Did I break my switch?? Filco Majestouch 2

[sammsorensen]

So the stem and top half of my switch broke for my six key.. I bought a new switch and attempted to replace the old, however when prying the old switch off part of the switch broke off and remained lodged into the bottom half. After 30 minutes of digging I was able to  remove the broken piece, but I feel as though I may have compromised the structure of the bottom half of the original switch. Now I am unable to put the new switch on (feels like it won't fit) and I don't want to push down too hard. Is the only way to fix this to solder off the bottom part of the switch??

Here is a picture of the bottom half of the switch:


The broken top half of the old switch:

[Sifo]

You shouldn't have removed it without desoldering, that's why. You can't change switches on this style of plate without desoldering, so you won't be able to replace them as well. You'll have to desolder to remove that bottom half, and just put your new switch in, and re solder it on, then it should work again. But yeah, that old switch is probably garbage now.

Also your thumbnails are broken

[sammsorensen]

Okay, thank you!

[The_Ed]

The crosspoint looks mangled, you'll have to desolder the bottom half of the switch and replace the whole thing. If you live in Minnesota you can just drop it off at Arby's and I'll fix it for ya like I do for the other Minnesotans in the area.

[sammsorensen]

Unfortunately I live in Maryland .. Know of any good guides w/ pictures? Everything I've seen says the pictures urls no longer exist.. :/

I'm gonna go to home depot and buy a solder iron tomorrow, any recommendations on the watts? Looking at a 40 watt at the moment.

[The_Ed]

You don't buy a soldering iron by wattage... I would recommend a minimum of a Weller WESD51. It's only $126.41 on Amazon right now.

[sammsorensen]

Uh, not spending $130 on a soldering iron to fix a single switch on my keyboard.. Any cheaper options?

[The_Ed]

If you only ever use it once, a cheap iron MAY work. The only cheapo iron I ever bought couldn't even melt solder, which is why I have quite a few hundred dollars of soldering equipment now. I recently upgraded my setup for SMD work, which was expensive but well worth it.

You'll also need some rolls of techspray prowick desoldering braid and kester 44 63/37 solder. Those are also expensive, but well worth it.

[sammsorensen]

Okay, thank you!

[bardomudo]

I can solder and desolder perfectly with a $10 solder and $5 solder sucker I bought some time ago. Just saying...

[jdcarpe]

Yeah, Radio Shack 45W desoldering iron with bulb, and a 15W grounded soldering iron have worked for me for many projects. Get some 60/40 rosin core solder in .032 size while you're there. A soldering iron holder/cleaner, some tip tinner/cleaner, and a helping hands with magnifying glass are good to have, as well. Maybe some rosin flux.

[The_Ed]

63/37 for PCB work, NOT 60/40! 60/40 is for splicing wires.

[jdcarpe]

Um, yeah. What he said!

[WhiteFireDragon]

Get some 60/40 rosin core solder in .032 size while you're there.

63/37 should be used for electronics. There are no plastic molten state with 63/37, so less chance of cold joints as it cools. 60/40 will probably work fine, but why get non-eutectic solder when it's only a few cents difference?

[rowdy]

A cheap soldering iron should work find if you are careful, and/or have some reasonable idea of what you are doing.

A good soldering iron will help if you are not sure.

Kinda like the difference between manual and automatic cars.

[The_Ed]

Both manual and automatic cars work, some cheapo irons don't. They are completely different.

At least I'm not the only one who spotted that 60/40 blunder.

[rowdy]

I have a cheap soldering iron (which I've had for years, cost maybe $30), on its second tip (I used to do a bit more soldering a few years ago).  It is still going strong.

[jdcarpe]

Both manual and automatic cars work, some cheapo irons don't. They are completely different.

At least I'm not the only one who spotted that 60/40 blunder.

Sorry for my ignorance. I've always used 60/40, and never had a problem.

From RadioShack.com:

Standard 60/40 formula for electronics work. 0.032” diameter. 8.0 oz. spool.

I will defer to the experts in this case.

[The_Ed]

RadioShack and BestBuy are for the ignorant proletarians. 60/40 is for splicing wires, NOT PCB work. 63/37 is the "standard formula".