[IC] Wood Filco TKL / Phantom case

[tubby]

This started out as a personal project to replace my chipped Filco case and also to give my Phantom a case, but after several turn of events, a partner who’s helping me with the project and I decided to make the case available for sale should it turn out anything more than decent. And in all honesty, it appears that it might very well be =)
We have yet to get a final piece done as we still need several more tools and materials before we can complete one, but here is our progress thus far.

The case will consist of 3 layers of solid wood + a centre frame CNC’ed from a grade 304 stainless steel plate.
This was the very first trial, made from what google points out to be ‘peronema canescens’ (?)

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2nd prototype was made from teak wood..

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To attain the contrast with the stainless steel I am trying to achieve, the teak wood was dyed to a dark brown and finished with lacquer.

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Final product would be of a different wood, but with similar finish minus the tint/dye, so the natural wood grain will remain visible under the clear coat.

And this is what I really intend the case to be made of….

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Ebony wood.
Mind the studs and rough edges as the wood have not been given any sort of finishing, nor any sanding yet.



Material and production cost could be cut down should I make the bottom part 1/3 of its current size, but cost isn't my primary concern =)


Tested with an unsoldered Phantom kit in ANSI125 layout:

Unfortunately, out of all the Ebony timber I purchased, it turned out only 3 planks are barely wide enough for a TKL case, and that is not a good odds.
Also, process time unexpectedly multiplies significantly because not only is the material significantly harder and denser, the shortage of width in the materials will require additional steps before it can be processed.
Due to the difficulty in obtaining Ebony wood that is sufficiently wide, I am considering to have the Ebony case only available upon request and pricing could be quite steep. Also, no promises on the availability of the wood, I’m afraid.

The other alternative to consider would be Indian Rosewood, but I have no experience on them to know how they would turn out.
However, before I commit to further invest on this project, I’d like to roughly know whether or not anyone would be interested in these wood cases.
The rather bitter fact is, a case made of teak costs roughly around $250-280 price range and I expect it would roughly cost the same for Indian Rosewood.
And that excludes the 1.5mm steel plate.
For use as a Phantom case, the common Phantom/Universal plate circling about is *not* compatible with the case, so plates will have to be purchased separately. The laser-cut stainless steel plate pictured above costs around $30-40 depending on quantity, but I’m not quite pleased with the results and will be trying to source them from a different workshop.
The plate, however, won’t be required if it were to be used as a Filco case and purchases of the case sans plate are more than welcome.

Plate design was referenced from the Phantom files collated by MOZ. Thank you, Moz.
And my sincerest thanks to bpiphany, jdcarpe, WhiteFireDragon for permitting me to use their plate designs.
Tried to get permission from litster but he misunderstood it for something else, will try to reach him again.

I am also considering to sand/bead blast at least the centre stainless steel frame which I have yet to find out the place and cost for doing it.

But... for now, I'm trying to gauge interest on how many would be interested in a $250-280 wood TKL case - tentatively, material would be Indian Rosewood.
(Pricing excludes plate, metal finish, shipping/Paypal fees - shipping will be from Indonesia, preferably by EMS)

More pics:

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I'll be needing another 1-2 weeks to finish the Ebony case, in the meantime, I've tested the teak case to be fully functional as a Filco case.
Here's some photos of it in action as a Filco case.
Was perfect timing to be used as an entry in the recent PimpYourFilco contest. Failed to win a spot though =)
(N.B. Different screws will be used in the final product.)


Its adjustable feet in live action.

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Margin of error for the feet placement is pretty tight. Only 1 out of 4 feet done works as intended but the ones that "failed" still snapped back into place.
It only didn't produce that 'click' when raised, but still serves its purpose well nonetheless =)

Your opinions would be greatly valued and would appreciate it if you could kindly fill in the Fancy Google Form for this IC.
For question #2, here is a quick drawing to give an idea how each base will look like.
The small base will require moderately tall bumpon stickers just so the front section of the case won't be pressing on the table.
The flat base will require the entire keyboard to be at least 2.7cm tall, and will be missing the adjustable feet entirely.

The ANSI"175" in question #3 would refer to this plate. A proposed layout to (hopefully) cover both ANSI125 and ANSI150 layout. The catch is, the circled portion have to be grind off manually.
I will have to test it out first, but theoretically, it seems that it could work.

[bueller]

Probably out of my price range at the moment but if I had the money I'd totally be in, absolutely beautiful work.

[Beca]

Well, that is gorgeous. Really nice keycaps as well, wow.

[LechnerDE]

The ebony case is absolutely beautiful!

Does the steelplate allow switch top removal without desoldering? I'd be interested in an ANSI 1.5 layout.

I prefer my keyboards flat on the table. Is there an option to get a bottom part that is not angled?

[Elrick]

I'm in this if you decide to proceed with it because there is no other case design which even comes close to yours  .

Just make sure that the material you are cutting and fashioning the case from is 100% seasoned wood.  The final top coat has to be a 2-part clear finish because that is the ABSOLUTE hardest clear coat to apply on any wood finish.

If you really are interested in using the best materials in realizing this keyboard then sign me up.

[Heliosphere]

That is incredibly gorgeous! But as a student, this is out of my spending capacity for a case. I'll take one in a few years, maybe.

[Elrick]

But... for now, I'm trying to gauge interest on how many would be interested in a $250-280 wood TKL case - tentatively, material would be Indian Rosewood.
(Pricing excludes plate, metal finish, shipping/Paypal fees - shipping will be from Indonesia, preferably by EMS)

I like the fact you are doing it in Indonesia because I'm located deep south in the city of Perth, Western Australia hence the postal cost should be next to nothing  .

[pasph]

Interested as a Filco case.

[pexon]

Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god. That is STUNNING.

I'm selling my TKL soon, but seeing this makes me want to keep it 

[tubby]

Probably out of my price range at the moment but if I had the money I'd totally be in, absolutely beautiful work.

That is incredibly gorgeous! But as a student, this is out of my spending capacity for a case. I'll take one in a few years, maybe.

If there is sufficient demand, I might be making this (and several other wooden products) for some time, and might even set up a thread in the 'artisan services' subsection.
Should that happen, you guys can contact me anytime when you need one

Well, that is gorgeous. Really nice keycaps as well, wow.

Thank you for the kind words, Beca.

The ebony case is absolutely beautiful!

Does the steelplate allow switch top removal without desoldering? I'd be interested in an ANSI 1.5 layout.

I prefer my keyboards flat on the table. Is there an option to get a bottom part that is not angled?

Yes, the stainless steel plate has the notches to allow switch top removal without disordering.
However, we’ll have to collect enough orders of the same layout to make pricing reasonable. Seeing ANSI150 is a popular one, we could very well make it our default plate layout

The current design is angled at about 5º with its adjustable feet folded in.  About 10º when raised.
Technically it’s very much possible to make the bottom part flat.  Would actually even reduce production time and cost =)
However, if it is ok with you, I’d like to wait for a few more days to see the interests in this. If it ended up to be less than a handful, I can try to arrange to make each order a custom order =)
But your liking for the Ebony case may be a difficult one to please

I'm in this if you decide to proceed with it because there is no other case design which even comes close to yours  .

Just make sure that the material you are cutting and fashioning the case from is 100% seasoned wood.  The final top coat has to be a 2-part clear finish because that is the ABSOLUTE hardest clear coat to apply on any wood finish.

If you really are interested in using the best materials in realizing this keyboard then sign me up.

Thank you for the compliment, Elrick.
Unfortunately, I’m not certain of the moisture content in the wood used for the prototypes and that includes the Ebony wood.
It is, however, in my best interest to get the best materials to get this going, but sadly getting my hands on Ebony wood wasn't easy, moreover one which has already been kiln dried. And kiln drying a small amount of them would not be feasible.
But should Indian Rosewood be the final choice of material, I'll definitely try to get them already seasoned well.

As for the finishing, I could have it coated in polyurethane, which should provide a hardened finish and are quite resistant to scratches.
But I am open to suggestions and will try my best to get it fulfilled =)

Actually, once I get the Ebony case completed, I am planning to offer it to one lucky (or unlucky?) individual at an "introductory" price for review, before producing more of them for sale.
You seem to know how you like your wood, and could make one good candidate, Elrick

I like the fact you are doing it in Indonesia because I'm located deep south in the city of Perth, Western Australia hence the postal cost should be next to nothing  .

Yeah, Indonesia is the very next country above you. And being in Perth makes us even closer

Interested as a Filco case.

Thank you for your interest, pasph

Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god. That is STUNNING.

I'm selling my TKL soon, but seeing this makes me want to keep it 

Keeping a TKL shouldn't take up too much space in your collection, pexon

[Photekq]

That is absolutely stunning. Amazing work.

[Elrick]

Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god. That is STUNNING.

I'm selling my TKL soon, but seeing this makes me want to keep it 

I wrote something stupid hence I have now retracted it.  Sorry Tubby  .

[bueller]

The current design is angled at about 5º with its adjustable feet folded in.  About 10º when raised.
Technically it’s very much possible to make the bottom part flat.  Would actually even reduce production time and cost =)
However, if it is ok with you, I’d like to wait for a few more days to see the interests in this. If it ended up to be less than a handful, I can try to arrange to make each order a custom order =)

Having a flat base sounds like a great option if you ever do a second run, I'd have no problems attaching some feet to the bottom if it reduced the price.

[LechnerDE]

Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god. That is STUNNING.

I'm selling my TKL soon, but seeing this makes me want to keep it 

I wrote something stupid hence I have now retracted it.  Sorry Tubby  .

I think it was a valid concern.

Remember what happened to Takaki's acrylic case GB? Started out very promising as well...

[LechnerDE]

The current design is angled at about 5º with its adjustable feet folded in.  About 10º when raised.
Technically it’s very much possible to make the bottom part flat.  Would actually even reduce production time and cost =)
However, if it is ok with you, I’d like to wait for a few more days to see the interests in this. If it ended up to be less than a handful, I can try to arrange to make each order a custom order =)
But your liking for the Ebony case may be a difficult one to please

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Thanks for your fast reply  :thumb:

Maybe you should go for the flat design since many people want to keep costs as low as possible.

The adjustable feet could be offered as an extra set item.

And concerning the ebony wood ... I just like darker woods in general - it doesn't have to be ebony ;)

[Kakkun]

Cool. I'm planning a steel-wood-steel phantom case right now.

[Elrick]

And concerning the ebony wood ... I just like darker woods in general - it doesn't have to be ebony

Any type of wood really just as long as you could clearly see the texture and swirls of the wood in all it's glory.  Make it like the Jaguar factory use to do with Walnut dashboards in the 1940's.

[tubby]

That is absolutely stunning. Amazing work.

Thank you very much, Photekq. Means a lot coming from you.

I wrote something stupid hence I have now retracted it.  Sorry Tubby  .

Hey, don't be Elrick =)
I read the post before you edit it and I'm totally fine should you left it the way it was =)
And I totally understand your concern, especially after seeing several GBs going wrong with either subpar products, bad mailing boxes, or the OP leaving everything altogether.

I may not be active here at GH, but my enthusiasm for mechanical keyboards have dated quite a while back and have been a GH member for quite sometime too.
I was also one, if not the most active member at a local forum. Webwit should be able to justify that as he dropped by our local forum a few times back when I was still active there =)
I contributed quite a number of reviews there (here's one written in English should anyone need proof of my "résumé") and have held several GBs locally, and one of the largest being 7bit's RD4 (which took an eternity, I might add ). So I may appear to be a newbie here, but I am a long time player =)

And if it helps to ease anyone's concern, if this sale do proceed, my plan is to only take small number of orders initially, perhaps 5 sets max. And I will only collect 50% as downpayment for production to start. That way, not an awful lot of money is entrusted in me.
Once I post photos of the completed cases, I collect the remaining half + any other fees, and have them shipped as early as I possibly can and provide tracking numbers to the buyers.

As for my competence, I'm not even sure myself 
Hence, I'd like someone to purchase the first set (or rather what I would consider prototype #3)... someone reputable here (and meticulous.... meticulous like Ripster-level-meticulous =p), and they be the judge of the quality of the case. Should it need some adjustments, I'd gladly accept all inputs. But should it be a total disappointment, I'll buy back the case and stop making cases =)

Would that be fair enough? If anyone have any better suggestion, I would be more than happy to hear them. Anything at all, and no offense will be taken =)

Having a flat base sounds like a great option if you ever do a second run, I'd have no problems attaching some feet to the bottom if it reduced the price.

Thanks for your fast reply 

Maybe you should go for the flat design since many people want to keep costs as low as possible.

The adjustable feet could be offered as an extra set item.

I'll definitely be putting that into consideration should many prefer them flat and yes pricing will definitely go down (and weight goes up )
It would appear rather tall and bulky though; around 3cm tall all around. Won't match any common wrist rests =)

Another alternative is to actually do make the bottom part 1/3 of the current size. But I predict pricing will drop no more than $30.

And concerning the ebony wood ... I just like darker woods in general - it doesn't have to be ebony

Any type of wood really just as long as you could clearly see the texture and swirls of the wood in all it's glory.  Make it like the Jaguar factory use to do with Walnut dashboards in the 1940's.

Indian Rosewood can be dark, and have quite contrast-y patterns too =) The darkest one may sometimes be quite difficult to distinguish from Ebony, but commonly they have a lighter and redder shade.
I'd have to google the 1940 Jaguar dashboard to get a picture though =)

Cool. I'm planning a steel-wood-steel phantom case right now.

Just the opposite
Can't wait to see your project unfold, Kakkun

[bueller]

Would probably be pricey as hell but Zebrawood would look amazing as well!

[HendyZone]

amazing works my friends

[Elrick]

Would probably be pricey as hell but Zebrawood would look amazing as well!

I think $250+ for an all wooden case with a bit of stainless plate involved is quite good.  I sure don't want him to make a keyboard that puts him out of pocket because for a beginner trying to please the Geekhack crowd here, can be quite 'poisonous' for the builder.

Sure it's nice to get something super cheap but the builder will put a lot of time cutting, shaping and finishing wood which isn't easy as materials go due to it's own peculiarities with every single piece.

I sure love the fact that each and every single keyboard will be different due to using timber so that gets me excited to no end  .

[Cafiend]

Very cool. Interested! I also prefer the darker woods but i'm not picky.

[tubby]

Would probably be pricey as hell but Zebrawood would look amazing as well!

If I'm not misinformed, Zebrawood unfortunately don't grow readily here, so I can't provide that as an option.
This, however, is the wood that appeal most to me =)  My supplier have some of these, but I was told they aren't of high grade, have high moisture content and their size are far from being wide enough for keyboard cases. Would make one beautiful rest if they are of decent grade though =)

amazing works my friends

Thank you for the kind words, om Hendo

I think $250+ for an all wooden case with a bit of stainless plate involved is quite good.  I sure don't want him to make a keyboard that puts him out of pocket because for a beginner trying to please the Geekhack crowd here, can be quite 'poisonous' for the builder.

Sure it's nice to get something super cheap but the builder will put a lot of time cutting, shaping and finishing wood which isn't easy as materials go due to it's own peculiarities with every single piece.

I sure love the fact that each and every single keyboard will be different due to using timber so that gets me excited to no end  .

Thank you for your understanding, Elrick. That really put my heart at ease.
I, however, want to put things straight and clarify that we will be making some profit from this. If this proceeds, it will be a sale instead of a GB.
However, we try to push and give as good a deal as possible to cover our efforts as I have started and been funding this project for the past 7 months.
As it stands, there are a lot of parts, components, and fixtures involved in a set; some of them imported. I even have several funky contraption specially made just to get the adjustable feet where it is =p
We don't want the case to be costing an arm and a leg either, but we decide the current price range is the best we could offer.

And yes every set will be different from the next. And for the record, for a prototype, I naturally picked the lesser attractive Ebony wood from the 3 usable planks I have, so yes, they can be more beautiful than this =)

Very cool. Interested! I also prefer the darker woods but i'm not picky.

Thank you for your interest, Cafiend.
I am hoping to be able to get a good supply of Indian Rosewood which would look similar to one of these.
I hope it's dark enough to pass as a 'darker wood' =)

[pexon]

Make me a 60% and I'm in then lol

For some reason, my collection has been getting smaller (in terms of keyboard size, not quantitiy lol)

[tubby]

Make me a 60% and I'm in then lol

For some reason, my collection has been getting smaller (in terms of keyboard size, not quantitiy lol)

Some of the "unusable" Ebony wood stocks I currently have will turn into a few 60% version someday.
But they will most likely be designed for Poker/PokerII specifically as those are the only 60% boards I own to do the measurements and drawing.... and that plan won't come to realization for at least a few months from now I'm afraid

[pexon]

OK then, put me down for a Poker 2 case in any spare wood going 

[BunnyLake]

OK then, put me down for a Poker 2 case in any spare wood going 

yeah id be down for a 60%

[feizor]

Looks very classy. Awesome prototypes!

[tubby]

OK then, put me down for a Poker 2 case in any spare wood going 

yeah id be down for a 60%

Now look what you've stirred, Pexon 
My initial plan was a TKL case > TKL/60% rests > an Ergodox case > 60% cases > keycaps(?)
Looks like I might need to move 60% up a queue )

Looks very classy. Awesome prototypes!

Thank you, feizor.

[pasph]

I don't want it flat and i prefer a quality that justify the price rather than vice versa

[hwood34]

Maybe one out of pink ivory (though I realize the difficulty of working with it)

[IonutZ]

That really looks amazing, I would totally be in for one if the price wasn't exorbitant.

[pexon]

OK then, put me down for a Poker 2 case in any spare wood going 

yeah id be down for a 60%

Now look what you've stirred, Pexon 
My initial plan was a TKL case > TKL/60% rests > an Ergodox case > 60% cases > keycaps(?)
Looks like I might need to move 60% up a queue )

Looks very classy. Awesome prototypes!

Thank you, feizor.

Hey, supply and demand brother! No but seriously, GIVE ME A 60%!  )

[bahamot]

Excellent work you have there bro!! two thumbs up!!
Anyway .... count me in for 60% (poker compatible) wood-steel case.

[tubby]

I don't want it flat and i prefer a quality that justify the price rather than vice versa

My thoughts exactly. Might as well go the whole nine yards rather than saving some $, especially on something where aesthetic value is the primary concern.
But I’ll let the community cast their votes, and decide prior to the sale on how to best approach it =)

Maybe one out of pink ivory (though I realize the difficulty of working with it)

Looking at their specifications, they are not harder nor denser than Ebony, so they should still be workable =)
Getting a hold of the materials would be a different story though

That really looks amazing, I would totally be in for one if the price wasn't exorbitant.

Thank you. But I'm real sorry about the pricing. There are a lot of processes involved to complete a set, hope you could understand.

Hey, supply and demand brother! No but seriously, GIVE ME A 60%!  )

Okay, okay... 60% have been bumped up a queue )
Still will take months before its turn though.... hope you guys will not be playing around with your GH40 by then )

Excellent work you have there bro!! two thumbs up!!
Anyway .... count me in for 60% (poker compatible) wood-steel case.

Long time no see, om behemot
I'll jot that down...  "another +1 for 60%"
But guys... do please keep in mind this isn't quite the IC for that Pexxooonnnn!!   )

[Elrick]

Just in case if anyone forgot, I still would want a wooden TKL keyboard, because that's the smallest one I can use comfortably  .

[LechnerDE]

Just in case if anyone forgot, I still would want a wooden TKL keyboard, because that's the smallest one I can use comfortably  .

+1

 

[EppyKay]

This case looks gorgeous. Would a bamboo version be be possible? I think that would look great, though I've been told it is a pain to work with.

[tubby]

because that's the smallest one I can use comfortably  .

ditto

Just in case if anyone forgot, I still would want a wooden TKL keyboard, because that's the smallest one I can use comfortably  .

+1

 

Google form is up in the OP.
Would appreciate it if you guys could kindly fill the form so I can correctly tally your interests =)

This case looks gorgeous. Would a bamboo version be be possible? I think that would look great, though I've been told it is a pain to work with.

Thank you.
However, I will have to say bamboo would not be possible, as the current design requires the wood to be of certain hardness and I'm worried bamboo might not be hard enough.
I would like to work with only Ebony and Indian Rosewood for the initial batch to be on the safe side. Sorry about that, EppyKay.

[LechnerDE]

Form filled

Edit:

Just to clarify: The ANSI 1.5 Plate will have a stepped caps lock key placement and this bottom row right?

1.5 - 1 - 1.5 - 7 - 1.5 - 1 -1.5

[Elrick]

Google form is up in the OP.
Would appreciate it if you guys could kindly fill the form so I can correctly tally your interests =)

Have just filled your form, I really like your original sectional viewpoint showing how the keyboard will sit on the desk.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/base%20options.jpg

The top version is the one I like because it's traditional and looks like a typical Korean Custom keyboard.  Maybe if you copy a traditional IBM SSK shell that would appeal to traditional keyboardists that love the overall shape of an SSK but loathe the internals which are old and past it (yes I expect loads of fanboy hate here  ).  Would be nice to have an all MX switch keyboard made from wood in the shape of an SSK  .

You tubby would actually be the FIRST person to ever undertake this if you choose to do it.

[pasph]

There isn't a "yes" choice to the last question

[tubby]

Form filled

Edit:

Just to clarify: The ANSI 1.5 Plate will have a stepped caps lock key placement and this bottom row right?

1.5 - 1 - 1.5 - 7 - 1.5 - 1 -1.5

Much appreciated LechnerDE
I will, again, be using the files from MOZ's thread as a template. Looking at the files, the CapsLock switch hole is elongated so it should fit both regular and stepped CapsLock layout.
The bottom row also appears to be able to fit 1.5-1-1.5-7-1.5-1-1.5 layout but I'll double check with MOZ if he don't mind =)
In the meantime this is how the ANSI150 plate from his thread looks like.

Have just filled your form, I really like your original sectional viewpoint showing how the keyboard will sit on the desk.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/base%20options.jpg

The top version is the one I like because it's traditional and looks like a typical Korean Custom keyboard.  Maybe if you copy a traditional IBM SSK shell that would appeal to traditional keyboardists that love the overall shape of an SSK but loathe the internals which are old and past it (yes I expect loads of fanboy hate here  ).  Would be nice to have an all MX switch keyboard made from wood in the shape of an SSK  .

You tubby would actually be the FIRST person to ever undertake this if you choose to do it.

Thank you, Elrick.
Yes, the original angled design bear more resemblance to a Korean custom while the small feet design would be closer to an acrylic case.
As of now there are 3x as many favoring the original design over the flat base, and still no vote on the small feet =)

Intriguing idea, Elrick But my concept for a wood case aims for the other end of the spectrum which is a contemporary look =)
Not entirely impossible though, cept I will need to invest on an SSK first

Yeah, I notice there seems to be some jinx with wood cases which is a huge shame
But I'm really having my fingers crossed for this to come to realization, and hopefully throwing a stainless steel part in could nullify the jinx

There isn't a "yes" choice to the last question

Just trying to pull somebody's finger ;p

[LechnerDE]

As of now there are 3x as many favoring the original design over the flat base

Hmm, looking at this picture it seems the angled base is simply screwed to the bottom layer of the case.



Am I not seeing something or why can't it be optional for people who prefer a flat case?

[Elrick]

Yeah, I notice there seems to be some jinx with wood cases which is a huge shame
But I'm really having my fingers crossed for this to come to realization, and hopefully throwing a stainless steel part in could nullify the jinx

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YES wood is extremely difficult to stabilize because it's a dead organic material as opposed to plastic, steel or rock which is all lifeless materials.

Your biggest problem will be to stop the casing from flexing when temps rise or fall PLUS if any moisture is absorbed you will have all sorts of problems with fitment and usage.  Maybe that is why there are so few examples of any keyboard cases made from wood  ;) .

Some how you need to seal the wood against external temps and conditions that was why I mentioned 2-part clear epoxy because that stuff is near bullet-proof when it's cured on the surface.  Although it's a b1tch to apply correctly and having heating ovens to help you reach a fast cured state after application, will be expensive.

Just make sure if you are serious about going down the path of misery and pain ask yourself this one question, will it all be worth it?

[strict]

It looks like a lot of the plate designs you're sharing have a common, but somewhat serious, flaw in them. The 2x stabilized keys have a little extra material that prevents you from opening the switch tops. I purchased a Phantom plate awhile back that had the same design flaw - http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=53761.msg1245309#msg1245309

You might want to check with jdcarpe about different plate designs. His drawings were the source I used for my stainless plate group buy and they were absolutely perfect.

Anyways, best of luck with these. If I didn't need to drop a couple hundred bucks on new tires for my car right now I would almost definitely order one!

[LechnerDE]

Thanks for pointing this out strict!

Please take all the time you need tubby to perfect the design. I wouldn't wanna spend hundreds of dollars on a case with flaws...

[tubby]

Hmm, looking at this picture it seems the angled base is simply screwed to the bottom layer of the case.

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Am I not seeing something or why can't it be optional for people who prefer a flat case?

If I understand your statement correctly, you are under the impression that those preferring a flat design could simply get a set without the angled base layer. Would my understanding be correct?
If that is your assumption, sadly that is not the case. A base cover is needed to partially contain the Phantom's teensy controller / Filco cable connector and the cable itself.
So a flat case would require a differently made layer for its base.
In my case design, this base layer is also used for cable routing, so the user have the option of having the cable stick out from either the left/centre/right.
Drawback is, you will need to have the case opened to reroute the cable =)

YES wood is extremely difficult to stabilize because it's a dead organic material as opposed to plastic, steel or rock which is all lifeless materials.

Your biggest problem will be to stop the casing from flexing when temps rise or fall PLUS if any moisture is absorbed you will have all sorts of problems with fitment and usage.  Maybe that is why there are so few examples of any keyboard cases made from wood  ;) .

Some how you need to seal the wood against external temps and conditions that was why I mentioned 2-part clear epoxy because that stuff is near bullet-proof when it's cured on the surface.  Although it's a b1tch to apply correctly and having heating ovens to help you reach a fast cured state after application, will be expensive.

Just make sure if you are serious about going down the path of misery and pain ask yourself this one question, will it all be worth it?

Yes, that is indeed one of the biggest concern when working with wood. But, seemingly, the wood case projects that didn't make it to production doesn't appear to be related to this. Some of the ones I saw just seems to be abandoned without any disclosed reason.

Although I don't think I will be able to fulfill the oven curing step, I can strive to get most parts coated to prevent significant moisture absorption. 
And apart from having the stainless steel mid section for aesthetic reasons, I am also hoping it could help minimize any warping on the wood layers to some extent.
It's not the misery and pain from the effort that I'm worried about, but rather the time. The unfinished Ebony prototype for instance took almost a week, and would require another week to get it finished and dried properly. And that is not counting the steel parts. If at all possible, I am hoping production time won't be required to be stretched even longer
But I've been through a lot to progress thus far, and it was all worth it. Even though I am actually hoping that the worst part has passed :p

It looks like a lot of the plate designs you're sharing have a common, but somewhat serious, flaw in them. The 2x stabilized keys have a little extra material that prevents you from opening the switch tops. I purchased a Phantom plate awhile back that had the same design flaw - http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=53761.msg1245309#msg1245309

You might want to check with jdcarpe about different plate designs. His drawings were the source I used for my stainless plate group buy and they were absolutely perfect.

Anyways, best of luck with these. If I didn't need to drop a couple hundred bucks on new tires for my car right now I would almost definitely order one!

I just tried to remove the long switch keys on mine, and yes the files I used indeed also have that part sticking out too long, preventing switch top removal. Very grateful for the headsup, strict!
It seems the top part needs to be shortened for better clearance, but I will definitely talk to jdcarpe whether this really is all that is required. Thanks again, strict!
Love your sig btw :))

Thanks for pointing this out strict!

Please take all the time you need tubby to perfect the design. I wouldn't wanna spend hundreds of dollars on a case with flaws...

Definitely, LechnerDE! I do not want my case to disappoint anyone either

[strict]

I just tried to remove the long switch keys on mine, and yes the files I used indeed also have that part sticking out too long, preventing switch top removal. Very grateful for the headsup, strict!
It seems the top part needs to be shortened for better clearance, but I will definitely talk to jdcarpe whether this really is all that is required. Thanks again, strict!
Love your sig btw )

I'm just happy I could contribute in some way to your very impressive project! 

[LechnerDE]

Hmm, looking at this picture it seems the angled base is simply screwed to the bottom layer of the case.

Show Image

Am I not seeing something or why can't it be optional for people who prefer a flat case?

If I understand your statement correctly, you are under the impression that those preferring a flat design could simply get a set without the angled base layer. Would my understanding be correct?
If that is your assumption, sadly that is not the case. A base cover is needed to partially contain the Phantom's teensy controller / Filco cable connector and the cable itself.
So a flat case would require a differently made layer for its base.
In my case design, this base layer is also used for cable routing, so the user have the option of having the cable stick out from either the left/centre/right.
Drawback is, you will need to have the case opened to reroute the cable =)

Ah, I see. I guess I could live with the small angle without the feet poped out.

I still hope there is a solution that keeps the costs as low as possible ;)