UPDATE: I have started building my Sprit 75% board. I learned a lot in the first build, so I will do a better build log this time. Check progress at the end of this post...I will try to keep the OP updated with pictures, so I am going to keep it light on text for the most part...
I am working with:
- Panavice with PCB holder and custom rail (from Melvang)
- Hakko FX-888D (with additional tips, so I have a very small chisel which worked fine for the SMDs)
- Kester 44 solder
- Kester flux pen
- Fine point angled tweezers
1st Build - Sprit 60%
Resistors are on! I have to admit, I was pretty intimidated when I first saw the size of the resistors, but it actually was not as hard as I was anticipating. Having the right tools makes a HUGE difference.
Diodes are on!I thought the diodes would be easier to solder on because they were bigger, but being cylindrical makes them kind of annoying. The first side of the diode was actually more difficult than the resistors. The second side was easy. I actually went back and retouched some of the initial solder joints on the first side after the second pad was soldered on.
Switch Mods Finished!This was a pretty long and tedious process, but the result is going to be epic.
![Smiley :)](https://cdn.geekhack.org/Smileys/solosmileys/smiley.gif)
I stickered and lubed all the switches as well as re-springed with 68g Sprit gold springs. I also added SIP sockets to each switch and inserted an LED so the soldering will be easier and the spacing for the LEDs will be perfect once soldered. Tips for this section is do all the switches at one time and do one process at a time. So something like this for all; open, sticker, sip sockets, lube springs, lube stems, close, add leds...
One other thing, that 3V battery is the best LED tester ever!!!
Switches Soldered & Case BuiltThis was actually two sessions, but I did not have a chance to take pictures after soldering. You can basically see the soldering job in the pictures though. My minimal case is now a reality!!! This is the first prototype, so it is not perfect, but I am happy with the result. I am using threaded inserts and male/female brass standoffs. I will cut some silicon and do a setup with that as well, but as a first go, this is what I did. I actually really like being able to flip over the keyboard and see all the guts, its pretty cool... I have not put any feet on it of any kind yet. I will stick some rubber bumpers on it some point soon.
Minimal Case V2Instead of just having brass standoffs between the PCB and the backplate, I got around to doing my original idea of putting a silicone layer between the two without any spacers. In this case I wanted to make it as soft as possible, so instead of a solid silicone sheet, I used closed cell silicone foam. It has a durometer of about 20A, so it is quite soft. I am pretty happy with it. It has a really nice typing feel. I have a crap ton of the solid silicone sheets, so I will have to test that when I have some time.
2nd Build - Sprit 75%
SMD SolderingIt definitely helps that I have done this once. Now I have a much better system for this piece...
1) Put solder on one pad of each of the diodes and resistors.
2) Tack the diodes and resistors in place with the initial solder. When you push the SMD component into the 'puddle', the SMD will resist and deform the solder initially. Once your iron has warmed the SMD enough, the solder will kind of suck up onto the SMD. At this point you can remove the iron and wait a second or two before releasing it with your tweezers.
3) Solder the second side of the diodes and resistors. Touch up any joints you feel need it...
![swill's build log - Sprit PCBs 70203-16](https://geekhack.org/index.php?PHPSESSID=n3ipn3mcc2fcm5fk0mr4vcgejh3pcu1n&action=dlattach;topic=58969.0;attach=70204;image)
Yes, some of my solder joints have too much solder, but I was just rocking through it so I errored on the side of too much...
Switch StickeringNothing too special in this update. This was a relatively short session, so I just put the switches on a universal TKL plate (my version of a lube station) and opened them all up and stickered them.
My only advice when modding switches is do all the switches at the same time for each step. This reduces the amount of time you spend switching between tools and doing unproductive actions. I find this really speeds up the whole process.
![swill's build log - Sprit PCBs 70330-17](https://geekhack.org/index.php?PHPSESSID=n3ipn3mcc2fcm5fk0mr4vcgejh3pcu1n&action=dlattach;topic=58969.0;attach=70331;image)
Since this is going to be my own personal board, I made sure to use these awesome pink stickers.
SIP SocketingInserted all of the sip sockets after I got all the stickers on. I have not had much time recently, so I have been spending about an hour a night getting through what I can, so it has been slow.
My only tip for putting in sip sockets is to use a pointy pair of tweezers and stick one point into the sip socket and then place it. It makes it super easy to control those tiny little pieces...
Switch ModdingHere are the steps I took when putting my switches back together.
1) Dip the top end of the spring in lube (grease/oil mixture) and place in bottom of housing.
2) Lube the sliders and the stem and insert into the spring.
3) Close the switch with the cover.
4) Spread the SIP sockets (wider than you think) with tweezers and then insert the LEDs.
All Soldered UpNothing too special here. All the hard work was done, it was just the soldering everything up in this step.
Rocking a SUPER minimal caseIn this version I simply tapped screw holes in acrylic. Stuck some bumpers on and screwed it on. Since the acrylic is not conductive and the components are all pretty similar in height, I figured I would give this a go. It worked out pretty well. It would probably be a bit better with a really thin layer of silicon, but I wanted to try it to see how minimal I could go. Still feels good though...
The Final FormHere it is with a couple different keysets on it. I have to say that the Penumbra set is still rocking out all my favorite boards. Love this keyset...
75% SummaryThis was the layout I was most excited for. I think this is going to be competing to take the job of my Filco w/ Browns which has been rocking as my daily driver at home for over 2 years. I have been hard pressed to replace that board with something. I think this 75% with 62g clears is going to give it a run for its money. So far, this board is everything I hoped it would be. It is a great size, fully functional and buttery to type on. I will report back when I have a 100 hours or so on it...