GH60 Keyboard Project

[Dwarlorf]

Hi, I hope this is the right topic to ask.

I have a rev C and I've successfully added a Caps Lock led and an ESC led. But there's also the possibility to add an FN led. I can see where I have to solder the resistor (it says so on the PCB) but which key do I solder the led to? I can't figure it out. Not even with Google searches.

I'm nearly positive that it's a split RShift fn.

I think you're right now that I look at it again. I'll chance it.

edit: I'm putting in sip sockets so I suppose it shouldn't be problematic if it is not correct.

[xondat]

Hi, I hope this is the right topic to ask.

I have a rev C and I've successfully added a Caps Lock led and an ESC led. But there's also the possibility to add an FN led. I can see where I have to solder the resistor (it says so on the PCB) but which key do I solder the led to? I can't figure it out. Not even with Google searches.

I'm nearly positive that it's a split RShift fn.

I think you're right now that I look at it again. I'll chance it.

edit: I'm putting in sip sockets so I suppose it shouldn't be problematic if it is not correct.

Tired me was looking around Caps Lock for a FN key )

[Dwarlorf]

Hi, I hope this is the right topic to ask.

I have a rev C and I've successfully added a Caps Lock led and an ESC led. But there's also the possibility to add an FN led. I can see where I have to solder the resistor (it says so on the PCB) but which key do I solder the led to? I can't figure it out. Not even with Google searches.

I'm nearly positive that it's a split RShift fn.

I think you're right now that I look at it again. I'll chance it.

edit: I'm putting in sip sockets so I suppose it shouldn't be problematic if it is not correct.

Tired me was looking around Caps Lock for a FN key )

Ahh well, no problem. I actually tried it out and it worked. But the led I bought was not bright enough. Ill put in another one tomorow. But it works so I'm happy. My kb is almost done now.

[captain]

It's a shame we can't have a clip-on ESC key, and put ~ in it's proper place, then cram in four-way arrow keys under Return, and then cram home, pgup, pgdn, end above the right arrow key for a perfection 60%+magic-clip-on-ESC.  Basically a Race, minus the top row, plus a magic ESC key.  :-)

[jigg4]

Hey guys, I feel kinda stupid, but I can not find any information on how I can provide program this PCB. Could you be so kind and point me into the right direction?

[suicidal_orange]

Hey guys, I feel kinda stupid, but I can not find any information on how I can provide program this PCB. Could you be so kind and point me into the right direction?

It's not well advertised as there are options, the easiest is probably EasyAVR.

There are a couple of minor issues with the included config (right split shift and FN are swapped and a couple of missing LEDs) - if this bothers you put the attached gh60f.py in c:\users\[YOUR USERNAME]\.EasyAVR\Boards then use GH60F instead

Edit: and if you want pretty layouts without extra keys put gh60revc.cfg in c:\users\[YOUR USERNAME]\.EasyAVR\configs and choose one at the bottom.

[robotmaxtron]

Hey guys, I feel kinda stupid, but I can not find any information on how I can provide program this PCB. Could you be so kind and point me into the right direction?

You can also use QMK, which is what I've been using. I've uploaded my keymapping so feel free to use that or the default as a starting point: https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/gh60

[exanile_tabasco]

I saw the GH60 Rev. C up on Techkeys. Do I have to solder anything aside from switches if I use no LEDs (not even on caps)? It looks like the controller is already good to go.

[Tactile]

I saw the GH60 Rev. C up on Techkeys. Do I have to solder anything aside from switches if I use no LEDs (not even on caps)? It looks like the controller is already good to go.

The only soldering required is switches, LEDs, and, if you do use LEDs, you must also add the resistors for them. No LEDs means only the switches need be soldered.

[exanile_tabasco]

I saw the GH60 Rev. C up on Techkeys. Do I have to solder anything aside from switches if I use no LEDs (not even on caps)? It looks like the controller is already good to go.

The only soldering required is switches, LEDs, and, if you do use LEDs, you must also add the resistors for them. No LEDs means only the switches need be soldered.

Thanks for the info. Went ahead and bought one. $35 is a good price for a PCB compared to what the Satan goes for in the UK and what I bought my B.face for, and $9 is mind-bogglingly cheap for international shipping.

Anyone know if I can do a HHKB layout on this? AFAIK should be possible since it's just WKL minus two Ctrls, yes?

[Tactile]

I saw the GH60 Rev. C up on Techkeys. Do I have to solder anything aside from switches if I use no LEDs (not even on caps)? It looks like the controller is already good to go.

The only soldering required is switches, LEDs, and, if you do use LEDs, you must also add the resistors for them. No LEDs means only the switches need be soldered.

Thanks for the info. Went ahead and bought one. $35 is a good price for a PCB compared to what the Satan goes for in the UK and what I bought my B.face for, and $9 is mind-bogglingly cheap for international shipping.

Anyone know if I can do a HHKB layout on this? AFAIK should be possible since it's just WKL minus two Ctrls, yes?

Yes, you'd set it up with a 7U space bar bottom row and just not add the bottom corner switches. I don't know where you'd find a case with a top plate to cover those empty areas, though.

The bottom row would look like this minus the corner switches...

[exanile_tabasco]

I saw the GH60 Rev. C up on Techkeys. Do I have to solder anything aside from switches if I use no LEDs (not even on caps)? It looks like the controller is already good to go.

The only soldering required is switches, LEDs, and, if you do use LEDs, you must also add the resistors for them. No LEDs means only the switches need be soldered.

Thanks for the info. Went ahead and bought one. $35 is a good price for a PCB compared to what the Satan goes for in the UK and what I bought my B.face for, and $9 is mind-bogglingly cheap for international shipping.

Anyone know if I can do a HHKB layout on this? AFAIK should be possible since it's just WKL minus two Ctrls, yes?

Yes, you'd set it up with a 7U space bar bottom row and just not add the bottom corner switches. I don't know where you'd find a case with a top plate to cover those empty areas, though.

The bottom row would look like this minus the corner switches...

(Attachment Link)

Using a Leandren HHKB plate. It does not have cutouts for Ctrl in the lower left and right corners. With a Tex case, the plate becomes flush with the case.

[suicidal_orange]

More

I saw the GH60 Rev. C up on Techkeys. Do I have to solder anything aside from switches if I use no LEDs (not even on caps)? It looks like the controller is already good to go.

The only soldering required is switches, LEDs, and, if you do use LEDs, you must also add the resistors for them. No LEDs means only the switches need be soldered.

Thanks for the info. Went ahead and bought one. $35 is a good price for a PCB compared to what the Satan goes for in the UK and what I bought my B.face for, and $9 is mind-bogglingly cheap for international shipping.

Anyone know if I can do a HHKB layout on this? AFAIK should be possible since it's just WKL minus two Ctrls, yes?

Yes, you'd set it up with a 7U space bar bottom row and just not add the bottom corner switches. I don't know where you'd find a case with a top plate to cover those empty areas, though.

The bottom row would look like this minus the corner switches...

(Attachment Link)

Using a Leandren HHKB plate. It does not have cutouts for Ctrl in the lower left and right corners. With a Tex case, the plate becomes flush with the case.

Perfect, assuming you chose the orange case and plate.  Otherwise just very good )

[jigg4]

You can also use QMK, which is what I've been using. I've uploaded my keymapping so feel free to use that or the default as a starting point: https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/gh60

It's not well advertised as there are options, the easiest is probably EasyAVR.

There are a couple of minor issues with the included config (right split shift and FN are swapped and a couple of missing LEDs) - if this bothers you put the attached file in c:\users\[YOUR USERNAME]\.EasyAVR\Boards then use GH60F instead

Is it possible to create an ISO Layout with AVR? I can only see the ANSI Layout keys.
Also, how can I add keys like "Ö", "Ä" etc.?

[suicidal_orange]

You can also use QMK, which is what I've been using. I've uploaded my keymapping so feel free to use that or the default as a starting point: https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/gh60

It's not well advertised as there are options, the easiest is probably EasyAVR.

There are a couple of minor issues with the included config (right split shift and FN are swapped and a couple of missing LEDs) - if this bothers you put the attached file in c:\users\[YOUR USERNAME]\.EasyAVR\Boards then use GH60F instead

Is it possible to create an ISO Layout with AVR? I can only see the ANSI Layout keys.
Also, how can I add keys like "Ö", "Ä" etc.?

The Enter key as set is the right place for ISO, just ignore the US |\ above as you won't have a switch there.  The ISO key next to enter is visible and set as the standard keycode, as is the split left shift key so if you tell your OS you use a German layout it will type as you expect -  don't be tempted to move Z to the top row as it will have the opposite effect!

If you want to do a non-standard keymap you can select a key in the editor then press a working keyboard to assign that code which is easier when dealing with different labels, all firmwares use the US labels so we ISOers have to work a bit harder

Edit: ISO layout config with instructions added to post with the fixed file.

[jigg4]

You can also use QMK, which is what I've been using. I've uploaded my keymapping so feel free to use that or the default as a starting point: https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/gh60

It's not well advertised as there are options, the easiest is probably EasyAVR.

There are a couple of minor issues with the included config (right split shift and FN are swapped and a couple of missing LEDs) - if this bothers you put the attached file in c:\users\[YOUR USERNAME]\.EasyAVR\Boards then use GH60F instead

Is it possible to create an ISO Layout with AVR? I can only see the ANSI Layout keys.
Also, how can I add keys like "Ö", "Ä" etc.?

The Enter key as set is the right place for ISO, just ignore the US |\ above as you won't have a switch there.  The ISO key next to enter is visible and set as the standard keycode, as is the split left shift key so if you tell your OS you use a German layout it will type as you expect -  don't be tempted to move Z to the top row as it will have the opposite effect!

If you want to do a non-standard keymap you can select a key in the editor then press a working keyboard to assign that code which is easier when dealing with different labels, all firmwares use the US labels so we ISOers have to work a bit harder

Not sure whether I did understand you. Let me sum this up please: When I open AVR, I should be able to just load the default GH60 Layout and use this. The "Ö","Ä" and "Ü" Keys should work just fine, right? I would like to have my Capslock as Fn Key for Layer switching. Not sure which key I should assign in order to achieve this. Or do I just select the proper Mode in the select box while the capslock key is highlighted to achieve it?

[suicidal_orange]

Not sure whether I did understand you. Let me sum this up please: When I open AVR, I should be able to just load the default GH60 Layout and use this. The "Ö","Ä" and "Ü" Keys should work just fine, right? I would like to have my Capslock as Fn Key for Layer switching. Not sure which key I should assign in order to achieve this. Or do I just select the proper Mode in the select box while the capslock key is highlighted to achieve it?

Yes, the default layout will just work as a standard board.

To make an FN you need to select the key then choose SCANCODE_FN in the left dropdown.  Then swap to the FN layer to assign the keys.

If you want to tap FN and swap to the next layer without holding it change the mode to 'toggle' and on the layer set a key to FN to go back to the default layer.

[jigg4]

Okay, this sounds way easier than it looks on first sight. Thank you very much for your input!

There is still one thing I do not understand:
What is the difference between easyavr and QMK and what would you recommend me to use? Are there any known compatibility issues on either of those two?
I would like to create some key combos on my Fn Layer like one key copy/paste. As far as I know this is possible with QMK, I am not sure whether easyavr is also capable to do this.

[suicidal_orange]

They both have different strengths but EasyAVR has a nice GUI while QMK involves editing text files.  You can do more custom things in QMK if you're a coder and it has better LED support, but do you need it?  I use EasyAVR...

The only compatibility issue I know of is that EasyAVR defaults to N key rollover so has problems with some bioses and Macs but this can be changed using the built in config editor.

Copy and past would be a C and V key with 'With mods: Ctrl" ticked so it sends Ctrl+C/V when pressed, there doesn't seem to be a scancode for it so if there is one in QMK and you need it you may have a reason to switch...

[jigg4]

I soldered the switches and plugged the keyboard with the pre flashed firmware. It is normal that  # and <> Switches do not work with the default firmware, right?


EDIT: Not sure why, but my Right Alt key is not working either. It is a special Modifier in German, so mabe it is also a Problem because of the default firmware. I tried to resolder the switch a couple of times, but it is still not working. Any Ideas?

[exanile_tabasco]

Hey guys. Got my rev. C up and running. I used FLIP to install the driver, and EasyAVR to program. Worked like a charm.
Layout is stepped caps, WKL bottom row (1.5-1-1.5-7).

That is, except for two issues:

1. EasyAVR doesn't have a layout under GH60a/b/c that matches mine. It is either ISO with standard bottom row and split backspace and split right shift, or completely standard Poker.

2. I can't reprogram my keyboard. I got the basic functions up and running but

- right Windows is a Fn key (want), but my right Alt is a Fn key too (don't want)
- backspace works as backspace, but cannot get Delete to work as Fn + Backspace. In EasyAVR it displays as split backspace, but I have a normal backspace. Both are set as Delete in Fn layer but it doesn't work (rest of my Fn layer is ok).
- don't have F1-F12 yet

The board simply doesn't take any firmware that I give it anymore. It all successfully flashes in FLIP but nothing changes after unplugging and replugging. I've created new layouts from scratch with both the standard GH60 and Gh60 Poker layouts in EasyAVR, and out comes a good .dat and .hex file which I use to flash, but nothing changes on my board.

Every time I flash I put it into bootloader mode, either by the pink button or using "Boot mode" that I've programmed as Fn + Space (Fn 2) + 7. Using the pink button makes the "disconnecting" sound in Windows, while using the Boot mode function gives a "disconnecting" and "reconnecting" sound.

Any ideas? Any way I can perhaps make a custom layout in EasyAVR to match my WKL setup? Will it even help or is my board just borked?

[Tactile]

Hey guys. Got my rev. C up and running. I used FLIP to install the driver, and EasyAVR to program. Worked like a charm.
Layout is stepped caps, WKL bottom row (1.5-1-1.5-7).

That is, except for two issues:

1. EasyAVR doesn't have a layout under GH60a/b/c that matches mine. It is either ISO with standard bottom row and split backspace and split right shift, or completely standard Poker.

2. I can't reprogram my keyboard. I got the basic functions up and running but

- right Windows is a Fn key (want), but my right Alt is a Fn key too (don't want)
- backspace works as backspace, but cannot get Delete to work as Fn + Backspace. In EasyAVR it displays as split backspace, but I have a normal backspace. Both are set as Delete in Fn layer but it doesn't work (rest of my Fn layer is ok).
- don't have F1-F12 yet

The board simply doesn't take any firmware that I give it anymore. It all successfully flashes in FLIP but nothing changes after unplugging and replugging. I've created new layouts from scratch with both the standard GH60 and Gh60 Poker layouts in EasyAVR, and out comes a good .dat and .hex file which I use to flash, but nothing changes on my board.

Every time I flash I put it into bootloader mode, either by the pink button or using "Boot mode" that I've programmed as Fn + Space (Fn 2) + 7. Using the pink button makes the "disconnecting" sound in Windows, while using the Boot mode function gives a "disconnecting" and "reconnecting" sound.

Any ideas? Any way I can perhaps make a custom layout in EasyAVR to match my WKL setup? Will it even help or is my board just borked?

You might get some answers here but you'll have a better chance in this thread:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.0

[exanile_tabasco]

You might get some answers here but you'll have a better chance in this thread:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.0

God I feel so stupid   ) I had EasyAVR save to a single directory, but FLIP was set up in another directory and so each time I flashed I was just flashing the same incomplete .hex over and over again.

It all works now. Thanks anyways.

[grips]

Hi Guys,

I was looking for a bit of clarity surrounding the caps lock LED. I don't plan to add any LEDs to the board, except for a single LED for caps lock. Would I need to solder in a resistor for this?

Thanks

[samwisekoi]

Hi Guys,

I was looking for a bit of clarity surrounding the caps lock LED. I don't plan to add any LEDs to the board, except for a single LED for caps lock. Would I need to solder in a resistor for this?

Thanks

Yes. Always.

Well, technically you don't, but then the LED will last some small number of milliseconds.

 -Ron | samwisekoi

[Tactile]

Hi Guys,

I was looking for a bit of clarity surrounding the caps lock LED. I don't plan to add any LEDs to the board, except for a single LED for caps lock. Would I need to solder in a resistor for this?

Thanks

If this is a GH60 rev B or C, yes. The resistor positions are well marked but unpopulated. If it's a Satan or some other "GH60", perhaps not. I think they have smd resistors already installed.

[grips]

It is a GH60 rev. C from techkeys. It looks like there are SMDs soldered onto the board. However, I do see the location marked clearly for a resistor for the caps key, so I assume that I will need to solder in a resistor at that location.



Thank you for the responses.

[Tactile]

It is a GH60 rev. C from techkeys. It looks like there are SMDs soldered onto the board. However, I do see the location marked clearly for a resistor for the caps key, so I assume that I will need to solder in a resistor at that location.

(Attachment Link)

Thank you for the responses.

Those smd devices are diodes. There are no resistors installed for the LED positions.

[grips]

It is a GH60 rev. C from techkeys. It looks like there are SMDs soldered onto the board. However, I do see the location marked clearly for a resistor for the caps key, so I assume that I will need to solder in a resistor at that location.

(Attachment Link)

Thank you for the responses.

Those smd devices are diodes. There are no resistors installed for the LED positions.

Understood. Thank you, again, for the clarification.

[disperse]

Working!

Just need to build a case.

My first keyboard build. Only took three years to get it...

[Tactile]

Working!

Just need to build a case.

My first keyboard build. Only took three years to get it...

 

[lnalex]

Working!

Just need to build a case.

My first keyboard build. Only took three years to get it...

Oh dear, 3 years ? Why is it taking so long ?

[JBert]

Oh dear, 3 years ? Why is it taking so long ?

Likely because the parts were stuck in shipping limbo for ages. I only just received my parts after waiting for something like 3 years and 10 months.

[JBert]

Also, for those who want to use Soarer's Controller Firmware rather than having to deal with building TMK, check my thread over at Deskthority:

https://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/soarer-s-keyboard-controller-firmware-for-atmega32u4-designs-gh60-t15958.html

[Glissant]

I'd also like to suggest using EasyAVR for programming your GH60. Super easy GUI with great control.
https://github.com/dhowland/EasyAVR

[freeone]

Does anyone know, wehere can i buy a GH60 board in Europe? I seems that Falbatech has no stock.

[odd]

Anyone know if any progress (or info) has been made on the daughtercard to add the resistors needed to use the LED sockets? Thanks.



extended info:

The GH60 PCB is a favorite of mine to put into builds for new users since it's a super solid board, looks great and is easy to show people EasyAVR to help program it. It would be since to use those sockets.