Fullsize Custom PCB FIlco Compatible - SaikouType 110 (NKBM-ST110r2)

[[null]]

This is my first PCB design and electronics project, I needed many programmable full-size JIS keyboards with good build quality but could not find one to to fit my need so I decided to make it myself. It fits various Filco and Filco-like cases. (see details) Rev 1 was never released, I started over before manufacturing any prototypes. Rev 2 is nearly identical to 2.1 minus the USB connector. This PCB supports multiple layouts (see details) and was designed to use through-hole components so that it is easier for novices to assemble. The ST110 also supports under-key led indicators on the standard lock keys plus a few additional keys. (see details) The MCU is an Atmel AT90USB1286 in the form of a Teensy++2.0 development module. I may make a surface mount version in the future with components preinstalled if there is enough demand for it. I would like to design a case and switch plate in the future but currently do not have the time, money, or need for that, whenever I build with this PCB I strip a new keyboard to install the board.

Details:

Supported Layouts:
・ JIS
・ JIS thumb-shift (not tested)
・ ISO
・ US-ANSI
・ Split-Space (not tested)

Supported Cases:
・ Filco Majestouch
・ Filco Majestouch 2
・ Filco Majestouch Convertible 2
・ Rosewill RK9000
・ Rosewill RK9000 v2
－ May also support other cases
－ Note that some cases require slight modification, usually removing stand-offs

Hardware Features:
・ Free and open source, designed using free software, GPL v2.0 license
・ Supports Filco Majestouch and Filco clone cases
・ Removable cable when using Majestouch Convertible 2 or Rosewill cases
・ Under-key-cap LED indicators
・ Through-hole design for easy assembly
・ Atmel AVR AT90USB1286 MCU
・ Universal layout
・ Expansion headers for possible future expansion modules
・ Bluetooth expansion module in prototype stage

Firmware Support:
・ TMK Keyboard
・ QMK Firmware
・ null Keyboard - fork of tmk_keyboard (to be deprecated in favor of QMK)

Required Parts List:
・ ~110 Cherry MX or Cherry MX clone switches
・ ~110 1N4148 diodes
・ 3-10 3mm 3v 20mA LEDs
・ 3-10 330 ohm resistors if using 3v 20mA LEDs
・ 2.54mm pitch pins for Teensy (headers optional, most are to tall to fit inside case.)
・ Teensy++ 2.0 or compatible board
・ Molex USB Mini B male and female connectors (optional)
・ Filco or compatible key-caps, case, and switch mount plate

LED locations:
・3x standard indicator LEDs in top-right (I use for animations, layer, and driver status)
・Caps Lock
・Scroll Lock
・Num Lock
・Keypad (-)
・Kana (JIS) Right ALT (ANSI / ISO)
・Left CTRL (same pin as Caps Lock, use one or the other for swap Caps Lock and Left CTL)
・FN
・Super / Win

How to get one?
If you wish to download KiCad files and modify or manufacture PCBs yourself, you may find these files on my website: https://null-src.com/posts/nkbm-st110r2/post.php
These may be for sale directly once I have reached the forum requirements.
 

I appreciate constructive criticism!
As stated before, this is my first and only PCB design, I also have limited electronics knowledge. I am normally a graphic designer so this is my first electronics project, feel free to suggest improvements. In the future I would like to add better input protection and battery charge circuit for bluetooth models. If anyone knows a bluetooth module that supports international keys with out creating a new firmware for it I would love to know, I made a basic RN-42 driver only to realize it does not support extra keys like henkan, muhenkan, ro, etc.

[abrahamstechnology]

Nice, I'm glad you used through-hole.

[abrahamstechnology]

Suggestion, can you add support for PCB-mount switches?

[[null]]

Suggestion, can you add support for PCB-mount switches?

I suppose I could add support for PCB mount switches. It would take re-working most of the trace routes but I am sure I can do it eventually. 

[abrahamstechnology]

One more thing: Does it support Cherry-style stabilizers?

[[null]]

One more thing: Does it support Cherry-style stabilizers?

Correct me if I am wrong, but as far as I know the plate mount Cherry-style stabilizers only need the mounting plate to support them in order to be compatible. Since this revision does not support PCB mount switches, I also did not make any accommodations to support PCB mount Cherry stabilizers.

[abrahamstechnology]

One more thing: Does it support Cherry-style stabilizers?

Correct me if I am wrong, but as far as I know the plate mount Cherry-style stabilizers only need the mounting plate to support them in order to be compatible. Since this revision does not support PCB mount switches, I also did not make any accommodations to support PCB mount Cherry stabilizers.

Yes, that's true.

[abrahamstechnology]

I'd greatly appreciate it if you added accommodations for Cherry screw-in PCB mount stabs, as plate-mount Cherry stabs are ridiculously overpriced. I have plans for a custom keyboard project and was looking forever for a PCB like this, but PCB mount switches and stabs would make this board 100% perfect.

If there is some way to donate I would gladly donate for your time and work for adding those things. Thanks!

[[null]]

I'd greatly appreciate it if you added accommodations for Cherry screw-in PCB mount stabs, as plate-mount Cherry stabs are ridiculously overpriced. I have plans for a custom keyboard project and was looking forever for a PCB like this, but PCB mount switches and stabs would make this board 100% perfect.

If there is some way to donate I would gladly donate for your time and work for adding those things. Thanks!

I am willing to rework the design to support PCB mount stabilizers and switches, I work 70ish hours a week though so I don't have much time to spare to work on projects like this. Because of this I can only work on it in small increments here and there so it may take me awhile.

Should you wish to donate to the project, you can find donation links on the ReadMe.txt page of my website. (click the globe icon on my profile to visit my website) Posting direct links to "self promoting" websites are disallowed in GeekHack TOS. You may also DM me if you wish to go about it that way.

[abrahamstechnology]

Ok, thanks!

[[null]]

UPDATE:
Changed footprints to support PCB mount Cherry MX switches. Next I have to reroute the traces to accommodate the new holes in the design.

[abrahamstechnology]

UPDATE:
Changed footprints to support PCB mount Cherry MX switches. Next I have to reroute the traces to accommodate the new holes in the design.

(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)

Good job!

[[null]]

Today I had a chance to re-route the traces and start adding the PCB mount cherry stabilizer footprints and noticed that it may be impossible to maintain compatibility with Costar/Filco case and plate designs and add cherry stabilizer support. This is due to how close the bottom row of switches is to the bottom case and plate edges, the Cherry stabilizers would extend off the bottom of the PCB and potentially prevent the board from being installed into a already existing case designs. I will need to acquire some Cherry style PCB mount stabilizers to do more testing before I can release a new PCB revision with support for Cherry stabilizers.

[[null]]

Today I had a chance to re-route the traces and start adding the PCB mount cherry stabilizer footprints and noticed that it may be impossible to maintain compatibility with Costar/Filco case and plate designs and add cherry stabilizer support. This is due to how close the bottom row of switches is to the bottom case and plate edges, the Cherry stabilizers would extend off the bottom of the PCB and potentially prevent the board from being installed into a already existing case designs. I will need to acquire some Cherry style PCB mount stabilizers to do more testing before I can release a new PCB revision with support for Cherry stabilizers.

With a little more research, its seems that the orientation of Cherry style stabilizers does not depend on the direction which the switch is mounted like Costar stabilizers are. I will just rotate the Cherry PCB mount stabilizers which are near the edges of the PCB to allow more clearance.

[[null]]

UPDATE:
I have finished adding the footprints for PCB mount Cherry stabilizers and switches and re-worked the layout to accommodate them. I have also decided to integrate a boost converter for the battery input so the board can run longer on 2x AA batteries. This circuit will automatically use the USB power when connected, otherwise the keyboard will be powered by battery. This also helps with KVM switch so the keyboard will not reboot and retains layer state when disconnecting and reconnecting USB. The battery switch on the Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 can be utilized to disable/enable the battery power.  The power circuit may change before the next hardware revision, I am trying to simplify and limit the amount of components as much as possible. The power supply can be bypassed by not populating it and putting a solder blob on the USB power jumper if you want the board to receive power directly from USB. My next step is to order the components and build it up on a bread-board to ensure everything is working before finalizing. After that I need to layout the power supply on the PCB and clean up silkscreen.

[tedfs3]

Very nice design. I want to design one myself but have a ton of learning to do with KiCad and PCB design in general. I really want a true left handed keyboard, numpad on the left and mirrored. You mentioned in your first post the KiCad files were available on your site. Do you have a link and what version of KiCad are you using ? I can only see the gerbers of the [opensource] GH80-3000 in this thread, https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=92962.0. It would be nice to actually see them in KiCad.

[dmytropopov]

Can somebody confirm that this PCB works with Cooler Master QuickFire XT (or other Cooler Master model)?

[[null]]

Very nice design. I want to design one myself but have a ton of learning to do with KiCad and PCB design in general. I really want a true left handed keyboard, numpad on the left and mirrored. You mentioned in your first post the KiCad files were available on your site. Do you have a link and what version of KiCad are you using ? I can only see the gerbers of the [opensource] GH80-3000 in this thread, https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=92962.0. It would be nice to actually see them in KiCad.

I am using KiCad 4.0.5.

You can find more information about this project including the PCB design files and firmware here: https://null-src.com/posts/nkbm-st110r2/post.php This will be updated as I release new hardware and firmware versions. I will also add this link to the original post to make it easier to find.

If you are looking to start your own project I really recommend starting from scratch rather than modifying an existing project. KiCad is not really suited to reworking existing projects. Using other projects for referencing dimensions can be helpful though.

[[null]]

Can somebody confirm that this PCB works with Cooler Master QuickFire XT (or other Cooler Master model)?

If you are able to provide detailed photos and dimensions of the case internals I may be able to give you a better idea of if it will work or not.

[[null]]

After measuring the maximum power consumption of a keyboard with many components at 5v 640mA, I decided to change the boost converter IC to the TI TPS61032 which supports higher maximum output current of 1A at 5v (1.8v input). The keyboard I measured had the following components installed and load applied:

• Teensy ++ 2.0
• 10 LEDs
• RN42 BlueTooth module
• Raspberry Pi Zero W Wi-Fi enable, LED disable, 1Ghz CPU
• Generic 3.5 Inch LED TFT display

I also moved the Schottky diodes to be after the output of the boost circuit to reduce voltage drop going into the boost IC. This should help maintain a decent battery runtime as the voltage cutout of the new boost IC is 1.6-1.8v instead of 700mv. A PNP transistor was added between the battery and boost IC to cut battery power when USB power is connected. The voltage drop over PNP transistor is minimal and should have only marginal impact on battery life compared to Schottky diode. When keyboard is powered by USB, the boost circuit is bypassed and USB input is connected directly to VCC power rail. A large capacitor after the diodes might be added to eliminate any momentary power loss which may occur when switching between USB/battery, so far this has not been necessary during my testing but is a good idea to have anyway. I plan to also produce a small power supply module with this circuit for the people who already have builds with r2.1 boards.

Below is the new power supply schematic which I drew up during my lunch break at work earlier today.

[tedfs3]

Thank you for the updated links and information, I do appreciate it. I'll be following here and on github to learn as much as possible.

[tedfs3]

I was thinking about changing this to USB C but that's looking like it might be a bit of a pain. Kicad lists the 3D model used when looking in the footprint editor but the actual 3D model is nowhere to be found in any of the directories. Plus it looks like the connections available might all be SMD, which could be doable in an oven or with a heat gun. Being able to reach to solder pads with an iron looks to be near impossible unless there is a through hole version I'm just not finding.

[[null]]

I was thinking about changing this to USB C but that's looking like it might be a bit of a pain. Kicad lists the 3D model used when looking in the footprint editor but the actual 3D model is nowhere to be found in any of the directories. Plus it looks like the connections available might all be SMD, which could be doable in an oven or with a heat gun. Being able to reach to solder pads with an iron looks to be near impossible unless there is a through hole version I'm just not finding.

I also thought about using USB C connector but opted against it as the Mini USB B fits existing Filco and Rosewill cases better as these cases were designed for it, plus you can use the original cable which are supplied with these keyboards. THT USB C connectors do exist, GCT and CUI manufacture them. https://gct.co/files/drawings/usb4085.pdf I am fine with making footprints myself so kicad not having the model/library available is not an issue for me. If it really is a desirable thing to have a USB C connector I can have another board revision with a USB C plug but would probably not manufacture it myself in large quantities or keep it in stock. I would only make these boards after receiving 5-10 orders (minimum 5pcs order for PCB manufacturer).

[[null]]

UPDATE:

I have finished the power supply design and have placed an order for 60 test boards, these are currently in the post from China and will take 1-3 weeks to arrive. Below is the new schematic and renders of the power supply test board. Using SMT parts was the only way fit the components necessary into the leftover space on the keyboard PCB. I plan to have pre-assembled boards available for people who do not have the means to install SMT parts themselves. I will post an update once I have received, assembled, and tested the power supply boards.

[tedfs3]

I was thinking about changing this to USB C but that's looking like it might be a bit of a pain. Kicad lists the 3D model used when looking in the footprint editor but the actual 3D model is nowhere to be found in any of the directories. Plus it looks like the connections available might all be SMD, which could be doable in an oven or with a heat gun. Being able to reach to solder pads with an iron looks to be near impossible unless there is a through hole version I'm just not finding.

I also thought about using USB C connector but opted against it as the Mini USB B fits existing Filco and Rosewill cases better as these cases were designed for it, plus you can use the original cable which are supplied with these keyboards. THT USB C connectors do exist, GCT and CUI manufacture them. https://gct.co/files/drawings/usb4085.pdf I am fine with making footprints myself so kicad not having the model/library available is not an issue for me. If it really is a desirable thing to have a USB C connector I can have another board revision with a USB C plug but would probably not manufacture it myself in large quantities or keep it in stock. I would only make these boards after receiving 5-10 orders (minimum 5pcs order for PCB manufacturer).

It's your design and you should do what you want with it. I'm just trying to learn from it. The idea of USB C just comes from the ability to mate the connector in either direction, vs other USB types which only have one mating direction. Just a convenience really but it seems more difficult to implement electronically. GTC does have a hybrid that is through hole and SMD that looks doable, the USB4055.

The layout you have is what I want, just with the numpad on the left side, mirrored as that makes more sense to me for retaining control of the mouse and using the numpad at the same time. I'm not left handed but do work on spreadsheets daily and hate having to let go of the mouse or do the long, left handed cross over just to use the numpad. Long way to go as I'm starting from zero but the thought of designing a left handed keyboard from scratch and getting the PCBs fabricated is a nice goal to have. Having to learn KiCad and Blender, which is updating to 2.8 soon, will be a process but seems doable. Right now I rely on places like SnapEDA or Ultra Librarian for footprints and models, as the skill just isn't there yet. If it were affordable, I'd have someone design the thing and pay them for it. Not the best way to learn but it's still nice to be able to dissect a design you like and learn from.

I do appreciate people like you that share for everyone to learn from.

This is all I want to do but it seems pretty far off right now.

[[null]]

I was thinking about changing this to USB C but that's looking like it might be a bit of a pain. Kicad lists the 3D model used when looking in the footprint editor but the actual 3D model is nowhere to be found in any of the directories. Plus it looks like the connections available might all be SMD, which could be doable in an oven or with a heat gun. Being able to reach to solder pads with an iron looks to be near impossible unless there is a through hole version I'm just not finding.

I also thought about using USB C connector but opted against it as the Mini USB B fits existing Filco and Rosewill cases better as these cases were designed for it, plus you can use the original cable which are supplied with these keyboards. THT USB C connectors do exist, GCT and CUI manufacture them. https://gct.co/files/drawings/usb4085.pdf I am fine with making footprints myself so kicad not having the model/library available is not an issue for me. If it really is a desirable thing to have a USB C connector I can have another board revision with a USB C plug but would probably not manufacture it myself in large quantities or keep it in stock. I would only make these boards after receiving 5-10 orders (minimum 5pcs order for PCB manufacturer).

It's your design and you should do what you want with it. I'm just trying to learn from it. The idea of USB C just comes from the ability to mate the connector in either direction, vs other USB types which only have one mating direction. Just a convenience really but it seems more difficult to implement electronically. GTC does have a hybrid that is through hole and SMD that looks doable, the USB4055.

The layout you have is what I want, just with the numpad on the left side, mirrored as that makes more sense to me for retaining control of the mouse and using the numpad at the same time. I'm not left handed but do work on spreadsheets daily and hate having to let go of the mouse or do the long, left handed cross over just to use the numpad. Long way to go as I'm starting from zero but the thought of designing a left handed keyboard from scratch and getting the PCBs fabricated is a nice goal to have. Having to learn KiCad and Blender, which is updating to 2.8 soon, will be a process but seems doable. Right now I rely on places like SnapEDA or Ultra Librarian for footprints and models, as the skill just isn't there yet. If it were affordable, I'd have someone design the thing and pay them for it. Not the best way to learn but it's still nice to be able to dissect a design you like and learn from.

I do appreciate people like you that share for everyone to learn from.

This is all I want to do but it seems pretty far off right now.

Just a note:

As long as you read the data-sheets for the parts you chose to ensure the dimensions will fit with your design, you do not need 3D models to ensure there are no conflicts especially with something as simple as a keyboard. I usually don't even bother with the 3D models unless they are already included in one of the default libraries.

[tedfs3]

How hard would this be to do in a left handed model ? It looks like I'll need to flip the Teensy over, which I'm not sure will be a problem or not. It would have to be wired differently than yours but I'm not sure if what pins for each part are used really matter. For example, does LED 0 really have to be connected to B7? Then there's figuring out how to make firmware then how to get it on the teensy.

Tons to learn yet

[[null]]

How hard would this be to do in a left handed model ? It looks like I'll need to flip the Teensy over, which I'm not sure will be a problem or not. It would have to be wired differently than yours but I'm not sure if what pins for each part are used really matter. For example, does LED 0 really have to be connected to B7? Then there's figuring out how to make firmware then how to get it on the teensy.

Tons to learn yet

It would not be hard if you start from scratch, trying to re-work an existing design to meet your needs will be very tedious. It will be easiest to just create a schematic to match your desired design and then layout the PCB from there. I have never really done anything like this before and thought it was pretty easy if you take your time and read about basic electronics design, KiCad docs, and datasheets for measurements and footprint sizes etc.  Use a printer to print test layouts from KiCad on paper in 1:1 size to ensure that your measurements are correct before manufacturing a board. You can hand wire things first to ensure your firmware and design works as intended.  For the most part the pins you use does not matter. Some pins can only do specific things that others cant so make sure to reserve them if you need them. Example being SPI or analog pins. (read Teensy++2.0 schematic and Atmel AT90USB1286 datasheet) For the rows and columns you can not mix and match inside each port. For example, every B pin must be either inputs or outputs, you can not have a column on B1 and a row on B2 and so on. GND and VCC pins obviously can only be GND and VCC. You will have to program the firmware to match the pin-out of your design, in my firmware I replaced the QMK LED code completely to add the animations and layer LEDs so you would have to do that on your own as well. 

I would start by buying a Teensy and hardwiring a test circuit, it can even be only a few keys and LEDs, just to understand how things work and to write the firmware. From there you will know what pins you are going to use for your design, it will make creating the schematic and PCB must easer once you have hands on experience with the hardware and software.

[tedfs3]

How hard would this be to do in a left handed model ? It looks like I'll need to flip the Teensy over, which I'm not sure will be a problem or not. It would have to be wired differently than yours but I'm not sure if what pins for each part are used really matter. For example, does LED 0 really have to be connected to B7? Then there's figuring out how to make firmware then how to get it on the teensy.

Tons to learn yet

It would not be hard if you start from scratch, trying to re-work an existing design to meet your needs will be very tedious. It will be easiest to just create a schematic to match your desired design and then layout the PCB from there. I have never really done anything like this before and thought it was pretty easy if you take your time and read about basic electronics design, KiCad docs, and datasheets for measurements and footprint sizes etc.  Use a printer to print test layouts from KiCad on paper in 1:1 size to ensure that your measurements are correct before manufacturing a board. You can hand wire things first to ensure your firmware and design works as intended.  For the most part the pins you use does not matter. Some pins can only do specific things that others cant so make sure to reserve them if you need them. Example being SPI or analog pins. (read Teensy++2.0 schematic and Atmel AT90USB1286 datasheet) For the rows and columns you can not mix and match inside each port. For example, every B pin must be either inputs or outputs, you can not have a column on B1 and a row on B2 and so on. GND and VCC pins obviously can only be GND and VCC. You will have to program the firmware to match the pin-out of your design, in my firmware I replaced the QMK LED code completely to add the animations and layer LEDs so you would have to do that on your own as well. 

I would start by buying a Teensy and hardwiring a test circuit, it can even be only a few keys and LEDs, just to understand how things work and to write the firmware. From there you will know what pins you are going to use for your design, it will make creating the schematic and PCB must easer once you have hands on experience with the hardware and software.

Excellent information, thank you. I'm starting from zero here so have to learn everything. I did send a message using your contact form, you can ignore that or answer here or not at all if you'd prefer.

Still wondering how you got the firmware on the teensy. Did you use Teensy Loader ? I see there is an option to open a Hex file in that program and am hoping that is the correct way.

Trying to wrap my head around the matrix. The easiest way for me to visualize it is to make the schematic look exactly like the key layout. I know an 11x11 matrix will do but that just doesn't make sense yet on how to pick the correct keys to assign to a column. Since I only need two LEDs ( CAPS, NUM ) that should open up more pins to use as columns in my schematic that your design uses for LEDs. Hoping that's the case anyway.

Learning is the fun part, implementation is the hard part.

[equalunique]

I have a Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 (US-ANSI version) with a dead controller. A PCB like this is exactly what it needs to live again!

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

[[null]]

I have a Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 (US-ANSI version) with a dead controller. A PCB like this is exactly what it needs to live again!

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

Its funny you say that because that is one of the reasons I started this project. I had a Majestouch Convertible 2 (JP) with a dead controller. While these are out of stock at the moment, upon the next order I will have a new batch manufactured. RN42 Bluetooth support remains unreleased due to lack of time to complete the RN42 driver code and make it user friendly. I am currently looking for an alternative to the RN42 BT module as it does not support international keys, US-ANSI only.

[equalunique]

I have a Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 (US-ANSI version) with a dead controller. A PCB like this is exactly what it needs to live again!

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

Its funny you say that because that is one of the reasons I started this project. I had a Majestouch Convertible 2 (JP) with a dead controller. While these are out of stock at the moment, upon the next order I will have a new batch manufactured. RN42 Bluetooth support remains unreleased due to lack of time to complete the RN42 driver code and make it user friendly. I am currently looking for an alternative to the RN42 BT module as it does not support international keys, US-ANSI only.

Wow! That would be fantastic!

Speaking of bluetooth, one thing I was hesitant to ask about, since this project appeared to be already complete, was whether or not it could be adapted to use sekigon's nrf52840-based BLE Pro Micro. It's currently only supported by his own QMK fork, but many are hopeful that one day it will be merged with the main QMK project: https://github.com/sekigon-gonnoc/BLE-Micro-Pro



Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

[[null]]

I have a Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 (US-ANSI version) with a dead controller. A PCB like this is exactly what it needs to live again!

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

Its funny you say that because that is one of the reasons I started this project. I had a Majestouch Convertible 2 (JP) with a dead controller. While these are out of stock at the moment, upon the next order I will have a new batch manufactured. RN42 Bluetooth support remains unreleased due to lack of time to complete the RN42 driver code and make it user friendly. I am currently looking for an alternative to the RN42 BT module as it does not support international keys, US-ANSI only.

Wow! That would be fantastic!

Speaking of bluetooth, one thing I was hesitant to ask about, since this project appeared to be already complete, was whether or not it could be adapted to use sekigon's nrf52840-based BLE Pro Micro. It's currently only supported by his own QMK fork, but many are hopeful that one day it will be merged with the main QMK project: https://github.com/sekigon-gonnoc/BLE-Micro-Pro



Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

This looks very promising, I will look more into Sekigon's project and the nrf52840 once I have time to read the data-sheets and FAQs.

[tedfs3]

Just wanted to give a huge shoutout to null for taking the time to post this and make it open source.
I've pretty much copied the design because I have no real idea what I'm doing and needed a point of reference.

Placed an order for some Proto boards tonight to check out the work. We shall see if everything is right.

[admiralvorian]

hell yeah this is awesome. I remember asking someone who was involved with the Phantom PCB for the files a few years ago so i could have my own PCBs made with a different color and they basically told me to go **** myself, "its not that hard just design one yourself" etc.

your rock!

[joric]

Speaking of BLE-Micro-Pro, you can also check out my nRFMicro, runs full QMK as well, both wired and wireless but the nomenclature is a little bit friendlier and it has a Lipo charger onboard https://github.com/joric/nrfmicro/wiki

[ju6ju8Oo]

Speaking of BLE-Micro-Pro, you can also check out my nRFMicro, runs full QMK as well, both wired and wireless but the nomenclature is a little bit friendlier and it has a Lipo charger onboard https://github.com/joric/nrfmicro/wiki

Can I use another power source? Lithium battery isn’t very travel friendly personally
Should I wait for v1.0?

[gipetto]

Is this switch pcb layout the same as ducky zero shine dk2108s? I understand ducky started out cloning filco. I know there's 4 missing switches above the numpad and various extra screw holes in the ducky, but i would do a redesign assuming the dimensions were the same.

[[null]]

Is this switch pcb layout the same as ducky zero shine dk2108s? I understand ducky started out cloning filco. I know there's 4 missing switches above the numpad and various extra screw holes in the ducky, but i would do a redesign assuming the dimensions were the same.

I can not confirm that this PCB would be compatible with the dk2108s case because I do not have access to one. From the tear-down photos I have seen online the case internals and dimensions look the same as other costar keyboards. It is likely to fit with minor modifications, probably just removing the standoffs. The switch plate would need to be cut where the extra keys are in order to make room for the Teensy unless you wanted to relocate the Teensy somewhere else with wires. If you already have a dk2108s I would recommend printing the PCB outline on paper, cut it to size, then line it up with the case and PCB to make sure everything matches up nicely before going any further.

[Goedendag]

Hello, I ordered the same PCB as shown in the picture from the GitHub gerber files. This is the version without the support for PCB-mounted switches yet. I have a Filco Majestouch (1) to use as a donor keyboard, but I have no idea how to install stabilisers on the PCB and I don't know which stabilisers to use.


Here, I assume you are re-using the default Filco mounting plate, but are you also using the default Filco stabilisers?
I am trying to build an ISO layout. Thanks in advance for the help!