I type into the shell prompt since I don't have unimap_tragedyfoundus.c? I added a screenshot to show you exactly what files I have inside the HHKB folder
Yeah, your pc's bluetooth should work with the controller. do you get antena connected?
you have to create the file yourself with cp command quoted in my post. The method 2) requires very primary knowledge of unix/linux and C programming knowledge and it seems you are not ready for this. You'll have to walk through some of Linux and C primer lessons, which you can find easily online.
But I'd recommend method 1) because you already have your own built firmware with NKRO enabled.
I don't have an antenna for my bluetooth, it's weird that it doesn't work. Went as far as to reinstall windows to see if that would fix it but it didn't. I tried method one and for some reason I lose NKRO. It's fine, sucks I can't have NKRO but at least I can program it.
According its manual you should get two antennas with motherboard, install them for wifi and bluetooth refering to page 27. I don't know if bluetooth works without the antenna but you better install it.
Are other bluetooth devices working without the antenna?
You can get manual for X99A XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM(this is your board right?), if you don't have.
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/X99A-XPOWER-GAMING-TITANIUM.html#down-manual
I assumed the antennas were just for the wifi. I just hooked them up and my keyboard still wasn't detected over bluetooth. And yes, all other devices work without the antennas. I can't wrap my head around why it doesn't work. All my drivers are up to date and everything too.
If your motherboard is 'X99A XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM' it should have two antenna connectors on back panel. Isn't this yours?
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/X99A-XPOWER-GAMING-TITANIUM.html
https://asset.msi.com/global/picture/image/feature/mb/RWD_Img/X99/Titanium/Connectivity_Xpower.png
The controller uses low Transmit power for bluetooth to save power, so i worry about the antenna.
what if you place keyboard very near the motherboard?
And try turn off wifi, if you are using 2.4GHz wifi it may interfere with bluetooth.
So I have the bluetooth version of the controller. Board shows 2017/06 Rev. N. At first everything was working great after getting my keymap done and the controller flashed. Now however when I use the keyboard USB it misses key presses and/or rapidly presses the key. So say I'm backspacing a number of characters, sometime it will just miss a press and other times it will hang up for a second then do say maybe 20 backspaces almost instantly. The strange part is this only happens in USB mode when I take the board to work every day and use it bluetooth it works perfectly. Shows the same issues on that work machine though in USB mode (different cable as well) so it doesn't look like it is just a problem with my home machine. I've tried flashing the board again several times but nothing seems to have worked. Any thoughts on what might be happening here/options to fix it?
Thanks!
So I have the bluetooth version of the controller. Board shows 2017/06 Rev. N. At first everything was working great after getting my keymap done and the controller flashed. Now however when I use the keyboard USB it misses key presses and/or rapidly presses the key. So say I'm backspacing a number of characters, sometime it will just miss a press and other times it will hang up for a second then do say maybe 20 backspaces almost instantly. The strange part is this only happens in USB mode when I take the board to work every day and use it bluetooth it works perfectly. Shows the same issues on that work machine though in USB mode (different cable as well) so it doesn't look like it is just a problem with my home machine. I've tried flashing the board again several times but nothing seems to have worked. Any thoughts on what might be happening here/options to fix it?
Thanks!
Hi,
I don't have idea why the problem appear only on USB, so far. The porblem happens on specific keys or random keys?
FIrst, to clear problem and narrow uncertainties, download default firmware from keymap editor without editing keymap and flash it before test.
And I would make sure connectors between controller pcb and keyswitch board mate each other firmly again.
Did you do some mod on keyswiches, such as lubrication, silencing or slider swap? If so you have to take apart and check conical ring placement.
Does anyone know how to access the backslash key in UK layout?
BSLS gives me # and I cannot find backslash on any other key :/
Thanks! :)
EDIT: Found it! NUBS Non-US BackSlash :)
menuhin,
Assuming you are talking about original controllers.
Yes, Pro1 and JP worked with iPad while Pro2 didn't at some point. I can remember some people said so a few years ago. I don't know about recent iPad/iOS.
Hi Hasu,
I am asking also if the Hasu Controller for HHKB Pro1 to replace its original controller will be running at a Watt that allow its to just plug in an iPad / iPad mini and work. :)
Also I can remember some users said USB Pro1/Pro2/JP Alt controller worked with iPad. I don't know about Bluetooth Alt controller.
Hi, I would like to buy a hasu bluetooth controller for my HHKB Pro2. O really don't know how this works though. I'm new in the forum.
Thank you so much for your quick response. My firmware is tmk with a custom keymap. device info:
----- Version -----
DESC: t.m.k. keyboard firmware for HHKB mod
VID: 0xFEED(t.m.k.) PID: 0xCAFE(HHKB mod) VER: 0x0104
BUILD: 10a6b2c-dirty (18:37:16 Nov 27 2015)
OPTIONS: LUFA BOOTMAGIC MOUSEKEY EXTRAKEY CONSOLE COMMAND NKRO 4096
GCC: 4.8.1 AVR-LIBC: 1.8.0svn AVR_ARCH: avr5
question about the ACTION_LAYER_TAP_KEY function. Is it possible to shorten the time you need to press the button down? It is a bit too slow for me.
Updated firmware for Bluetooth controller.
With this new firmware it does NKRO in USB mode by default now, still 6KRO in Bluetooth.
No other improvents at all. If you have no problem with 6KRO you don't have to update. This update is not for USB controller.
The firmware is available from Keymap Editor or github repo.
http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/hhkb
Check this commit for detail.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/commit/f2761c9565e76706853a4a0b148c8e93369e49e5
Thanks
Nice work.
Would you consider the controller for HHKB BT?
Because I love BT’s case design but it does not support USB connection to type and keymapping.
Thanks
I'm not sure if this is the correct place to post this, but is anyone interested in swapping their HHKB Pro 2 bottom casing (with openings for the USB) for one without (from HHKB JP)? I bought a BT controller and am looking for the clean solution to mount it on my JP case (no drilling).
On another note, great work hasu! Any new projects you're working on (HHKB-related or not)?
(Thank you very much, Hasu-san. Hand waving from Brisbane, Australia! Received the module and worked perfectly. I have just ordered a LiPo on eBay but it scheduled the arrival in 2.5 months which is typical for those China sellers who always sent by ships... :()
Hi, it is not difficult to drill 3 holes and very clean. You just need to measure the drill spots precisely, and be patient drilling from the smaller tips to the ideal tip size. I did about 5-6 times for avoiding the plastic crack. Done within 10 mins:
(https://preview.ibb.co/jmE6Cd/WIN_20180603_01_51_37_Pro.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eXbKXd)I'm not sure if this is the correct place to post this, but is anyone interested in swapping their HHKB Pro 2 bottom casing (with openings for the USB) for one without (from HHKB JP)? I bought a BT controller and am looking for the clean solution to mount it on my JP case (no drilling).
On another note, great work hasu! Any new projects you're working on (HHKB-related or not)?
Hasu BT controller should work via BT connection to iPad, and BT is a big plus for either home use or on the road. But BT has its limitations and I'm not keen on always watching out for whether this or that device is going to run out of juice.
What is unfair is that HHKP Pro 1 and HHKP JP (with their unmodified original controllers) can connect to iPads through cable without any problem; it's just HHKB Pro 2's original controller.
Please do if you have the chance and I'm also looking forward to Hasu's answer (I'm not sure if he has access to an iPad model with thunderbolt socket)
If you want USB connection to iPad you better have USB controller. Bluetooth controller draws fair amount of current for battery charging and iPad will refuse it. Charging current of Bluetooth controller can be up to 500mA. Original Pro2 draws around 120mA for its hubs, for reference.
USB Alt controller(of all variants) draws around 20mA and it should work with iPad on USB connection.
Hasu BT controller should work via BT connection to iPad, and BT is a big plus for either home use or on the road. But BT has its limitations and I'm not keen on always watching out for whether this or that device is going to run out of juice.
What is unfair is that HHKP Pro 1 and HHKP JP (with their unmodified original controllers) can connect to iPads through cable without any problem; it's just HHKB Pro 2's original controller.
Please do if you have the chance and I'm also looking forward to Hasu's answer (I'm not sure if he has access to an iPad model with thunderbolt socket)
If you want USB connection to iPad you better have USB controller. Bluetooth controller draws fair amount of current for battery charging and iPad will refuse it. Charging current of Bluetooth controller can be up to 500mA. Original Pro2 draws around 120mA for its hubs, for reference.
USB Alt controller(of all variants) draws around 20mA and it should work with iPad on USB connection.
Does this mean that if the purpose is to connect the HHKB to an iPad using the camera adapter, then the USB controller is better than the BT controller?
Thanks for your reply hasu.
I can see that the response time of the HHKB is listed at ~16 ms. Will installing a new controller not affect this (positively or negatively)? Or is the delay due to the sensing circuit?
Hi everyone, I need some help. I just bought a BT controller and it seems to not register keypresses in bluetooth mode.
I connect to my PC just fine, solid red LED(right)
Keypress register when connected via USB
info that might help:
got my hex file from TMK Keymad Editor
flash my hex with qmk_toolbox
Thanks in advance!
Within approx. one hour I managed to flash QMK firmware with an advertised power draw of 50 mA, and the keyboard now works with and iPad, iPhone etc.
Nice work :) I may consider adding a battery later on, but for now I don't need it.
One small issue though; there's a high-pitched noise when the controller is connected to the computer via USB. Are you aware of this, hasu?
Notice that Bluetooth controller without battery consumes 50mA while USB controller consumes 40mA.
Wait, what? When I asked you about the power consumption you wrote the following to meNotice that Bluetooth controller without battery consumes 50mA while USB controller consumes 40mA.
Yes, it did confuse me a bit. Sorry, but just to make sure I understand you correctly then; I don't have a battery installed. I assume that means the power draw is approx. 50 mA, then?
Could you tell me where on the board to measure the power draw? +/- on the USB connection is suppose? There's a multimeter I can use in the office.
Thanks.
I'm sorry to bring this up again. This coil whine is bothering me a bit. I have sensitive ears, I'll admit that.
Would the USB controller (without wi-fi) also have this?
What about a Teensy?
For the BT controller, I'm reading that if I have 2 devices that I want to use with it, I would have to keep re-pairing them? I have an iPad Pro and a Macbook that I carry to class together. If I pair the MacBook, then I have to "get it out of range" before I pair the iPad? Then once I have both paired, can I switch between the two devices just by using the "Bluetooth" menu on the two devices and making it connect from there? Or would I HAVE to force re-pair using "p" command?
I ask because if force re-pairing is needed, then I will have to keep changing the keyboard settings to Colemak every time manually. I guess I'm also just not unstandanding what force re-pairing does exactly too.
Hi Hasu, This is my first time programming a custom layout on a keyboard and first experience with TMK. I managed to configure a custom layout with tmk-kbd.com (https://goo.gl/pSaQPT) but I want to change the TAPPING_TERM and also to program a few macros.
May I know what are the best way to achieve this? I tried to use the keymap output to get a .c file and then tried using this command:
make -f Makefile.jp KEYMAP=keymap.c clean
make -f Makefile.jp KEYMAP=keymap.c
But was greeted with this message:
make: *** No rule to make target 'obj_hhkb_jp/keymap.c.o', needed by 'hhkb_jp.elf'. Stop.
I am able to build properly if i just run: make -f Makefile.jp
May i know what am I missing? thank you.
Hi Hasu, This is my first time programming a custom layout on a keyboard and first experience with TMK. I managed to configure a custom layout with tmk-kbd.com (https://goo.gl/pSaQPT) but I want to change the TAPPING_TERM and also to program a few macros.
May I know what are the best way to achieve this? I tried to use the keymap output to get a .c file and then tried using this command:
make -f Makefile.jp KEYMAP=keymap.c clean
make -f Makefile.jp KEYMAP=keymap.c
But was greeted with this message:
make: *** No rule to make target 'obj_hhkb_jp/keymap.c.o', needed by 'hhkb_jp.elf'. Stop.
I am able to build properly if i just run: make -f Makefile.jp
May i know what am I missing? thank you.
When using Makefile.jp for JP model default keymap file is keymap_jp.c. You can copy your keymap file to keymap_jp.c and just run: 'make -f Makefile.jp', or name it to keymap_aspire5550.c and 'make -f Makefile.jp KEYMAP=aspire5550'.
Tuning TAPPING_TERM may work for you but if not you will have to refine code in tmk_core/common/action_tapping.c(this is very dirty and adhoc) or implement your own dual role key in keymap file.
TMK current implementation of dual role key is intended to be used as mainly key(tap) with occasional modifier(hold) due to my requirement, so that you can place the key in alphanumeric part and type it well without conscious effort, while you will have to develop special fingering habit when you use it as modifier.
I think you need opposite implementation of this but TMK doesn't has it yet unfortunately.
Hi I've just received Alt Controller BT for Pro 2, replaced the original PCB and installed a battery.
It works fine when plugging into USB port of Mac Pro, MacBook Pro and SurfaceBook, respectively.
After several hours, LED on right side changed from orange to green.
So I assume the battery is full charged, then turned the USB/BT switch to BT mode.
LED on left side keep blinking once in a second.
Here comes a trouble.
My Macs (Mojave DP9) Bluetooth Preferences never detect HHKB, while Surface shows as TmkBT-C611.
How can I trouble shoot to use on Mac/BT? Is this related to Vender ID/Product ID issue?
The result of hid_listen.mac (L+R Shift + V, B) as follows:
- Version -
DESC: t.m.k. keyboard firmware for HHKB mod
VID: 0xFEED(t.m.k.) PID: 0x4242(HHKB mod) VER: 0x0104
BUILD: 1b76ea4 (18:02:40 Mar 16 2018)
OPTIONS: LUFA MOUSEKEY EXTRAKEY CONSOLE COMMAND NKRO KEYMAP_SECTION 4096
GCC: 4.9.2 AVR-LIBC: 1.8.0svn AVR_ARCH: avr5
BAT: 4135mV 00:00:23
Those version info and VID/PID look ok.
Did you try pairing mode with pressing 'both Shifts + P'?
Hmm, isn't error message in any log or something?
Unless Mojave changed something on Bluetooth forever, methods below like SMC reset may help?
https://www.lifewire.com/fix-os-x-bluetooth-wireless-problems-2259967
http://osxdaily.com/2014/02/17/fix-bluetooth-not-available-error-mac/
Is any other Mac user with Mojave around here?
Hi, I have a suggestion for the TMK programmer.
Would it be possible to have the option of reprogramming the 2 and 3 keys to the iso uk symbols?
I'm not too bothered not having the " on the 2 but I can't really live without the £ symbol.
Hi, I have a suggestion for the TMK programmer.
Would it be possible to have the option of reprogramming the 2 and 3 keys to the iso uk symbols?
I'm not too bothered not having the " on the 2 but I can't really live without the £ symbol.
I'm not sure whether you tried this controller in fact, or are you asking before buying?
I think if you are using UK layout on your OS you don't have any problem, you will get pond singn with shift+3 regardless of what your keyboard legend says. Which symbol you get on OS depends totally on you keyboard configuration of your OS.
Assuming your model is JP,
Hello! I have some trouble flashing right now? Whenever I try to flash the bluetooth firmware through QMK, the USB defaults to just DFU mode without me even clicking the red button? The bluetooth will also connect, but no typing happens?
hmmm, how do you flash bluetooth firmware?
You can use dfu-programmer or Atmel FLIP to program microcontroller on the board. To get controller into bootloader(program) mode you can push red button on back or press key combo "LShift+RShift+Fn+P(Pause)" with default keymap. Microcontroller of board is Atmel ATMega32u4.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/wiki#flash-firmware
And you just go ahead and flash the bluetooth? The same way you would the USB? Cause whenever I flash the Bluetooth, the USB firmware disappears, forcing the keyboard into DFU mode and the Bluetooth connects to my computer, but doesn't output any characters?
I have one question. I bought a HHKB Pro2 Bluetooth controller. The bluetooth connection works fine for me. But when I turn off bluetooth switch and connect a USB cable, the keyboard doesn't work. The light indicates that the battery is charging, but I can't type. Does anybody have similar situation? I tried both Windows and macOS. Both of them don't recognize USB connection but only bluetooth connection. In one sentence, the USB mode of the bluetooth controller doesn't work for me.
I have one question. I bought a HHKB Pro2 Bluetooth controller. The bluetooth connection works fine for me. But when I turn off bluetooth switch and connect a USB cable, the keyboard doesn't work. The light indicates that the battery is charging, but I can't type. Does anybody have similar situation? I tried both Windows and macOS. Both of them don't recognize USB connection but only bluetooth connection. In one sentence, the USB mode of the bluetooth controller doesn't work for me.
I can't come up with idea except for bad connection. Did you try other usb cables? Some of people but not a few suffer from their poor cables, someone had even two bad cables in a row.
If usb connection is proper you will see something changing in Windows Device Manager when you press red button on the controller.
And you should try flashing default firmware downloaded from Keymap Editor withtout editting if you flashed firmware before.
http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/unimap/?hhkb_rn42
Didn't TROUBLESHOOT section in first post help?
Your first issue sounds like exactly what it describes. I think you flashed firmware for USB controller for some reason.
As for Second one I have no clear idea but improper firmware may also causes perhaps.
Refer to 'Build firmware' in MANUAL section for build hex from source. Or download prebuild hex file from proper keymap editor for your controller as the TROUBLESHOOT explain.
make -f Makefile.rn42
$ ps auxwww | grep blue
root 6026 0.0 0.0 37092 3944 ? Ss Feb19 0:00 /usr/lib/bluetooth/bluetoothd
noname 15958 0.0 0.0 42340 3548 pts/7 S+ 15:44 0:00 bluetoothctl
noname 18387 0.0 0.3 551724 51288 ? Sl 16:13 0:00 /usr/bin/python3 /usr/bin/blueman-applet
noname 18393 0.0 0.0 84800 6868 ? Ss 16:13 0:00 /usr/lib/bluetooth/obexd
noname 19123 0.0 0.0 17532 1052 pts/8 S+ 16:26 0:00 grep blue
[bluetooth]# scan on[/tt]
Discovery started
[CHG] Controller 00:09:DD:40:40:7B Discovering: yes
[NEW] Device 00:06:66:F7:23:9F TmkBT-239F
[CHG] Device 00:06:66:F7:23:9F RSSI: -80
[bluetooth]# pair 00:06:66:F7:23:9F
Attempting to pair with 00:06:66:F7:23:9F
[CHG] Device 00:06:66:F7:23:9F Connected: yes
Request confirmation
[TmkB1m[agent] Confirm passkey 048541 (yes/no): yes
[CHG] Device 00:06:66:F7:23:9F Modalias: bluetooth:v00CDp0066d0100
[CHG] Device 00:06:66:F7:23:9F UUIDs: 00001124-0000-1000-8000-00805f9b34fb
[CHG] Device 00:06:66:F7:23:9F UUIDs: 00001200-0000-1000-8000-00805f9b34fb
[CHG] Device 00:06:66:F7:23:9F ServicesResolved: yes
[CHG] Device 00:06:66:F7:23:9F Paired: yes
Pairing successful
[CHG] Device 00:06:66:F7:23:9F ServicesResolved: no
[CHG] Device 00:06:66:F7:23:9F Connected: no
[CHG] Device 00:06:66:F7:23:9F RSSI: -66
[bluetooth]# connect 00:06:66:F7:23:9F
Attempting to connect to 00:06:66:F7:23:9F
[CHG] Device 00:06:66:F7:23:9F Connected: yes
Connection successful
[CHG] Device 00:06:66:F7:23:9F ServicesResolved: yes
[TmkBT-239F]# info
Device 00:06:66:F7:23:9F (public)
Name: TmkBT-239F
Alias: TmkBT-239F
Class: 0x000005c0
Paired: yes
Trusted: no
Blocked: no
Connected: yes
LegacyPairing: no
UUID: Human Interface Device... (00001124-0000-1000-8000-00805f9b34fb)
UUID: PnP Information (00001200-0000-1000-8000-00805f9b34fb)
Modalias: bluetooth:v00CDp0066d0100
RSSI: -66
[bluetooth]# trust 00:06:66:F7:23:9F
Anybody meet the question that hasu controller of hhkb does not work under mac mojave? (hhkb pro2) it works well about two days. I try to double shift+p and delete *bluetooth.plist of mac, but it still does not work. and update mojave to latest version is 10.14.3 . all of these don't play a role.
Many thanks for hasu for making my HHKB nicer to use. I have an HHKB Pro 2 type S and HASU BT controller for it.
I have two use cases that work perfectly on their own but cannot work at the same time.
1. Edit the keymap to have my preferred key combinations (spacefn-like in my case)
http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/unimap/?hhkb_rn42
I have to use it using a USB connection.
2. Use Bluetooth
I have to use the default keymap, the custom keymap does not work anymore (connected as Bluetooth device but no key is detected)
Is there any way to use custom keymap while using Bluetooth? Thanks!
Best regards,
Spencer
Hi Hasu,
So basically, I can only use Bluetooth using pre-defined keymap.
When I flash the firmware and reset with a custom keymap, the Bluetooth did not work. Is there any way that I can have a customer keymap without USB connection?
I checked the troubleshooting. I might redo all the steps just to be sure.
[UPDATE]
I just generated custom keymap from scratch and it worked with Bluetooth.
So there was some problem with my initial custom keymap (I started it from others setup).
Spencer
Yes, you can use the keyboard in bluetooth mode safely with power from external power source like USB port, phone charger, power bank or wall wart adapter. If the external power source can supply enough power, internal battery will not discharge. The charger chip on the controller can manage battery charging under the situation like that, it starts 'trikle charging' to keep battery charged after the battery is fully charged.
Just make sure your cellphone charger has enough power output capacity, 200mA or up is needed.
Hi hasu, I am from Canada but will be visiting Yokohama and Tokyo from Mar 27 to Apr 8, can I buy the BT controller for HHKB Pro 2 and the battery when I am there?
woppa,
1. I guess so if you don't want to use cable and can bear with battery life.
2. In general I can't do anything in hardware/software against interference. As far as I know Blutooth module used in this converter is not problematic and doesn't interfere something in particular.
Can you give link to the post you are refering?
Hello,
Just want to make sure I got this right.
Say, on the same Key, if Layer 0 is '1' and layer 1 is 'F1'
in the configurator, I can set something like...
Action_layer_tap_key | 1 | layer 1
to make it a short press into '1'
and long press into 'F1', right?
Hello,
Just want to make sure I got this right.
Say, on the same Key, if Layer 0 is '1' and layer 1 is 'F1'
in the configurator, I can set something like...
Action_layer_tap_key | 1 | layer 1
to make it a short press into '1'
and long press into 'F1', right?
No, that sends '1' by short press and activates Layer1 by long press.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_core/blob/master/doc/keymap.md#224-momentary-switch-with-tap-key
You can't assign two normal keys on same key like that.
Can anyone recommend the largest capacity battery they've managed to get inside the case while still keeping it flush? I've bought 2 now which were supposed to fit but the 2200mah one didn't work at all and the 2500mah one worked but left the case not quite closing properly. Preferably something available within EU, but don't mind ordering from China/etc if needed.
- ebay 2600mAh - http://www.ebay.com/itm/261625368941?afsrc=1&rmvSB=true
Note that you will need to rewire and crimp JST PH connector yourself.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=12047.msg1946831#msg1946831
Anyone else have an issue where their battery won't charge? Polarity was always correct and the battery was charging without fail for some time, and now it is not charging at all. I replaced the battery, just in case that was the issue, but it is not. The controller ran of whatever charge the new battery had, but will no longer charge it.
https://imgur.com/a/ItL9zOx
It was working, and then one day it was not. Nothing changed, always used the USB port directly on my macbook and directly on my PC. Never used a type C port or a portable charger. The batteries were always connected the proper way, and the connector makes it almost impossible to plug in incorrectly. The replacement battery I received worked to power the bluetooth chip, but it could never charge.
I'd honestly just like a refund or a replacement at this point, unless there is a warranty to ship this one out to be looked at for repair. Just kinda sad to be out 85 dollars.
Purchased through 1upkeyboards
No plan on USB-C, HHKB case is not compatible with Type-C unless you are willing to file connector hole.
hi, hasu. I am making that ble version and firstly big thanks for your work on it.
I have a question that how you confirmed the hhkb should work with 5v. Maybe I can get some advice from you.
I used 5v at the beginning. But some day I just wanted to (maybe just want to find something to do) have a try how low the voltage can be when it works. I found that it can work with 3.3v. Then I began to make new version and test with it. Yes, it works fine with both my HHKB Pro2 and JP(both type-s). Pro2 is already daily used for 13 days(without charging).
here is the 6th ver I made. It still keep 5v on it. But if it realy works well with only 3.3v, I may remove the 5v part next version.
BTW, FC660C works with only 3.3v well too.
(Attachment Link)
Super exciting news :D Sorry for the ignorant question but what is the inner USB socket for?
I will post more infomation after it is done.
Inner USB Disk and its power is controlled by keyboard.hi, hasu. I am making that ble version and firstly big thanks for your work on it.
I have a question that how you confirmed the hhkb should work with 5v. Maybe I can get some advice from you.
I used 5v at the beginning. But some day I just wanted to (maybe just want to find something to do) have a try how low the voltage can be when it works. I found that it can work with 3.3v. Then I began to make new version and test with it. Yes, it works fine with both my HHKB Pro2 and JP(both type-s). Pro2 is already daily used for 13 days(without charging).
here is the 6th ver I made. It still keep 5v on it. But if it realy works well with only 3.3v, I may remove the 5v part next version.
BTW, FC660C works with only 3.3v well too.
(Attachment Link)
Super exciting news :D Sorry for the ignorant question but what is the inner USB socket for?
I will post more infomation after it is done.
$ dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase --force
dfu-programmer: no device present.
Hi,
I received my hasu controller a couple of weeks ago for my HHKB2, and it worked perfectly. I flashed it twice, and now it has stopped working. The keyboard does not send events when I use it, and I don't seem to be able to contact it:Code: [Select]$ dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase --force
dfu-programmer: no device present.
I have probably done something wrong, but I have no idea what as it worked the first time. I understand this is a very general error scenario, but do you have any tips on debugging it or resetting the firmware?
Some random facts and observations that might help
* The LED is orange when I plug in the keyboard, so the cable seems to work
* On macOS
* Using USB controller for HHKB Pro2
I've tried pushing the red button and doing the LSHIFT+RSHIFT+Fn+P combination to no avail.
USB Alt controller has no orange LED and it is green which turns on only when capslock is activated.
yours is Bluetooth one, perhaps?
I think you already check first post but you may want to check it again, especially 'TROUBLESHOOT' section.
And refer to this about how to flash with dfu-programmer.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/wiki#dfu-programmer-for-windows-mac-and-linux
Did you try adding 'sudo' to the command?
$ sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase --force
Password:
dfu-programmer: no device present.
Just push red button and then run commands. It should work.
[EDIT] And use proper firmware for your controller.
USB Alt controller has no orange LED and it is green which turns on only when capslock is activated.
yours is Bluetooth one, perhaps?
if (TIMER_DIFF_RAW(TIMER_RAW, last) > 20/(1000000/TIMER_RAW_FREQ)) {
matrix[row] = matrix_prev[row];
}
May I just comment it out? I works with Atmega32u4 but there's no microsecond timer on Nordic and the millsecond one is not enough as figures.Dear Hasu,
I have had my hhkb pro 2 with the hasu controller for about a year. This morning the keys were not working but the green light was on and I was connected via a cable. Bluetooth also would connect, but keys wouldn't work. I tried restarting my computer and resetting my Mac's SMC and pram. Nothing changed. I came back after a few hours and tried again. With the cable nothing worked and I got a notice from my mac saying: "USB Accessories Disabled" Unplug the accessory using to much power to re-enable USB device. Next, I tried plugging the keyboard into a different power source and using bluetooth. The bluetooth didn't work unless it wasn't plugged in. With the keyboard connected to power and bluetooth on I was able to type a little and then random keys started to execute.
The keyboard has been on my desk for months, so I am doubtful it was damaged or spilled on without my knowledge.
I wasn't able to re-flash it, since when it is plugged in the computer didn't recognize it.
Any ideas on what to do next? Could I just need a new battery?
UPDATE: I removed the battery and the keyboard works with bluetooth, but not the cable alone.
Hi,
That error "USB Accessories Disabled: Unplug the accessory using too much power to re-enable USB device." looks really bad symptom. It may happens short circuit or serious fault somewehre.
I'd suspect USB cable or port first, though, the controller itself can be already damaged.
Did you try another cable or USB port?
A) At first, check where it works as USB keyobard.
1. Remove battery and turn off Bluetooth with the slide switch.
2. Plug into port with USB cable.
Does the LED turns green and the keyboard registers keys?
Also try Windows or Linux if you have any.
If not try another cables get from reliable source. There are many many bad cable in the market unfortunately.
Use cable comes with HHKB, it is enough reliable unless it is damaged.
If it doesn't still work, try reflashing default firmware downloaded from Keymap Editor.
B) Check your HHKB is still safe and work with its original controller.
Does the keyboard work well with the genuine contoller and the cable?Dear Hasu,
I have had my hhkb pro 2 with the hasu controller for about a year. This morning the keys were not working but the green light was on and I was connected via a cable. Bluetooth also would connect, but keys wouldn't work. I tried restarting my computer and resetting my Mac's SMC and pram. Nothing changed. I came back after a few hours and tried again. With the cable nothing worked and I got a notice from my mac saying: "USB Accessories Disabled" Unplug the accessory using to much power to re-enable USB device. Next, I tried plugging the keyboard into a different power source and using bluetooth. The bluetooth didn't work unless it wasn't plugged in. With the keyboard connected to power and bluetooth on I was able to type a little and then random keys started to execute.
The keyboard has been on my desk for months, so I am doubtful it was damaged or spilled on without my knowledge.
I wasn't able to re-flash it, since when it is plugged in the computer didn't recognize it.
Any ideas on what to do next? Could I just need a new battery?
UPDATE: I removed the battery and the keyboard works with bluetooth, but not the cable alone.
A)
- LED turns green, I have not tested on PC or Linux yet. I have tried a second mac.
- Mac isn't recognizing that there is a keyboard in the USB port.
- I tried two cables, including original hhkb cable.
- When I run: dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase --force, I get the message "dfu-programmer: no device present." I am assuming that my mac isn't recognizing that the keyboard is there. Is "atmega32u4" the right controller?
B)
The original hhkb genuine controller does work with a cable. And the Hasu controller works with no battery and bluetooth on, but not with the cord by itself and no battery.
I am experiencing something really strange.
I've used my keyboard a lot with the USB controller. All of a sudden, the CMD keys don't work. Any idea what that could be? How to solve it (probably re-flash)?
I am experiencing something really strange.
I've used my keyboard a lot with the USB controller. All of a sudden, the CMD keys don't work. Any idea what that could be? How to solve it (probably re-flash)?
Update: re-flashed the controller, and it seems to work again. However, I'm still curious how it happened, and I would definitely like to avoid it in the future. Especially since I use it as my travel-keyboard. Any ideas? I have been plugging the keyboard into two different computers several times today, but I wouldn't think that should be an issue (I also believe I have done this many times before)?
Hi everyone,
Just to check, is there a way to map the shift output of a key? For example, changing the output of shift+4 from ($) to (£) etc using TMK?
Many thanks,
Any plans for HHKB classic?
Hasu is there any chance for a hhkb alt controller for the new hhkb version?
What are the chances we can potentially reverse engineer the base firmware (now that you can program in windows using their tool) to be able to flash our own firmware? Or where could I go to maybe mess around with?
What are the chances we can potentially reverse engineer the base firmware (now that you can program in windows using their tool) to be able to flash our own firmware? Or where could I go to maybe mess around with?
I have been digging around in the HHKBKeymapTool.exe looking to see if the Classic has been excluded superficially. There is a flag read from JSON file that's actually inside the install folder. (C:\\Program Files\PFU\Happy Hacking Keyboard Keymap Tool\keyboardDataList.json) the parameter is isKeymapChangeable.
I am not brave enough to try setting this to true. But I am following the logic from that point to see if it might not be as simple as changing that flag. I doubt it's so easy. I will keep you updated
edit:Show Image(https://imgur.com/a/J5KYoSi)
setting the flag to true gets you past the "the Keymap can't be modified". I am tempted to see what happens. I am hoping I can just refresh the thing if it bricks. Otherwise I will be needing an alt board either way. hmm.
edit:
it successfully read the state of my dipswitches.
What are the chances we can potentially reverse engineer the base firmware (now that you can program in windows using their tool) to be able to flash our own firmware? Or where could I go to maybe mess around with?
I have been digging around in the HHKBKeymapTool.exe looking to see if the Classic has been excluded superficially. There is a flag read from JSON file that's actually inside the install folder. (C:\\Program Files\PFU\Happy Hacking Keyboard Keymap Tool\keyboardDataList.json) the parameter is isKeymapChangeable.
I am not brave enough to try setting this to true. But I am following the logic from that point to see if it might not be as simple as changing that flag. I doubt it's so easy. I will keep you updated
edit:Show Image(https://imgur.com/a/J5KYoSi)
setting the flag to true gets you past the "the Keymap can't be modified". I am tempted to see what happens. I am hoping I can just refresh the thing if it bricks. Otherwise I will be needing an alt board either way. hmm.
edit:
it successfully read the state of my dipswitches.
Interesting. Nice find.
Did you try remapping keys actually on your board?
I believe you can recover it with simple hardware hack even if it brick your board. You can consult me if needed.
I will try it some later.
What are the chances we can potentially reverse engineer the base firmware (now that you can program in windows using their tool) to be able to flash our own firmware? Or where could I go to maybe mess around with?
I have been digging around in the HHKBKeymapTool.exe looking to see if the Classic has been excluded superficially. There is a flag read from JSON file that's actually inside the install folder. (C:\\Program Files\PFU\Happy Hacking Keyboard Keymap Tool\keyboardDataList.json) the parameter is isKeymapChangeable.
I am not brave enough to try setting this to true. But I am following the logic from that point to see if it might not be as simple as changing that flag. I doubt it's so easy. I will keep you updated
edit:Show Image(https://imgur.com/a/J5KYoSi)
setting the flag to true gets you past the "the Keymap can't be modified". I am tempted to see what happens. I am hoping I can just refresh the thing if it bricks. Otherwise I will be needing an alt board either way. hmm.
edit:
it successfully read the state of my dipswitches.
Interesting. Nice find.
Did you try remapping keys actually on your board?
I believe you can recover it with simple hardware hack even if it brick your board. You can consult me if needed.
I will try it some later.
after putting it on hold for a couple years I managed to get variable-distance actuation working after writing some simple C routines ;D
i've been out of the loop, so for all I know this has already been done and shared by someone
as of right now it uses an external atmel development board to set the "distance" value (as I currently only have the stock controller) with a very simple serial interface to write the wiper position in BU9831 via the 3 "calibration" pads. there seems to be very little risk as of right now as it loads the "default" resistance value from memory every time it is power-cycled, so if anything goes wrong I can just re-plug it in :p
at a glance it could easily be implemented within the controller, assuming there are 3 I/O pins available and assuming the user wants to solder 3 small wires directly from the controller to the main board, there's just a risk of tearing the calibration pads off if not too careful
...
I managed to get variable-distance actuation working after writing some simple C routines ;D
...
at a glance it could easily be implemented within the controller, assuming there are 3 I/O pins available and assuming the user wants to solder 3 small wires directly from the controller to the main board, there's just a risk of tearing the calibration pads off if not too careful
Any news?
Would love to see a new controller for the HHKB Professional Classic.
First of all: Thanks for all the great work, especially to hasu. I have 90% of my keyboards running via TMK.
I've been reading here for a while and it answered all the questions that arised on the way.
Today I got to a point, where I decided to ask you experts for advice(or just a don't do it, it won't work...).
I am writing this on my HHKB professional2 with a Revision N hasu controller(of course!) and I realy love it. It came with the standard controller, not the bluetooth version. But now a RN42 came along and so I think about converting it to the bluetooth version. Most of the components should already be in my box, so that shouldn't be the problem. But my RN42(picture attached) seems to be different, but as far as I know only in terms of firmware, so I wonder, if I could use the UART Interface on the pcb to reprogram the firmware to be the matching one for tmk. Anybody any ideas/help?
make -f Makefile.unimap KEYMAP=you clean
make -f Makefile.unimap KEYMAP=you
make -f Makefile.unimap KEYMAP=you dfu
Hi Hasu, thanks for your help!
Just wonder if I can use the board with HHKB JP, and in that case, is this able to map the keys exactly like HHKB EN layout. For example, when I press shift 2, it will return "@" but not the double quote as in the JP layout.
Hi Hasu, will you have any BLE controllers for Pro 1?No probably.
Hi,
In sort answer, you can't change the behaviour basically from keyboard firmware, the red LED(D9) is controled directly by GPIO5(22) of RN42 module.
But I may be able to change or disable the GPIO5 using module commands. Check datasheet and references.
https://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/bluetooth_cr_UG-v1.0r.pdf
https://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/en/RN42
EDIT:
what the PE6 pin controls is green(yellow) part(D9) of the dual color LED.
D9 is actually red/green dual LED. D10 is not populated on PCB, btw.
You can find schematics here.
https://github.com/tmk/HHKB_controller/blob/master/schematic/HHKB_controller_revG.pdf
Hi, Hasu. Sorry to bother you again. I met a bug of the hook_matrix_change() function. If I randomly press a key which leads to a matrix change, the hook_matrix_change() function would be excuted twiced. Have you ever met this problem when using hook?Hasu, I know where the problem is, maybe you could update the code and fix the bug. https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/6271878a021fcf578b71e2b7e97cd43786efa7dd/tmk_core/common/keyboard.c (https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/6271878a021fcf578b71e2b7e97cd43786efa7dd/tmk_core/common/keyboard.c) Line 137 and 138. In fact, the line 137 corresponds to the function
void action_exec(keyevent_t event)
{
if (!IS_NOEVENT(event)) {
dprint("\n---- action_exec: start -----\n");
dprint("EVENT: "); debug_event(event); dprintln();
hook_matrix_change(event);
}
there is already a hook_matrix _change(event),but in line 138 hook_matrix _change(event) is excuted again. Thank you, Hasu.
I'll buy the Bluetooth controller when it comes in.
Hey Hasu! Is there any plans to do a revision of these with a new controller such as stm32 or RP2040? Would certainly lower the cost and allow for larger internal storage for things like VIAL
Does qmk work on this board?
Hey Hasu
Are you still selling these?
Cheers
Adam
Hey Hasu
Are you still selling these?
Cheers
Adam
they should be